Should you AVOID this subwoofer wiring style? SERIES Issues Explained!

[@CarAudioFabrication]

Looking for more subwoofer enclosure and wiring content? Here's some related videos on the channel! Thanks for watching! Single vs Dual Voice Coil, Which is Best? - kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXS3eJaFq6ufra8 Box Builds (Playlist) - kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnS8gayNZ9WhgM0

[@DayNNyteDJs]

Mind blown once again. I learn so much by watching this channel.

[@chrislacombe9532]

Just had this exact discussion 2 weeks ago with some audio friends. We all came to the conclusion "at rest" is one thing but box discrepancies and woofer variations were going to be very bad once power was applied. Thanks for the verification!

[@joefries365]

Going to be upgrading my subs in my car to much bigger and beefier 10;s in the spring and maybe even doing some sound deadening in the back so watching all your videos to get some pointers. Another great and straight forward video. Thanks you

[@RodofAllTrades]

Interesting video! I'd say I learned something new! You really should have touched on the big elephant in the room: Impedance rise of series VS. parallel. After my experiences with my JL 13W7, I will avoid series connections altogether. What I noticed most was that the impedance rise of a series circuit vs. a parallel circuit was proportionally higher in the series circuit. With the subs coils in series, I was mostly seeing an average of 5 ohms across the board. In a parallel configuration, I was seeing an average of 1 ohm across the board. In the series configuration and using a SounDigital 3K (2 ohm version) I was only able to get 950-975 watts RMS out of a 3K. When I went with a 5K, I still was only able to muster 1400+ watts RMS. I would have tried an 8K, but didn't have the room, due to all the equipment being located in the spare tire well. This is when I decided to try a D4S JP23v2 and wire in parallel at 0.75 ohm. The results were staggering. Not only did I substantially increase my headroom, (2,980 watts) but I saw way less impedance rise. JL's maximum power rating of the 13W7 is spot-on. Beyond that and the voice coil bottoms out. Sorry for going off topic Mark!

[@keganwallace8753]

This is what I've been saying for years from theory without knowing if it's true. Thanks for sharing this knowledge. I've noticed from friends running subs in series that the furthest sub would always get smoked. That's why I tend to run single sub or parallel setups. I've never blown a speaker this way. I've been running the same system for 16 years and haven't replaced any components.

[@sbeezynukka]

I’m series parallel, hell I should just wire down to .5 and limit the amp by gain structure, I’ve already smoked one, closest to the port. I’m going single x12v3 soon so I’ll just get a dual 2. My single sub setups have always went harder than my dual/multiple sub setups.

[@rhkips]

Meanwhile, line array designers are crying helplessly in a corner somewhere right now...

[@cburgess7]

@@rhkips this made me laugh way harder than it should have

[@Njjb122]

I watched your video on wiring a dual amp system great video btw ty. I just purchased a HU, 4 speakers, a sub and 2 amps. My 4 channel speaker amp has A and B inputs for front and rear speakers and output rca Jacks. Should I connect my sub amps rca inputs to speaker amp outputs or directly to the headunits subwoofer outputs? What are the difference, pro/cons of each way. Im assuming I will lose the ability to tune the subwoofer through the headunit if I connect the sub amp rca inputs to the speaker amp outputs rather than headunit but that's only my guess. Any advice is greatly appreciated

[@Grommet2007]

There's one advantage to series wiring the subwoofers - if the coil in one fails, both of them will stop seeing power. Why is this an advantage? If they're both sharing the same box volume, if one fails, the remaining working subwoofer is now seeing TWICE the effective box volume that it was previously seeing, and a huge "passive radiator" (the non-functioning subwoofer) in the box, and apart from sounding pretty bad, that could lead to over-excursion and mechanical failure of the subwoofer.

[@Craig-o9v]

Completely off topic, but do you have any tips, tricks or advice for marine applications? Especially with several drivers?

