Setting up your new Monoprice Select Mini Pro - Setting Nozzle/Bed Gap

[@andreasgelezun2968]

The calibration of the sensor helped me a lot! Thank you for doing this video!

[@csteachuk]

Thanks for your help Pauly - this video helped me realise that the buildtak esque heat bed sticker I had installed was interfering with the inductive sensor. I wouldn't have realised this without your section on adjusting the height of the inductive sensor. Now all working again (and a new heat bed sticker required!). Many thanks from Scotland!

[@csteachuk]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4CznaqkntipatU video showing the error, in case anyone else finds it useful!

[@paulwills7902]

I think your video may have answered my issue. The close and far I have misunderstood. I have been adjusting based on the following. I have used the 'close' adjustment thinking the head is to close and not as in your video to bring in closer, I thought the distance was increasing as the numbers although negative increased. Likewise I used ' far' thinking this adjustment would bring the head closer. Am going to try your levelling method so fingers crossed. I received the printer a week ago and was totally blown away by the quality of the test print. I moved the printer from my lounge to another room and my settings have gone to pot. Thank you though for a very clear and easy to understand video. Going to try this now :-)

[@Outofthedust]

I had the same issue. I had it backwards.

[@chentedelgado]

Thank you for all of your vids Pauly. Just got my mini pro 2 days ago and had success on third pass! Grazie!

[@pauly7218]

I have some new stuff happening in the 3D world, so keep watching!

[@Outofthedust]

I had NO idea the sensor could be adjusted! This fixes my issue with modded fan shrouds for the pro!

[@nurivangalvanrodriguez8395]

your videos about The MP pro are heally helpful thanks

[@ReluctantLightningForge]

Thanks for the updated video, great job! Hopefully future MPSM Pro users can avoid the issues I had ran into with popping the Lead Screw nuts out of the gantry housing.

[@pauly7218]

Thanks for our discussions. Did you watch the new vids? What did you think? That about cover it?

[@ReluctantLightningForge]

I did and I think you were more thorough than I would have been, great job!

[@Jordamnn]

10:53 This is the most random thing but I have the exact same water thermometer that he has in the background. Also, amazing video!

[@pauly7218]

...and I love mine!

[@Jordamnn]

@@pauly7218 Me too!

[@benjaminstaldine5171]

Thanks for putting this out, helped me set up my new printer!

[@rafaelbarbosa8021]

Hey, I'm talking from Brazil and I want to thank you. I bought a Monoprice Select Mini Pro in December of 2018 and I never got a better result. Why didn't I find your video before? hahaha

[@JosephLorentzen]

I am on my 3rd PRO and still have my original V1. Actually, my V1 seems to be a V1 plus heated bed. Anyway back to my Pro. The first one came in with a Z axis that would not move. The second one, I enjoyed for a month until it started hitting the bed no matter where the "tune" was set. It tore the paper right off. This last one came with a different extruder and different bed paper. This extruder does not have a gap between the extruder and the bowden tube connector. But it looks like a printed piece instead of a nice shiney mould injected piece. I want it for my model v1s also. It looks better for handling flexible materials. Well, it is just finishing its first print, Some Z banding, but otherwise a very decent print.

[@pauly7218]

I still think it is a great machine. I've printed about 75% of my Terminator arm on my mini....

[@JosephLorentzen]

@@pauly7218 No doubt that it is basically a good machine. What I was saying is that they are even improving the Pro over what was sold a couple of months back.

[@ragnarmarnikulasson3626]

thanks for these videos man, really helpful

[@pauly7218]

No problem!

[@zachdonaldson4400]

Thank you for this. I ended up having layers in my prints shift as I was printing. Hearing clicks I thought it was the sensor being too low knocking things so I did the paper trick. I got it where it looks good at 0 and it won't let me go further away than that. The lines are slightly flatter than before, but are straight and stick well. I'm trying another print now to see if it helps.

