Changing The Clutch Plates On A 1989 Harley FXRS-SP

Late 1984 to 1989 wet clutch simplicity. No special H-D tools required.
* Due to recent problems encountered by a viewer, I would recommend to any one performing this job that you replace the four original clutch hub bolts, and install new ones.

[@hulkingowl]

Absolutely killer video. My grandpa and I don't know much about bikes so we paid a guy we knew $2500 to get it running and the fucker returned it in worse condition all taken apart a year later so we decided to work on it ourselves. Found a book that was pretty good but your vid blows it out of the water, thanks!

[@stirlingshire]

I'm happy to know that it has been helpful! Watching videos really helped me out when working on my bike. I have the service manual, but it leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to describing the steps and videos have filled in the gaps. I hope all goes well getting your bike back up and running.

[@pieterdakota6666]

Thanks for the comprehensive howto guide, very well put together!

[@stirlingshire]

Thanks for watching!

[@michaelalzamora1551]

I don't know if you will ever get this or not,,,but great video.i have same clutch.and been rebuilding my entire bike.and for the love of things I could not understand how to check between A,B, or C on the spring.but now I finily get it.i have several books but could not understyand.so thanks again.great show...

[@stirlingshire]

Thanks for the kind words and I'm glad it helped. Good luck on the rebuild and I appreciate you watching.

[@TheGreatRondo]

Thank you for such a great video. Just put 55 miles on it this morning and no problems. So it did just turn out to be the pushrod adjustment.

[@stirlingshire]

Great news and a big sigh of relief! Always happy to hear the video was helpful, thanks.

[@mattw8834]

Great video..I didn't know what to A,B,C was on pressure plate .20 year evo guy 2..haha.i learned something today thanks

[@stirlingshire]

You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to watch!

[@bikerboot888]

Just what I needed. Thanks

[@Jimbobscommentarychannel]

Great Video the red font was a bit hard to read but thanks I'll use your video to work on my 1984 FXRS

[@883WAYNE]

Nice tidy job mate.... EVO powered!

[@stirlingshire]

+Wayne Sams Thank you!

[@savagec10]

that was a good vid thanks have the same year fxr been doin my 97 evo but i know the basket and clutch is different in the 89 like the description

[@stirlingshire]

Thanks for watching and I hope it helps, somewhat. Good luck with the '97.

[@savagec10]

97 s perfect shes a dyna andrews ev27 cam thunderheader and other odds and ends never been in the shop and had her since 97 its my 89 fxr i never did the clutch on yet Thanks

[@stirlingshire]

I actually had my sights on a FXD before I found my FXR. Great bike, evo or twin cam.

[@savagec10]

evo vids are on my page 2 fxrs dyna and a roadglide i sold for to get the black fxr sooner the fxr way better all my bikes are evos the roadglide was twincam i swithched in from fuel infested to carb made it better but i like simplicity so i got another evo

[@KoolMada]

Nice video... quick question. I have an 86 FXR that I plan on doing the clutch this spring. I want to be do it once and be done with it so I rather order everything I need at once (meaning spacers and friction plates). So can you recommend a good clutch kit that has everything? I was on JP cycles and they have a few different Barnett kits. I just don't know which one I should buy. Thanks!

[@stirlingshire]

I was able to get Screamin' Eagle friction plates through Harley-Davidson, and I could have gotten spacers as well. The Screamin' Eagle plates are Kevlar. Barnett's Kevlar plates don't come with spacers together in a kit, but their performance carbon fiber plates do. I've never used carbon fiber plates, so I can't speak for their durability, but my Kevlar plates are holding up very well. JP sells spacers separately for around 7 dollars each, and you would need 7 of them, if you choose to go with Kevlar rather than carbon fiber. The cost, either way, is very close. Hope this helps.

[@g.c.wheeler.805]

Good video

[@stirlingshire]

Thank you, and thanks for watching!

[@ravns3001]

Great video - but managed to brake 3 bolts when setting the torque to 6.5 😫 figured it was the torque that said click-done. But in fact was the bolts snapping.

[@stirlingshire]

Sorry to hear that. I hope you were able to extract them without too much aggravation. I have a ratcheting torque wrench that i haven't learned to trust, so I keep using a cheap beam style torque wrench.

[@ravns3001]

stirlingshire Thx - unfortunately dont have the tools, nor trust my skills - so I’ll send it to the pros tmr. 💸😤

[@1EasyCruiser]

Great Video! Would you happen to know what's involved with adding an extra spacer to get the correct spring adjustment? Is it just an additional stock steel? My friction and steels are all within limits and adjustment is on "B" but still have a.030 gap. Thanks!

