SNS 311: Splitting Aluminum, HD Spare Tire Rack, Blowouts

[@texacola]

I'm an older slightly infirm guy and when my tire carriers were built I had them add an extra bolt that was longer than the studs inside the rim on the carrier at top center. This makes it so much easier for me to muscle it to the center post and then while it hangs there then turn it to fit the hub studs instead of trying to lift AND align at the same time. Hope this helps for your next tire carrier build!

[@deangarlow6839]

I agree with an earlier comment by Eric Martin. The aluminum was locked in place by the four clamps. The heat caused the material to expand and act like a disc brake which stopped the blade. Your videos are the best. I appreciate the time and effort you put into these. Keep up the good work.

[@dolvaran]

That new spare tyre needs a nice cover to protect it from the sun. Perhaps with a cool ABOM79 logo on it!

[@throttlebottle5906]

ditto, covers for all the tires when parked! UV kills

[@guadalupeinfante9169]

You know I really enjoy watching your snap earlier online programs here you know I don't California I know nothing about being a machinist I enjoy watching it thank you man you're cool I like watching you a lot

[@HH-Machining]

Ive noticed that when sawing aluminium with circular/splitting saw, flood coolant is best. When the aluminium heats up, it galls up the blade and even has stopped my Eisele cold saw from rotating. Aluminium can be tricky, when its "gummy"

[@glennarnold3970]

abom if you weld a half piece of 1/4 thick tubing that will fit the inside id of the centre of the rim make it longer than the wheel studs directly below them you can pick the wheel up slide it on the to the half cut tube it takes the weight of the wheel then you can turn it to line up wheel studs with out hurting your back thats how they are made here in oz great for the older folk and safer bolt the wheel to the fixture put half cut tube in centre rim id then weld to the face plate for a perfect fit cheers glenn

[@TgWags69]

My guess....Both ends of the aluminum were clamped down hard, as it warmed up from the cut it had no where expand except to bow sideways. Pinched your blade like brake calipers and stalled the machine.

[@truckguy6666]

Sounds plausible. Could POTENTIALLY there have been some spring in the material once it was cut in half? Just like ripping some crazy grained stuff on a table saw it will pinch the blade. Must be MINIMAL kerf of the cutting edges compared to the rest of the blade for it to be able to pinch.

[@steveshoemaker6347]

l am 77 years old and l don't think l have ever seen a.....Tire blow like that one did...WOW...Thanks for this fine video....Excellent camera work + such great editing.....Have fun my friend....Blessing your all's way....+ another big Thanks....!!!!!!!

[@zukjeff]

the shaft and sawing sound was 'bent' when you started the cut. Tyre carrier. cross drill the lower stud for a padlock. also to protect the threads and make it easier to lift the wheel up onto the studs, weld a pipe projection in the center of the mounting plate that is a bit longer than the studs. you rest the wheel on this pipe then slide the wheel back over the studs.

[@vpcnc]

That aluminum plate cut looks great, even though it stalled on you.

[@alancharie9608]

Hi Adam, as too the slitting saw cutter stall out, I am retired machinist of some 30 plus years and would say that was caused by electrical overload tripping on the main drive motor, to me the RPM of saw was to high , causeing excessive load on spindle and main motor drive ,,sounded like you just lowered the table puzzled over what happened and tried spindle again and it restarted as overload contact had time to cool down, I know you were little miffed that arbour has slight bend but in all my years machining dont think I ever saw arbour that didnt have bend in it to some degree Alan

[@truckguy6666]

Now this makes sense.

[@ajwilson605]

About the horizontal mill, that was a long, slow cut you were making, with a medium load on the spindle motor. The two things I'd check for the stoppage would be, 1. The main spindle contactor for burned/pitted contacts, and 2. The thermal cut-out in the drive motor. Either problem could stop the spindle without stopping the rest of the machine. It would also explain why the machine worked after cooling off for a few minutes. My 2 cents worth......

[@chrisv4640]

Thermal overload on the main motor

[@rgetso]

Maybe the mist coolant should have been positioned such that the spray was hitting the blade immediately before the cut instead of immediately after to increase lubricity and cooling in the cut.