[@abdussamaddhodhat4551]

You have a good knowledge.i deed not know about the movement thru series wiring.thank yy

[@petar443]

Patric-Kole comment is incorrect. Two 4ohm SVC are 8ohms in series and 2ohms in parallel. As always you are very informative Mark.😁

[@jacquesduplessis6175]

Oh, this is very interresting. I've got 2x6 inch 3ohm subs wired in series purely because my monoblock is way too powerfull and I thought the increase ohms would give more damping, but now I think I'll re-wire them to 1.5ohm parallel and just be carefull with gain controlls (1kwrms driving 2x +-100rms subs) and hopefully it sounds even better! Thanks for all the videos and great info btw.

[@SSMan-jo6tf]

Never heard of that before! I’m glad I do now,thank you!

[@tomgt007sugden]

Just a quick question.. Is it possible to wire a central dash board speaker to a 4 channel amplifier. If so how would to configure it.. many thanks

[@floydwilliams3321]

Wow that’s the whole Lotta information Brother❤

[@PhiMobileSounds]

Great tip and demonstration Mark! Would this also depend on the compliance of the spider or is it still relevant seeing that you need more power to move stiffer suspension?

[@beninqdyet]

Ive got 2 10 rockford fosgates, 1 1500 watt amp and 2 skar 10 inch and 2500 watt amp, can i parallel and bridge amps to power everything?

[@buckaroobonsi555]

Yes but that would not happen in real life. If you open the circuit that would go away. If you had it hooked to an actual amplifier turned on or off that would not happen. On top of that each speaker should be sealed from it's neighbor as well since in a perfect world reguardless of how it is wired because you are far more likely to have failure of a sub due to unbalanced pumping action when they are paired and not sealed between each other. This is according to Kicker they have a video in which this topic is discussed. In the above hook up an amp with no signal going through it and with it turned on or off this above example should not happen. If you do not short the speaker wire it likewise will not happen. This is a non-issue issue.

[@CarAudioFabrication]

The test is just to show how series and parallel differ. In a series connection each subwoofer is NOT directly damped by the amps output. It is in the case of a parallel connection. A series connection BETWEEN drivers can absolutely lead to distortion and can be even worse at higher output levels.

[@ch9nnel99]

So am I correct in extrapolating that wiring the coils of two dvc subwoofers in series and the speakers themselves wired in parallel (ex 2 DVC 1 ohm subs wired in series-parallel for a 1 ohm final load at the amplifier) will also not generate the same backEMF? And under what conditions are the positive and negative connection at the amp shorted?

[@CarAudioFabrication]

This is discussed in the video The experiment simply demonstrates the effects of back EMF in a series vs parallel connection

[@peteleclair7044]

Would this apply to the component speakers as well. So it’s best to have individual channels for each speaker. Tweeter,mid,mid bass instead of just using impedance blockers. Then further does a component system distribution box prevent this even though one leaf powers the whole block

[@mugsybonze968]

Which is the best first dsp crossover then amp are amp input gain first then dsp, i see u have both but i want the best way ?

[@southern_merican]

never knew this!

[@CarAudioFabrication]

It's rarely discussed! Thanks for watching!

[@southern_merican]

@@CarAudioFabrication question for u........... is it possible for me to get my 2000wrms single ,one ohm dvc sub that is wired in series to 2ohm final,.......is it possible to use a heavy duty DIY resistor bank to get my final load to one ohm.? I don't wanna buy another 400.00 sub

[@southern_merican]

I have a 2000w monoblock

[@DRIFTRxx]

Just bought a 2016 civic, tried looking up recs for placement, and size for the car but I haven’t found anything? Help please? I mainly listen to metal and hard rock.

[@DjFr1nge]

Hi, what about four 4ohm subs wired in series parallel giving 4ohm load on amp? sharing same airspace.

