Replacing Front Air Struts on a Land Rover LR3 - Ep. 5

In episode five I replace the front air struts on our 2006 Land Rover LR3 (the procedure for each side is the same). I also demonstrate how to calibrate the suspension using the GAP IID tool.
Gap Diagnostics IID Tool: www.ebay.com/itm/113759684278...
Amazon Affiliate Links:
QuickJack 7000L: amzn.to/39PjZiY
maXpeedingrods Air Struts: amzn.to/3BqUIGt
Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3FG4C9y
Camera Gear Used:
Canon EOS R: amzn.to/3B4ogsw
Canon RF 15-35 2.8 L: amzn.to/3RWE5rI
Canon M6MKII: amzn.to/3vZPU7Z
Rode Wireless Go Lavaliere Microphone: amzn.to/2GHU237
Views and recommendations expressed are my opinion based on hands on testing, experience, and results.
Video Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
1:58 - Overnight Leak Test
3:55 - Replacing the Front Air Struts
18:00 - Calibrating the Suspension
25:12 - Conclusion
Email: [e-mail]
Send stuff to: Mike King
7582 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Suite 189
Las Vegas, NV 89123
#landrover #lr3 #airsuspension #gapiidtool

[@txtacos817-3]

Ok I found a 2400 lr3 if I watch enough of these I may get the nerve to start working on it

[@wafflesquare]

I hope so!

[@chrishunter6481]

Mike your videography is unparalleled!! You get the shot no one else can. Perfectly lit, angled so I can tell where you are, clearly explained. Thank you, thank you!!

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you for noticing Chris!!!

[@joseloredo2517]

Great Job very well explain...

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, Jose!

[@a.mccomb3296]

I love this. So detail oriented. Thank you for the content. Having a greater understanding going into the job makes a huge difference!

[@wafflesquare]

I’m so glad it was helpful!!! Thank you for your kind comments.

[@notalegalalien3663]

Absolutely!

[@zuhairkredegh2972]

Thanks for the clear instruction and step by step procedure to replace the air bag , it is my current problem front left one,

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome.

[@dlees14]

I just discovered your channel. I have a 2006 LR3 myself I am learning so much.

[@wafflesquare]

That’s great. I hope you find these videos helpful.

[@jerrygreene7139]

Thanks for showing my comment from your previous video and answering my question. I feel famous now and I can cross an item off my bucket list. This was a great video and very informative. I wish I lived near Vegas and that we were close friends. 😀😀 Thanks for the video.

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome, Jerry! I wish I would have thought of including screenshots or prices of the new valve blocks myself so I’m grateful.

[@doug1525]

Can't wait for more

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, Doug.

[@taylorpeterson7015]

first waffle square vid i’ve seen. love this guys and how he does his vids and his personality. really methodical and informative vid

[@wafflesquare]

Taylor thank you so much!

[@erikpechmann879]

these videos are top notch, truly! Any Land Rover owners out there looking for a guide should be watching. Super detailed, helpful, and the camera shots are fantastic. I also like that fact that you point out any differences from comments made on previous videos. We are all here to learn and the fact that you bring this up is truly great. I'm currently working on the front end of my LR3, having an issue with the front end being super slow to raise. I've already replaced the compressor and changed the o-rings in the front and center valve blocks. Need to check struts next. I really like the quick jack you are using. I'll check in your description if you have that product linked. If not, can you or someone please let me know where to purchase this. Subscribed! Please keep the great LR3 content rolling

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, Erik, for your kind words!!

[@pwatom22]

Excellent detailed set of instructions. Thanks very much.

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome.

[@rogerturk6223]

Didn’t see you do up the brass nut and collet,if you don’t the pipe can pop out .

[@omeguchioma8018]

Mike thank you so much for the great job you are doing am also mike a mechanic but lives in Nigeria and i love range rovers a lot particularly this model but am limited with sophisticated tools but manages to navigate my way thank you i learn from you to boost my understanding

[@wafflesquare]

Favorite comment of the day! Thank you, Omegu!!

[@cedr381]

Awesome quality content sir!👍

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you so much!!

[@scrappykriss2728]

Absolutely awesome and super helpful as I am getting a gap tool to use on my RRS

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you so much! I’m glad the video was helpful.

