Samsung pn50a530 no picture. Can this one be fixed?

[@almurzyn3263]

You explain how you troubleshoot and eventually repair aa somewhat complicated unit so well that someone like me who has recently taken an interest in repairing TVs and other electronic items. With your presentations showing step by step what to look for and how to resolve the issue I now am not afraid to tackle and enjoy electronic repairs. Although I have always been mechanically inclined electronic like this had always been beyond my scope within my mind! So far I have one successful LED but I am now working on a plasma set which appears to be a little more complicated. Now I can continue to watch and learn from your videos and hopefully be successful! I just want to thank you for taking the time and effort in making these so very informative and helpful videos.

[@cts6479]

Great video, good to show the full process in tracking down a problem where it's not obvious. As a former CRT TV tech but no experience with flat panels this was helpful, have a Samsung PN59D530 that the picture was shutting off, sometimes right away, other times would play a while before shutting off, repaired definite bad and many poor solder connections on the Power Supply board, so far so good.

[@Gfunkbus76]

I've got the same set... gone over the power supply... Now I'm going to move onwards through the YSus/Main and Xmain... then maybe the control board... Curious! Anymore issues for you?

[@jwl9286]

My oh my! You never seem to give up. Your outlook throughout is that you will find and solve. Then the lamp to reflow flow the solder is simply amazing! Never thought it would get hot enough or that the chips could endure the heat. Some of the comments are funny too. Thanks again.

[@12voltvids]

It actually takes a long time to reflow using a light bulb. I left it on the board for close to an hour per chip, but it does work in many cases.

[@nigelwilliams5156]

This guy is a top man..learning tv repair myself i watch and learn from him a lot...thanks for your time...

[@docfoot316]

Enjoyed watching , never repaired TV's myself but i certainly learnt a lot watch you fault find and repair , Well done.

[@jamesconway5221]

Hi 12volt vids, I love your detailed and the information you give on fixing TV's it's a pity you no longer work on them, for me I find your the best I watched, I just in the past few years started fixing them, I did have a different email address, I understand if you are not making enough with TV's why you woould stop repairing them but for me it's a pity as you do make great videos anyway thanks for taking the time to make them.

[@keithcoltron3171]

When I get my 'round tuit' for Christmas I'll have a look at my faulty Panasonic Plasma, very informative and interesting, need lots Vids like this one, thank you

[@Darryl603]

Nice job! I've used a $20.00 heat gun to re flow several graphics chips on laptops and haven't had any problems. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to your next project.

[@rogerd4559]

that is a valuable tip, Ive heard of others bringing computer graphics cards back to life with that heating method

[@frankscarano4708]

VS-on is controlled by the logic board. The power supplies under normal conditions wont stay powered up without a drive load. It will normally come up and drop slowly when there is either no sustain drive or no load. Your situation is different. Easiest method is checking when you power it up to see if the voltage initially ramps up the slowly comes down if it doesnt do that and there is no short thats definitely a PS issue. Also these PS were known for cold solder connections on the FETs and transistors mounted to the heatsinks.. Caps on the newer models after 2008 were not commonly known for cap issues especially on the HV side.. cap issues were known for the 2200 and 3300 mfd 6.3-25V moreso. Samsung had a class action suit for this back 5 or so years ago that affected

[@coojoezak]

The moment with the lamp desoldering is my favorite :). Thx for video. I'll wait a long time for some video with amplifiers/receivers.

[@12voltvids]

I don't work on electronics full time. I do it as they come in for repair. At this moment I have nothing to service but that can change in a moment. I have had a couple of enquires lately but so far the stuff hasn't come in.

[@nyambemundopu1168]

I've learnt a lot from your troubleshooting. It's always said that "learning is a continuous process". Indeed we"re learning from your experience. By the way, can't you come up with a block diagram of the same TV and try to explain the whole system how it operates?

[@mickeygovender]

If it works.Who cares what anyone thinks but it will make life easier mate,more accurate.Just saying about the heatgun thing.Not having a go or anything. I like your videos and i think you are doing an amazing service to the public.Keep it up.

[@nicnak4475]

Excellent video and all very impressive ! My Samsung 55incher first lost it's picture and then the sound and then a large "POP" ! So after watching your video I know exactly what to do ! ................. Buy a new set ! :o) Really enjoyed watching you fix that one though with your excellent skill and knowledge.

