Supercharged 50cc Throwing Parts!

[@quentinclark5579]

G'day I noticed in the last video that your power consumption to drive the Roots type blower was quite high. Roots blowers are far less efficient than screw type compressors and produce pulsating air flow. This is not a problem with industrial use where the only requirement is low pressure air with often long manifolds and receiver tanks, but with your small motor, even given its high performance, a more efficient supercharger will need less power to drive it for the same air output. The smoother flow of discharge air may well help with fuel mixing too. Roots blowers have a history in drag cars only due to their cheap cost at the end of WWII (coming off Detroit 2 Stroke Diesels),and their simplicity. Screw type Compressors did not come into production till later when machine tools capable of producing the more complex rotor shapes became available. Nowadays, screw compressors are available in much smaller sizes, and even if slightly oversized for your capacity which is more than likely, could be under-driven, i.e. slower than crank speed, as it is only about producing the required air volume that counts. Their non-pulsating nature is also easier on a small engine as the load is more constant, i.e. less load-on-load off-load on-load off. One brand that I am familiar with is the "Sprintex", but I am certain there are others. They will be more expensive than Roots type superchargers, I imagine, but better for your needs long term. Thanks for your openness and explanations, great stuff.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

😁 Google "Rotrex"

[@MV-ri7zu]

19:28 😁

[@casemodder89]

@@MV-ri7zu just a single frame of spoilage 😀

[@Skaadi89]

I almost wonder if you could get the timing right to where the pulse coming out of the blower lines up with right before the transfers close

[@quentinclark5579]

@@2STROKESTUFFING That should do the trick

[@bigturbo9515]

Crazy how far you’ve come, i remember learning about cvt basics in a scooter , porting, carb tuning and many more back in 2017 lol

[@joshuaharrison9331]

lol same

[@KalLanPIDT]

Paused at 11:50, idk if you solved it but a burst plate would be a better solution than a wastegate. it will remain 100% air tight untill a backfire occurs. A thin aluminium sheet would do the trick, scratch an X in to it though so it blows open in a controlled manner and doesnt fragment and throw shards around the room.

[@BeezyKing99]

I do give you credit for that, he hasn't even considered a blow-out disc... but was headed the right way.

[@hydrochloricity]

Having messed with a fair number of the Eaton Mxx supercharger units, I've never seen one with keyed rotor shafts. I think because the rotors are locked in place during assembly, the gear has to rotate ever so slightly as it's pressed onto the rotor shaft (because they''re helical), so keying would be impossible. Plus the tolerances on the parts would have to be tighter, since the keys would have to be in the exact right spot for correct rotor timing- by locking the rotors in place and allowing the gear to press on, it simplifies the construction. That said, the ones I've taken apart do have some grooves machined into the rotor shaft where the gears are pressed on for a better friction interface. But they're also substantially larger units than this one!

[@BlackCatRedScarf]

Even on the smaller Eaton M24 that I use on 1 liter engines here, they seems to be press fit just like that blower there... Which I assume it is an AMR 300 which is pretty close to the displacement of the M24. Another curiosity of the M24 is the gears... They are much narrower and flat! Yeah. There is not helical gears on these Eaton M24. I guess that's to keep them compact and simple.

[@hydrochloricity]

@@BlackCatRedScarf Yeah, I couldn't quite recall if the M62 I spent so much time with had helical gears. I think they were, but I could be mis-remembering that. It was also a gen 3 unit, not an MP62, so that could have changed. The M90s are definitely not helical, but those are much older designs.

[@guerrillaradio9953]

I've only had the m90, and you're right, just straight cut gears. It's easy to realign the rotors with a few pieces of shim stock and a press. You could calculate the helix angle etc with this one, but it sounds like a nightmare without a fair amount of machine shop equipment.

[@stevo43068]

Probably never build an engine myself, but I find this very interesting. And entertaining, your delivery is great. 😁☮️

[@ddager89]

I absolutely love your channel, I literally stop what I’m doing and find an excuse to get on and watch when I see you upload a new video. Keep up the good work brother.

