Replace your Pentair GLOBRITE pool lights - Detailed walkthrough

[@sethkranz5507]

Really helpful! My wife and I were able to install three of these lights fairly easily after watching your video. Thanks much for making and posting!!

[@RobertLee-oz5xh]

Very helpful in helping me know I am getting my moneys worth using my pool company to do this.

[@nlasorsa]

You saved me a $500 install. All three lights I have failed throughout 4 years.

[@Aaronlegner]

Thank you so much for this video! I just replaced one of my lights and not sure I would have even tried without this video.

[@chrislane6373]

Thanks for posting the video, Greg. You saved me $760!

[@kechen21]

I don't understand why these lights last so short time, and why can't they make it easier to just change the bulbs, instead of we have to change out the whole wiring. Great video! I'm still researching if there are alternative to the Pentair lights.

[@dataylorandson]

the electrical connection has to happen at the junction box far away from the water ... i wondered the same thing

[@robc7019]

Great video. Thanks for posting. I have 3 lights out, I waited until they all burned out so I could replace them all at once. I've read how these lights don't last which is a shame for how expensive they are. The first one burned out almost 2 years ago, the second about 1 year ago and the last on just before Xmas of 2022. I had been searching to see if I could replace them without having to drain the pool to below the light level. I had read posts where people drained their pools to replace their lights and thought that was crazy. Your video answered my question. Thanks!

[@gregmoore1661]

Mine still holding up well after 14 months or so since the replacement. Don’t forget to try the silicone to seal them up and give it 48 hours to cure. So far so good here anyway.

[@ystebadvonschlegel3295]

Yes these lights are total crap - never buy pentair again. We've had multiple lights fail in 4 years and have spent THOUSANDS replacing them. thanks to this video we will replace the two that are currently out by ourselves, but wish there was an aftermarket part instead of the pentair junk. Anyone who happens to see this: DO NOT BUY PENTAIR POOL EQUIPMENT!

[@ace020500]

I have 2 and still waiting the right time to change them…

[@josemoreno3334]

It's like replacing a larger pool light. In this case, I have to find out witch cable it is. My brothers pool has four lights. Thanks for your help. Good video.👍

[@benkraus3]

Convert to the microbrite system with adapters that retrofit into globrite housings. Globrite are trash. Mine lasted 3 years before corroding out.

[@bfavuzza]

Great video man!! Thank you so much. Very very helpful!!

[@1arm_658]

Learn this procedure well! These lights only last 12 months. I've been through three sets in 4 years. Garbage

[@gregmoore1661]

Totally agree but can’t find an alternative. Oh well, hopefully the seal will buy another year or two.

[@andrewvinen7401]

I've inherited a pool that has 3 of these lights and one had gone, the pool is only 2 years old and was surprised but seeing the comment that they only last 12 months is a shock because with taxes they are almost $400 each or do you know where I can get them cheaper? Thank you for this.

[@louisriddle9855]

It's ridiculous, most expensive lights and most detailed and headache of a swap. Wtf.

[@Zendog500]

I built my house September 2018 and have ran these every night from dusk to midnight. The first one went around March 2023 and now 3 more have stopped working. I did not realize they are $489 each (100ft cable needed) they are nice.

[@tonyg3923]

What lights did you get?

[@RayBeil]

Your video was very helpful. Thank you!

[@petermagri4616]

Really really well done video thank you very much you save me a lot of money

[@howellhicks596]

Thank you very much for making this video!

[@jasondimartino]

Excellent video Greg, thank you for sharing. Where did you get the new light from? Is that the same pentair or got a different one. I feel pentair don’t last as they should.

[@ystebadvonschlegel3295]

this is truly an excellent video thank you very much. Any suggestion on knowing what length light to buy ahead of time? Do you just guess the distance from pool to the box?

[@gregmoore1661]

The only way to be sure is to go ahead and pull the old light and attach the fish tape so it's ready to receive the new one. Then measure the length of the cord and add a few feet so you'll have room to work. I "guessed" on one of mine and ended up short so I saved that one for a future replacement. Expensive mistake but I'll need it some day I'm sure.

[@charlesziegler7915]

Very helpful video - thank you !

[@williamsadventures2048]

Love the video. Thanks for posting.

[@FreedomIsntFree2023]

Is there an alternative to these POS Pentair globrites? I hate spending cubic dollars repeatedly on this junk!

[@btyng3678]

Great video. Thanks for posting

[@MegaMaestro1977]

Great walkthrough. Is there a way to just replace the light without re-running all of the cables? Wasnt sure if the two can be separated.

