Liquid Cooled Whoosh Rocket

[@integza]

I had a vortexgasm watching this video

[@TheFloatingSheep]

don't vortex in your pants Integza

[@tabeebrahman4843]

That is such a wierd thing to say, pls stop

[@themonsterintheattic]

Seeing you in the comments gives me the same feeling as finding my name spelt right on a mug In a gift shop

[@madeintexas3d442]

Great recommendation. Thanks.

[@qg786]

Integza you should do more tomato skits in your videos!

[@CNGboyevil]

I was led here by such channels as integza and dollar store thor. When I saw you taping a plastic bottle, I knew that I hadn't been misled.

[@Sciencish]

Is Dollar Store Thor = Kyle Hill or am I unaware of some science you tuber out there?

[@CNGboyevil]

@@Sciencish yup!

[@LawfulGreen]

Have you thought about a double-walled chamber? A bottle in a bottle, with the fuel circulating between them to cool the inner chamber. Either way, this is super interesting and I can't wait to see what you do with it!

[@sebbes333]

Or some kind of balloon on the outside of the bottle & pressure in fuel between them, it is probably easier to fit them inside each others in that way. Good idea :)

[@misterx-pf6nl]

There is a guy on youtube making rockets engines with this idea but the issue is to have a regular and even flow (otherwise you will have hot spots which lead to failure or just unefficient cooling). For me, the best way to do so is to make spirals of fuel tubing around the combustion chamber and the nozzle. But in this case it would be easier and more efficient (in therm of cooling) to make a smaller rocket engine in my opinion. Of course doing it with metal instead of plastic would be still better, a good exemple is Integza.

[@jonathandill3557]

@@misterx-pf6nl I was watching something recently where they were showing how the liquid rockets circulate the fuel around the bell to prevent hot spots while vaporizing the fuel, maybe Veritasium on 3D printed rockets.

[@yland6003]

I thought of that too!

[@b.6603]

If using water doesn't count as cheating, circulating water between the chamber would be my way to go.

[@StarkRG]

I wonder if you kept the incoming coolant/fuel separated from the outgoing exhaust for longer by extending the cap further into the bottle neck if there wouldn't be quite so much fuel being expelled, and therefore more fuel cooling the bottle. if you went far enough into the bottle then it could double as a fuel reservoir when you invert it.

[@Sinnistering]

I love these rocket videos so much. I dunno what it is about rockets that makes my little brain light up with joy, but seeing that flame front travel down the bottle always gets me. It might not be feasible, but an external water film could help with cooling. The biggest issue would be getting it to actually film up, but cleaning the exterior of the bottle thoroughly and adding a wetting agent should help. As for how you'd deliver the water, I guess the same sort of spinny thing, but that's designed for the exterior.

[@finnsuchara1992]

Maybe dry ice could be added to the IPA through a reservoir to make thermal conductivity of the bottle's walls less of an issues.

[@iancrone2906]

That idea is surprisingly genius! Something like that would solve many issues. However, if the flames of the combustion chamber make contact with the bottle, it'd still melt, I think.

[@oscar8005]

My science teacher has 9.5 fingers because of woosh bottles. Glad to see you are being safe about them

[@merlinmagnus873]

That venturi effect at the top is definitely causing the failure reversing the flow of the cooling film back up and out. How about submerging the bottle in water up to the neck. you would have to deal with bouncy but that would dissipate all the heat and any unforeseen fires would be instantly snuffed.

[@johnathandolencic4360]

It might still deform from the inside though with the flame directly on the unprotected plastic unless your meaning using both the film cooling on the inside with the water bath on the outside then it might decrease most of the deformations

[@merlinmagnus873]

@@johnathandolencic4360 Water has a very high heat capacity, you'd be surprised. Fun party trick, add some water to a balloon and blow it up. hold a lighter under the balloon where the water is. It won't pop. The water can absorb the heat so fast, the surface of the balloon won't melt. I would expect the same phenomenon to happen with the bottle.

