How to Build a Milwaukee PACKOUT Trailer Tester [M12 Powered]

[@oldsranch]

when using a hole saw to go thru plastic, spin it BACKWARDS! works like a champ.

[@georgef1176]

I would just Power probe it but for the regular person It’s a great idea!

[@mrmotofy]

But hard to go around and check all the lights while holding down the momentary button

[@TheMadWookiee]

I work on trailers for a living I think this is a great idea. Our cart we built I have a single 20a circuit breaker for the main power feed to my switches and we don’t use a flasher it’s less to fail. The m12 should be adequate to energize the brakes.

[@FixitFred]

Awesome project. My only recommendation would be to incorporate a turn signal relay just so that when you test the turn signals it functions exactly like it would when connected on the vehicle

[@Shoptoolreviews]

Yes, we mentioned that in the video. You can add an LED flasher inline to show the turn signal in action if you wanted. Thanks for watching.

[@walterk1221]

I don't understand the desire for this modification. The flasher simply applies and removes voltage to the lamp. Unnecessary and goofy.

[@chainarmor448]

@@walterk1221exactly lol that is a completely useless feature

[@nkoch81]

@@walterk1221 i agree…if u have to flash it just push the button in and out real fast and save $10 😂

[@Carelock]

I did the same project with a plastic ammo box from harbor freight that cost $3 with a coupon, an old plug from work, and push buttons from temu that cost $8. I used din rail and terminals bc I had them on hand already. My adapter was $10 from Temu also and came in under $30 all in. It looks just like the one IPA sells for $175. Thank you for posting this!!!’

[@Shoptoolreviews]

Thanks for sharing. I'm sure the ammo box worked great too. Thanks for watching.

[@Carelock]

@@Shoptoolreviews Love your channel and a great idea!!!

[@michaelrickman3161]

Personally, I'd make the box as water tight ~(IP68) as possible to protect the investment of all those switches, wires, and connectors. E6000 or Shoe Goo would work well around holes drilled into the box, as well as painting the interior of the box with superhydrophobic coating. My son-in-law uses 20 Volt drill batteries as jumpstarters, so I'd integrate that as well. Seems like it'd be a time saver. Keep up the good work.

[@Rusty.1776]

It's really a neat idea. Saves you from moving the pickup around just to check/ repair the trailer lights. I'm heading to Home Depot tomorrow! Thanks for the ideas. This is really going to help with my 4 trailers!

[@1969Kakashi]

This is a nice design. I "invented" a trailer light tester 20 years ago using a couple PS1270 batteries. I had a separate function to test the brake lights and then electric brakes. The E-Brakes would draw down the voltage. Over time I was able to ascertain if the brakes were working correctly by the amount of the voltage drop. I started on a new build a couple weeks ago and plan on using a hall effect sensor to be able to monitor current draw. I was curious if anyone else had done a trailer light tester so here I am. No KZbin when I built the first one. You've given me some ideas, so thanks!

[@PredatorOmnivore]

Hall Effect Sensor - hmm and a whole bunch of wasted time building some kind of circuit that tells you what the Hall Effect Sensor is sensing. Ever heard of an ammeter to measure current draw? You can get a really cheap combination Volt - Ammeter and really know what the source and sinks are doing.

[@1969Kakashi]

@@PredatorOmnivore lol....simpleton. Not your time to waste, bub.

[@1969Kakashi]

@@PredatorOmnivore So... you may be stuck in the 80's, my man. With a bundled display USING A HALL EFFECT SENSOR you can read current draw without running everything through an old timey ammeter. Pretty damn easy to integrate. In fact...I've already built the thing. Works great.

[@welndmn]

I like it! I need one but my feature suggestions would be to mount some bullet lights to the box as well and a truck end plug so it tests the truck end plug as well.

[@michaelosmon]

If you have a trailer with a lot of lights you might consider using relays to save your buttons. This is a great idea thanks for sharing

[@joshuaskirvin]

Most switches made by reputable manufacturers are rated high enough for something as simple as a trailer light.

[@michaelosmon]

@@joshuaskirvin some trailer light circuits have more than a light in them. Not all trailers are the same. If that will work for you do it.

[@joshuaskirvin]

@@michaelosmon I know plenty about circuits and how they work. I am an Industrial Electrical Maintenance Tech and I've been an Electrician my entire adult working life. Residential, commercial, industrial and line work. Most trailers aren't complicated enough to need relays to work the lights. Especially for a short enough period to just troubleshoot and turn it back off. You're not wrong, but it's usually not necessary either.

