Season 12 Starts with a Mystery

[@Halfwheelhell]

I read the comments and can offer no help. Commenting so you know I enjoy watching your journey and mysteries!

[@dylanlafollette7804]

When I graduated I bought my first Bronco for 3k and used this channel as inspiration to what to do. I ended up selling it cause it was way to much for me and having no knowledge. Now I’m 26, just got married and my wife came up to me with another one for sale that looked pretty good. I ended up picking it up and came full circle back here. I’m in a much better spot to work on mine and I would rewatch all your videos from the time I didn’t have my first, now I feel so confident with my second. Funny how everything comes back full circle!

[@Dime333]

Season 12 and we are only at 13k subs. Criminal! Keep up the hard work. No one can say you don’t have a passion for this. Hopefully classic Bronco prices go back up.

[@Halfwheelhell]

100% ! I love Matt's channel. I can't understand the low numbers either.

[@brianreilly6358]

Hi, Matt! Great to see you back on the Bronco. Looking forward to seeing you tackle this issue! I learn so much!

[@denniskwasnycia1950]

I had a problem close to yours. Every other tank of fuel, I had to add at least one to one and a half quarts of oil. It was a fresh build on a 460. The plugs were all clean, no leaks anywhere and no smoking. Oil was just gone, so I started to pull the intake and saw that there was oil in the intake runners and the back of the new valves were black crusty already after 1000 miles. To help keep this short, I pulled the motor and had the heads machined for positive seals instead of the umbrella seals. Next the after market valve covers had very small plates under the PVC and oil fill holes, so I made larger plates, just in case. I thought the intake may have been sucking oil from the lifter valley, so I made sure to add sealant to the intake gasket. This salved the problem about 98% Even though the umbrella seals were new, they may have been damaged while installing them. As for the dip stick going into the oil pan, I used JB weld inside and out over the rivets and all around the outside edges of it. Turns out the casting is just riveted to the oil pan with cork between. This salved that problem as well, since it was leaking like yours. Hope this helps. Thanks for the great videos!

[@MattsGarage]

All good points. It's def not PCV but I'm honing in on the seals and intake manifold gasket as the likely culprits.

[@pierpalicious]

Such a cool rig, Matt! I love your attitude in the trouble shooting process. You seem to love investigating the mystery. Fun to watch.

[@timberry9625]

Hey Matt, 0:06 Two issue are potential culprits of excess oil in cylinders. Loose valve guide or valve seals, bad pcv valve or no pcv shield allowing oil to be drawn in during vacuum. I had both problems with sbc I don't know if ford had any of these issues. Also I think I remember hearing of an oil consumption issue if piston rings were installed upside down. Something about a slight rotation of a ring allowing a wiping of the cylinder. I'm really reaching on this one so take it with a grain of salt.

[@RatelLaw]

Matt, sorry I can’t give you any advice, you’re way way further down the rabbit hole than anything I’ve ever attempted. Thank you for sharing your expertise on the subject.

[@kdog622]

I had your issue with spark jump on my coil on my 66 mustang 289 when I installed pertronix ignition and wires. It was causing non-spark fouling on three plugs. All I had to do was rubber-insulate my tower on my coil and it solved the problem.

[@MattsGarage]

Great tip. How did you rubber insulater the coil tower? Flex-seal?

[@kdog622]

@@MattsGarage I used an extra coil wire boot. Cut about an inch off and put it on the tower as far down as it would go, then put on the normal coil wire and boot. No more spark.

[@Knknk728]

Sometimes if the intake gasket doesn’t seal right it can suck oil out of the valley of the engine into individual cylinders. If you pulled the intake and saw oil in the intake runners of the head you would know for sure. Or could pull the carb off and bore scope to see.

[@MattsGarage]

@@Knknk728 that’s a great idea. And that would be a super easy fix.

[@chuckjimenez5511]

PCV? Oil coming up through the PCV? I couldn’t tell for sure - are you running the Scott Drake Bronco valve covers? Some have said the PCV/breather baffles are not very good on them. Maybe swap the valve covers out with something else and see if the oil consumption changes…?

[@MattsGarage]

Checked it today. Not a hint of oil. Thanks for the thinking though.

[@Harmonkustoms]

If I had to take a shot at it I would probably say oil rings on cyl 4. Can still have good compression rings but oil rings on bottom could be letting oil past 🤷‍♂️

[@dennisjump8655]

Could they be improperly installed? I seem to recall them being beveled (?). Haven't done one ion years.

[@MaverickNutron]

Tough to T/S via the internet (long distance) but how was the blow by situation when it was running? The compression test does seem to indicate good ring seal BUT can be deceiving at crank (slow) speed. A lot of blow-by while running indicates poor ring seal. Valve guides/seals troubles typically present like you’re seeing (oily/fouled plugs) but it’s odd to be only the “rear” cylinders …oil drain back issues(pooling in the heads)??? And someone else has already mentioned PCV issues but that usually pushes oil out where it shouldn’t (around gaskets, seals, etc). Pulling the motor certainly would make it easier to work on but seems premature without a bit more T/S. Whoops… T/S = troubleshooting!

[@MattsGarage]

Thanks Maverick. Checked the PCV, clean as a whistle. Next I'm going to check intake and valve seals.

[@tom4139]

If rings and valves are good then I’d bet it’s PCV check-valve related.

[@MattsGarage]

Checked it. Clean as a whistle. Not even a hint of oil. Thanks though!

[@leomd123]

I wouldn't pull the motor, that's a lot of work for something that might not even be head related. Id start w a simple cam and scope cylinder #4... look at the top for valve issues, head gasket leaks or any other anomaly. If you cant see anything move to the intake runner going to 4 . Also pop off the valve cover and check out the valve train over #4 for some strange valve seal issues or anything suspect. My gut tells me it's a pressurization issue and wonder if PVC issues are involved. I can't imagine that u would get such a critical issue after a rebuild and such a long road trip. The lack of party glitter in your oil tells me it's something less sinister. Good luck!

[@MattsGarage]

Thanks Leo, as always. Checked the PCV. Clean as a whistle. I'm thinking intake or valve seals.

[@marteck319]

PVC system installed correctly?

[@MattsGarage]

@@marteck319 I think so. There’s no oil in the pcv or the baffle. Vacuum on one side, vent on the other.

[@billh5592]

Valve seal or valve guide?

[@MattsGarage]

@@billh5592 the valve seals are new, but could be valve guides. That would be obvious once I get the head apart though right? Because there would be a ton of oil on the back side. That would be an easy fix : new heads 😁

[@billh5592]

@@MattsGarage you would think so. I don’t remember what heads you had but if those were oem and have the umbrella seals then I have had them tear before. Stay with it though. You’ll get it. I’m fighting a “fuel” issue with mine now…

[@MattsGarage]

@@billh5592 stock 5.0 heads. They have the umbrella seals. I might have boogered them up. But would it be enough to lose a quart every tank of gas?

[@billh5592]

@@MattsGarage maybe? I’d pull a valve cover and take a look just to see what you see before settling on pulling the engine.

[@brianberes6564]

My vote is the umbrella valve seals are leaking,

[@Dime333]

Which air filter is that?

[@MattsGarage]

@@Dime333 BSP-15320 from summit

[@Dime333]

@@MattsGarage dude thanks so much! Great channel 🙏🏻