Stator Repair - 3e of 9 - Accessing Clutch Plates with Special Tool.AVI

This is one of several short videos demonstrating use of the special tool to removal and install new clutch disc plate on our 1995 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic. Here we demonstrate how to use the special tool to disassemble the clutch assembly.

[@RideHard58]

I just had to have my whole clutch pack replaced because those brass rivets broke! Gouged my stock basket to the point it could not be used. Wish I would have found yor site first--- I could've done the job myself. Thanks so much for your vids, they have made repairs on my 145,000 mile softail VERY easy!!!!

[@take1u2]

THOSE ARE RIVETS THE MIDDLE SPRING CLUTCH PACK IS FAILING. REPLACE QUICK OTHERWISE IT WILL EAT THE CLUTCH BASKET. GO TO 9 PACK CLUTCH

[@brandaven]

Thanks alot. Saved the day. Im a do it myselfer. And thanks to videos like yours it builds ones confidence. Keep up the great vids. I will be back. Bagger Dave

[@lynskyrd]

VTwinOnline- good vid, and on the spring plate with the rivets- get rid of it all together. Get a Rivera clutch pack or equivalent with the extra plate. The diaphragm spring plate is stronger and you'll never have to worry about rivets coming loose. Again- good vid, good demonstration on the compression tool.

[@Glyder1959]

Great series of repairs for those of us that love our Evo’s. Very informative and narrated too. Thanks a bunch.

[@VTwinOnline]

R&D - thank you for your kind words. So glad it can reveal a few things for folks interested in attempting this repair themselves.

[@gkafinn]

Thanks for showing the Special Tool usage, very helpful.

[@lynskyrd]

that rivet plate is bad... replace it with a kit from Barnett or Rivera that eliminates the need for a rivet plate and you'l never had to worry about broken rivets inside your clutch pack. You did a good job on these vids... thank you.

[@VTwinOnline]

lynskrd - thank you so much for thanking the time to comment. That's exactly the partnership we all need as riders to help each other out.

[@lynskyrd]

@@VTwinOnline I like - LOVE the fact that you don't try and pretend you're something you're not. You even showed your 'fail' which BTW- we have ALL turned that clutch hub nut counter-clockwise when trying to remove it. Ride safe.

[@VTwinOnline]

Thank you so much Bagger Dave. Your positive conments make me want to start my next video right now. I hope to be posting again soon. Thanks again, Scott

[@VTwinOnline]

@ Robert Neilly - Thank you for sharing your expertise in reference to the spring plate. This is exactly why I posted the videos, so I could too learn from visitors. I never claimed to be an expert on these maters and have articulated the same in my profile. The objective is to take the mystery out if the startor replacement. Thank you for your valuable input.

[@teedoubleu4946]

those "little bitty screws"that fell out of the fat plate, needs to be replaced. Barnette makes an extra plate kit, that the extra plate does away with the fat plate. Those rivets will really mess up the clutch linings. Rivets are the "little bitty screws". harley does make a replacement fat plate.

[@VTwinOnline]

@ FABTECH - Thanks for the great suggestion. That's exactly why I put up the video, is so we all can share our different experience. On one of the other video, an other guest commented on replacing that disk to get rid of the rivets. Thanks again, Scott

[@philcaron]

Thank you very much!

[@supersistersdollyivory2053]

Thank you mate for the video if it wasn't for you I'd still pulling my hair out 😂 made it all very easy 👍🏽👍🏽

[@VTwinOnline]

You bet! Glad I could provide some incite. Always use the manual to make sure all is well with the repair. And thank you for your kind words.

[@johncasor9698]

great video.... learning is what is about.....

[@NJtrainer]

I watched a few of your videos,they were a big help (just like other people said here before me) But I have a question: towards the end of the video , when you re-install the clutch adjuster and jam nut, you then check your clutch action. HOW is that possible?? I thought before you remove all of the clutch parts, you must run the clutch cable free play adjustment all the way in, to have a slack cable. Am i wrong, on that.??

[@obfuscated3090]

That particular clutch tool style allows best access to the hardware. You can use the cheaper "notched cylinder" style tools but I don't any more. The stock clutch is dumpster bait especially the abortion "anti-rattle" plate with the rivets. If you take the bike down this far I suggest having a new rear drive belt (you will have done the major work removing the primary drive) and new clutch in hand so you don't lose riding time waiting for parts. The way to intercept inevitable failure in the aircraft world is "time change" where you replace parts before they shit the bed. I treat my personal ground vehicles the same way. Dead belt or dead alternator can mean a tow bill that costs more than either or both. When I changed my final drive belt gear ratio I upgraded my alternator since I was in there anyway. Stocker has some arc marks on the plug and socket and while I could re-pigtail it easily (and will then stash it for an emergency spare), so I upgraded to the Cycle Electric alternator version with the late style pigtail and higher output. I like Harleys because you can, and I have, run them for decades and have abundant upgrade parts available. I keep a full new alternator kit including rectifier-regulator, a new rear drive belt, and new rear drive pulleys for my FXR because I KNOW I will eventually use them, they will not get cheaper, and the alternator also fits my Shovelheads and FXLR so it just makes sense to buy in advance. I don't buy toilet paper by the sheet either. :-) I also keep full engine and transmission seal and gasket sets. Given the certainty of needing them, why wait if you have a choice? Have a systematic fleet maintenance strategy for all your vehicles. The time and money you save is totally worth it.