[@pauly7218]

It seems clear that this magnetic cover has a different thickness than the original Matt. This means you need to adjust the "offset" on our printer. This would apply anytime you make a change that could potentially affect the thickness of the bed either thinner on thicker. I hope this made sense...

[@enricob]

Late to this video but, I saw you are using a glass bed. Could you tell me if I have to make the Z spacer as thick as my glass? Or it doesn't matter? Is the auto leveling working with the glass? Best regards.

[@pauly7218]

Sorry - Still use the original bed. Only have glass on my Ender 3

[@plugtheheliflyer]

I done the sencor screw on mine last night the head of the screw came of could not see how it went back on.now looking for new sencor any ideas were I can get one.monoprice don't have them.

[@jasontelemax372]

Got my mini Pro yesterday. Interesting upgrade from the version 2. Have you had to change the nozzle yet? Does the black silicone cover around the nozzle come off easily for nozzle replacement?

[@pauly7218]

I haven't on this machine but have on my other and yes, they come off easy....

[@TrendingPendingVideos]

Does taking the tape off I presume kills mY warranty? So idk if I can do that?

[@ubacow7109]

Is the Y axis supposed to be always red unless printing?

[@TrendingPendingVideos]

Help, I finally got my printer setup today. I Print with normal PLA and tried temps of 195 to 200 and then ive setup cura settings. But its okay apart from I Get LINES in between my print ??? like some layers it can be fine but then the next layer will have a small gap. and its just random gaps??? im not sure whats causing it? if you want pictures let me know and i wil upload them Kind of putting me off because idk what to change. Also when u auto level does that also auto level the z axis so i dont have to change the bed correction or?? because not sure if thats somthing to do with it but idk

[@ruvyfpv4398]

Hey how you doing thanks for all the help I have 1 question. I had a really bad jam so I took everything apart and when it jammed the plastic tube where the filament runs thru popped off of the fitting how do you correctly put it back because it won't just stay when I put in in and pull the tab a little back. Hopefully u see this and respond thanks really appreciate it👌

[@pauly7218]

The tube is called a Bowden Tube. The connectors that came on the printer aren't very good, fortunately good replacements are super cheap. I suggest you replace your tube with Capricorn Tube and new/better fittings. Either way, the tube simply pushes in to the connector. It goes in pretty far. To remove the tube from the connector, depress the ring and then draw the tube out. On the hot end it is extra important that the tube is all the way in or you can get ugly clogs!

[@ruvyfpv4398]

That's a bunch very informative and super helpful I really appreciate it! Keep up the good work my man!!!

[@DanielSmith-mi6gk]

So by using this method, are you bypassing the auto leveling feature?

[@pauly7218]

Daniel Smith NO! You still need to auto level! This just sets the proper spacing between the nozzle and bed and really only needs to be done once. I level For each print to be sure everything is good

[@greginfla_1]

How about a video that shows how to unclog this model?

[@pauly7218]

I'll make you a deal, as soon as I get a clog it will be turned in to a video!

[@greginfla_1]

I don’t think I could ask for any more than that. Thank you.

[@sharicoronado-martinez6444]

Hi, do you provide individual help for the monoprice printer to make cookie cutters?

[@pauly7218]

I can try. feel free to email me at [e-mail]

[@nixaad]

Hi Pauly! How do I get into the menu @ 14:29? I couldn't find a way to do it.

[@Keeping_IT_Simple]

What was your z offset AFTER you adjusted the sensor ? I am currently bidding on one of these printers on eBay , keep those fingers crossed for me please .

[@pauly7218]

IF you adjust the sensor you can get to like -0.08 or so. The main point is, don't fret a huge offset - it's not abnormal!

[@Keeping_IT_Simple]

@@pauly7218 many thanks for that . I won the eBay auction so just have to wait for my next monoprice ( I currently have a select mini v2 ) to arrive from Germany . This one is used ( as my first one was ) and am hopeful the next one will be in as good a condition as the first.

