Router BUSHINGS vs BEARINGS - What you should know

[@Original_Old_Farmer]

Videos like this are good for two reasons. First, the newbies learned something important. Second, the old farts, are reminded of something they may have forgotten. Just as a point of interest, I classify myself in the second category. Good video. You might create a video category for such gems as this.

[@Original_Old_Farmer]

@@bobt2522 Could we consider the color Jojoba for the thumbnail? It's supposed to be natural and rejuvenating.

[@cmvantagepoint89]

I’m a newbie who’s learning a lot from you. The way you explain things are very logical and clear. You are gifted. Thanks 🇵🇭

[@kimeeegngarden4887]

I'd like to echo these sentiments. I can't tell you HOW helpful all of your router videos have been. Thank you so very much for going into great detail to explain the basics. So much of what you discuss makes us safer woodworkers. Thanks a bunch :o)

[@garychadwick1240]

I think this was in response to my question. I didn’t expect a whole video as a reply! Anyway, your answer makes perfect sense. With hindsight, I don’t know why I couldn’t think of the answer myself. Thanks for passing on your experience to us less experienced enthusiasts.

[@sonupaulie1994]

I am a DIY person, not a woodworker, I am making wood speaker cabinet and learned a lot from your videos, solved problems watching them. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with world.

[@WWDtmelcher]

Thanks James! Have seen lots of videos on flush and template bits, a few on using bushings, but never comparing the pluses and minuses of the two. You should do a comprehensive series on both. It’s a huge subject that most woodworkers don’t take advantage of.

[@ridercoachdanielle3220]

You're so HELPFUL. Any time I need to go back and learn something basic that I haven't done much of before and want to know about before I start, I can pull up your stuff and get the jist of what all I need to understand before I touch a tool in 5-10 minutes, clearly presented without ums, ah's, diatribes, music and flash that I don't need, or cutaway shots of a dog I don't know or care about, no significant filler. I'm grateful for your work.

[@bradarcher5324]

You’re the best, I have watched on this subject so far. Thanks for your help.

[@fudpukker]

Illustrations are excellent James, good job...

[@jonstephenson3314]

Fifth time I've watched this video. Just got my first set of bits and a router this morning. Also picked up LOTS of "test" wood to learn on. Always love your videos.

[@chriska709]

i don't know who came to you in what dream, but you're recent videos have really been focused and on-point (i'm not saying your older videos were unorganized or rambling). or maybe they have all just been answering questions i didn't know i had. keep it up and thanks.

[@hrlembarnett]

You’re a very good teacher. Thanks!

[@stephanieray6587]

Once again you break it down beautifully, thank you so much. Out of sheer ignorance I bought pattern bits in different length, not remembering that I could raise and lower the router ;-)

[@iesusegoconfidoinvobis4309]

I had no idea about template router bushings. Thank you so much for teaching me the difference, it changes what I hope to accomplish.

[@mariushegli]

I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.

[@tylerbirchfield3741]

Really appreciate these videos, Stumpy. Great audio and flow to them. I started around a year ago and it's been tough learning the verbiage of everything.

[@GertBowker]

Excellent video and demonstrations, this has helped me tons being new to wood working.

[@raydriver7300]

What a nice way to start my day, listening to your pearls of wisdom. Tonight I will go to bed less stupid 🌞

[@mikecurtin9831]

I like the way that sentiment is phrased. Sums it up nicely.

[@HepauDK]

Any day you learn something useful, is a good day. :)

[@KEMcMillan]

Just subscribed. Great video and tutorial. As a rookie woodworker, I'm very appreciative of your efforts. It's helping me a lot. 🙂

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Thanks for sharing with us James, we appreciate your information and sharing. Fred. 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋

[@sdcofer52]

Thanks once again. I can always count on you for a clear and concise explanation.

[@chrismaughan8029]

James, I swear your vidoes are just getting better and better. Absolutley invaluable tutorials. Love them !

[@Wyman642]

Excellent video. Really learned a lot here as a newbie.

[@richragan4810]

James how do you find time to make all these great videos? Again, great information and good learning. Thank you James you're amazing!

