THE 1025R FAILED ME! THERE'S A FIRST TIME FOR EVERYTHING! 😔

You guys gave us some tips for snow removal on gravel drives. We set up our tractors to try out your advice: our 1025R has a rear blade rotated 180 degrees so as not to dig in. Our 2038R has a landscape rake of all attachments! For snow removal! We'll try to put them to the test today and see how they fare.
Products in video:
Dirt Dog Rear Blade: bit.ly/3YOxfJa
Dirt Dog Landscape Rake: bit.ly/3BXDZLd
Speeco Quick Hitch: bit.ly/3jsBDxc
Hitch Hangers: bit.ly/3VqUKoF
HLA Snow Pusher: bit.ly/3Wn6l9A
MK Martin Pull-Type Snowblower: bit.ly/3hMHlcT
Good Works Tractors is happy to be sponsored by Rim Guard Solutions! This is perhaps the most well-known ballast brand on the market today. Rim Guard goes right inside your tires, so it's out of the way, it doesn't freeze, and doesn't corrode. It's made from natural materials, so it's safe around livestock and pets if it spills out. Rim Guard liquid ballast adds more weight to the back side of your tractor improving stability, loader performance, and power to the ground. Find your closest dealer at bit.ly/3d0whX0
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ALL OEM JOHN DEERE PARTS @ www.247parts.com
ACCESSORIES AND BACKHOE BUCKETS @ www.muddscustoms.com
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This video is for entertainment purposes only. Good Works Tractors (Good Works Lawn & Power, LLC) cannot be held responsible for content found in any video. Always reference your owners manuals, use extreme caution, and proceed at your own risk.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Happy New Year folks! My channel is about experimentation. Most of the time, it works well. Sometimes it doesn't. Either way, I learn something and hopefully you do too! If you're in the market for tractor attachments, then give us a shot! We sell and ship all over the country every day of the year. Check out www.goodworkstractors.com LOOK AT OUR MOST POPULAR ATTACHMENTS! Speeco Quick Hitch: bit.ly/3NFC0yl Stump Wrecker: bit.ly/3GptiC5 VersaBracket Combo: bit.ly/3wUPrnl Snow Pusher: bit.ly/3NB4BVw Landscape Rake: bit.ly/3GpSlF6 Land Plane: bit.ly/38SDHcY Pallet Forks: bit.ly/38wRztu Grapples: bit.ly/3PNNYaZ WANT TO SAVE MONEY? CHECK OUT THE GWT DISCOUNT CLUB! Use code GWT at any of the vendors below and you will save cold hard cash :) I will also get a commission for the sale, so it's a win-win-win! USE CODE "GWT" TO SAVE BIG WITH: BUCKET BRACKETS @ www.jufabworks.com CUSTOM GRILL GUARDS @ www.5elevendesignz.com PTO QUICK ATTACH @ tractorptolink.com DIY HYDRAULIC SOLUTIONS @ www.summit-hydraulics.com GAME CHANGING GREASING SYSTEMS @ www.lube-shuttle.us/store TIRE CHAINS @ www.tirechainsonline.com PREVENT FLAT TIRES @ www.multiseal.us CULTIPACKERS & CRIMPERS @ www.packermaxx.com ALL OEM JOHN DEERE PARTS @ www.247parts.com ACCESSORIES AND BACKHOE BUCKETS @ www.muddscustoms.com CUSTOM TRACTOR FLOORMATS @ www.tractormat.com PROTECT, ORGANIZE, IDENTIFY HOSES @ www.outbackwrap.com BOX BLADES FOR ATV'S @ www.northwoodsfabrication.com HYDRAULIC SYSTEM PROTECTION @ www.hoseendchamer.com DUMP FROM THE SEAT MATERIAL COLLECTION SYSTEMS @ www.proteroinc.com POWERED SWEEPERS SWEEP UP ANYTHING @ www.sweep-all.com EASY WHEEL TOP LINK HANDLE @ www.tractoraftermarket.com TIRES, WHEELS, AND DUAL ADAPTERS @ www.millertire.com AMERICAN MADE CARRY ALL ON STEROIDS @ http:www.bigtoolrack.com THE BEST TOOTHBAR AND MORE @ www.heavyhitch.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT TRAC SEATS! www.tracseats.com SHOP: www.goodworkstractors.com AMAZON: www.amazon.com/shop/goodworkstractors SUBSCRIBE: kzbin.info LIKE: facebook.com/goodworkstrac... FOLLOW: instagram.com/goodworkstra... MERCHANDISE: stores.inksoft.com/good_works_tractors_merch/shop/home *Discount codes cannot be combined with any other promotions, offers, or deals! **I choose to sell some products through 3rd parties instead of stocking items myself. Know that I will receive a commission if you choose to purchase through certain links. Thank you very much for your support! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Good Works Tractors (Good Works Lawn & Power, LLC) cannot be held responsible for content found in any video. Always reference your owners manuals, use extreme caution, and proceed at your own risk.

