Testing Multiple Siraya-Tech Resin Mixtures for Maximum Strength!

[@justinjohnson4516]

This video is a case study in how to do quality testing, deliver the information w/out a lot of intro and padding, and land a concise, informative experience. Fantastic work, you've earned my subscription!

[@IndyRockStar]

i just mixed 1 part Siraya Tech Build w/ 2 parts Siraya Tech Blu. Surprising strong, and very cool color. Easy to cut or print threads into the parts.

[@bitosdelaplaya]

Thanks. I dont have test a lot of resin but siraya product are impressive. For now i've tested BUILD (cool results) and SIMPLE (too sensible to relative humidity). But i'm going to buy 1l of tech blue to test.

[@GoobertownHobbies]

Very useful, thanks for making this!! :-)

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@Israel Anthony Instablaster ;)

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[@indiemachines]

This was the exact video I was looking for! Very informative and concise! Something very few youtube videos are. Have you continued to experiment? What is your favorite blend? I'm also printing mechanical parts (frames for animatronics and such) so your experience is perfect. Most resin printing videos are all about minis and such. Thanks in advance!

[@chatbear69]

Very cool video. Maybe create a downloadable spreadsheet with the results small graphs showcasing the results. A little extra work but well worth it I think. As always a great video with you being the man David. Keep up the great work.

[@ThatGuyZeb]

Thank you so much.

[@robertnewman4854]

I massively appreciate this test, definitely confirms what I was hoping would be the case. Most of my printing tends to focus of firearms and gunsmithing applications, and although Blu works well due to it's heat resistance and general toughness, I have had a suspicion that a bit more flexibility would help prevent the issue of recoil induced cracking . Just placed an order for some tenacious. Thanks!

[@DIYEngineering]

NP, sounds like you're making some fun stuff! ;)

[@rgstever]

I too work in the same area. 70% Tenacious and 30% blu make great glock frames.

[@jefferynichols2549]

was sculpt grey and sculpt ultra white not options back when you did this?

[@hauntswargaming]

Thanks for this test! I'm gonna try the Fast and see if I like it.

[@brettcardon4552]

Great video! Educational and well made thank you very much!

[@mubute]

Really appreciate the scientific and practical stuff you post. I’ve been on a constant search for the strongest resins for a few years for the various mechanical parts I create. I’ve come to Esun hard/tough as being most resistant by a significant margin to certain breaking forces. Blu being second to that for sure. Though now I’m curious about a Tenacious blend to trade off some flexibility for strength. Have you ever used the Esun or compared the two? To me these are the only options I’ve come across (at least among the affordable resins).

[@orion7741]

I bought the Blu, and was so looking forward to the cool blue parts, but it was all clear..... I cried a little, but its still super freaking strong!!! it makes great leather stamps.

[@DIYEngineering]

Haha, wow, that’s pretty strong!

[@SecularMentat]

I'd very much like to see a concentration vs tensile strength curve for both of your best mixtures. Just to get and idea what the 'ideal' cost vs. benefit would be. Thank you btw. This was very informative.

[@xnaron2]

You should try the blu version 2. I have found it stronger than the original.

[@YonOShon]

I would love to see siraya fast compared to other hard siraya resins as well! ( simple, build, and sculpt ) simple could be a could be a cheap filler! maybe if we mix them all it will be super resin

[@blueckaym]

KZbinr 'My Tech Fun' have couple of videos testing Siraya-tech resins Blu-Tenacious like yours, and another Blu vs PETG. He makes very good tests so I guess you could get some more info there.

[@musikbandcocktail]

More important than a break test would be what happens when I have a functional part with a joint and whether there is abrasion!?

[@DIYEngineering]

In this case tensile strength and flex modulus were most important for my heavy weight project. I would not recommend using resin in situations with abrasion. My design used bearings. I’ll do more test in the future with these as needed.

[@emrelee]

nice tests and brief video, thanks. I am looking forward to print with sculpt resin but I will print 1/64 car parts and figures over 10" at least.. I am looking forward to get rigidity for my prints (especially the 1/64 car parts) I was thinking of adding tenacious to sculpt %20-%80 but this video got me wonder if I should get blu instead of tenacious?

