Seiko 6309 Rebuild- Train Works ( 5000 Sub Giveaway)

[@MyRetroWatches]

If you would like to buy a T-Shirt then please click this link (thanks for your support) If you would like to look at my T-Shirts then please look here: teespring.com/stores/my-retro-watches If you would like to purchase any tools & equipment then please see my Amazon affiliate page here: Link: Link: myretrowatches.com/tool-sale-links/ I do earn a small commission from any sales. Thank you.

[@nigelchapman8855]

My Retro Watches I seen a hair go in with the escape wheel. Love your videos! Keep it up.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Nigel chapman thanks. These things are easily missed with a camera in the way I’m going to seek out that hair

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks guys I have now just seen the hair too!!! How did I miss that!?!?!

[@carloscarvalhido2424]

Hi. At 15:25 a hair came in with the escape wheel. Did enjoy this video a lot. You made it step by step, very clearly. Waiting for the next one. Thanks, Mike.

[@MyRetroWatches]

carlos carvalhido thank you. Everyone saw the hair but me... haha fault finding is well on the way and should be live in a day or so.

[@RedWolfRedWolfRedWolf]

Just came here to say the same 😀

[@kermitefrog64]

Noted the flying piece at 34:40. You are fortunate to have found it so fast. I lost twice yesterday the spring pin that holds the wrist band in place with the watch casing. I finally found it each time but it definitely teaches the need to be patient. I just got a basic tool set early in the week from eBay and also bought a Citizen wrist watch. I changed out the dead battery on the Fossil and got it going and had to remove some links on the Citizen wrist band or what is commonly called the bracelet. So, I had to take out the spring pin on both watches. The bracelets on both watches have the "L" pin to hold the links together.

[@KCRose56]

I watched it all. I'm going to watch every moment of the entire series. I gave a friend my 6309 many years ago. When he died I asked if I could have the watch back. It had never been serviced, was in very poor condition and wouldn't run. Watching your videos scares me and challenges me at the same time but I'm going to do this to honor the memory of my lifelong best friend.

[@MyRetroWatches]

This is fantastic that out of tragedy its motivating you to have a go. Patience and determination is all you need. Being scared is normal but just take loads of photos, take your time and dont force anything and you will be okay. if you get stuck along the way just send me an email

[@timlangel6211]

Greatly hearing your genuine excitement when you saw the balance start running. Great video. And I did watch all the way to the end.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks, I do this hobby for that bit of excitement and its what got me hooked in the first place. Thanks for watching to the end. Its great to hear this.

[@Andrew-fb4vn]

Your videos have been quite literally priceless. Thank you so much for putting these together.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Glad you like them! Always nice to hear they are helping people out there.

[@colineggleston9900]

I watch all of your videos from beginning to end they are so absorbing as I’ve just started tinkering with broken watches in my retirement

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thank you for your comment Colin. I am glad you enjoy my content and even happier if it is inspiring you into this amazing hobby. Good luck with your projects.

[@jone492]

I just love to watch these type of informative videos.

[@glennpowell3444]

No I have watched it all . Looking forward to seeing how you deal with the amplitude. Fascinating. Cheers again for a second comment,Len.

[@glennpowell3444]

I have another thought? I am not a watchmaker but very sympathetic of mechanical engineering. You have changed the pallet fork to an escapement wheel with a wear " memory" of its old one. There maybe a disparity between the two until they re bed . Maybe just leave things as they are and keep it fully wound for a week or so and see how the beat error and amplitude come better? Just a thought for nothing? Its a bit like running in a rebuilt engine using new parts and old?

[@markpronk26]

thanks for the perfect explanation about the oil. and how to do that!

[@gopalakrishnanramaswamy6562]

Great!You are a genius in watch making.