[@plumber802]

The 1025R didn't fail you Courtney. You were using the wrong implements for the job. A rear or front snowblower would have handled that much snow. I have a rear mount Frontier SB1154 snowblower on my 1025R and it does well in the deep snow we get here in northern Vermont.

[@stevencross8937]

my FEL plow worked fine for moving snow after a 14" snow dump. rear ballast was helpfull.

[@winkdinkerson7190]

Don’t quite understand with all the tractors at his disposal, why choose a boy to do a mans job.

[@stevencross8937]

@@winkdinkerson7190 the 1025 can handle that amount of snow with no issue. i've been doing it with the same machine for the last 2 winters with up to 14" of snow at a time.

[@winkdinkerson7190]

@@stevencross8937 understood. That wasn’t the question I posed. When you have a stable of tractors that possess more power, weight, ground clearance, and traction - with bigger implements - why choose to use the smallest tool in your carpenters bag?

[@rox9975]

Experimenting is always good. It’s good for people to know that you may not want to go with the smallest tractor if you’re fighting lots of snow every winter.

[@frederickburns1739]

Courtney, I am a retired farmer and have experienced BIG SNOW a time or two. When you take subcompack or compack tractor you are giving up ground clearance and weight!!! I know the last blizzard I spent six or seven hours in the cab of my tractor to open up the farm! And when that was done I still had to feed cattle, hogs and chickens. Then I got too feed myself. WELCOME TO THE CLUB OF FRUSTRATION!!! :-() MOTHER NATURE WILL HAVE HER WAY!!!!!!!!!!!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Hehe yeah got to show folks the reality of those limitations today! Thanks for watching!

[@bxb590]

Last year (2022) we took one snow fall with 48 inches and another with 82 inches in Buffalo, New York's snow belt. Did your "BIG SNOW" beat that?

[@bladewiper]

Some times you learn more when things go wrong, than when they go right. This time you have shown what does not work. A true learning experience.

[@BeingMe23]

I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying - Michael Jordan

[@OdinX316]

Exactly and learn from others is this video's great poiint!!

[@agjohanneck4420]

If you want to use a back blade on gravel get a 4 inch pipe the same length as the blade, cut a slit the width of the blade and cutting edge, the length of the blade. Slide it onto the blade above the cutting edge bolts. Use a couple tie down straps from the ends of the pipe to the Lock pin holes to keep the pipe from sliding off the blade. Works great on gravel and grass. Use steel pipe, PVC ware's out sooner.

[@martyh299]

Courtney remember this. You may be struggling with what you thought would work, and it doesn’t go quite as well as you expected. But, your struggle helps so many people. You show all the issues, uncut videos. And because of that everyone else can try something different. Your efforts and your channel is a tremendous asset for so many folks! Never get discouraged! In the end you are a blessing to someone else!

[@jacqueschagnon2278]

Thanks for your patience and doing this , as it was clear that the snow blower would of been a better choice all along but you did took the time to froze on the tractor to show how these implement cans somewhat get the job done . I got the front snowblower and back blade (reversed) and that is the perfect combination for my need :-)

[@GoodWorksTractors]

I like to have fun, thanks!