[@szki272]

I would have put in a single fuse to the main power, or better yet a circuit breaker. I also would have put the buttons in one of the pockets at the hinge area. The plug in the other. That would have reduced the internal wiring greatly. Plus all of it would have moved together. Then build a divider so the rest of the box can be used for storage without worrying about damaging anything other than the battery wires.

[@ArchCityCraftsman]

Awesome idea, you killed it! Would be awesome to set voice and max music to the same volume in post. I found myself constantly adjusting Volume. Good music choice though ha ha thank you for the project idea!

[@ianbelletti6241]

You can get label makers that print on heat shrink tubing. This would help in troubleshooting down the road if you ever need to fix the trailer tester. Even a pack of cable markers would be useful.

[@brandenboatright2309]

This is awesome! TSA wouldn’t let me through security with it though

[@tonytan0]

This is awesome. I wouldn’t have a use for it yet. Reminds me of the old random things I made out of Altoids tins. Thanks!

[@bradsobik5599]

Swap fuses to breakers so it's cost efficient and is designed for troubleshooting electrical issues.

[@willmoore2011]

This is a great idea. Built something similar in the shop. You could use a 100whatt globe as a main power fuse in place of the fuse box. This way you can determine a short in the trailer circuit without having to replace fuses in the field every time there is a short

[@jonnyworldaol]

You could add a flasher and use it for temporary hauling a trailer with a truck that has messed up wiring harnes.

[@baysidemarine9606]

@shoptoolreviews - I LOVE IT! Gonna make a couple for my techs. Couple suggestions for V2, mount the switches along the side instead of the lid so that you don't lose the function of the top cleats. I also plan to mount the plugs in the rear wall and the battery towards the rear to still hopefully keep as many of the bins in it as possible for harnesses, terminals, etc. Great job and keep these videos coming!

[@Shoptoolreviews]

Great ideas! We didn't really care to have something stacked on top of this packout, but we did make sure to have the bottom untouched. This allows it to stack on top of other PACKOUT units. We are definitely making a list of ideas for V2. Thanks for watching.

[@danlux4954]

@@Shoptoolreviews when you do V2 I’ll buy this one from you.

[@KevinReinartz]

What I did with mine, Not a puckout kit (but I think it would all fit) is have the vehicle side tester integrated in as well. basically some lights for the outputs of the truck (you'll need a high load to simulate the trailer brake though. I use a headlight bulb). then you can loop into itself to do a self test.

[@mhack9881]

I like this one...water tight and room for parts to fix the problem. Good job Tim. Thanks for sharing.

[@MrDintimid8or]

This is not water tight. He drilled several holes in the pack out.

[@joecnc3341]

Nice Work!!! Liked-Subscribed! Thank you for sharing. Thank You for the detailed parts list and where to find them.

[@mrbakerjjim]

did this years ago with a jump start pack. but added an extra long cord so i could stand behind the trailer. and not have to walk back and forth.

[@garybergstrom3978]

I have one I made 25 years ago but it uses a lawn tractor battery so it’s kind of heavy but for a trailer shop this is the most used tester there. I have used the mutt ones but they don’t last that long. I like the idea of the pack out system because you can take the necessary tools and supplies with you. I would use auto resetting circuit breakers,a flasher for signal lights and more battery power because when you are testing brake magnets they draw a lot of current. How about making the truck side tester with a couple of brake magnets to show a simple load with a voltage output meter to test brake output of the controller.

[@dandexinventor]

Great idea, I could have used this dozens of times. I will orient mine like a trailer as well as use button LED lights so I can see them lit when troubleshooting the actual trailer light if not working but supposed to be. I want a blinker socket to test blinker moduales and lastly, I'm not using my Milwaukee battery, but rather a gel batt I have been using to test each light. Thanks!

[@johncolasanto605]

AWESOME idea & job... I built something similar to this years ago..and included a plug/lights so you can test the tow vehicle circuit..

[@jamesrahn8339]

Now it needs LED lighting i side for esthetics! Oh and next level would be a remote control to the relays so you can stand at the back of the trailer and run your test. But this is awesomeness and im going to make one...thanks!