[@jameshuffield1755]

bro just wow... I'm into motorized bikes and I have learned so much from you. thanks for taking the time to do all this. it's nuts! love it.

[@LitchKB]

Tha destructive interference is easily solved by advancing the compressor crank 90 degrees as it sits now. Or test it 60 degrees, 6 times - to give an informed estimate which sector that interference peaks are at - you should see two peaks and two troughs - all 90 degrees apart, given there are 2 compressor lobes.

[@Touwtje]

Yes! I would like to put in one guess at a centrifugal supercharger. Have fun on the roadtrip!

[@ameliorant1]

The high RPM would work well with a centrifugal supercharger

[@Dymitr_Nawrocki]

Nice to see it running again, also thanks to your last video i got an idea to lower exhaust manifold pressure in my turbocharged cb400, mostly making manifold better flowing and using boost regulator with softer wastegate acutator spring and as it turns out it definetly makes more power, also afr went very lean because before it had to choke itself with exhaust gases so even with very little fuel there was good afr because there was also very little oxygen now i had go from 110 main jets to 125 to get same afr as before. If not your video i don't know how long it would take me to figure it out.

[@Dymitr_Nawrocki]

Ps: that rotrex supercharger solution might be good idea since centrifugal superchargers are more efficent, through there might be a problem with non linear characteristic between boost and rpm.

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

@@Dymitr_Nawrocki I could see inertia becoming a little bit of an issue with a centrifugal type, as they are typically spun far faster than the cranks on a motor, unless he used something as low mass as the compressor off of a normal vacuum cleaner [you can purchase them in many sizes and displacements without the need of buying any other parts] or a leaf blower [which you can also buy just the impellers for, although they usually are not sealed like vacuum cleaners], but it is an idea that warrants consideration. I have given thought to using one on a single cylinder engine before, just have not gotten around to trying it yet.

[@Dymitr_Nawrocki]

​@@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542 He probably would use commercially available supercharger, some snowmobiles and jet ski use centrifugal superchargers.

[@smarouchoc7300]

I enjoy seeing this process so much - I've been watching for years now, and it's really exciting to see where you are now from where you started, and what is left to do. I truly look forward to every new video. Thanks for sharing.

[@tejdz1337]

the load sensor seems to be experiencing alot of noise. ive noticed that last couple of videos

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Yes, I think it's cause the engine is running rough, cyclic low/higher power, might be that destructive resonance.

[@Tightman0815]

Or maybe because the long chain oscillates in some speed ranges, you can see it in the video…

[@HSuomi]

Add some RC filter with high time constant, like 0,1s. That solved my dyno signal oscillation.

[@NaN.404]

@@2STROKESTUFFING im no audio expert and no engine expert, and i dont know what signal the load cell gives, but, maybe you can try some tantalum or ceramic capacitors for decoupling noise on the cell outputs! And be extra careful with the ground circuit of your house, have the earth javelin or whatever you use well connected and not corroded! Electronics and noise can be such a pain

[@mattisbobbuilder]

Add shim or paper between gears before doing the nuts up with rotors in right position may get back lash in middle .

[@SmokingSteelGarage]

Just stumbled in here. What is this..... I'm hooked. 16 yr old me was always trying to get the most out of my 50cc. Now 45yr old me wants another crack at it. Great channel great editing/filming/presentation.

[@giuseppe4909]

I’ve been watching and following along….I don’t comment much as most of this is beyond me, but I will say this….What a great saga and thank you for documenting / sharing the process. 👍

[@LitchKB]

Rotrex only do centrifugal superchargers. 50cc 2stroke at 8krpm - that consumes about 50cc/1000cc x 1.293g/litre x 8000rpm / 60seconds / 2 strokes = ~4.5g/s (Ignoring VE or blowthrough). Their smallest supercharger's stall line starts at 5g/s at 1.05PR... I think you're going to have a bit of trouble keeping that engine going/revving up to speed, it should be ok once it gets into the 12krpm+ range and builds some boost. (Just speculation - I'd be happy proven wrong).