[@josephfiumara9065]

Wow ! What a awesome video! i have a samsung plasma that was given to me by my neighbor turns on with pic for about 15 min then sound just stays on . I'm going to take a look and try to attempt something . Thanks for sharing

[@davidlegault9745]

Took some work but another TV saved from the landfill. Great job. Regards, Dave (heat gun haters probably think you should have an expensive hot air station. Heat is heat as long as you are careful)

[@12voltvids]

David Legault That what I say. Heat is heat. An air station is more controlled heat and if I was doing this for a living things would be different, however when I was doing this for a living air stations cost upwards of 5000 and my boss was a cheap prick as far as buying equipment went. I was a commission paid employee so he figured I should buy my own tools. On the other hand it was his store so my opinion was he should provide the tools and test equipment as I was just an employee. So I had to learn to use more basic equipment and got quite good at it.

[@jaywalt1311]

These cold solder joints are caused by the leadfree solder they use. It is much more brittle then leaded solder. I use a cheap $50 hot air rework station which is a bit safer because you can set the temperature. Good video. I need to work on a 50" sony but no room in my shop currently and i have no equipment at my dads place =(.

[@hansawr]

Hello! First thank you for all your videos. I don’t know if you will read this but I will give it a try, I also noticed that the video is 2 years old but I’ll take my chances. A neighbor recently gave me a faulty 60-inch plasma TV, the exact model is PN60F5300AFXZA, when you plug the power cord the stand by red led comes on, and when trying to power on the tv it will blink a few times and nothing else happens, no sound, no nothing on the screen. I took the back cover off to check if I was able to find any visible indicator of a bad capacitor or any signs of a damaged component. Nothing visibly damaged. I tried troubleshooting it by unplugging the cable that goes from the power board to the X Board (Right side of the tv) and to my surprise when you try to power on the TV this time you hear the power on tune, a sound! but no image and the TV goes back to standby mode. Voltage in the PS-on is correct and also in the Standby pin. I just want to know which board would be the culprit in order to find a replacement… Can you give me any other ideas on what to test to pin point the faulty board? The Y board gets power from the X board, so I unplugged just the Y board and no sound no picture. When the X board is unplugged, power on sound, no picture, and goes back to standby. Do you have any advice on what should I test next in order to find the faulty board? Thank you very much in advance.

[@victorvallenilla8753]

saludo desde Venezuela.. demasiado bueno maestro mi respeto para usted... he visto muchos vídeo de usted y todo los q he visto son bueno y nunca c da por vencido.... como me gustaría tener un poco de su conocimiento.. cuide ce q dios lo bendiga y lo proteja para q pueda seguir en su labor q muy bien q la hace... saludos maestro de los maestros

[@walker55able]

Really fascinating. I was interested in lamp jig technique and i have had some lamps arrive today. Thank you

[@Marv9590]

Great video as always. Thanks very much for putting the time and effort into these video's much appreciated. I have learnt a lot form you and repaired a TV in the process. Some one dump It 40" TV and I collected it and open it up. It was just some bad caps which I replaced and now it's in full working order. Just makes me wonder how many TV's are dump that may only need a simple replacement job done. Take Care and Thank You :)

[@kowaltoboggan]

Really appreciated you explaining your troubleshooting steps!

[@Nevakonaza.]

Good job,I had this issue with my LCD monitor,Replacing the board that has the HDMI port on it (dont know the name of the board) fixed it for me..i just bought an exact same model of monitor from Ebay that had a broken screen and i salvaged the insides..£30 and my monitor was fixed.

[@tyronenelson9124]

it would have been the a board, aka logic board which controls the power on sequences.

[@rogertyler3237]

Cool That's Awesome.When I Was At Target I Seen The Inside Of An Led TV & All I Seen Was 3 Boards A tuner A power Supply & A Tcon Board.

[@Tomtech29]

You are a great. A lot of work invaluable technical knowledge and experience,It gives you a hard time such defect ... I admire how you have found this breakdown :D is a saying: the most dark under streetlight :P - cleverly with the 55W bulb worth trying

[@12voltvids]

+Tomtech29 it took a long time to nail it. Many would have given up and replaced the board. I was testing it for weeks before sending it on its way.

[@orlandochidi5210]

Thanks a million for making the job exciting and easy. More grease!

[@eddiejames6528]

Thanks for the vid. You stay on the problem and find the cause. Remarkable.

[@Σταμάτης-σ3μ]

good job and a lot of patience gave the solution eventually!!!!a big bravo for this repair. how many minutes are needed to warm every chip?