[@rileyjones650]

Excellent work Sir! Really nicely done! Thank you!

[@wafflesquare]

Riley you are very welcome.

[@1023llc]

great video! Now I'm on the look out for a high-mileage LR3!

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, Andy! Good luck.

[@garystuart226]

Hi, many thanks for the very kind words , really pleased it helped , indeed as mentioned to disable the suspension just need to pull the F26 fuse , great the new struts came with the brass Voss connectors as on there own there around $14 bucks , personally I replaced all mine with brass push fits as they were a lot cheaper along with being easier of just pushing them in without messing around trying to get a spanner to tighten the Voss connectors . When I done mine several years ago I did find the ride quality was better . Plus finding out that when the suspension is in off road height and u get bottomed out whilst driving off road the vehicle will give u the option of raising it to extended off road height and then plus extended off road height , awesome lift by the way , happy motoring and u have a wonderful safe trip , many thanks for sharing this video with us , looking forward to the next video , ps , hope it was ok but posted ur video on landyzone and the discovery 3 forum , hopefully will then get some more views

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, Gary! Share away!

[@garystuart226]

@@wafflesquare , many thks, plus didn’t want any of my comments to come across as disrespectful in any way , just what I’ve learnt in the last 6 x years of owning my D3 and nice to always pass it on , found ur videos extremely well put together and very enjoyable to watch, thks again as it must take ages to put these together , hope u have a wonderful trip, ps, now u have the discovery it’s a good excuse to buy more tools, lol

[@wafflesquare]

Amen!

[@hagakureb7142]

OMG Mike, Thank You for this video. I just subscribed and will be looking at your other videos to bring my LR3 back to life. Thank you for showing me the quick jack. Putting in my order now for one.

[@wafflesquare]

You are so welcome! Thank you for your support. I greatly appreciate it.

[@lucidventuresinc]

That TPMS sensor is what I’ll need. Thanks for the info!

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome!

[@Dave-in-France]

Exceptional quality video. Slow, steady explanations with great visuals. Between your videos and LR time vids from Germany I believe I could run a Disco3 or 4 economically. Thank you very much for all the time and effort you put into these videos. Subscribed.

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, Dave! Very much appreciated.

[@DiscoGruffalo]

F26 is the EAS fuse. The brass fittings are called VOSS connectors. Look after them, they sell for about £10each. For the 15mm top nuts, a swivel head ratchet spanner does the job on all 3 nuts. Always do the overnight test at the height at which it sinks overnight. Fully raised often seals the split in the rubber air spring and you learn nothing, this of course depends on where the actual leak is, but its usually up inside that aluminium can where the rubber folds in on itself.

[@SzymonMaliszewski88]

Great Tutorial !

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you so much!!

[@TheWeessa]

Great video. Thanks!

[@wafflesquare]

Vesa you are very welcome!

[@hansvanleersum8309]

Great video,I love the wat you work! Hvl.

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, Hans!

[@MirandaKiseki]

thanks for the video, much appreciated

[@wafflesquare]

Ady you are very welcome.

[@snorris89]

Great video. Good tips on removing and reinstalling the airline in to the strut. For those watching who have a diesel variant (not in North America I know) the third strut nut is not as accessible from the engine bay as it is in the V8. I had to break it and remove it from the wheel arch. I now have to do the same job on my V8 so looking forward to the easier access this time.

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you for sharing!

[@maythe4thbewithyou59]

Its always best to put the new voss connector nut and collet onto the green pipe before you connect it back onto the strut . When the connector is then inserted into the strut and you tighten the voss connector the brass collett tightens its grip on the pipe giving you a proper airtight seal . Also you don't then need the pliers . Voss connectors do not work the same as push fit as you cannot get passed the collet once it is tightened . hope this makes sense and good channel Mike .

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you again!

[@daniellloyd831]

Excellent. Subscribed

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, Daniel.

[@gordonbarclay6106]

Great video good step by step guide, you should also give LR TIME with Vera and Christian a watch, loads of Landrover stuff..

[@wafflesquare]

Love their channel!

[@vernondeklerk2626]

Great video Thx.