[@ericschumacher5189]

This is specifically why I think a small twin screw off of a modern snowmobile may be the way to go, given there more efficient than a roots and there’s no surge line to deal with.....keeping fuel going the correct way in a draw through setup will be difficult if the compressor is going in and out of surge when the throttle is being opened and closed rapidly, like it is in most of the videos so far....if Alex goes blow through, then things get a bit easier, but the tank will need boost referenced, and some complications will come with that in terms of sealing the carb and it’s fueling curves.

[@jamest5149]

If you can get the supercharger align/clocked correctly, you could tack with a TIG the gears to the shaft, you can always grind the tacks off if you need to dissemble the SC in the future

[@robin_marriott]

18000RPM! I’ve never owned a bike and I’ve only ridden one once but I’m here and these videos keep me coming back

[@danneliu]

Try using a heatgun instead to heat gears and houses. We use it on our alu gearboxes when changing bearings. Just leave it standing on the gear or house and it will heat it very well with no danger of overheating. It's very interesting to watch your videos hope you succeed with your goal someday ☺️

[@chrislivengood7350]

You need a low tension follower on the other side of belt opposite the tensioner. It would keep those oscillations down and reduce overall stress on all those parts.

[@russbilzing5348]

I can appreciate your workout with the leakdown tester, as I once used a sphygmomanometer bulb as a tire pump during a roadside emergency flat tire repair.

[@topcatcoast2coast579]

Your amazing. God's work, truly. Small 2-strokes and then men who dig and stuff them.

[@BlackCatRedScarf]

I had couple wmall Eaton M24 blower. They bind a bit and they are not exactly easy to be rotated, but they could get the job done. I had only one that actually made contact with the rotor and I somehow fixed it later. The damaged rotors were sanded for water underwater to make it reasonably polished again, despite few grooves. I use them on a 1 liter Zetec Rocam engine. I'm often reaching 100-130bhp (@6500-7000RPM) on those engines with these blowers (@18000 RPM). The current engine is running with a custom camshaft and my fuel o choice is the hydrated ethanol (~4% water) available at fuel stations here in Brazil. Only during winter I add a bit of of gasoline... 10-15% of low octane just to facilitate cold weather cranking. It's some really nifty stuff. I used these engines on the track and on my 1995 Ford Fiesta Mk3 daily drive. Good job with this little monster there!

[@newyorkstreetmachinz4769]

I have always loved the extreme nasty power bands of two strokes. Every video you put out makes me sit on the edge of my seat and feels like an extreme power band, LMAO. Awesome content man!!!! The explanation and guidance your offering is an amazing look into the construction of racing two strokes and is a real resource of knowledge. Thank you for the hard work man and keep that shit ripping!!!!!! You got me back at the work bench hungry to design and build my own finally. 🤘🏻🤘🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@gtpwhite]

Easy vent/ safety valve is a radiator cap. Just have to find one with the pressure you want it to vent at.

[@jannep6772]

Wow! You rev that motor to over 18000 rpm. Amazing! 😎👍 Greetings from Finland to Norway. 🇫🇮

[@AmirPomen]

Im starting to feel that u need more than 40 degree of timing at above 7k rpm... 15degree on idle range until 2.5k rpm Step up to 25degree until 4.5k rpm Another step to 35degree until 5.5k rpm Then 40degree until 9k rpm Then 45degree all the way to the top rev range.. (or could be 48degree from 14k rpm onward)

[@thomasphilyaw8593]

I'm still on this magical mystery tour of yours and enjoying every minute of it!!!

[@tonyalto1014]

Hey! That pop-off pump has an air intake hole drilled into the thumb actuated plunger. Use your blow gun to blow air into one of the holes while blocking the other with a finger. I do this to get it up to 1 or 2 psi. Saves my thumb....

[@RAWRMotorsports]

Found some info on google the 50cc landspeed world record is 233.3km/hr 😬😬 which is about 145mph and was done with a turbo 2 stroke

[@phanominon]

So awesome to see it running! Great work and I can't wait to see where you take it next.