[@patricknicolucci5073]

ignore the trolls love your videos learned a lot

[@krisztianszirtes5414]

4:40 (this is before watching the whole video) When I hear PSUs whistle like that it most of the time means they are powered but not under load, but that's just what I experienced, it could be wrong. And the PSU just seems to be stuck in standby. 17:58 Yay! Stuck in standby! I would have gone with a wire connection problem, but that was great to learn from

[@12voltvids]

+Krisztián Szirtes correct the 57 volt supply was powered but until the 207 powers up none of the sustain circuits are putting any load on it. It was a strange one. Sure I could have changed the logic board but what would be the fun in doing that.

[@americanrebel413]

Very nice video, very informative. You make it easy to learn. Thank you.

[@tharkthax3960]

Very informative video. Always enjoyable 🙂 I have two large plasma TVs, of which I reflowed both sustain boards and power board where needed. The diodes and fets needed work. I did it as it was your recommendation and I'm glad you did, some of the cracks were nasty. Question: at night after TV turned off, the TV makes loud crack type noises after a while. Is that due to the different materials used as you mentioned as they cool? Thanks.

[@donnellbryant4793]

Hey 12voltvids, thanks for this video, it solidified my suspicions about the Logic board. I feel I will be heating my logic board soon. I found a blown fuse on the power board and replaced it. I'm going home soon to see if it worked, but before the lose of power, the tv would go dark (out) and the sound would continue, so I'm going to get a heat gun just in case the power returns and the picture still isn't shown. I'm still watching your video so you might have already answered these questions, but I have two questions for you about the fix. 1. How long did you heat each chip for? 2. What is the liquid coming from the chips? This is just pure curiosity.

[@richardlyd7450]

I used to work for Samsung service center...and had this fault rarely..but mostly the panel (screen)..would be faulty and blow the diodes (square chips) on the PCB joined to sustain boards.. good fault finding!

[@brandonpetrilla1731]

Depending on the cost, replacing the board would probably be a better option, The board itself can’t cost more then the actual set itself, Heating a reflowing solder usually is a temporary fix that doesn’t last, but at least the problem is isolated and known which board the fault is on if it returns

[@12voltvids]

Watching that tv now. 5 years later.

[@oswaldfraser4946]

Great work hope that you could continue

[@Sloxx701]

The only problem I've had trying to reflow BGAs is that it could be an issue with the solder joints (that lead free solder they use), or sometimes it's a fault that's internal in the chip itself. The heat fixes it usually either way, but in my experience when the fault is internal then the fix is only temporary. Usually I've had it last a from a few days to a few months until it comes back with the same problem only the next time the heat doesn't work and I just end up replacing the board. Excellent video though.

[@12voltvids]

+Dacke Yes the chip failure is what I think was the case with many of the Xbox fixes. So far I have had pretty good luck, but as I say I don't do it for paying customers, just my own stuff.

[@THEtechknight]

+12voltvids I never had much luck reflowing xboxes. Seems replacing the GPU BGA with a new one. when I say "new" god only knows. But replacing them would last even less time. It was nuts. I ended up giving up that xbox fiasco.

[@Bluethunderboom]

I used to have a problem with my Coby LEDTV1926 where it had a start-up problem, and it's the solder is cracked inside the BNC Chipset tells me that I got to re-flow the BNC Chipset that way I can get my 19" LED TV to work again. It starts up okay but needs to be reflow the BNC that way I won't have any problem. Not only that, I use as a work monitor to use the screen whenever I got to test some certain consoles to make sure that it works and I also use them as a camera monitor by filming at the table when I was repairing electronics.

[@Watcher3223]

Your repair vids really do kick @$$. Don't let the naysayers say otherwise. And, hey, if the fix works... Of course, the risk with a heat gun is somebody using it while not knowing what they're really doing. I don't think you have that problem of not knowing what you're doing, so those throwing all those "daggers" at you should keep them put away.

[@12voltvids]

+Watcher3223 The heat gun, or halogen lamp on the chip could possibly damage the chip or board for sure. Too much heat could scorch the board. However I don't have a bga rework station, and I am not going to be buying one any time soon, nor is anyone considering a repair of a board watching my channel. So I consider the board to already be a write off, and using the techniques and procedures I use is considered a last ditch effort to save the board before I go out and look for a replacement. Even replacing a board is no guarantee that this will fix it.I have footage in the can of a Tcon board that was bad, and a replacement was sourced, and when it was plugged in, it was totally dead, so now not only do I have a dead TV, but I also have money into a replacement board that came with the ebay warranty. I haven't published that video, because the set wasn't repairable.