[@Supercruze]

Mike, thanks for your vid journals of these builds. You essentially taught me the basic steps to watch repair and service. I am still amazed at how you show your work through phone cameras and the microscope. Very well done. I saw two issues. 1. As others have pointed out, the tiny hair when you placed the escape wheel onto the movement. 2. When dropping the diashock setting onto the jewel after oiling, as you pointed out you missed the mark. This miss likely caused the oil to be disbursed to the outside of the jewel setting and not in the center where it needs to be for the balance pivot. Anytime this happens to me, I pretty much start over by cleaning the jewel and setting with benzine and watch paper and then go again with oiling. I think your amplitude will jump dramatically once you fix these two items. Also, assume you are measuring amplitude on a full wind or maybe an hour or two after full wind. You would then measure again after say 24 hours of letting the watch run in.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Supercruze thank you., very nice comment. Amazed if I have inspired you to start up . If that’s the case then I am very pleased indeed and makes the effort of producing the videos worth it . The fault finding is well on the way , granted the jewel oiling really was poor on the diashock as I dropped the Chaton by mistake really ... Better oiling would improve but not by 40 degrees . Amp at 160 is more serious than oil. Stay tuned in a day or two the fault finding should be up.

[@christophermoody2543]

Love your channel I have been trying to fix watches for a couple of years with some success your channel has helped Chris from London

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thank you Chris. Patience and bloody minded determination is all you need! Good luck with your watchmaking

[@kermitefrog64]

I watched the whole video. Thank you. It was very instructive.

[@paulwheelhouse7090]

Hi I have only just subscribed to your Ytube channel, I would like to say bloody well done for passing on your knowledge to us newbies, by the way I am 67 years old. Many years ago I used to fiddle with pocket watches, but it was so difficult to get any sort of spares I gave it up. But you have inspired me to take it up again, but I sold all of my Bergeon tools, so starting again. I started with screwdrivers for £20 and replaced the blades for Horotec so the working end is high quality. The problem you have with the missing teeth on the 6309, I had a lot of this problem with pocket watches and this was down to the main spring breaking away from the arbour and releasing its power all in one go with the result in broken teeth, hope this helps. Once again thank you for your knowledge

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks Paul I’m happy I have given you inspiration to have another go. It’s what the channel is all about .

[@mattobrien3346]

Honestly Mike I could kiss you although given the current shenanigans probably not advisable! I have been using my self isolation productively and decided after 2 years of trying to rebuild a Seiko and miserably failing (admittedly only trying every 2 weeks or so) have another go. I was honestly thinking that it wasn't for me and I would never be able to do it. Anyhow this time followed this video again and everything fell into place (after 2 days of struggle) and I succeeded! The buzz I got from seeing the the balance kick into action! I know I have the keyless works and jewels to oil but now I have a renewed enthusiasm. Thanks ever so much for your time Mike.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks for commenting . (Sorry for my late reply). Yes the feeling of achievement when they run again is something I am addicted to.

[@michaelberhanu7358]

i always download your manual files your website is the best for me

[@TheFPF422]

Seeing it come to life was very sweet indeed! Even before the balance was properly screwed in!

[@TheFPF422]

The timegrapher results were such a let down after all this work...

[@TheFPF422]

When I saw your bench, it made me think of my modeling days... sweet memories... Thank you 🙏 As usual, super informative... if I had my eyes, steady hands of a few years ago... and the cash (for the tools needed), I would seriously consider the “hobby”

[@MyRetroWatches]

Pierre-Andre Labeau thank you. Sorry to hear you can’t start in this hobby. My eyes are getting worse but as everything is under magnification I’m okay it’s toggling between the two that I find difficult

[@TheFPF422]

My Retro Watches sorry to hear about your eyes problems... it really sucks in general but especially when your passion involves tiny parts 😟

[@MyRetroWatches]

Pierre-Andre Labeau ah don’t worry. It’s just age and needing stinger reading glasses. Thing is I was born with a bad astigmatism in my right eye which in the 70s was not picked up till too late. Meaning I cannot even read the big letter in an eye test with it but my brain developed not using it apparently so in essence I only have one good eye

[@a.aguilar]

Hurra! Very good to have it running, Mike. Very clean lines on the timegrapher that are a very good sign. You'll get that amplitude to upper levels for sure. Maybe it's the hair on the escape wheel, I also shaw it.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Agustin Aguilar clearly I need to hunt for the hair! It’s easy to miss these things when you have a camera in the way. Thanks

[@BillMrWild]

I see the hair too, as you were putting the escape wheel in, thanks for posting Mike.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Bill A interesting I can’t. My eyes ... my eyes damn.