[@SmashToBits]

@@merlinmagnus873 Or, same kind of experiment, boil water in a plasic cup on a fire. Its seems pretty magical seeing it in person.

[@kersgames6382]

Damn, your previous video helped us to get a "good" on a project on our university of applied science, but this one would be good enough for a complete gradiate internship. These video's are the diamonds on yt for mechanical engineering 😁

[@pixelated2877]

You're* 🤓

[@AzarelHoward]

I love how you run straight towards danger in the name of science. It's a no wonder integza made a post about this video. You're in good company.

[@beefkake5]

Nice! That was a fun expansion of the woosh rockets, and I’m excited to see you flip it upside down in the future for a potentially longer burn time. Great video as always!

[@lan5205]

I just discovered this channel a few days ago and now I'm enjoying the rocket science contents

[@macmaniac77]

Fantastic work! Super inspiring, I spent a little time on whoosh rockets too. Turning your rocket upsidedown, and having the coolant flow the same direction as the exhaust is definitely going to help. I imagine the problem is preventing too much fuel from being lost in the exhaust flow. You could 3D print a collar inside the bottle throat which collects and recycles the non vaporized film coolant back around the loop. Almost a reverse of your existing system. Totally looking forward to seeing your progress!!

[@AlessioSangalli]

Thanks for the link to the "smarter every day" channel, it's cool you help them out getting some exposure!

[@Sciencish]

Gotta help the little guys ya know

[@mitobi]

Love the way you are thinkering about problems...

[@IcemanJD08]

What if you went lower on the air pressure rather than higher? I really think that is killing your way of cooling because it is just throwing the majority of your cooling out the nozzle

[@shlushe1050]

And increase fuel flow so itll have a thicker film

[@goth-ihop]

Yeah, I would think that a higher reliability would be more important than a higher thrust. once you have reliability and non-melting down for multiple seconds, that's when i'd move to higher thrust.

[@sausagefingers714]

how amount a smaller inner bottle too? to provide some sort of cooling sleeve

[@holemajora598]

Awesome video definitely looking forward to more. I think printing a new nozzle with an extended tube inside the neck of the bottles so that the pressurized flow’s exit path is further away from the path of the isopropyl alcohol. Minimize the interaction between high velocity flow and the walls being cooled. The tricky bit would be making the tube as thin walled as possible to minimize throat restriction.

[@bjarnivalur6330]

Two things come to mind, 1. Put aquarium pumps in series or parallel to increase flow and/or pressure depending on needs. 2. Look for the most common points of failure on the bottle (by the video it seems to be where the curve on the neck is sharpest and the sides closest to the air inlet) and add additional fuel-spiny-inlet-thingys to compensate. sorry for bad English

[@aronbraswell1589]

try an air diffuser that spins so that the flame doesn't get time to heat one place unevenly. if done in a specific way you may get a flame tornado effect in the bottle

[@fishermansfriend6726]

"I'll Try Spinning, That's a Good Trick!" ~Anakin Skywalker

[@aryaksathye]

First of all, great video! It’s really informative! A quick suggestion: Real rocket nozzles often tend to circulate the fuel on the outer wall of the nozzles. You could cut a pipe in half and wrap it around the bottle so that the open half faces the bottle and the closed half faces the outside. Circulating fuel through this pipe would then help cool the walls of the bottle. You could then circulate the pipe back to the base of the bottle to reuse the fuel. PS: Cooling the fuel would also help!

[@finnsuchara1992]

Liquid butane + IPA cooling would be really cool. Also would eliminate the need for a pump. Probably just a little bit more dangerous though. Potentially an improved fuel injector could spin the fuel out towards the walls with clever 3D printed geometry, especially if it's ceramic what fancy ppl like Integsa use. Ceramic could make it go more faster and melt less which could be cool.

[@martindinner3621]

Not all liquid fuel rockets are cryogenic. RP1 (kerosene) is kept quite close to ambient temperature.

[@aryaksathye]

@@martindinner3621 Oh! Thanks a lot for the correction!