[@classictractorprofessor3747]

Great Job, I've been thinking about building something similar to this for a while now. I'm always the guy in the shop that gets stuck with all the trailer light issues when they come in, and most people just drop off their trailer, which leaves me having to hook my truck up to it to power everything. Never thought about using a PACKOUT though, thats a great idea to be able to take it along with everything else I take out into the field with me. The only changes I can think of would be using circuit breakers instead of fuses, and I would probably install more types of trailer plugs than just the 7 way, rather than relying on adapters. Though that is the most common anymore, a lot of the old farm trailers I work on here still have the old 6 way round plug, I spent a good amount of time chasing some issues on a trailer last week before I finally discovered my 7-6 adapter was screwed up internally.

[@gregorywise4383]

Good idea only changes i would recommend versus using an M12 battery I might add through bolts and thicker Guage wire to the fuse block and master switchto make places to attach clamps for a jumper pack to connect to account for higher demand items. I also would add inline relays as has been recommended a few times to relieve the excessive draw on switches of higher demand systems so you get more life and don't burn them out.

[@lorki212]

My only addition to this would be a voltage readout for testing the 12volt section. I have had trailers with batteries that didn't charge due to a bad plug. Not sure how to get the readout off the trailer though.

[@joshuaking34]

Great idea. Going to replicate this with a ToughSystem half size box.

[@ermannodangelo4087]

Great video and useful project. Would be nice to get a diagram of how you wired everything up if available.

[@shr00m7]

This is a pretty sweet project, and pretty useful to boot.

[@StephenBalmer-x8o]

Would like the wireing diagram for wiring to fuse panel,and also links for switches panel etc,excellent video. Steve from the UK.

[@laurohinojosa1335]

I like it,want one!... Did few trailers before,have not stopped!

[@xandersmith9832]

Can you make a version for semi trailers next ?

[@erickbarroso767]

Should be the same thing just with a semi trailer plug instead.

[@xandersmith9832]

@@erickbarroso767 wasn't sure with the abs

[@erickbarroso767]

@@xandersmith9832 yeah the 12v auxiliary should power the ABS, you just have to wire it up however suits your purpose.

[@xandersmith9832]

Much appreciated 🙏

[@ianbelletti6241]

Without a compressor it won't test the air brakes but it will test all the lighting. You'd just need to change the electrical connector.

[@dewaynecushman2120]

Great project! Could you add a link to the M12 adapter that was used to plug in the circuit? I'd love to see a project with a direct connect battery.

[@cujoedaman]

Been trying to find a vid like this, most are just "here's what I built", but never show anything of HOW. I think version 2 should incorporate a (digital) voltage meter, one that reads both current coming in and draw. I watched another vid where they had one and it helps to show if the brakes are drawing current or not (and everything else too). One comment on the vid said that trailer brakes draw only so much current, so all you have to do is divide the number of the current by how many brakes you have. Might not be perfect, but at least you can narrow down if they're all working or not. Side note, totally gonna buy this pack-out box and adapt it to use my Ryobi batteries, just to piss with people :D

[@aonomus]

For what it's worth, the M12 power adapters have an internal SMT 1A fuse that is exceedingly annoying to replace. That fuse will pop before any of the other fuses on the distribution block.

[@Shoptoolreviews]

That is correct. Which, for most common trailers, you're probably not going to over-amp, unless there's a dead short. But you're correct, that's why it probably makes more sense to just go with spade connectors off the battery with an inline 10 or 20A fuse. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@jeffnorris4]

Great project v2 needs a custom printed circuit board, turn signal relay, and 3d printed m12 adapter in a smaller enclosure that fits inside the box.

[@walterk1221]

Turn signal relay is absolutely useless *unless* it is the *EXACT* relay in the tow vehicle.

[@carlleague3036]

A lot of good suggestions in here for V2. I like the idea of compartmentalization inside the box so you can carry extra parts, bulbs, fuses etc. one other addition I would make (I don’t even know how if its possible b/c Im not a wiring / electrical guy) find a way to store the M12 battery charger so you can just plug the box in w/o taking the battery out. And or make it for larger battery or multiple batteries for testing of brakes etc. still love the idea, seems way cheaper than buying Milwaukee’s self contained box.

[@edwardodom7346]

Whole reason of this video is just to show you it can be done at home with whatever brand of power tools you already have.😎

[@stephenwoitalewicz8445]

This is a brilliant idea.

