Subaru Rear Wiper Stuck (Parts Cannon vs. Russian Repairs)?

The 2006 Subaru Outback is back in the shop for the rear wiper motor replacement.
After the FAILURE ANALYSIS, the question arises:
From a shop owner's perspective,
WHAT IS BETTER FOR THE ECONOMY:
1) REPLACE the part:
-Customer: Spends MORE money.
-Shop: Makes LESS money.
-Parts store: Makes MORE money.
2) REPAIR the original part:
-Customer: Spends LESS money.
-Shop: Makes MORE money (labor).
-Parts store: Makes NO money.
You can guess which way I chose in this case :)
Comments are welcome!
Enjoy!
Ivan

[@jonroberts4422]

I've been following you for a while along with others on the tube that you associate with and note your interest and ability to actually diagnose & repair the issue without just shotgunning parts at it. You applied some "Yankee thrifty ingenuity", "farmer repairs", and if you will "Russian Repairs", though the Russians we have in my neck of the woods have a thicker accent and tend to hack or butcher a repair for the lack of tools and/or proper experience. I am a remanufactuer of auto parts in the Southeast and after 33 years I'm tiring from dealing with parts changers and chinese competition. You did the repair in a manner that I would have approached it though for the sake of mention, the pitting on the shaft could be addressed with a variety of materials offered today that would level and fill the low spots to maintain that "slip fit" though relative to time and tools. The housing is not surprisingly only aluminum and without a bronze bushing anymore. What I can tell you from inside knowledge and experience of remanufacturing is though that replacement unit from Cardone is believed to be reman it is actually a new chinese PoS in a reman box. This is classic Cardone tactics going on well over 15 years now. Other remanufacturers in the industry, many now defunct, did similar as a matter of first, availability of rebuildable cores, and secondly cost ratio versus a new copy if one were available. I have A LOT of background and knowledge of the chinese offerings over my 3+ decades in the reman industry and know that often the same parts come from the same factory but in a different box. That motor likely is no different than a Dorman PoS since they buy items boxed rather than make items. You know how private labeling works. China is the king of bootlegs and counterfeits. The clue you gave was the mounting bracket lacking the notches for the rubber insulator grommets. No surprise. The punch operation certainly could have cut the notches from the stamping and an extra $0.60 could have been spent to offer new grommets, but that is a chinese copy not a reman. The biggest issue is what you pointed out, the shaft suffers damage in your climate more than ours, and the cost to salvage it may not work. The aluminum housing in most cases would be wallowed out or even cracked from corrosion buildup as I have often seen from parts up North. Then you have to get a casting made or mill & re-bush the old housing, all while paying skilled labor and overhead to do so. The option? Save what you can and go to china and find a copy or get one made that's "close" enough to either make the sale or get a good core. In my part line Cardone didn't repair certain components as we did. They would buy all the good cores and just run through them until none were left. Then they would get a copy made in china and send it out in a reman marked box in order to hopefully get a good core back to balance things out. The installer was none the wiser and they assumed the part was a remanufactured original part. That might have worked had the chinese copy been a good copy but they never are. And then the s@#t storm hit where Cardone and the other large rebuilders burned themselves with junk parts made in china souring the old Cardone name and lumping the industry all together. We did our damnedest to let our customers know why we're better than the rest, but it didn't matter the damage was done. Remember Eric O. of SMA saying remanufactured parts or "junk". Oh and the chinese new parts, now called aftermarket to soften the fact they are made in a Communist country, well he says they suck too! What do you do then? Oh you use OEM parts from the dealer? They are on national backorder when they too have a run of poorly designed parts. Well the consumer and the installers got what they asked for...... cheap prices and parts quickly so they can turn more repair tickets in a day without concern for the collateral damage. They and china eat while the skilled American remanufacturers in this country will starve. I remember the past years at the trade show seeing the Cardone family walking the floors in there suits looking like the mob and we looked up to them to hopefully be them or get swallowed up by them and cash out, but look what has happened. The parts store chains and warehouse distributors went directly to china and that's all that's offered. Throw your original part away and get a "new" one that's the American way! Keep up the good work PHAD!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Jon, thank you for taking the time to write such a great informative comment! It's sad that sometimes even the OEM dealer parts look and feel like cheap knock offs. The only alternative left is the junkyard or Ebay!!

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Yes, Jon, thanks for the insight! I see you don't have any videos. Sounds like you might have a bit for checking content.