[@richardhead8264]

*_Coolant was prevented from entering the kerf by the rotational direction of the blade._*

[@SsiolisP]

The saw disk was heated up despite the presence of the water jet. It was heated just enough to cause the disk to swell (expand) ever so slightly. The swelling made the disk rub up against both of it's sides on the aluminium. The heat generated by the friction overcame the water jet's cooling capacity thus the disk was swollen even more to the point that it could not overcome the friction (much like a disk brake) and inevitably was forced to a halt. (Solution: cut in increments, pausing half way through thus allowing the disk to cool down.)

[@steamfan7147]

When I split plate on my mill, I run flood coolant, but have a valve in the coolant return line. I close the return flow down so the table floods and fills to about a 1/2" from the table surface. The saw teeth are running submerged in coolant the whole time and are carrying coolant up into the cut. My mill (Polamco) has a 7-1/2hp main motor on it and if I feed it too fast splitting plate with a 10" saw , it will load the motor enough to trip the thermals on the motor starter and shut the main spindle down. The thermals automatically reset when they cool down a bit. On my machine a .008" per rev feed is about the sweet spot for splitting 1-1-1/4" Aluminum plate.

[@philbohrman3918]

Thank you for showing such self control over a highly stressful situation. Your coverage of the situation was both complete and informative.

[@tomoakhill8825]

Adam is making three video libraries simultaneously. One is a "How To Do It" series. One is an "Enjoy Watching A WORKING Man" series. One is a "Real Family Life" series. Talk about a Family Reality Show. This is how almost all families are. We have seen Adam lose his father, lose his dog, marry Abby, teach his cousin to weld, watched his step-father wire his new shop, and now see him helping his FIL. All of these relationships are kind, generous, and loving. This is a REAL "Reality Show." Thanks Adam.

[@st3althyone]

I love Abby’s optimism, she’s always ready for anything!

[@ericmartin5720]

The aluminum heated up from the cut. Because both sides of the kerf was clamped the expansion pinched the blade, the blade ran out of clearance as the heat built up. Several lesser depth of cuts would alleviate the issue. The coefficient of expansion for aluminum is greater than steel.

[@elitearbor]

I've run into this as well, but only with mist/spray coolant. When using flood, it keeps things cool enough to remove the issue.

[@gcflower99]

From the woodworker perspective: the blade rotation was carrying coolant AWAY from the cut, which would really help the heat build up. Maybe too picky, but I think the blade/teeth should be biting into and down through the material, carrying the coolant into the cut and cleaning out the kerf on the backside as the material moves.

[@elitearbor]

@@gcflower99 The swarf/chips have to be moved away, and there's a big difference in load/chatter/cut quality based on conventional or climb cutting. Metal is a whole different beast, honestly. Ipe is the closest common wood there is in terms of how it acts compared to 6061 aluminum.

[@nerd1000ify]

@@gcflower99 Usually when cutting aluminium the coolant is less about actually keeping things cool and more about stopping the chips welding themselves to the cutting teeth (something that can ruin the cutter in short order). Climb cutting like you describe isn't an option on most manual mills. There is a grave danger of the tool 'self feeding' and jamming on the work, which is sure to break something (tool, work, machine... whichever comes first). It would be like trying to run a high hook angle ripping blade on a radial arm saw, in woodworking terms. On CNC mills or machines with backlash eliminators it is an option and is preferable in most cases for the reasons you describe.

[@caphenning]

The clue to what went wrong is in the last scene in the cutting process, the cooling water was turning into steam. The aluminum got hot and grabbed the blade. A few minutes later it was cooled and contracted to complete.

[@Dwarfracer88]

Did anybody else notice as soon as Adam said "I don't have a big band saw around here..." the Patreon bar showed up on the bottom of the screen? Well played sir, well played.

[@rogeriocosta1035]

I could not see the blade teeth profile, but seems to me that the aluminum plate get hot and pinched the saw blade. My hypothesis: In the start there not too much heat, in the middle there is heat but it has some flex in the mounting. In the end there is heat and the parte is heavily clamped, so the expansion pinched the blade.

[@AbbeyRoad69147]

Yes, but I think he is confused what happened internal to the machine. I think some belt slipped inside the machine, or a press-fit coller started to rotate, or the motor just stalled.