[@Watcher3223]

12voltvids Like I said; you know what you're doing. Part of what makes that obvious is knowing what you're talking about; it's obvious you know the risks you're taking by reworking with an IR lamp or a heat gun. You also take precautions to help mitigate those risks. And, you also do not take such risks unnecessarily, such as doing this only on a component that you know would be trashed anyway, so there wasn't much to lose (but a lot to gain). As for what had happened with the TV set where a replacement of a known bad TCON board didn't resolve the problem, I'm sure you merely chalked it up to this: sometimes you get the bear and sometimes the bear gets you. As you know, that does happen. Sometimes, there is equipment that's simply beyond reason for saving by costing far more than it's worth to fix it.

[@12voltvids]

+Watcher3223 that's the case with most Lcd sets. Especially the new ones. So much is integrated on the glass. I don't mind plasma TV, but prefer to work on older 2 channel audio gear such as amps, receivers, tape decks etc. People are more willing to repair these than LCD TV. Plasma especially. Some dump them but a plasma buff will spend money on them because they can't buy them new anymore.

[@kirknelson156]

neat trick using the light to reflow :)

[@rogerd4559]

yes! impressive, but do you think a heat gun could do the same?

[@bobc3895]

I find probing the suspect board with a Qtip stick to see if there is a intermittent connection can find the problem area. I like your method using a bulb to reflow solder.

[@frankreiserm.s.8039]

I thought that you are not supposed to place PCBs on a carpet, such as SMD logic boards, because of electrostatic damage. This is important to me because I can only fix TVs on my living room carpet where the cable for the TV to check it comes in. I don't have TV connections in my electronics shop. How long and at what distance should I use a hot air gun? Frank

[@int53185]

I had a set similar to this one. I unplugged the y-sustain board and the "heartbeat" on the main board went back to normal. I just replaced the board with a $15 ebay special and it powered right up. I could see the heartbeat on this set was beating too fast. I believe it is supposed to beat once every other second in normal operation.

[@12voltvids]

+James Last once a second is normal. Steady on or off or show is bad. In this case the problem was on the digital board.

[@archp2008]

I have a PN50A530S2FXZC. I have little or no electronic experience. For the past few weeks it has been clicking on and off when I try to start it. Is it a coincidence that when I set the input to something other than tv before turning it off the clicking is less when I turn it on the next day, and I don't see green screens or hear any noise? What do you think are the odds of this same scenario happening to me regarding needing to use a heat lamp/heat gun? I had been hoping it would be just a simple replacement of capacitors. Do you recommend blowing a hair dryer inside the top vents to get the tv started if that works?

[@MDFRESCUER]

Good video. When you reflow the ICs, how long do you heat them with the lamp? For example the smaller one.

[@12voltvids]

+MDF RESCUER they were cooked for a good 5 minutes untill I could see the Flux was smoking good. It was actually hit an miss. I did the small ones first and still had no power. It was after I did them all with the heat gun that the set worked. So it was probably one of the big ones. Can't say which is was the cause as I did them all at once.

[@zx8401ztv]

Well done :-D, i think those bga chips need real heatsinks to keep cooler, we keep seeing surface mount chips with bad solder ball connections, they have to be getting too hot in use.

[@Watcher3223]

+zx8401ztv I think the problem is less about the heat these things operate at and more about the fact that lead-free solder doesn't have the ductility that leaded solder does, so the lead free BGA joints tend to fail prematurely given enough thermal expansion and contraction cycles. That is but a guess, though.

[@12voltvids]

+zx8401ztv Yup heat is a problem for sure.

[@zx8401ztv]

+Watcher3223 Well lead free solder has to be a factor, so i would agree. i still think its a crap method to connect a chip to a pcb, but im biased as i dont really like smd parts, im just a stick in the mud LOL :-)

[@zx8401ztv]

+12voltvids Its like ive said to frends, heat = death to electronics, one way or another. When ive made old linear psus i tended to go overboard with the parts, large surface area transistors on large heatsinks, they never failed :-) My old mate used to laugh at my methods, but supplys i built in 1990 are still working, even switchmodes would have died lol.

[@12voltvids]

+zx8401ztv Lead free is a major cause of failure

[@6756jose]

Good job your explanations are very clear

[@Eeropolvasti]

Good Job! What do you know, if you knew it, only thing you needed here, was a heatgun, and few minutes reflowing !!=) Very interesting, good to know! How long you heated those bigger chips?? Thanks, youtheman =)

[@siavasharash5448]

Very nice teacher here we have

[@dominicmckeown1]

Really nice video - thanks for posting!