[@ranger6x660]

A plow or bucket on the front and a rear facing blower on the back has always worked well on a tractor. I use the back blade to scrape snow off the driveway that has been driven over and is packed down. One of the reasons I purchased a 2025R over the 1025R was for the ground clearance.

[@scotts1703]

I am in southern mi I have a 2305 jd forerunner to 1025 it has never failed me I use the bucket and I have made a 6ft rear blade mount on my fork bracket turned around with plow shoes put on due to using on dirt angled blade over box

[@martindery4270]

This is why my family ( they live in Canada) use a traditional snow blower. Had you have a snow blower and went in reverse you would’ve been successful with the 1025r or any sub compact for that matter. That’s why the majority of snow removal companies use that set up over there. You can tackle 4 or 5 feet of snow easily. 😊. Nothing is ever perfect. But I enjoy the struggle….. as always you videos are great, because they are real….

[@frankmoreau8847]

I live in the Okanogan and that is what I have here. Snow plow for light snow, rear facing snow thrower for deep snow and drifts. Snow berms are so high already that I now have to plow both sides to the center and blow it away with the blower. With the snow moved away from the edges like that, I can drive backward with the mirrors, much easier on my lower back that way. I'm 72 and my body doesn't like to twist around that much.

[@gregbohannon9366]

Hey being a person that's not faced their first snow with their newer tractor being able to push snow. I really appreciate you videoing this even if it wasn't a total success. Because I get to witness someone that knows their tractor and has the equipment get out there and allows me to watch. you don't know how much I appreciate that. Thank you!

[@TheJimmybud]

Great video, I love how you show the real struggles to every job you do! That way everybody knows things don't always work out the way they are supposed too!

[@earlyriser8998]

ditto

[@chadjurgensen73]

Thanks for the video! These tests are great examples to others who are trying to find the best solution for snow removal. From my experience, long driveways can be troublesome for snow pushers as the snow just keeps piling up in front of the pusher, creating more and more resistance. I installed UHMW on my bucket in combination with a snow pusher to clear off my concrete driveway/parking area. This has been my 2nd year using this setup, and it's been great. I couldn't agree with you more on your thoughts regarding snow pushers. The simplicity of it is great! No maintenance, no moving parts, and reliable. Hope you and your family had a wonderful Christmas and a Happy New Year.

[@joeymomma518]

One of the reasons I watch your channel is BECAUSE you show failures, what works, versus what doesn't. Its all HONEST information and it definitely helps people see what different attachments can and can not do. Thank you so much for sharing this video.....even with the limitations of what y0ou tried, it was still a fun video to watch.

[@RussW.]

Another great video showing pros, cons and the struggles! I opted for tracks on my Ranger and a plow set up. Based on seeing what tractors do and don't do, I think it was definitely the right choice for me. And the heated cab is the cherry on top!

[@shonhaines1995]

I was interested in the rake results. Thank you for doing this. Another great video.

[@jimcwerenz9185]

Thanks for experimenting and trying. That’s how you learn. Thanks for being honest and passing the good and bad results. We learn so much from you. Especially us who are new to this. Keep up the good work.

[@Matt-kf4bw]

I too have a gravel drive and I have found that when it comes to snow, there just isn’t much that you can do to keep from picking up the gravel. As good as I do, I will always find a small pile sitting in the grass after the snow melts. Honestly, my loader bucket and a grader blade, turned the right way, or a plow on my UTV, do the best. Just keeping the blade of the bucket just off of the gravel so as to not dig in. But NO perfect means! It just is what it is when plowing a gravel drive. LOL! Or moving way south! LOL!

[@bobnarrus3218]

As always Courtney, great video! It is important to show what doesn't work and why! Thanks!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thank you Bob!