[@Rebar77_real]

If it was pinched would the table drop easily though? Or maybe that's were it picked up the bend from pulling too hard...

[@harolddomangue9206]

I think your right about the pinching should he have clamped one side of the stock and left the other side free for expansion and placed stops at both ends not clamped to stock stable but free for expansion

[@thomasp.monroe4922]

Adam,I used to own a horizontal mill and had the same thing happen several times with straight saw blades. I can almost guarantee the gap heated up and closed up and closed up on the blade and seized it probably because of to much depth of cut with this type of blade. I resorted to only using carbide saw blades with deep cuts .

[@Sicktrickintuner]

Yep that was my first guess, and it’s not heat, it’s stress in the part that allows it to flex as he got to the end of the cut. Id guess the clamps were not super tight and allowed the one to move slightly

[@SweetTooth8989]

Great to see Abby so comfortable being in the shop and on camera. Definitely would be cool to see you teach her how to weld!

[@brianevans1946]

That magnifying glass is known as a linen tester. It come s from measuring lines of threads per inch hence the graduations.. We use it a lot in the printing industry...

[@kmitchl1]

Quite an adventure with the tires. Good lesson for me. I need to replace the tires on a 2008 camper I recently bought. On the spare tire mount I always weld a pipe stub to the plate with the stud bolts. The pipe stub is set so that when you are placing the tire on the mount it serves as a place to rest the tire and is set up to align with the stud bolts. Much easier than trying to stab three stud bolts while holding an 60# tire in the air.

[@luketalkin5000]

Wrong valve stems. Not bad tires. The sensors you use require bolt-in valve stems. At speed, the sensors put enough force on the rubber style valve stems to cause them to fail. Usually catastrophically.

[@userwl2850]

At 14.30 the gap closed in on the blade and jammed it as the stress was leaving the plate. The blade cutter got hot and expanded and jammed. Overloaded the motor on the mill. 🤔

[@karlhrdylicka]

David Wilks. Certainly looks like that would be the reason why the blade stopped and the power feed kept going. Are you into this chip of the week ,month, year. contest/award David , you ought to win it easily with the amount of chips you make.

[@backyardbasher]

At 11:00 you can see steam coming off the left side of the ally plate, it probly expanded through heat and closed the gap on the blade

[@raybame5816]

Hi - The cutter got pinched due to material expansion. The arbor had the same run-out at the beginning of the video as after the stall so I think you're ok there. As on your own tire carrier, put a touch of weld on those u-bolt nuts so the midnight goblins won't fly off with the new tire AND a beautiful carrier. Adds a little piece of mind when you leave your RV unattended at night.

[@33cut83]

I've had great success cutting a lot of 6061 up to 3 inches thick on regular woodworking saws. in addition to the carbide handling the sfm reliably, the teeth are thicker axially to allow relief for the thickness of the blade disc to aid against rubbing, My theory is that Thermal expansion of the aluminum workpiece pinched the blade because you fixtured the workpiece on both sides of the blade. as the aluminum attained steady state temperature from the heat of the cut, it expanded, and because of the fixturing constraints, pinched the blade. This expansion produced a braking effect on the large surface area of the saw because the teeth do not have any side relief. and aluminum on steel has a high friction coefficient. Also if the piece was warped it may have settled unevenly from the clamping force after it's internal strength decreased from the cut. If you undergo this cut again, try a blade with thicker teeth to allow for expansion without rubbing of the saw disc. or fixturing on just one side, so the workpiece is not over-constrained when thermal expansion from steady state cutting temps have been reached.

[@bushmaster2936]

Great answer ! Makes total sense. : )

[@danmenes3143]

Bingo. It looks to me like that blade is hollow ground to provide some side relief--but if so, obviously not enough for this application. I love to use a 10" aluminum cutting blade on my table saw, although I've never cut anything more aggressive with it than a 1" x 2" section. Goes through that like a hot knife through butter.