[@1GLO919]

WOW! I was always wondering how to make the woosh rockets burn longer and you did it! I am really impressed and fascinated, I hope you will continue this series and maybe add a parts diagram for the rocket because I really want to build one! Thank you for this great video!

[@mrandersen6872]

That hawk screeching was the coolest part of the video... nature beats engineering every day.

[@SmashToBits]

kind of an insulting comment tbh...

[@wtechboy18]

I think what might help with your air injection issue is if you watch TechIngredients' video on hybrid nozzles, you should basically get a fogger nozzle to distribute the air smoothly around the whole inside of the bottle. More evenly diffuse airflow would help prevent airflow "hotspots" on the sides of the bottle that would cause dry-out conditions. As a bonus, the metal fogger nozzles won't catch fire like your saran wrap does lol. As far as inverting the bottle, you could probably take advantage of the 5 little stumpy nubs on the bottom of the bottle and put 5 little pintle injectors in them to flood the sides of the bottle with alcohol. You'd have a huge excess of fuel coming out the nozzle that way, but you might be able to take advantage of your swirly injector nozzle thing to inject more air to try and take advantage of that.

[@connorbuckley7644]

Such amazing content. Last pick to KZbin famous. Love it!

[@iancrone2906]

Your hella cool videos really help me out, so I hope this comment helps ya back. So, you want to continue these rockets, and you want to work on something mechanical? Try thinking about what parts of a rocket engine depend on mechanics. Better yet, something experimental or something weird and irrelevant that use mechanics! -What setting would change how the rocket behaves? If the rocket is moving in a normal or abnormal way, what does it do to the rocket? -Are there better ways to ignite this rocket? -What else can you spin? (spinning makes everything work better) -Is there a way you can apply this cooling system to where doesn't depend on where gravity is? All great experiments that I'd love to try. Think mechanical, lol.

[@Fahnder99]

Amazing how much you can do with (comparedly) simple methods !

[@ibeauf]

It kind of looked like the direction of input of the diffused air was pointing at the side and that may have caused the damage to the side of the bottle

[@nickldominator]

Awesome video! Quick idea I had that may help is to switch over to a gear or diaphragm pump. Those kind of pumps actually self-prime and produce quite substantial amounts of pressure. That may improve the issue with the reverse flow from the back pressure inside the combustion chamber. you can find small gear or diaphragm pumps on eBay for about $20 which can produce ~110PSI (or more) on the output with decent flow, too. they are commonly used for RVs showers & faucets.

[@spaceminions]

I've seen plenty of diaphragm pumps on ebay, but can you show me an example of a $20 gear pump?

[@nickldominator]

@@spaceminions Totally, key word 'small' though ;) Lookup 'ZC-A210' on eBay. Its a ~18$ small plastic gear pump. It generates (relatively) decent pressure and flow, while withstanding ~90C temps. I actually use it on a water-cooled 26cc 4-stroke engine I converted from a weedeater. It pumps the coolant through the engine & radiator to keep temps under control quite well. Hope that helps :)

[@spaceminions]

@@nickldominator Thanks, I found it. It says it can only suck about 1 meter height; do you think that sounds about right, or is that probably just the height it can self-prime?

[@nickldominator]

@@spaceminions That sounds about right for the self-priming. It could probably do a good bit more than that if it was already primed.

[@stefanoagria4972]

The return of the king

[@TheDodgyEngineer]

If you tried injecting the alcohol slightly below the neck (I know adding holes adds weaknesses but bear with me), the jet speed will be much lower at the point of entry and hopefully less alcohol would be carried out in the exhaust, giving better cooling. You'd probably have to inject it at an angle so that it spirals and wets the bottle better. Maybe add an afterburner for the exhaust as well? Anyway, another great video!

