Stop Making This Paper-Tuning Mistake | Bergy Bowsmith | Archery Mistakes

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Paper tuning at 3 yards is a starting point, back up from there to get the real picture.

[@Hawkerdude67]

Great explanation. I've just started down this rabbit hole doing detailed bare shaft but have not done it at 15 yards. I will add that to the list. Makes a ton of sense. Thanks.

[@mikeellis1132]

Some great info man!

[@BergyBowsmith]

Glad it was helpful!

[@donaldvonlintig8445]

Being a precision machinist my whole life, has made tuning my bows, a lot easier for the last 47 years, and tuning thru paper, until everything is perfect, has been the most important factor, that can't be overlooked. Even "Back in the day" this meant, making sure that I "indexed" the grain of the wood, and glued the nocks on my cedar shafts, before fletching , so the grain of the wood was 90 degrees to the riser, for consist spine, from arrow, to arrow. This would make every arrow shoot a bullet hole thru paper, with a Recurve and wooden arrow.

[@timgruver5932]

I know there are so many that don’t understand the mechanics of having everything set through the center line to achieve what the bow was designed for. Sadly, they are ignorant or believe “ close enough “ will work. Who knows what that means for each archer? For years and years I’ve always done everything I could to setup center line. Now I use a laser to get this. No guessing or “ eyeballing?”. Then I work on the arrows. Like you said bare shaft shooting out a few yards can you a lot. Hope a lot of people will see your vid on this. 👍👍👀

[@DEX-un7tx]

You should start a KZbin channel

[@bbmas1930]

I've got a walk back tune question which relates somewhat to this content. My process has been that after paper tuning and bare shafting to 15m to get my POI's (bareshaft and fletched) matched, I normally then go onto broadhead tuning at 50m. This makes sense to me because my normal issue is a right tear. eg On my early Elite with binary 2 track cams/mods, a right tear through paper is pretty usual/stubborn, so invariably a left rest movement is needed as cams and cable rod are already to the right. When I bare shaft or broadhead tune, my POI, if its still left of fletched ,will require more left rest. That all makes sense because I'm chasing a nock right condition by moving the rest consistently in the same direction. BUT....... walk back tuning in the same scenario says that if I take my first shots at distance after doing a paper tune and my arrow lands left of bullseye, that I need to move the rest to the right! That will bring my arrow across yes (after re sighting at close range), but aren't I just doing the opposite thing that a tail right requires and exacerbating it! I really don't understand walk back tuning. It seems to be a compromise between sight position and rest position that doesn't give the best arrow flight. interested in your opinion on walk back tuning and rest movements. p.s iv'e subscribed

[@BergyBowsmith]

I never walk back tune . For this reason it's so un needed , same with French tuning and so on and so forth . Set bow to spec. Make sure it's timed. shim out tears. Reset rest back to center after shiming. Back up to 15 yards . Repeat process and micro tune with yokes or any drive method on axle . Go to 60 yards shoot a broadhead and fieldtip micro adjust rest 1-2 clicks max if needed

[@bbmas1930]

@@BergyBowsmith thanks mate. really appreciate it.

[@ericnewman971]

You are talking about down the center. Im assuming you are saying 13/16 with the rest. Then yoke tune. Set the rest at 14/16, and yoke-tune it. You are still back to center shot. You won't see a difference. There is a test for you.

[@peterp1143]

I have bare shaft perfect bullet hole at 3 yards but 2.5 inch high tear bare shaft at 15 yards. Do I raise my rest until I get perfect bullet hole at 15 yards and then start tuning from there?

[@BergyBowsmith]

Have you tried nock tuning ? Or no ?

[@peterp1143]

I nock tuned at the 3 yard shot as it was slight nock high. I didn't nock tune at the 15 yard shot.

[@BergyBowsmith]

@@peterp1143 2.5 inch nock high tear at 15 yards is likely only a few clicks on your rest id give that a go first and double check your timing.

[@waynestevenson9613]

So each and every arrow is bare shaft tuned (clocked I suppose) at 3 and 15 and once again to the fletched shaft?

[@BergyBowsmith]

Yes just do the fletched to double check due to super consistent spines it varies per manufacturer some arrows have very pronounced spines and you don't have to recheck with the fletched shafts , but some shafts have such consistent construction that you have to recheck them with fletchings to verify

[@waynestevenson9613]

@@BergyBowsmith ok thank you!

[@williambowfishing]

As to add to this. Nock tuning and clocking are two different spectrums. Clocking is a "industry phenomenon" that is unnecessary and has no proven accuracy efficiency. Nock tuning is just rotating the arrow an 1/8th-1/4 turn to micro tune the spine location where it wants to fly true.