[@DamianiBJJLifestyle]

I’m looking for same thing. You found a good resin or mixing resin for this ? Please can share your experience?

[@MMQsTacosConLimons]

what is a good uv power % for translucent resin?

[@reinaldochacin8976]

Hello!! Great video, I have a question: siraya form is ok for printer formlab 3B+

[@DIYEngineering]

Formlabs Form 3B+ is a closed resin environment, you can only use Form resins with the Formlabs printers.

[@AndrewAHayes]

It would also be informative to put up the best mixture against a PETG printed part, it would be good to know how close resin can get to PETG strength

[@DIYEngineering]

Andrew Hayes right, comparing fdm with resin definitely will require the improved testing apparatus. Once I make that I’ll be revisiting this topic.

[@RandomMan1]

It would have been nice of you'd shown the rigidity of each...

[@Waltkat]

This review is great but I wonder where Siraya Tech Build falls in this strength test.

[@bakedbeings]

How's the precision on your blue/tenacious mix? Could you you make small (5-15mm) parts that fit together with tight tolerances?

[@DIYEngineering]

my experience with it is good. my parts were fairly tight tolerance (I added 0.25mm tolerance to the models) and they fit well. generally, I would say that the consistency of a resin printed model is closely related to the consistency of the post process (clean/cure time consistency) good luck

[@bakedbeings]

@@DIYEngineering Thanks for the help! I saw that the layer times for the blu on a sonic mini (provided by Siraya Tech) were up in the 8 second range which is much longer than other resins on a mono screen (2.5-4.5). How'd you go with layer time on the fast+tenacious vs blu+tenacious? Does it double the print time and for you would that be worth the improvement?

[@bakedbeings]

@@DIYEngineering (PS I've already received the blu and tenacious, will be testing soon once my temp control setup is tuned)

[@bitosdelaplaya]

I'm testing BUILD and SIMPLE. The precision is impressive. I'm in the process of tweaking XYZ axis ratio to have Exact measure.

[@trubttam]

Hello, would a cured uv resin print survive if exposed to direct sunlight for ~3hrs per week, I am thinking of making a GoPro mount with a mix of blu and tenacious

[@DIYEngineering]

I believe the critical part of that will be how you protect the part from the UV degredation which will cause the part to lose its material characteristics. My recommendation is to use a uv or ceramic coating to dramatically extend the life of the part.

[@scottman572]

What printer and exposure settings were used for these?

[@DIYEngineering]

the test parts were all printed on an anycubic photon (using the photon printer profile in chitubox), cleaned in 99% IPA, then post cured for 10 minutes at 65 degrees c for 15 minutes

[@deadboydeadboy]

Woo! So glad I found your video. I only print miniatures and a 3 foot drop with my fast printed miniatures is guaranteed break. After watching your video I am pretty much never going to order fast again. The fixability of Tenacious doesn't matter much for miniatures as long as the same eventually resets.

[@jenspetersen5865]

Great video without a single miniature model. I am very interested in the tenacoius resin and its surface properties. We need to design something to hold small items with vacuum and while I can find FDM TPU prints I find nothing in the resin printing. Tenacious should have a shore of 65 - roughly like silicone rubber, and for our process it would be great to print the first 4mm in soft material and the next 10 in ex. a tenacious/blue combo.

[@Revvek]

What about 3 way mixes of these? Or does adding fast just not give any benefit? (It’s more watery so maybe helps with print temp requirements? If nothing else. Etc)

[@DIYEngineering]

I used a triple mix for the overhead gimbal, it worked good but there is diminishing return as you add more fast

[@Revvek]

@@DIYEngineering what mix? I’ll dig in your videos and see if I can find the part you mentioned. I’m looking for something strong enough to put M3 screws into, partly taped, so they lock similar to a lock nut. So far Fast has been great alone. I also did a 10/90 blue/fast test and didn’t really notice much difference. Looking at your numbers, I’m not sure blu is all that great. I also did a small amount of 50/50 fast blu and it definitely seems to want warmer temps to flow better. Maybe blu isn’t worth it... I need to play with the tenacious I just got the other day.