[@ivannadeau5250]

very knowledgeable, thank you for your info

[@tomgt007sugden]

Another brilliant brilliant video.

[@patrickoconnell3896]

Nice video. What was boiling out from under the chip?

[@12voltvids]

+Patrick O'Connell Liquid solder Flux.

[@patrickoconnell3896]

+12voltvids Look at what the computer did do my name, always a problem.

[@jorge195501]

12 v thank you for the video, what size resistor is good for test check in the power board ? .Maybe es good idea use the logic test in those IC , Thank you kindly .

[@DarkAngeltbify]

life saver you are, thanks very much for your video

[@rogerd4559]

Im surprised with all the spare parts you have, you dont solder a couple test connectors up with those pull up/pull down vsr and psr resistors so all you would have to do is plug them into the connectors on the PSU board instead of messing with the solder joints on the connector

[@12voltvids]

I don't do enough TV repairs to justify making up any jigs, plus every set uses different connectors.

[@jel135]

I left the tv on to get it hot the vs is 10.5 va is 1 to 3 so it not powering up the resisters you used to power it up where they around 370 ohm I,m really getting in to this tv repair I lost 1 leg and know it,s looking bad for the other I,ve allways stayed busy maybe you can give me some direction on how to learn electronics Thanks John

[@jel135]

Great vid my power board is shut down 0 vs and 0 va when its cold I can get some sound and 10 v on vs only the green heartbeat light is not working I put in a new power board before I watched your vid now I ,m thinking lodgic could you tell me were the power comes from on the light I,ve done alot of testing when I hear from you I,l go over it with you Thanks John

[@12voltvids]

Yes it was the logic bard on this one. Cold solder on one of the chips, as after reflowing with heat gun it fires right up, and is currently working fine.

[@astcomjakecw]

I found a PN50A630 at the dumpster in my appartment complex. Not a scratch on it. Took it inside and had a look. It would click on and off, and had a steady stand by light, but backlight or pic came on. On the back of the power board, behind one of the relays, a leg had broken off the pad. It wouldnt solder because the pad itself had seperated from the PCB. I used a paperclip because i didnt have any solid thick gauge wire, and bridged it to the solder strip down the line from the relay. It now turns on with no problems. There is a wierd whine sound that changes pitch when you turn the TV off, and continues for about 5 seconds. So something appears to be holding voltage. I checked the capcitiors and MOSFETS and I dont see anything unusual. Not sure whats making the sound. I mean i know its the power board but i cant find the component.

[@jayperez3431]

hey i have an old Panasonic TH-42PWD4 with a similar issue to this. the display is amazing but recently its started not turning on, if I let it sit for some time and cycle the power again it will start and work just fine until its been turned off again to rest for some time. seems like a capacitor issue. I really love this old set and want to fix it. the picture quality on these old 720p plasma is hands down the best for retro gaming too.

[@12voltvids]

Check the screws on all the boards. They work loose over time and lose the ground.

[@jayperez3431]

@@12voltvids I will do that and also clean out all the dust. its never been serviced since manufacture. ill let you know how it goes my friend.

[@jayperez3431]

@@12voltvids I tighten all the grounds but no difference. I checked all the caps and visually they looking fine. This thing is a beast inside though and a lot going on, significantly more than a consumer model. Next step is to record the number of flashes to try and narrow the problem down I guess.

[@jayperez3431]

@@12voltvids I should mention that at first it would only take maybe 10 minutes of being on before the screen would get power but the problem seems to be progressing to the point it could be an hour or longer. I don't know if these symptoms help narrow the problem down but thought it would be good to mention.

[@rusam689]

Hi , Thank you for the video. Trying to troubleshoot the same model power board. have help me save time...

[@otoniel780]

thanks for this videos Mr

[@tyronenelson9124]

That board in the middle that connects to all the other boards with the two bga chips on it, does not control the power on voltages but it can shut down the hv plasma part of the psu board if the y-sus, z sus and x-drive boards report any faults which is indicated by those two leds.

[@12voltvids]

It certainly does control the power board. It generates all timing signals and controls discharge on the panel. It also monitors health of system and if any if the circuits are not operating will turn off high voltage. It also will not turn on high voltages until everything is reported as good at power on.

[@tyronenelson9124]

@@12voltvids Yes but does the logic board, a board not turn the power on to this control board first?

