Surfboard Talk: Catch more waves using volume

[@johnguentner4887]

Cool to hear this explained in detail, I’m sure shape matters a ton too, but I started out on a 8’ log thinking it was huge, but after some lessons with an experienced surfer they were like I learned on a 8’ log and you’re 10” taller and about double my weight- you need a big volume 9’ foamie. (I’m 6’0”, 208 lbs, teacher was 5’2” and 95 lbs). Got a used 9’ and Needless to say - it made an absolute world of difference!!

[@KyleSurfHawaii]

Awesome interview I’m an advanced surfer. Surfed all my life. But always remaining a student / teacher this video was a good one. Aloha 😎🤙🏽🏄🏽‍♂️

[@whitewaterwarrior3339]

So many beginners riding the latest hp shortboard with no flow and can’t link a turn but think bigger boards aren’t cool enough

[@williamhanley7031]

Ive been laughing about it for 5 years. A lot of people have not a clue bro.

[@williamhanley7031]

Even moderate surfers. When they get speed and try to turn when the waves get bigger. It doesn't handle the turn, or have to do 2 bottum turns to get up the face.

[@teranhughes77]

Volume matters but waterline length matters A LOT re: paddling speed-- the longer board w/same vol will generally paddle faster. And more board paddle speed =higher wave count potential

[@sachaDS0]

@@teranhughes77 I can attest to that, having tried board about the same volume but one being super short and the other more elongated, the long one paddles better 100%! Short wider boards offer better plaining area on shitty surf though, so it's a compromise game.

[@FrankTankFlinns]

so many variables with boards, great stuff

[@w.coast_piano6404]

I have a 6,8 epoxy board with 54 liters I only weigh 150 but makes life so easy I love my high liter boards

[@safetybeachlife]

Ditto. 6’6 at 49 Ltr, and 7’6 superfish with 55 ltr, and 7’2 small wave beast at 65 ltr. Catch everything.

[@w.coast_piano6404]

@@safetybeachlife I love it. One thing I will say is I haven’t noticed the bigger rail affecting my performance it doesn’t feel different but I wouldn’t say in a bad way. What I really don’t like about it though is how it feels to grab the rail much less satisfying haha. And realistically I think having a 6,6 with something more like 44 liters would be better for me

[@danielbarbieri8199]

Yes indeed the volume helps to catch more waves. But at the sacrifice of maneuverability and rail stability. It is a personal compromise that everyone must discover and which is not definitive. This is why it is often necessary to have two or three boards to optimize the sessions according to the surfing conditions and one's own physical condition of the day... During normal progression we will seek to gradually reduce the length and the volume of the board. Then as we get older it will be the opposite 😁 Today I am 62 years old, and I am not capable of surfing a board less than 55 liters and less than 7.2 long. My regular board is a takayama egg 7'6. And I have a 9'2 longboard for the low season.

[@thestow35]

great content. insights from a shaper that understands what is important

[@Mongiloyd]

In a general sense I would agree, foam is your friend. But that doesn't mean a volume number> shape, length, width, curves etc. After his volume statement the guy proceeds to talk about thickness and length. So I dont think he doesn't know what he's talking about, but rather make a bold statement and proceed to talk like other shapers would.

[@michaeldill7620]

One thing to consider is more volume. = less ability to duck dive../. Out local break gets big in winter and there are times where you can’t paddle out on a big day. But once your out. A rhino chaser is a dream. As Greenwich said. Foam is your friend. Nice video

[@donburroughs6869]

Wow, makes sense, explanes why my 9' Dale Velzy long board was solo easy to catch waves, compared to my Small Faces 6'5" triple bump thruster. Was supposed to be 6'9". I'm looking forward to getting a new board!!!!

[@sachaDS0]

One trick I'd add for everyday surfers riding everyday waves: Add volume until it's getting hard to duck dive. The ability to duck dive is super important and it's pretty impossible if the board gets too big. You'll get a good compromise with maximum float but still duck diving big sets like a boss.

[@stevesantagati2264]

you were the ONLY one I saw mention this. I weigh 175LBS (with a wetsuit maybe 180) What do you think is the most volume I could Duck dive? BTW - I ONLY foil and am currently on a 43L board. only 18 inches wide. Would love your opinion. thanks

[@adamcoyne9574]

This guy should have a debate with bill stewart on volume.

[@andresmuniz1257]

Surf and show Noel talks about Dialing in your boards. He is spot on. I'm 6/ 150 and 27 L. Every one should go what that video

[@jroberta7134]

On fast waves, I find either a longboard where I can get in very early (bf wave is breaking) OR a pretty small board where I’m “in” the wave and take off as it begins to break is much better than a mid length which seems the worst of both worlds in that situation bc not enough volume to get in real early and too much volume to catch and turn quickly.

[@supremeradiant01]

Great video! #LACI

[@stevesantagati2264]

I weigh 175LBS (with a wetsuit maybe 180) What do you think is the most volume I could Duck dive? BTW - I ONLY foil and am currently on a 43L board. only 18 inches wide. Would love your opinion. thanks

[@laughteraddict1003]

Volume placement is crucial. I have a high volume pod mod and its junk in mushy waves. Too much volume up front. This board performs will in steep waves. The high volume in the nose makes it hard to get thenose down on softer waves

[@27AUSSIECHAMP]

Pod mod is such a versatile board. I've ridden it in waist high to slightly overhead. Love that thing 🎉🙂

[@williamhanley7031]

Ive been trying to get my friends to stop the riding of a 5'7 in 6 foot surf. Stop the 5'7 or 5'8 riding completely. They are compromising there surfing. Now after 5 years of this , people are catching on. I knew it the whole time.

[@livedeliciously]

Being overvolumed on small days is such a hack. That's why girls on tiny logs can get into waves more easily despite having less paddling power.

[@phillippearce9680]

👍

[@williamhanley7031]

Thickness and length was the only thing we went by until the 2000's

[@williamhanley7031]

El ninio board. Ride it and feel the difference. People think, of but I can't turn it. Bull shit . I can turn my 7'6

[@sctim123]

Blah blah yak yak yak