Testing the Ammo Can Stove at 20 Degrees

Using the Ammo Can Stove I built in this video: • Make Your Own Ammo Can...
And the Teepee I made in this video: • How to Make a Hot Tent...
Testing the ammo can stove in the teepee with wood pellets on a 20 degree day.

[@dutchk9833]

Very nice. I just got back from a Canadian Moose Hunt and we stayed in a 12’x12’ structure with materials like yours. It had a wood burner stove about two times the size of a 20mm ammo can. We learned the best way to use it at night was to start a fire, load it up, and close the chimney flue and barely open the air regulator holes like yours. It choked the fire down making the wood last 3hrs instead of one hour with everything open. I did notice a small hole in on the top near the flue in the back. I assumed it was for air flow with the stove fully closed. It kept the tent 50 degrees which like you said is comfortable when it was 20 at night.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Sounds awesome, Dutch! I'll have to try that method with my stove next time. I'm itching to get out and use it again!

[@gregoryhare6538]

I like to thank you for showing all the one's that has seen you making your stove and i have to say seeing you and some other older guys making some hobo stoves and seeing you make your stoves out of the military ammo box. You have given me some ideas of what i might put on it. Abd i like to say thanks again keep cool.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks, Gregory! I'd be interested in seeing the end result of what you come up with.

[@chrisxx012]

You should be able to add a gasifier in that stove for a secondary burn which would make it more efficient. Warhol in the corner running some copper pipe with some holes drilled in it

[@Valerifon1]

I enjoyed watching the entire video. Nice stove and now I'm going to watch you build your stove and tarp tent! Thank you for posting this! Cheers - Luther

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Hey Luther, this is the perfect weather for watching that kind of thing. Thanks for the comment! I hope you have the chance to make your own.

[@Standswithabeer]

Most excellent; thank you.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks, StandsWithABeer!

[@johnhunter7541]

Close the dampers

[@StevenSchoolAlchemy]

Good job.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks again, Steven.

[@banshee107]

Fantastic! I have the same size ammo can stove I used this past weekend in my miltech tipi. -2 C outsize and inside I got it to +32 C. Didn’t think it would work but boy am I happy with it!

[@timcanthejigman7932]

That's awesome, banshee107! I'd like to see your setup.

[@banshee107]

I’m going to try and make a vid and post it very soon. I looked into your other video where you created the stove and it’s very very similar. My father made the stove for me and gave it to me as a Christmas gift. He said he used references from YT so I’m guessing he stumbled across your videos lol.

[@mouse6196]

In my tests wood pellets burn very hot...,but...once going you can close the vents and restrict the flu for a longer burn. You should close some vents to slow the burn. It's referred to as choking the fire.

[@rronmar]

The problem is that pellets have so much surface area that once heated they release a ton of wood gas. In this case, choke = smoke, a lot of it. Choking off the airflow on that much fuel simply makes it into a smoke machine. In this case, opening the door induces a lot of fresh air, cooling the box and reducing the wood gas production without rolling coal out the stack:)

[@ireland66613]

Just found your channel it is awsome.I love the long videos relaxing to watch .Thank you .subbed and liked

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thank you, ireland66613! I appreciate the comments and the sub.

[@WayneTheSeine]

Very good job. Really nice and neat work. Sweet little stove.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thank you, Wayne! I hope you got to watch one of the videos where I made it.

[@WayneTheSeine]

I did.... a posted the tip about putting a nut on a bolt before cutting it off and filing the end.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I remember the tip! Now I'll remember the name. :)

[@Jeff-1969]

Great info 😉👍

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks, Do Not Watch!

[@BrosephRussell]

Sweet ammo can stove

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks, Broseph!

[@kcjazz62]

Table ideas: a large stump cut to height, a metal, fiberglass, or plastic cafeteria serving tray for ground level or food prep table. There are several manufactured tables for different ground heights, from a few inches to full table height, made for backpacking & camping.

[@dougfuhr9740]

impressive. - never seen red hot tent stove in broad day light b4. nice design sir

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thank you! I hope to not see it red hot again.