[@Skaadi89]

Another thought cause you mentioned spark plugs I have had very good luck with a surface discharge style of plug in my 50cc 2stroke moped the one I used is NGK BU8H stock number is 6431 also look at NGK stock numbers 2422, 2522, 2622, 5626, 5526, 7447, 2147, and 2173. These plugs do not have a ground electrode that cover the center one instead they arc to the side. May help with flame front propagation. I did notice better throttle response on my moped when I switched to one of these plugs. I work at a parts store here in the usa was fairly easy to find these numbers if you need one with longer threads let me know I may be able to drum up some numbers for other alternatives as well best of luck Alex keep the vids a comin

[@stefandanalexandru9401]

I think you should really consider the fact of fine tuning the engine as n.a. finding out the best resonance range for it, with no blower u should find out what goes where and see if blower is doing some resonance damage. I sort of "feel" the engine being potentially bit rev restricted, something about the volume of mixture put into the combustion chamber. Kind of weird to explain.. 🙃 P.s. 2 strokes natural environment seem to be a resonance, but for it to have the best resonance possible it should all happen at na pressure.

[@bobmcgee7]

I just love herring this thing scream! I am really excited to see this make over 40hp!

[@stevend4544]

You're so smart hope you know how much your research and enginering is amazing and is important to us.

[@gregw6748]

No keys on shaft protects the supercharger from excess damage if it ingests anything. For instance, I race karts, and we never ever key the drive sprocket. Secondly, I sell valves, and a diaphragm over spring relief valve will never be quick enough. You need a little burst panel.

[@wags9777]

It lives! You sir have created a monster. You are on track for Bonneville next year.

[@kylereed1570]

sum of the coolest stuff on youtube right hear. R&D love it

[@jeffcrawford5359]

Digging the 2 stroke Revs ! The future is getting Bright Brother... and its going to get Brighter!

[@Rolo-Tony]

there is this lapping compound that becomes inert by itself after use, so no need for painful clean up. it's specifically used for gearboxes after assembly to get a nice mesh. it might be worthwile to run them gears through that stuff

[@Gidanski]

The last solution was close to the perfect one, use some longer bolts to hold the blanking plate on and some springs that you can adjust the pressure which it blows off from the flange as a safety valve, think air compressor tank overpressure relief valve.

[@cj15941]

Those little rotrex blowers are stout units but peter out pretty aggressively. Buddy of mine has one on his Honda Civic and we’ve got it on the party pulley and it’s just making hot air higher up in the rev range

[@cj15941]

Granted,,,, that’s his application that’s space restricted and it’s about the largest frame supercharger that’ll fit in the area allowed. I still like them

[@superliegebeest544]

Im interested in a thousend things, from food techinical economics conspiracy. But I watch when I have time. When u post a new video I watch right away. Mad respect for what ur doing. Makes me feel 16 again messing arround with my 50cc zundapps and scooters. Drilling out the ports and carb. Try all kinda exausts. Got them up to 110km/h solid. Didnt have much blowup, only once with a 80cc cylinder. I used the twostroke oil from stihl the chainsaw brand. And always put a little bit extra in the mix smoked alot haha. But what ur doing is insane. I know a couple of old fellas that used to race twostroke oldtimers up to 500cc on the tt in assen in holland. They had mad power also. But for a 50cc ur king of the hill, u surpass the kreithlers that I think hold the record in hp for 50cc.

[@TheSimonarne]

when material heats up it slightly inceeases in size so putting it on might be harder. putting the part in the freezer might help since that shrinks the material ever so slightly. not sure it works in practice but this is what i recall from physics class

[@guerrillaradio9953]

A rotrex ought to really give it the beans! The oil for those is ridiculously expensive, but they do work like crazy.

[@MyloFresh87]

only real 2 stroke enthusiasts got goosebumbs at 18k rpm !! damn!!

[@malcrandall1309]

Yes it really sings doesn't it! What would it do if the crank was better balanced.

