Remove Cranks Without A Crank Puller

[@charlessanderson2079]

This is probably my first KZbin comment ever. Since KZbin was born. This video convinced me to buy a crank puller. You need to get into marketing.

[@Phil-qz6oc]

Same, and I don’t even have a bike.

[@Patient-Unknown]

I have the tool lost it came here to see if there was any ideas. I’ll go back to looking for the tool.

[@jesus71697]

​@@Phil-qz6octr3[reereeee

[@kyledurham5814]

If it was your first comment ever !! did you really need to say probably ?? White lies are OK though 😊

[@JoshNeil-zc4qc]

Hahahaha

[@mobilephone4045]

I know this is a really old video, but I just wanted to say thanks. I live on a tiny island and it will take a month for a crank puller to get here, so I replicated your last method exactly (but with a metric bolt haha) and it worked a treat. I'm fixing up a really nice old bike from the 80s that I found in the trash, just for the purposes of learning and fun. I love your approach and your videos have been a gold mine of wisdom, so again, many many thanks.

[@davidcummings5826]

Nice to have a video for all the folks who didn’t watch “How to remove a crank without stripping the threads.” We needed that...

[@stevepedigo]

RJ-this is Steve Pedigo THE Bikeguy in Alpine, Texas!. It has been great seeing someone showing useful techniques for doing bike work. Though I have been doing this for many years, it's always refreshing to see someone else thatcares about the work they do-at least, on video. I've seen so many bike techs that are jaded, and don't care about their customer's bikes. Thank you for taking the time...

[@keithwarburton9610]

Your advice worked a treat. One of my 1989 Shimano cranks had a damaged thread but eventually came off with your final method. Thanks very much.

[@Friendroid]

Since April and thanks to your vids I've: fixed 3 kid size bikes (thought 1 kid how to ride); renovated an old mountain bike from the late 90s (strip down every single part except BB); bought and tuned a 2009 Specialized Hard Rock for myself (rode 150km these past 3 weeks); tuned a foldie for my sister and am in the process of renovating 2 more mtbs. THANK YOU!

[@AvaPxiaO]

Finally someone preaching sense instead of ruining good parts due to the laziness of getting the right tool. What I like about RJ is that he doesn't just tell you what is right and wrong, he explains rationally why something is right or wrong, so you are left with little doubt. If you have gotten stuck with a used bike whose crank-arms keep coming loose, and even thread glue doesn't keep them on, now you know how they got this way. Continuing to ride the bike home after they have gotten wobbly will finish the job of trashing them.

[@eyesrajones]

Thank God for this video. I've got a crank with threads destroyed and didn't know what to do.

[@charliepi]

so glad you ended it with "just buy the tool". It's definitely one worth having.

[@leemilica]

Yea, but I am broke and 14 years old.

[@captainnemo2150]

How much are they?

[@Stephen-N]

@@captainnemo2150 about £12, halfords charge £10 so your best off just getting one if you plan on needing a new crank arm more than once

[@amirhouseingholinia2023]

Captain Nemo in China you can buy it for $2.50

[@joelrandle1972]

I bought one SO SORRY I DID instead of pulling it apart like it supposed to - apparently both of my square spindles are special NOT beware of buying you bicycle tools of amazon! It ripped the threads out of my pedal hanger ruining it! I could have saved myself about 30$ and a headache! Beings I know have to buy a new one I could have just cut it off (yes I used the tool properly!) Evidently mine are put on with more tourqe than the threads would stand up to

[@Toto-is8ci]

The additional detail of what size bolts to use for square taper vs octolink is why I watch your videos. Great job. There are lots of people who don't have the resources to spend even $5 for a puller and this will show the pros and cons of each method. As always illuminating.

[@timothysooknanan3990]

Wait so they bought a $300 bike and doesn't have $5 to buy a tool for the bike?smh

[@marygold7055]

@@timothysooknanan3990 s300 for a bike ? more like 150 dollars

[@OriginalUsername9000]

I used your bearing puller method on a crank with stripped threads and it worked great after heating up and cooling it down a few times.