[@johndunbar2393]

I was a tire man for about 8 years and I can't tell you how many times, I saw destroyed pull behind campers due to tires blowing out. We saw so many, we literally quit putting on trailer tires, and started using heavy duty pickup tires for several of the locals, and viola, the problem disappeared. We had such good luck with campers, we literally started using normal LT pickup tires on pickup trailers too, since those blew out alot as well. I don't know why trailer tires blow out like they do, but using a heavy ply, normal pickup tire will alleviate alot of those problems. Just an FYI.

[@gillfitzpatrick7894]

John Dunbar I Had a blowout on my boat trailer, The guy at the Goodyear dealer refused to put a trailer tyre on. He insisted I use a LT truck tyre (even discounted it down to the same price as the trailer tyre). So we replaced both of them. He now has me as a loyal customer.

[@aerogfs]

I would imagine those trailer tyres are made to be cheaper than pickup ones... Also, that thing is quite tall, during turns, it would put a lot of load on the outer side

[@roboosh]

some guesses re the tyres. (yep, English). either the stems were not replaced or replaced with an under rated car type, or bad batch.. or the pressure monitors, not being the tiny plastic covers that those stems are tested with, caused so much flex that the stems failed.. most likely a mix of cheap/reused stems and extra stress from external pressure monitors. theres a lot of chaotic air flow around a rotating tyre..

[@BigPete7407]

It's remarkable that with all of the on site service that we pay for and pay a premium to do business with a dealer that will be there when something like this happens, sometimes it ends up we just get treated worse and get inferior products. Adam, you fortunately have the unusual position of being able to use the power of your audience to show that dealer the potential impact of poor customer service. Sorry to hear that you and Abby's parents went through so much but they were indeed fortunate to have you to help. Well done sir.

[@udowillkomm1173]

I would say, the aluminum has grown during the cut from the heat, and pinched the blade. That bent the arbor a bit, and the machine stopped, because of overload. Perhaps the cutter, perhaps the x axis.

[@davidapp3730]

Did the plate expand and bind on the slitting saw? Would spraying the coolant on the entry side rather than the exit side work better?

[@debrainwasher]

It happened to me too with a big sawblade. It turned out, the thermostatic switch in the motor shut down. The «Error» LED lit up on the controller panel of the machine.

[@georgg.5730]

That loupe thingy is a 'thread counter' or 'linen tester'. They originally come from cloth manufacturing where they were/are used for quality assurance. They have since moved into other fields. At my job, I use them to determine paper and print qualities, for instance. A really handy tool for close inspection work and the light is a massive bonus.

[@oboe_hobo]

I've mostly seen those used to check the sharpness of a picture on film before development.

[@alectrondorfman1057]

That magnifier is called a dot glass. Usually used by the printing industry to check the dots in a printed piece.

[@mikechimko8564]

Good to see that you are taking some time to do something other than work. I appreciate all your videos and your knowledge share but more to life than just shop time. Enjoy.

[@boogieman3165]

Adam is a full time KZbinr.

[@danmenes3143]

I've always understood that style of magnifier to be called a "linen tester," and that they were invented for counting the number of threads per inch in fabrics.

[@pkpropertysolutionsltd701]

I really like the versatility of the K&T mill, seems to be able tackle a multitude of tasks providing you have the correct tooling.

[@fastst1]

Sounds spot on trailer tire problem, was told long back by a hauler that tralier tires are a slightly different belting to resist dragging sideways at full load. Sometimes non TR tires will shred internally. I usually cheat on spare tire holders. I get a spindle and whole hub assembly, this provides easy access to an entire hub in case there's a rim failure that mangles studs or something like a grease seal blows out and eats up some bearings. Even if you just damage a wheel stud, you'd have 8 spares with lugs. I did see a note on my 14pr tires is that they're speed restricted to 70 or 75mph. My poor uncle had his winnebego on an F450 chassis and the tire shop kept selling him 10pr tires and he'd have blowouts all the time, convinced him to switch to a commercial 12 ply tire for the rears.

[@suzanneandwilliamjackson6682]

Love watching what you do. Have learned alot. I'm a retired auto/diesel tech and just wanted to point out that if you put the wheel stud to the top it helps the other holes line up. Next time if you change a tire try doing that. It really does help

[@johnhunter4972]

The aluminium expanded under the heat generated by the cutter. Because it was held tight by the clamps on either side of the cut it bound up. I guess its best to just hold down one side.