[@VTwinOnline]

This is a great comment! Would love to see this get more like and bump it to the top. Thank you for being so thorough.

[@VTwinOnline]

@NJtrainer - You are absolutely correct. Step 3 on page 6-8 of the 1995 Softail Service manual states you should, in reference to figure 6-9, "Loosen the jamnut and remove the adjuster screw and jamnut." (On the Cable) I skipped this step. To me there are two places in the system to make adjustments. The cable and the Clutch Adjusting Screw. As you release/engage the clutch at the lever, while you loosen / tighten the Clutch Adjusting Screw, you can "feel" the play left in the clutch.

[@VTwinOnline]

@RideHard58 - Sorry to hear about your luck and thank you for sharing your experience. At least the site will be up for you to reference next time. Thank you for your kind comments. Scott V-TwinOnline . com

[@johncasor9698]

That's what happen to my factory clutch those little brass rivets came off... there is only one steel plate that has those brass rivets they are for so they say they make the clutch easy to pull in or it makes it quieter... it blew apart at 48K miles. so i got a new clutch at harley davidson Dealership that did not have those brass rivets ,,, i think it was a Screamin' Eagle Performance Clutch...

[@VTwinOnline]

@ernofsteel007 - First, thank you for your service in the industry. Without you we would all be in a lot of trouble. Second, thank you for taking the time to comment. Your comments, and those of others, motivate me to make more of the same; or they address errors - I appreciate both. Sometimes, all we need is to just watch over someone’s shoulder to get an idea on how stuff works. Good luck on your sled, but I am sure you don’t need it. Sincerely, Scott V-TwinOnline . com

[@keoni7383]

Okay after you replace your stator and get your primary case back on how many Quarts of oil do you poor into your primary case ?

[@JamesAllmond]

Thanks for posting this, it has made my cussing abet a wee bit. My Evo does not have that evil ass clutch, none of mine did, I skipped those years. So what does someone bring me? A1994 FXRP to mount a sidecar, that part went well, the burning of the clutch by the owner was not part of the plan... so, being nice guy, said, no worries, I'll take care of it, thinking it had a nice normal HD clutch like all of mine, but nooooo, it has this damnable thing and of course, I don't have the special tool...and no, I never owned a Sportster, so never needed it...and don't now...damned ridiculous just to change the damned clutch plates, vent over, this has now become the problem of the shop who did the work to prep the bike for the sidecar (it sat up a while)...I will mount a sidecar for you, but I am not your mechanic...again vent over and there is a reason HD stopped using that clutch set up on big twins....PITA is all that it was...

[@tommys2979]

Is that spring compressor required to put the snap ring back in? I broke the teeth on the clutch hub itself taking the snap ring out. Now before i buy a new one do i need that tool to put it all back together?

[@VTwinOnline]

@NJtrainer - (Continued) as always, when in doubt follow the manual. I feel the clutch cable adjustment is there as a convenience so you don't have to dig into the primary. But hey... I was already there... so why not make the adjustment at the clutch rather than the cable. Those are just my thoughts. Again, I am not an AMI trained mechanic. I adjusted the clutch, at the clutch adjusting screw, and made sure I had "free" play, 1/16th to 1/8th gap at the lever as I tightened the screw.

[@tchogworks1987]

I know this is a old video but what is the purpose of the thick spacer plate in there? Wouldn’t a extra clutch disk and steel plate be of more use? I’ve not worked on a evo clutch before

[@waynenace8326]

I think those brass screws was pressure plate rivets worn loose. Notorious at about 35,000 miles

[@diablo-km2ot]

The plate is broken needs to be replace on 2:57, what's falling out are the ribits they are broken it will fall into your trans. you need an extra clutch plate kit to fix the problem.

[@VTwinOnline]

Agree 👍

[@Yeeet278]

Isbt your adjusting screw c clips to the bearing?

[@deweygilley3]

First of all you need to remove the plate with the iddy bitty screws and throw it away if you try to put it back with those loose you will destroy your clutch

[@ProBird79]

Thank you for your videos, they are very helpfull!! On my ring (the full circle that goes behind the lock ring) there is a lip. I can't tell that well in this video, but what direction does the ring go?.

[@dmkext1]

did you ever find out?

[@VTwinOnline]

@vicleromc - Awesome. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment on my post. Sharing of information is exactly why I started the V-TwinOnline channel. When folks like you share their thoughts, the channel becomes that much better. Thank you again Scott V-TwinOnline . com

[@VTwinOnline]

piklepinner - Awesome comment. Thank you! This is exactly why I posted the videos... so we could all work together and help each other out. Thank you again - Sincerely, Scott V-TwinOnline . com

[@MrPrankster18]

Definitely don't want to reuse the broken spring plate!!!! Great job showing how not to fix your clutch to the masses. Put the wrenches and camera down!!!! Wonder how many people you just taught to put sheared off rivets back in clutch.ID10T.