[@philippericherpepin2825]

Look at the brake load it doesn’t really fluctuate as much it might give you a better ideal of the which run was the best. The other thing I would be scare to use a lot more ignition timing , nitromethane is really slow to burn I thing dragster use something like 60 deg and the earlier you ignite the mix the easier it is to ignite

[@bobod830_9]

I believe blower resonance could definitely be a thing. There are thousands of hours spent designing intakes for n/a car engines all around the resonance. I'm sure a small supercharged engine would have it as well.

[@jarikinnunen1718]

The marker is good to see how parts fit together.

[@dukie1616]

Completely fascinated with this entire project.

[@basedsigma5634]

Supercharger also has a RPM limit....the blower itself. Bearings max 70 k rpm

[@anvilgardgen]

Any chance you can make the comments, your comments sections a larger front please please... Loving your work and enjoying the videos, many thanks UK.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Sorry, not sure that's possible. Thanks!

[@WOTTechnologies]

If you are on a computer, just hit "ctrl" and "+". Your screen will expand. Not sure if you are on a device.

[@williamwilliams8145]

Maybe the resonance is caused by the way the long side of the belt is flapping up and down by an alarming amount. I'm assuming that the engine runs clockwise as you look at it otherwise the tensioner would be on the tight side of the belt.

[@adamcook5433]

Liked that teaser frame at the end

[@bullrush1725]

In my opinion the best you tube channel out there. Hell, I don't even mind your singing :-) Awesome videos mate. Keep them coming

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks man!

[@barrymayson2492]

I used too use solid copper gaskets as anything else would blow! This was on a race tuned 750 Norton.

[@ronniewilliz153]

The shaft must be bent for the rotating assembly.

[@davessparetime83]

you need to pre-align the vanes so when the gears turn while being pressed in

[@dashingdave2665]

Yeah, shim the outside edge away from the angle of the second gear you slot in

[@carlhelm2402]

Put a capasitor with relatively low capacitance across the rpm sensor to limit noise or put a independent rpm sensor on the flywheel for the dyno. I think this will solve many dyno problems. To solve the fuel pooling you might consider direct injection in to the combustion chamber and rpm based oil ijection to critical positions in the crankcase

[@LL-se1vj]

I would lock the gears with a small tapp of tig weld if they were on the right spot. Not bringing to much heat or it will warp the axel. Thank you for your content, always interesting 👍💪👌

[@TestECull]

I say you attach it to a generator and a load bank. Pin it WFO, use the load bank to keep it from over-revving, and just let it eat until the fuel supply runs out. Should only be a couple minutes with the half gallon or so you've got up there but that'll more than cover simulating an actual speed run. Also, with basic ohm's law, you can use the load bank to sort of sanity check the dyno you built. It's a pretty simple conversion between kW and HP, give a ~15% fuzz factor for generator/load bank inefficiency, and you've got a reasonably accurate ballpark of engine output that won't be affected by random noise or misfires making the load cell go nuts.

[@aftertheendtimes]

I am amazed by your work and stubborness you put into this project, i am so impressed =) Love cheers

[@riox3604]

39Hp at 50cc , omfg , this is amazing bro !

[@henkverzeijl1525]

I really think it needs way more timing advance because of the burn characteristics of nitro... Throttle response should be almost instant when this stuff is burning properly, nitro really likes around 45 degrees of advance because it is way slower burning..

[@IanB22]

really???? I did not know Nitro needs more timing for full combustion.

[@AmirPomen]

Thats wa i thought as well.. Even on pump gas 100-130cc 4stroke single cylinder race engine me and my buddy often set the timing up to around 42degree starting at peak power range onwards...

[@AmirPomen]

@@IanB22 yes...as reference... Lets say if an engine needs 30 degree of timing for pump gas, same engine with e85 fuel need around 35-40 degree of timing I recon with nitro that will end up around 45-48degree of timing at peak power rev range and up

[@henkverzeijl1525]

I'm no expert on E85, or on nitro for that matter, but i do know nitro likes a lot more advance, and when ignited properly you can run AFR anywhere between 8:1 all te way up to 1:1 in the most extreme cases... Which is what we're ultimately aiming for here i assume 😜

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

It's a little different in a two stroke, still might need more timing tho.

