Structall Steel SIPs Building Step By Step

[@Structall]

+Nina Ashton 1.5" furring with standard nail guards is FL code compliant. /// In many cases a beam can be used rather than a load-bearing, dividing wall. This feature would be engineered into the construction of the home. /// The fascia trim is the best choice for adding gutters. Our engineered connection detail exceeds industry standards. Contractors have been using them for years on a variety of projects with no failures.

[@sipspanelsaustralia6032]

Very nice instructional video

[@joeytorres8697]

holy shit.. video old as Frankenstein bt dam it was so educational.. thank you

[@jena543gerda5]

Have you ever used steel structual steel SIPs for a tiny house on a trailer with a loft?

[@Structall]

+jena543 gerda This is a project we are currently looking into. We have had several contractors contact us about building tiny homes and tiny homes on trailers.

[@samou8161]

How to run the wiring for the ceiling lights?

[@Structall]

+sam ou After the home is closed in, move inside and install the remaining walls and beams. Any soffits and ceiling drops are accomplished by simply screwing light gauge framing to the underside of the roof panel. Romex wiring can be run through 1-1/2" 25 gauge steel high-hat channel that is furred-out on the inside of the wall panels creating a raceway, or run through prepunched holes in interior stud walls. Plumbing, drywall and other finishing materials are installed in the same fashion as a typical home. Maximum hat section spacing of 24-inches, oriented vertically from the floor, with 1 ¾” clearance from the sub-floor. The hat sections should be fastened to the steel facers with #10 x 3/4” tek screws every 12” on center. The ½” gypsum board needs to be fastened to the hat channel with 1”, No. 6 Type S screws, spaced 12” on center in the field and 8” on center at the edges.

[@healthy60010]

any video for joist installation for second floor ? what kinds of joists are used (steel or wood

[@Structall]

Interior walls and floors are light gauge steel studs. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3iYgYKFaaqqg7Mm59s

[@DanielRichards644]

I'm still in early design phase and have yet to look into financing or the land yet but what would be a ball park figure for a 16 foot by 40 foot square house with a single 3/12 shed roof (sloping from one of the 40 foot long walls to the other 40 foot wall) with 2 foot overhangs starting at 10 feet tall wall on the long back wall using like 6" panels for the walls and whatever you would recommend for the roof, with the floor system already in place. Just trying to ball park how this would compare to conventional wood framing materials cost. It would definitely make things simple enough that I could do the labor myself. Also how wide a doorway can you do with these and how big an overhang can you do with a 10 pound snow load?

[@Structall]

+DanielRichards644 We have forwarded your request to our Senior Project Manager. If you would like to speak with him directly, please send us an email at [e-mail] with your contact information. Otherwise, we will message you with his response. Thank you.

[@Structall]

+DanielRichards644 Using 6" roof panels and 6" wall panels, the materials for the house would be approximately $14,000. That includes the panels + all extrusion, screws, and caulk. Addt'l costs to consider would include the ventilator and engineering drawings. Doorways can be any size, within reason. The details we have transfer the load to the foundation. We have details for up to 16'-18' garage door openings. Regarding the overhang, we do not recommend in excess of 2' overhang without a beam to attach to, due to the uplift factor involved in a wind event. The snow load is not the limiting factor. If you would like more information or an itemized quote, feel free to contact us at [e-mail].

[@danielbaranowski7601]

Is there any information available on the header requirements over garage doors? I've got a 10x10 rollup door currently installed in a 12' wall and would like to increase the height of the opening another foot. This would mean shortening the header section from the current 2' down to about 1''. I would replace it with either another rollup door or hang a sectional door from the ceiling. Would I need to reinforce that remaining header section with steel or something else?

[@Structall]

We have a connection detail that we'd like you to take a look at. Please, send an email to [e-mail] and we will forward the detail to you.

[@hagartyman]

It appears there is no caulking or sealing the panels in the channel to the concrete or when they are joined together. Can you please explain why?

[@Structall]

There is a 3/8" bead of caulk between the base channel and the slab. 2 beads if you are using the base channel with thermal break. There are weep holes drilled in the outer leg of the base channel for any trapped moisture to escape. There is a bead of sealant applied in the sealant reservoir. The snap-n-lock connection between each panel effectively seals the entire envelope. We have had moisture and air infiltration testing performed on the wall assembly with no evidence of water/air infiltration.