[@jewdd1989]

This was helpful! So I’m wanting to make a mid century style vanity (I have the vanity built with bridle joints and half laps and actually installed into my bathroom but I’m missing the dividers, drawers and door) and I want to route out finger pulls in the dead center of my hickory drawers/door. Basically my glued up panel will have to be ripped to make the drawers but I want my door to appear to match the drawers without actually being ripped down. I’ll make a faux recessed line to match the drawers and I want the finger pulls to be centered and in between so basically the bottom drawer will have an upper finger pull and the upper drawer will have a bottom pull so when drawers are pushed in the two make a rectangular shape. It looks like a rectangular recess slapped in between drawers. My issue is I don’t want to route clear through my hickory drawers/door because I want the grain to be there since I’ll have plywood drawers behind plus the grain match would be amazing. My struggle is I can’t find a drawer pull bit with a top mounted bearing to follow the recessed rectangular shape after hogging out maybe 1/2” deep and my door won’t be cut through so riding the edge of the door on a router table isn’t possible since it’ll be dead center of the door. Any suggestions, I hope my issue makes sense?! I can’t find much info on this exact situation, Shara here on YT made a beautiful mid century inspired vanity with this detail but she used a jigsaw and cut clear through and then glued boards behind the cut out finger pulls to hide gaping holes and ik there’s a better way to do this for myself without cutting clear through

[@LonelyDogBarking]

Wow! My heads -‘spinning! Great info for this newbie! It’s definitely gonna be in my woodworkers top lessons list. Tnx (again)

[@55ATA3]

That information is something to use, thank you for walking us through the best use of bearings and bushings.

[@blackbeton3923]

As usual , that’s very clear and useful 🏆👏🏽

[@stephenrose9154]

Very informative and well-presented.

[@Lagunatic]

Thanks this helped me figure out what I needed!

[@toolchuck]

Climb cut, I thought that was when you had to climb onto the table to reach the couple of inches of a cut? 😜 Thanks James, another great video for new and old woodworkers. 👍 P.S. Whiteside makes great CNC bits too!

[@afpitbull60]

As a newbie, I definitely appreciate you making the process easy. Here's a newbie type question. I have a DeWALT Router (DCW600B), DeWALT Plunge Base (DNP612), and a DeWALT Router Sub Base (DNP613). What brand of template guides bushing set and inlay set would you recommend? Thanks in advance! Appreciate your help!

[@williamellis8993]

Great information for the beginner and the not so experienced woodworkers.

[@joenic4303]

Man, you must have a phD in woodworking. I'm impressed.

[@michaelmassetti4068]

Yep. Thanks for the video

[@robertbolding4182]

you can take several passes with a bushing and after its a cut out using the same template with a flush bearing cutter to finish the job

[@andresrairan7256]

My name is Andres. Want to start by saying thankyou for all your knowledge that you share! Was wondering can a burnisher be sanded or filed to is original surface?

[@sistermaide]

i really like your videos! A lot of times I already know what you are talking about, but, you know, we never know everything, and it's great that we can watch and sometimes pick up information, either in tidbits, or just see some new tool, technique, or jig, that could make a difference. So I don't comment too often, but this time I feel compelled to mention, that this time you are talking about template router bits, with reference to the bearings, etc. and made the comment that the blades are the same size as the bearing. For those that might be wondering... maybe you could verify that you are referring to TEMPLATE bits, not necessarily edge design bits. Thanks for all your wonderful information! I like watching, I like your, calm even, informational voice tones, that make it feel more, 'matter of fact'. Diane of Sistermaide

[@jimadams6159]

Very informative and clearly explained even a novice like myself could understand. Thank you.

[@nicolecrystal6765]

Thank You ! I love your channel ! Appreciate !

[@FishingforViews]

Another great video mate, been woodworking for a while but I’ve learnt so much from you over the years! Really appreciate all the videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@michebre]

Thanks so much for this video

[@AlfredBroyles]

Very informative, I’m new to the routing game & am trying to learn the various bits when it comes to template routing- I currently work in the fencing industry & template routing is essential to quality work- Can you tell me if you’ve ever seen a whiteside 24-530 bit? It has a bearing but there’s a groove on the actual bit that prevents the bearing from sliding off once in use, if you have any information it would be greatly appreciated

[@DaveFryett]

Simple question, looking for information on router bearings, don't know who else to ask. I am impressed by your woodworking, far, far more advanced than my work, in comparison I am a beginner that does simple routering once in a while. I have an old Craftsman router, decades old with a few bits, a recently bought a few Freud bits that came with bearings. On my latest project, the bearing on my relatively new Freud router bit self destructed, bearing races, everything came apart in the middle of the job and really buggered up my router project. I was able to finish by using the bearing from my old craftsman bits which looks a lot more robust than the Freud bits. My question is, are the bearings that come with bits like Freud not really suitable for routering? Should I be buying better router bearings to prevent this from happening? Do router bearings have to be replaced? Lubricated? I can't seem to find information on this subject.

