Setup Caseta Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch Starter Kit

[@cj10cj10]

thanks for your help.. i have had these for 3 years and never set this up, finally plugged in my bridge, waited for it to self update.. then set up soooo easily.. i am still in shock. like giving candy to a baby

[@qasion]

Today I installed the same kit. I think they did some improvement. After I programmed the Dimmer, I wanted to do the Pico like you did here, but the App flashed, "It' s already programmed." Sure it was, I played with the lights through the App, and it's performed flawlessly. Other thing, I plugged the hub into the router, yellow port. It didn't work, so I re-plugged the hub into the blue port on the router, it worked.

[@monohydrate2]

wow this is extremely convenient, thanks for showing how easy it is to install

[@juverparadox]

Thank you! Informative, simple and to the point. Excellent 👍

[@reelroyals3222]

great video!

[@glockman9c]

Can you use the 4 scene pico on regular home caseta base? It is a pro sku but will it work on non-pro bridge?

[@Piolin50980]

Excellent explanation

[@luisjauregui677]

Awesome video thank you very much

[@1Brain4Wheels]

Very helpful video, thanks man!

[@jaybrown9067]

What if I don't have the switches that has the wires that you connect to the power and I only have the pico remote with the batteries, can the pico remote work directly with the smart hub if I have the power packs?

[@cj10cj10]

Oh, I actually have a question please after I initially set up my switches is there any way to unplug my bridge from the ethernet and connect via Wi-Fi only? Or is the only way for my schedules to work will be having my bridge connected via wired ethernet?

[@T6Tarek]

There is no neutral on a standard 3 way switch. The wire maybe white but it's a traveler and carries power

[@reviewdailylife3490]

I was referencing to smart switches not a standard switch. Some of Lutron’s smart switches have a neutral to function. These switches generally work with less minimum loads and if the load is disconnected the switch still functions.. the switch shown in video with no neutral requires a load to stay online. If you have a switch with a neutral and don’t have a neutral available rewiring will have to be done or a non neutral switch would work better for you as long as you can meet the load requirements to make it function

[@theblackat50]

Can i just turn my light on from the Lutron app on my way home each day if i dont want to program the lights to come on?

[@neomatrix2722]

So I have a question the only internet I have in my home is through my mobile device which I can do tether a hotspot will the work with this in other words instead of me having to plug the device into a router which I don't own could I tether it to my hotspot on my phone to act as a router

[@reviewdailylife3490]

No.. you need a hub and the hub has to be “plugged in” to a router.. the hub can then wirelessly control the lights.. i imagine they do it this way to prevent interference.. between lutrons clear tech rf technology devices and the wifi, the lutrons devices work on a different band length (frequency)

[@SmallTownBigDreamsKindofGirl]

Does the bridge work with the older maestro dimming switch too, and not necessarily buy the new dimming switches?

[@danieldesandre353]

No.. maestro and caseta are not compatible with each other.. lutron makes awesome systems but there great at having different tiers of systems that are completely separate from each other and only ra2 select and radio ra2 have some sort of compatibility unfortunately, even that then requires a dealer to be involved.. Except for the pico remotes.. there fairly universal to the different systems to some degree

[@vicentedelgado3001]

Thanks!!

[@FirstLastOne]

I have been using Caseta dimmers for over 5 years and it's been a hit and miss depending on what you're dimming. Caseta dimmers work but are limited by their outdated, analogue dimming circuitry which Lutron has been using for well over 30 years. It's old and inefficient technology that's very limited. Expect to loose about 12% of your supply voltage to the dimmer's antiquated technology. It was really noticeable back in the Halogen lighting days with Lutron's previous dimmer lines and still noticeable now with the Caseta line when you use higher end LED PAR20, PAR30 and PAR38 LEDs with a super high output and high CRI. What you see with a voltage meter at the e26 socket with the dimmer at full setting is around 103V to 106V on a 120V supply which ends up taking the edge off high performance LED lights and making them look average. If you are only using average, middle of the road LEDs and/or almost always dimming them, then it's no problem as you won't miss having 12% less light output at the top to begin with. How Lutron can call these 'smart light controls' when they are still using 30+ year old analogue dimming technology is beyond embarrassing. Why not go completely digital when the light sources these days are for the most part digital?

[@Mafioso1731]

What's the difference between P-BDG-PKG1W-C and P-BDG-PKG1W-A ?

[@vicentedelgado3001]

How far away can the bridge be from the cassetta smart switch?

[@reviewdailylife3490]

Ive had Wall dimmers and switches work up to roughly 90 feet clear line of sight.. But depending on obstructions and what not 30-60 feet is the general rule of thumb

[@STMK02]

Hey Bud. Does the smart bridge has to be directly plugged into the wall or you can use a extension? Just want to know if it works like one of those network extenders for wifi?

[@reviewdailylife3490]

The smart bridge needs to be plugged in using a ethernet cable to the home network.. as long as you are connected it should work i believe 2 network hops are allowed total.. call lutron to verify if needed..

[@kevinpullus3079]

3 screws could be a 3 way switch..... D A N G E R ! ! !

[@robfitzpatrick6873]

Careful with the websight he recommends its fake and could reveal your info.