[@Structall]

Also from a previous response: While there appears to be a gap at the bottom of the panels, the steel skin is resting on the ledge provided on the extrusion. The lip provides a capillary break that is so that moisture from the slab or other wet surfaces are not in contact with the metal skin or the EPS foam. We also recommend 1/4" weep holes in the base channel every 4 feet. We do use caulk in the sealant reservoir as an additional air and water barrier. However, they are not the primary protection feature in our product. The panels have a very strong mechanical connection when they snap together, and are very difficult to separate without lifting the panel out of the track and rocking them in or out to unlock the panel. With the fasteners 6" O.C. on each side to the panels there is no opportunity for the panels to rock and unlock. Show less

[@hagartyman]

How do you prevent insect and or water intrusion if there are weep holes in the base channel?

[@Structall]

Even during a flood, there is no where for the water to go but out the weep hole. The EPS foam will not soak up the water and the G90 Galvanized steel skin will not corrode or delaminate due to exposure to water. There wouldn't be enough pressure to push the water past the panel and into the interior of the structure. There is a minimum 6" clearance around the outer perimeter wall to comply with the IRC building code, thus insect infestation can be observed as they enter the wall for nesting purposes, i.e. termite mud tubes on the surface of the foundation. Additional protection can be provided with insect resistant foam at a nominal charge as well.

[@BIGDADDY91989]

Where can you purchase this material and what climate is it common in? I'm in Georgia

[@Structall]

Brandon Russell Please contact us directly at [e-mail] with information about your project and we will connect you with the appropriate representative. Our Panels can be used in any climate. Structall Steel SIP Homes have been built all over the country as well as internationally. Florida, Louisiana, Texas, Canada, and Jamaica to name a few places off the top of my head.

[@BIGDADDY91989]

Thanks for your response and I will be in touch asap.

[@ahmedaoy]

good work

[@edwardmcclelland5519]

what is the R factor of these walls/roof?

[@Structall]

Here is a chart for R-Values for EPS foam. structall.com/industrialsips/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/R-Value-Chart.pdf What you really want to calculate is the U-Value when it comes to homes and other enclosed structures.

[@Fussinated]

Only four screws to hold the corner panel to keep plumb? Why not using strong shims along with the screws?

[@Structall]

+Fussinated The 4 screws are just part of the initial steps. Further on, the video shows the screws being installed interior and exterior approximately 6" on center. Shims tend to not be exact and cause interference when attaching the next panel. With corners plumb the adjoining panels rest fully on the ledge on the base track and, with the interlock action of the Snap-N-Lock panel, further inhibits any movement. Additional shear value is added as all corners on the interior have a flat strap X, from the track to the wall cap, and the wall cap to the plate. The initial two panels in both directions serving to increase the shear capacity as well.

[@2awesome292]

What about the gap on the bottom of the panel? Why aren't the panels glued to each other

[@Structall]

+2Awesome While there appears to be a gap at the bottom of the panels, the steel skin is resting on the ledge provided on the extrusion. The lip provides a capillary break that is so that moisture from the slab or other wet surfaces are not in contact with the metal skin or the EPS foam. We also recommend 1/4" weep holes in the base channel every 4 feet. We do use caulk in the sealant reservoir as an additional air and water barrier. However, they are not the primary protection feature in our product. The panels have a very strong mechanical connection when they snap together, and are very difficult to separate without lifting the panel out of the track and rocking them in or out to unlock the panel. With the fasteners 6" O.C. on each side to the panels there is no opportunity for the panels to rock and unlock.

[@2awesome292]

Structall Building Systems my concern was more for the thermal bridging then for the structural holes making it collapse.

[@Structall]

2Awesome We use Thermally Broken extrusions to prevent thermal bridging (the black stripe showing on the base channel, window/door C channel and wall wall caps).

[@Brian-vz7xe]

+2Awesome A foam structure! I thought it was a steel structure?

[@Structall]

It is actually a SIP (structural insulated panel) structure. EPS foam is sandwiched between two pieces of 26ga steel.

[@Ballistic_Turtle]

I know little about building a house currently, but plan on having one built sometime in the future. Would ICF exterior walls, and steel SIP interior walls be feasible? I understand it would require changes to the building of the foundation and that's fine. I am just curious if it's realistically doable and what things would have to be taken in to account. I really like ICF, but the amount of interior space lost seems too high unless you're building a mansion. Any help would be appreciated.

[@Structall]

One our biggest value enhancement with this system is in using our Steel Snap-N-Lock panel to close the envelope by providing continuous uncompressed insulation over the exterior wall as well acting as the structural roof system providing the vaulted ceiling and excellent conditioned attic or optional loft area. That being said, the Snap-N-Lock panel does serve as a superior interior wall for separating the garage and as demising walls between two units in multi-family units providing fire rated walls and greatly reducing sound and air pollution between the units. Interior walls are best served with light gauge metal framing for value and ease of construction.