[@kcjazz62]

A Smart Mod for this setup would be warming trays on the sides that flip down & are supported by a wire hanging from the expanded metal top (S-hook coat hanger) and a possible flip down perpetual water heater shelf on back side. Capturing the wasted heat from the flue pipe. A modified zebra pot (with funnel in top & outlet pipe at upper part of side) & short copper coil slid over the lower section of flue pipe would provide constant hot water & leave the top open for full use. Minimal weight added, modular, compact, passive, and added versatility & functionality for short & long trips alike. The zebra pot should store these added parts when not in use.

[@carlosenriquerodriguezdiaz8058]

Amigo, haga su propio video, sugerir qué hacer es fácil, difícil es hacerlo, decía mi padre, " cuándo ud tenga yegua le hecha el padrillo qué quiera"

[@EricFB]

Small sawdust logs work well. Cut them to size if you need too. I buy the ones that are about 3x3x10 inches and they burn about an hour unattended then smolder for a couple more hours after.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

+Eric B, someone else had mentioned using presto logs so I bought one but haven't tried it out yet. The label says to only use them in open fireplaces, not in closed stoves. I figured it's because it needs more oxygen since they are so compressed and compact. Glad to hear they do work. I'll try out the one I have. Thanks!

[@matticerael5202]

Good instructive video. Some suggestions regarding frost is to copy the Indian winterizing of teepees by using a liner. Also, the reason the stove is burning too hot with the pellets is because you loaded the stove with pellets instead of using a homemade flow regulator. It's like you torched a gallon of gasoline instead of using the vapor method of burning regulated in a normal combustion engine. See the videos for construction I saw by Slim Potato head, called a woodstove for camping parts 1 and 2. All you need is an opening on top for the regulator and the small basket for accepting fuel inside the stove.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks for the tips! Slim Potatohead's videos are interesting to watch, I'll go look for those.

[@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN]

Long vid but watchable to the end 👍

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks again, pa maj!

[@johngeyer2971]

If you remove that grate on top and allow the pot to contact the surface directly, the water in the pot will conduct the heat away from the top and heat the water faster as well.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Good catch, John. I don't normally use it with the kettle but it helps regulate the heat when I'm using a fry pan. Mine is non-stick aluminum and I don't like for it to get as hot as it would directly on the stove top. The grate is also great for making toast. Thanks for the tips!

[@johngeyer2971]

Sure. Nice stove construction btw.

[@jonleone777]

You might think about adding some 1/8 inch plate steel on the inside walls. You will get better and longer heat transfer as well as eliminate side wall warping.

[@BrookZerihun]

at one point in the video, I moved my hands up to the stove to try and warm up

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Did you get warmed up?

[@thecontinuingadventureso-qs5zm]

Hello Sir, thanks for the video You have some useful tips. something I learned though practice is to light a stove from the top, that way the chimney heats up and starts to draw air before the main material catches light. This way You don't get smoke build up You see. Best Wishes, Jahmahrah

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks, Jahmahrah! I've always lit this one from the top front and it seemed to draw just great and light right up. I appreciate the tip!

[@johnhayes9437]

I like the way the jigs were used to produce a quality and presentable product, but you didn't incorporate a secondary burn system... . good ideas for an accurate way to produce holes and bends.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thank you, John Hayes! No, no secondary burn system. I was trying to keep it as simple as possible so it would be within reach of more people.

[@topsecret8751]

Have you possibly thought about putting angle steel on the outside of the lid to prevent it from warping?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Hi Topse cret. I did think about it but decided against it. It would have added weight and the latch forces the lid closed in any case.

[@josephdupont]

How about a pyrex bowl for a window

[@williamball7269]

I wonder why you didn't use the front dampers to control the burn? this would have made controlling the temo much easire and would probably resulted in even longer burn times?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Yep, I probably missed an opportunity with this burn. You'll see it next out in the woods and I'll do some more testing with the vents in the front.

[@kcjazz62]

Yes, the ammo can provides a 100% means of controlling the burn. The dampers, especially the lower one, should only be opened to start & get to temp, then close that off. The upper damper can then regulate temp. The damper should only be closed during high winds outside & when choking the burn at night (or during unattended day treks). Also, installing a spark arresting screen in the 'start collar' of the flue would keep sparks down & keep the arrester from carboning up with soot (the fire should keep the screen clean).

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I'll have to try those things next time I'm in the woods with it. It's been too warm to use it the past few weeks and the season may be over. I may have to wait until next winter to do much more with it. I appreciate all your comments, Sir Jazz!

