Still Struggling with the Hunger Gap

[@Im-just-Stardust]

Massive respect man ... it is not easy to do what you do.

[@REDGardens]

Thanks!

[@blackoak4978]

Watching these videos I'm getting a huge increase in my respect for people of the past who needed to grow food to live. The fact that this much diligent experimentation can still lead to dearths of food, and in a relatively moderate climate is astonishing. Around Toronto our spring went from too cold to grow to too HOT to grow almost immediately. Of the spinach I was growing I got 1 plant that grew enough to produce 2 or 3 good leaves before it got so hot it bolted. Second year in a row the spinach failed due to weather, so I think I'll skip it next year

[@pansepot1490]

There’s a reason why we have the word “famine” in the dictionary.

[@REDGardens]

Yeah, it can be tough to keep food flowing! I think, or at least hope, that if I wasn't doing so many experiments, and expanding so much, I would be able to focus more on what was growing and to be able to catch things before gaps like this. But perhaps there will always be distractions unless there was the real risk of food security!

[@Qopzeep]

Don't feel bad, my spinach did exactly the same. It grew great until suddenly a hot spell all sent them bolting, even though the weather cooled back down relatively quickly. Same last year.

[@gabriellakadar]

I'm not generally someone who believes all the stuff about companion planting, but this year wherever I allowed chamomile to grow, none of the brassicas have had even one flea beetle bite. The leaves are pristine. The brassicas growing in the bed where I removed the chamomile plants at their early growth stages have been damaged. Now that the chamomile is so tall in one bed that it arches over the path towards the previously flea beetle damaged brassicas, the flea beetles have disappeared. There are no holes in the inner leaves of the mustard plants. It's quite amazing to be honest. I've never had the chamomile growing in amongst the brassicas before but next year I will again allow the chamomile to grow with brassicas. For the first time I've got some Leek Moth damage of a few garlic scapes.....if it's not one thing it's another.

[@REDGardens]

That is interesting. thanks for sharing your experience.

[@akicarus9508]

even though i am located in alaska, i really appreciate your mad scientist content. thank you RED

[@REDGardens]

👍😀

[@BeckJoseR]

Glad to see you have another successful garden growing, even if you've run into some hurdles. I wish you a bountiful harvest this year!

[@REDGardens]

Thank you. there are always hurdles where expanding. One of these years I will not expand, and consolidate, and hopefully be able to manage everything better!

[@PaoloBroccardo]

Same problem with flea beetles on my arugula and brassica crops here. A sprinkle of diatomaceous earth on the crops and soil took care of the problem instantly. (Hungary, Zone 7, sandy soil). Actually, I tried this last year on my one arugula plant, and this year its growing and spreading with a vengeance like a weed all over the bed. I'm not complaining.

[@REDGardens]

I haven't tried diatomaceous earth. It would be worth trying in some cases, but with the amount of area I have and the range of crops that would need to be affected, I would need a lot! I am also not sure about the impact on other creatures that I don't want to harm, so I would probably use it only sparingly.

[@PaoloBroccardo]

Yep, I had the same moral dilemma. Especially when I learnt how it works and what it does to bugs. Which is why I like your idea of growing extra "catch crops" as a way of enticing them away from the main crops. Definitely something I'm going to try next year.

[@baconbits9]

How about adding in perennial fruits to fill this period in? Strawberries, blackberries, gooseberries, currents, rhubarb etc put out fruit fairly early in the season from last years stored energy. If you have a prevailing wind a thick row of gooseberry bushes could also act as a wind break to shelter a few rows of your seedlings at the same time.

[@thoralfsahn]

In addition to that, asparagus is a perennial vegetable that is harvested during the problematic time.

[@REDGardens]

Fruit definitely would help. We have some, but not enough yet.

[@REDGardens]

I really want to grow asparagus again. The last batch I had got overwhelmed by scutch grass.