[@sipspanelsaustralia6032]

Interesting over here we cover the panels with corrigated iron then capping on top

[@hughtub]

Very cool. How much more in general does this form of construction cost over standard?

[@Structall]

Steel SIP construction costs less, actually. After you factor in the materials, manpower, and time required to build an equivalent, energy-efficient home, using other methods, you will exceed the cost of a Steel SIP home.

[@balloney2175]

How strong is it? Will it stand 120 m/h hurricane?

[@Structall]

Snap-N-Lock Steel SIP structures are very strong. Basic engineering for our buildings are capable of withstanding winds up to 120 mph. We have engineering meant for homes built on the coast of Florida that can withstand 150+ mph winds. Our load-bearing wall panels are Florida product approved for High Velocity Hurricane Zones (HVHZ). Our testing reports show that the panels are impervious to water and air infiltration.

[@duncandixon6203]

"framing the radius" think you mean circumference, lol. it's a good system. I am planning to use SIPs for my tiny house. what do you think weighs less? wooden or steel? and which one would be cheaper? both are strong enough

[@Structall]

+Duncan Dixon Steel SIPs are lighter. A 6" Steel Snap-N-Lock panel is 2.23 lbs/sq.ft., whereas a 4-1/2" OSB SIP weighs 3.31 lbs/sq.ft. Panel vs Panel, the OSB SIP is cheaper. However, with OSB SIPs, you should consider the additional cost of manpower/machinery needed to work with and lift the panels, as well as the extra materials you will need to protect the OSB home from water and insects.

[@duncandixon6203]

Excellent. I know that here in nz, we can get wooden sips locally. I just hope we can get steel.

[@randylavine3003]

Interesting! Where are you located, what is the approx. per sq ft (wall area) for the panels. How is the cell phone reception inside the building, what is the "R" value of the wall and roof, and what else did I not ask? Thanks!

[@Structall]

+Randy Lavine We have distribution centers in San Antonio, TX, St. Gabriel, LA, Lakeland, FL, and our manufacturing and home office is located in Oldsmar, FL (Tampa/St. Pete area). Our panels are a net 48" W, so depending on the lengths, which can achieve in excess of 30' when necessary, you receive an actual net value equal to the stated dimensions i.e. 4X8=32sq. ft. and when installed, as the video shows, in 2 or 4 ft increments (proper planning allows for the other 2' of the 4' wide panel to be used on the opposite wall or roof section). As in your vehicle there is no appreciable loss of signal due to the steel skin on the panel. The two layers of 26 ga. steel equals about 0.10 mm. and the average sheet metal on a car is 0.60mm to 0.80mm. Our 4" wall panel and 6" roof panels assemblies, as illustrated in the video, meet the requirements for R20 Walls and R49 roof per the 2012 IRC. More information about codes R and U equivalent can be found here: publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_11_sec002.htm Notable features: Integral moisture/air barrier, allergy preventive construction, Indoor Air Quailty (IAQ), sustainability, green, MLS green value added listing, reduced skill labor requirements, extended work season, mold preventive construction, up to 150 MPH construction, reduce apartment turnover, fewer foreclosures, fortified building, HERS 60, flood resistant construction, factory direct warranty, solar ready, aging in place, low job site waste.

[@crustydownunder]

You don't even insure the anchor bolts are anywhere near perpendicular.

[@marywelch3291]

Fresh poured concrete is very sloppy & soft when placing anchor bolts. There are little plastic disc & post jigs available that you can tuck up next to the bolts to plumb them up, but they are a fiddly waste of time. After the concrete begins to harden to a modeling clay consistency, builders go to each bolt with a speed square or bullet/mini level and push them plumb; at that point, they won't sag out of plumb as the 'crete cures.

[@Structall]

Yes, they are much easier to fit the track over when they are near perpendicular and, frankly, with less thread above the concrete. However, as you see in the remainder of the video, even this can be corrected. We have a photo that shows a more appropriate installation of the anchor bolts on Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/structall/16521997785/

[@jonbishop1385]

at 11.42 the 2 meeting roof sections look poorly fitted or cut,looks a bad job

[@Structall]

+Jon Bishop Now and then, one roof panel might be a bit higher on the ridge, so even though the foam, as evidenced in the video, is actually tight together, the bottom of one panel is about 1/2" lower in elevation at this termination point. Of course, there is trim that will be applied once the fascia is installed. From experience, our contractors have found if you take some of the excess angle trim and place it angle side down on a block of wood with a little tapping with the hammer it will spread to the angle you are looking for and makes for a very strong joint and a finish that matches the fascia.