[@gregmoore1661]

Unfortunately, the cable is affixed to the light housing. It's all one unit so they've got you unfortunately. I guess it's because it's all underwater and they need to be sure the whole thing stays sealed ... which it doesn't ;)

[@tombollig612]

Check out the wr smith led mod lights.www.srsmith.com/en-us/products/pool-lighting/mod-lite/

[@kw57rx8dr.9]

Yes there is, we don't use a fish tape we simply pull the old light out of the niche far enough to get out on the deck and cut the old wire since it no longer has any use, attach the new wire from pool side to the old wire and use it to pull the new light wire through. If you need to pull the wire into the conduit due to length, just loop the wires and attach a piece of string to the end before pulling it back through just make sure the sting is long enough too long is no problem, too short is a big problem once you already pulled the wire back, you'd only by putting slight pressure on the string given how far you;d be pulling it back..

[@randallhubbell6055]

You mention Silicone? Could you explain where to apply and why? thanks

[@nunya8605]

Any ideas online where to purchase these seems like a lot of gouging going on out there for a globrite colored led

[@tombollig612]

Hello. Nice video. I'm curious where you found that install tool? I installed wr smith treo LED lights and tightened them hand tight but would like that tool to unloosen or snug up down the road. Thanks

[@gregmoore1661]

It comes in the box with the new light.

[@tombollig612]

Ok. Thanks for the reply.

[@yorkk8172]

Greg, Thanks for the video. I have a question about getting the light out of the "nitch". After I turn to loosen it, it is not coming out. I've used a screwdriver but does not seem to help. I'm afraid to get too ruff with it and break something I shouldn't. Could the silicone have formed a bond that is making this more difficult than it should? I tried loosing another light and was able to get the light out. I'm going to get in the pool (with googles on) to see if that might help me better see where I might apply pressure with the screwdriver. Any thoughts?

[@gregmoore1661]

The plastic around the rim is pretty thick so as long as you're gentle, there's not too much risk in damaging the light. However, if the light is already out (bad) then it shouldn't really matter, right? Just avoid putting pressure on the niche itself so you don't end up with a visible dent, you know.

[@patmcchesney5043]

Could you give some information on the snake you used?

[@gregmoore1661]

The one I bought is linked here, but I'm sure there are others that would also be fine. Seems like I paid a little less than it sells for today. a.co/d/37VOrj5

[@angelasmith3034]

We have 1 light that brunt out after only 2 years, LED. Says should last 10 years. Got a message on my phone that says low voltage. Would that mean the entire light needs replaced? I looked in the box and all the wires look clean and connected. Please advise. I also don't have the option on my phone for the color show, just shows white. option. Thanks!

[@gregmoore1661]

Sounds familiar, but my system does not have the app integrated. If you see water inside the lens of the light, that could be causing the voltage drop and root cause of the light going out. I think the white LED's are a little less expensive than color, but they're still high.

[@sweitz44]

Great video! Quick question. My pair of 4 year old Globrite lights began to both leak over the summer with the lights failing and water behind the lens. I contacted my pool company who came out today to replace them. As they began replacing the first the housing of the light began to just fall apart from the back end in pieces away from the cable. Now all that’s left is the sealed back gasket, gray tabs, and cable underground in the conduit. Any thoughts on how to get the tabs to unlock from the niche with really no housing left to grip to? My pool techs are unsure. Called Pentair and they don’t know either. Thanks again!

[@gregmoore1661]

I really wouldn't know either, but if the niche itself is damaged, you'll need to replace it anyway so perhaps that would be the best route since it would also resolve the internal clutter and/or damage issue. I think you chip out around the front and pull it out, but it might be pretty tough if it's bonded to the pool shell over the length. Will probably take some elbow grease or a pool contractor if you're concerned about the surface finish getting chipped and repaired. IF you can get a long screwdriver or other tools to free up enough space in the niche for the new light, you should be good. I might suggest purchasing the new light and trying that in/out of the niche so you'll know when you've got it clear enough to support the replacement. The niche is just a "socket / sleeve" so you should be able to get pretty tough with whatever remnants of the old light are still stuck in there. Seems like a good long screwdriver and elbow grease would do the trick, but I have no 1st hand experience with this specific issue. Good news is that you should be able to use the wire from the old light as the fisher to pull the new one back through after tying them together. If you try that though, just be sure you have a very strong connection where they join so they don't separate in the conduit. Good luck!

[@sweitz44]

@@gregmoore1661 Greg! Thanks for the quick reply. Talking with a few other companies to see if they have any ideas on how to fix the issue. Not necessarily something I want to take on as I'm worried I'll damage my in-ground fiberglass pool. But again, really appreciate the video and for getting back to me! Hoping they can fix it with busting up my pool deck to get to it.