[@markopolo2172]

This is cool AF it served as a great proof of concept can't wait to see what you do with it next also good to see you telling of the danger of these angry little sods I damn near burnt half my hand playing with these bad boys when I was a kid

[@mediumsmoke7823]

Again great video! If you turn the bottle upside down you could use water as a cooling fluid. As its flowing down, it protects the walls from melting and in the end it safes the nozzle from burning of. The fuel then has to be injected. The water and the fuel have to go into the bottle at a greater pressure than the combustion pressure. Therefor you could use two resovoirs with one for water and the other one for fuel. These resovoirs are then pressurized with air. The pressure there has to be a little bit higher than the combustion pressure.

[@micahk.541]

You should put two bottles together making the rocket double walled and fill the space between the walls with alcohol to eliminate dry spots and spraying fuel out of the nozzle

[@adrianantoci1187]

Really cool video! Can't wait to see what's next!

[@Enthropical_Thunder]

I love the idea of simplyfying a rocket engine to the absolute basic principles, including the actively cooled walls. My suggestion for improving the cooling film would be a stronger pump, like PC coolant pumps with flow rates of up to 600 L/h. With a small enough ring nozzle, the alcohol should spread out more evenly and much faster. It's own inertia prevents further disruption by the combistion gases. Otherwise, the idea of turning the engine and coolant flow 180° is not to far from the cooling methodes of older rocket motors. The bigger specimens burned a fuel rich mixture on the nozzles closest to the chamber wall. This would creat a kind of isolating non flammable gas layer between the flame and the chamber wall.

[@alden1132]

For the next experiment (assuming you're going to flip the orientation of the bottle) what if you combined two bottles by cutting the bottoms off, & nesting one inside the other (bonding with glue/epoxy) , so that you have double-thickness for the body of the combustion chamber and two necks, one at the top and one at the bottom. Because of the shape, that configuration would lend itself better to the film cooling, as it's more curved, with fewer sharp angles and cavities. Just an idea.

[@ale6242]

Woah this worked way better than i thought it would! Great stuff!

[@brocklydoodle]

I recommend using carbon fiber polypropylene for your prints. I've been using that and carbon fiber PETG to build small fuel tanks for my little rocket project I've been working on. The CF polypropylene is harder to print but the layer adhesion is amazing, its very easy to make them hold pressure printing them on my prusa. I've had my CF poly tanks hold up to 400 psi with no leaks at all! CF Poly also has better temp resistance.

[@clayhudson8892]

You could try adding a CO2 inlet and button into these projects so when something goes wrong, you can quickly not only turn off fuel and oxidizer, but also extinguish any remaining combustion.

[@TheLtVoss]

Hey that approach to cooling is also done on other internal combustion engines by spraying more fuel than cann be bunned so if you use 2 oxygen supply locations one at the bottom spraying in the fuel grating a oversaturated spray that coats the walls and the pressure will pusch the alcohol along side the wall (adding a small percentage of water to the fuel could also help for the droplets to reach the walls) and a second that air supply near the throat to burn of the excess fuel because all the fuel spray is making the shock diamonds invisible

[@Ravedave5]

Keep exploring this, it's super interesting!

[@charleyedwards2121]

AAAAAAAAAWwesome man!! cant wait to see what you n integza come up with "TOGETHER"

[@MaeveWumbo]

I'm curious what would happen if you just immersed the entire bottle in a tub of water, and did a normal run of it.

[@GuyInAMountain]

Wauuu! 🔝🔝 I'm impressed how you fixed the problem with the pump. I would like to see a second video about this, looks too challenging to make it work. Nice video!

[@kasuraga]

You should put a shield around the oxygen inlet to try and mitigate the side blow outs you get. Try and direct it more towards the nozzle instead.

[@finnsuchara1992]

I realize this might be kind of a hassle but I bet if you spin the bottle (you could use some sort of a 3D printed water filled labyrinth seal or something) it might give the film a better chance of not drying up. Maybe that would also allow the engine to work in different orientations other than vertical. Great video mate, really inspiring content 👍.