[@gain6786]

Hi, How to get good mid bass from door card mounted speakers? if its possible ofc

[@Voz_slienciosa]

How do i get a distribution block for just 8 gauge wire I don’t want to change my wire size and do I need a distribution block for 10 gauge speakers wire

[@Living_EDventures]

I just put two 12" RF 2ohm DVC P3's in a larger size sealed box with a RF Punch Punch P600 4channel bridged. I have 0gauge ofc power wire and 10 guage sub wire. It hit really hard with the Kenwood KMX 809S deck I have. I just did my first complete tear down and built of a 2008 Ford Fusion. Did a few months of research before deciding to go the route I did, and I'm blown away with how it sounds. Amp birth certificate says 845 Rwatts, so I assume I pushing 422.5 RMS watts to each sub. I can literally see my back window move. I plan to upload my build in a series soon. I did not have to do any other upgrades. When I turn the Audio Control line level all the way up and the EQ subwoofer level to plus to it hits hard rumbles. Except there is not much rattle at all outside as I deadened 80% of the cars and 90% insulated/dampened it. Spent over 5 k total as much of what I bought was open box stuff. 110% satisfied. By the way, thank you, as I learned a lot of things about stereo stuff that I did not know yet from watching yours and other people's videos 👍

[@Living_EDventures]

I used RF T2652-S front components, used the crossovers to bi amp, RF T-1682 6×8's in the rear doors, RF T-1693's in the rear deck. RF Punch P600 4channel for the rear deck and front door mids, RF Power P400 4 channel for the front tweeters and rear doors, and A Audio Control Matrix. I have all the speakers set to Full sound and the subs. I really need to take it an and have it set up properly. Too much stuff to fine tune. It sounds so crisp. Clear and clean even when cranked. Only has about 5 hours of playing it so far.

[@crisnmaryfam7344]

@@Living_EDventures also, o gauge on 600 watts is hilariously overkill. You fumbled around with that thick ass wire for no gains what so ever, over a smaller wire.. Granted if you upgrade in the future its already installed but on "600 watts" you could have gotten away with - Up to 500 watts RMS = 8 gauge. 500 - 1000 watts RMS = 4 gauge. 1000 - 1500 watts RMS = 2 gauge. 1500 -2000 wats RMS = 0 gauge

[@Living_EDventures]

I have 1640 total rms watts. I emailed RF told them everything I bought and how I want to set it up. They suggested I use 0 gauge. My sub amp birth certificate says 845 watts. It bridged. That's why I said 422.5 each. I also have a stock battery and alternator with no cap or extra battery and I get 0 light blinking. I can't complain. I'm going to upload the complete build soon.

[@st170ish]

Electrical engineers please correct me if Im wrong, its also pretty much how power transformers work (inductance?)

[@nagyandras8857]

fun fact. you can wire both series and parallel , out of phase. not just in phase.

[@milesbachelor8747]

Seems the simplest signal path is the best. A set of box terminals for each sub. Takes a little wire management from box to amp, but keeps the signal consistent.

[@adaptedbythedans]

I never knew this.

[@ElStriker777]

🔥👍

[@oscarcuevassn95saleemzr12]

Thanks my friend very interesting and useful info well explained 👍 🏁🏁🏁💯🙋‍♂️

[@gopyyanusdev3486]

I like series connection because impedance rise and the sub will last longer and does not smell like pararrel connection the sub got hot quick and the sub smell

[@Brap_Lord]

If it smells that means you’re probably doing something wrong 😂

[@crisnmaryfam7344]

@@Brap_Lord "I like series connection because impedance rise" Yeah... he has no idea what hes talking about.

[@Patric-Kole]

You didn't go over the differences in ohms. Two 4 ohm subs would either create 2 ohms in series or 8 ohms in parallel. That would have a significant difference in what amplifier could be used.

[@CarAudioFabrication]

Please re-watch the video, the point of this video is not to determine or match the final impedance at the amplifier. I have several other videos about that already on the channel, not to mention it's probably the most discussed topic in car audio and I wasn't about to add 10 minutes explaining how to calculate total impedance when it's not the point. The focus here is completely different. Additionally (even though it's not the point) your comment is incorrect , two 4 ohms in series would be 8 ohms, and if parallel would by 2 ohms.