Revolver Cylinder Fouling And Leading Removal Solutions And Benefits

You've heard some say (even Elmer Keith) that they don't get leading, but what they really mean is that the leading they get is easily removed. That's because all guns foul and all cast lead bullets leave some leading. Even the best obturation systems that prevent leading still get some leading until the bullet actually obturates.

[@karlt8233]

Back in the 80's one of my duties was working in the armory, best duty I had because it also came with range duty. Our base police force was still using .38sp revolvers and they had to qualify twice a year with them. After quals were done the weapons were returned to the armory for a complete cleaning. Using a drill made cylinder cleaning sooo much easier, especially when cleaning 20+ revolvers!! FYI.. this if for the cylinder only, never ever use a spinning brush inside the rifled barrel.

[@fee_lo8346]

You just saved me so much time. Thank you so much. Seriously. Cleaning cylinders was such a pain... until now.

[@jamesp739]

I use the same method cleaning my shotgun barrels. I take an old copper/bronze bore brush, put a wrap of 0000 steel wool on it, a couple of drops of solvent, chuck the rod in the drill and go to town. Three or four passes down the bore is all it takes. A final pass with a clean patch and the bore shines like a mirror. Never thought about using the same method on cylinders. Thanks, I'll give it a try!

[@toycollector2611]

If you shoot a lot of 38 special and then a 357 magnum, the case gets stuck in the cylinder. Don't ask me how I know...

[@archersfriend]

I have been using a drill to clean cylinders way before the Cordless ones were invented. Glad to see someone promoting working smart instead of harder.

[@williamgaines9784]

I have used a drill powered brush followed by a swab with standard toothpaste(not gel) for cleaning my 357 and 22 cylinders after having shot a lot of special/short ammo since the 1980s. Non drill toothpaste swab also gets copper fouling out of barrels without the horrid smell of ammonia solvents. Great channel!

[@greggwoods7173]

Man I feel like a dummy.. Never thought of using the drill this way.. Good call! Thanks!

[@thewalker4614]

You are the reason I got interested in reloading. Thank you for the inspiration!

[@jeffw1246]

I use a 28ga brush in my 45's cylinders. Been afraid to do the drill but I get them clean. Also came across using Turtle Wax chrome polish and rust remover to gently clean scorching from cylinder face on stainless guns.

[@douglassnyder1292]

Thanks for the great idea. I have spent a LOT of time spinning my cleaning brush by hand in the chambers trying to get rid of that fouling. Your method should expedite the process. Looking forward to trying it.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Douglas Snyder -- Here is the full process - if chambers show fouling that survives the regular hand cleaning -- 1) the chucked cleaning rod in electric drill using next larger size brass brush and solvent (if too small = ineffective; if too large - brass brush destruction) 2) for heavier jobs - use subcaliber brass brush and wrap with Chore Boy copper mesh - run that into chamber with electric drill - this should do the trick 3) or wrap subcaliber brass brush with Midway Lead Removal Cloth or BC Lead Removal Cloth strip cut to fit brush - run that into chambers with electric drill. Your chambers should be spotless with minimal and easy work. Best to wear rubber gloves... Happy Thanksgiving to ya -- FC Steve.

[@douglassnyder1292]

Thank you for the excellent input Steve. I appreciate it. Fouling is not too much of an issue except when I use Hornady Hollow Base Wad Cutters because they are made with very soft lead. Don't buy em anymore. I do like to get my guns CLEAN though and this advice should help because the lead bullets I do use do leave some unwanted residue. Thanks again, and I hope you have a moist turkey. : )

[@douglassnyder1292]

Oh, and I do shoot a few jacketed rounds at the end of a shooting session to help scour the barrel, but that does not do much for the chambers, I have noticed.

[@russhayes4882]

Now that was some great information !

[@Eddy-gc2vx]

Yes William,G. I know that some if the old timers back when used a toothpaste called IPANA (sp) OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT . It actually cleaned out the copper and lead residue very well. Good video but the drill part looked harsh to the gun, but i guess it isn't

[@zankelley]

Brass vs steel. The brush will degrade before it can do any damage to the chambers. Just make sure you use the right brush material is all.

[@tjmooremusic]

Thanks FC! This is a most helpful tip. You got me to get out the flashlight and take a really close look and sure enough, though not alot I indeed see mild leading / fouling right at the front of the cylinder bores on my blackhawk. I use only jacketed ammo but just the same, it's right there. I'm going to try your method and get it cleaned up like new. Thanks again!

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

tjmooremusic - Always good to hear from the tjmooremusic..!! If you have an old aluminum pistol cleaning rod, I just cut off the handle at around 8-10 inches and it chucks readily in an electric drill. It will be useful for any of your cylinders, and can be used to clean any chamber with access...if you don't have the next larger size brass brushes, a sub - caliber brush can be used wrapped with Chore Boy...works well also. And for that extra clean, wrap in the direction of turn with Lead Removal Cloth and run that in there...all works well... Best to ya, FC Steve

[@frugalprepper]

those brushes on a drill are good for cleaning out all kinds of things on cars too! I have a bunch of them, only a few actually clean guns.