[@stirlingshire]

Thanks! According to the service manual you can add one stock steel spacer to achieve the desired adjustment. I had used my old steel spacers with new friction plates, all within spec, and I just made it on the adjustment.

[@stirlingshire]

The manual wasn't specific on where to add the spacer in the stack.

[@1EasyCruiser]

@@stirlingshire Thanks for the info!

[@wiggwamm65]

this is exactly what I need to set up my clutch,but I just can't read the red typing. is there any way you could help me out even with just the last few minutes setting the spring? regards Anto

[@stirlingshire]

No problem. If you already have the steel spacers and friction discs in the hub and the pressure plate is in place, the next step is the spring and adjustment plate. The adjustment plate has three levels of adjustment for pressure of the spring, A, B, or C. The holes marked A are the neutral position and a good starting point. Place the adjustment plate against the outer center of the spring so that they interlock, then place in position against the pressure plate with the A holes lined up with the four hub posts. Thread in the bolts, a half turn at a time, in a cross pattern until torqued at 6.5 to 8 ft/lbs. Do not use Loctite yet. Place a straight edge across the diaphragm spring right beside, but not on, the adjustment plate. Ideally the spring should be flat against the straight edge. Use a feeler gauge to measure any gaps between the spring and straight edge, they cannot exceed 0.010 inches, whether the gaps are at the outer edge( convex ) or near the center( concave ). If the gap exceeds this measurement then the adjustment plate has to be turned to the next set of holes. If the gap is at the outer edge of the spring, use the holes marked B and, if the gaps are near the center, rotate the plate to the holes marked C. If you have the plate adjusted to the B holes and there are still gaps at the outer edge of the spring greater than 0.010 inches, an extra steel spacer can be added in the clutch hub. It's better to have slightly too much pressure than not enough. Once you have the adjustment plate set correctly, back the bolts out, apply purple Loctite or equivalent threadlocker and re-tighten to final torque. Just to clarify, you want the spring to be as flat as possible. The holes marked B will increase pressure on a spring that is convex and holes marked C will decrease pressure on a spring that is concave, if the starting point was the A position. Turn the pushrod adjustment screw in clockwise, by hand, until the backing plate that it threads into just starts to move. You might have to turn the screw back and forth a few times to see the movement. You will also feel a slight increase in the pressure needed to turn the screw. At this point back the screw out, counterclockwise, 3/4 of a turn, and tighten the locknut. Holding the pushrod adjustment screw with an allen key, or equivalent, so that it cannot move, torque the locknut to 10 ft/lbs. If you don't have a pass-through torque wrench( I don't ) you can use a crows foot wrench turned to 90 degrees on a standard torque wrench, or a couple of good tugs with a regular wrench works. 10 ft/lbs isn't much so don't over do it. I hope this covers what you needed. If not, drop me another question. Be as specific as you want and I'l try to help out.

[@TheWildangel72]

Great video. Clear explanation. Just a question, and I hope you can help me. I've a 1988 FXRS. My clutch starts to work (engage) too late on the hand clutch lever excursion. (after 3/4 of lever excursion). Is it normal? On my old 1996 FXSTC the clutch started to work much earlier Clutch cable free play is correct. The pushrod adjusting screw, the same. Is it normal on 1985-89 models this situation?

[@stirlingshire]

My clutch definitely starts to engage earlier than that, about a third to half of the lever travel. There is wiggle room with clutch cable free play (1/8 to 3/16 inch) that may allow you to adjust it enough to hasten the engagement a bit. My concern would be the clutch not fully engaging with it catching so late in the lever travel. Do you experience any slippage under acceleration? When clutch plates are worn out, or close to it, proper adjustment wont be possible. If you have already replaced these, it could be the preload on the spring( A, B, C on the adjuster plate). How much of a gap is there between the spring and adjuster plate? If the gap is greater than 0.010 inch with new friction discs, an extra steel spacer can be added to the stack to achieve proper preload( assuming the adjuster has been rotated to maximum preload). If clutch spring preload is good and clutch cable freeplay is correct, I would revisit the pushrod adjusting screw.

[@TheWildangel72]

no clutch slippage . In the street runs great. Just the problem about the clutch lever travel : too late on engage . Tomorrow I'll check the gap of pressure plate.

[@stirlingshire]

Best of luck on getting it sorted out.