[@wafflesquare]

Vernon you are very welcome.

[@florianrav8179]

removing only the F26 fuse does the trick ;)

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you so much!

[@caramrom]

hola Mike, excelente video de apoyo, solo como aportacion adicional he visto algunos tutoriales que el tornillo del buje de la cama no debes ajustarlo con el auto elevado, debes bajarlo y en altura normal ajustarlo al torque necesario asi evitas torsion y esfuerzo en el buje vulcanizado alargando su vida util, saludos.

[@jamesray3920]

The 411 on my lr3 I had transmission rebuilt , it should be done by now I'm a otr truck driver always gone then I can finish installing the upgrades and terrafirma spare tire carrier just not enough time seems like , nice video

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you, James!

[@maythe4thbewithyou59]

The only fuse you need to take out is fuse F26 yellow 20Amp . This stops any articulation of suspension by the vehicle.

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you so much!

[@philmurray8192]

Can confirm F26. I remove it enough that I've sharpie-d the surrounding plastic so it's an easy find each time.

[@blackrocklookout]

Mike, this is a little long but I needed to explain so you could see where I'm coming from. I used your guide and a couple other videos to properly educate myself. One incongruity was oxmanagain saying you feed the VOSS connector and compression ring onto the line first, then seat the fitting into the strut and tighten down. I tried the push-connect method on the rear strut and found it almost impossible (though I realize it is the correct method) so I threaded all connectors on the line first and that definitely worked. That sets the stage for my question. Unlike the rear, there was a huge space deficit on both front sides, mostly due to the heat shields and long strut posts. The welded bracket that holds the strut also is thick enough where I seemed to need a very thin wrench (which I didn't have) to finish snugging up the brass air connector from above the bracket. I felt it was near impossible to tighten the brass VOSS connector below the bracket due to the three posts, so I did it all from above once the posts were tightened down fully. I noticed you didn't include the tightening of the air line in your video and neither did oxmanagain. My main concern is not getting that air line tightened enough to prevent leakage. I would say both are snug, the air line "bulge" is about two quarter widths from the top of the connector, and firmly tugging on the line I cannot remove it. Do I call it good?

[@wafflesquare]

I took great pains to document every step I took and the outcome was everything I had hoped for…leak free air suspension system. I’m not sure what else to say.

[@blackrocklookout]

@@wafflesquare However I worded it, I have to clarify: No judgment here. You did better than great. I guess I just took a bunch of words to ask if you thought I would be good to go on the Voss connections the way I did them. I put everything back together so we'll see.

[@wafflesquare]

@blackrocklookout thankfully, a simple leak test will answer this question. according to the instructions they are meant to be installed the way I demonstrated.

[@ZimaletaMotors]

Nice job, learned allot, I just recently bought a Range Rover and air suspension works but the rear is always sagging after sitting over night

[@wafflesquare]

I’m so glad you found it helpful!

[@sandypalecek5784]

I definitely need a gap plug tool

[@wafflesquare]

Definitely a great OBD reader. The Launch Elite tool I reviewed in this series is really good too. Much more affordable with almost as much capability (it can’t check or change air compressor firmware on the LR3).

[@pabloarris]

Hi, you should check out a German couple (Christian and Vera) on KZbin, their channel is called "LR TIME" they have lots of brilliant tips including which is the only fuse you need to remove on the LR3 and LR4 for the air suspension, it is an excellent channel with a new video every Sunday. I highly recommend it. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos and sharing them.

[@wafflesquare]

I love their channel!!

[@disco3guy]

Those two have a great channel, and some seriously good mechanical skills to boot

[@wafflesquare]

Agreed.

[@Scooopdog]

Yes there are now 5/6 really good you tubers specialists on LR which is great I’m personally tackling jobs on the vehicle I never imagined I’d do. 👍👍🇮🇪greetings from Ireland

[@wafflesquare]

That’s great John!!