[@charlesmiller5078]

@canuckguy worried China builds whatever quality level the customer orders, American Companies are ordering lower quality parts, which cost less to have China to build. Dont blame China..They build a great I-Phone, because they are paid to do so. American Companies are trying to cash in on low build quality, even if 10 out of 100 fail, they are still in the money. Capitalism run amuck.

[@VigilanceTech]

@@charlesmiller5078 I have a friend who contracts to have his widgets built in China. What you say is true to an extent. For instance, he went over there, had them build some samples. He approved them, then when he got the actual production order it was all junk (which he still had to pay shipping and tariffs on even though all he could do is crush them -- oh and he had to also pay to do that and landfill them). So he went back and talked to the shift supervisor and made sure that they knew exactly how they were to be built and he watched the first run to make sure it was done right. So he goes home, and when he gets his next order, 2/3rds of them are junk! Why? Because they run THREE SHIFTS!!! So the one shift supervisor couldn't communicate to the other shift supervisors how the widgets were to be made. This Tomfuckery caused him to lose his distribution contract so he had to eat the whole thing. Generally dealing with China is a losing proposition. Now looking at what they're doing with all the lies about this virus. Nixon/Kissinger embraced the concept that if we just traded with our enemies we'd reform them over to capitalism and become friends. I think that's mostly a failed concept especially WRT China. It seems better to embargo the shit out of them until their people revolt and put in a better, more honest, government.

[@akhtarkh]

Jon, most of your analysis is right on, until you started talking about cheap Chinese parts. China has the ability to produce any quality very cost effectively as per customer's demands. The customers are mostly US corporations who get greedier and greedier. Do not blame China for making junk, they are asked to make it by the American customers. Cessna, Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Apple, walmart and many others get their units or parts made in China because the American executives wants to maximize their profits, and US govt. allows them, they do not care if the American factories are closing down due to their greed. On the other hand we should so give due credit to China for their ability to produce parts at current price and scale. The predator 13 hp harbour freigbt engine sold for $370 can be picked up from the same factory in China for $160 if you buy a skid and they will private label for you, those engines are reported to last equal or better than a similar Honda which retails for $600.

[@m1greg125]

Ivan, I was yelling through the computer, " THE SHAFT IS JUST RUSTED!" I had a similar issue with a 98 Honda CRV. Cleaned the rust, re-lubed, assembled and SUCCESS!

[@VigilanceTech]

when I was younger back in the 1970's I had a 55 buick. I also got a shop manual for it. What I was amazed is that it showed how to repair almost everything on the car with raw materials (gasket materials, copper wire, hoses, etc...). This is what has gone wrong with America (and most of the rest of the world) IMO. The factories have encouraged parts changing so that all the wealth trickles up to them at the top. Back earlier in the automotive industry they didn't have that mentality. They just wanted you to be able to fix your car and keep it running, probably because many people went to their mechanic for advise on what car to buy and he naturally would tell them the one that he could keep running the easiest and most reliably while making the lion's share of the profits for himself. I constantly do "Russian repairs" on my stuff. I recently had to do a starter on a Chrysler 2.7 (which is a total bear to remove). The reman part at the local store was $250 (which I didn't trust). So I went to the junk yard and got one there. Turns out it had been full of water (so was full of rust). I took what good parts I could from that (e.g. brushes) and what good parts I could from mine (e.g. rotor, brush holder) and combined them and put it back in. Took me a couple hours and probably cost me like $20. Now it works well and I feel I can trust it. I would NOT want to have to effectuate this repair out along side the highway somewhere (nor pay some remote garage I towed it to to do a sub-optimal repair using crap parts).

[@simonparkinson1053]

Always up to the customer. Many times a self repaired OE part is better than a reman part and pretty much always better than a cheap aftermarket part. I did a Russian repair on my rear wiper motor a few years ago, the contact fingers for the park cam had corroded due to leaking shaft seal. I soldered in some contacts from an octal-base relay! That lasted 3 years ~ 75,000 miles and late last year failed again so I Replaced it with OEM but not dealer. Oh, and please replace the capacitor in your bench grinder Ivan!

[@kittty2005]

Get rid of the need for a cap just convert to 220 single phase,many of these grinders are either/or 110,220,you just have to redo the input and run 220 to the outlet.

[@halleffect1]

that grinder starts up extra slow :D

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I worked that out many years ago. The only exception is when materials like plastic have changed.