[@homestead.design]

This is what I do: Let your brassicas go, I get 1/3rd the greens from brassicas in the next early spring as from primary harvest. Asparagus shows up quick and is a real provider Pac Choi/asian cabbages in the High tunnel or indoors (they grow so fast) Sweet potato Greens indoors Microgreens of pea and sunflower (they are cheap) Beans and Butternut Squash (they keep.... for a LONG time) Freezer storage Learn what early 'weeds' are tasty too, I am now getting into Lambs quarter The hunger gap is real and thank you! you are one of the main farmers I see focusing on it. I think we have workable systems now, but there is very likely to be a month or at worst two. Where access to fresh harvest greens will be reduce. If you do not have frozen brassicas/spinaches etc. Keep it up I watch every video!

[@PaleGhost69]

Have you considered trying perennial versions of some of the crops? Generally they come up earlier and you don't have to replant them every year. Two birds, one stone.

[@REDGardens]

There aren't many perennial versions of the veg I usually grow. the only one I did successfully this season was the runner beans. The aubergines and peppers I tried to overwinter died.

[@MrBananaaMan]

@@REDGardens you can get some perennial kale , taunton Deane kale is a good one I grow

[@Qopzeep]

I've faced much of the same issues that you discuss in your video. So far my rucola and radishes were decimated, and my spinach bolted too early. I've been getting great, reliable harvests from my chard and red russian, but the real star of the season so far have been my three perennial kale plants, which have given me and my family consistent harvests of tasty leaves. In the early season, no pest seems interested in it, making it a low maintenance crop. I have no idea what variety it is, but it's not taunton deane. You can put them in a corner of the garden and mostly forget that they're even there, but in the April-June period, they're a reliable friend in the garden. And you can propagate them from cuttings, so they scale up well. Also, you could consider growing and storing grains for this part of the season. Barley and oats would store beyond the hunger gap and offer a good nutritional boost to your garden's output. Anyway, thanks for another inspirational video! Always happy to see one of your videos pop up in my feed 🙂!

[@JohnDoe-ib3hr]

The only solution I ever found that genuinely got rid of Flea beetle pressure was encouraging as many insectivorous birds into my growing space as possible, scattering dry mealworms around the crops that are most susceptible to get the birds where you want them helps a lot. Also lots of buckets/containers of standing rainwater with rotting vegetation has probably helped as I have copious dragonflies and hover flies too but I don't know if that helped or not.

[@Gmbrunis]

I am in NE United States, flea beetle pressure has been bad this year. We have stared using a product called Proteknet insect netting to keep out flea beetles and other brassica pests. To properly utilize it, there must be a good "seal" around the protected crop so we use lengths of conduit on top of the cover along the edges of the beds, held down by rock bags. Very effective! Easily reusable as well. Highly highly recommend. It is expensive and worth it.

[@crowlsyong]

Man I'm really sorry to hear about the pest issues. This is tough to hear, and I only have two raised beds. I hope you're navigating it well, you seem to be a wise, humble, and proactive person so keep up the good work. I hope the rest of your season/next season is a little better.

[@REDGardens]

Thank you. It is tough to put in the effort only to have to abandon the crop, but it happens. All part of growing it seems.

[@thebackyardbrewer5611]

You almost need to grow short hedges to protect from the wind on you beds, or build a walled garden? Can you grow rosemary? That makes a good shorter hedging plant

[@REDGardens]

Unfortunately, the main gardens are on an open, shared common space, with public access. I can't really put up windbreaks close to the gardens like that, without taking up significant amounts of growing space, which I am hesitant to do. We are workmen on better windbreaks further away, which will have some benefit.

[@rosea830]

Flea beetles skeletonize the eggplant here. I've learned that if you grow the plants high enough off the ground, they can't jump to them. 30 inches or 76 cm seems to be higher than they can reach. I use an old patio table and root bags. You could make a table from pallets or use whatever you have on hand. Those tables could be used to partially shade your lettuce so they don't bolt as quickly. I also interplant onions and carrots because the onions seem to deter the carrot flies, haven't had a problem with them since I started doing that. I don't know if they would help with the turnip issue. Do they attack every turnip variety over there or is it just the white ones? I grow pink and purple varieties and the worst pest here are pill bugs.