[@ianmansfield68]

@@MyRetroWatches I saw it too - just before 15:25 it appears to be a scratch on the bridge leading directly upwards from the escape wheel jewel, then as you insert the escape wheel it appears to get pushed under the bridge. Great video Mike!

[@MyRetroWatches]

Ian Mansfield thanks Ian , looks like I’m going to hunt for hair later !

[@MyRetroWatches]

Finally seen it Bill 😂

[@victorpedigo8544]

All your videos are great and always watch them to the end.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Victor Pedigo thank you so much Victor

[@Bearcwy]

I have a similar watch and movement and this video series is very informative to me. I can't wait to see how this watch turns out. I need to get a new mainspring for mine and install it.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks and good luck with your build.

[@Paddington2000]

Thank's for that, watched it all the way through and now have a much better understanding of how and where to lubricate a watch movement. Great video 👍

[@MyRetroWatches]

Harvey Johnson brilliant. Glad you made it until the end and you may have picked up some tips. Good luck with your projects

[@bargainbuster440]

Watched the whole of the video. Really enjoyed it!

[@plainclotheshorse224]

That was great. I learned loads watching it. I have one of these in pieces at the moment (my first attempt) so this will come in handy. Thanks Mike. Good luck with the amplitude.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Plain clothes horse great glad you enjoyed it. Appreciate the comment. Update video coming very very soon

[@davidhammond9336]

Great Video Mike, I probably have been using too much oil, advantage of a microscope. Also missed the part about not oiling the Pallet Fork on my first service attempt...nuts! Live and learn.

[@MyRetroWatches]

pallet fork oiling is not for the faint hearted, I think you can only do it on a scope and its still difficult there. to be honest you can get away without oiling it . Thanks as always for watching David

[@nunomendes2484]

47 min! You're killing us Mike! I have to schedule this one...

[@MyRetroWatches]

Nuno Mendes really sorry , still no real idea how come it was so long other than all my taking ..

[@nunomendes2484]

@@MyRetroWatches 47 min well spent :). Good job.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Nuno Mendes relief. Thank you for watching and (hopefully) enjoying

[@Inkreptile]

Nice video ! I really enjoy these multiple video restoration projects you are making Have a Nice day

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thank you for watching and supporting the channel.

[@jasongennero2925]

I tend to use a little more oil than necessary as well, but as long as your self servicing all your watches on a regular basis it's actually the way to go. A little more oil means a little less friction which means a little less wear. But it also means that you need to clean the movement a little more frequently as well. But with a set up like yours, that shouldn't be a problem.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Very true. too much oil will give drag though. I have found especially on the pallet stones.

[@jasongennero2925]

@@MyRetroWatches yeah I don't do both either just the smallest amount on one is all you need.

[@thedisabledwelshman9266]

excellent as ever.

[@TheMistakenly]

Now where would the fun be if it ran perfectly on the first try? Great vid. Thanks for taking the time to go through each step slowly and in detail.

[@MyRetroWatches]

TheMistakenly thanks, nice comment! Glad you enjoyed the video. This WILL be Fixed I can assure you.

[@etebol]

I just saved your website to my favorites. I wanted to share, for the beginner, use an ice tray from the freezer, and as you take a part off use one of the ice slots to place the part in, along with the screws that held it together and any other parts that become loose at that particular time. Use the slots in sequence so it will help you remember what comes next when putting it back together, just go backwards. Do it enough times and you will eventually you will learn the movement to memory.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Good idea. Ironically I do have an ice cube tray that I keep scrap balances in.