[@VigilanceTech]

for a true Russian repair along this order, one time back in the 80's I had this friend who (against my advise) bought a Fiat sedan. The starter went out on it and there were quite literally NO parts available anywhere I could find (as Fiat had just shut down their electrical distribution to North America). I pulled the starter apart and found the brushes to be shot. Fortunately I had just rebuilt the starter in my girlfriend's Jeep and I recognized the brushes looked very similar so I went out and bought a new pair of those and ground them down on the grinding wheel to fit. Worked perfectly! (Little did my friend know what a solid I'd done her because she came to me first before shopping the fix around to other mechanics in the area, I'm sure none of which would have even elected to try)

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I had that problem on my junk hyundai. I could not even get the nut off or even move the wiper with it in. Mine was drawing about 4 amps. The next day after soaking with penatrating fluid I could help the wiper move like yours. So I moved on to Krone in a can. That got the wiper moving by itself and eventually able to wipe a dry screen. To finish off I filled the nut cover with grease. It is still working 4 years later.

[@sinegra30]

Saving money is part of economy stimulation, great repair as always!

[@rafflesnh]

Another cool and relaxed vid Ivan, thanks. Mr O. of South Main Auto keeps making me jump whenever he shouts "WHOOOOOOOAAAAH" when he drops/breaks somethin!! Not good for my blood pressure. ;-) All the best for you and your family and look forward to your next diagnostic challenge.

[@Drives31forhalo]

When you started putting in the new motor I was yelling in my head "no! its not the motor! its corrosion on the shaft!". I was glad to see you got it right, I've had to clean up the wiper motor shaft on our 06 ford explorer 2 times over 10 years of ownership. definitely beats the hell out of a new motor, I couldn't tell you how many people would just throw a new motor assembly on it when it only took 30 minutes of my time to fix. As a customer, I would absolutely be fine with you fixing the old part over buying new. better for me, better for the environment, and the original part is probably better than any aftermarket part anyways.

[@ronberry5316]

HEY, that wasn't a true Russian repair, the o ring was a part. I feel cheated. 🤣 Lol. Great job as always Ivan.

[@RJ-vb7gh]

Yup... My dad was born in Estonia in 1918, he was attending Engineering University in Germany when WWII broke out... He survived the war fixing cars and bicycles, mostly without spare parts and learned to weld professionally as well as eventually getting his master toolmakers certification. To make things even more fun, he supervised a machine shop with a tool and die shop aside when I was learning to fix cars. By now, you might be catching the drift, who needs to buy car parts if you can rebuild them. And with his skills and access to a commercial machine shop, we didn't buy a lot of parts. Watching you fix the wiper reminded me very much of how I learned to do it, except I would have just started out looking for the seized shaft first. When the bushings wear out you don't have much electrical draw, if any and when the windings short the motor smells burnt. So always smell a motor before tearing it apart, it will save you time. As to Russian repairs... My dad worked with a lot of old Russian mechanics during WWII and when we once got stuck by a rusted and seized nut and bolt... he told me we had to "Russian Wrench" the bolt out. He came out of his shop with a hand sledge hammer and a cold chisel. A few taps later the stuck fastener was no more and the metal surfaces it held together were still perfect. He told me the procedure was developed by master Russian mechanics over years because of actual tool shortages... he even used the hammer and chisel method to loosen rounded off bolts... I know that many modern mechanics might consider these methods barbarian.. but watching someone who could operate a hammer and chisel with such precision was actually impressive.... Knowing the technique, I still use "Russian Wrenching" as a last resort... but I've always wondered if it's still taught or used by Russian mechanics, or if it's a lost art.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Nice! I visited my cousin a few years ago. He lives in a Siberian village but drives an old Mercedes. I watched him change out control arm bushings on his wife's old Honda wagon in a matter of minutes with two sledge hammers and a board. No damage to the parts whatsoever. Who needs a press or bushing removal kit?!? :)

[@RJ-vb7gh]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Never underestimate Russian ingenuity!

[@andyeckel7195]

Fantastic work. As long as you return the part in its original packaging, I applaud this approach. The parts store will survive.

[@sparkyobrian6417]

the black discoloration comes from the degradation of the neoprene vibration isolators, although it could be some other formulation of synthetic rubber this effect is common.

[@mkilptrick]

As always I like listening to your thought process. Whether it is right or wrong.

[@ColtaineCrows]

We do work for professional customers, so if a part isn't working we replace it if we have it in stock, if not we try a bodge to make due until the part arrives at the shop.

[@danp9551]

Yes, I imagine there are completely different constraints and priorities in an industrial environment. Downtime is expensive and replacing parts is quicker than repairing. Also, because of liability considerations you want to stick to new and OEM parts. If something goes wrong you can at least argue that you did everything by the book and according to manufacturer specifications.