[@vladmirputin7139]

What was the ratio you mixed the blu/tenacious at?

[@DIYEngineering]

all mixes were 50/50%

[@minion9707]

what is the best way to counter the 6% volume shrink I've noticed some of my parts aren't connecting right too loose or just simply too tight I'm new to the whole resin print community and I'm finding Siraya Blu kind of hard to get accurate.

[@DIYEngineering]

Thoroughly clean parts in fresh ipa, allow time to outgas alcohol that is absorbed. Cure for same amount of time. Define your formula and be consistent.

[@minion9707]

@@DIYEngineering Oh so it's more to the end process rather than scaling the model a little bit bigger? I thought you had to add the 6% shrinkage on top of the overall scale to counter the shrinkage Thanks.

[@DIYEngineering]

@@minion9707 resin can be affected dimensionally depending on the shape and thickness of the part that you are printing. it can be exaggerated by not having a consistent and uniform post process. hope this helps

[@VincentVeak]

This is actually exactly what I was looking for! I was looking to make something robust that could be tapped and screwed and this is the perfect video. What mixture ratio did you settle with?

[@DIYEngineering]

I think i went with 70:30 blu/tenacious for the overhead gimbal It has lasted over a year under heavy load considerably well! Some parts are starting to show fatigue. But it’s worked great.

[@VincentVeak]

@@DIYEngineering oh perfect that was the ratio I planned on testing first anyways!

[@wildguardian]

If I could see a video like this.. but also comparing prints with a caliper.. checkijg macro photos.. seeing which details were lost or not.. I could find the perfect combination that worked for me. Mixing this or that.. or not.. theoretically each resin has its own propertymies on details, expanding and/or shrinking.. that's also important when making a decision besides resistance. Yeah even if the subject is mechanical parts printed.. precision is key. I don't want to print with finicky mixes that have unstable sizes when fitting each other

[@vikingcat2640]

Try "build" if you can find it. I'm interested in what is the most dimensionally accurate with no shrinkage that can be drilled and tapped, or takes threaded inserts well.

[@DIYEngineering]

hemi4unme i agree, I’ve reached out to them. My opinion is a 60/40 of blu/tenacious will give you the best results

[@KillSwitch1970]

You don't have to use 50/50.. I take a full 1 litter bottle of Fast and pour a 150ml of tenacious in it. There is enough room in a new unused bottle of fast for this 150ml. Mix up real good and I use that throughout the day, every day, with unbelievable results.

[@DIYEngineering]

that may work for your application, but the mixture ratio is ultimately dependent on your desired material characteristics and application.

[@KillSwitch1970]

@@DIYEngineering Understand, I wasn't saying it has to be that way, just letting others know it's not required to be 50/50 since that is the only mixed setting you spoke of. Good vid though.

[@NitrousBanshee]

Cool cool

[@user-gk2cg2th9h]

Now if only you did a fast/Blu combo we could guesstimate what 3 way mixtures would look like

[@DIYEngineering]

I did... kzbin.info/www/bejne/amPcaZaunbiVfas

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[@johnnymotorboat8824]

I'm not crazy but sunlu abs like resin is amazing but I've never cured my parts of the machine. Idk if it gets much tougher. I've never had one failed print... Ever. After the calibrations of course

[@3dtechnologies153]

How do they hold up to heat?

[@DIYEngineering]

All tests were performed in 72 degrees environment. And while i didn’t run specific great related tests, i did notice that pure tenacious resin is very susceptible to heat, its flexibility improves the hotter that it is and will deform if you let it cool while deformed.

[@3dtechnologies153]

@@DIYEngineering Some of your viewers may want to know how these stand up to heat.

[@MANOAT0564]

CUIDADO!!! si esta resina cae sobre objetos plásticos y se posa en ellos por algunas horas los degrada y derrite. cayó sobre la USB que uso para imprimir y la derritió.

[@jamessawyer1331]

this or eSun

[@deo-nis]

It is funny, I come up with the same mixture 60:40 ratio of tenacious and fast ... "science works bitches"