[@turboman4736]

That is exactly what I was fixing to come in on that's why he can't control the heat he needs to shut that bottom one down you're making the super turbo heater same thing as if you were running a charcoal grill it's drawing too hard

[@turboman4736]

And take that baffle thing out of the top run it like a pot belly stove

[@matthewmorrone883]

On the ground is fine. I wouldnt worry about it but a cookie tray u der it would be great to dry wood in wet conditin where im from

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I'll be using a footprint in the teepee with a fiberglass cloth insert under the stove.

[@strugu4534]

Hello Tim, did you inspected your stove after this video? Did the angled steel protected the sides from warping? I do want to make similiar stove but it should be final version which should resist high heat.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I inspect it the last couple of minutes of the video. Definitely bolt the angled steel to the sides. The top will probably warp but not badly enough to stop it clamping down and sealing.

[@rronmar]

Yea, pellets have a huge amount of surface area so when heated they release a huge amount of woodgas.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

There's probably some way to take advantage of that with a secondary burn chamber.

[@rronmar]

TimCan The Jig Man yes but that requires heated air to work well and that starts to become complex(and heavy). Probably the easiest way is to simply burn less of them like a pellet stove does by using a feed chute(search rocket pellet stove). Or put the pellets inside a smaller holed container. A mesh basket works for burning pellets in a wood stove. Perhaps a mesh tube, Kind of a metal skinned presto log:)

[@jwfinkler388]

Interesting presentation. Consider incorporating a 2.5 fire bricks into your build. One on each side and 1/2 across the back. It will add a bit of thermal mass and reduce the heat warp of the can sides. Do you have any plans to add a baking drawer to the bottom to capture heat. Use wooden clothes pins to clip on handles. They can be removed when not in use.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions, JW! No plans to add a drawer bottom, I just don't have a strong compulsion to bake in camp.

[@jwfinkler388]

TimCan The Jig Man - baking may be a bit much but reheating cold pizza or warming MREs. Before committing wedlock I used to camp out in winter. Heated stones to warm shoes and bedding. I was a cheap sob, used 2’ sections of aluminum downspout as chimney, crimping one end to snug into another.

[@CrowdSurfingGeezer]

Just discovered/sub'd your channel. Love your stove build. I wonder if some sort of battery powered pellet auger would work for overnight tent heating . . . Thanks for the great vid

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks, CrowdSurfingGeezer, that's a great idea!

[@Lapeerphoto]

Could you have controlled (slowed down) the flew draw by closing the damper some? It appears this video is about a year old. I'll look through you video library to see if there's any follow up. Thanks.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

It definitely would have burned more slowly if I had shut down the dampers, kept the door closed and shut down the flue damper. I'll have to do some more video when I get it out in the woods again. Thanks!

[@matticerael5202]

Also, by using the Slim Potato Head design for pellet burning, the stove will burn for many hours, enough to get some sleep.

[@marcushennings9513]

Adding firebrick on the top before going to bed may keep it warmer longer also

[@alanpierson6464]

Forgive my ignorance, but I'm interested in building one and was curious why some of these I've seen have two different places to control air flow. Like there's one on the door and a slider on the bottom, I'm just not sure the purpose of having two vents. Great video, and I love the stove. Thanks

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Good question, alan. I wanted to be able to get maximum air flow into the stove. Thanks for the comments and good luck with your own build!

[@alanpierson6464]

@@timcanthejigman7932 thank you for responding, one last question of that's ok. I'm working with a 20mm can, is it unheard of to have a small opening somewhere at the top on the side with another door so that I could put a small piece of expansive steel in there to have maybe a small grill accessible from the side? Nothing big, just maybe about a six inch by 3 inch door, is that something that would affect the airflow at all? Thanks brother,

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I think incorporating a grill into it would be a great idea. I made an expanded metal grill for mine but I have to take the top off and the grill rests on the angle steel that's bolted on the inside. Doesn't the 20mm ammo can have braces on the sides?

[@alanpierson6464]

They do, which is why I'd only make it about 6 inches long, so as to avoid running into that. I'm more concerned with it being a carbon monoxide problem if I do that.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Carbon monoxide should always be a concern. I use a carbon monoxide detector.

[@judichristopher4604]

"Thumbs UP"

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks, Judi!