[@diegodavidreyes8424]

After seeing how much oil you use, i feel like I've been drowning my watches in oil 😅. So, changing back to the important subject. This is gonna be a great watch the winnet is gonna be in love with it, by the way, i knew it wasn't long gone 😉. About the hair don't worry to much, i didn't saw it the first time, the good thing in that now you know and it can be fixed. Always a pleasure to see your work

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thank you sir, yes less it best on oil too much has the opposite effect and causes drag which will slow things down. I am hoping this one will turn out good in the end.... Fault finding video is already in production so stay tuned!

[@amirrayan1493]

The feeling you got when it started to tick i got it too hahaha love the video.. can't wait for the next one

[@StefaanVdV1961]

Very learnfull video, thank You for sharing.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Stefaan Vandevenne thank you

[@adrianbirkett594]

Great job Mike!, ya I saw the hair too😭. Great to get it running though!👍. Enjoyed the WHOLE video!!!. Adrian. 🍀

[@MyRetroWatches]

Adrian Birkett yeay you heard the message at the end! Thanks as always pal.

[@dineshjain6770]

How was the watch and what happened now it is looking amazing

[@smitmachinale8281]

I saw the hair too, as you were putting in the escape wheel Mike.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Smit Machinale I’ve now seen it. Slightly embarrassing

[@smitmachinale8281]

@@MyRetroWatches I doubt it will solve the low amplitude, but you never know.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Smit Machinale true, my immediate thoughts is that main spring , trace when I tweaked the regulator and stud show quite nice lines . Fortunately I have spare everything so will go through one by one.

[@rudolfdooren949]

well done thank u for the video! And true if u say i find it adictive!! it`s every time fun and amazing!

[@MyRetroWatches]

Rudolf Dooren it’s what I like the most when they run again

[@michaelparker5390]

Watched it all, great stuff 👍🙂

[@MyRetroWatches]

Michael Parker thanks

[@cicco1838]

Hello awesome work cheers..

[@gtcih]

According to the manual the top of the center wheel should be lubricated prior to the installation of the bridge. Also, not sure why the manual leaves out the oiling if the center wheel bridge prior to the installation of the fourth wheel. I have the 6309 A instructions.

[@johnthefox6239]

Can't wait for the 10k sub Seiko 6309 giveaway. Since sub counts take off around 5k.

[@MyRetroWatches]

I was not aware of subs taking off. After 1000 it grows and I guess thats because you can monetise the channel .

[@Bowlerhatrebellion]

Very interesting.

[@nubbymcnub4754]

Contemplating servicing my seiko, eeeeek

[@MyRetroWatches]

good for you, go for it as its the only way to learn. just know to take time, never force anything and that there is lots of support on hand if you need it.

[@kermitefrog64]

Thank you for the lessons since I am a novice. Nice videos and it gives good insight for repairing time pieces. I am just getting some knowledge so that I can work on the wrist watches and pocket watches that I have. Out of curiosity, when you use the expression quid when you said 50 quid or 50 pounds apparently that is the same. I am from the south end of the San Joaquin Valley in the Golden State across the pond so I am trying to become familiar with some of the expressions of English in the U.K. It's is the same language but a number of expressions and idiom's are different.

[@MyRetroWatches]

@@kermitefrog64 yes quid is slang for pound 50 quid is £50 A ton is £100 A grand is £1000

[@daleyurk4369]

Mike, regardless, you got it running and I know you'll find the issue. If you can, would love to know what the problem with the amplitude is. Thanks for the video, nice job of filming!

[@MyRetroWatches]

Dale Yurk fault finding video / rambling has already started to be filmed!

[@javiercacho4790]

Hi, a suggestion for your next videos. You can tell us about which magnifiers do you have and which do you really use in practice. Eyeglasses, binoculars, optivisor...which are the best option in your opinion?

[@MyRetroWatches]

I will do this on the calendar rebuild (as long as I remember) I have shown this is in other videos. Basically I use an optivisor from day one, it was cheap and had an led light on it. interchangeable lenses too however i found x2.5 was sufficient for my eyes with my reading glasses on also. it frees up both hands and that in my opinion is really important. so personally just this and the scope. I do have a few cheap loupes that get used occasionally , oh and a clip on lenses for my glasses

[@alan776600]

Fantastic as always buddy :)

[@MyRetroWatches]

alan776600 alan! Cheers mate

[@HotWheelsATL]

Great video!