[@toddy2519]

Hey FC, thought I would give you and your viewers an alternative solution for lead fouling. The fouling is caused by too soft an alloy and/or pressures (fast burning powders) are too high. If you cast with a harder alloy it may do the trick, going to a slower burning powder helps and doing both should virtually solve the problem. This is not only true for revolver throats but semi-autos and centerfire rifles too. Sometimes, sizing .001 over caliber helps too, along with gas checks, for bullets that can use them. My Marlin 1894CS carbine and Dan Wesson 15-2 revolver use an RCBS 180-grain flat nose bullet with gas checks receiving no lead fouling at all! In my older Ruger Vaquero-Bisley, .45 Colt (the big heavy monster built like a tank), I get no lead fouling in the cylinders, minimal in the throat and none in the barrel itself with the above procedures! Hope that helps. I do want to thank you for bringing my attention to Starlines' Special Cowboy brass...looks like a great casing to experiment with as well as give me an alternative for my Bisley-Vaquero and new Ruger revolver, .45 Auto/.45 Colt they came out with a year or so ago. I plan on testing the .45 S&W Schofield cases too just to see which would be the better choice. Thanks again!

[@hardball107]

Just running through some of FC's old video's and found your question. I have been casting for 40 years and FC and Elvis Ammo have shown me the light and I powder coat all my cast lead bullets now. I cast from pure lead with some wheel weights and old solder thrown in and water quench, relatively soft. I then powder coat. No leading no matter how fast I push them. I load 158gr 357 Magnum hand cast and powder coated bullets over big charges of H110 and Enforcer out of my 20" Rossi M92 lever action, I see velocity's over 1900fps and have never seen any leading in any of my firearms. It's super simple.

[@jeffyoung6967]

In the days before the handy cordless drills I used a military ratcheting chamber brush. It still works of course although they are hard to find now.

[@bisonuberti]

I use this technique with my black powder pistols. It works fantastic, makes it very easy... or easier to clean the stubborn caked on black powder residue. Steve... have you notice any diminishing of the bluing? Shoot lots and stay safe.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

The cordless drill/bronze brush method is one I have used for many years now, without any problem, I wonder if the "fouling" you can see in the chamber throat is burnt powder coating, as the propellant fires, it will force past the projectile until it is in the narrow part of the cylinder, where it will then be sealed, or, the projectile obturates before it gets to the smaller dia area, it will be swaged back down at the very part showing "fouling", and maybe deposit some of the coating, you really need to get some fired projectiles back to inspect them, shoot a few into your swimming pool and recover them.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

Walter Bunning : Yes I realise that our powder coat is durable enough to withstand the down barrel heat/pressure, but my observations were that the surface of the projectile would be subjected to mechanical shear when the obturated projectile met the restriction in the front of the cylinder, especially just micro seconds after having hot gasses rush past it due to the "clearance" around the unsupported projectile in the normally cartridge part of the chamber, this does not appear to have caused any leading, but it could be something to be aware of when using our powder coated projectiles.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

Walter Bunning: You are quite right, I had forgotten that they were not powder coated bullets, but I was trying to find an explanation for the short "stain" in the cylinder, the short cases would certainly go some way to make up for the huge space in a normal Colt45 case when using smokeless propellant, I am always wary about such huge air gaps in loads, although the propellant manufacturers assure me it is acceptable.

[@InlinePaul]

Both my .357 and my .44 revolvers have that ring, but still will chamber magnums with no problem. How important is it to remove that fouling if it is not interfering with shooting the gun? It's not like it will eat away at the metal in the cylinder, right? So I opt to leave it alone until and unless it becomes an obstruction to chambering Magnums. Can avoid if one reloads and puts light loads typical of Specials into Magnum cases.

[@gunnareriksen8756]

Keep calm, there's a good thing coming!. I love to shoot. Love from Mr. Plinking. Keep them videos coming. Your the best!!!.

[@Thorsaxe777]

Good hack, a small patch cut from a chore boy (copper kitchen scrub pad) wrapped around a bronze brush works equally as well, maybe not as fast, however, it doesn't require you to use the drill. It also works equally as well on stubborn leading left behind in the bore caused by shooting Low quality commercial bullets that seem to be everywhere. Not everyone makes quality bullets like you and I cookie, That would be a good video for someone to do is the effects of shooting commercial bulk pack bullets that are marked as "Hard Cast" compared to crafted bullets made by the home caster. Powder coated or traditionally lubed. it would be a good test and about your style, good shooting to ya, Dave.

[@fee_lo8346]

It's safe to use on rifled portions of the barrel? Just making sure. Thanks for info.