[@chiluco2000]

@@danp9551 That makes sense, I remember watching on the news a passenger airplane temporarily fixed with some fancy duct tape while they had more time and parts available to complete the repair. It was approved by the manufacturer but didn't stop passengers from taking pictures of the wing all patched up lol

[@jeffjankiewicz5100]

I would try to rebuild it, I did that with alternators, starters. years ago. Been wrenching on my own junk for 46yrs. I love it when the parts cannon is not used. Poor man`s repairs here...lol Great job Ivan...you make some, customer saves some.....win win. Stay safe.

[@weldingjunkie]

I’m with you Ivan I’d rather make more than give it to part store and if I can reman it better then it just makes sense. I give both options to customer and they usually go with what I reccomend. Nice video, thanks for sharing

[@jstutz101]

I want to see the Russian repair on the plastic cap that exploded when you popped it off... 😂

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It didn't explode luckily 😬👍

[@paulsmith9341]

Make one out of black rtv!

[@throttlebottle5906]

it went flying with a pop as a bunch of corrosion junk fell, I thought it broke at first also, but slowed and paused video lol

[@russdavis1960]

Ivan, first off, I like your videos and repairs and I'm subscribed to your channel. i think you do a great job on diag and repair and I usually learn something along the way. That being said, you asked for thoughts. I'm possibly gonna get flamed but, here they are.... 1) Your neighbor needs to start using the rear defrost BEFORE turning on the wiper. Yes the wiper shaft was binding up with rust BUT, the owner sure as heck wasn't doing the motor any favors by NOT clearing the glass of snow. 2) IF you were to attempt to return the new/rebuilt motor to the auto parts store I work at, you would be told "You own it". ESPECIALLY if there was evidence that it was installed. We are NOT in the business of 'triagnostic' supplies, ESPECIALLY on electrical components. I had a customer try to return a battery AFTER I told him to bring his old one in so we could test it for him. (car had been sitting for a few months and he had to jump start it). Nope, he wanted to take a new one 'just in case'. I then told him, BEFORE he paid for it, "He owned it, whether he needed it or not". He said he was pretty sure it was the battery. So I sold it to him. A couple of weeks later he tried to return it. I told him nope, and reminded him of what I said before. A co-worker heard the conversation at time of purchase and backed me up on the whole deal. NOT saying your supplier won't take it back, but you wouldn't get a refund at the store I work at.

[@jamesdean5087]

I always try to repair the part if at all possible and if I have ample time. This brings me more satisfaction than the parts cannon. I'm waiting to come across a failed ECU with a bad MOSFET driver so I can replace the failed component. Always like the Russian repairs......

[@jovenlagda1229]

Good caption, you’re doing your part for this time of epidemic.

[@elpuerco6059]

As a customer, I’d insist on new on something that corroded. But, it’s always better for money in the consumer’s hands than on top of the pile of cash many corporations already have. Call me a Keynesian.

[@ventura455]

Excellent video. Was on edge waiting for you to say .... "There's your problem lady!!"

[@mbasiletti]

You're up early! Thanks Ivan for all your vids and the great attitude!

[@nickmayo2974]

Given that you found mechanical resistance to be the cause, I sure would trust the factory motor to outlast the aftermarket reman. I've had a lot of comebacks from aftermarket reman stuff. And just because it's guaranteed for life doesn't mean it's not a guaranteed piece of crap! Fixing what you have is often the best choice. For example: I reseal power Honda steering pumps all the time. An hour of labor plus $20 in o-rings beats the cost of a reman every time.

[@siucbset]

CustomerService: When deciding to repair old part or install new part. It is absolutely best to discuss the situation with the customer and let them make the decision.

[@thirdcargarage2951]

Repairing the OEM parts is always the way to go. Besides. no parts required is your thing. I would expect nothing less. Good job.

[@andymann9861]

Definitely rebuild where possible! Great job, Ivan!

[@raymondpauze8801]

Same situation happens with most Jap front wiper transmissions, I take em apart put a very small groove in the shaft to hold lube and lasts till customer dumps the vehicle.

[@brjr2009]

Be sure to use your "safety squint" when using those wire wheels.

[@kc360awareness]

I was thinking the same thing. Had far too many little curly wires stuck in my shirt after use to know they come flying out at extreme speeds!

