Shapeoko Pro Testing in Plywood

[@langrock74]

Whenever I look at other CNCs, I always come back to the Shapeoko and am impressed by the design and thought that went into the machine and it’s rigidity. The Pro looks like a Great Tool.

[@ClintonCaraway-CNC]

I'd like to say what Carbide 3D did for Jon Richards was just Amazing. I've always supported C3D but now I vow to shout your praises to anyone who listened forever!!

[@jamesrusso6739]

Looks awesome! Just need to wait for the XXL Pro to get back in stock so I can order one!

[@auhopu]

Hi Winston. Keep in mind that the 700Watts of an AC router are not the some as the 700Watts of a VFD spindle. The former Wattage refers to input (power consumption) the latter Wattage refers to output (real cutting power on the bit). As per Gwizard your third recipe was 372Watts. That is dangerously close to your AC router's output capacity (which again is NOT 700W) and I don't think it is sustainable for long periods, you risk smoking the router. The Pro does seem a lot more capable, but the AC router is the weak link now. (EDIT: This is why somebody else chose a VFD for their Pro - which of course comes with the relevant bump in $ ).

[@gmack4097]

You're right about router power ratings, but unfortunately some of the Chinese HF Spindles also seem to be rated on input VA rather than output power, so "buyer beware"! Also GWizard can only crudely estimate cutting power requirements. It uses a K-Factor of 19 cu-in/min/HP for MDF and all types of plywood, 10cu-in/min/HP for all types "alloys" of "hardwood", and 30 cu-in/min/HP for all "softwoods". Audacity spectrograms (kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5qwY2NjrNR4hc0) of Winston's cuts indicate that the router really wasn't struggling in any of them. It's speed controller was able to maintain a reasonably constant speed. That's why it would be quite useful for Winston to monitor and log router input power (which is easy to do) in this endeavor.

[@ellajane9947]

I am sure that he knows that

[@idankk]

I really wanted to get on the Pro train, but it left a lot to be desired for me. For example, no spindle on/off. No upgrade path to a more serious spindle than a router. No word on tool changer. It's a really nice machine and a definite improvement for those looking to up their game from the S3 though.

[@vengefulcaptain6338]

ATC spindles are far too heavy for this machine so that's never going to be an option. A router is 2 or 3 KG and a good ATC spindle is 15KG or more.

[@langrock74]

Actually, the spindle on/off could be easily done through a relay. Not sure if their controller has a spindle or otherwise unused output, but those could be wired to open and close a relay. Otherwise, you can probably use CNCjs or other software to implement this. Shouldn’t be too hard.

[@gmack4097]

@@vengefulcaptain6338 Here's one that weighs 5.9 kg www.damencnc.com/userdata/file/5000_Teknomotor_ATC41-A-ISO20-SN_Flyer.pdf

[@dylanbahnan1485]

I just gave this a try with the carbide 1/4in downcut (#251) on a Pro and at 9.53mm there was visible chatter. Although I was using Baltic Birch ply, which looks tougher than the stuff in the video, it's nothing close to the finish of the pumpkin here. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong and open to suggestions!

[@alexon2010]

You could create a Course, dubbed in several languages ... logical starting with Portuguese, teaching all of this ... even for other people who have CNC! As a Case here in Brazil .... Imagine how many copies of this course you could sell worldwide ...

[@gmack4097]

Maybe it would be useful to also measure and document router power during these tests?

[@jefferynichols2549]

This is the CNC i Want. Is there a 4 Axis accessory for this. Or is there a suggested 3rd party 4Axis that will work with this?

[@callmeasuka5849]

its a little bit off topic, great video by the way, have you considered bull nose endmills for roughing aluminium?

[@fierceflyer5]

Great info

[@koos42]

On my Shapeoko 3XL, being a learner, I got greedy and overloaded my 1/4 upcut, it turned itself into a screw while machining, and pulled itself out of the collet, and deep into the spoilboard, before it got stuck spinning, nearly started a fire. I have since found some better resources for figuring out depth of cut... But is this normal? Is this why you're using a down cutter?

[@carbide3d]

The downcut is primarily for cut quality, it does not pull up wood fibers so it leaves an exceptionally clean edge.

[@ellajane9947]

Ya what Winston said

[@koos42]

@@carbide3d I figured the down cut leaves a cleaner edge having stock to shear against, but I figure the augering force of the bit would drive up axially, which is safer than if your bit wants to auger into the material, as mind did. I don't know if I set my bit too deep in the collet, preventing good clamping, or what. But regardless, if your bit slips from being overloaded, slipping up, effectively reduces DOC, whereas slipping down causes all sorts of potentially negative consequences. My takeaways were: - DOC < diameter of cutter is way too deep in slotting on a Shapeoko 3 (works fine on my Shaper Origin, but I am the feedrate control). - I have a lot more to learn of speeds and feeds, and need to start my own dope sheet. - shallow is safer than deep, waiting for extra passes is faster than replacing broken parts or fighting a fire. My open question is, still: How deep do I set the cutter in the collet? Should the back of the cutter poke out the back of the collet? Should I set it no farther back than the slits in the collet? I've seen all sorts of conversation about this online, but no definitive answer.

[@kazolar]

what t-track clamps are you using here, I can't seem to find them for purchase

[@ClintonCaraway-CNC]

This is a build in t-track base. It isn't available separately.

[@checinieoszukasz]

Nice

[@liska2203]

When can we expect the XL pro?

[@guyi1464]

And standard and price ranges?

[@JulienCope]

According to the shapeoko pro page, 2 weeks ago! I would love to know this also!

[@prince2thethrone]

will you have a black friday sale?

[@carbide3d]

Yes, it is already active. Full details here: carbide3d.com/blog/2020/black-friday-2020/

[@prince2thethrone]

will you make a BitZero V2 for Shapeoko XXL?

[@carbide3d]

Yes, but we will not have inventory ready until next month: shop.carbide3d.com/collections/accessories/products/bitzero-v2?variant=32936948236349

[@prince2thethrone]

@@carbide3d this will fit ALL of the models? I seen it used ONLY on the nomad 3.

[@langrock74]

The version of Carbide Create in this video looks different. As a general note, I think that the software is the weakest point of Carbide‘s offerings. There are some really basic things it cannot do, like resizing a rectangle without keeping the aspect ratio;-)

[@langrock74]

Downloaded the latest version from September and the issue with resizing recatngles has been fixed. Thanks!

[@langrock74]

Also, the new software version does indeed look like the one in this video. Mine was from July and hence still used a different set of widgets.