[@shadow6958]

Out of boredom quite a while ago I built something similar that might be kind of a fun experiment for you! I took a 24 oz can of monster energy and threaded an air nozzle into the bottom. I cut a hole just big enough for the cap of the can to fit into at the bottom of the can on the side. I then used safety wire to hang the cap upsidedown about a half an inch below the mouthpiece on the inside of the can and put a small amount of isopropyl alcohol in it. You then ignite that small amount of isopropyl in the cap and put the compressed air to it and end up with massive flames shooting feet out the top of the can until all the isopropyl burns up.

[@ReviewThisTestThat]

Pre-shrunk the bottle with hot water to thicken the walls and put the preshrunk on inside a none shrunk bottle might help also

[@skinife]

I think you should work some kind of vortex or diffuser so the combustion doesn't go strait towards the bottle walls. Love your videos

[@shivamvaid601]

Ever thought about ceramics? You can use those ceramic coatings on the internal surface. Would need a couple dozen coats but might work. Or a simple tempered glass bottle? One of those that don't break even when smashed

[@thefoundryroom8726]

I used a model rocket engine to power a mini turbo pump. Pumped together kerosene and red fuming nitric acid; for about 3 seconds lol. I think it only made it as long as it took to spool up enough pressure to, well, disassemble itself lol. I was nowhere near it because I was pretty sure it was going to happen. Probably the coolest project I've done in years. I'll have a video up soon enough.

[@elephantwalkersmith1533]

Use a thin fabric liner for the bottle. This will act as a wick and allow transpiration cooling of the wall. If the fabric is thin enough, it will be transparent when wet, so we can still see the flame.

[@Djungelskog69]

This seems like a bomb with extra steps

[@Cognic]

If you put the entire apparatus, including the bottle, underwater, would that be enough to stop deformation of the plastic? I think the film cooling with a liquid heat sink on the other side of the chamber could make the bottles last longer!

[@theelectricwalrus]

Yup I'm enjoying it

[@gizelle-s]

What if in your nozzle you have a pool around the edge to catch the liquid (with the bottle upside down), you can angle it slightly to funnel it into the exit hole, that way the liquid that comes down the sides, flows into the little pool and the pressure in the bottle pushes the liquid into the pipe. If the wall of the pool is high enough it won't interfere with the jet stream going through the nozzle in the middle. Clever wall design should also allow you to make the pool the right shape of "air pocket" to push the jet stream towards the nozzle without slowing it to a standstill. Lemme know if this doesn't make sense.

[@makex_se]

Nozzle pointing down, double walled chamber, just my two cents, pretty much just commenting for the alogrithm cause this is FIRE and i want more of it!!!!

[@IceJoolsstuff]

Absolutely amazing, you motivated me to make my own vortex rocket engine

[@lcdvasrm]

Do you know that you can heat up a paper cup full of water with a candle below ? It won't burn. From that you should consider having the cold film on the outside of the PET. And use another material than PET. One that transfers heat better. Also, consider using SLA for the nozzle. It seems to withstand much higher temperatures (doesn't melt/deform with an iron).

[@FilterYT]

That was awesome, thanks for sharing!

[@BRUXXUS]

Sweet! Maybe you can cut the top off another bottle and bottom off another and stick the two tapered parts together so the top and bottom have a narrow section that would be easier to coat the sides with a flowing fluid? I hope that makes any sense at all.

[@Sciencish]

Have you been looking at my notebook?

[@BRUXXUS]

@@Sciencish Maybe a little bird…. Err…. Hawk gave me the idea.

[@mariuszhoscilo9895]

Preheat bottom of bottle or full to shrink it. That will make wall stronger and increase thickness of alcohol on walls. As well if you move air inlet much lower you can in easy way increase time as part of heat will be dispersed by alcohol on bottom of bottle.

[@-Tris-]

Have you tried water on the outside? Or do you think the plastic insulates too much? Maybe you can find a clear glass bottle which can handle pressure. If you just want to test nozzles take some sort of steel pressure tank.

[@sawer]

You deserve a happy algorythm :)

[@gagedougherty6348]

New to channel, new to rockets, and only half way through video. BUT Could you coat the inside of the bottle with something quickly, easily, and redoable enough to make repeating the process easy in the future. Like melt candle wax and pour it in while spinning the bottle or something similar? Random thought with no idea if it would even work or if it would just make the bottles too heavy for lift

[@alexnain2344]

Yess Finally ,upload again !!!