[@filippovolpe746]

There was coolant.

[@michaelvangundy226]

True. Aluminum is a great heat sink. Just the rising daytime temperature could do some expansion.

[@mrc1539]

john hunter , if that was the case it would have shown on the cutting surface, when he removed it the surface was beautiful. Think he needs to look elsewhere.

[@AKfishkayaker]

Hey Adam, the magnifier is for measuring thread count in fabrics. They are great for other things but that is its specific purpose.

[@HardwayRanch]

Adam, I have towed both a travel trailer and a 5th wheel trailer for all over the Southwest. Both trailers kept blowing out "Imported" tires over & over & over... After I switched to "Made in the USA Radials" I never had another problem with either trailer... For what it is worth...

[@billsimpson604]

The end if that shaft was not running perfectly true when you started cutting. It looks the same to me, when you finished.

[@paulades9857]

Saw blade just jammed. With the material constrained on either side of the cut, when the blade removed the last tiny piece holding the two halves of the material apart, the heated and expanding material had no place else to go but towards the saw blade.

[@OldMadScientist]

There is a major problem with tires coming out of China. Most of the problems are ply separations. Personally I wouldn't buy anything coming out of China.

[@dangerrangerlstc]

Wonder if the blade got hot enough to start having the aluminum stick to the blade and then gall in the cut? Noticed the blade had some aluminum stuck to it when you restarted the cut that disappeared by the end of the cut. Hard to say

[@ronmccabe1169]

Hi Abom Now that I've gotten up in years, and a few years ago got a newer car, I looked into getting A A A. Relatives had two problems with them - 1) "we don't do pickup trucks", & 2) a 4 hour wait for help. I just happened to be goggling and and saw a listing about how most auto insurance companies usually have a road assistance addon - FOR CHEAP - I think mine for a minivan is $10 a YEAR! no mileage limits. I tell everyone I know about this. A A A seems very sucky. Thanks for all you do. You are an awesome friend.

[@michaelvangundy226]

I've been using triple A since the mid 90's. In every place where I have used them they had an independent contractor come out. I have been towed about a dozen times, a couple of jump starts, air for a low trailor tire, and many other services. I have never been charged a penny. The services were always professional. There are discounts at parks, museums, restaurants, and pharmacies. I have twice been in a friend's car that quit and used my card to tow them to a mechanic, and even twice got a ride in the truck to my home after. I have spent around $3,000 over the years but in comparison to the towing fees have come out way ahead.

[@ronmccabe1169]

@@michaelvangundy226 So about $120 per year?

[@473mec]

Mavis is a big tire store chain in NY where I live. They grew over the course of about 20-30 years to swallow up a number of competing independents, and chains. I guess they've made their way down south now. I've had mixed results with them. Before they started buying up the competition, my experience with several stores was great. Later, I found that the local store managers and staff varied a lot. The store closest to me is awful. I'd walk before getting work done there again. The next closest is well staffed and a pleasure to deal with. I've noticed that the local Mavis stores will start by selling you tires they have on hand, rather than offer what might be the best choice for your application. The tires they recommended might also have been the most profitable for the store. This may be how your father-in-law ended up with those tires. Great work on the spare tire mount, and helping them get back on the road.

[@higginsjimmyjh]

yes...the BIG chips i thought was kewl... HOWEVER !!!!! The part i really i loved was the Sound the BIG chips made when playing in SLOW-MODE....

[@imanoleonardo6902]

Wondering if that long piece pinched the cutter?

[@zexsrah5836]

Abby is so chill cool. That sucks when you have to deal with stuff like that it just makes the experience of the trip a little aggressive than relaxing. Keep it up bud love the content and I'm getting there myself in machining peace..

[@azinfidel6461]

@Adam, first thing I thought of was a thermal overload on the motor, it might have an automatic cut-off switch.

[@Psychlist1972]

Abom at the barber: "Two inches +/- five thou off the top, please"

[@geckoproductions4128]

I use TOYO on a high performance law enforcement 4x4 pick up in South Texas.......they have never failed me. Also, magnifier is used for checking registration for 4-color (process color) printing.