[@TheWildangel72]

So, friend of mine ,HD mechanic, tested the bike and he said the clutch travel it's ok. Now, I think that the (supposed) problem, is the "feeling" with the 82-95 clutch hand lever. On my old 1996 fxstc equiped with the new style OEM "ergonomic" clutch lever ,the feeling was different. I'll buy a pair of new style hand lever (very cheap) and I'll try the difference. Thank you so much for your interest .

[@stirlingshire]

Thanks for the update. I'm glad everything worked out.

[@TheGreatRondo]

I've a 86 FXRS-SP. I changed the primary fluid. Put in 1.5 quarts as stated in manual. That brought it up to the bottom of the derby hole cover. Well...Went for a ride and clutch started slipping! After awhile it was totally gone! would not grab. Was told by many that the book was wrong. No more than a quart. The level should just touch the pressure plate. In your video you stated to fill it to the clutch hole opening. That brings the level to the adjuster plate. So my question is...what's right 1 quart or to the bottom of the opening? I'm replacing my plates and spacers and don't want to blow the new set.

[@stirlingshire]

I have always put in the 1.5 quarts and have not experienced any problems in the 20 years I've owned the bike. I don't think one quart would be an issue either as everything is still going to receive lubrication while you ride anyway. The clutch plates definitely dip into a single quart so maybe the engineers wanted the primary chain and chain tensioner slider wet before the ride begins. If clutch spring pressure is set correctly, the quart and a half shouldn't cause any issues. Any mechanic I have seen on video will fill the primary to the bottom of the derby cover hole.

[@TheGreatRondo]

@@stirlingshire Thanks for the reply. Just trying to figure out why a clutch that was rock solid would start slipping after a fluid change. I used Amsoil synthetic primary fluid. Now I don't know what was previously used. Could there have been a compatibility issue that would have caused the slipping and the clutch to fail?

[@stirlingshire]

@@TheGreatRondo I have only used Harley Davidson's primary and transmission fluid so I can't speak on different brands and synthetic vs mineral situations. The timing of this occurring is suspicious though. I just looked at a couple of articles and forums which stated( mentioning Amsoil specifically ) that, despite persistent rumors, synthetic primary oil will not cause clutch slippage. One article stated that oils with friction modifying additives can cause slippage and glazing of the plates. Maybe a thicker oil had been used before to compensate for worn plates or a tired spring? Sorry I can't be more helpful with your situation.

[@TheGreatRondo]

You're video has been really helpful and your response. Think I found the issue. Little history. The bike sat the winter in the house with no primary fluid in it for 5 months (WI winter) While I was putting on new front end and polishing the Aluminum parts Primary cover was one. Whether or not that had anything to do with what I found out I don't know. Anyways, upon removing the cover to replace the clutch I loosened the locking nut on the pushrod bolt and the bolt was tight. How it got tightened up is beyond me. I did what your video said on adjusting it. when I backed it off a half turn my clutch handle free play went from 1/8 to 3/8's. When I screwed in the bolt to where I though it was, I could turn the clutch pressure plate by hand (little bit of effort). Going to adjust it set the nut and fill it in the morning and see if that's it. If that solves it I'll still replace the clutch discs I was only cruising at 40 when it slipped for good so I don't know if I glazed 'em or not but why chance it. Thanks again.

[@stirlingshire]

@@TheGreatRondo It took me a couple of tries to fully figure out pushrod adjustment, and that was with the service manual in front of me. Glad you isolated the problem. Thanks for your kind words! Happy riding!

[@ravns3001]

Beware of my mistake - 6:44 in it says to tighten the 4 bolts to 6.5-8. I don’t know how I managed to perceive it, but I broke 3 bolts, IN THE HOLES😪 I figured it was the tork wrench that “clicked”, but discovered my mistake when the first one slid out. Ended up at the shop and they replaced the clutch hub - I then assembled the rest my self. According to them the 4 bolts should just be tied firmly by hand. Nothing wrong with the video - I was just 😵🔫 - but they fixed a few other things 👍🏻

[@stirlingshire]

I'm shocked that the bolts snapped. 6.5 ft/lbs is not a lot of torque, especially for the size of the bolts. The little screws that hold on the clutch inspection cover are in the same torque range. Maybe they had been over-torqued at some previous time, and were weakened prior to you reinstalling them.

[@ravns3001]

stirlingshire most likely the case - which in fact is good, because now it’s all new 😎

[@stirlingshire]

Still, I feel bad that you had to go through the expense and frustration. I have added a recommendation to replace the bolts with new ones in the description.