[@12voltvids]

@@tyronenelson9124 A board is the remote control, so it signals the control board that the set wants power. Control board commands power supply for low voltages which initialize the ss, and sc boards which start communication with control. Then control board turns on high voltage all while monitoring for an sos condition. Sos monitors for under voltage, over voltage and over current. If and sos condition is detected in the panel drive the control board will command the power supply off and send an sos to the A board. Both the A board and control board are responsible for power control. This also changed many times as the next model year saw the control board incorporated into the main A board.

[@carloso6305]

Hello , good video. In what value are the resistors and two point source are put to work ?. Thank you.

[@12voltvids]

+Carlos O The resistors used as pull down / up really are not that important. 100-200 ohms will be fine. I believe I mentioned what I used, or you can just look at the color codes.

[@carloso6305]

Hello. Then connects ( ps on) to ground the two connectors ? Thank you.

[@12voltvids]

+Carlos O Yes the PS on go to ground (cold ground) and the VS on gets pulled up to the 5v line.

[@rogerd4559]

i asked and he replied that they are not critical... anywhere from 470 to 1k is fine

[@CrisisNCO1971]

Question for you. I have a 2010 Samsung Plasma (PN60E5550) - no pic not sound. The little LED light on the power board is NOT flashing. Thoughts?

[@keithking1985]

thats some very good knowledge. thank you..

[@TheCondoInRedondo]

What was it that was bubbling? Was a gel flux added (offscreen) before the heat lamp was applied?

[@12voltvids]

Liquid Rosin flux added under the chip to aid in reflow done off camera to keep the trolls from saying I was using the wrong flux.

[@TheCondoInRedondo]

@@12voltvids Thanks so much for such a prompt reply. When I first saw the bubbling, I thought maybe you had pretreated/cleaned the area with isopropyl and there was still some remaining. But the way it kept bubbling for such a long time.... that could not have been alcohol. Gotta tell you. Switching supplies are damned intimidating to a retired digital engineer. But thanks to your channel, I'm slowly getting up the courage. Using a Sencore 57 for isolation, of course!

[@mydrunkennighit4635]

Hi can you tell me what y buffer board will interchange with a insignia ns-PDS50 plasma tv made in 2007

[@jel135]

Well Sir after many of your vids my power board is up and running there was a fuse out of course it didn,t look like a fuse but I repaired it and everything worked sound remote no picture thanks to your vids I,ve learned alot I,ve traced it down to a short in the vs side on the y board if I go between 5 or 6 which is the vs and go to a ground on the plug it busses so know I need to locate the short its a insignia ns51p680a12 51 in plasma it,s a tb764ba114q1yt-ba1 [764b] I,ve pulled the caps and they checked ok Please help me thru this short on the y board and please let me know what my best route is to learn this repair end I really need something to learn my wrenching days are over I guess going back and forth on a email dosn,t work if it does let me know Thank you John

[@jel135]

Please give me a reply I need to find the short John

[@GeorgePapadopoulos11]

How many ohms are the resistors?I have the same power supply ,i can take all the voltages but not the VS (200v).I check the control board and it's working fine, i can measure the 3 volts for the VS ON command.Any thought's about the problem?

[@Golden_unicorn]

Hi Mr 12V, I have a samsung PN42C450B1D That won't power on, it clicks 3 times and the logic board shows a light...but then it shuts off. if I disconnect the power lead coming from the power supply it will turn on and stay on....but no picture. could you give me an idea of what could be wrong? Thank you in Advance!

[@derekblake9385]

Clever guy 👌

[@gordonbrace2173]

Good work!

[@karlkirven8174]

How long did you leave that light baking on those chips?

[@12voltvids]

About an hour.

[@karlkirven8174]

12voltvids Hi again and thanks for you videos , Have this exact same problem and TV , I did exactly what you did in the video and put the board back in the set l do have my VS 205 and my VA 57 and 3 vote set is coming on but , I it’s still coming on and shutting back off again in a few seconds should I repeat the process again or just replace the main board if I can find one ? Ohh by the way did you put flex around those smaller chips you used with the lamp I saw them bubbling up the ones here didn’t do that ?

[@cheewt]

May I ask is the VA and VS voltages DC or AC voltage?

[@rusam689]

HI, I am looking for some expert guidance. When i watched your video I thought I can fix this TV easily. At the moment, I have replaced all components from a Repair kit. I am getting the standby light on the small board. But no VS or VA. and the logic 5.3 is missing too. Can you please help. I am determined not to give up. Thank you.