[@johnmichaels2495]

While you're at it, I would suggest adding a trailer bearings kit. I've had my share of not-so-pleasant towing experiences, and bearings are one of the crappier ones. Probably the worst was towing a 1985 Melges A scow from Wisconsin down to Florida for a regatta, I want to say this was around 2004. In hopes of beating the Nashville traffic, we were driving at night. Somewhere in Alabama, I realized that there was a noticeable amount of steam coming from the trailer- the hubs had gotten so hot that the rain was vaporizing when it touched them. So I wound up replacing trailer bearings at 1:00 AM, in pouring rain at a wayside. I've always been pretty good about replacing trailer tires every few years, especially since I take the boat on fairly long trips to regattas. Of course, I made the mistake of putting brand new tires on my utility trailer the day before a trip, and I paid for that when traveling to New Mexico. Fortunately, the blowout happened on the way there, so the only thing that was damaged were the trailer fenders. I replaced all four tires with the highest quality I could get (checking date codes carefully!), since I knew I would have about 6000 pounds worth of capacitors on the way back from Los Alamos. The traveling wave tubes went in the back of the car, since they were the most fragile.

[@llyduramax1]

Adam, you may want to check the wheel bearing pre-load on the RV. I wore out a brand new tire in a 1178 mile trip on my enclosed trailer. When I jacked it up to put my spare on I noticed that the hub had a lot of play and the bearing had lost its pre-load. That’s was 2 years ago and after resetting the pre-load on all 4 hubs the tires have been holding up well.

[@grntitan1]

Been there done that. Blew a tire on the rear axle of my semi trailer. Service truck came out after an hour and a half wait and installed a brand new tire. Finally got rolling again and made it 32 miles before the same exact tire blew again. Needless to say, it was a long damn day.

[@ImNorm29]

My dad was a pressman for a large printing company and had a folding magnifier like that(minus the built in light) about 40 years ago for checking registration marks when printing 4-color catalogs.

[@SwapPartLLC]

I had Mavis do my alignment, and I went back 3 times because the steering wheel wasn't straight. They never got it right, and now 7 months later I've discovered my brand new rear tires are nearly bald. I haven't even put 3000 miles on them. I wouldn't recommend anyone ever go to them for anything.

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

I think I would have put the single hole at the top to hold the weight until I could line up the other 2 holes.

[@bcbloc02]

I Good tires are not appreciated by most until they have had bad ones.

[@deconkeys562]

Sorry to see that he had so many tire problems. - Sometimes it is too much work to go have fun.

[@wayneacaron8744]

Adam, my eyes are getting old. but i think i see the arbor deflecting on the end, like its a tiny bit bent. the thing is, that is before the (lockup) . i presume you will inform us what happened. i think it would be a very important video. poppy's workshop says HI

[@pondafarr]

Also, lesson learned: add a method to lock the spare tire to the tire rack...mine was stolen recently...while parked in a "secure" storage lot.

[@John-oe5nb]

This is a little late, but when you first turned on the horizontal mill I noticed runout on the arbor shaft.

[@engineerwrecker8153]

Your horizontal mill may have tripped the overload heater which would stop the motor. Once the heaters have enough time to cool down you would be able to run again.

[@frednerk5959]

This might sound dumb, but check the alignment of your axles. If the aren't aligned and heading in different direction it will put a side load and lots of heat into the tire. Just a thought.

[@nxt-1]

If I had to guess as to what happened with the mill stopping like that, I would say thermal expansion of the aluminium. The Abom size saw has quite a large area that contacts the aluminium and it seems that there are no cutting edges at the side (like you see sometimes with staggered teeth). This could lead to the saw side continually rubbing the sides of the aluminium slab and heating it up. As the aluminium heats up, it expands and heats up even more, rinse and repeat the cycle until the pressure on the saw becomes to great for the mill to handle and a safety (maybe?) kick in and cuts the machine off. That would be my guess at least.

[@boothbytcd6011]

Yeah I was gonna guess some combo of thermal expansion and a chip getting in the wrong place at the wrong time.

[@nabqrules]

Definitely Check the date codes on the tires.

[@mrnetwurm]

At the 9:30 mark, I hatched upon a great idea. A snow globe for Christmas with a K&T mill and all the chips float around when you shake it up.