[@JohnSefton]

Sometimes you can't just buy the tool.It might be a case of the tool broke or would not work if the threads are stripped out,as happened to me.

[@YaNo...]

This guy is very useful ....every time i got problem on my bike..i go to his channel...

[@kuechekretzschmar2655]

... and to Amazon afterwards I hope ....🤗

[@bert-the-cosh7493]

He is a pro with a nice clear presentation!

[@laurentiussoepomo7747]

WoW.... I've just got that trouble recently and I almost gave up until I saw your inspirational video. Thanks Mr R.J. I will pull the Crank soon with one of your recommendation. God Bless You.

[@chasingvenusfilmarts]

Best ad I've ever seen for "just buy the (proper) tool" . My thoughts exactly. Work smarter not harder.

[@selfactualizer2099]

No the proper tool stripped the thread. I had to get a gear puller which is a more effective tool that isn't even designed for bikes. Why does everyone on the internet try to assert their intelligence smh we are all dumb animals

[@redalert2834]

For those who don't have the time and patience to saw through the cranks or the bottom bracket, and don't mind damaging things when the crank threads are in a bad state already, thwack the chain rings directly with a hammer (rotating them between blows) and, for the trickier non-drive side crank, place a plank sideways on the ground and rest the inner surface of the crank, near the axle, on the plank - then hammer DOWN on the end of the crank using the plank as a pivot. This has worked well for me and the bottom bracket was still in good working order, amazingly!

[@unairamos74]

At last a sensible advice for those times when you need to carry out the one job and buying a specific tools is just not worth it. Thanks a lot!!!

[@harrisonp3727]

Good ideas. I've got a crank arm with stripped threads and will try these out.

[@thomasc.belanger9893]

Hi RJ, been a while, I just replaced my crank arm the same way that I change my bearings, for years, never hurts anything unless it falls on my toe, I use the butane torch, all plastic off, heat ,and torn while applying pressure with a large screwdriver, fell off too fast the other day and hit my toe, Take care, trampolines today and tomorrow.☺ FanTom USA

[@arnaudsimon2616]

Thank you RJ, that video saved the day for me. Somewhere in Oregon, a crank arm with stripped threads is NO LONGER stuck!😊

[@yggyking10]

I don't have a vice like you show at 8:00, so instead I drilled a 3/8" hole in a piece of 2x4, put a long 3/8" bolt through the hole, and bolted it onto the 2x4. This worked well as a support for the bottom bracket spindle and enabled me to pound off the drive-side crank. Victory at last, I've been wrestling with this crank for weeks!

[@kovie9162]

Great idea! I actually have an anvil with what I believe is a 3/8" square hole that I could use this solution on to secure the bolt that will protect the BB spindle. Btw, ever since you removed the crank this way, has the bottom bracket worked properly, i.e. smooth, no roughness or resistance or weird noises, etc.?

[@yggyking10]

@@kovie9162 I also replaced the bottom bracket during the same overhaul, so I can't answer that. It appears fine, and feels like it turns smoothly but I haven't tried it under load.

[@jdgoesham5381]

If you're just trying to get the arm off for say a pedal assist for certain sensors take off the outer bolt, make sure there's no plastic orings or retaining caps in the spindle and use a butane torch to the bottom of the arm and spindle and use pressure on the arm like pushing with a screwdriver or tapping at the base of the arm and for me it popped right off. I've had to do it twice on different bikes. And no hitting hard enough to do damage. It mostly just popped off with pushing lightly at the base when it got warm enough.

[@g.d.1722]

I have done pretty much every method described in the video. If you don't have the crank puller or treads are stripped on the crank, I find the best method for a LEFT crank is using the "pickle fork" auto ball joint remover. Never use the "pickle fork" tool to remove the right crank because you WILL bend the chainrings. If you don't have the "pickle fork" tool then hammer out both sides using a metal bar as shown at 8:30. Good video! ... Save yourself the suffering and buy the tool already ...