[@JonTheComputerDoctor]

Adjusting the beat error may well bring the amplitude up and maybe re-clean the end stones.

[@MyRetroWatches]

JonTheComputerDoctor I have tweaked a little already and not much improvement other than nice straight lines. As many have pointed out when fitting the escape a hair went in too that I missed ( easy to when filming). So hopefully that is causing some of the issue too

[@bondoff]

I saw two issues, Mike. 1. I think you need to replace the pallet fork with a new one. Lack of shelack - that's one, and the pallets are not fitted properly - that's two. 2. The hairspring is not perfectly round. Please excuse my English it's not my native. That's what I saw. At the end of the vid I've expected you to check other positions on the time grapher as well. If other positions are good then perhaps there's a shock absorber issues? I'm not a professional watchmaker, so please do consult with a pro. Great vid, great job - it's alive and that's most important for now. I like your channel. Keep up the good work!!! Cheers!

[@MyRetroWatches]

Антон Бондов some interesting points so thanks. Yes other positions did not really show much difference after a tweak to the regulator and stud . Pallet is already from a donor but I don’t mind trying another as I have plenty and it’s easy to fit. Why do you think they are fitted incorrectly? To my eyes hair spring is fine but again I will once again inspect. They can look odd on the 6309 due to the terminal curve . I will start the inspection later, probably strip and clean the whole thing . Replace the main spring with another too.

[@bondoff]

@@MyRetroWatches I'm sorry the pallets are fitted properly, i meant they looks like they are not fitted till the end of their representative "beds". Also for me it looks like the pallets are not glued properly with shellac. This could lead to pallet bending during the time.

[@dbzamora]

What sort of process or strategy do your use in keeping track of all those tiny screws especially when you put them into those cleaning baskets?

[@MyRetroWatches]

Interesting question and there is not really a strategy anymore on watches I know like these Seikos as you get to identify the ones you need. take the 6309 for instance, there are 3 main sizes and then a few additions after a while you just know which one is which. the main one to get right is the flat headed one for the centre wheel bridge. I have learned from experience that to get that one wrong and fit a longer one (same thread) it can push right through to the dial side and then hamper the rebuild there. Took me a while to work out what was wrong. Thanks for watching my channel

[@dbzamora]

My Retro Watches Thanks so much Mike!

[@stephenstebbing9460]

Watched it all and enjoyed. Re the low amplitude: as a clueless newbie, I know I'd be very tempted to leave it alone. In what ways does the low amplitude affect the well being of the watch? Thanks.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Hello, good question! amplitude can be left alone and in many ways it will not effect the running other than being less tolerant of minor issues. position for one, so when the watch is on your arm the watch is standing vertical this puts strain on the movement due to gravity. Likewise sitting dial up (at a desk for instance) this means the balance is upside down and thus gravity will be wanting to pull it. Dial down like it was on the timergraph is its easiest running position so I find the best results there so if they are not that good then it will only be worse in other positions. Amplitude is the degrees of travel the balance makes in the tick and the tock, less travel means less power in the train of wheels and is an indication that something is not right . when you are as far into the hobby as I am you want hit your targets and not be satisfied with "it will be okay" also as I am giving this away at the end and it could go anywhere in the world ( last giveaway went to South East Australia !) It needs to be as good as it possibly can so the winner can enjoy it without problems at least for a few years. I hope this goes some way to answering your question.

[@baconatordoom]

It looked like their was a small grey hair when you set the escape wheel.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Yes this has been seen by you all and I missed it in filming and editing!

[@nunyabizness199]

I may be seeing things but I could almost swear I saw a hair going in with the escapement, could have been a reflection I suppose...At about 15:27.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Nunya Bizness #1 ahaha well spotted. I would not want to give the game away but you then need to watch this part of the series. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpWtnpSYi6d5i7s

[@nunyabizness199]

@@MyRetroWatches Thank you sir, I shall..🙂

[@Inkreptile]

Maybe the low amplitude has it's origin in the lower arbor jewel ??