[@LAoneandonly]

Holy Moly. Respect to your engineering!!! You have to keep on!

[@jacobswann7121]

Use a flange manifold with a plate covering the hole and 2 springs on the back of the plate to hold the tension down use 2 nuts to adjust the PSI works great for my blown 4t pit bike and turbo 125cc chopper

[@MrBiddo]

You need to use feeler gauges between the rotors. to lock them in place with correct clearance

[@BVLVI]

I love these videos. I grew up with a moped and worked hard and bought a luxury car. But I still drive the moped and when they look at me like I am poor It feels good to know I have a nicer car than them but I enjoy my suped up moped without the social stigma.

[@TheAndreasKL]

Maybe you could use a gasdamper, or a shock without a spring, to get a more smooth signal from the loadcell?

[@63turbo]

adapt to straight cut gears? they will be noisier but then the tight spot wont matter.

[@iztokp]

Rotary lobe blowers are always build without keyways on both shafts. The reason is you can not cutt the grove in to the shaft in the exact position. You need a special tool to alighn the rotors with correct spacing before tightening them up. The fit betwen the sinchronisation gear and the shaft is usuall a tapered shaft.

[@fr33dumb0]

I friggin love that lamp shade.

[@eiccaw]

You have to make thinner gasket not a thicker. When the cross-sectional area in the seal increases, the pressure building up towards the outside breaks the seal more easily. Normally if there is problen whit gasket to keep pressure in side you have to decrease thickness. I recommend to use just reinzosil in that flange. Iam work on the technical side of the world's largest industrial seal manufacturer and deal with these problems on a daily basis. Keep up the good work.

[@stevenhoman2253]

First thing I think of, is the shaft straight? Even the smallest run out, would become amplified in situ.

[@paultheworldking]

Have you clocked the end float on the helical gears? If the are not perfectly aligned along the axis of the shaft they will be either extremely noisey or bind. The shims behind the bearings are to set the endfloat/preload. I think it's basically the same as a diff so the same process needs to be followed. Been a while.....

[@paavokaleva]

The most interesting series in my YT subscribed list.

[@extec101]

the blown out gasket go for a thinner one as it gives less material that can be pushed out.

[@J3n555]

If you blue the rotors you can maybe see where they are touching against eachother

[@malcrandall1309]

Yes, that's the way to do it but it takes time and patience. I think Alex has had enough of it!

[@krisztiantkacs]

Methanol and nitro is burning really slow. You need much more timing, like double at least!

[@onecookieboy]

What about if you mesh the gears together then press the blower shafts into the gears instead, you could scribe across the vanes to get correct alignment.

[@microsoft790]

sounds like it is running really nice right now

[@coltmcginnis6059]

I'm wondering if you can time the supercharger to the engine pulses because with the 2 lobe straight rotors it's definitely not producing a constant flow of boost .... Maybe a flow bench test to check and see what the boost flow looks like 🤔 , and way more timing 👍👍 keep up the great work 👍👍

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

I'm switching to something less pulsating and more efficient😁

[@georgedreisch2662]

Think you’re onto something, as a 2-stroke runs as a result of pressure frequency and for the pulsation of the blower and it varying timing for the blower drive ratio, I’m thinking a different style of blower, as he’s pursuing, may make a huge leap forward.

[@georgedreisch2662]

Thinking further, I wonder if this could have been killing the Reed valves?

[@coltmcginnis6059]

Yeah throw the roots away and find a centrifugal or your over active problem solving brain might be up to turbo on a 2 stroke 🤔 either way I can't wait to see what you come up with

[@brianhutchinson7863]

If you have further supercharger problems maybe contact Ogura Clutch they make small superchargers as well and have a distributor in Europe. Good luck with the new charger and looking forward to seeing the next video.

[@thedirtyworkshop]

Copper gaskets - forget all this paper and rubber crap

[@OddsandEndsMachining]

Maybe it would be worth putting the lobes between centres and checking the runout and seeing if there are any bends present and they match.

