Stoeger Coach Gun Action Job

[@mikeenos4040]

Breach unlocking upon firing is a good indication of the locking lugs disengaging during recoil is because of a week locking spring. A lot of guys take the lever spring out to cut the end off to disengage the safety when loading. Cooking the gun is when you slide the lever and break the gun ,that cocks the gun and sets the safety. Some remove the spring and and shorten the end that sets the gun on safe and take off a couple of coils of the spring to make it easier to slide the opening lever...but the for get that spring also puts pressure against the locking lugs under the barrel When you weaken that spring under recoil it unlocks the barrel that's why it is opening up a little when you fire it. Replace the lever spring and it keep the barrel locked under recoil. There are other ways to disengage the safety. You can cut the extension off that sets the safety when cocked but don't cut coils off the spring you need that tension to keep the breach locked up under recoil.

[@OldManLife50s]

I agree

[@MikesGunWorld]

I did replace the spring with an original and the breach still blows open. Granted, during a competition, I would be using much lighter loads that I reloaded. It doesn't open with the lighter loads. Just factory.

[@arlenleffmann4966]

This was great video. Very helpful.

[@chiefkikyerass7188]

We're on the exact same path brother..gearing and practicing atm..hope to see you in the spring

[@joegoforth701]

I just had the same problem and I had to take out the lever lock slide and de-burr and polish the slot and the lever lock in addition to mating barrel locking parts. Also adjusted spring to have right tension. Had to de-burr and polish cap that holds firing pins to fix soft strikes. Replaced firing pins with stainless. Stock cracked had to epoxy that back together. Using for cowboy so honed and chamfered chambers.

[@sixshootertexan]

Spring is to weak. Put the safety bar back in and cut the back of the breech spring bar off. That allows you to still have a functioning safety.

[@MikesGunWorld]

I replaced the spring with a factory original and it still blows open..... The gun in the video here is not the one with the problem. It's my other Stoeger. This one is working well. Your feedback is much appreciated. I always retain parts and I may do exactly what you are saying on the safety. Rather have a manual safety versus no safety. Thanks!

[@BarnyDaddy]

Send the shotgun back to Seeger for new barrels. Side-by-side barrels are not interchangeable.

[@bayoumike544]

With a full length Uplander it loosened up after about 50 rounds on its own.

[@chiefkikyerass7188]

Take the barrel and forearm from the old..switch with new one..see what happens

[@barryries4835]

If I had the old coachgun I would try putting in a new spring, I suppose you could shim up the cut spring to see what happens. Also polishing the tops of the locking lugs could help.

[@scottkeller7250]

Damn that really did blow.!!

[@MikesGunWorld]

and i think i actually have it figured out.......

[@gcg8821]

This is interesting vid. My Stoeger extractor came really sticky. My next job. Plan on leaving the safety as is, but might do something to the spring. Had a tight spring on my S&W 9mm, so locked the slide back for 3 weeks. I let time and spring tension by my gunsmith. Any thoughts? On the old side by side, did the gunsmith remove material on the face of the barrel or too much on the spring?

[@RequisiteFunction]

Before you do any work with it, address the extractor. The extractor needs to move freely, or it adds to the friction of opening and closing it. Once you've ascertained that your extractor is clean, free and not bent along its guiding rod, your next step is to reassemble it, and get a set of snap caps. Then, open and close your gun about 8 million times. Do it while you're watching a show or something. After doing this through an entire season of your favorite Netflix series, you might find the action is much smoother than you originally thought. Some of that is true. Some of that would be your body having built up a tolerance to the insane operating pressures. But most of it will be the gun having been broken in. Another thing is the wood fit is temperamental. This reveals itself in two locations: 1) the forend can come loose if the metal insert is not set properly in the routing, making it have difficulty getting a good purchase on the "click" of the barrel lug. If your forend comes loose, it is almost always because of this. That little metal section needs to be moved forward on the wood. You can see a rectangular slot in the metal insert, where it needs to engage. 2) the internal hammers can drag occasionally on the inside of the buttstock. People will change firing pins and springs all day before sending back to Stoeger, but it's usually the internal hammer dragfing against the wood, causing a light primer strike and an unfired shell. Solution is to take the butt stock off and chisel out a piece of wood. You will see exactly where it needs to be done, becyase there will be an imprint of the hammer on the wood surface. Both of these issues could be caused by the wood stocks not having been aclimated properly before they were fitted. They may have been perfecty fine at the factory. All that being said, these are great guns, if you're willing to throw in the elbow grease. I knew it going in, and everyone should knkw that there is going to be a possibility of a less than perfect machine. I was ok with it, cus I knew none of it was stuff I couldn't fix, and I didn't want to spend over $2k on something better. If yours works like a top off the bat, well...congratulations, cus that's great. These guns are used in Cowboy Action Shooting by hundreds of people. They are more than capable of the abuse, and worth the extra time u spend finishing what the factory should have finished.

[@BarnyDaddy]

Manny a did this whole process a few years ago and it is documented here on KZbin.

[@derikcooper5369]

Saw this problem fixed today on KZbin

[@99Racker]

Drill a hole under the pad and put the safety bar in there. You will always know where it is if you go to sell it. The other is a great parts piece.

