SV1000 Electrical fault explained

[@DavidMcLuckie]

My Dad had an old Super Tenere(I think, one of many bikes) which had a dodgy rectifier when the bike was hot. We tested it with the output on an oscilloscope. Instead of having a DC output (with a little ripple) it was a sine wave. We stuck it back on its heatsink with new thermal paste and added a fan. After that it worked fine.

[@ianchalmers3206]

G' day Matt, love the single engine plane doing victory laps just as you get to the satisfaction of resolving the problem. I like the electrical and wiring jobs on bikes and small engines and I am really looking forward to a video of you covering the system. Australia.

[@stevehill4615]

sounds like when your stator magnets moved the high average voltage/current fried the scr in the regulator part of the r/r unit, but it might be worthwhile checking how hot the reg/rectifier (i'm assuming it's a 5 or 6 wire block type) unit gets on a ride as it may be lack of cooling or high resistances in the wiring and "earths"/-ves causing the reg/regulator to overheat (if it's too hot to touch check the temp as much above 60C the components will cook) and fail.

[@mikewynne6549]

Glad you put that up Matt, had the same issues a couple of months ago. Went through the same checks. It was the battery in my case. Managed to get a battery sent over and it was fine afterwards. Sorted just before I went over to France 🏍🇫🇷 lol

[@jochie18]

That shirt though XD

[@richardjones2151]

Hia Matt, interesting vid. Just a heads-up before a jumped-up troll chimes-in: I noticed that the rectifier you drew on the board was a single phase bridge (four diodes in a square arrangement). I think that if the generator is three phase...then the bridge in the bike's reg/rec would have a three-phase bridge (six diode arrangement) to match the threee phase generator output. Both single phase bridge and three phase bridges give a lumpy dc output ready to be smoothed out a bit, before connecting to the battery for charging.. Cheers again Matt :-)

[@thedirtyworkshop]

The SCR's were missing - and it was for sketch purposes only LOL

[@beachboardfan9544]

Think electroboom would be proud of this explanation. 👍

[@noggintube]

Needed a FUUUUUULL bridge rectifier in there ;)

[@tehsimo]

Tell us more about these pens you store in this unusual way

[@WJRobbins125]

Love the shirt! Are you still hobbled with your ankle?

[@StevePlegge]

I had a y2k VTR1000F Superhawk for 15 years. Hondas of that era were well known for blowing their R/Rs, supposedly due to overheating. I got all proactive and hooked up a 486 type CPU fan so that it came on with the ignition, then bolted that sumbitch to the R/R. That bad boy was still going strong as of last month.

[@kermit30au]

Steve Plegge my blackbird eats the damn things.

[@StevePlegge]

Thomas Matovinovic Try a fan!

[@Coldfin9er]

Loose the shitty connectors Honda use and either change to a decent weather pack type or direct connect the 3 wires from the stator to the reg/rec.

[@StevePlegge]

Coldfin9er Not my scooter no more.

[@prop7184]

Matt, I am not that familiar with your bike but is there not a voltage regulator contained in the rectifier unit? Perhaps this is why the diodes/rectifier side checked out as good, but the voltage may not be regulated correctly by the voltage regulating transistor side of things. Either way it sounds like you got to the bottom of it.

[@joonya4427]

That's my understanding as well. I have always called them reg/recs.

[@hedley326]

The RAC guy who recovered me, showed me a good test with an Amp Clamp. Hooking on the...... positive I believe?, When you switch the lights on and off with the bike running. The amps should fall then rise when the lights go on. If not, it's a good indicator of a rectifier failure

[@thedirtyworkshop]

Really? hmmmmmm

[@hedley326]

Yeah. He showed a test for the needles coming out the generator with the multimeter. Put an amp Clamp around.....fuck what terminal was it?. Anyway you get a reading. (Engine running). Switch lights on. Amps should fall for a second then rise. If they don't rise, it's a good indicator of the rectifier. I'm just going from what he said. I'm just a bloody matelot. I learn from the likes of you and Del bollocks. 😂

[@ryanmg92]