[@Tomtech29]

I have at home defective power module from Samsung model: PSA421 and I am trying to fix it ,I began by locating faults firmly blown 5A fuse indicates a high short-circuit current - around one transformer Vishay Fast diode got short, causing burn holes in the laminate. I removed the damaged item and by trial and error looking away , still wondering how to wake up from standby? I use temporarily separated transformer to 120 Volt as caution not hurt, still the question remains whether this converter will work at such low voltage 120V? /230V normal. - Inspired by your method of fitting a resistor for drawing the high state +5V. I searched the terminal Vs on / It does not occur in this model of 2002.06.05. Ver 3.0 I have terminals Marked: -SX/(where is the reference point) VS -SY/(where is the reference point) VE -Speaker -Buffer -SL LOGICSA/(where is the reference point) +5SB so it goes: +5VSB GND GND +5V(D) -? -? -? GND GND (A) V12 V12 +6V +9V I tried the + 5SB pull up resistor to + 5V (D), but it still did not work relay would you have any idea what I should do?

[@verbatimdk]

what was that "hardware" you used to heat and reflow the chips. can you post a link to that "item"

[@12voltvids]

It's a special piece of hardware. Very hard to find these days. It's call an incandescent light bulb. In this case a halogen lamp.

[@verbatimdk]

@@12voltvids okay do you think a hot air station with the correct nozzles are better to use or do you think you "tool" is better. It dosent seem that you can change the temperture on your device, unless it gives you the same heat all the time and not too much heat on the board

[@12voltvids]

@@verbatimdk what a stupid question. You stupid? Of course an air station is better. I don't have one and I am not interested in getting one because I am not in the business. I don't do this for a living. I do this as a hobby and to demonstrate that this work can be done without speciality tools. If I was in the business I would have banks of test gear like Carlson and would charge accordingly to justify the investment. I work with minimal tools that the average joe had on hand to demonstrate that it can be done.

[@gusilago]

Hi! I have a samsung plasma tv PS64F8505ST (the last plasma of their high end tv models/ 2013 European model) I would apreciatie the help from you about my issue. Last year i replaced the Y-susboard due to no picture. This time my tv turns of about after 30-90 minutes. Everything just shuts of, even the led light. Cant turn on the tv with my remote even after i replugg the cord to the outlet. I thought the problem sat at the X-sus board. I tried switching to another x-sus board but the tv wont even turn on or show any picture. The power board starts to "clicking" instead so i unplugged the x-sus board from the powersupply and the "clicking" sound went away. When i switched back the old x-sus board it worked fine without any clicking sound from the powersupply but the tv starts to turn of again after 30-90 minutes. I had the powersupply get a light inspection (just looking after any visible faults) but the guy said that he didnt se any problem with the board. What do you reccomend me to do next? Best regards

[@12voltvids]

Check for software updates. Obviously when you put in the new x main board and it didn't turn on that x main is bad. You could have an xmain problem or a power supply problem. Many times software updates fix strange problems.

[@gusilago]

@@12voltvids i unplugged everything from the powersupply but left only the board that comunicate with the controller to turn on the tv. And nothing happened, so i think its the powersupply that is the issue. I have onother question. I can se the that a screw is missing on the powersupply. Can this harm it in anyway?

[@fododude]

Wait ... what? What was the liquid bubbling out of those ICUs? Re-flow?

[@12voltvids]

Solder flux under the chip.

[@fododude]

Wow.

[@anathijusticecubu9577]

Great. Tutorials and sunsui plasma model no .: LCT32SD have no picture

[@Sivim]

big like , keep up the good work

[@otoniel780]

nice video I have 2 questions i hope you answer me I have a plasma tv sasung s50fh-yb06 has sound but no image check the voltages when turning on the VS-208 volts instantly low to 35 volts and the VA-59 instantly drops to 3.5 volts ) Next question I have a samsung plasma tv when I turn on the tv burning fuse and the thermistor sck206 thank you sir

[@juansosa2939]

hola pudiste corregir ese problema tengo uno conese problema como el tuyo

[@kavajamusic5411]

Do it worth the repair for that lcd old tv?

[@frankscarano4708]

These samsung sets dont have screw grounding problems like the panasonics do. Just wanted to reference. Interesting that the Canada models End in C I am used to sets ending in A for US models.. otherwise i believe its the same.

[@12voltvids]

They most certainly do have the ground screw problem that causes several ports on the X main board to pop. I have a video up that documents it, and the ground screw is pitted just like it. HarryC brought me his Samsung plasma to fix, and that was the problem. They may not have the same high failure rate as Panasonic, but they do have the same issue, and ShopJimmy has the repair kit for it. I have only seen 1 Samsung, and a few Panasonic's, including one of mine. I don't do much work on TVs though. My work is mostly vintage audio. That is where the money is as far as repairs go.