[@jimv.661]

I've used Chore Boy for years. A word of warning to people trying this for the first time. Make sure it's Chore Boy. There are a lot of look alikes out there....and they are copper coated steel. Not good.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

TA777 - That copper Chore Boy also works well wrapped on a sub caliber brass brush with the electric drill...with snug fit, will clean out cylinders pronto... See ya soon..!! FC STeve

[@jimv.661]

The general rule with a rifled barrel is not to clean from the muzzle. It's hard to clean the forcing cone thru the cylinder window though. I sometimes will insert the cleaning rod down the muzzle, attach the brush with Chore Boy or patch with my homemade JB Cleaner on it, then pull thru the bore. With that said, most of the time I start the brush, Chore Boy, JB Cleaner down the muzzle carefully, and pinch the nylon coated cleaning rod between my fingers centering it. Most of my hand guns have 3-5" barrels so it's easy to do without damage to muzzle.

[@jimv.661]

I think that is pretty much what I said.

[@johnnycostner6806]

Question....I see you have numbers scribed on the front of the cylinder ...I just bought a lightly used 1967 blackhawk 357 and it has three numbers stamped as well...one cylinder has a 0,one has a 2 and one has a 3....and more confusing is the last three digits of serial number is 023..Any ideas on what it means ?? Thanks

[@blackie1of4]

I think the serial number is a coincidence and those numbers 0 2 3 are referring to loading your revolver with no round the one in two the second in three and so fourth. That way your carrying on an empty cylinder. Now... this doesn't mean you have to of course... but that's the safest way to load the cylinder.

[@mrrifleman1695]

just use sandpaper,that'll clean it out,only use a nylon brush for cleanin hard to cln cylrs

[@nickjm37fordel1]

Learned two things. One using the drill to clean. Two, didn't know there was a 45/70 brush! Can we use this method to clean are revolver barrel?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Hi Nick - power rotary brushes are not to be used in rifling...Best to wrap copper Chore Boy around a sub caliber brass brush and run it tight into our barrels with hand powered rods to clean. But smooth barrels like shotgun barrels and our revolver cylinders are perfectly cleaned with power rotation... Have a great day, FC Steve See ya..!!

[@generaluriah9569]

Have you ever considered a larger bullet dia. and a faster burning powder to promote bullet obturation. Before the bullet enters the chamber mouth ?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Timothy Weahry - It is normal to get minor fouling and minor leading that is easily removed with normal cleaning procedures. This video just mentions some quicker ways to do that - yes, we do want bullets .001 - .002" larger than cylinder throats for best obturation. Good shootin' to ya, FC Steve

[@crankybuzzard6867]

excellent!

[@CF-rx7hx]

Very nice.

[@tangotwo4743]

Have you ever done a video on using regular small primers in .357MAg and not magnum primers and if it causes issues with accuracy or fouling the barrel with un burnt powder ?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Tango Two 4 - Really depends on the powder. If shooting Unique or Red Dot, or Herco or Bullseye - those are easy to ignite powders so regular primers are used. Magnum primers for H110 because without them, there will be unburned powder. With magnum primers, H110 really sings. Errr roars.... Best to ya, FC Steve

[@tangotwo4743]

FortuneCookie45LC I use Western Powders Acccurate A5 powder and accidentally used regular primers in .357 mag and had no issues from using them. But did make sure I use small magnum primers from now on just to be safe. Or can I just use regular small primers with A5 powder??? A5 seems very similar to Unigue, but burns cleaner. Big difference in charge volume due to Unique being a disc powder and A5 is spherical

[@steveinla8963]

Greetings FC, how do you get the cylinder face so clean? R, Steve

[@donovanchilton5817]

For fucking real

[@daytonagreg8765]

SteveinLA Lead removal cloths, about $8 bucks. Chemical process but easy & quick with no harm to “STAINLESS” revolvers. NOT to be used on blued or other finish. For those, use those common green “scotch bright” pads with some Hoppes or fav oil cleaner & a little effort will remove the carbon/lead rings from the cylinder face. Again, those commercial “lead cloths” are ONLY SAFE on stainless revolvers. Good luck. Stay safe. #2A

[@samwilliams1142]

Now 45 cowboy special is even shorter.

[@vengenaceearly255]

Nice trick. :)

[@daytonagreg8765]

WOW!

[@DickTickles]

Notice FC is making this video BEFORE any videos of the .45 Cowboy Special reloading or shooting videos? Yeah, cuz he knows we're gonna shoot some of those short cases in our .45 Colt revolvers and complain about leading. BTW, that reminds me, hurry up and get to reloading and shooting .45 Cowboy Special will ya? I wanna know them standard devs man. First

[@jimv.661]

I think the fowling was lipstick from your lipstick bullets. Ha!

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Jim Vaughn - Ha, indeed..!! lol This particular fouling was from shooting the regular lead bullets...PC bullets can also leave a funny fouling, but cleans out without problems... Have a great day, FC

[@nastyforyou7342]

Too much talk, fell asleep first couple of minutes. Bad advice on using drill/brush... Just use a snake, enuf said!!!