[@AMC-eq3jr]

Just came across you video. Could you tell me about the durability of the ammo can metal?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

It's pretty hardy stock. While the GI paint on it is fairly durable, I remove it because it isn't heat proof and will burn off anyway. Repainting the metal with high temp primer and paint has let my original stove continue to function going on five years.

[@johnhunter7541]

Try duro logs, see how one of them performs

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Yep, I had bought one but it was too large to get in the door of the stove. I planned this season to find a smaller one to try. Also, good comment about the dampers. That's been mentioned a few times.

[@johnlamarca9439]

Is your TP fireproof? Or at least fire resistant or is it made of nylon?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

It's made from a tarp from Harbor Freight. Their website doesn't say anything about being fire resistant.

[@QF2653]

Question: How long can you use these before they rust out?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I'm still using the one I originally made with dozens of uses on it. I do maintenance on it after every use to repaint. It's easier than making another one.

[@chrisinak6296]

What was the temperature underneath the stove?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I didn't measure it but since the POR 15 coating I used on the bottom burned off, it must have been in excess of 450 F. Next time I'll use the high temp POR 15. It's supposed to be rated to 1200 F.

[@SheepDogActual]

Do you provide your templates. I am going to make this a Boy Scout project

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Sorry, Thomas, I don't. They're not too complex or difficult though. I did take a still pic of the front of the stove and the screenshot of the patterns on 1/4" graph paper towards the end of the video.

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

it's probably warmer inside than the reading you're getting because you're leaving the temp meter on the frozen ground, you should hold it up inside for a long time for a better reading.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Is that how IR thermometers work?

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

I meant the one with the outside sensor you had laying on the mat for ambient air temp. @@timcanthejigman7932

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Ah, got it! You're absolutely correct, I was reading the temp at ground level on the tarp but that was deliberate. I wanted to know how warm it would be for sleeping. At one point I had aimed the IR thermometer towards the top of the teepee to see what the temp was up higher. There was a considerable difference. Thanks!

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

Way back when I was a teenager in the 60's we used to take my buddies arctic cat, go way up in the woods, build an "igloo", just a square with maybe 3' high walls, toss on some branches and a sheet of plastic for a top, and plastic on the ground and pine bows.... no insulated pads back then! But we survived!@@timcanthejigman7932

[@timcanthejigman7932]

My brother and I and our two friends would load up our backpacks and grab .22's and head back into the woods. Always in the winter and we didn't have very good gear so we froze but we always had fun!

[@chrisxx012]

You might check out Slim Potato Head on KZbin where he built an ammo can with gasifier that can run regular wood and pellets

[@jasonpowell3587]

So with not being experienced with this method for heating a tent, I’m wondering about the safety. If you did lite the stove in the morning to get dressed and cook breakfast, would it be safe to just close the stove off and leave for the day assuming it would snuff out in a reasonable amount of time, or would you need to accurately measure the fuel pellets and let it burn out? I’m guessing that sticks and such wouldn’t be as reliable as the pellets and would burn out. It’s not like a traditional fire where you would pour water on it to stop the burning. This was a long video, but sometimes that’s what it takes. I learned a lot through this experiment. Thanks for the hard work.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thank you for the comments, Jason. It was a long video and I thought about editing out parts but I wanted to show the experience of how long a load of pellets would last. Personally, I would never leave a fire unattended. Two to three pounds of pellets will burn for an hour and there will be embers and the stove will be hot for another 45 minutes or longer. If I had to, I would dump the glowing embers and put them out with water on the ground. You're right about sticks not being consistent in their burn time. Dry softwood burns up quickly but something like Osage orange (hedge) can burn for hours. I have some I'm going to test when it gets cold again. Look for another long video then!

[@davidesr1729]

nice stove, what diameter does the chimney?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thank you! The flue parts are 3".

[@davidesr1729]

Thank you

[@kennethacheson989]

to slow the burn, shut the door and close the air ports.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Good tip, I think it may have been mentioned a time or two.

[@teddythefourth2831]

Oh guys I'm super confused. Why does the stove get hotter with the door closed? I thought door open is more oxygen and more oxygen is more fuel burned and more heat. But he opens the door to calm the fire? Halp?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Have you tried asking him?

[@rachaelwyatt754]

I am not sure if I understand it properly but when I was a kid, I remember my dad banking up the fire over night and almost closing the flu completely. This had the effect of making the fuel burn a lot slower and therefore I guess a little cooler. just a thought.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I think that's a good idea. My plan is to do that next time I'm able to get out into the woods with the teepee and stove. Thanks, Rachael! -Tim

[@steppib.4598]

20°C and snow??? 😮😮😮

[@timcanthejigman7932]

It was in the shade.