[@11begood31]

I agree with you Ivan, the owners shouldn't stress the motors they should always knock and scrape the ice off to prolong the service life of the wiper, that didn't have anything to do with the rust problem but still fit in the cata gory. Thanks Ivan always interesting

[@hightttech]

Ivan, you would have loved the 80's and earlier; everything rebuildable. We did bushings, seals, bearings, gaskets, hard parts, etc. in ALL KINDS OF STUFF. We had tranny vises in our bays, and could have a refresher kit from RPM Merit out the door by lunchtime. I hate that today so much is sealed up and disposable, or price of rebuilds so cheap that shops cannot justify selling in-house overhaul at flat rate, instead opting for R&R only.

[@on-site4094]

Great repair job it’ll probably work longer than the rebuild one I all-ways repair instead of replace when I can👍

[@gonzgarr1592]

I would leave it up to the customer just in case the old part goes bad soon it will not come back to me and bite me in the ass

[@golfmaniac]

100% right, its not if, but when. Let them make the decision.

[@syldron1]

oh no, where is the bonus footage with wiper motor scope capture after diy repair.;-)

[@Tallguy203]

Similar situation for me on my Saturn SL2. Wiper pivots seized. Thought the motor was bad. I disassembled the wiper pivots that were rusty. Cleaned them up. I lubed them with anti seize and reassembled them. Worked like a charm.

[@jdtractorman7445]

I used to work for a dealer that sold a station wagon model, I could change rear wiper motors in my sleep on those.

[@adkancapadventures7738]

The parts cannon is not good for the economy. That would be “The broken window fallacy”.

[@throttlebottle5906]

obama fired the parts canon long ago ;)

[@j8656]

Enjoyed watching you take the old shaft out of housing. I like to see how things are put together!

[@williegillie5712]

Nice job Ivan. I guess I would have preferred a new part vs. old part. Looking at what they gave you for a new part I think you did the right thing. A buddy of mine got a remanufactured starter for his Honda ATV and it only lasted about a month. I tore it apart and couldn’t believe what I found. All the magnets that are attached in the case came loose and were just laying inside the case. (Were they glued in or what?!) I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. We ended up putting new brushes in the old starter and sanding the armature to make a clean contact surface. Slapped the old one back together and it’s been working fine for the last 2 years. Unbelievable some of the junk parts they are selling now days.

[@Garth2011]

Good fix Ivan. Problem was, that larger exterior rubber seal around the shaft just below the wiper arm allow moisture to seep inside then, it harbored the moisture between it and the second seal that was attached to the motor housing. So, moisture between those two seals AKA steam once the sun hits the window etc. and over the many cycles of that moisture and likely a tad bit of pressure, the water was being pushed into the stem and motor housing sleeve/busing etc. Not only that, two dissimilar metals used so more oxidation happened likely as not enough of and proper grease. I had a similar problem with the "park" feature on a GM wiper motor and figured out the plastic housing cover had lost much of its strength and the plastic "clips" of press in type bosses on that part allowed too much gap from the "cam" and gear assembly which then allowed the park ramp on the nylon gear to be bypassed. So, when turning off the wipers from the wiper switch stopped the wipers in the position they were in vs. allowing the motor to continue until the wipers were in the park position, then stop. Bought a Cardone, only brand available, wiper motor assembly and used the one single part needed vs. spend 4 hours dealing with the wiper transmission assembly to replace the motor. Works perfect now plus, I have a new spare motor if I need it. did all this before the quarantine so keeping the part was easy.

[@kellyspeppers]

OMG Ivan, OSHA will be at your door tomorrow, no shield on the wire wheel. Happened to me at my first work place after getting out of the Air Force. Not just the regular OEM shield but needed a complete cover on the end, said the inspector.

[@Charles_Mulberry_7977]

Hey Ivan, I hope you are staying healthy. The economy will take a while to recover, unfortunately. Take care, my friend!

[@mywindow9929]

As a customer I would appreciate your work over shiny new Chinesium any day of the week. I think most mechanics though would just swap the part and call it a day and would never to the testing you do. Thanks for making this world a better place by rinsing, recycling, reusing, encouraging and teaching others to think outside the box while being the change you want to see.

[@leifsimmons2464]

I fixed a rear wiper motor with a similar issue and basically in the same way. This was about 4 years ago. Afaik it is still working. If you should do it or not depends; if you a DIY:er then go for it if you have the time to spare. If you are a professional mechanic, then you should consider what is best for the customer and consult with your customer.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

I've cleaned a few output wiper motor shafts and enabled the motor.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

What about cost of labor to fix rusted shaft verses cost of the remaned motor? I cleaned rear brake calipers, got them working, and they weren't happy about it because of the cost difference of the remaned calipers. (I don't remember the cost difference.) You just answered this question.