Don't take this the wrong way Matt, just asking out of curiosity, What made you not go straight to testing the charging voltage straight away while doing your initial diagnosis, I know your not actually I bike mechanic but would have though with your how and why things work knowledge you would have gone straight for that once you realised your battery had discharged while riding. Surprised the breakdown company didn't look tbh, I work for one and if I get a cut out on bikes, no start, it's one of the first things I check. All the best mate

[@thedirtyworkshop]

"Don't take this the wrong way Matt, just asking out of curiosity, " - Totally offended - comment deleted! LOL This was the order I did things. I didn't have the multimeter at home - so the first thing to do was just charge the battery and she if something else had died. The recover truck was just that. Recovery and no tools. After I got the bike back to the garage (my garage) I tested the charge circuit. So that left me with the coil or rectifier. I tested the rectifier in the video I posted at the time, and then checked the coil..... The rest is history.

[@doctorhelicopter]

Ive got a bad habit of roll starting bikes when they have a dead battery. Recently had a terrible time with my SV thou. Seemed torun worse and worse. Im guessing the rear plug is badly fouled, but really wondering why the stator wouldnt run the bike

[@muslimzakaryha]

Blew three regulators on my 04 daytona 955i within 4000 miles. Finally have a new stator and mosfet regulator. Which connects direct to the battery. Has an extra heat sink plate too. Plus i added a pc fan as there is 0 air flow on the 04 955i daytona to the regulator. It's almost like it's deliberately done to burn regulators. But finally now it seems to be working.

[@trytthisnowk]

Had the same issue on my gsx-r at around same time as you. (was waiting for this video :) ) i also did the rectifier test, and passed the diode check. So i thought it had to be the stator ( which was giving out like 65v, i thought it was low and replaced it) silly me because it was the rectifier in the end.. oh well.

[@trytthisnowk]

Btw mine was charging 14volts at idle and started dropping as revs went up

[@idrideanything9751]

Exact same problem with my 03 vfr the last couple of weeks . Left stranded .. brand new battery . Sators good rectifer is pumping out 14 plus volts But only 13 v at 4000 rpm at the battety. I found melted connections at the starter solinoid and main fuse area. Clen that mess up as best i could but still the same. New started solinoid block connector and bits of wire gonna be replaced this week. If that doesnt sort it out im stumped. Iv a sneeking suspision its an intermittin problem with the rectifer.

[@PTReDaLeRtPT]

03:16 - After a bridge rectifier you don't get DC. Just AC but with all (or half, if it's a half phase rectifier) phases with positive amplitude. You convert it to DC through an inductive element (current power supply) or a capacitive one (voltage power supply) or a combination of both. Most of the DC conversion is done through the capacitive properties of the lead-acid batery.

[@thedirtyworkshop]

LOL what? Its AC without the sine wave? That's DC...... "Most of the DC conversion is done through the capacitive properties of the lead-acid batery." - try sticking the leads from your multimeter into the output from the rectifier. Set it to DC and see what happens.....

[@PTReDaLeRtPT]

The Workshop not every A.C. must be a sine wave. Pure bridge rectifiers just rectify the waves to a positive amplitude, full or half wave. Must of the ones used don't have any inductive elements to linearize the current to achieve pure continuous current. The usually load acts as a capacitor or an inductor (or a combination of both)

[@thedirtyworkshop]

To be fair recifiers in bikes are not full bridge rectifiers with 4 diodes but 6 pulse full wave rectifier

[@simonmallia2051]

hey mat nice vid ... good to see you get to the bottom of the problem ! as i am and have been a HONDA fan boy for many years i have tried most of the hacks to try help the regulator rectifier out .. like fitting a pc fan that actuates with the ignition key / heatsink paste.. shit once upon a time might of helped if honda had fitted cooling fins ya think ? anyway what i found is that the real problem is 1970s tech ? diodes brake down and become erratic with time / heat .. the future is mosfet and the guys to use are shindengen

[@Coldfin9er]

Zener diode, LED, resistor, 3 things needed to build a simple voltage monitor circuit to keep an eye on the changing system when the bike is running.

[@eurobeatmachinist732]

I would really like to know more about this? Maybe some links or even a video😅

[@Coldfin9er]

If you're unsure about the electrical components just buy one, they are cheep and effective. Have a look at Sparkbright. www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkbright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

[@Cronus111]

Matt repping the weeb merch

[@TheYakkis]

Why does your bike look like hammered dog shit !!!! Bwahahaha !!!! You mean bastard ! That's hilarious. This might catch on.