[@davesalzer3220]

I’d buy that

[@lightningdemolition1964]

What liquid would you put in it? Metal in water would drop out too fast.

[@DerLaCroix1]

The arbor was already a bit wobbly when you started, so no extra damage there. Maybe you caught a loose chip the return side of the blade and pulled it in - lowering the knee pulled it back up and out, so it ran fine again. I might be OCD about it, but I always try to keep both sides (especially for of low RPM tools) as chip-free as possible for that reason.

[@albertodalmaso8896]

Conventional cut on alluminium Is the death of a cutting Edge ... The chip direction on a climb cut It goes Always on the exit of the cut and the Edge gullet remains clear of debries ... In this case conventional cutting Is the option ti avoid

[@texasplumr]

Fireball Tool rules! That guy is a genius, an absolute genius.

[@darkmann12]

v expensive tho

[@johndixon6948]

i have a straight arbor to replace that bent one.

[@dougankrum3328]

Trailers....tires....My last employer had several 2 axle enclosed trailers for hauling around his hot-rod 32 Fords, and a top fuel dragster......all 3 trailers were bought from a big trailer outfit here in Sacramento, California...(I probably shouldn't name them, they didn't make anything, just sold lots of trailers)......and many issues like you had with tires and axles...$15K each trailers and had Chinese axles, rims and tires...good for maybe 200-300 miles. A couple of the rims had 1/4" run-out sideways...scrubbed the rubber off the tires in 50 miles...all these were like yours...8 bolt, nice white paint.... I had to 'Fix' whatever problems they had, I was the 'Maintenance guy'...so...I went to U-haul and looked at their 2 axle trailers...bought the same brand of wheels and tires, new, from a trucking supply company...center-line wheels, USA made Big-O tires....they actually cost less than the trailer place wanted for replacements...everything seemed to work out fine after that.... Sawing that aluminum plate on the mill....I've had that issue in the past...if the aluminum even gets a bit warm...it can expand and pinch the cutter....I ended up using the air-mist, but added a micro-drop oil based additive...a couple oz's of that stuff lasted months....

[@the_hate_inside1085]

Might work better with flood coolant for cutting a big piece of metal like that. If the work piece gets hot, it will expand and pinch the blade. It probably built up heat throughout the cut, and near the end it just got too hot. The pinching causes friction against the disc, which cases more heat, that leads to even more pinching etc.

[@alberth8073]

Valve stem issue on the wheels. Most rubber valve stems are max rated at 65 psi. They might hold more when static then blow out with vibration and heat on the road. Stem blows will deflate the tire very quickly leading to a complete shred at highway speeds. Need the correct 2 piece steel stems for high pressure. This is a very inexpensive but critical part (under $10). The shop who installed the first set of tires made a mistake letting it out the door with wrong valves.

[@millomweb]

I noticed the shredded tyre had the valve missing - so I wonder if that caused the first to fail too.

[@bonesstitch3243]

Aluminum may have expanded from heat and bound the blade. We are campers also. With all the changes at Craftsman, not sure of availability but they sell a lug nut impact socket set with extension. I have not found a vehicle or trailer that those sockets haven’t fit. Heavy duty sockets you can have without buying two whole sets to get the ones you need.

[@PhilG999]

I was thinking the same thing! Even with coolant it might be the cause...

[@DocHuard]

You mention that you think you bent the arbor. I thought I saw it wobbling several times during the video including at the beginning of the cut.

[@panther105]

It does. Went back to check. Good eye...!!

[@rogerm1cdq407]

with out flood cooling. Did the aluminum expand enough to actually grab the blade

[@jeffreykreft5442]

Just a guess, but I’m assuming this machine has a torque limit that was exceeded when the material pinched the saw towards the end of the cut. The binding force of that thickness of aluminum would be more than enough to stop this dead in its tracks.

[@RobertSzasz]

Motor temp tripped out?

[@jtveg]

I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps some kind of clutch friction limit. If it had been a sophisticated overload protection system then the main motor would stop and it would also disable the feed motor at the same time. There would be no need to press the emergency stop button either because it would most likely disengage the main contactor.