[@user-dg4qq3ud2p]

Very good video, I have a 2013 RRS HSE and I'm replacing the Front shocks, added 2.5" lift Bars, Rebuilt 3 calipers and replaced one with a new caliper and complete Brembo pads on the TRW calipers. My questions is on the passenger side front strut and the 3 top bolts holding the strut in place. The 2 front nuts were easy but the last nut was a bugger to remove. Any tricks on installation on the 3rd nut?? Thank, Pete

[@damonearlewine9482]

Once again, GREAT VIDEO! I watched your other videos but specifically commented on the rebuild of the front valve block so thanks for your help and comments. But turns out it's a leak in my driver side air strut. I'm gonna replace it myself with the confidence I gained from your video! My question is: Are the struts from your Amazon link the specific ones you used? I've gotten burned on cheaper Amazon replacement rover parts before.

[@wafflesquare]

Yes the link is for the exact struts I purchased and installed. I chose them because they were inexpensive and had good reviews. If you are worried about quality, I would suggest OEM struts or Arnott brand. They are nearly four times the price, however.

[@damonearlewine9482]

@@wafflesquare If it worked for you that's good enough for me! I've ordered from your link and await the shipping. I'll let you know how the install goes. Thanks again!

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome, Damon. Thank you for supporting the channel!

[@garystuart226]

Before I forget , if u find it difficult to remove the air compressors intake filter from the boot I personally cut the pipe and rejoined it using a 6mm push fit coupling , plus have u checked out ur front diff breather vent plse as these can block up and cause oil leak out from the seal , here’s the part number for u LR019450, it’s tucked down by ur expansion bottle , if u search on the discovery 3 forum for a breather vent ur see some posts , hope that also helps , ps, apologises as I did try and post a link for u but won’t let me

[@wafflesquare]

Great suggestion!! I’ll research the front diff breather vent.

[@user-dg4qq3ud2p]

Hello, I am hoping some one can let me know what I missed on my 2013 RRS. After Completing a brake job including rebuilt calipers and bleeding the system, added 2.5" Johnson Lift rods, and replaced the Front Struts/Shocks. In the process of about 2 weeks sitting on my lift I finally had everything finished and was ready to restart the systems. I used my TOPDON ArtiDiag 800BT to evacuate the air in the tank and struts prior to removing airlines, and when I tried to reset the Suspension Level Calibration process which re-pressurizes the tank and struts and establishes where the vehicle is siting relative to established heights, couldn't finish because the vehicle wouldn't start. I ran a diagnostics looking for any DTCs or other systems problems and everything was good, other than the systems that required power and air pressure. Okay, long story short I need the engine started in order to start this process and the battery was dead. I recharged the battery and getting 13.6 volts and nothing. I disconnected the battery hoping to reset the system and nothing. The last time I tried to start it the dash indicators lights come on and look ready to start, nothing... I'm not sure why it wont start, am I missing something?? Thanks for any pointers Pete

[@BigTravGill]

Im about to switch mine to coils...NON stop problems with the air suspension

[@wafflesquare]

Sacrilege!

[@franklinroberson3298]

Awesome Videos ! Any chance you could post a LR3 Valve Cover Gasket replacement with the ford engine? Or is this to Intensive of a job for your everyday back yard mechanic?

[@wafflesquare]

I only have access to the V8 Petrol Engine which, thankfully, doesn’t need a valve cover gasket replacement.

[@jamesray3920]

You have done many of the same repairs and upgrades as me, my transmission rebuilt is done but my drive line with center hanger bearing was worn out so you may want to inspect your its a known failure on the land rover , there a repair kit on the center hanger bearing on KZbin showing how to do the repair the shop just bought a used one

[@wafflesquare]

Great tip! Thank you, James.

[@teds1257]

Any issues come up with the maXpeedingrods struts to date? Just ordered one. Did you torque down the brass air fitting before inserting the line? Or insert the line, then torque? Can't wrap my head around how that's a "quick connect" fitting, seems like it would function more like a compression union. Thanks in advance...

[@wafflesquare]

No issues thus far. The entire air suspension system is working great.

[@mateostyle]

Do you have to remove the heat shield or can you get the back nut with a flex head?

[@wafflesquare]

I needed to remove the shielding first but let us know if you are able to get around it.

[@machinedred]

I can't find the link for the worx small electric screwdriver thing you had during the o ring seals change

[@wafflesquare]

Here you go: amzn.to/3HbEXFd I don’t recommend it however because it is hard to hold onto and routinely spins in your hand as the screw gets tight. The Dewalt is far superior.

