Sage is back with Focal K2 Power M Bronco cars we have heard

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[@speedpros]

Sage is a beast installer and that truck is great

[@bbfoto7248]

@Five Star Car Stereo Dean, what microphone did you use for this video and sound demo? You said it was New and should be better quality now. It was definitely nice to not have the midbass and bass oversaturate and distort the iPhone mic. 👍 🙂 But even when listening with good headphones (HiFiman HE1000 V2 Stealth), it still sounded a bit diffuse and "flat" with no distinct soundstage or imaging. We obvously don't know which Tuning Preset Sage had it set on, and if it was the Driver's Seat Tune, or a "2 Seat" Tune. But if it was the Driver's Seat Preset, shouldn't you have placed the microphone at the driver's seat headrest? In the video it looks like at least the camera is centered above the center console arm rest. Was the microphone in the same position? Just curious. Thanks! I also felt a bit bad for Focal and Mosconi that you were doing the video right in front of the huge *ALPINE STATUS* display booth prominently in the shot. 😊 I use the Focal Utopia M components in one of my installs along with the Gladen/Mosconi DSP 8-to-12 Aerospace in another vehicle with the Aerospace 20 tweeters (but other midrange & midbass). All of them are amazing and I couldn't be happier, so I'm somewhat of a fanboi. 😊 Thanks again. I'm liking these Broncos more and more.

[@scottsymons6152]

Looking at a new 2-door Bronco Wildtrak with the B&O sound system. Always wanted to do an seriously upgraded sound system. Just never had. Would love to change it over to Focals or Morels but...keep it in the stock locations because of running with the top and doors off during the summer months here in Indiana. Your opinion and thoughts on that.

[@djrez2107]

Would have been nice if he gave us some feedback on how they sounded?

[@bbfoto7248]

@djrez2107 TBF, what are Dean or Sage going to say...that they suck...or "sound great"? There's realistically no amount or combination of words that anyone can say to explain "exactly how they sound", because it's all relative and subjective. 90% of what you hear and "how good they sound" is going to be affected by how well the system is tuned. You could have the Alpine STATUS F # 1 or Focal Utopias, but if this system is tuned (and installed) better than yours, it will "sound better"...or vice versus. I'm sure that it sounds "great", but unfortunately this recording doesn't capture exactly what it actually sounds like in the vehicle (IMO)... They could both say, "the midbass impact is killer, the midrange is pure and lifelike, and the detail and separation of the tweeters is sublime"...but relative to WHAT...my grandma's car??? 😊 We just don't know unless we hear it for ourselves in real life. Quality-wise, this line of components sits between their K2 Power series and Utopia M series. But ultimately, the quality of the install and TUNING will determine the outcome.

[@leroyking3058]

Hello can you help me out with finding the location of the factory amp on a 2012 dodge charger..it's not under the dash driver side or nor its it the trunk left side...

[@freddydavila9031]

Hey five star, Ive been watching for a long time and I love the videos. Ive been looking at getting a 3 way setup of the new Focal k2 power Ms for front stage and the regular k2s for rear stage. what amps and dsp would be the best to run for all 8 speakers/ what dsp for all 8 plus sub(10ch). I find it a tad confusing to find an amp that will run 120w to a pair 80w to another 25w for another and 80w for rear fill. can i just get a 8x125w and turn down the outputs that need less watts. Please let me know. this will be an investment for me so give me subjections for the best amps in your opinion.

[@daveroski]

Caffeine Dean......N...Groggy...Sage

[@aaronbarlow7701]

I just purchased a 3-way set of the K2M to install in my 2023 GMC Sierra. Given that there are airbags behind the A-Pillars, the shop wants to put both the mid-range and tweeter in the dash pointing up. With a good tune, is this a good alternative?

[@Oldnobrand]

FS on the Tweeter .... wow

[@bbfoto7248]

Well, as Sage said...it's designed more like a "wideband" or midrange with high frequency capability. And it's quite large.

[@RobKhat007]

Aren't the two Masconi 5|30 amps "too much" power for those Focal 3-ways?

[@bugman72]

One word...headroom

[@daveroski]

@@bugman72 TWSS!

[@RobKhat007]

@@daveroski 😂

[@unklemal]

Hi... just came here on an unrelated topic.. im building a complete Kicker system.. i just purchased a brand new Kicker Front Row DSP.. to control 3 kicker cxa amps.. all from the factory radio.. i also have 47keyloc.. and the 46kisload4 which would be better for the Front Row.. 4 tweeters.. 4 mids.. 1 12trtpt downfiring sub.

