Snap-On Bow Cushion DIY

[@adrianpolley9419]

Why am I watching this at 3.30 in the morning ? LOL. Great work, , thanks for posting. 👍

[@SailriteDIY]

Glad you watched it. Grab a cup of coffee for some energy.

[@johnettebeaver1991]

I know it is an additional step but it ends up eliminating a lot of issues and makes it much easier for those who are beginners as well as gives even us who are professionals a beautiful finished product. I also top stitch all roll and pleat with the seam allowance facing down onto the side banding. It rolls the edge down just enough so that water rolls off the cushion and doesn’t sit and absorb through the stitches into the foam. Take your time with top stitching and it’s pays to use a top stitch foot for beautiful even top stitching.

[@marccawley761]

Hella impressive, great work. Can tell you’ve been doing this forever by all the little tips and tricks. I don’t think I’ll be attempting this myself anytime soon but it’s always entertaining watching a master of their craft.

[@SailriteDIY]

Thank you for your kind words! I'm glad you find the content entertaining.

[@PapaStitch]

I'm so happy you posted this today. I'm doing the same job this weekend and it'll be the first time for me. Thank you for sharing.

[@SailriteDIY]

You are welcome! I hope your project goes very well.

[@sjammie2004]

Nice work, thanx😊

[@SailriteDIY]

We appreciate your kind comment.

[@johnettebeaver1991]

Roll & Pleat vinyl will grow in length as you sew it. The rolls are fluff when cut but when you sew across them they flatten out, hence the length of the top plate will actually become longer. I sew a 1/4” basting stitch along ALL edges prior to adding side bands and double check the length and width with my pattern and bottom plate which is usually just flat vinyl or Phifertex/Textaline adjusting it on both ends if need be so that the center line doesn’t change. THEN I notch the rest of the the cover. I also use staples on long patterns to control growth and keeping top and bottom plate and side banding completely matched together. It is an easy way to keep from ending up with a twisted cover that never lays flat. Always remove all staple when cover is finished! Never leave them as they can cut the vinyl or snag fabric and canvas.

[@ZhTuR]

Thank you!

[@SailriteDIY]

You are welcome!

[@johnettebeaver1991]

Make your bottom piece out of Textaline and it will drain water and prevent mold much better than a small section of venting at the bottom of the cushion.

[@johnettebeaver1991]

You should be laying your pattern out flat and using more weights to keep it from wrinkling….I personally use tyvek house wrap to pattern my jobs. It is expensive but the pro’s really outweigh the cost. It can be reused for smaller items until it is all used. I can sew zippers onto it and place snaps etc on it . I can pattern and fit in one visit instead of multiple

[@Letizia4813]

I watched a couple of your videos for cushions/bolsters and you use the channeling material. Why do you use channeling material, is there a functional purpose for the channels or is it purely aesthetics?

[@SailriteDIY]

No function, just aesthetics.

[@johnettebeaver1991]

The reason he had extra side banding was because the roll & pleat grew when he sewed it onto the banding, hence the very reason why I baste stitch the entire top roll & pleat plate 1/4” prior to sewing to the side banding on and then laying it on top on the flat bottom plate and original pattern, adjusting the length BEFORE sewing the cushion together. Especially on a long cushion you will have problems such as that. But it makes for a better job all around to take that extra step to eliminate those problems.