[@rogeremeadows]

I have a similar issue. When I make the 1/8” counter turn the lens unscrews and the black housing does not turn at all. I have tried tightening the lens and the black housing will not budge. Any thoughts?

[@eddiesilberman8878]

The Pentair Globrites have a manufacturer defect. The New model came out 12/23. Old models had casings that failed and allowed water infiltration.

[@gregmoore1661]

Good to know. I really hope you're right, as Pentair has made a ton of $$ in the interim from people having to replace these at over $300 a pop. There really should be a class action lawsuit but the warranty is like 90 days so I guess we wouldn't have a case.

[@mbbeard]

My pool guy says they’re out of stock; been waiting for 5 months. Greg, not sure if a novice like me can do this but at least but at least I know what is entailed. My pool was finished in 2022. Thanks!

[@michaelbhim7585]

Greg, i have 3 pool lights that i need to replace similar to your pentair; but jandy nicheless. I noticed i have no junction box; it appears with wiring for the 3 lights is leading toward a transformer box to low voltage. Would i do the same process as you did, but to the transformer box instead? thanks in advance

[@gregmoore1661]

Probably so. Just find the conduit and attach the fish tape, start pulling the light out and you’ll know. Maybe tie string to all three so you’ll know which one you’re pulling.

[@nickzane3503]

Hi Greg. I can t wrap my head around how you installed this light in the return fitting so in the pool plumbing side but how you re doing the wiring on the electrical side. Can you please help me understand how you installed this? Thank you in advance.

[@gregmoore1661]

Would like to help, but don't fully understand the question. Have you watched the other video (the first one)? If not, I believe I may have more-fully covered the wiring at the electrical box in that video. There is only one location where the tail of the light assembly gets wired to the electrical box. Other "wiring" you see in the video that is NOT in the location of the black box is simply attaching the pull string (fish tape) to the new or existing light fixture cord so that it can be pulled through the conduit. That is also "wiring" but for the purpose of the physical pulling of the cable through the conduit and not for hooking up to power.

[@mayorb3366]

These types of lights install into 1.5" PVC, which looks like a return, but it is used as conduit for the electric cord. No water flows through it. Connect the electrical the same as the one you removed. Take a "before" picture if you think there may be confusion.

[@thesecretreviewer8242]

I believe that was an air bubble not a water bubble but i could be wrong. TY sir good video

[@gregmoore1661]

Hadn’t thought of it that way, but I suppose you’re right. The only way for you to see an air bubble is to see it inside the water that has intruded, so yes air bubble confirms the water is inside the light which is not where you want it to be.

[@nunya8605]

what should one of these cost? for say 100ft cable?

[@gregmoore1661]

About $375

[@nunya8605]

do you know of somewhere online ?@@gregmoore1661

[@bitabeep8827]

@@gregmoore1661Gregg where can I buy one ? Which site specifically? Great video !!!

[@johnminella1153]

I was told you need to drain the pool below the light before replacing because it’s sealed. Otherwise, water will fill up inside the conduit and could cause issues, especially in the winter when it freezes. Is that correct?

[@gregmoore1661]

We’re in Florida so I’m certainly no expert but my sense is that you’re fine with most below ground pools since subsurface temps insulate the pvc, but not sure. There appeared to be standing water in all of my pipes but maybe they treat these differently when you get further north.

[@cvlcan]

I would think in Northern climate these need to be sealed at the pool wall and the pipe must be dry to prevent freezing in winter. That requires water line below light.

[@jalalgotit]

Hi there, did u get the replacement from local store or online, thanks.

[@gregmoore1661]

Online ... shopped around and settled on www.poolsupplyunlimited.com I believe is the name.

[@graycenhunt486]

Thank you !

[@ajtroglio]

Great walkthrough but hoping someone in the freezing parts of the US can comment on the need to drain down the pool before replacing.