[@WickedTwitches]

These videos have saved my bike at least once.

[@pahaahv]

To me, the vice idea is the nicest. I designed a wooden puller tool for stripped threads with three long and wide headed bolts and three holes in a block, the heads of two bolts on the sides would go under the chainring and the middle bolt would push the bottom bracket axle. Also I have a soviet chainsaw puller tool that my dad lathed into the correct thread and this is now my main crank arm remover. But yet to try that wooden block puller, I think it would be a very cheap solution, although considering time, I saw a cheap puller for 2 bucks online, so essentially it would still be reasonable to get the real thing.

[@snakeindigo7085]

+1 "just buy a crank puller". Cheap versus potentially trashing the whole bicycle frame!

[@joey0077d]

I bought the tool. But if your a type that doesn’t have the money to spend on tools . Your method in removing the cranks works. Thanks for sharing your video.

[@kovie9162]

If you can't afford a $5-10 tool or are too cheap to buy one and need to remove your cranks now and then, then you shouldn't be riding a bike, or should expect to have to junk it when it breaks down. Bikes are like cars, they have to be maintained and sometimes fixed, and that costs money. The methods shown here are for when the proper tools no longer work, not instead of using them.

[@bob-ny6kn]

Stripped crank-puller-mount threads are the common problem in used bicycles that people want working again where "the tool" will not work. Cutting takes just as long, is noisy, creates filings and uses up cutoff wheels. I like the bearing puller (triple-hook thing), but put a few, light, hammer-taps to help walk the crank off in a parallel motion.

[@aidavcomedy]

Im currently getting an aluminium one off a steel bike using caustic soda. It’s super destructive and a bit dangerous, but works if you’re desperate. I’ve gotten a stuck quill stem out this way, aluminium sometimes chemically bonds to steel, but it melts in caustic soda where steel is not too bothered by it

[@hEUgE65]

Thanks, I broke my removal- tool (bent the thread rod and stripped out the thread on the pedal arm bit) and went to brute force, not saving nothing since it's in total seizure. Good stuff.

[@MrJay_White]

if you have used one of the methods that damages the interface, low strength threadlock can be used to fill the gaps so it seats firmly, and makes no difference when you next go to remove the crank with the tool.

[@slippy9916]

Perfect Man. Had stripped out threads & been o there since late 90's. 2×4 & hammer Thanks man 🏁🏁🏁🏁

[@blipco5]

I bought the Park Tool twenty years ago for cheap. My estimate is it will last forever at the rate I use it. Yes, it will outlast mankind.

[@kaylaparsley7468]

Very smart man. He knows what he is talking about!! This particular video is kinda long, but…. But, but, but if you know nothing about bikes (like myself) this video is extremely educational!! Thanks so much for posting “R J the bike guy!!” Appreciate your videos brother😀🤓

[@JustClaude13]

Speaking from experience: The pickle fork is too wide. It just cuts into the crank arm without applying any outward pressure. On my project (the threads are stripped so I'm scrapping the cranks anyway) the back of the crank arms are beveled, so gear pullers spread out and fall right off. My next option is a pitman arm puller, which is like a gear puller with the arms built into the base rather than pivoting, so they can't spread. That would work, but I don't already have one and it would cost as much or more than a new bottom bracket, I think the hacksaw is the best answer.

[@neon_one]

Learning how to clean my bike feels a lot like learning to be a bike repairman. Anyway these video are very helpful. Thanks. I like how you make everything visible and don't add music or unnecessary production BS like you're a cable tv host, which is popular now for some reason.

[@MikeCheckBiloxi]

I was think of Scotty Kilmer when I hear you speak...and it tickles me

[@scottwalker3162]

I certainly wouldn't give that dude my klein mantra... Bent chainrings

[@suecarlson7311]

Love scotty and rj---but the tool with hot water and hammering worked--even a propane torch didn't

[@kovie9162]

Rev up your crank arms!