[@Motoinc]

A question: How7Where do YOU recommend to connect a cooling fan on my MX bike, that have a batteryless system? KX450f EFI Dont get DC or AC. I myself whas thinking just after the rectifier ? Why you ask... Because i want to put a cooling fan on for the trails.

[@motominx7507]

Had a similar problem ,, bike would just cut out while riding, electrically dead. Tested battery, 14.7v ,, but when the bike was at idle, charging was 15.7v , at 2000rpm charging was over 20v . Lead acid Battery was bone dry & swollen. The RR had obviously failed , OEM RR $260 , Chinese knockoff $26 ,, 2yrs later & the knockoff is still working

[@TingBiker]

Just changed the reg/rec and the stator on my Kawasaki VN900 and still not getting above 12.6v. bought from same place as you did. Reg /rec is testing ok. Any ideas Matt? Or anyone

[@TingBiker]

Sorted. Do not trap wire and earth it to the frame. I'm a dumbass 😂

[@kester135]

Whats the shirt say?

[@joonya4427]

There are good aftermarket reg/recs available, but beware of cheap Chinese ones off Ebay. I have seen plenty of faulty ones that do wonderful things like melt your bikes wiring. Have even seen a bike that had its wiring catch fire due to a cheap Chinese reg/rec.

[@StevePlegge]

It's never lupus (House MD) and it's always the regulator/rectifier.

[@StevePlegge]

WHY DOES YOUR BIKE whut?

[@thedirtyworkshop]

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[@StevePlegge]

The Workshop HAH! Well done.

[@Section59.]

#winning. He weighed the tail btw!

[@upsidedowndog1256]

I have never seen a 12 volt battery fully charged after sitting for a few hours read more than 12.8 volts. WTH brand or type of battery is that? The aftermarket has good inexpensive replacement rectifier/regulators.

[@TheAnigai]

Couldn't you have just chucked the one in from the XJ6 and rode around for a while to se if that would have solved it? A friend of mine bodged a reg/rec from a Bros 400 onto a wee SR125 and it's still going strong 2 years later.

[@thedirtyworkshop]

The XJ was at the garage - the SV was at home - they're about 5 miles apart - so no.

[@lkneepkens53]

Please read in about the three fase rectifier Matt, you drew a single fase one. A three fase rectifier has 6(!) diodes in stead of 4 like you drown. Btw i like your technical teaching a lot.

[@thedirtyworkshop]

LOL like I said in the video 'it doesn't matter' for this example. There's also a regulator missing etc - this was more about the system as a hole

[@davidlovsin]

Can you please give me the site wher you bought the rectifier i need a rectifier for my hyosung? And the oem are 120 euros and the ebay are shit.

[@frzen]

Again my sv650 became a sv325 in the rain yesterday. the first rain in 40 days and I had to turn back and park up the bike and get a lift apparently I have to put dialectric grease on it and I also need to get a new entire coil because the lead part is already too short from people shortening and reattaching plug caps over the years, and the pointy coil and lead aren't 2 units for some fucking reason

[@dadalixxx]

best shirt

[@drunknpossum]

with all the new electronics on bikes today, it's hard to test using old school ways...

[@tranixter]

I just replaced the battery, rectifier, fly wheel and stator, yet the same "battery dead" symptom showed up not 1000 miles later... No aftermarket electronics or mods except the GSXR forks.

[@thedirtyworkshop]

Then it wasn't those things, and you didn't find the problem

[@Triumph_2000]

Hey Matt, what is the that motorcycle on your white board? I'm trying to work it out but can't read the manufacturers name it looks sexy, also where did you get your comedy Jesus? No disrespect intended to Christianity other popular cults are available lol.

[@thedirtyworkshop]

on the left or right hand side? And unfortunately they don't sell the 'buddy christ' this size anymore

[@Triumph_2000]

Left hand side or the right of yourself fella.

[@wynjones1033]

Nice

[@KieranGarland]

Swear your generator diagram is a flux capacitor.

[@Da_Storm_420]

Fuck it... FIRST!

[@YustasF]

Безумного много пустых слов.