[@99Racker]

Were the parts in the breech lock, is there indication it was "polished" on the first side by side? That could be a reason for the unlocking issue. Some smiths also open the chambers where the shell rims rest. How do rounds chamber? Do the insides need some light polishing?

[@MikesGunWorld]

rounds chamber easy and can easily be tossed out during competition. since another full cleaning and polishing, it remains closed with light loads. never an issue - haven't test with factory, but I only shoot at competition, so all good.....

[@notdeaded1416]

He cut too many loops off the top latch spring. You can use a Ruger hammer spring, cut to length to replace the spring, or go to Palo Verde Gunworks and buy a Stoeger top latch spring kit. Also coning the chambers is SOP for a comp gun. Nothing wrong with that. You’ll learn that you don’t shoot full load shells at a match. That gun just needs light loads and a new top spring and it’ll be good. Get to a match and check everyone’s Stoeger, you’ll see what your dad had is fine.

[@MikesGunWorld]

Appreciate the feedback. I did replace the spring with an original and the breech still blows open. Your other points are spot on. I would never shoot a factory load in competition hurts like hell after a while. Opening up the chambers is also spot on. I can barely get the spent casings out of the new gun. As always appreciate feedback.

[@notdeaded1416]

⁠@@MikesGunWorld interesting, something is way outta spec. For you new gun, look for a FlexHone 12 ga chamber hone and use it to polish up the chambers. That will help shucking the shells. Also I’ve found that SxS like Winchester AA, or Remington STS or Nitros. You need the smooth sides on the shells to shuck. Save the ribbed ones for the 1897. Someone probably used a brake hone on the chambers and overdid the chamber honing. The flexhone is gentler. If trying the cheaper shot shells, they have ribs that stick, and stick to low brass shells. It it could also be the latch or the lug on the barrel might be damaged or out of spec. If the latch, it could be replaced. The lug on the barrel is probably more work than the gun is worth to try to fix. Pioneer Gunworks now makes an improved Stoeger trigger spring. I’ve got two to add into my 12 and 410. For the safety, you might want to put the pieces back in so you get a manual safety, and on the top,latch spring guide rod, cut off a bit of length so it won’t push the safety back automatically. Most do this change rather than completely delete the safety. Also you’ll want to open up the latch action and the frame and polish every cast part. They look like they were cast using kitty litter for the foundry molds. It’ll take 800 grit emery and flitz to smooths the burrs down. You’ll find even the machining is rough too and needs polishing. Also using machinist blue will help you see where there’s interference and where a bit more polishing is needed.

[@MikesGunWorld]

@@notdeaded1416 The flex hone idea is a good one. I have used flex hone on other fire arms, the 1873 being one of them and they work great. Just placed an order for a 12 gauge flex hone. I did polish everything up, but didn't go as far as 800 grit. When looking at the job I did, there are obvious spots that still need work. I think the lug is ok, but we will see after this next round of polishing. Once complete, I will leave a note and let ya knowhow it goes. Thanks for feedback. Much appreciated.

[@michal.abramowicz]

I will stay with my miroku side by side!

[@KathrynLiz1]

I would posit that your action popping open will be an overly lightened top lever spring.. Try an un modified one and see if it stops. I would caution against making that top lever spring too light.... The honed chambers is a common mod to allow shells to be shaken out without shifting grip on the gun, and I doubt that they would cause the action issue.... If you use a sanding drum in the Dremel on the fore end metal where it engages the action and just take all the casting roughness off, the action will drop open very easily. That's where most of the friction is on a new Stoeger.

[@MikesGunWorld]

Hi - thanks for the feedback. The spring was lightened up. However, i reinstalled the original and it was still happening. I took the gun apart, cleaned and polished some surfaces. It no longer blows open with light cowboy action loads.

[@markconen2853]

How light is the top lever spring

[@MikesGunWorld]

It was too light I replaced with factory original. Still blows open.

[@markconen2853]

Try the sass wire forum stoeger sxs opens when fired they have a detailed description of causes and fixes for this common problem with the stoeger

[@MikesGunWorld]

@@markconen2853 thanks Mark. I will check it out.

[@jeffstanfield5070]

I am wondering if they cut to much off the spring that puts pressure on the lock works. On mine I did not cut my spring off I purchased a less pressure spring that is the same length. They are out there.

[@MikesGunWorld]

That's a good thought. A buddy of mine and I were talking through and came to the same conclusion. I am going to buy a new spring and test. Thanks for the feedback - good stuff.

[@dansu3586]

Nice video. But you keep saying "there is no safety on the gun" which will confuse some viewers. There is still safety there, but just no "automatic safetty". Cheers.

[@MikesGunWorld]

So, yes and no. I did completely remove the external or auto safety. there is still internal safety. it won't fire if you drop it. However, I always appreciate comments and feedback. If i am missing something, always willing to listen and learn! Thanks for checking in!

[@BarnyDaddy]

Now…Do yourself a favor and order some stainless steel firing pins. The original pins are junk!!!!!

[@MikesGunWorld]

One of the firing pins on the new Stoeger is slightly bent and sticks..... I order the tool yesterday and want to see if there is anything I can do before I order. But in the end I will probably order them.....