[@StumpyNubs]

Inexpensive bearings can come apart on you, but it is really rare. And Freud is not a super-crappy brand, so I would chalk it up to bad luck unless it happens again, in which case I'd consider replacing the bearings or the bits.

[@DaveFryett]

Thanks for the reply, yeah I didn't think Freud was a bad brand and $50 CDN for a bit is not inexpensive. As a mechanically inclined person, the Freud bearings look less robust that my old craftsman bearings look way more sturdy, I will use them. Doesn't seem to be easy to buy just bearings, i see Lee Valley Tools sells them, I tend to avoid unknown chinese makes on the internet, could be good, could just be another disaster in waiting, it really does degrade your project.@@StumpyNubs

[@jgraham007]

I am a newbie, so please forgive my ignorance, but as I watched this video, and you warned against climb cuts, I couldn't help wonder whether anyone makes a reversible router, similar to how you can reverse a hand-held drill.

[@MCsCreations]

Yeah, I had the exact same doubt! Pretty interesting indeed! 😃 Thanks a lot, James!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@jeaninepayne9303]

Just starting to use my Ridgid palm router. Getting up the nerve to start using my full size Bosch router combo. Regarding guide bushings, what does it mean when “they” say “fits Porter Cable style sub-base plate”? Want to make sure I buy a set that will work with both my routers.

[@Erik_The_Viking]

Excellent tutorial!

[@dannyhollars1424]

Thank you as always for the information on router bits and there place in projects.

[@eross21]

ok so i have a 3d printer, and i’m gonna buy a router bushing. how do i compensate for the router bushing? do you have any vids on this?

[@samueljames9342]

Good information, thanks.

[@normanmilano973]

I just ordered the power tec ones since the miles craft 1/4" one is not accurately sized. My bit wouldn't fit through so I measured

[@j.m.castilla7150]

Great job, thanks for your videos

How do you keep the guide bushing tight. Mine keeps working loose. Thanks

[@libertarian1637]

A bearing guided bit can use bearings of different sizes than the bit, say for making rabbits; you can also get bits with bearings on both ends which makes following grain easier as you can easily flip the template and raise the bit. One big point with bushings; make sure they’re centered with the bit.

[@alans1816]

This was well put. Terminology can vary: what you call a template bit I have always heard called a pattern bit.

[@mikecurtin9831]

Me too.

[@stevehannon9979]

Love your videos always very clear. Very organized love it!!

[@Dragonuv2002]

You explained that very well, which is not exactly an easy thing to do.

[@dpmeyer4867]

thanks

[@jeffhreid]

Excellent video.

[@fakingitwithstyle]

It's not your fault, but somehow your last few videos have all come out about 2 weeks after I was researching the given topic. Fantastic video, wish I had seen it earlier!

[@watermain48]

Thanks James. That was very informative.

[@Cecil_X]

Dito on the Whiteside. Great company and great bits.

[@talltimberswoodshop7552]

Right on the money, James. Thanks for the video.

[@chipsterb4946]

Great tutorial! I had puzzled over this question because any template for a bushing bit is much more challenging to make. However, that ability to raise and lower the bit when using a bushing could be really important. For example, the control cavity in a guitar top is much too deep to route in a single pass. If you’re just doing a one-off cavity, the bushing template wouldn’t be worth the effort. OTOH if you’re going to do 10, the bearing pattern might be a lot more efficient because of the ability to route 1/8” of wood at a time, avoiding excessive heat, etc.

[@ipick4fun27]

try a solid carbide up-cut bit. You may be able to go deeper per pass (not the entire depth tho). 1/4" per pass is easy.