[@kvmaddog]

Thank you my man. What you showed me in this video answered my question. Now I am brave heart in trusting my ability to replace my clutches on my evo softail. One more question? I have factory clutch with 90,000 miles . Anything to inspect besides metal plates? Thank s in advance.

[@VTwinOnline]

Hi Kevin, Sometimes all we need is someone to simply show us what is going on behind the green curtain; that was my goal with this video series. As for what to look for? I would seriously reconsider if I was going to put a stock HD clutch pack back into the bike. Barnett makes a clutch pack that eliminates those brass rivets. Check the comments and you will find more about it. And lastly, be sure to have your manual and for God's sakes have a torque wrench! You can borrow them for free at the auto parts store. lol Lastly, don't watch just my videos, watch several....that way anything I left out or did poorly might be covered. There are several comments and tips that I could have improved. Good luck.

[@brutalkidde15]

ive got a gilera runner and it has an electric start, to start it up i jus have to give it a little gas while holding the start button but i wish only to hold the start button so if i buy this stator plate will it fix my problem

[@nitroitch]

👍🏻

[@paulskates21]

That plate with the brass screws should be replaced, they tear up your clutch. One of them fell out and destroyed my clutch

[@omarmendez6081]

replace with what?

[@leathers970]

Spring plate

[@VTwinOnline]

ProBird79 - Not sure, I did not notice a lip on my "shim" / "washer".

[@deepaksavant6930]

Rivets in spring plates are tight or loose ...please reply???

[@VTwinOnline]

@Jehovahourgod - Good tip. Thanks for taking the time to post your comment; I do appreciate your input. V/r, Scott V-TwinOnline . com

[@diablo-km2ot]

will it work on a 1990 fxst softail? also where can i get one

[@heatherfield8710]

That was a failed spring plate and those are the brass rivets, and you will have to take it out again digest going to an extra plate clutch from barnett

[@VTwinOnline]

Heather, Awesome! Thank you for participating in the comments. You and other have suggested the same. I will definitely make the fix you suggested. Sincerely, Scott

[@johnsilivriyanos]

WHY DO YOU NEED A LITTLE BIT OF CLUTCH PLAY AT THE END OF THE VIDEO WHEN YOU BUTTONED IT UP AFTER YOU PUT ON THE FINAL ADJUSTING SCREW? IS THAT IMPORTANT OR NOT? WHY DO YOU WANT THAT CLUTCH TO HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF PLAY AND HAVE IT SNAP BACK AND FORTH A LITTLE?

[@THETALLBAND]

Are there after market riveted pressure plates available? or can one simply omit that plate for another friction and steel pressure plate? If they are still available< where can I find? im riding a 91 electra glide sport with 100k+ miles on her.. thanks K Hill

[@VTwinOnline]

Keith, Check the other comments. Several guys have indicated there are alternative clutch plates out there. I believe Barnett part number is mentioned. Good luck and let us know how things go.

[@loseyourlife4042]

I keep cracking pressure plates

[@VTwinOnline]

You bet!

[@mrbilly800]

do you need the tool on a 85?flt

[@scottydntno]

what are the brass screws?

[@waynenace8326]

Pressure plate rivets

[@VTwinOnline]

@brutalkidde15 - As an old wrench told me once, sometimes you gotta run it 'till it breaks. Giving a bike a little gas is no big deal, unless you are talking fuel injected; then you might have a problem. For those unfamiliar with a gilera see: uk.gilera.com/en_UK/prodotti/r­unner/runner_st_200/default.as­px Good luck, Scott VTwinOnline . com

[@thrashordie232]

How do I do it without a special tool

[@VTwinOnline]

Doug, jamb a rag in there. Or a block of wood

[@eliedelorme9945]

Seriously, that is a massacre !

[@VTwinOnline]

Lol

[@vincealdridge6417]

What is the name of that tool I need one

[@VTwinOnline]

Vince search google for: tool clutch removal harley-davidson

[@robertneilly4349]

The spring plate needs to be replaced. If the brass rivets are loose its toast.common problem. It shows u dont no much about what u r doin. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing

[@carlhouston5710]

Where can I find that tool?

[@VTwinOnline]

V-Twin MFG.

[@user-is6oe4vb2y]

Amazon

[@robl6570]

re you still online doing videos

[@VTwinOnline]

It's been a while since i have made any new stuff.

[@VTwinOnline]

Not sure, check your manual, it will let you know. Good luck, Scott V-TwinOnline . com

[@cesarantoniosoto1762]

mecanica al dia

[@VTwinOnline]

@moonmesa1 - Baaa haa haaa! : )

[@jimbo1600]

I dont recommend taking the clutch apart still in the bike. Clutch should be taken apart on the bench.

[@VTwinOnline]

@moonmesa1 I still laugh at this commebt!

[@leathers970]

Spring plate