[@Inkreptile]

The lower arbor jewel can be worn

[@MyRetroWatches]

I am working on the fault finding video so stay tuned. :-)

[@mogomo1]

Where can I buy this british holder?Thanks in advance

[@moskauuhrmacher6833]

Hello, Mike! I've saw you used wrong oil type on high loaded main and third wheels. The D5 or D3 should be on its jewels, because 9010 can't hold oil film on surface under significant pressure, which created by main spring force. This could be a cause why you get only 220° of amplitude. Another cause is weared pallet fork jewels. Generally, 9010 should be used on balance wheel jewels, pallets, escape wheel and center wheel. In all another places you can use D5/D3, as it's a main purpose oil (except barrel and main spring, of course).

[@toothpik00]

Crap! Somehow my centerwheel got under my forearm and it's broken in half! This is an old movement. Fingers crossed I can find a new one. Thanks for the tutorial. It was helping me get back on track until this happened. Oh well. Time for a beer 🍻

[@MyRetroWatches]

parts for a 6309 will be easy to find. this guy sells parts and whole watches in all state of repairs. speedtimerkollektion.com/

[@toothpik00]

@@MyRetroWatches Hey thanks for the heads up! I got onto another spares movement here in Australia. I also found a clean looking complete barrel and click from Spain. Why do I need that? Well I also broke the bridle off when trying to wind the spring back into the barrel. Thanks again for this link, I'll check it out 🍻

[@toothpik00]

@@MyRetroWatches Well I got everything reassembled using a doner movement. I only realised today that mine has shock proofed jewel assemblies set into the train bridge for the escape pinion and what I think is the third wheel pinion. Must be a feature of the 6309A? The cap jewel over the escape wheel had dislodged and was off-centre. Plus it looked dirty underneath. Having successfully cleaned and oiled the balance jewel assemblies, I thought I'd be clever and clean these other two as well. Well, unfortunately I lost one of the retaining springs. Luckily I had the original movement main bridge with the same jewel settings. The jewels look in much better condition on this one so I just swapped it out. Now when I tighten it right down all the wheels stop. The watch will run as long as the screws aren't tightened right down. But they still feel too loose to be called secure. I didn't have this problem with the original bridge.

[@MyRetroWatches]

@@toothpik00 they are called diafix jewels . I have a video on how I replace them somewhere on my channel

[@toothpik00]

@@MyRetroWatches thanks, I'll look it up. Do you have any ideas on why the doner bridge would be causing the train wheels to stop when it's fully screwed down?

[@giampaololanaro8802]

at 15.25 minutes of the video, when you put the wheel you can see that you are also threading a piece of fabric.

[@glennpowell3444]

Love your content than you. Quick question... When a mechanical movement is hacked what is or how is said movement stopped when the stem is out to setting position? Does it " hurt" if that makes sense? Cheers,Len.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Glenn Powell good question and different brands do it differently. Seiko do a hacking vintage. Model 6106 which you can see I’ve done videos on if you look at my video list. It’s a basic lever and moves with the clutch / stem that moves the opposite end onto the escape wheel staff which is enough to stop it. I’ve never left anything in hack too long to know if it would do damage. Realistically I’d guess it’s about how much power is in the spring as to the force it’s stopping

[@glennpowell3444]

@@MyRetroWatches Thank you.I guessed it stopped the balance directly. What you say about the power in the mainspring also makes sense which is why I asked if it hurt as it were.Appreciate your reply.Regards,Len.

[@martinstabb7059]

Hi Mike. You say that you use the black oiler, which is the smallest. I bought a 0.18mm ergonomic Bergeon oiler and it's hard to believe I'm getting anything on it. is you black one of similar size?

[@MyRetroWatches]

Yes. black and red are the same size. I no longer use the ergonomic range as they are too expensive and the spade end breaks to easily. I now just use standard Berbeon black or red ones. Dont forget you only need a tiny amount of oil.