[@onepeanutwhistle5232]

The assembly P/N is now Subaru 86510AG15B. The Cardone Reman® 43-4532 is offered at $49.18 at . At that price point the new commutator segments/insulation, carbon brushes, bearings and lubrication may permit another 14 years of service. Great failure analysis Ivan. With the customer's permission, I would have used the Cardone and spent the extra time with family or on to the next job. Stay safe!!!

[@Ottonic6]

Reflowed/soldered my main relay. Saved money and kept the OEM part installed. Yes! By all means rebuild/repair if you can...

[@bostedtap8399]

Love squiggly lines 👍. Great demonstration of motor failure. Stay safe all and thanks for sharing.

[@robertoruiz7069]

Hi Ivan ,in this case i think you should have left the reman in place,and gave him the old fixed one as a spare.The shaft with pits is going to have less surface area.lubrication works on surface contact between two usually dissimilar surfaces and grease,oil,or air as the medium that keep the two surfaces from welding or corroding into one.I'm surprised they designed that without a bronze bushing in the alum housing,that's how it's usually done.bronze or oil-lite bushings self lube.Still i enjoyed your disassembly to see the guts and how it failed .thanks

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Congratulations on 75,000+ subs!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thank you for your support!

[@johnswilley6764]

The rebuild of the wiper motor would have been my first option, I just like fixing things; with a 3/4 ton CNC mill and two lathes, plus other tools, including labscope, I'm set. Now also I wonder how long it will be before we have footage of the rebuild of your shop; after the wood burning stove, which is in close proximity to numerous sources of fuel - from a retired Fire/Medic. Best wishes, and stay healthy!

[@mechniack]

Ivan you have what most Americans do not have today ! Common sense 👍💟

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

LOL back in the Soviet days it was really tough to survive without common sense. That is why I respect my parents and grandparents so much.

[@johnplump3760]

Ivan! Yes, You did the right thing. John

[@thomasbailey8306]

Absolutely In that case You did with wiper. Ive done a few times. And they worked for years. So It all depends on how long it was ran like that. And heated that motor up. But you did A test on the windings so It should be Good for years. Great saving..and video. Im a new subscriber. Your close to my old home town..Which is cool...

[@serge4856]

Great job as always Ivan.

[@bwest-yq3uc]

I would rather you replace it, if it was my vehicle. The owner will most likely be back in a year or so because the motor burned out. Enjoy your video. I like that you rebuild a part since many shop are just parts replacement places like the dealerships. I have gone down that road only to replace it later.. All depends upon what part you are rebuilding.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Based on the abuse that the original motor went through unscathed, I am very confident that it will outlast the car and any aftermarket parts 🙂

[@steveorshon]

Be interested to see what the scanner says about the fixed part. If the voltage/current/ground numbers all come in good stay with the repaired oem. Sometimes after an extended period of malfunction the motor gets semi-toasted and may have reduced further life.

[@gmwrenchead]

I don't mind doing a repair verses a replacement, when it makes sense. I do like your videos and your interest in truly root causing failures. With this particular repair, and because you asked for feedback, I didn't agree with the ultimate decision to repair, simply because how you got there. First, you returned an electrical part after it was installed, which no part supplier allows, as far as I know. Second, and to me more important, you used the new part (reman to be particular) to help you diagnose the root cause, then returned it. That's just my opinion, but you asked. Keep up the great videos.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Agreed Ron, this definitely wasn't my standard procedure. Just wanted to have the new part on hand so repair would go quickly. Definitely learned that there is more than meets the eye when it comes to sluggish electrical motors 🙂

[@fieldsofomagh]

Oem part always better option. Marine grease excellent choice. Motor commutators look very healthy and ready to go. $150 with labour is a hefty unnecessary bill when the original device can be refurbished like new. Job well done.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thank you Tom! I am glad to hear that you approve of the Marine grease 😁👌

[@johnsnow-yh3bd]

eric o actually mentioned this a few years ago that it was usually the shaft seized in the housing.

[@liviu2004]

See that corn in the trunk? That might be life saving.

[@chrisgreenwood271]

Had this happen on an old Peugeot years ago, removed the shaft cleaned / greased it up all good, easy fix.

[@jamesbruno5896]

Awesome repair Ivan!