[@robertbamford8266]

The biggest advantage to the bushing is that I can use a “regular” bit, in any size less than the diameter of the opening. And I can replace the bit when it gets worn. You briefly mentioned the one complication with bushings: I have to calculate and account for the offset (the template or guide have to be carefully placed to achieve the intended final size). There is also the occasional issue of centering the bushing. For me, the convenience of the bearing bit makes the expense worthwhile (also reduces the number of opportunities for mistakes). Thanks for the video!

[@tladoux]

Why are your guide bushings not ripped apart? Mine always collide.

[@hassanal-mosawi4235]

Thanks for sharing those tips!

[@sreval]

Great info James.......keep em comin !!

[@johnesposito7267]

The set screw on the bearing collar dislodged damagthe biting my steel template and destroyed the bit, hence I disagree with your love for Whiteside bits

[@Guds777]

Stumpy Nubs reminds me of Gale Boetticher from Breaking Bad... :D :D :D #respect

[@paulhunt598]

A related topic that you didn't address... Molding edge bits use a bearing to guide against the edge of a straight or curved workpiece. Changing the OD dimension of this guide bearing modifies the amount of the reveal. I rely on this style of bearing guide in the router and in the router table more than any other guide function. Our regional Woodcraft store has recently discontinued their Woodcraft store brand (Woodriver) router bits and only sells Whiteside router bits comparably priced with online pricing. I generally purchase what is sold in my area. I have had some success with store brands like Woodriver and Rockler, but better success with Bosch and Porter Cable. None of these compare with the performance I get with my Freud bits. I purchased quite a few MLCS bits, because their sale pricing was so enticing. The verdict is still not in on the MLCS performance. They are too new. I got 8 profiles for the price of 3 or 4 high end bits, so I filled in some profile gaps on the cheap. I appreciate your plug for Whiteside. Is there any community input into other high end brands performance or value? Freud is a good product, but they strike me as being the router bit equivalent of Stihl to chainsaws. There may be better performance or value with lesser known high end brands.

[@faizamaze]

Thanks, very helpful!

[@richardshort4587]

Totally off topic, does glue have a shelf life. I have an unopened gallon bottle of yellow wood glue. It’s a few years old will it still be OK to use. Thanks.

[@ex-nerd]

Yes (as long as it never froze -- they can break down if they get too cold), PVA wood glue will both dry out and separate. You can't fix it if it's dried out, but if it's only separated you can throw away the dried-out skin and stir everything back up again (maybe add a bit of water if it's extra-thick). Might have to also run it through a sieve if there are chunks. I did this many times with a gallon-sized bottle of TB2 that took me a few years to get through. Store your bottles upside down for extra longevity (it reduces the surface area of glue exposed to any air that will exchange through the cap) -- works great for pretty much anything that doesn't have a perfect seal on the lid.

[@richardshort4587]

@@ex-nerd Thanks for the reply. The bottle has been sitting in my basement so it’s never got cold. The reason is I was using a gallon bottle of white PVA glue during major home renovations as it gives a little more than yellow does. With the house going through it’s cycles of expansion and contraction is the reason I chose to use the white. Consequently the yellow got forgotten about. Thanks again I’ll give it a try on some projects that won’t worry me if it fails. Cheers 🍻

[@markhedquist9597]

That was super helpful!

[@georgebrill3072]

Thanks, good video.

[@David_K_pi]

Safety Tip: Use router bits with bottom-mounted bearings when pattern cutting on your router table. In use, the bearing will be at the top. It's much safer than having a totally exposed blade spinning above your workpiece. If your fingers should slip while pushing the parts, they'll hit the bearing, not the spinning bit. A friend of mine, who used to be a professional cabinet maker, says he has seen the above-mentioned scenario a couple times and it is very, very messy. 😱

[@StumpyNubs]

Use pushblocks and your hand will be safe.

[@dennisdoherty3221]

Thank you for turning me on to Harvey. I have the Alpha 2 Hp, 36" table saw , the Ambassador 14" bands saw and the most awesome G700 dust processor. i could not be happier with them. Also, it came with a gift certificate for a few of the Bridge City do-das and I bought a few more. Last week, about a dozen or two of us won the Bridge City scratch awl. Please do something to let us know the best way to use it as woodworkers. I have no clue except for starting a hole for a taper drill.