[@REDGardens]

Growing them high does sound like an interesting thing to try. Thanks. The flea beetles haven't damaged out eggplant, thankfully, and this year the aphids have been a lot less. I only have experience with the while turnip, but the rutabaga/swede also get damager. Interesting to hear that you had success with the intercropping of onions and carrots. I have tried that and didn't work at all.

[@joshmann7587]

@@REDGardens yea the inter cropping didnt do anything at all for me either in that case.

[@clivesconundrumgarden]

Being so busy observing, recording and learning from 6 different systems must play a big roll as well. But at the end if the day weather plays the biggest role I feel, not only on bolting or slow grow but also influencing pest pressures. Excellent video as always:) Cheers from Victoria Canada

[@REDGardens]

Thanks! And hello there in Victoria!

[@jaredm328]

Great video! Just a side note that overwintered kale produce flower shoots in the spring that are very much like broccoli. Pick them and more will grow back. It serves as a very nutritious green before most crops are ready in early spring. Don't pick too late or they will become more woody. You may already know this but good for other viewers to know.

[@REDGardens]

Yes, I love those 'kale shoots' (as we call them), though I have found that they get really small and tough by May.

[@notone4540]

Nettles fill the hunger gap real nicely. You are welcome!

[@REDGardens]

They are too early here in Ireland to fill our hunger gap, but are definitely a welcome burst of green and nutrition earlier in the spring to compliment all the stuff still in the cold store.

[@doinacampean9132]

Maybe it's time to shift the focus on the perennial plot for the hungry gap? Plants that are normally foraged at the first sign of spring? Sorrel, orach, nettles (these have an insane amount of protein), hablitzia, claytonia, etc? And maybe take a break for the vulnerable brassicas for a year or 2?

[@bully08873]

Yes, I'd very much recommend dwarf mange-tout in both the polytunnel before the tomatoes, and outdoors- oregon sugar pod. And maybe look for very late season purple broccoli.

[@REDGardens]

Both good recommendations, thanks.

[@badxradxandy]

I learn more from one of your videos than anyone else besides the Australian guy.

[@REDGardens]

Wow, that it great to hear!

[@KiraNeverSurrender]

Try mustard as a trap crop for flea beetles. Works great.

[@mrdaniel1935]

I have a suggestion to covering and uncovering plants u=you were taling about - you ca put stones on one side and on the other fix the ends to a steel aluminium pipe (can also be PCV with sand inside) so you could uncover them in one go. Keep up with good work :)

[@REDGardens]

I was only just working towards that option last week, with steel poles that I recycled from damaged heras fencing.

[@jenmorricone4014]

Yes, great job. You're inspiring to me...We just need water here in So. California.

[@Pixieworksstudio]

Great video Bruce, thank you, you covered so much. My crops were devastated year on year by flea beetle, and the only thing that has got rid of it finally this year is Neem oil, mixed with castile soap, and a few drops of citronella oil. I added some dissolved and sieved garlic powder for good measure to keep away other things - all diluted of course. Now, thankfully flea beetle isn't devastating everything I grow that has a leaf! However, I do have cabbage root fly on a number of things which is such a pain as it can get into so many things. What you are doing there is fantastic, and I can't wait to see the new things you are going to try. I was pretty shocked last week as we are on the borderline zone 8a and 8b, and a fellow gardener near me, Sarrone (Channel- Sow Grow and cook) Had a frost on the 14th of June. my garden was 1 degree in the town, she is up a bit higher. But what a thing - just out of the hungry gap and squash plants in the ground along with everything else! Thankfully things are recovering. However, night-time temps have been so rubbish that everything is on a slow-grow cycle, especially beans. Then on the 17th, yesterday, it was up in the 30s, and today we had a really good soaking! No wonder we talk about the weather so much!😀. Good luck to you for the summer, and I hope the pest issues improve.