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy

[@rgmtb]

Very helpful tips here! It's nice to have options that don't always focus on beating the heck out of the bike! Thank you :-)

[@orianthigao6261]

Thank you so much. Tried to work out for 30 minutes until saw this video.

[@timcargile1562]

Best to buy the removal tool or a bicycle-specific tool kit (what I did).I wrote this before I watch RJ's best recommendation at the end. Thanks for creating and uploading this video, RJ.

[@heinverschuren2636]

'Just buy a crankpuller', my option of choice but crankpuller' for early 80's T.A. Specialities with an inner thread of 23mm are very hard to find. I'm convinced now that using the 3-armed automotive puller will work.

[@vibs1614]

Great vid. I always use a correct puller however half the time it strips the treads....so then it's three prong or hack saw. I avoid the problem in the future by using never sieze on reassyembly.

[@babyyoda1758]

Great video he goes through every jimyrig solution one after the other.

[@isankalakshan5357]

This was really helpful,I was searching for a explained method of over all because my crank's pulley area was strapped off Thank you so much for keep doing videos of retro bikes❤️

[@lacihalasz]

I tryed with that 3 arm puller ...boy i have broke tha puller ! It was that hard to get it off :( , and the puller costs like 100 $ . So buy that little crank puller and go with God speed :)

[@ruralsalt]

So helpful. Thank you again for your tremendous videos.

[@ceb9203]

A while ago i was faced with a cheap steel crankset with stripped treads n no way 2 get it off, easy fix was hit it with the blow torch n it fell off in 1 tap!

[@ToninFightsEntropy]

Thank you for being so thorough! Excellent video!

[@geoffpoole483]

Hi RJ, I know you've made videos on using a crank tool. All I can add is not to rush the job when using one. It's very easy to damage the threads on the crank (a lesson I learned the hard way). Interesting to see ways of how NOT to remove a crank.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGbKnnShgrGLbJI

[@BokorRider]

I had one with damaged threads no access to a 3 leg puller but a small propane blow torch. As long as your prepared to re-grease the bottom bracket heat the crank up and a tap with a hammer and off it will come....I have the correct puller ..plenty good ideas from RJ !

[@thomassoderstrom6369]

I have a collection of crank arms that were either damaged by hammering on the back side, the front side (with the bolt sticking out but not far enough), or by using a gear puller. That's right, a regular gear puller damages the arms. But you can knock them loose if you hammer the spindle out of the arm: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZprLinuEd6mqgJo This arm in the above video was already damaged from someone hammering on the half-removed bolt as mentioned above. Moving the point of impact away from the face of the crank solves that issue. As for mis-strikes, the BEST driver to use is an M8x1mm bolt that's longer than the original: I've used a vintage solid front axle for this, but didn't have one handy for the video I linked. The second best option is to find a punch that's fairly snug in the hole, so that it doesn't move around as you're trying to strike it. There's also a positioning issue: If you have to knock the spindle out of the arm, it's best to balance the seat and bars on a bench or even the back of your couch, and hold the bottom of the frame up to level by holding the crank arm with your free hand. I couldn't do that for the video I linked, because I couldn't get the tripod high enough to point down at me doing that.

[@Bishop0151]

Thank you for this. I'm in the process of trying to rescue a much abused bike that was left out withe the trash. Tying to pull the drive side crank to replace the chain rings and it's jammed so tight my crank extractor just pulled the threads out. I think I'll be trying the gear puller, more affordable than I feared. But you have given me options as well.

