Dangerous Kill Switch Bypass Fix Ground Wire to Briggs and Stratton 450e Auction Deal Of The Day

[@KimT-z9o]

THANK YOU! Ground wire caught on a stick, pulling it loose... mower would not start because it was grounding against the motor. You saved me from an expensive visit to the mechanic!

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

I'm glad it helped. Repair shops near me charge 110.00 per hour. Thank you for your support. Watch some of my other videos help me out. Share with someone who needs help.

[@WoodFever1]

Kill wire on TB110 - perfect video! Thanks!

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

Glad it helped...Thank you for your support

[@Captgreatvalue]

Thanks I will have to check this wire tomorrow

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

Hope you got it figured out, thanks for your support. Watch my other videos help me out.

[@gravelyman]

Great job Rich. You ended up with a good mower.🔧👍

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

These are nice sellers $150 Thanks for your support.

[@mr1pearl]

Happy 4TH Rich 🧨

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

Happy 4th Bill... pshhhh thanks for your support.

[@MikePate1975]

I know my comment was long, my apologies. I get carried away when talking about products I like. Especially when describing how to use them and in what situations and why use it rather than something else. I am a perfectionist to the core. But I wanted to let you know that you're video helped me fix my mower. I had been fighting it. I bought it used and it ran fine the first time I used it. Then it wouldn't start. So I checked the plug, the coil, the carb and decided it must be the carb. So I replaced it. Not bad, $13. Then still nothing. Ok pulled the coil and checked there resistance and got the same reading in all 3 locations. But I wasn't seeing a spark in my tester spinning it with a DeWalt 20 volt hammer drill on high but not set to use the hammer function. I usually work on 2 strokes and cars. So this thing was tripping me up. Then I remembered I always needed a corded drill if I was going to start a mower with a drill. Cordless doesn't have the RPM's. I watched your video and saw the ground disconnect and it hit me, check the damn ground. Well it had continuity, the resistance looked good, but I was getting a resistance reading everywhere I touched instead of just on that little plate and what is connected to. So I disconnected the kill wire and it starts right up no problem. But the odd part is if I let go of the handle it still dies like it's supposed to. And I don't see another wire grounding it anywhere. So that doesn't make sense. Not it works and I got my lawn cut. That was the big deal. I buy chainsaws and string trimmers that don't work, I fix them and resell them. I'm just now venturing into repairing mowers. We went through hurricane Ivan and Sally and without a chainsaw. I decided never again. I had so many sores on my hands from using a DeWalt 20 volt sawzall to cut my way out of our neighborhood both times. And the trees down where no joke. My mom lost 17 line trees well over 100' tall each. I didn't have to cut the trunks but just cutting out enough to get vehicles out of the driveway, and down to the stop sign was hard enough. So I swore never again. I bought the cheapest chainsaw I could find that didn't work and I proceeded to tear it down and find the problem. I kept doing that and upgrading and now I have a Stihl 046, a Stihl MS260, a Husqvarna 136E, Husqvarna 145E, Echo CS310 and a Echo CS352, as well as a Stihl string trimmer and a Echo blower all for my personal equipment and have sold over 300 chainsaws (I pay between $10-$20 per saw, put maybe $20 in parts and a few hours of time and sell them for $100 and up. If that's to rich for you then we can always do away with the warranty but no one ever wants to go that route. They would rather keep that) each comes with a 6 month warranty on parts and labor, and a typed report giving the readings on everything that can be tested and my opinion on a visual inspection of what can't. And I test everything from the resistance on the spark plug, to the coil and the wiring, to the compression, the pressure the carb holds and for how long the same with the cylinder, the firing voltage, the burn time for the plug and coil the idle RPM's and the wide open throttle RPM's. If it can be tested I test it and it's in that report. And if you don't find it different I will buy it back. And only 1 has ever come back. And that was my brother's I sold him at cost and it took him about 18 months to kill it. And it only has issues because he was using a second hand poulan wild thing 10-12 hours a day clearing land. He noticed it running hot and kept running out. Ran it through 4-5 more tanks of fuel with it getting progressively harder to start until it just wouldn't start. When I got it he had ran it so hot there was aluminum transfer on the cylinder walls and if you turned off the lights and stuck a flashlight in the cylinder it looked like a disco ball. Now he ran that thing like a forestry grade stihl for 18 months before he killed it. Then he blamed it breaking down on me not knowing what I was doing. I rebuilt it on my dime and sent it back to him with a note that said that this is a homeowners saw, a used one at that, it's capable of cutting up a few limbs here and there from a storm. If you want to clear land call someone who knows how to operate a chainsaw and pay them to do it. I told him when he got it the first time to take it and have the carb set because the humidity and temp is different where he is and I don't care what you say but chainsaws are temperamental as all get out and I have seen them start fine today and not want to start or run tomorrow. Humidity variations effect your saw and how it runs. Well he never took it to have the saw tuned to his environment. So it was tuned to where I live. We both live in Florida, but he lives near Gainesville and I live in Pensacola.. And believe it or not that it's enough to make a saw be not set right. His sons went even start there but runs like a scalded dog here. And his carb was set here. Anyway. I told him that I wouldn't be fixing another saw for him or selling him another at a discount. He done got all the freebies I was gonna give.

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

I'm glad it help fix the problem. Chain saws and weed trimmers are always good, most of the time I find primer bulb and gas lines put in fresh gas mix. Thanks for your support.

[@baldeagle242]

Go ahead and prime for a good time! 😂👍

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

Ya buddy, love to prime. It's like give the mower a shot of starter fluid. Beats auto choke any day Pshhhh! Thank you for your support.

[@johncollins8304]

Intetesting! I have a Kawasaki FJ180v on an OREC mower. Changing the coil I made the HUGE mistake of not just removing the spade connection of the kill wire but the other end too, which was a bolt going through an insulator with a thin, bent copper strip on part of the plate holding the carb springs. When I unbolted, the hidden underneath copper thing fell down but I was able to recover it. No info on internet so I don't know which way the bend (actually there are two) in the copper are supposed to go. Well, it fires up but my new gadget SPARK TEST*R £50 which is a one-man doodad flashes yellow meaning there is too much voltage. So I'm thinking if I can't find the proper way to turn the copper strip can I just take a bit of wire and fit it anywhere to ground it. Thanks. Liked and subbed.

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

I surprised you can't find any information on it...try a part manual they might have everything separated and show how it goes back together. It is always best to restore it to the original. Older engines had a flat piece of metal bolted to the engine. You just pressed it on top on the spark plug to turn it off. Thanks for stopping by and your support. Hope all goes well. Check out some of my other videos.

[@Captgreatvalue]

It was the coil

[@RichsMowersNBlowers]

Ya thank you for your support. Watch my other videos help me out.