[@gregmoore1661]

Food for thought since no one has replied yet ... the rubber seal that comes with the light is not likely adequate to ensure a watertight seal between the niche and conduit. My sense is that the hydrostatic pressure on that connection from the 2 to 3 feet of water above the light niche would result in at least some seepage into the conduit. This would likely be enough for it to fill the conduit to equilibrium over time. Also, since the elevation of the conduit at the pool equipment location where the lights hook up is quite a bit above the level of your pool water, there would be space for any water in the conduit to expand when and if it ever freezes. That's also a big IF I believe because these conduits run at least 3 feet below grade so you'd have to have some pretty extreme and extended subsurface temps to freeze that far down I think (but then again, I've lived in Florida for the last 40+ years). Thirdly, if you're in a climate where extreme freezing is an issue, wouldn't you also drain the pool seasonally? If so, you could always loosen the lights from the niches and blow out the lines from the pool equipment side as part of that process. Whenever there is water in your pool in a liquid form, the temperature of the water at the niche would equal the water temperature in the conduit behind the niche, therefore ensuring that it is also not frozen. The only localized freezing you might see in that case would be on the equipment end, perhaps slightly below grade and above where there plenty of space for that ice to expand into the void between the water level in your pool and the end of the conduit. My conclusion if I were in your shoes ... proceed with confidence that freeze/thaw should not be an issue. If you live in extreme northern climate, you can always blow out the lines when winterizing or whatever that routine seasonal maintenance looks like for your case but I don't think there's much if any risk to allowing water into the conduit when installing.

[@artstrick]

Awesomeness

[@patrickkellner2760]

Good video, to bad those lights are such bad quality. They start leaking within 2 years and will fail. Really expensive to have to replace them every 2 years or less. I wouldn't buy them. I received replacements which were supposed to be improved quality but still the same bad quality. A big no no for me.

[@gregmoore1661]

Hoping the seal technique will extend the lifespan. Treatments applied late last year still holding so we'll see. It's only been about 9 or 10 months so far.

[@patrickkellner2760]

@@gregmoore1661 I replaced them about 1,5 years ago and sealed them based on another KZbin video. I have 2 installed and one is leaking again. Not sure how much longer the second one will last. For now it seems to still be dry. 2 years ago I could buy them for $ 250.- each. Now they are over $ 400.- each. I live abroad (Aruba) so I also get shipping and import duties added on. Way to expensive. I wish there would be a cheaper alternative that fit's in the same niche.

[@MyHouseOnTheMoon]

Mine literally fell apart. The lens came off, and left me with an LED panel and some loose wires stuck in the hole. I couldn't get it out! Now, I have to hire a pool guy for $300 labor to replace it for me... That's a $900 repair!

[@justinreynolds3935]

Replace them with the jandy hydrocool p series lights. They are better and have the same color scheme as globrites. I have replaced 126 globrites last two years under warranty. They are horrible lights. The jandys fit just fine and are much better. Trust me. Better warranty as well.

[@gregmoore1661]

Will definitely look into that with the next replacement. Hoping Jandy's are not as costly but would try anyhing that fits at this point.

[@gregmoore1661]

Also found these, but have not yet tried. It's supposed to be compatible with glo-brite. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYG0fImsg7djr9Usi=5IiQcpoy5D9J6ALt

[@ryanbrown7754]

The way I do it is directly behind the light cut the cord splice your new cord onto the old cord and then by the equipment just pull the old cord and use that cord to pull the new cord through. No need for a fish tape. That’s an extra step unnecessary

[@gregmoore1661]

Great suggestion. Thanks for sharing.

[@aidiwang6457]

great, may i know ur contact plz. we have upgraded the pool light, u must be interested.

[@aaabbbccc543]

these lights are crap. pentair knows they are faulty

[@joshbickle7830]

Yeah Globrights are definitely crap, especially with how ridiculously expensive they are. Pentair robs people I swear.

[@louisriddle9855]

Should be a class action suit. Garbage

[@michaelgibson3098]

I agree, all 4 of mine went out within 2 years and they had to replace 1 after several months, have you heard of any type of lawsuits brought against them

[@thepurplepear6742]

@@michaelgibson3098 same here. Both lasted less than 1 year and I'm told that it will cost me $1200 to replace! I would hae never installed these had I known that it would cost that much every year.

[@somaliskinnypirate]

​@@michaelgibson3098 there should be a lawsuit. These are obviously designed to fail right after the warranty. There was a lawsuit by Aqua Lighting for patent infringement against Pentair. These lights as well as older styles were mentioned. I cannot find any info other than it appears to have been dismissed by both parties...Pentair being a scoundrel company probably paid them off to stay quiet. AFAIK, there aren't any direct replacements as the housing is proprietary and how the light colors change with their 90's style electronics is also highly proprietary. Nothing that cannot be emulated by a simple 8266 microcontroller, three 3 watt rgb led's, a better (aluminium) housing and some power circuitry to conver the 12v ac. I'm thinking of it...but it would take a fair amount of time and unless I went to China to make it, it would be similarly priced. Then, Pentair would probably find a way to sue your a$$.

[@carlosaceves8186]

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