[@mikdaddario6257]

thanks, you have no idea how many times you help me out

[@kovie9162]

I'm in this situation right now. I always used the proper removal tool but stripped the inner crank threads when I previously reinstalled the crank because the crank bolt washer was slightly cocked and sheared half the threads off. When I just tried to remove the crank to replace a chainring I found this out. I tried several non-destructive methods. First I tried to use plumber's tape to see if that would allow the removal tool to sufficiently bite into the crank threads, but that failed. Then I tried a 3" 2/3 jaw puller in both 2 and 3 jaw mode and all that it managed to do was chip off tiny parts of the crank from the inner side as the crank is rounded near the center and there's really nothing to grab onto. I'm hoping to be able to smooth out the gashes on that side with a rotary tool and that this didn't damage the crank structurally. Meantime I ordered an M22x1.00 tap set to see if I can repair and restore the inner crank threads so I can use a removal tool. My guess is that there's not enough metal left for that to be possible, but it's worth a try. M22 threaded bores are common on cars so I could always use them on that if I ever damage any. I also came upon a special crank removal tool made by Unior, (Square Taper Crank Puller - 1662/4), that has a hard tapered outer thread that digs into the crank where the threads were stripped, effectively retapping them and giving enough grip to then remove the crank. It's just over $20 and I'll probably buy it to make removal easier in the future if I'm unable to restore the crank threads. But one of the solutions in this video also occurred to me, to punch out the crank from the other side but by first protecting the spindle from movement so that the bottom bracket isn't damaged. I don't have a bench vise but I thought that resting whatever I used to protect the spindle against an anvil, which I do have, would accomplish the same thing. I figure that an impact socket of the right size would do the trick and its flat ends would prevent slippage. No way would I use a pickle fork let alone grind the crank out. It's over 20 years old and not that easy to replace affordably, and if I can save it and hopefully the bottom bracket, that would be ideal. But I will need that special removal tool for future removal, if I can't restore the crank threads. Lots of potential solutions that won't ruin the crank and/or bottom bracket.

[@swifttking4160]

So, I just recently got the tool to remove the cranks, but, I think this is such great info! Thanks for the amazing tips! 👍

[@marvellousmusic4336]

Great video, i fitted a UN300 bb and then put my drive side chainset on but forgotten that it was bent so i wanted to remove again, the thread went on my crank puller so the srive side is stuck, as long as i can remove it, as you say i dont want to damge the BB, ut doesn't matter if the chainset gets damaged because I will be putting a new one on. Thank you.

[@1973honza]

Stuck or squeaking square tapered BBs are the biggest pain in the ass I have ever experienced with my bikes. Thank god for Hollowtech. It's the best thing that happened to cycling in ages, maybe ever.

[@joelarmstrong6127]

Good idea to put it in a vice to isolate the impacts away from the frame. I was worried about damaging my aluminum frame

[@quoththeraven3985]

Hey RJ. Great video, at 8:00 put the crank arm in the vice and tap the spindle out of the crank arm. Much better way. Thx

[@fishycomics]

I may haveto buy one only if I can find a 32 or 22 crank kit to swap out my Huffy parkside sprocket

[@johntaylor4193]

I’m gonna buy the tool.

[@AaronEpple-kn4qr]

I have an old Roadmaster Granite Peak 24 18-speed mountain bike. I had to use a ratchet with a size 9/16 extension to remove the bolt

[@adamhughes3119]

Tried to saw through an octalink spindle. New blade in the saw, and it just skated over the steel. After 30 mins I had about a 1mm deep groove. Didn’t need the arm, and decided to risk the BB by using the brute force hammer method. It went much quicker 😁 Luckily it survived, still spins smooth, but be prepared to need a new BB if you try this method.