[@frankscarano4708]

12voltvids how about that... haven't really seen that on Samsung sets.. I recall some of the older models had a bulletin for buzzing due to the board screws loosening but never had failures from that.. I know the Panasonic had big issues causing mostly 8x blink codes and they issued a screw kit to improve the screw staying tight...

[@frankscarano4708]

Reach out to me for any info... work for authorized provider and have access to gspn. Have extensive experience with their sets all the way up to the current K series models

[@12voltvids]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaKZZZp6odJsq6M At the 3:57 point. Arcing evident on grounding tab,

[@frankscarano4708]

12voltvids to me that's not arcing... that's just the screw marks from metal to metal... Samsung had a bulletin on those sets for excessive x main failures due to logic board timing drive errors. Those sets per samsung required a firmware update that added logic re programming once the new x main is replaced. Was very documented... if it is arcing it could be verified if the ground tabs are not tied with any of the other or ground from the connector to the ps. Panasonics however had independent grounds which was a huge problem on many of their sets...

[@peshmadscientist1833]

Careful, i tried reflowing with a halogen lamp and the stupid ic started to float way from its place.

[@jogog9204]

Sir I have same model 5054 Samsung and my problem is blank picture but I have audio, also If one Y buffers are bad will the whole screen blank out or just partial screen and do heat sinks of Y main and Y buffer run cold even when you can read voltage in Y main and Y buffer, cause these are my conditions

[@preetbajwa2320]

What can be done if no power exists at all i.e the ring around the Samsung does not light up? is it something that can be easily fixed? I have exactly the same model of the tv.

[@12voltvids]

+Preet Bajwa Check for missing standby voltage.If the standby power supply is not working the set will never try to turn on.

[@preetbajwa2320]

+12voltvids Thank you for the prompt reply, i am new at this and a total rookie. Could you kindly guide me on how to check for the standby voltage?

[@12voltvids]

+Preet Bajwa If you watch around 13:38 mark I am showing the standby.At 13:46 when I apply power that green standby light should be on. If not the standby circuit is directly below that. The small transformer is just below the little module with the green light. Could be a capacitor in that circuit, or the diode, or the drive IC. Hard to say without looking. But if the standby 5.3 isn't there the set isn't going to work.

[@preetbajwa2320]

+12voltvids, alright i can see that, the light is not working/on.Cani on myself get the diode/capacitor or drive IC changed? thanks again for all your help

[@12voltvids]

+Preet Bajwa First check the diode on the secondary side of the transformer for short. Check the ESR on the capacitor, or just change it.Should be a pretty simple fix.

[@AxellTh]

Have an old kdl 32s4000 working fine but transformers are buzzing. Bought new psb but still buzzing. So thought some smps buzz.

[@swetuna]

You are a wizard :)

[@shaun9107]

Thumbs up for that one .

[@benmeuninck7410]

this heat gun repair work on video chip on video control board lcd tv that miss colored the lcd screen ? if so i'll try it

[@maxim25o2]

Long time ago I try do it this same with different chip, with heat gun, what happened, was that chip sink down and all solder goes in to one big mess.

[@Soulreaper480]

I have a led TV smart 3D model 55 LM 6200 well sound and backlight picture have vertical line but no pictures

[@robinsattahip2376]

Sad they've reached the point that even a competent professional is left guessing about the cause.

[@Iam_Omoro]

I have a Tv Panasonic Tx-L50BL65 model standby light blinking continuous without stopping but if try to power it on main switch botton the green light blinks but Tv not on . How can I fix this?

[@michaeljohnson616]

have a Samsung plasma TV 51 inch I have found but no picture can you tell me what's going on

[@12voltvids]

What is the status lights on the control board doing?

[@obieewon]

very educational

[@rogerd4559]

sounds like that set is ready for the scrap pile

[@12voltvids]

Actually it still works.

[@mknmike]

Just pulled my ~2008 pn50a400c2dxza (that needed sound board replaced under warranty) out of the garage where it sat for maybe 2 years into my basement to use at a basement desk. I was using it via HDMA for like an hour until I pulled forward a bit while cleaning it off, and the screen went black with a backlight. No picture, but there's clearly light back there. HDMI sound was working which is the only way I can tell what source I am "viewing". Anybody want this TV to repair? It's only 720p. So I guess off to the recycling center it will go.

[@charlesmiller5078]

Can you just imagine how many sets are in land fills because of a small problem, We are killing ourselves.