[@ChuckHaney]

15:00 Is that a bundle of rags on the floor? Make sure you have a fire box for storage of oily and fuel-soaked rags. It's unlikely that they cause a fire, but it's not impossible.

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

If you are experiencing resonance issues between your blower cog and your piston, you MIGHT be able to buffer that with an intercooler and a plenum, with a sonic baffle. It is more complications, yes, but it would improve the flow properties by 1, deflecting the piston pulses away from the flow with the baffle, 2, a second wave of deflection because the pressure and density difference from the upper hot air and the lower cooler air and 3, just the physical presence of the intercooler acting as a partial deflector. I'm not sure HOW much of a difference that will make, nor at what RPMs, but if nothing else, just a plenum with a reflector will help because it will disperse the pressure pulse waves while allowing other places for the compressed charge air to 'slip by' the pulses and still get to the inlet. If you can get a source of sonic finite particle modeling [some universities offer it as a free or low cost service to the public while engineering students learn how to use it], or if you can get a low cost copy of the software, you can project the physical CAD models of your system and begin with a model simulation with your current existing setup, then maybe look at existing baffle options to alter the flow, and from there, either employ something already in use, or experiment with your own extrapolations, like you did when building your cylinder.

[@simonrechner9395]

Is the pipe actually doing anything? Have you tried running it without the pipe out of curiosity? Did you ever run the landspeed engine ( without blower) in this current dyno setup? REALLY LOVE THIS CHANNEL

[@yksikaksikolmen]

That sound on the intro !!!! Underbart !!!

[@stevend4544]

What if you just used an small turbo and added a pulley for a centrifugal charger instead of a root style. Might have better response because less rotating mass

[@fivepointeightnate]

Freeze the shafts and heat the gears. That's what we do on 6 most speed gear box builds. They drop right on.

[@helldiablo8471]

For proper rotor phasing heres what you can do : Straight edge flat on one of the rotors that extends further on one side. One cylinder that its diameter is equal to the width of the rotor one of its side touches the straight edge, tge other touches the other rotors lobe. It also works with a square spacer but it has to be exactly parrallel and the woidth of one rotor. This permits to phase them this way / / and not like this l-- like you tried. Hope this makes sense Clamp this all together

[@scotttod6954]

.002 shim between the face of gear when pressing the gear on should be able to free up the bind. If it doesn't work on the one face try the opposite face.

[@wretchedexcess1654]

The subliminal insertion of the Rotrex compressor? was well done. I'll be watching for what the road trip brings the next video.

[@hallkbrdz]

I'm kind of surprised it's a roots style instead of a lysholm. It is odd they didn't even drill holes and pin them in place. Good luck with the new supercharger.

[@thedarkknight1971]

As for the gears 'Dropping into place'... Maybe heat the gears, and freeze the shafts (shove them in the freezer over a couple of hours), seen a couple of vids do this, sometimes it's just light finger pressure that helps push them on if both heat and freeze treatments are used together... ALSO, placing a thin strip of brass/copper shim in between the blades of the lobes, to maintain the gap whilst pressing on the gears could help too 😉👍 😎🇬🇧

[@graxav]

Just a thought, If both rotors cannot move, how would the second key be inserted? In a fixed jig that would be impossible? If the key was cut right to the end of the shaft, it would have to align perfectly when the helical gear stops rotating in the press. Other screw compressors I have worked on, the entire bearing housing can be loosened making it easy to disengage the gears and fit dual keys - then refit the whole assembly.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Splined shafts would be the way I think.

[@CoachSimonDavid]

I may be way off here, but does shimming the gears not provide some minute rotational alignment?

[@geirkleven3936]

You need more timing on top, if not the mixture is set off to late due to piston speed at high revs

[@davidgwin4540]

I feel like once the first gear ⚙️ with the key puts tension on the other rotor and it is spun in the direction it needs to go. Then the nut is torque on the one that is not keyed with slight tension, it should be good. Just a thing to try. Huge fan of this channel 👍