[@REDGardens]

Wow, a frost in mid June is rough. I think that is a real possibility here with the shifting climate. The latest I have experienced is the end of May, but by June I usually have my guard down and not paying attention to the forecast so much, and so many things in the gardens that could be killed off. Thanks for the comment, and sharing your experience. Hope the season is better for you from now on.

[@Pixieworksstudio]

@@REDGardens I was pretty shocked to be fair, as well. It is like the season is shifting a month, whereas we tend to gain a month now in October. But June? May, maybe, but not June, please.😄

[@joshmann7587]

The channle OneYardRevolution, did some great stuff with double/triple cover in a poly tunnel, still getting salads to crop in the snow.

[@ianwynne5483]

A thrips net would deter the flea beetle and a larger mesh size net for the cabbage moth or carrot root fly. Put the nets on at time of sowing or transplanting, water using drip tape and leave the plants covered until harvesting.

[@REDGardens]

Yes, I need to use more netting.

[@kubaistube]

Your broccoli is humongous. Very well done. I fight the same pests plus aphids in a greenhouse - eggplants seem to be the biggest magnets there, but even tomatoes were heavily struck though not threatened as much as still small eggplants.

[@REDGardens]

I had huge issues with the aphids in the polytunnel last year, but so far this season they aren't nearly as bad.

[@wandamills4078]

Very interesting, as always. Do you grow any fruits and berries. I haven't seen any in your garden. I'm concentrating on perennials this year. More Haskap, blueberry and Goji, asparagus, walking onions, strawberry and grapes. The weather here in Newfoundland has been awful all spring. The last 2 days were hot, finally. Keep the videos coming!

[@REDGardens]

Thanks! We do grow some fruits and berries. Harvested a load of strawberries yesterday. But want to plant more.

[@joefization]

Great work as always! Quick growing brassicas like napa cabbage was my first thought but it's always a gamble whether they get eaten by pests before we get a chance. I wonder if overwintering sweet potatoes in a poly tunnel could work? They wouldn't be likely to grow much during the winter but keeping them growing until just before they would start sprouting in the spring seems like it may extend their shelf life through spring and into summer.

[@REDGardens]

I need to explore more of the overwintering and fast growing cabbages. Sweet potato would be interesting to try. I suspect it will not like our winters!

[@Qopzeep]

Sweet potato leaves are very productive greens. They'll produce easily, but only if the soil temperature is about 15 C/60 f. But you're right about the tubers, your climate will not yield much.

[@gardenlikeaviking]

same here brother... I find myself eating huge bowls of collard greens and green onions right now lol... the weather here has been insanely hot and very abnormal... high 90's every day and full on blazing sun has really crippled the peas and even the potatoes I'm concerned about... combine that will very little rainfall and the gardens are not looking happy this year..... zone 5b outside Chicago... another great video full of useful information thank you my friend

[@REDGardens]

Yeah, sometimes we do eat a lot of the same vegetable, but at least it is our own! That sounds like really rough growing conditions, especially it the change has been quite rapid. it takes us a while to learn and adapt. I am glad that, so far, the weather hasn't shifted into anything extreme or really unusual here in Ireland. Hope the rest of the season goes well for you.

[@ronk4073]