[@ravns3001]

stirlingshire no worries 😊

[@jeroenknot6796]

perfect vid. thanx i run the same clutch on my(what used to be...hahaha)89´softail. i my case i wil change out the adjusterplate cuase some fuckhead warped(preowner)it steel plates and spring will also be replaced just in case

[@stirlingshire]

Good idea to replace those parts. I wish I had replaced my spacers when I put in the new frictions. They weren't warped, and thickness was within spec, but I was just able to get the correct spring preload with the old ones. Thanks for watching!

[@torocastano4607]

Superb video but unfortunately not too readable by those with vision impairment because the reddish text.

[@stirlingshire]

Sorry about that. Something I hadn't considered, but I will take into consideration from now on. If you need me to clarify anything, just let me know. Thanks for watching.

[@madmanbobtaylor9531]

I tried A B and C and still couldn't get with in .011 inch gap .I wonder what to do next? more like .030

[@stirlingshire]

I used the old steel spacers and just made it with with the Screamin' Eagle plates. I should probably have purchased new spacers. The factory manual states that if need be, an extra steel spacer can be added to the stack, though.

[@madmanbobtaylor9531]

worked like a charm using the extra steel spacer. I spent a couple of hours today trying to get that right . thanks for the help I really appreciate it .

[@stirlingshire]

That's awesome! Glad it worked out.

[@shawnbrannan783]

Great video but I have a question that hopefully someone can help me with. I am working on a 1988 FXR basket case. I cant seem to find a video anywhere on how to install the clutch pushrod. I have the same manual that is in this video but I am a visual learner. Can you show a video or does anyone know of a video that goes through clutch pushrod installation? Or is it as simple as sliding the clutch pushrod into the shaft? Thanks

[@stirlingshire]

Hi Shawn. I find the service manual frustrating at times. Sorry, I don't know of any video, yet, about the push rod. I had the left side push rod end slide out in this video. In the service manual, figure 7-15, on page 7-10, it is the part number 25. On page 7-9, under Disassembly, it simply says to remove the three piece push rod from the hole in the main shaft. Sorry that I can't be of any more help than that. If I find out any more, I will post another reply. Thanks and good luck.

[@shawnbrannan783]

stirlingshire yea I saw it fell out I just didn't want to go pushing the rod into the shaft and not knowing if that was right or not, lol. I see the diagram pictures so I knew which rod to order...I guess I just need to know if it is loose in the shaft or if it locks into place or anything. Thanks for the quick response and I subscribed to you channel, great video again.

[@stirlingshire]

Thank you, sir! I changed the clutch cable a while back, and I'm pretty sure that the other end is loose, too.

[@shawnbrannan783]

stirlingshire ok so would you say that the pushrod just slides into the shaft then? I am trying to remember the last one I changed and I could have swore the whole pushrod just slid out and back in...no locking or anything. I just wasn't sure if I was remembering it correctly.

[@stirlingshire]

I don't think it locks into anything. The right side push rod piece is the only thing I'm not really sure about and I can't find anything online about it. I'm going to keep looking and if I find anything I'll leave you a reply.

[@203dyl]

Do you have the diagram of how to clutch plates go in?

[@stirlingshire]

I typed 1989 harley evolution clutch exploded view into the bing search bar and the first picture in images is from the service manual. Start with a steel spacer and alternate with friction plates until finishing with a steel spacer.

[@203dyl]

@@stirlingshire also do you know on the stiffness plate which one is the softest out of the A, B, and C? Thanks for the response

[@stirlingshire]

@@203dyl The C position puts the least pressure on the clutch spring. B puts the most pressure on the spring.

[@zippahead]

What if your release plate is stripped out ....no threads.?

[@stirlingshire]

After general disassembly for clutch plate removal, etc, remove the retaining ring from inside the pressure plate. Push old release plate out of the pressure plate and put in new one. Put retaining ring back in place in the pressure plate. I would recommend a new screw adjuster to go with the new release plate. Dennis Kirk sells the parts if Harley doesn't any more.

[@stirlingshire]

This is for the late 1984 to 1989 wet clutch, although it looks relevant to the 1990 clutch as well.

[@mikephillips7608]

Red letters are hard to read white would be better

[@mevcarter6664]

I cannot read fast changing red text against a dark background and watch the procedure at the same time 😕. May I suggest you lose the music and provide a narrative in it's place?

[@stirlingshire]

Sorry, I no longer have the files to do another edit. All I can recommend is turning off the volume and pausing the video to read the text.

[@keithcoleman1836]

Can't read a dam thing with the red print

[@wiggwamm65]

this is exactly what I need to set up my clutch,but I just can't read the red typing. is there any way you could help me out even with just the last few minutes setting the spring? regards Anto