Rover V8 3.5 Oil pump priming

[@ChrisFEJackson]

"not on my subscriber numbers" lol legend. Nice work mate thanks for sharing!

[@chrisrobinson61]

Yeah, I know. Pitiful ain't it. Still onwards and upwards. Having some fun with this engine. Just had delivery of an Engine hoist so the 2.0 will be out soon. Take care. Chris Robinson

[@andy1way]

Hi Chris. Good work on the engine. For the primingof the pump, could you also do that by taking out all the sparkplugs and turning it over on the starter?

[@chrisrobinson61]

Andy, they don't self prime in time. I would use the Priming tool. Cheers.

[@allanarmstrong4333]

Does the drill need to turn clock wise or anti clockwise.

[@chrisrobinson61]

From memory, it's the same direction as the distributor rotation. Clockwise. Take care. Chris Robinson

[@settertwo]

Pack Oil Pump with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly First , never use GREASE !

[@jamesfry8520]

Hi Chris, just watched your video, lovely stuff. I'm having trouble with my scrapheap challenge of a 74 range rover classic. Has previously been fitted with a 3.9L efi but looks like they share the same oil pump in this scenario. Hasn't ran in two years until recently after getting fuel to the engine. It runs rough and doens't like to rev up with only occasionally idling. Have checked many possibilitys already but am next onto oil pressure. Should have been higher up on the list i know, guage wasnt hooked up as it turns out and so when i wired to the oil pressure sender unit on the pump, the guage goes to max pressure on turn of key but then falls to nothing when engine is 'running'. Am i to presume i have wired it up correctly and there is no oil pressure for the hydrolic lifters which will cause the terrible running? And as far as fixing this issue, i'm thinking of just packing the oil pump gasket full of grease to hopefully create a seal. I'm guessing I'm going to need to prime that thing too so out comes that distributor too...Am I on the right tracks for all this? Cheers

[@chrisrobinson61]

Firstly you must get Oil pressure. The Oil pump does not self prime. You can buy the tool to fit down the Distributor hole. Just make sure when you remove the Distributor, the engine is at TDC for number one cylinder. Check this by taking the Rocker cover off. With this off you will see Oil coming out of the Rocker shaft. It also sounds like the oil pressure gauge sender wire and the oil pressure light have been mixed-up. Check online which is which. What fuel delivery system are you using. EFi or carbs?

[@jamesfry8520]

@@chrisrobinson61 yes oil pressure is a must, the oil in it looks good from the dipstick so thats something. Yes I understand that, although won't turning the engine over with spark plugs out do the same thing (have seen this done by someone else and worked fine). Smart to take the rocker covers off anyway however just to have a look, I will need to do some research on how to go about adjusting tappets when it has hydrolic lifters, they're a first for me. Yes that would make sense with the oil pressure light, do you know where is the oil pressure guage sender supposed to be located as the internet has not been much use so far for me. Am rocking the EFI system which ive been swearing 'at' not 'by' haha but thiking that might all change if that wasn't the reason why its not running correct. Cheers

[@chrisrobinson61]

@@jamesfry8520 Church House Classics on KZbin is a good place to start understanding the Rover V8

[@jamesfry8520]

@@chrisrobinson61 Legend. I have been working under Steve Ogg for a while now if you know of him (largly known locally for anything land rover). cheers

[@settertwo]

Only use Vaseline Petroleum Jelly and Definitely not GREASE to pack oil pump !

[@ljuberzy]

do you think this procedure is necessary if the engine hasn't been started for a couple of years? No faith in those electric transducers. Thinking of bringing up an oil line from that outlet next to the oil filter and fitting a T-connector to attach a proper oil dial gauge in addition to the electric sensor.

[@chrisrobinson61]

That's a good idea. You'll then see the oil pressure light go out on the dash and have a visible indication that there is actually pressure on the gauge. Take care. Chris Robinson

[@iankidd6500]

Nice work Chris, as the distributor I think goes anticlockwise I take it you had the drill turning the pump the same way, not sure if it matters as obviously the oil got up there eventually. Any further problems with the DVLA ref the change in engine? They are being very pedantic lately and I hear of some terrible situations where guys are made to go through an IVA test and then end up with Q plates. At the very least you lose your historic MOT exemption and maybe road tax exemption too! Good luck.