It sounds like your brassicas were the main problem in the hunger gap this year. Here are some non-brassica that that produce for me during the time you had problems, but I didn't see growing in your garden. All of them can grow outside without cover or protection in my colder climate, and quite a few are perennials so you won't have to worry about planting them out on a schedule, just find a permanent space for them. All winter: Lamb's Lettuce April: Asparagus, Blood Sorrel, Erba Stella May: Asparagus, Blood Sorrel, Erba Stella, Strawberries June: Asparagus, Blood Sorrel, Strawberries, Raspberries, Gooseberries, Currants Lamb's Lettuce (corn salad, mache, other names). Annual super cold hardy to 0F, -17C. Good source of greens in the winter even without protection. I haven't noticed any pest problems. Blood Sorrel (Red-Veined Dock, or Red-Veind Sorrel) Cold hardy perennial, does well without protection. Survived 9F, -12C, came back strong in the spring. No pest pressure. Erba Stella (Minutia) Another cold hardy perennial, survived 9F, -12C and came back in the spring. Not as strong or prolific as Blood Sorrel here, but a cold hardy green that doesn't have pest problems. Asparagus I get a lot of asparagus all spring. Various perrenial berries Starting in May and going through to early July I get a succession of fruit from perennial berry plants. Strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and currants. Raspberries send out a lot of runners that can be a pain to manage. Strawberries send out runners, but are low growing and not nearly as problematic. I feel they are more productive too. Gooseberries and currants are low growing shrubs that are well behaved, though a gooseberry can root from the tips if they touch the ground, so watch out for low bending branches. Maybe you already have a perennial patch in your garden somewhere, but if you did not, these might give you a little extra produce in the hunger gap.

[@timobreumelhof88]

Great video (as usual). We have quite a bit of flee beetle damage too this year. BTW I visited a friend at the beginning of May and she served us Chard. That surprised me. She told me that she uses Chard as an overwintering crop to harvest in spring. Maybe you already tried this but I will for sure try it this winter..

[@REDGardens]

I do rely on chard quite a bit, but think I need to plant it late in the year for a good overwintering crop for the hunger gap.

[@timobreumelhof88]

@@REDGardens Right I was thinking sowing mid august, what do you think?

[@TreyNitrotoluene]

@@timobreumelhof88 Chard likes cool temps to sprout. I start them indoors, seeding around aug 1st. Then transplant them outside round labor day weekend.

[@michaelmcclafferty3346]

An interesting video Bruce, thanks. I like your use of a sacrifice crop and the flame gun for the flea beetle and such like. I lost all my peas on my allotment to mice and broccoli to slugs. I need to find an organic way of dealing with them.

[@REDGardens]

Pests can definitely be a hassle, and searching for the right solution can take a few seasons!

[@TreyNitrotoluene]

A shallow dish of beer works like a charm to kill off slugs in my garden. there are some amazing bucket style mice traps videos here too.

[@GottabKD777]

Wow. Failure after failure. So sorry for you.

[@REDGardens]

Ah, not so bad, mostly my decision to prioritise summer crops.

[@rogerclarke7407]

Great video. See your growing corn this year. I'm looking forward to you update on them. Some of the things that are ready early is asparagus and rhubarb. It takes a couple of years to get established then with a little luck you'll have years of bounty.

[@REDGardens]

Yes, I have two batches of corn in two different polytunnels, and am really interested to see how they turn out. Rhubarb is great and very reliable. I had a patch of asparagus, but it got overtaken by scutch grass so had to abandon it.

[@rogerclarke7407]

@@REDGardens I had to look up scutch grass, It's twitch grass here, not sure which deterrent is doing the most here, wood plank border or covering the area with leaves (mostly oak) some weeds still get through but hand weedable.

[@gratituderanch9406]

We always struggle with root maggots and cabbage bettle.

[@REDGardens]

Do you have any techniques to reduce the damage or keep them away?

[@Sam-lj9vj]

I noticed when you plant the tomatoes, you don't seem to plant the vine itself. It would save you a lot of time later if you plant them as deep as possible. I planted my tomatoes about 12" deep, so the roots get stronger and I am spending less time on keeping them in check.

[@REDGardens]

I have done that in the past, but with this crop I didn't, mainly as I didn't want to dig such deep holes for 150 plants!

[@do4699]

Have you tried snow peas? I'm in a zone with a bit colder winter than you. For us they produce is a bit better than regular peas during May and do well in June. Plus we rarely have pest problems with them. They are delicious sauteed as a side or in stir fries.

[@REDGardens]

I use to grow them, but haven't in a few years, and really should grow them again.

[@bully08873]

I'm glad to see you don't suffer from leaf beet miner. It wrecks my chards. Great video as always.

