John Deere Model A Maintenance - First Oil Change and Fuel Problems

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Check out the lock and lube and 3m work tunes headphones at the following links Lock and lube: amzn.to/3wLLuR5 Dewalt grease gun: amzn.to/3g5i7mO 3m Work Tunes amzn.to/3mHcGvB Thanks for watching and check out our other John Deere 2038R compact tractor videos at kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWrGlHaofremnbs And subscribe to our channel at kzbin.info Buy me a coffee - www.buymeacoffee.com/rockhillfarm Thanks for watching

[@andrewanderson1436]

Old tractor's are cool and u always learn something from them.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Yes sir Putting on a new carburetor Monday

[@Bob-vb8lc]

That's a nice tractor and a good project. I would enjoy that. Have a good one Sir

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks. I’ve got a lot to learn but I am looking forward to it

[@MyClutteredGarage]

Nice project, Brock.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thank you sir

[@rodshepard3967]

Really enjoy watching your new project, Brock. Happy 4th of July!

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks You as well

[@PurpleCollarLife]

I love troubleshooting videos like these. :) Especially if I'm not the one with the frustration of figuring things out all the time. :)

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Exactly Thanks for watching

[@montiraruba2831]

Regarding your oil change, when you remove the oil filter, don't forget to remove the old oil filter gasket which is tucked away in the groove where the oil filter cap sets in. I usually remove the O-ring gasket with my pocket knife.

[@rodneyscrivner2504]

Good Video Brock, Looking forward to seeing this classic run again. Congrats on the purchase.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks Should be fun

[@johndeere1951a]

There are compression release petcocks in the engine block, below the spark plugs, hidden behind the frame rails. You can open those to blow out flooding condition. Close them after it fires up. Get an Operator's Manual and study it! Amazing amout of information about servicing this tractor. Trans/rear axle oil, reduction gear case oil willbe full of water and sludge- drain and refill that every 4 months with 1/2 Qt motor oil. Good luck 💚💛

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Right, I do that. Thanks for watching

[@davidmays2161]

This looks like a fun project. Keep the videos coming. Also looks like your back is feeling much better.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks I’m already ordering stuff for the tractor Pretty excited about it My back is about 90% recovered Thanks for watching

[@marvindiamonjr.9631]

It seems that Marvel Mystery Oil helps old engines that weren't designed to run on unleaded gasoline. It reduces engine knock and protects the valves along with much of the fuel system. It was a blessing to my old Harley! Leaky gaskets and possibly a faulty carb float. That would explain the overfilled oil pan and thin oil. Looks like you're well on your way to having a useful piece of equipment! I love it!

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks

[@TractorHoarders]

Welcome to the world of two cylinders. :) I've currently got a B, A, & G that I work on on my channel. For your fuel tank situation, originally there was a 3-way valve to let you select which tank to use fuel from. The small tank was for Gas. The large tank was for Distillate. You may have an "All Fuel" manifold, but running Gas all the time is what people do now of course. Sometimes over time people switched them over to the Gas only manifold. Also, aside from the fuel gasket issues with the carb, you likely have float issues and that's what's causing fuel to keep running into the cylinders. These are good old machines. Enjoy!

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I am subscribed to your channel. My tractor has been converted to gas only. The three-way manifold is gone. I’ve got a new carburetor ordered. Thanks for watching

[@TractorHoarders]

@@RockhillfarmYT Cool, I am subscribed as well. Should be a fun project to tinker with. Once you get it healthy maybe you can find some fun videos to do with both it and the 2038R. I’m sure the 2038R can do pretty much everything better than it except for maybe pulling all day long. Haha. You can add a 3 point hitch to the A pretty easily also.

[@dmalloy96]

Have a great 4th weekend nice find on the old tractor hope ya get it fixed

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks

[@amerritt261]

It's a super easy rebuild. In most cases you can get a kit at tractor supply. That's where I picked mine up.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for sharing. With all the supply chain issues I was trying to order A rebuild kit online and they were all saying sold out I ended up getting a new carb for But I have the old one that I can rebuild

[@solardiyhobbyandrevies8118]

Lucas oil stabilizer is awesome stuff. Had a Diesel generator that smoked real bad and added that and the smoke went completely away. Just added a quart each change and no more problem.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for sharing

[@edpickering8075]

Thank you so much...

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for watching

[@watkinstreefarm6880]

Fun little adventure. You going to use that to pull a hay wagon for the tree farm??

[@RockhillfarmYT]

That’s the idea. I thought it could kind of be the mascot. It might sit out at the end of the driveway that time of year

[@watkinstreefarm6880]

@@RockhillfarmYT That's awesome!! For now if I get a wagon, it will be pulled by the 1026R. 👍

[@IveysFamilyFactotum]

I know that some people are a die hard when it comes to WD40 but I can tell you right now that its not the end all of lubricants. I have found through my Navy experience and use of hazmat that Corrosion-X is a far superior lubricant/water displacement. Plus it is also electrical safe and nano tech so can also be used as a penetrating oil. Water Displacement 40 is a one show pony. Good to see though that you can still get some parts for these old tractors.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for the info I mainly use WD-40 for cleaning not lubricating It looks like there are tons of aftermarket parts available

[@khtractors]

Typical of old gas engines with gravity fed tanks. You’ll probably need to change your oil again after getting the carb replaced. I’d say you got more gas in it the way it filled those cylinders. Once you get that all figured out I believe it will run good. I guess the reason you thought the battery was dead is from the gas filling the void above the cylinder. There’s was no way it could spin over at that point, but those are things we don’t always think about. Good video.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for the feedback. I don’t have a lot of experience with this older equipment. I have a carburetor ordered for it. I’m planning to take off the gas tank and clean it out and change the oil again before trying to run it

[@ww3ok]

Great project, Brock. I want to rebuild a tractor!