[@drbobjohnson812]

RJ I have benefited from many of your videos for quite some time, Just wanted to add one point about using a gear puller. In my area Southern CA - San Diego my local auto parts stores Orielly AKA Kragan and Auto Zone have gear pullers in their free tool rental program. Basically you put up a deposit equal to the price of the tool, use it, return it and get a full refund. In general what I do when I have a challenge with one of my bikes, #1 get the right tool for the job, if the tool wont work or it is one I would not use often I watch RJ the bike guy to learn how to make my own version of the tool and go from there

[@1972mdc]

Love your ideas! Built a few tools based on your videos including a derailleur straightener but in this case I have a park tool remover for taper but not spline…$15 I’ll just buy it and be done. Thx for the great videos

[@mazshaw5895]

Hi RJ. I do use the ball-joint tool method but only when the threads are stripped. In fact, I've used all of your methods at one time or another. Again, when the threads are stripped so no need to worry about damage to the chainset. Great advice on supporting, using rags etc. It only takes a few more minutes and can save other parts from being damaged. Not to mention minimising the absorption of impact, (if you Have to), when the BB axle is supported.

[@PaulBillingtonFW]

I love you very authentic, down and dirty, advice. I spent much time looking at rich kids in lycra giving their methods. You show the option! Great work!

[@sueneilson896]

All the methods mentioned here will work vastly better if some heat is applied to the crank arms near the spindle. Even boiling water from the kettle works a treat. Can’t believe this was not mentioned. Very basic trick.

[@hubdeep9452]

I have the correct tool but I got a second hand bike where the thread on the chainset for the crank extractor tool had been stripped by the previous owner. Loosening the bolt and taking it out for a ride worked great for me.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

I hope you are planning on replacing the crank then.

[@hubdeep9452]

@@RJTheBikeGuy Yes, I replaced it with a much better crank.

[@massimouguzzoni8631]

I have that problem, I'll try. Many many thanks. Best regards from Italy.

[@seventhson72]

Just a correction we talked about using a hacksaw to cut the spindle and then you're left with the crank arm with the nub end of the spindle left-handed into put it invites to knock it out he said to open up the vice just wide enough to put the stub in it and then use like a screwdriver and Hammer to knock it out well if you've got the stub n the vice gripping it, it's not going to go. You need to put the crank arm in the vice maybe with some scrap pieces of wood or something to keep the teeth of the vice from marring the crank arm but then you can use a screwdriver and Hammer to knock the stuff out so it falls down to

[@vincentssoul2369]

got the same problem with non drive side, I found more compact version Windshield Wiper Arm Puller there is a several vertions with thinn grab where is a little space between arm and shell

[@nicanorbadal689]

On the leftside crank arm you can maybe used a two arm wheel fuller...there are 3 arm wheel fuller that are designed to be easily converted to 2 arm

[@vincentvincent2658]

for rad runner + i used the puller on the drive side. cracked loose the tool but it woudnt come off except a little so i went on other side loosened the ring with the wire plug connected to it loosned it the other side came off now you twist off the the exposed threads with your fingers until both sides fall off completely. i did it this way because i bought the wrong type of crank puller set mine was tapered i bought oct.

[@rosomak8244]

The banding and hammering will not to more damage do the bearing of the crank than regular rides over potholes will do.

[@allenmcdaniel1470]

Wish you would SHOW and talk briefly about the type of bike you're working on....where MADE, construction, year, $$ on used market, tire size, etc. Thanks. Good stuff!

[@Travwood-t3n]

Thanks bro. So helpful, Good looking out

[@wildthinair]

Great video. I’ve got the Parktool puller and never looked back. 🇬🇧

[@ottomatic7997]

Lots of good tips to not hurt your bike. Best quote: ' the operation was a success, but the patients dead' 😂

[@samteks125]

Definitely buy the Shimano tool if you can. Really worth the money

[@dgtlionbarger]

Great information and organized. Thank you

[@benyedlin2521]

A retro 14mm crank bolt head (unrimmed) is also the perfect octalink adapter if you have a puller but no adapter, drop the bolt in threads to the inside.

[@TimpBizkit]

I might have to give the 3 jaw puller a try.

