RV Roof replacement on 2014 Sabre 5th Wheel

Please understand that these are not DIY videos, also we shy away from giving advice because we do not know what materials each person is working with. We do not sale any products, nor do we provide quotes on social media, if you are looking for a quote please email us at [e-mail].

[@jonno212]

I wish we had people like you in the UK. I've got an American RV and UK motorhome companies just ain't the same

[@RVROOFINSTALL]

Well if Biden becomes president I may be headed your way....lol.

[@user-bx4ik3bv1m]

these guys are great. will do the job perfectly well

[@richcat3198]

Thanks Joe you covered what I asked

[@RVROOFINSTALL]

We fabricate the supports. They have a rubber sole.

[@daggoman4]

Can you show how the heat weld procedure works

[@RVROOFINSTALL]

There is a heat welding video in our channel.

[@professionaltinkerer]

Just an FYI... I noticed you said stainless screws going into the aluminum frame... Thats a bad mix, the stainless and aluminum do not react well together (galvanic corrosion) and the aluminum will corrode away causing the screws to loosen... again, just an FYI

[@RVROOFINSTALL]

Yes...I know dissimilar metals do not react well together period. We have adhesive in the threads hopefully that will discourage or resist the galvanic action. We load the back of the gutter rail with adhesive caulk. There's no way to use aluminum screws...any recommendations?

[@r32rtb]

What kind of A/C feet are used and how do they not vibrate/rub through the membrane?

[@RVROOFINSTALL]

Sorry for the late reply...the AC feet have a rubber pad in the bottom. They stay in place and the stands don't bounce around. Thanks for watching!

[@idealist4life]

So, the roof itself, doesn't have any metal on it when you are done. You always skip the part where you put the TPO layer on, and from looking at the whole still here for the roof vent...it looks like the TPO has been glued directly on the wood boards. I have an old '86 Yellowstone Camino (30 ft) that still has it's metal roof on it. It certainly has layers of calk, roof rubber, or whatever they tried around all the vents, etc. I have found two main leaks in the back, one around a roof vent that ir also broken and needs fully replaced...and also one where some idiot drove some huge screws into the upper rear side to reinforce the main awning bar. They drove these big wood screws all the way through the inside paneling even, and then did not even attempt to calk or sela that area in any way. I have never done this kind of repair before and started off by ripping off the inside paneling to see what kind of frame damage I was looking at. Now, watching this, I wonder if it would have been better to wait for some warm and dry weather and to instead take the rear meal covering off to reapir it from the outside instead. I am also wondering if there are actual advantages to having a wooden roof like this, versus the original metal one. Right now, I am planning to keep the metal roof and then covering it with one large roll of the commercial TPO. I still need to start scraping all those layers of sealant off to be able to examine the condition of the metal roof...and to see if I can create the right tilt(s) in the roof by raising some of the wooden roof support beams in different areas that I need to work on anyway. I am sure I got ripped off when I bought this, but the one great thing about having to gut some areas of used camper is that I have now given myself permission to modify cabinets and some other interier things that I wanted to do...but kept telling myself NOT to mess up how pretty it WAS. lol

[@RVROOFINSTALL]

I think you misinterpreted the awning screws through wall...that's factory. They did that in purpose for coat hangers.... LoL! Metal oil cans...much like an old fashion oil can that you push the bottom to squirt the oil. The bubble or buckle is called oil canning. That is where some of the leak issue are stemming from. Yes the roof is glued to the wood roof deck. I don't know the structure of your coach roof assembly, but it is either a basic truss with batton insulation , or it's plyfoam. If there is polystyrene white foam then it's Plyfoam. Plyfoam is strong if glued well. It you have simple trusses, you can create a better camber or slope, so as long as things will line up in the front and rear. I'd you track the road if new trusses keep in mind there are a bunch of wires you need to cut and rewire back. You'll need to keep track of who's who so things work properly. Thanks for watching!

[@MrFreshness]

What is the name of the insert trim that you use on your roof repairs? I want it for mine.

[@RVROOFINSTALL]

You can only get it in white it's XD 946-1W. Thanks for watching.