[@D70340]

Great video showing what not to do. I guarantee some of your newer viewers learned something here. You might think of these as failures, but actually, you`ve helped others out by seeing what works and what doesn`t. As for myself, i`m in my 60`s, i`ve tried everything there is to try out there, blowers, buckets, pushers, blades, you name it, i`ve probably done it. I live in snow country, so i`ve had many a decades trying all kinds of things and methods, tools and equipment. It ain`t never easy. I`ve gone back to a front bucket, and a 6ft rear blade every time after trying all kinds of stuff. I never empty the bucket either. I just use it like a snow pusher to push the snow until i can`t no longer move it forward, then i back up, turn to the side of the driveway, dump the bucket, then move in for the next run down the driveway. So far, this method has worked the best, for me. Everything has its limitations. My bucket & rear blade, loaded tires, wastes the least amount of time out there, again, for me. No chains either. I have run chains many times thru the years, i simply just found them to be more of a pain in thee ass than it was worth. Blizzard`s or not, we gitter done. Some days faster than others. Its winter, and its unpredictable. Choose the winter weapons carefully, lol. Most of all, dress properly for the cold, and BE safe!

[@rwc2504]

I like that you try different attachments and give honest feedback to your followers. I will say while watching this video I just kept thinking about that big warm orange cab tractor sitting there waiting to clear the snow.

[@jonpaq1962]

I agree with the snowblower option. 400’ gravel driveway here in Maine. Love the channel. Born and raised in Saginaw Mi.

[@PurpleCollarLife]

Happy New Year! You're 100% right about the importance of ground clearance.

[@jimmerrithew453]

Happy New Year, Courtney. I live in Canada, so I've grown up with snow. The long, fence-lined driveway is your first challenge. When moving snow, it needs to go somewhere. A snow-blower would be the right tool. When you push snow, you are clearing a path to improve the traction for your wheels. If you try to pull snow with a rear-mount blade, your wheels are driving on packed snow, reducing traction. Plus, if the snow is deep or drifted, you can bury the tractor, as you learned. My lane is about 80 yards long. I clear the snow with the bucket on my 2025R. I can't push snow more than 20 yards, so I dump the snow in piles, which I start building about 10 yards from the side of the lane. As winter progresses, the snow piles grow too high to dump more snow onto, so the piles gradually grow toward the laneway. Thanks for the great videos you and Chris create. He does a good job of recording all of your adventures.

[@brianbull5447]

Like others have said, this video was extremely helpful to everyone that sees it!! Thank you and Happy New Year!

[@trcass1]

great video. that snow looked a little deep for the little JD. i have a 1026R i use here in southern Maryland but we dont normally get the snow you do. I love it and it does pretty much everything i need it to do. In snow i've tried the landscape rake, a rear blade and a box blade. I normally just use the bucket with edge tamers on it. push it as far as i can then pick up a bucket or two and dump it. i have a gravel drive too. appreciate you showing the struggles of snow removal. It was 66 here yesterday and will be 55 and rainy today after last weeks 2 above. Gotta love mother nature.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Yeah I wouldn’t normally wait for it all to come down and this just highlights the reason why. If you can stay on top of it, then it’ll handle it fine.

[@charlesfirstenberger8615]

Happy new year! I have a 1025r and have tried a loader mounted blade and a snow pusher and both were horrible failures and are now in the weeds along the fence row. I've found the best setup for me is a rear mounted blade with skids attached to keep it off the gravel. Then the regular dirt bucket on the loader. I run the loader low to push a path for the tractor then the 60" blade scrapes the snow to the side. I don't get in trouble often but when I do, having the dirt bucket up front allows me to push myself back out to get another run at it.

[@porterbrass]

Nice video. This is a great video on so many levels to understand the limitations of a sub-compact. It’s also good to see what a bucket and grader “can and can’t” handle. My opinion is the secret with snow is to blow it. Otherwise, it’s like trying to move around sand. It doesn’t have anywhere to go except in front or behind you- getting bigger and bigger with every inch of travel. I understand the dilemma with uneven grade on your driveway. I think if you could get the height correct, a blower would have powered through anything Mother Nature dumped on your drive. It was great to see the capability of a bucket or grader option. Thanks. I loved the video.