[@jtveg]

@@RobertSzasz That is plausible, since the feed motor didn't stop and the circuit breaker didn't trip. The heavy current load caused the bimetallic thermal sensor to open and then automatically reset itself once the motor cooled down after a couple of minutes.

[@gatekeeper84]

Good point. There could be a considerable amount of stresses in that big piece of extruded and then stretched aluminium.

[@mattymcsplatty5440]

You can really see how a tyre is put together and what its comprised of.What an awesome instantaneous, catastrophic failure of a cheap tyre. Great vidjeo Adam.

[@dcrahn]

I could be wrong, but that looked like a slitting saw which I don't think the teeth have any offset like wood cutting blades. With not enough cooling the aluminum heated up and clamped on the blade like a brake rotor.

[@TheScaryName]

Exactly my thinking too, Aluminium is a hell of a heat conductor.

[@rhubarbcrumble3792]

T slot full of chips causing binding when teeth pick up

[@cambridgemart2075]

@@TheScaryName And a high coefficient of thermal expansion

[@profpep]

On the mill stoppage; I wonder if the thermal overload cutout for the motor tripped. It seemed a long-ish run, and the torque for a 10" blade might be pretty high, Perhaps it was enough to go marginal on the thermal current trip.

[@rhubarbcrumble3792]

T slot full of chips and binding the blade as saw teeth pick up

[@kurtkris]

Mike Pepper -I agree. You could have lost power for a split second (240, 480 volt systems) on one of your feeds. Can happen to anything not protected from those line losses. Motors with gear boxes are the most susceptible.

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Thanks for sharing with us Adam, sorry you had so much tire trouble on the road. Been there and was sure glad to get ALL of the new tires replaced when we finally reached our destination. Fred

[@nickrandol9133]

Adam: Get Fenner to straighten your arbor. He’s getting his shop and himself running again, and is back in the saddle.... And I’m sure you know he straightens marine shafting all the time. He’d be a good start to repair, if only a temporary one.

[@MrNeild123]

Hey,I put something similar on a motorcycle tyre once and had pressure loss,the conclusion was at speed the weight of the thing was bending the valve stem,maybe that’s a possibility,as always great video can’t wait for the next one 👍

[@AlessioSangalli]

Yeah, I'd never ever consider putting on external pressure monitors, on the valve stems, it's asking for a lot of trouble.

[@estruble]

I'm far from being any expert on runout but, if you look at 8:53 min on the video when you start out, to me it looks like you already have some runout on the arbor. From this angle it might be an optical illusion but it's something to look at to know if you started with runout before the lockup.

[@waikanaebeach]

The mill stopping sounds like a thermal cutout tripped on the motor or motor supply circuit. Sometimes the thermal cutouts get weak...

[@mudcrutched1]

A center bump out at the hub location slight,y conical will aid in alignment when putting tire up.

[@kittty2005]

Used a large table saw on 1/2 inch 6061-T6 a man with stick wax and a man on the tail and I on the lead no problem with cut 10 inch zero rake carbide blade 100 tooth,worked good about the same feed speed .

[@thisolesignguy2733]

That blow out does happen, it could've just been a lemon. The valve stem problem is exactly like Rob Bushell stated, the weight of the sensor made the stem wiggle and cut against the rim. But I'd love to get an update on whether he got his money back after having to buy 2 full sets of tires.

[@PhilG999]

On the spare tire mounts what *I* would have done is put one bolt up and the other two down. Now I'm a little guy. 5' 8" and 115# (and 61 years old). Whenever I work on my cars I put one lug up and start the wheel on that so I can hold it with my left hand and put a lugnut on with my right. As you might imagine I've had to figure out some "creative" ways to move heavy things!

[@markmawson1]

Get rid of them Screw on Tyre Pressure Monitors because they must be causing the problem with 1 tyre valve missing and 1 valve cracked, them sensors must be putting excess outward force on them tyre valves when the wheel is spinning at speed, If your going to have TPM Sensors fitted get the internal ones fitted to the inside of the rim much safer.

[@dikkybee4003]

That type of magnifier was originally used to count the threads in cloth and is why there are measurements.

[@matthewkendall7791]

I love that the Patreon link pops up right after you mention that you don't have a big band-saw in the shop. HAHAHA! Love the channel! Thanks!