[@vcjester]

Have you talked Sage into singing Chocolate Rain, or say, "I am your father.."?

[@Pete.across.the.street]

Hey bird

[@gonzoe123]

When have doors ever been better than kicks? Doors rattle, flex, and are more off axis. Kicks are solid, and more on axis. That is why people do kick builds.

[@drrckhamilton]

Do you actually think that they did "regular" door pods? Knowing his work ethic, even though he didn't build it personally, it is probably so overbuilt that we can't imagine the level of work that went into this.

[@gonzoe123]

@@drrckhamilton even a door enclosures are inferior. That is why I removed my enclosures. The problem is he said he did it to get better midbass response. That is complete BS.

[@drrckhamilton]

@@gonzoe123 Are you a professional installer?

[@drrckhamilton]

@@gonzoe123 Hello?

[@bbfoto7248]

​@drrckhamilton In 90% of vehicles, the OEM door locations (no matter if the speakers are put in custom enclosures, or how well the doors are treated with acoustic damping materials) will create multipal severe Cancellation Nulls (dips in frequency response) simply due to their facing each other combined with the Physical Distance Between The Doors, as well as the distance from each door to the center transmission hump or console. This will also create peaks as well, but those PEAKS can be EQ'd quite easily. Those distances between the doors, and to the center transmission hump or gearshift console, are the similar wavelengths (or are 1/2- or 1/4-wavelengths) of frequencies in the midbass region. So the wavelengths at those frequencies come out of the door speaker, then hit the center console, and some of those sound waves are reflected straight back to the same door speaker, which causes a cancellation null at that frequency. Usually at least one of those large cancellation nulls lands within 65Hz-85Hz, which is right in the typical Crossover Region between the Midwoofers or Midbass Drivers and the Subwoofer(s). ¡NO BUENO! You always want the Frequency Response and Phase within the Crossover region to be as smooth and coherent as possible or the two separate drivers will not blend smoothly and be perceived as one source. A Null in this area makes that impossible. And the secondary door to center console cancellation null usually lands in the 120Hz-200Hz area, which again is problematic because it will cause you to localize those frequencies down to Just Coming From One of the side door speakers, so it no longer appears above the dash in front of you with the rest of the frequencies in the phantom soundstage. You can't "fill" or smooth out the frequency response where a cancellation null occurs. If you try to boost it with EQ, you'll just be sending more power, energy, and excursion to the drivers as they continue to "fight" each other and cancel out at those frequencies. This is why everyone always says to only primarily use EQ Cuts, and to only Boost the EQ just a little bit, and only when necessary. The solution to these Cancellation Nulls is to physically MOVE the midbass drivers to another location where either the distances between them is different, or where they receive additional "cabin gain" and boost from "boundary-loading" which helps to fill in those nulls. "Boundary Loading" is what happens when you place your left & right home bookshelf or any speakers closer into a corner with the two walls close behind them. This reinforces and boosts their midbass & bass response significantly in the room without having to use EQ or add more power. Placing the vehicle's midbass or midwoofer drivers in the kickpanel area helps to achieve this same thing, in the same way as putting the home bookshelf speakers into the Left & Right corners of your room. The kick panel speaker locations also might create too much boost in other frequency areas, but will help to fill in and/or or push those nulls to a different region where they aren't in the middle of a crossover region (bad), or where they can be EQ'd and are not as noticeable. And any of those midbass areas that received too much reinforcement and boost by placing them in the kickpanels can be easily cut and smoothed out with your EQ. This actually makes the drivers and system overall more efficient, and it will get louder with less power! The kickpanel speaker locations will also result in more Equal Pathlengths from each Left & Right side speaker to your listening position. More equal pathlengths nearly always results in more even levels and smoother frequency response, and less time alignment correction being needed, which can affect phase as well. Professional installer and DSP Tuner Peter Steinbacher from the *PSsound* KZbin channel demonstrates all of this in his "Doors vs. Kickpanel Midbass" video by showing you the in-car acoustic measurements if you want to search for it. Mercedes' upper tier models have started to place their midbass drivers or midwoofers out of the doors and into the kickpanel or front footwell/firewall area just for this reason.

[@michaelculhane7227]

No amps? No subs? What's up?

[@bbfoto7248]

IIRC, they posted a previous video last year that showed all of that, and Sage said there were no changes with any of those, so they obviously skipped it in this video. 😐

[@mbray10]

Here is the full build Sage is talking about kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIDSn6aweLuFmbMsi=LN3UWk5pI701TrUY