[@deweydodo6691]

Its the tale of 2 dis similar metals being in contact . The end result is corrosion and rust . Should be a bushing or bearing in that housing

[@ChicagoDoItYourself]

And years of road salt spray .... I actually have to remove my wiper blade every year and free it up so much salt collects in there. ..no grease oil wax anything I have found yet stops it... hello Chicago expressways and salt !!

[@fredflintstone8048]

Depends on the nature of the wear on the component. The wiper assembly is a good candidate for repair IMO. Some parts the wear is such that it will fail again. Like you I've taken apart a number of assemblies and found issues that could be repaired, and even in some cases improved from the original manufacturing, like in some cases using a good lube, protecting parts from weather intrusion, etc.

[@randy1ization]

usually what causes failure on a tesla style electric motor is the bushings that hold the stator centered wear, and the stator is no longer centered inside the magnetic field.

[@raymondjones7489]

Good job Ivan!!👍😁😎

[@vernhood4568]

I wouldn't have had a problem with your repair if you wouldn't have installed the remanufactured part first. As Technicians we need to hold ourselves to a higher standard. Returning parts that were installed, when it worked properly, I consider unethical. I do appreciate your thorough analysis on your repair strategies. Thanks for the videos! Have a great day.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Agree on returning parts. This was definitely a rare case for me since I usually only buy parts as a last resort haha

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Oh and the bracket didn't have bushings so I told them that it didn't meet my quality standards haha

[@stevensapyak7971]

3.28.20. Ivan if the Armature had shorted windings, you would’ve most likely been blowing fuses in that circuit......... The resistance check for shorted windings is not gonna show up with a regular multi meter. I like your investigative mind, not just satisfied with the repair but finding out what the root cause was. That is what distinguishes a true dedicated technician from a parts changer. 🚗

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thank you for the kind words Steven! I think that the body unit was smart enough to limit the current to 5amps and save the motor and the fuses. There's a reason why that feed voltage was down to 10 Volts!

[@ronsketchley6669]

would have drawn more amps than the reman one too if the windings were shorted. it drew the same so its good

[@johnaclark1]

That factory part will outlast the Cardone reman all day long. Rebuild, rebuild, rebuild!

[@dazasmit2048]

Ivan has been snacking on corn.

[@tompeterson3210]

I like the Russian repair. Rebuilt by Ivan( the perfectionist) will be better than Cardone! And your charges to the customer will stay in the local economy.👍

[@madnadn]

What you could have done instead of checking the resistance is to use the bench power supply to apply a few amps and see the difference in how much the voltage drops. This has more precision than using your ohmeter.

[@OzFrog48Z]

Cardone rebuild procedure. 1 find used part 2 see if it works (once) 3 paint it ( don't even remove the dirt ) 4 put it in a box and call it rebuilt.

[@OzFrog48Z]

Sorry I forgot a step. Cut the OE plug off of the end of the wires and throw two crimp connectors in box

[@grabovg]

Badass repair again. I love all of your no parts needed repairs

[@Jpilgrim30]

Down in Northwest Louisiana and we’re still pretty busy.

[@greg778123]

Classic name for a video 😂 Happy New Year

[@brucepeebles2084]

As soon as you showed the measurements, it was OBVIOUS the mechanical load on the motor was too high. I have encountered the VERY SAME problem on a Subaru and ended up pulling that shaft and lubing it. Come to think of it, I had to lube a front wiper shaft on an old VW too.

[@roxanneabbott8424]

I love your Russian repairs!!! Tearing things apart!!!

[@dwight.bennett]

@24:24 ... have to stimulate my own economy ... EXACTLY~!

[@ronaldbirchall3089]

back in the day, I used to use a GROWLER to test armatures.

[@Micko350]

Can't believe they don't have a compression seal on that Glass! No rubber washers & nut/washer🤔

[@JD-526]

If the car will not outlast the new part and the old part can be rebuilt. just rebuild the old part, send the new part back because there are other mechanics that will replace parts. the part retailers will still make money. you still make money on return business because you saved the customer money with rebuilding or reconditioning the old part, still win win for everyone.

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Nice to see you're moving to Milwaukee and dumping that DeWalt crap.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I do love the light weight and brushless design!

[@tonysova4687]

That repair goes back to the best mechanic I know A Farmer he could fix just about anything including his John Deere eeeeeeeeee fleet

[@joeb4405]

I would leave it up to the customer to decide what route to take.