[@KyleThiessen23]

Curious to see if you get any lean codes after servicing the MAF (once you get driving around). I cannot for the life of me get rid of my “bank 2 lean” code on my ‘08. Great vids, enjoying following along!

[@wafflesquare]

Kyle I will let you know!

[@hectormacias4695]

Anytime you do any work on intake or maf you need to reset the learned codes on the pcm. Just clearing the fault codes isn't enough.

[@anestistsitenidis9906]

It is very dangerous to damage your beautiful car when you cut with your angle grinder near it. Good video.

[@pitchman1974]

How do I know if I need the springs with cvd continuous variable damping ? 😊 2012 range rover l322

[@wafflesquare]

I have no idea what you are asking.

[@loves2adv561]

How have the struts held up? I have an 08 I want to convert back to air suspension but I'm deathly afraid to buy aftermarket struts

[@wafflesquare]

Totally valid concern. I’ve had no issues with the struts.

[@loves2adv561]

Awesome, that's for the response. Great video, I appreciate the help 👍

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome.

[@edwardfern4359]

Just purchased a 05 lr3. Been working on it so my son and I can hit the trails. Your vids have been extremely helpful! Going to be changing the 2 front air struts and adding lift rods. Can I calibrate with the Johnson rods installed or should I calibrate then install the rods? Thanks again!

[@wafflesquare]

Not sure what you are asking but if you are installing extensions to your ride height sensors, I would calibrate afterwards.

[@DiscoGruffalo]

If you must use rods ( hint: don't), calibrate before you fit them. The GAP IID tool will give you a selectable 4 inch lift which switches with just a few pushes on the GAP interface. and it is infinitely variable and has 3 user programmable memories. The IID may be expensive, but it worth the money for the suspension control alone.

[@reservoirdog1099]

Great video. About to start the job replacing my front two. I have a question. I live up the road north about two hours but I work out of vegas. Any chance you want to rent out your gap tool for ten minutes to calibrate the height. I don’t want to drop $560

[@wafflesquare]

Absolutely. The GAP tool is VIN specific but we can use the Launch Elite OBD reader I reviewed in episode 17.

[@michelbonnet3787]

It seems to me that you should set the suspension to "tight tolerance" before calibration and back to normal tolerance after ?

[@wafflesquare]

I am unaware of the tight and normal tolerance settings, or where to find them.

[@notalegalalien3663]

Just subscribed, by the way ...what's EAS ?

[@jeff7607]

Great informative video. Thanks for sharing. I have a similar GAP tool that I purchased from British Atlantic RR for my '11 RRS supercharged. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find the standard height recommendation for mine. Does the type of GAP you have contained other models, or did you have to purchase the software for a particular model? Thanks again for the video.

[@wafflesquare]

It came with a full-use license for one vehicle.

[@wafflesquare]

www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/

[@jeff7607]

@@wafflesquare Awesome thanks again 👍

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome, Jeff.

[@maythe4thbewithyou59]

The Gap tool comes with all the software for all Land rover and / Range rover + Jaguar vehicles on-board so you can do diagnostics on all these vehicles straight off , But it is only initially registered for your vehicle . If you need to do any updates or callibrstion of any sort on another Land / Range rover etc... then you can have that vehicle added to the tool for a small fee in each instance via Gaps website .

[@JesseKinyua07]

Hi Mike, thanks a tonne mate! quick question which OBDE 2 do u recommend for LR3?

[@wafflesquare]

GAP ID tool has worked great for me. eBay link is in the description of every video where I use it.

[@JesseKinyua07]

@@wafflesquare thank you Sir much appreciated

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome!

[@iritantNL]

Could you replace those air fittings with standard Festo 4mm pressing fittings on the whole car?

[@wafflesquare]

I don’t know.

[@omardelpino1606]

Hi!! You are very good!! I have a 2014 Land Rover LR4 HSE and am looking for the transfer case control module location. I have code U0102-00 And C1A13-64 I am trying to locate the module to see if have some corrosion, Thank!