[@alphadog6970]

To me it looks like you need a better nozzle for the air outlet. The pressure is high even with that metal mesh and it was creating dry spot and rupturing the bottle on the same line.

[@catgirl__4013]

I would take out the vortex flow put a lip on the fule intake so it’s harder for exaust to inter and lower the oxidizer pipe so most of the eaxust goes up not out and down

[@NManZioN]

You can boil water in a plastic or even paper over a fire. And the paper or plastic will not melt/burn. So if you put the bottle in water, it should work the same way, and keep the bottle's form

[@ethanmye-rs]

Perhaps swirling the fuel down the bottle would help ensure even film coverage?

[@ericlotze7724]

Would chilling the Alcohol (probably via ice / ice+salt )or something more costly and exotic like dry ice) make it cool more and last longer before evaporation?

[@typha]

it seems like the hot spots that are popping your bottles are mostly at the same height as the air tube... that could totally change when you turn it upside down... but in this configuration maybe the ring around that section could be protected by a ring of aluminum foil or something just sitting in the reservoir.

[@bartekburmistrz8679]

have you tried increasing the amount of fuel coming into the bottle, and decreasing the amount of air ? It also looks like the bottle takes the biggest hit during ignition you could try making a big pressure bypass valve that you could turn of manually. I'm super excited to see how long you could keep combustion going inside of a plastic bottle

[@caffeinefederation339]

this channel is going places

[@adamith360]

I noticed that once combustion was stable, the outward flow of gasses pushed the fuel out the nozzle (as you mentioned) you mentioned that that was because of the constriction causing the acceleration in the fluids. What would happen if you introduced the fluids at the bottom somehow. Would the speed of rushing gasses still be able to carry the fuel up? Same principle except using air friction not gravity to move the film along the bottle. If not, would there be a bottle geometry where this could work? Maybe an earlinmeyer (no idea) flask?

[@DRUKENHOBO]

my suggestion would be to take a page from nasa and use tubing coiled around the outside. if you can get it right you can use the cooling coil to heat your iso to its vaporization point then inject it into your combustion chamber for optimal combustion. if you want to continue with your current version then lower the psi of the air to the point where you are no longer loosing fuel, remember that the forces of gasses leaving will need to be accounted for.

[@OperationDarkside]

I just had an idea: A water rocket, but the pressure is provided by combustion exhaust. This would reduce the need for a heavy tank to hold pressured air.

[@jonathandill3557]

Try adding a wetting agent like docusate sodium to the isopropanol to see if you get an even better film. A cheap source would be store brand laxative gel caps containing this ingredient. I'm not sure if this will make it work better or worse. Fabric softener or simethicone from anti-gas gel caps would be other surfactants to try, or a tiny amount dish soap, but not enough to cause problems with foaming. You could also try small amounts of different salts to give the flame color making it even more visible on camera or boric acid from roach killer for a green color.

[@mitalikoley5113]

have u tried using aerosol gel on the circumference of the inside part of the bottle (Acting as a insulation from the combustion ) which might even sustain the environment for a longer period of combustion. I mean aerosol coated bottles. Hope u get my point.

[@baraBober]

Ok, here's a low tech tip that just might work. Attach a garden hose to your rocket, so the water cools it from the outside. Not sure if you know, but you can boil water in a bottle/plastic container in an open fire.

[@adamith360]

What if you have the liquid film flowing down the outside of the bottle. That way the fast flowing exhaust gasses don't interfere with the flow of fuel. You could test the idea by just submerging the bottle in a bucket of water and launch it and see what happens. Not vortex cooling I know, but it might work

[@maverick9708]

loved everything here, especially the hawks :)

[@cweagans]

What if you move the air diffuser down so that it's submerged in the fuel that's pooling at the bottom? You can probably get away with a relatively cheap check valve to prevent fuel backflow into your air line + the air that flows through the pool of fuel may cause the fuel to splatter the wall a bit. Maybe the added liquid that the air is carrying might help to prevent dryout?