[@rosstga]

this is a great build i have been working on a system too. mine is wireless

[@rileycoble5842]

I made something similar to check the truck plugs. It has an extension cord so I can sit in the seat and see.

[@delliott777]

Can ya explain a bit more? What are “truck plugs”? Etc

[@rileycoble5842]

@@delliott777 the trucks trailer plugs. I’ve fixed a box that has lights that tell which is brakes, turning signals, etc. The box also has a place for the plug adapters. It even has a spot to plug in a ground cable so I can make sure the ground isn’t out. I tried to think of everything on it.

[@James-gg4ld]

I do not see a link for the M12 adapter? The link for the M12 FUEL Kit is for Milwaukee tool kits, some with M12 batteries. Is the M12 adapter in this video available separately?

[@mattculley6656]

Excellent video! Keep up the great content you guys put out! More ideas like this please!

[@Shoptoolreviews]

Thanks! Will do!

[@PeterHatch-mx7zc]

Watched again realy good👍

[@abrahamshell9594]

Not gonna lie, my boat trailer doesn't have lights nor is it registered. But if it did, I could definitely see a use for this.

[@chrishaynes7899]

The only thing I think you are missing is a brake controller for the brakes. I had my truck brake controller showing short and the rv repair shop used a similar tester and it show good. They were blameing my truck wiring as the problem. When I had them connect my trailer to there shop truck it also showed shorted. Turns out it was a shorted wire in the brake housing.

[@finster56]

If you didn't have the 4 wires on the switches for light, how would you wire this same system using just toggle switches?

[@ZaganStoanes]

I would move the main power button to inside of the box so it didn't accidentally get turned on while bouncing around in my truck.

[@danlux4954]

It’s packout, shouldn’t be bouncing around.

[@ManCaverTools]

That is an awesome idea bro.

[@rileydj8764]

very nice, but the Milwaukee link for the 12 power socket take us to a tool instead

[@gotofair]

What plug do i need for the round 12v 3amp plug (comes out of battery pack into the fuse block) thanks

[@henryolrogge8241]

Great video. thanks for the step by step. Question with the switches on top can you still lock a packout unit on top side? Keep up the great channel

[@Plumber1339]

So I made one plugged my trailer with a 7 way into it. The only lights that didnt work is the brake light one. Plug the trailer into the truck the lights on the trailer works.. any suggestion

[@danlux4954]

The brake button isn’t a light, it actuates the brakes on the trailer.

[@Kami8705]

I think if I was going to make this, I'd make another inside cover, and leave the lid. You open it up, plug in a battery, or have one in it already, and then have your buttons accessible

[@zanehaselden5573]

@shoptoolreview where do you put a flasher relay? Trying to make it with a flash mode for turn signals.

[@davegunner2717]

Thank you .. should post link on IG 😂 as I saw this on there 😊

[@georgestweeter]

I might have to make this for work. Probably wont use a Packout box though

[@szki272]

Used a small ammo can for mine. For power, I used a lighter plug. So I can plug into multiple portable power sources. I also saved space by not using a giant fuse box and just fused the main power. All the wires fit in the box plus the plug-in truck side testers.

[@briandaum267]

i wood add more trailer plugs to it like the 4 pin and 7 pin semi i think thare is a 5 and 6 pin to and volt meter for battery life

[@moparkr]

would definately have to upgrade the input power cable for testing any trailer with regular bulbs, not led ones.

[@tylercousins7779]

Brake and signal is the same light but different wires. You should set it up to test both. You did do an awesome job on it though. But my real question is why not just hook up a vehicle to the trailer? I have 3 trailers. Never needed a set up like this.

[@danlux4954]

To test the trailer, I’ve had to test on multiple trailers to check wether it’s the truck wiring or the trailer wiring.

[@arealmaintenanceandrepairl1103]

I would an accessory kit it’s a junction box with fuses with one micro cable like a phone charger to a small keyboard different amount of buttons I have inside my truck to control up to 6 items with one small cable instead of running powere to each separate switch

[@sampope]

How can I get one of those stickers printed with my custom writing on it?

[@rileywillard139]

Could something like this work with DeWalt 12v battery or a 20v battery with a step down adapter

[@ronscott2838]

Yep

[@justindelaney624]

WHAT SIZE WERE THE SCREWS YOU USED TO MOUNT THE FUSE BLOCK?