[@Touchkustomcycles]

I folks i want to buy that. Tool who calibrate the suspension .do have a link please for that tool Thank

[@wafflesquare]

The GAP IID tool link is in the description of every video I use it in.

[@DonJ-lm4qw]

What do you need to update the firmware on the air compressor. Put in a different compressor (amk) instead of Hitachi 5:10

[@wafflesquare]

Please watch episode four where I explain that… Land Rover LR3 Air Suspension Diagnosis - Ep. 4 kzbin.info/www/bejne/sF6rnZJvbMZ-bqc

[@paulraduti9730]

Is it necessary to remove the brass fitting and then put it back to remove the shipping plug like you did at 12:54; or can you leave the brass fitting in place the way it arrived on the strut and just remove the shipping plug directly (without having to unscrew the brass fitting)?

[@wafflesquare]

No you can just remove the shipping plug.

[@paulraduti9730]

@@wafflesquare And to put in the air line in the strut brass fitting when installing the strut, you just push the air line in until it's seated?

[@wafflesquare]

Yes. In the video I show how far down to seat the air line.

[@rolandramos8325]

Where can i get the gap id tool? Do i have to download it to a ipad or it auto connect thru bluetooth. Is it available in canada?

[@wafflesquare]

The link for the GAP ID tool is in the description of every video I’ve used it in. You must use some mobile device with their app.

[@darrenscott1111]

I think it's made in Quebec

[@wafflesquare]

Good to know!

[@ryanorr5755]

hi waffle, I have a quick question about the LR3 if you don't mind. Does the 05 and 06 model have a different trans than 07-09? trying to figure out which one is the best to buy. thanks

[@wafflesquare]

In my transmission service video I demonstrate how to identify the exact model number: Land Rover LR3 Complete Transmission Service 6HP26 - Ep. 3 kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6i9q5Z7YrGqiMU

[@ryanorr5755]

@@wafflesquare thank you sir.

[@wafflesquare]

You are very welcome.

[@DiscoGruffalo]

All the automatic gearboxes on all L319 LR3 and Disco 3 04 -09 are basically the same 6HP26. The Disco 4 also had a 6 speed ZF until MY2012 when it got an 8 speed, but while a D4 6 speed will fit in a D3, it won't work in a D3, and vice versa as it speaks a different electronic language.

[@ryanorr5755]

@@DiscoGruffalo thanks for clearing that up.

[@user-mq2hh7yt3t]

I found a video of the air intake filter of the compressor here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6aaool9mdJld68

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you for sharing Charles! I really like this video as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXyXlKuln7-Ljas

[@mateostyle]

How long should it take per side? Tnx

[@wafflesquare]

“Should” is very subjective but it took me about an hour per side.

[@mateostyle]

@@wafflesquare I was thinking that but you never know on this side of things. The dealership was quoting 6 hrs of labor (and $3600) so I thought I was missing something!

[@wafflesquare]

Wow I would definitely do it myself.

[@mateostyle]

Appreciate the video and the time invested to put it on YT.

[@larryroberson6518]

I don’t have a subscrib button

[@wafflesquare]

That’s strange. For me it’s an oval shaped button directly under the running video that literally reads “Subscribe”.

[@iamgermane]

These vehicles sound like POS' sorry to say. I have a 2001 Pathfinder that does not have hardly any problems except rust!

[@csabycanam6589]

u are not mekaniek but u are beter mekaniek dan 80 procent from delarshiep

[@wafflesquare]

That is very kind of you to say, and very sad if true!

[@Scooopdog]

Super loved the detail to precision I wonder does the iCarsoft have the same function , keep up the good work. 🦾🦾🦾🦾

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you John.

[@scrappykriss2728]

I have the icarsoft and unfortunately it does not have as many of the functions of the gap tool - the gap tool is the only one apart from the super Dooper(££££££) dealer tool that has the calibration facility and the ability to programme new keys to the car .

[@wafflesquare]

Thank you for sharing the icarsoft capabilities!

[@Scooopdog]

Yes I did look into the icarsoft function for this dilemma and it’s not able to do it. In Fairness I done my wishbone a few weeks back (tricky), I did get to use it to deflate the system but now I have an imbalance 🙏30 mm out on one side.