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks

[@MJF40]

You should think about some type of glove for used oil, especially that old and with gas. Certainly don't need to wait long for drainage. MMO is one of my favorites.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

thanks for sharing

[@montiraruba2831]

With the fuel sediment bowl removed the fuel coming out of the tank comes out from the center post of the sediment fuel body.

[@robh7421]

Awesome video and what a great project! Kinda interested to see what the greese gun pushes out when you walk around her. You'll get her back to life! But it will take patience. I restored a couple farmalls years ago. A (super A) and a (super C.) Very relaxing and frustrating at the same time. I bought them both for $500. Neither ran or had a bit of paint on them. I learned patience. Lol.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for sharing. I paid 800 for this

[@turbo_veryfast4388]

On the oil seal you might got the wrong one. This should be the right one A519R. There be a Groove in the casing where it should have to use a pick to take the old one out. On fuel seafoam is a good fuel cleaner. Carburetor will be expensive. Had to have my rebuild and it cost me two hundred bucks. I would change the transmission oil. Cuz I had water in mine. Hopefully this helps have a good day.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for sharing I just ordered a carburetor Paid 450 but get 150 core charge back

[@turbo_veryfast4388]

On the gas tank first tank is for kerosene. Second tank is for gas.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for sharing I believe they were called all fuel because you could run diesel kerosene or something called distillate. The small tank that was designed for gas is disconnected on mine and they’re just using the big tank for gasoline. I figured they were running it off the small tank because it was full and the other tank was empty I was wrong. I have a lot to learn

[@Duckhunterbow]

Typically you use the front tank and not the small rear one. There was a 3 way valve connecting the 2 tanks. The switch for it is on the center left side of the dash. Probably says O, G, F or something similar. Some folks remove the 3 way valve cause they leak or the rear tank leaks. If it’s still there you want to use the F/fuel setting to draw from the front tank. It’s a gravity system but will air lock if the sediment bowl is empty and everything downstream is shut off. The float or float valve aren’t working right if it’s leaking past it. I have a 39 hand start B that I’ve been learning as I go on. I did the carb and mag myself and have it running pretty good now

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for all the information. I understood most of that but when I picked it up the small tank had fuel in it and the other tank was empty and they were able to start it so I just assumed that it was running on the small tank. Now I found out that the three-way valve has been removed and there’s nothing connected to that front tank I’ve ordered a new carburetor and while I’m waiting on it I think I’m going to take off the fuel tanks and clean them out I don’t know much about these so anything you share helps

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Even the OFG lever and linkages are removed. I don’t know if I want to try to make things original and restore that stuff over time or just run it like a rat rod

[@Duckhunterbow]

@@RockhillfarmYT I wouldn't redo it all to use both tanks but I would run off the large front tank as long as its halfway clean and not leaking. Probably would do the sediment bowl, then a normal on/off ball valve, and then go to the carb from that. Check out the john deere two-cylinder club on Facebook. There's 66k members and someone on there can answer pretty much any questions you have

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I requested to join that group this morning. I haven’t checked to see if they let me in yet

[@Lilfarmrboy]

On our 52 model A all we use is 10w-30 year round. I really wouldn't use the heavier weight oil. Just my humble opinion. Also ours does have the screw cap by the clutch. That cone breather must have been on the earlier tractors.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thank you for sharing. I’m trying to learn as much as I can

[@medjoolmaker]

You planning on marvel mystery oil in oil crankcase? Or just fuel? Just started using it last year in small engines, generators, pressure washers, tractors, 2 stroke chainsaws, etc. been pretty good results. Seems to start easier and better throttle response.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I was only planning to put it in the fuel and the Lucas in the oil. I’m always open to new information though

[@medjoolmaker]

@@RockhillfarmYT I’m thinking marvel mystery in the oil might clean out 80 years of sludge and gunk…. But on the other hand it may create leaks around gaskets and everything that the old sludge/deposits formed a barrier on….

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Exactly

[@Lwparr-yg3xz]

My 42 leaked gas into the crankcase even after replacing the original sediment bowl with a new one. I ended up placing a brass shut-off valve in-line after the bowl for another layer of protection. Redid all the fuel line in steel brake line. Very worthwhile upgrade 👍🏻

[@RockhillfarmYT]

After replacing the carburetor it has been working well I did have to change the oil again after realizing what was happening

[@kenbarnes8958]

I love these old tractors but you're working on an old tractor with a white tee shirt on. Think about that.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I do stain a lot of T-shirts, but I’m not really worried about it Thanks for watching