[@Keeping_IT_Simple]

My Mini Pro arrived yesterday & I've managed to dial in the offset setting ( in my case it is -0.33 ) on the stock build plate. Had a bit of trouble with bed adhesion ( my printer is 2nd user & its stock buildtek bed shows signs of misuse ) so i have started using Elmers glue stick which after a couple of test prints seems to work well . My next task is to use this printer to print a z-offset spacer for my other printer ( Mini Select V2 ) which is suffering from warping of the print bed so I am going to install a glass bed that i hope will eliminate this problem? Once that's done & I'm happy I will probably also install a glass bed on the Mini Pro. I have already ordered 2 glass beds from china supplier which have arrived but they are differing thickness ( by approx .5mm!! ) so i will have to ensure that each glass plate is only used on the printer for which it was calibrated So far so good thanks to your help TTFN

[@justinwallace8137]

I just chatted online with monoprice about the adjustment screw on the sensor. They told me that, no matter how you adjust it, the sensor resets when it finds the bed during homing and at the beginning of prints. I’m pretty confused by all this. My thinking was that I could adjust to a glass bed this way, but they tell me it is impossible! How have your results been over time?

[@Outofthedust]

You'll have to adjust your z stop switch to go to glass. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2795863 the Printer needs to know its at the bottom to work no mater how you level it.

[@jimawhitaker]

new and have yet to buy a printer. Do you have to include that -.82 in every model or is it stored in the printer?

[@pauly7218]

Your offset and mine will be different!!!! -0.82 is MY OFFSET! once set, it is there and will never change unless you change the bed or a nozzle or something.... Be sure to find your own offset!

[@mooosestang]

I all ready messed up my buildtak surface with a razor blade and now i'm looking to add a piece of glass. Have you done this? I'm not sure how to put in the offset to compensate for the glass.

[@pauly7218]

measure the thickness of the two and adjust your offset for the new thickness of your build surface!

[@mooosestang]

@@pauly7218 I was thinking it was that simple, but i keep reading about Z axis spacers. maybe there isn't enough adjustment in the offset menu.

[@pauly7218]

@@mooosestang There should be plenty, but honestly, If things are running good, why not just replace the original surface - mine works great....

[@mooosestang]

@@pauly7218 My aluminum plate is warped, it may have been warped from the start or it started to warp after a few prints. Heating and cooling thin aluminum is not a great idea. It's so warped now that auto leveling isn't helping. Any part of the print towards the middle won't even touch the build surface on the first layer. I got it working with a 5x7 picture frame glass panel and i used a z spacer just in case. i just slowly adjusted the offset. I can say that glass is so much easier to print on using pla, but much harder to get the print off of so i'm using elmers glue stick more as a release agent than a bonding agent. I'm not really surprised the aluminum warped, i'm surprised it warped so quickly though.

[@mooosestang]

I also will be printing mostly tpu and want the ultra smooth glass surface to give me that glossy finish on the bottom of my prints.

[@zachdonaldson4400]

What sort of nozzels do you use? I bought a kit of e3d nozzels, but I can't adjust the tolerance out enough to use them. I was hoping to use some different diameters. Thanks

[@zachdonaldson4400]

dang, now it's not adjusting back to the original nozzle either. I'll contact monoprice and see what they say.

[@pauly7218]

I just use the stock .4 nozzle in brass. If I need anything more elaborate, I can change the nozzle on my Ender 3....

[@DJ.1001]

My mini pro doesn't have that adjustment screw and my sensor is hitting the printed material. Is this printer DOA?

[@pauly7218]

The screw is behind a piece of black tape. Hard to see, but should be there.....

[@DavideNastri]

Hi all and thanks Pauly for this great video. I have a very weird scenario... I've set printer to 0.11, I print a perfect, lovely, amazing cat (the example from factory). Whatever else I print is... A rat's nest! What is wrong? :O

[@pauly7218]

probably still too big a distance between nozzle and bed. Cat prints on a raft. You need it to print good with no raft! Change cat support from raft to skirt and try printing. cancel if skirt doesn't stick good, and adjust offset! I hope that helps...