[@REDGardens]

Thanks! Glad that is one pest I done have to deal with.

[@artandmore575]

Hardles, Hardship,.... part of the job . good luck.!!!!

[@REDGardens]

Yep. Thanks!

[@zogworth]

Long term with our increasingly volatile weather would some sort of hedge/fedge be useful as wind breaks?

[@REDGardens]

Definitely, and planned in for the larger section I manage, but not as suitable for the open site of the family scale gardens, which needs to be maintained as an open access site.

[@andreajones7023]

Since our move to France, I've not been able to stop the relentless flea beetle and get any brassica to survive their onslaught. I have however been cropping mange tout succession sown Feb and Mar, for weeks and weeks now.

[@REDGardens]

That sounds like a tough infestation. Enjoy the mangetout!

[@andreajones7023]

@@REDGardens swings and roundabouts, got the first ripe tomato yesterday so if it is tomatoes versus brassicas I'm happy to stick with tomatoes. I'll sow more kale later in the season and see how that goes.

[@gabrielrebelo]

Here is some perenial for the hunger gap: Allium cernuum Asparagus officinalis, Bunias orientalis, Dystaenia takesimana, Sium sisarum, Crambe maritima, Allium schoenoprasum, Allium tuberosum, Cirsium oleraceum, Hablitzia tamnoides, Blitum bonus-henricus, Urtica dioica, Cryptotaenia japonica, Rumex acetosa, Rheum rhabarbarum, Scorzonera hispanica, Apios americana, Aralia cordata,

[@REDGardens]

Thanks for the recommendations.

[@RominaJones]

Did you theorize a reason why some of the pest issues got a bit much for some crops? Anything you think may have gotten out of balance from the previous year? I wonder if you have found any relief in pest predator attractants such as some flowering plants? I have found older flowering crops in the bed with young ones can work as pest traps. As well, I too have switched over to dry bean types and shelling peas as they go directly to winter storage dried or in freezer. Prime space devoted to considerable winter eating increases each year for me.

[@REDGardens]

I haven't figured out any reason for some of the crops getting hit hard apart from the fact that they are growing more slowly in the cool weather of early spring. I think the last of late frost may have helped the flea beetle as well. And we haven beed so good at controlling the numbers of pests so the population built up.

[@mysticmoontree]

Plants that produce in the months you mentioned that came to mind are: Nasturtium & other eddible flowers, fruits like strawberry, blackberry, plum, cherry, micro green sprouts like broccoli, radish, sunflower, miners lettuce & other wild spring edibles.

[@REDGardens]

Some of those would defiantly work.

[@jimmytyson6726]

You should call the space between the tunnels the hunger gap.

[@REDGardens]

Haha

[@tinnerste2507]

I'm in a similar, but cooler climate than yours. I'm harvesting seakale, lettuce, sugar snap peas, elephant garlic (as leeks) hop shoots and garlic chives. All without cover, except for the lettuce which has afternoon shade

[@REDGardens]

Interesting mix. Hadn't though of elephant garlic as leeks.

[@thornhedge9639]

Did you by any chance do a video on the runner bean overwinter project?

[@homelife8597]

I really like your version of the garden tour. Instead of walking around, you really have to think of a theme and talk through it. Also the size of your land probably would be difficult for you to do that.

[@REDGardens]

Thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoy my approach to this stuff.

[@insidethegardenwall22]

Same issues here in the Pacific NW! Lots of flea beetles damage but can you eat leafy greens with holes in them such as spinach and lettuce? Also, you showed a clip on harvesting a broccoli head, is that recent? Our broccoli plants have big dark green leaves with no heads forming and I wonder if it’s weather related, too early still in the season or poor soil?

[@REDGardens]

Any of this leaves can still be eaten if they have holes in them, though I find they get bitter when too many holes. the spinach and lettuce are mainly damaged by slugs. The broccoli clip was from last year, from an early crop in July, but I think if I managed them better I could get a crop even earlier.