[@dlampecht00]

I wouldn’t do it in PACKOUT but cool project for sure

[@Diebog]

Nice job, but I would highly suggest soldering everything instead of crimping. Through my years of working and repairing electrical wires, the majority of the issues are always the crimped connectors. Your building a testing jig and you want to take all the possible weak links out so you don’t waste time trying to find a fault in your build. Solder is the best way to go here IMHO👍

[@mrmotofy]

Nah crimping will be just fine especially enclosed in that case

[@samgalea8454]

Hey mate is this 12v or 24v for the trailer ?

[@Kenneth-e3i]

Do you have any plans for that

[@sbrewer2055]

Would a m18 battery be too much power?

[@RylandRay]

Maybe a silly question but my power button is lit up all the time and cant figure out why🤣Any idea?

[@stevengrubbs89]

Pretty cool

[@pbAdpcustoms]

What's driving me nuts is all the extra wire between the switches and fuse block. You could've gotten away with making the wires a little shorter, lol

[@lukejackson4870]

Where did you get the 12v adapter plug?

[@Perryswrenching]

Can you check the brakes with this set up

[@offthestreetsandinthecreek7294]

Thanks for sharing

[@hemitj]

AWESOME BUILD PROJECT! I've been wanting to build something like this. I was going to use an 110VAC to 12VDC power supply, but I really like the M12 battery setup better. Completely portable! Can't wait to make my own! Thanks again for a great project. BTW, just found your channel and subscribed!

[@DependableAutoTruck]

great video

[@tobyers21]

Why did the brake lights not work when you pressed the brake option? It should still have brake lights even with 4 pin connector 🤔

[@Shoptoolreviews]

No, the “Brake” button is for electric Brakes on larger trailers. That is only on 7-pin connectors. The Brake/Stop lights are the same circuit/bulbs for turn-signals on a 4-5 pin.

[@delliott777]

This is on my To Do list! Looking for suggestions and ideas.

[@alec4672]

I think the best part of this is I can do it with DeWalt tastk and Milwaukee batteries 😂 cause I'm that person that can't choose a single color.

[@cancelthesquad]

you guys should have made it for 4 pin, 7 pin, and semi

[@Mkolankowski]

Someone needs to build these with a Hopkins 40974 and sell them power probing connectors sucks

[@PeterHatch-mx7zc]

Nice cost to build me one thks or sell the plans

[@rpmservice5211]

nice video, but whos got the time. IPA Ranger MUTT....time is money!

[@a-yates]

My truck does trailer tests it's gret

[@RJLM330]

If I can only figure out how to do it. Plus add some of the good suggestions OR just send me yours I’d be glad to pay for it.

[@jeffkleemeyer4620]

👍🏻👍🏻

[@whitey7388]

I don't see any of the links

[@Shoptoolreviews]

Should be in there now.

[@whitey7388]

​@@Shoptoolreviews cool thanks

[@rudymini12]

Wolud you sale the stickers

[@wrangler892]

I built this be careful I destroyed the m12 power source you can over draw it especially with electric brakes

[@Shoptoolreviews]

Yeah, we should've just used spade connectors directly to the battery. There's an internal 1A fuse in the power source, it can be replaced, but it's a pain. Anyway, sorry about that. Like I mentioned, should've gone direct to the battery with a 10A or 20A fuse.

[@danlux4954]

⁠@@Shoptoolreviews can you put a bigger fuse in the power source?

[@davidpavey7233]

Really seems like a solution to a problem that 0.0002% of the population has. Sure if you are rv service center then it is probably a great idea. For anyone who is not a rv service center then for under $20 you can get a trailer light tester for your truck. If your truck lights check out then you already have that whole system sitting in your driveway. Considering you are likely going to hook your truck up to your trailer to move it to where you are going to work on it, just leave it hooked up. Just seems like a commercial to sell Milwaukee pack out boxes. If that isn’t the case, why not suggest plastic ammo can? Smaller in size, significantly cheaper, and deep enough to mount the battery adapter on end and then you don’t have to mess with unhooking the wire tie each time you have to unhook the battery to charge it? Now make something like this that powers an electric trailer jack/electric trailer winch, then you have a product that at least 1% of the population would find benefit in.

[@danlux4954]

If you have more than one trailer it’s definitely useful.

[@danielrichardson3613]

Why are you shouting at me?

[@bwselectronic]

@ed theoldtechguy it's a packout mod😎