[@benyedlin2521]

Additionally if you have a thin box wrench place the haft in between the bottom bracket and the crank arm. this takes up a bunch of space. now you have an easy leverage point for a long crowbar or prybar. comes off real easy (square taper only) This is the same principle as puttin a block of wood under a claw hammer head before pulling out a nail (maximum leverage advantage)

[@NathanaelNewton]

Well It looks like i'm gunna need to get a crank puller because I've tried to use a bolt and it's jammed on there too hard.. Somehow the crank arm is BENT on my bike, need to replace it with a spare from another frame so I guess I'll have to wait until I have some more money and can buy one. Thanks for the info!

[@SaitekFreak999]

Btw, there are dust caps for the crank bolts that double as crankpullers. My BLB Super Pista's have them.

[@freewoodencrosses]

My crank on one side came off easy, but the other side stripped out. I used the Dremel tool method and it cut the aluminum easy and in 10 minutes I had the crank off and it came off before the cutter came in contact with the square crank arm.

[@maltinamaltina2665]

I'm sure that a lot of people are like me - watching this video because we have both the standard, the Campag and the TA crank puller tool, but we are trying to get the cranks off a frame that needs some non-standard vintage crank puller tool, or the threads have already been stripped by someone else.

[@paulrooster2108]

I always use a Brass Drift , never leaves any marring unless it's some really really soft crappy steel , but even then it can be polished out with a lil bit of emery cloth if it bothers you that much , plus you see better just what your hitting , my 2 cents for the day , keep stroking

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Steel? Most cranks are aluminum unless they are very old, or very cheap.

[@paulrooster2108]

RJ The Bike Guy - well this was on Older Stuff , my Grandson has this higher tech, carbon fiber , titanium , type stuff

[@OrlandoGordon-e8r]

One way to remove is to take your right arm and hold the peddle firm and vibrate it in and out very quickly while pulling towards you to loosen it out remember grasp very firm.

[@pluto2904]

Definitely worth being able to do it easily than struggling for hours

[@jamestate8094]

Was wondering if any of this advice changes if I just need to replace the LEFT crank arm only? Left arms threads stripped where the pedal attaches and I purchased a replacement arm and can’t get the original arm off, any advice would be much appreciated :)

[@boracay12]

i tried to buy a crank puller here locally , and its not available .plus to order one is 2 weeks . but i will get one . in the mean time , my left crank arm comes of relatively easy . i used a large open wrench in the ball joint remover fashion . it was just a little bigger than the space between the bottom crank and arm . it popped right off . then i was able to pull the spindle with the ring gear and crank arm together. so i had the nut on the spindle backed off a little . and used a socket and a extension , the nut has a flange on it . i used a hammer to pound on the extension . and drove the spindle out a little , backed off the nut a little more , once . after that it was loose enough to drive out directly on the spindle with the nut removed using the extension, minus the socket .

[@randomprecisionmotors3130]

That's great and everything, but what if you only want to remove the pedal shafts, and leave the sprocket on there? Is the shaft on the sprocket side integrated with the sprocket? Does it need to be cut off?

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

I have no idea what you are saying.

[@randomprecisionmotors3130]

@@RJTheBikeGuy is the pedal shaft and the sprocket one piece on a Schwinn, which I assume is what you were demonstrating on...

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

@@randomprecisionmotors3130 kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJvKpKtvebSfbtE

[@pyroromancer]

i had a case where the driveside crank couldn't be removed without destroying it. I found while using the 3 jaw gear puller and removing the arm.and race of the nondrive side. Hit the pin of the gear puller with a hammer with increasing fotce until the spindle falls put throigh the nondrive side.

[@johnpena9165]

What if the arm threads are stripped and the tool won't work, will applying heat to the arm where it attaches to the crank then prying the arm off work ?

[@kpapi4355]

How did you know I needed this video RJ!

[@skanskar]

the crank puller thread on the non drive side is damaged. Can they be re-threaded?

[@bob-o9865]

@RJ the Bike Guy, hi I want to convert my bike to a 1X chainring so I just need to remove the 3 rings and the crank ? Right? And should I leave the BB bearings? It’s on a new bike( Huffy Carom)