[@johnlamarca9439]

Copper tubing... Hose clamps.... Hose like that used on automobile radiator.... Rubber hose around your bed.... Copper tubing in the fire... Secure everything safely... Water gets hot.... No pump necessary.... Temp difference will circulate liquid... Make sir there are NO LEEKS.. it will keep you warm without getting close to the stove...

[@timcanthejigman7932]

That sounds awesome! Does it work well?

[@kirkolsen1962]

Maybe less wood pellets would be the trick

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Could be. I'll try to have it out in the woods again this weekend and shoot some video so I'll try that. I have to remember to weigh the pellets to know how much is enough. Thanks, kirk!

[@johnsine7154]

Basically a stove like this is good if your on the bike or horse not good on yer back....just my humble observations...

[@timcanthejigman7932]

I think you have it correctly!

[@kendalkenny1843]

Those holes were provably There harbor freight is not the best things to start with....but for this ok I think......48 is way better then 21.....+ you have some coffee or h chocolate to drink....+ something warm to eat , real nice, just right.....

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Yep, buying a HF tarp was a mistake. I have a new heavy duty tarp to make a new teepee for this season.

[@kennethacheson989]

Install a damper

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Another one?

[@ReiMonCoH]

So, a 2” exhaust would probably work ok

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Probably. I've seen others with 2".

[@MFRiley]

2" exhaust pipe is not ideal. 3"- 4" is best for these tent stoves.

[@ReiMonCoH]

@@MFRiley Why?

[@MFRiley]

@@ReiMonCoH Doesn't create enough flow. There's a Princess Auto stove that has a 2" exhaust pipe, and it makes it very difficult to keep a good fire going. Keep in mind, this is all hearsay, I've never used a stove with a 2" pipe myself. But I heard this in a group full of very knowledgeable winter campers, and the consensus was clear - a 2" exhaust pipe is not big enough.

[@ReiMonCoH]

@@MFRiley air flow includes makeup as well as exhaust air flow. If the door and vents are closed, it doesn’t matter if it’s an 8” exhaust. Here’s the thing, and it’s not all that complicated. The wood (to draw enough oxygen to actually burn) requires X amount of air. The makeup or intake air openings can flow B. And C, of course, is the diameter of the exhaust. Now, while I am a licensed gas fitter and do have to calculate dryer exhausts occasionally, a wood stove functions a bit different. But, general, makeup (air intake) should be 25 percent larger than the size of the stove (exhaust) pipe. There would be that lower limit of X, but for a small tent stove or ammo can stove, I can’t believe a 2” exhaust (approx 3 in2) with a makeup air opening 25% larger (like 4 in2) wouldn’t supply enough oxygen to burn a stove that size just fine.

[@NavigatedChaos]

You're going to wake up to a collapsed shelter if you keep using PVC right in front of the stove. In your stove build video, at the end you show paper templates for the wood ones. Do you have those templates online?

[@timcanthejigman7932]

As I note in this video, the PVC only gets warm, not enough to cause a structural problem. The camera angle can be deceiving about how close the stove is to the pole. For the template, I don't have it online. I took a pretty good picture of it so you could pause the video and copy it onto graph paper.

[@kcjazz62]

One solution that works, but adds a little weight is using bannister hand railing or large diameter wood dowels cut to length inside the PVC. This adds significant rigidity to ANY PVC project.

[@chrisxx012]

That was supposed to be slim head potato

[@timcanthejigman7932]

You might want to check with him on that.

[@m998hmmwv7]

Nice stove.. Crappy tent lol.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Thanks. The tent design is solid, I just wish I'd used canvas for the material rather than a cheap tarp. It only lasted one season because of that.

[@m998hmmwv7]

TimCan The Jig Man Canvas is heavy but it holds the heat and in my opinion seems to keep the drafts out better..

[@judichristopher4604]

Great video... but would have been nice if it had been edited so it wouldn't have been so long.. 15 minutes top.

[@timcanthejigman7932]

That would have defeated the purpose of showing it unedited.

[@RASNOHIO]

put a fire brick in it

[@timcanthejigman7932]

Can you expand on that?