[@DavideNastri]

@@pauly7218 Hello and thanks for the great help! I have been printing like a madman for the whole night and the only moment I got a decent result was... When I reduced resolution! Is there a resolution range (best to worst) that you recommend for this printer? Thanks and sorry for taking your time.

[@jerikromero7042]

Me podrías ayudar?? No puedo mover el eje z desde el menú, si imprime bien en todos los ejes, pero no puedo levantar el eje z para sacar la cama

[@jarekkrol5773]

My bed is not leveled. During the autoleveling.... First point is kind of OK; point 2 is about 500um high. point 3 in 100um low and point 4 300um low. is there any way to fix it ? thanks in advance

[@pauly7218]

It sounds like you have a warped bed, which is common. What your describing doesn't sound too bad, so as long as you have the offset correct, you should be fine, and the auto level should adjust as it goes.... If not, contact MP for a new bed....

[@jarekkrol5773]

@@pauly7218 Thank you Paul

[@ragnarmarnikulasson3626]

how many times ? 30ish?

[@pauly7218]

Perhaps! LOL... It sure aint easy, but you only need to do it once!

[@viktorrene]

So if you do this properly you can skip the "Cura cure"?

[@pauly7218]

I wouldn't as it is a darned good starting point that prints reliably time and again. When you feel good about it, you can start experimenting and increasing quality. Enjoy!

[@viktorrene]

@@pauly7218 I see, would have been nice to just be able to use the predefined Cura presents fine, normal, rough etc.

[@pauly7218]

Give it a shot and let us know how it comes out! I discovered the Cura Cure prior to figuring out the issues with the printer so, you never know... @@viktorrene

[@TheTranq]

So what does the "auto level" button even do then?

[@pauly7218]

It measures the location of the bed in four locations and the adjusts the printing process to keep the print level

[@TheTranq]

@@pauly7218 hmm I see. So do you use that alongside the manual adjustment?

[@pauly7218]

Yep!!! Set your offset and it stays that way unless you mess with the machine, but level the bed before every print!!!

[@TheTranq]

@@pauly7218 Ok great thanks and I am still confused (the user manual really doesn't explain anything) but the offset is the distance between the sensor and bed? Does that mean that extruder is at the exact same height as the sensor?

[@pauly7218]

@@TheTranq The offset determines how close/far the nozzel is from the bed - Critical. The sensor is only there to determine the height of the bed in four points to see if the bed is level. If the bed is not level, the machine will then use the measurements to adjust the print to accommodate for the difference. It has nothing to do with setting the gap between the nozzle and bed....

[@JosephKosofsky]

What is the unit of the offset?

[@pauly7218]

mm's. You can see we are moving in very small steps. Still, stay patient and sneak up on it...

[@adrianr.5444]

i was doing this and my encentric screw fell out and stripped when i tried to put it back in :( n

[@pauly7218]

Oh man! That sucks!

[@paulwills7902]

Unfortunately this printer has become a major headache, I am now on replacement printer number three which is pretty good going considering my original purchase is just over a month. First issue was touch screen LCD total failure, new printer sent. After one week the new printer developed a fault where the stepper motors would not move according to the touch screen controls. Re-seated all the sockets etc another printer received. Credit where credit is due the customer service has been excellent but I cant help but feel sorry for the staff who are having to sort out these issues when some basic Quality Control could avoid many of the issues people have been experiencing. This 3rd printer has now an issue but I have repaired it with parts from printer number 2 which I am yet to send back. Touch wood number 3 is now producing excellent results again but my confidence in this Company is almost non existent. I have been refunded in full with no questions asked and they have provided me with free returns. However my point here is not the cost or the service its the fact that 3 consecutive machines failed which seems excessive and a failure rate that surely cant be acceptable to any company. I know MP is a US company so maybe our standards and expectations are higher in Europe. While the 3rd Machine continues to produce excellent quality prints it really does stand amongst the best but reliability uuuum maybe 3 successive machines is acceptable and I am expecting too much