[@neogator26]

I'm thinking the issue is you are not getting a laminar flow from your cooling stream. This is likely due to the inconsistent surface caused by 3D printing is likely causing coolant gaps that caused the burnouts. I would suggest trying the same STL on a resin printer and see if you can get a whole 4 seconds of life expectancy. lol One day after I finish school I'd like to start a channel similar to Destin's. I am actually finishing my BS in aerospace engineering at the same school he is pursuing his Ph.D. Our lives took very different paths as we are fairly close in age.

[@laaity]

I have an idea You should ad a thing that is like a petico pipe at the nozel to prevent the top from heat exposure

[@AlexA-qx9pn]

try lining it with silicone spray too. Even better if you can find something that's transparent but not in infrared.

[@joshuapeterson2084]

These videos are seriously very cool. Could you be persuaded to put your prints on thingyverse?

[@typowykowalski8004]

Can't wait next part 😁

[@tiagotiagot]

What if you aim both the fuel and air downwards at an angle close to the walls, forcing them to spiral down the walls until they hit the bottom, and then come back up thru the center of the bottle, with the centrifugal force hopefully keeping enough of a pressure gradient to keep the hotter flame in the middle all the way up to the neck of the bottle and out the nozzle?

[@tankg9797]

Try inserting air with vortex formation so air swirl and stays in the middle.

[@AirsoftAbominations]

the issue seems to primarily be the blasting of all of your propellant out the nozzle, I dont think air pressure is your friend here. one option would be to have an inner shield that will protect the fuel inlets from the high velocity flow, thats drawing and spraying your fuel out the nozzle just like a carb. if you could maybe have an inner nozzle shape that will capture and push the pressure out the nozzle with the fuel coming in from behind it it may allow the fuel to actually make it down the bottle sidewalls. the same would go for inversing it with the added advantage that the flow would still be cooling your nozzle down that way but you would then either need to just pump fuel through and spay it everywhere rather than having a resevoir OR again use a kneck internal exension to catch the outflowing fuel (although this method would provide a puddle of insulating fluid around the area most likly to fail under pressure, the shoulder

[@rafaelpadilha4585]

Makes one appreciate even more rocket scientists. It is quite hard to make rocket engines.

[@jabatheshort660]

What about mixing the a;chol with so,etching like propylene glycol to thicken it and make it more Able to coat the sides. I feel like this in a right mixture could help burn more consistent

[@notsam498]

I was thinking running rich would help.. in internal combustion it's used all the time to suppress cylinder temperatures from rising to much. That's why your car gets crappy mpg on a hot day usually.. the engine detects the beginning of predetonation and dumps extra fuel in to carry away same of the heat and raise the threshold for detonation. Though running rich atomized mixtures will almost certainly get the nozzle first.

[@maxkarp6758]

babe, wake up new scienceish video dropped

[@ehworkshop9922]

Metal mesh will absorb some heat before hitting the plastic bottle wall

[@Variety_Pack]

You should have your fuel draining down the sides in the same direction as the burn direction.

[@cescohenrichs2655]

Why don’t you rap the outtake of the pump around the bottle so it can cool down the bottle before it gets in? Also, could you have the fluid go through some cariogenic cooling so it’s extra cold when it gets in?

[@evilcanofdrpepper]

I wonder if you could go full on Linus Tech tips and water cool the whole thing? Just get bottles that are close to fitting in one another or like get a 3 liter soda bottle to fit around your 2 liter bottles and just cut it in half and tape it back together to get the 2 liter insider the 3 liter bottle and pump water through that gap the whole time! I think it would even take longer without a pump because the walls would start off much cooler and with much more thermal mass backing them up.

[@frothydv]

Fun stuff! How would this work submerged under water (other than the nozzle)? Might help cooling

[@andyvonbourske6405]

adding a check valve might help a little and they're easy to 3d print