[@chrisw5829]

Will you do an update on how the soil testing is going in the extensive garden?

[@REDGardens]

I haven't taken a soil test this season yet, but hope to do that in the next few weeks.

[@dollyperry3020]

I'm wondering if you could plant shallow rooted plants into deep trays and have them in the greenhouse until the temps get too high and then move them outside.

[@REDGardens]

I do think pots and bags of plants that are moved outside can be an option. I invested in a lot of grow bags this year and grew a few early potatoes that way.

[@bobaloo2012]

I grow a very similar garden here in western Oregon, very similar climate, and have the same struggles with Spring crops in the tunnels versus summer crops. My answer has been interplanting. For example, my rows of trellised tomatoes are pruned so the lower 300mm or so is bare, then a row of lettuce or other short green is planted on each side of the row next to the tomatoes, and finally along the edge of the beds i plant onions. It's worked well for me for some years now, the lettuce / arugula / spinach is out before the tomatoes get huge, and the onions are harvested in July. They are basically "free" in that they take up no space and I get hundreds of good onions that way. Even in my outdoor beds I tend to grow a tall crop with one or two short crops beside it, to maximize the space. I enjoy your videos, nice to get info without being sold anything...

[@REDGardens]

Thanks for sharing your experiences. I definitely want to explore intercropping some more next year.

[@nonyadamnbusiness9887]

I've been working on this issue myself in Florida. The problem here is 97 F/ 36 C and daily rains across summer. Black eyed peas and okra are the only things that grow across the summer and provide a constant food source. Without refrigeration and air conditioning, everything stored would be rotten by now. I'm coming to similar conclusions. I need to figure out how to extend the season of vegetables crops and find some new ones that tolerate the weather.

[@paganpride464]

Have you tried sweet potatoes and true yams?

[@deebirdwell2051]

I’m in Florida too and growing yardlong beans aka asparagus bean, long bean and snake bean. It grows fast and can handle the heat/humidity here.

[@nonyadamnbusiness9887]

@@paganpride464 I grow both and Seminole pumpkin. They aren't ready to harvest until fall.

[@nonyadamnbusiness9887]

@@deebirdwell2051 Those are the same as black eyed peas, another variety of Vigna.

[@paganpride464]

@@nonyadamnbusiness9887 ah right on. You can at least eat the leaves of the sweet potatoes and pumpkin. Then the true yams if you planted extra the year before and left some unharvested, can be dug up during the hunger gap and they will just be bigger. In my area stinging nettles and asparagus are good ones also. We have warigal greens year round as well.

[@recklessroges]

Is there some avian solution to some of the pest problems? (Or would they do just as much damage?)

[@REDGardens]

I don't know. There are a lot of different birds around and I know the wrens and robins will eat insects, but I haven't seen them at the patches. I find birds in the gardens tend to do more damage than good!

[@critterjon4061]

Any advice on growing onions when it comes to using sets vs slips

[@REDGardens]

Sorry, I don't have enough experience to offer advice.

[@danielcunningham2394]

Is soap spray effective for flea beetles? Or is it not considered organic?

[@REDGardens]

I don't know. I haven't tried it.

[@minamandiri8263]

What kind of plant is the purple one, boss?

[@zogworth]

Theres a few. Timestamp the one you're on about?

[@REDGardens]

The small purple heads I was picking are purple sprouting broccoli.

[@minamandiri8263]

@@REDGardensthanks.. I'm from Indonesia just learning to grow vegetables farm greetings

[@jeffyankey7916]

What do you do for pollination?

[@REDGardens]

We have lots of bumblebees and honey bees and other insect pollinators around.

[@m3sca1]

i wonder if an organic spray like garlic or diatomaceous earth would stop the leaf eaters

[@REDGardens]

Possibly. I try to stay away from sprays, and with he size of the area I am dealing with and diversity of different crops I would need to protect, I think it would be an excessive amount of diatomaceous earth. Other people seem to have had really good success with it.