[@mrb1864]

On a non critical part like this a component repair can be good route. More so if replacement part going be garbage parts and the faulty part is original OEM . Many people spending hundreds if not thousands to bolt on worse parts yet think it great as new :-/ Hard justify component repairs in terms of time cost and comeback/warranty in the big picture unfortunately .

[@chiluco2000]

I was expecting the strip of sand paper taped to the end of the drill to clean out the aluminum cover/hole. You know, SMA style!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Noooo too much grit and would take away too much soft metal! WD 40 and grease FTW!

[@jkbrown5496]

Bastiat's "Broken Window" fallacy. Economists still argue over it. Now the owner can spend the savings on something else, which might be something that is actually new in his economy rather than just maintaining that which already exists.

[@MrKinyodude]

Either way, you are helping economy. Using the reman parts, you contributed to the reman company business. Fixing the assy, you contributed to the owner to save money which he will spend on other stuff. Your fix is as good as new. That shaft will last a long time. I'll do the same fix if I were in your shoes.

[@MrRShoaf]

Did you hear me screaming all the way from California? Evidently you did. Great job!

[@n9wox]

18:02 Be carefull. Don't stab yourself.

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

Common problem on ALL "through the glass" rear wiper. If you own a vehicle withe a rear wiper, every year or two, pull the arm off and spray around the shaft with Fluid Film.

[@iamblaineful]

I would have put the new motor in and called it a day. Corrosion is a serious troublemaker once it gets started, both on the aluminum housing and the steel shaft and will likely result in a comeback given your climate. Water gets into those housings because it freezes and pushes them open. In my climate, we rarely freeze or get snow so that repair would have lasted by fixing it as you did. Just my thoughts.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

For sure. It will be a good test for the Marine grease!

[@AP9311]

Ivan, i had some reservations, on replacing it or repair, as most of my clients just want replace, not repair. But having watched it, i understand why, saving money, not putting knock offs in the car. That makes sense! Now i will try convince my clients if i come across to, try repair it to save money. Thanks for the video, it sure showed me a lot of things! Great video!! Thumbs up!!

[@charlesmiller5078]

I believe the problem would be, Customer: did you repair it, no but I tried, and the labor for trying is 1 hour 125 bucks, and of course the labor to install the new one, and the parts cost. sorry I tried, now pay me, time is money, but,but, no buts buddy pay up.

[@tinkerwest]

@9:00 another method is to introduce the re-manufactured bracket holes to a disk cutter and notch slots in them to slide mounting bushings on if that's they way they were installed on original bracket. Another great NPR repair, aftermarket parts are mostly total crap nowadays.

[@NoWr2Run]

Ivan, You did an ok job fixing that rear wiper, " THE RUSSIAN WAY ".. If it was me I would have " BROKEN THE FREAKIN REAR HATCH WINDOW " then got " PISSED & KICKED THE HATCH, PUTTING A DENT IN IT ". I would then go to the local U-PULL IT & would find a replacement hatch ( IN A DIFFERENT COLOR OF COURSE ). I would then find out the wiper motor DIDN'T WORK ON THAT ONE EITHER ? THEN, WELL YOU GET IT IVAN. GREAT FIX IVAN FINDING OUT WHAT THE REAL PROBLEM WAS AS YOU ALWAYS ALWAYS DO. STAY SAFE YOU & YOUR FAMILY SIR.

[@opl500]

In any case, I'd get used to the idea of fixing things with only what you have on hand and not with what might or might not arrive via some sketchy supply chain. Russian Way may become Only Way pretty soon.

[@tecnaman9097]

If the auto manufacturers wake up one day and decide it's time to take an honest reality check of their pricing policies they might just realize that it's better to charge less for genuine parts (and still make a handsome profit) than to continue to charge shops extortionate mafia like prices for parts that are mostly manufactured in cheap labor rate countries. In my opinion these corporate Gordon Gekkos seeking maximum return for shareholders (and themselves by way of bonuses) are cutting off their collective noses to spite their collective faces. The cheap knockoff copies we all know don't last as long as OEM even though the OEM is probably from the same country of origin, just a different factory where production tooling, labor skills and quality are to OEM requirements. Surely it's better from a business point of view to sell more product at less profit margin if at the end of the day you end up in front. And the spin off would be happier customers of the brand if they could afford to repair their vehicles with genuine parts and happier shops because of less comebacks. Yer I known, dream on!

[@carmo9693]

Sometimes if you can see the manufacture brand you can get right from a supplier that carries that brand, aka Bosch ND, NGK, not all are this easily found as they are unstamped.