[@chrisrobinson61]

Ian, cheers for your comments. I had a traul through the Interweb to look for the direction of rotation. I believe it is Clockwise although I could be wrong. I contacted DVLA this morning and all they were requesting was a headed piece of paper with the engine number and the cubic capacity. Rimmer Brothers are on it. Cheers, take care and keep watching. The 2 Litre will be out soon. Chris Robinson

[@iankidd6500]

@@chrisrobinson61 I've double checked and you are correct, the Rover dizzy goes clockwise, I was confused with the Triumph engines TR3,4,5,6 & 7 etc! which all go anti clockwise or counter clockwise as the Americans say. Anyway glad you are getting sorted with DVLA, our Triumph club have heard a story of one poor guy who has spent thousands restoring his Triumph Stag. The Stag has two LD numbers on the body under the bonnet, a body number for factory use, to track that shell for paint and trim etc, this gets over painted when sprayed and right next to it another LD number which is added after paint so is not painted and this is the VIN number. Because he stripped the shell to restore it thus removing all paint, when re-registering it he accidently gave the DVLA the factory body ID number instead of the official VIN number and they then classed his car as void (as they could not match it up to any records) they gave mandatory instructions that it could never to be put back on the road, he was told the only way he could recover his money was to part it out but the shell must be crushed!!! Maybe this is unique to Stags but they did become part of BL so you never know, take care guys if you are restoring cars from the ground up.

[@RAW555R]

any tips on how to remove the distributor? I've undone the clamp on mine and it rotates but there is no movement at all allowing me to draw it out. I'm registering zero oil press after a long lay up and wanted to try this procedure to prime the pump/system again. Thanks.

[@chrisrobinson61]

It'll be stuck on the Oil seal on the dizzy shaft. Make sue she's at Top Dead Centre at cylinder No.1. Both valves closed, you'll have to take the left hand (N/S) valve cover off. Give the Dizzy a gentle tap upwards on the body and she will come away. Let me know how you get on. Chris Robinson.

[@RAW555R]

@@chrisrobinson61 thanks for the reply I'll give that a try.

[@RAW555R]

@@chrisrobinson61 thanks for the tip managed to get dizzy out with gentle levering with small claw hammer while pulling it. Going to try spinning the oil pump, clockwise and see what happens. Cheers.

[@RAW555R]

@@chrisrobinson61 Hi Chris, I've managed to get oil flowing in the rocker gear and the drill is clearly up against some resistance, the oil light goes out straight away but still the gauge needle doesn't move. Do you know if any possible issues with the oil pressure transmitter? Is there anything you can do with the wiring to see if it's the gauge or sender that might have an issue? Thanks in advance

[@chrisrobinson61]

@@RAW555R It sounds very like the Oil pressure transducer is not working. You can buy a cheap setup on eBay. From memory I believe the Rover fitting is 1/2"NPT and all the gauges now are 1/4"NPT. You can buy an adaptor on eBay from Torque. Their fittings are brilliant. Let me know how you get on.

[@zackkohler511]

m8 ... know where i may find a a good tvr 5.0 v8 crankshaft kit online at reasonable cost?

[@chrisrobinson61]

Contact RPi Engineering.

[@ABC-wz2db]

Is the rocker shaft oiled through lifters and push rods? Thanks!

[@chrisrobinson61]

No. The Rocker shaft is lubricated via the Rocker shaft support brackets. If I remember, theses 2 on each shaft fed by holes drilled in the Cylinder heads. Cheers and take care. Chris Robinson

[@ABC-wz2db]

@@chrisrobinson61 Pulled rocker shafts tonight and spun up the oil pump. Plenty of oil to front rocker support arm but not the rear hole on both heads. Starting to think they only flow from the front holes. Thx

[@lukast.9519]

@@ABC-wz2db Just did an engine rebuild and can confirm this. On the block there is only one hole for each cylinder head. The second one on head end up on block blindly.