[@ex-nerd]

I also ended up with a C14 based on his recommendations. Thought seriously about that dust collector but ended up finding a great deal on a used Mini Gorilla (from Oneida) for a fraction of the cost that will work great for my hobby-sized shop for a long time. Still pondering their lathe, but ... I really need to upgrade my table saw and I won't buy one without auto blade retraction.

[@dennisdoherty3221]

@@ex-nerd I am just the opposite, avoiding the safety feature because some of my work is boat building with green wood. Once, we were ripping 1/2 X3/4 strips of white oak for ribs and you could see the water spraying off the blade. That would have cost over a hundred dollars for a new cartridge and a new blade. It forces us to be more careful. My shop is in the basement with my wife right up stairs. I had to go with the 61db dust processor to stay married.

[@J.A.Smith2397]

Very helpful, you my boy blue!!!

[@thomasalton2804]

Have you seen the Sommerfeld dovetail jig? It uses bearing guided dovetail bits.

[@Wood_Slice]

Very informative video keep it up. Just to add bearings are nit always same as bit diameter, door template bit, rabbet bit, etc.

[@StumpyNubs]

They are if you are using a flush trim bit, which was the context in which I said they were the same diameter.

[@blackadder8925]

When using a template guide bushing, how much clearance should I allow for between the router bit and the bushing inside diameter?

[@StumpyNubs]

Enough to keep them from touching.

[@blackadder8925]

@@StumpyNubs So 1/64" between the router bit and the inside wall of the busing is OK? That works for me and the templates that I'm looking at. However, Bosch states that the difference between the router bit cutting diameter and the inside diameter of the busing should be a minimum of 1/16" (or 1/32" clearance around the bit"). If I follow the Bosch rules, I can't get the correct offset. If I get the correct offset, my clearance is too tight. I've asked another very experienced user and he said don't worry about the clearance as long as the bit doesn't touch the wall. I'm guessing a carbide bit won't bend and the spirals provide all the chip/dust clearance? I have never used a router before and am trying to make sure I don't set things up wrong before I even make my first cut.

[@StumpyNubs]

@@blackadder8925 It depends on the quality of the bit and the router itself. If you have some slight runout/wobble in the bit, you will need more clearance. If the router and bit run perfectly true, you will need virtually no clearance. Also, if it's a narrow, long bit, it may flex more and therefore require more clearance than a short, stout bit that doesn't deflect at all. There is no hard fast rule that I can give you.

[@covishen]

Is it possible to just move the bearing from the top/bottom of the bit to the bottom/top of the bit?

[@StumpyNubs]

No. Different bearings. One has to fit over the shaft.

[@jimblack6733]

Thanks James. Does anyone make router bits besides Whiteside? 😎

[@StumpyNubs]

Sure. But people are always saying "buy American!" Well, here you go :)

[@robertmecalis7030]

👍🏻👍🏻

[@ealdydar]

One key thing i think you did not hit on with bushings is the need to use a centering bit to set them up so the bit is not off set in the bushing.

[@skogsmats]

I gladly see more about the math and bushings.

[@bigjmacg]

Love your common sense or should I say rare sense. 🤣

[@mikecurtin9831]

Thumbs up to crush a troll.

[@Drebin2293]

I guess with wood you never have to worry about things like deflection or chattering since most woods are so soft when compared with steel?

[@skippylippy547]

Wow. That was complicated.

[@georgeg8856]

I think the router table feed directions are mixed up... climb cut vs push cut. you are showing the router bit turning clockwise when in the router table with the bit pointing up... From above the table the bit should be rotating counter clockwise

[@StumpyNubs]

If you are talking about the two drawings, that was not a router table. Note the bit of shaft on top of the bit. It is a handheld orientation.

[@georgeg8856]

Ok I see that now, but was sure that was a router table demo. You were also talking about router tables immediately before the diagrams so that is what I thought you were referring too

[@willboudreau1187]

"When to use BUSHINGS vs BEARINGS on a router bits" ... umm, does somebody need to get hooked on phonics here?

[@StumpyNubs]

Nitpicking typos on the internet, AND doing it in a condescending way... Wow, you're the whole package! 👏

[@royharkins7066]

Fantastic info cheers