[@What..a..shambles]

Lack of pig problem 👍🏻

[@REDGardens]

👍

[@bolton368]

Do you have beens I've been alerted to the sasanabillity of protein and include fibre 'adem Ragusa'

[@REDGardens]

I grow beans, but not ready just yet.

[@martindelbel]

First! Greetings

[@REDGardens]

Hi there!

[@AtheistEve]

Maybe branch out into edible “weeds”. Nature might have a weed for all seasons.

[@REDGardens]

That is an option. Some of the obvious ones, like nettles and dandelion, are at their prime earlier in the season, and by the 'hunger gap' they are gone to seed. But there are probably other things out there. In another month or more there should be a lot of blackcurrants and other stuff to harvest from the hedgerows.

[@peterkoolwijk439]

Great idea! But be carefull with some of those 'weeds'. Ground elder would easy become a bigger problem then a solution. But there are many more options to choose from. Look up Stephen Barstow, there's a interesting book. Having great admiration for your work Bruce. Thanks for the fantastic content.

[@AtheistEve]

@@peterkoolwijk439 Ground Elder is one of my favourites. Eating it seems to keep it under control.

[@hihello-tp3wi]

Bit of an odd question, I don't personally use pesticides or herbicides and nor do i plan to start using them, though I am curious about your view on it, especially with regards to much of the damage your crops sustained this spring. I can't quite say that I've heard what you thought about them beyond that you just don't use them. I sometimes catch myself wondering if i should use them- like a dirty solution to a complex problem. The idea of just eradicating the problem with minimal effort is pervasive, but comes at a huge cost. Like performance enhancing drugs for physical fitness, they ultimately ruin everything but in the short term, they do a lot.

[@acctsys]

There are organic pesticides. Steer clear of copper though

[@hihello-tp3wi]

@@acctsys I know, I use a couple though they're not nearly as effective or long lasting- which is a selling point. These "organic" ones are usually differentiated from what I was asking about though, captain jacks dead bug is not the same as DDT. Obviously i don't expect red gardens to ever use something that strong, but I just wanted to hear what he actually though about it since i know he doesn't or preferably won't use pesticides.

[@REDGardens]

I haven't mentioned pesticides and herbicides much in may videos, mainly because I don't use them, even the 'organic ones'. My general attitude is that there are other ways to be able to manage most pests, if you know what to do and do it at an appropriate time. I am also concerned about the collateral damage that seems to always come with these types of 'dirty solution to a complex problem' as you call them (great description by the way). With the flea beetle issue, I would probably have forgotten to use the pesticide this spring, just as I had forgotten to use the trap crops, until it was too late. I think most of these pesticides and herbicides have been developed for major mono crops, when there is a lot at stake financially, and a lot of the problems are enabled by the poor management of the soil and ecosystem. The need for easy solutions in these contexts are obvious. In my gardens, there is quite a lot of diversity, and rarely does any one pest cause significant damage. But all of this is within the context of abundance, or at least not being too stressed if a crop fails, as there is always the shop to go to. If I needed to rely on the crop for survive, then I may have a very different attitude, and be more willing to go to the quick and dirty solutions. I see herbicides in this context. I think they are very problematic, especially with how often they are used. But, if I needed to clear a space to grow some food, and needed to establish the garden quickly, and there was a lot of bind weed and other pernicious weeds in the ground, reaching for the easy solution in a bottle of roundup may be an option I would consider, as a once off and carefully application. All other options that I know of take a lot of time/effort/material.

[@iwanttobelieve5970]

You can’t do it all. And you can eat the tops with holes. You can’t sell them like that because people are used to grocery store perfection, unfortunately but you and your family can.

[@REDGardens]

Yeah. We have enough for ourselves, but the Veg Fridge has been a bit empty lately.

[@dennisbrouse1218]

How many people are working on this project with you? I would say a minimum of 4 hard workers for that size garden

[@REDGardens]

Just myself and Kris.

[@KALSINFILMS]

grow arthichoke

[@REDGardens]

They are great!