[@arulbangkit1979]

salam olahraga,,, tetap semangat

[@bbmas1930]

Here’s the thing that confuses me though. 13/16ths is considered ‘down the centre’ yet after you shim/SET etc , 13/16ths rarely has the arrow parallel to the riser. Say you’ve shimmed right to correct a tail right condition, then your arrow ends up pointing out to the left. So you just leave the rest at the first 13/16ths that you set, and still call it down the centre after shimming or shifting cam lean to et good flight?

[@BergyBowsmith]

Center shot can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer if you set it at 13/16 and Shim to the right and recheck the arrow my experience has been that it will now be just ever so slightly shy of 13/16 making it point slightly to the left so yes I will then reset the rest back into spec before running it through the paper again . Minor cam adjustments will not change the center shot by much at all only major movements for shim adjustments will take it grossly out of center where you will see it . This can almost always he remedied by proper initial set up of the rest before initial paper tune , and checking cam lean first to tell roughly what the tear will be from the start . But that topic is not covered in this video

[@BergyBowsmith]

In short my opinion of down the center is down the center if it's running out one direction or the other it is not down the center.

[@bbmas1930]

@@BergyBowsmith Righto. Cool thanks for that. Most bow tuning vids I see haze over what happens to your rest position AS you cam tune. You're given the impression that its a manufacturers spec 13/16ths to 7/8th and then the string gets moved relative to that. I've always liked squaring a nocked arrow relative to a reference arrow held against the riser, almost ignoring an actual rest measurement. Good to hear you do it that way because thats more similar to how I've done it.

[@daltondavis7898]

Yeah 13/16 Is not anywhere close to center of a Hoyt VTM 31 no matter what way you shim it so should it be center or 13/16

[@BergyBowsmith]

@daltondavis7898 center is just shy of 13/16ths on a vtm , rx7,rx8 the new 3 track hoyts have about 1/16th of flex in their riser DM on Facebook I'll send you a pic of how new 3 track hoyts should look from the top .

[@jeffspencer7489]

You should never take the bow outside the center shot specification. The specs aren’t 13/16 +/- nothing. Most are +/- 1/8 but you should know your specific bows specs. There are tolerances in everything. Nothing is consistently nominal. That is why rests are adjustable. If you have to move your rest beyond recommended tolerances take the appropriate actions - shim, yoke tune, etc. Too much time is spent on achieving perfect center shot.

[@mikemace4435]

My bow shoots perfect bullet holes they say then I say okay let's see and they proceeded to move up to the paper 1 yd away I say where are you going you're way too close move back to 6 yards or so and sure enough rip there's a 3-inch tear even with their fletched arrows Then I say oh my

[@BergyBowsmith]

Love this

[@mikemace4435]

I've also witnessed archery shops helping a customer tune a cheap bow only to end up way out of center shot and having them eventually 1 yd from the paper and getting a somewhat decent bullet hole and have the customer agree yes that's not too bad...lo freaking l

[@donaldvonlintig8445]

@@mikemace4435 I've witnessed archery shops install Bowstrings that are 3" inches too long, and wonder why the poundage is off !! W.T.*

[@corymartin97]

That's what's awesome about the deadlock system. Use that when you're broadhead tuning, no moving the rest.

[@BergyBowsmith]

100% man

[@flyfin108]

im sorry i dont understand, do you mean that people start paper tuning before creep tuning or timing adjustment? or did you just make strawman argument for clickbait?

[@BergyBowsmith]

Your only confused if you want to be , it's pretty standard knowledge that you paper tune after putting the bow into spec and making sure it's properly timed . This is solely a video on the process I use for the paper tuning portion of my process. Thank you

[@flyfin108]

@@BergyBowsmith oh ok, dont put vanes on ur bares, u need em bares, the final step for your tune is to get bares and vanes to hit the same spot, gl

[@BergyBowsmith]

@@flyfin108 I do not put vanes on my bareshafts .

[@ashleywatt8514]

Paper tuning is a wast of time Bare shaft is the only way of a proper tune

[@BergyBowsmith]

Tell us you didn't watch the video without telling us .

[@ashleywatt8514]

@@BergyBowsmith I will watch again the power went out or to save time tell me you mentioned bare shaft tune

[@BergyBowsmith]

@@ashleywatt8514 only literally the ENTIRE VIDEO

[@ashleywatt8514]

@@BergyBowsmith now that you agree l not gunna watch the rest

[@BergyBowsmith]

@ashleywatt8514 this has to be the most delusional thing I've ever read. Lol you literally came on here to comment but didn't even watch the video . Your a special one .