[@martinstabb7059]

@@MyRetroWatches Thanks Mike for the feedback. If / when the ergonomic one breaks I’ll revert to the ones you use. Regards, Martin

[@julianeyre173]

I just striped a 70s timex, i took loads of photos but for some unknown reason the phone has not saved them now im trying to figure out where everything fits. Do you know where i can find an exploded diagram to help.

[@MyRetroWatches]

julian eyre sorry to hear that. Must be a total nightmare. Sadly Timex is not my strongpoint . Google / forums or the Facebook groups should help you

[@dodgydruid]

That's a naughty hair there at 15:20 O.o

[@MyRetroWatches]

Ian Watson I can’t see it?

[@peterhorne7203]

@@MyRetroWatches Mike, the hair was on or near the escape wheel and got pushed in between the escape wheel and the plate.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Peter Horne thanks. I will have to look on a bigger screen. That said the movement will be in pieces within hours !

[@hugedickerinokripperino5299]

I saw that too. I was gonna comment that but he beat me to it.

[@Paddington2000]

Hi there, just to let you know, the link to the service sheet no longer works.

[@johnpinner1]

I told you is going to be a challenge

[@MyRetroWatches]

Stay turned , fault finding coming very soon

[@SideWalkAstronomyNetherlands]

You didn't number the videos about this watch, so I have no clue if I'm watching the right one, I think this is number 4..

[@MyRetroWatches]

There is a playlist in the playlist tab, they are in order

[@rickcroucher]

I have a Seiko from the 70's that was my dad's. The number on back is 6119-7140. Where and how do I find the service sheet for this particular watch? Thank you for your help. I have been enjoying your videos and hope to give watch repair a try when I can afford the tools and consumables.

[@thisisbadstuff]

The lines in this case isn't depicting accurately your beat error. Think of the gap as being so wide that one of the lines went out the top and came out the bottom and met the other line. You might see some improvements in amplitude after you fix this issue.

[@MyRetroWatches]

thisisbadstuff yes I did hint at this in the video that the lines did not represent the beat error correctly . I regulated some more and it improved but not enough. Fault finding video already started.

[@hamishspencer]

If I'm not new to the channel, are you not Mike? I'm kidding! But in seriousness, can I humbly suggest changing the intro to "Hi I'm Mike...". The bit about being new to the channel seems redundant and excludes (albeit in s minor way) the loyal people who have been following for a while. Love the channel and please take this is constructive criticism.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks Hamish. you do make a fair point, I think I have been watching too much "how to grow your channel" videos, there is phycology in welcoming new watchers and hinting at them to subscribe, you are more likely to get them to do this at the beginning as not everyone makes it to the end. Hence the reason I use the term "if you are new to the channel" Last thing I want is to have an annoying saying that people start picking up on... Thanks

[@SideWalkAstronomyNetherlands]

And the fork thing..

[@SideWalkAstronomyNetherlands]

Out of focus...., what I do, I'm a sidewalk astronomer, using a telescope, I focus things with my glasses on, than most of the time the Moon is in focus for other people too.. Might work for you too :)

[@stuartbaines2843]

Shame your hard work was not rewarded at the first attempt 🤔

[@dor-si9145]

I love how I get ads for $180,000 USD F. P. Journe tourbillons on this channel. Edit: since you asked...I also watched the entire vid from start to finish.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Dor-Si haha I have no control over the ads that play . Crazy if that’s the ad you saw! Thanks for watching . Appreciated

[@MsAppleseed]

Wrong oils!!!!

[@MyRetroWatches]

Orlin Rusev in what sense? 9010 is the most widely used oil there is in the community . D5 similar so .l I am no professional and do not claim to be.

[@MsAppleseed]

The oil used on the barrel arbor and minute pinion is wrong. It should be Seiko S-6 grease. Inside the barrel it should be Seiko S-2 grease. The 9010 and the D-5 are correct.

[@thisisbadstuff]

"motion works" does not refer to train.

[@MyRetroWatches]

thisisbadstuff yes this is my bad. Motion is the dial side , I just use the term loosely. Calendar works and motion works (train side). I am not a pro, far from it . Just a hobbyist so do not know the correct terminology