[@TheJimmybud]

The snow pusher is fine up to a certain amount of snow and then a plow has to take over in my experience!

[@bobnarrus3218]

That is my experience as well, I like a power angled plow best, but I suppose a blower would work well too.

[@stephaniegriffith9844]

I have a sturdy Homestead hydraulic plow on my 1025r with a backhoe in back with my rear R4s bumped out 1.5 in with wheel spacers and I was able to plow 500 foot gravel drive with similar amount of snow as on this video. It took some time but plowing the snow off to one side then backing up a few feet then plowing it off the other side worked for me.

[@foonus406]

I know this situation very well, I've got a 1962 3010 with a loader w/ rear wheel drive, a 2320 with a small front blower, and the Deere 320g skid steer. The only one capable of moving snow we've seen is the Skid steer, running the Ag tires (too small to ballast) with clearance less than half of a tractor. Its been a real bear to clear the drive, I've gotten stuck 2x already this year with it sliding off the road surface into the hard pack on the side and high centering (the ditch is angled up). Unfortunately with the Deere you can't open the door with the snow plow on and raised up at all, so you are stuck AND stuck in the cab. Only way I have found to get out is to raise the blower to the limit of your hydro hoses and try to use it as a counterweight to rock yourself out, if you fail to pay mind to the tension on the hydro hoses they will tear and you are really dead in the water. Gets very difficult when you have slid up against the gate or fence. I only saw one board knocked off the top of your fence in the video so you didn't do too bad! Key I have found is not to leave more than a couple inches of snow, or the tires will break traction. Running a blower on the front is great, but you can't use it to push yourself out without chancing damage to the blower. I have been using the 82 HLA snow bucket on the skid.. Keeping it in float mode and the front tipped up just enough not to pick up gravel. It clears enough snow that your wheels won't break traction behind it. Drawback with the snow bucket is it will leave higher ridges on the sides so you get more drifting next snowfall, where the blower doesn't. Thanks again for the video!

[@TomKD0QKK]

I used to use an old Ford farm tractor to clear subdivision streets when I worked as a laborer. I always used a blade that was spun around and pushed it with the tractor in reverse. The tires were on plowed road that way. With a two wheel drive machine it worked well. Of course, it sucked working backwards. I still use a straight blade on my 3043D on my gravel roads but I pull it forward. The road is well packed and it does a good job.

[@Golfboy-ze3le]

Good video! I really like to see what does not work with really deep snow. Thanks for the efforts and posting the video.

[@diggingwithdylan]

Appreciate the experimentation. I think it shows that if you can get your hands on a snowblower that is a great way to go for larger snow falls. Tremendously satisfying work too. I think the blade/pushers make more sense for 3-4" or less depending on how heavy the snow is.

[@mikeburgard6992]

100% agree with you on R4s. They last along time is about the only plus. I had the short R4s on my 3046R last year and they are now Galaxy Garden Pro XTDs which are a massive improvement, but still no substitute for clearance. This winter is reminding me why I’m putting the Nokian’s on the 4520 as soon as they arrive…an extra 1.5-2” in clearance over those crappy R4s too. Clearance, weight, and displacement are still generally king.

[@williampaap2098]

I only live on a 1/4 acre here in Northern Cal. I'm getting to old to clean the berm from in front of the driveway. Sometimes it can be 5' tall by 8' at the bottom when the county plow comes through clearing the road. Takes hours to clear with my snowblower. R4 tires seem to work quite well for me. Doesn't matter what tires or chains you have even big CAT loaders w/chains have problems on ice. I bought a Branson 2515H, Rim Guard in the rear, 400 lbs. worth. All combined with loader, it weighs in at just over 4400lbs. It's amazing what 25 little horses can do. Keep up the great videos.

[@erice9536]

Gravel driveways here. If we got a lot of snow several times per winter, I would want a front mount blower on my 1025R. Since we only get a rare storm that dumps on us like that, then I have a front mounted blower on my nearly antique 1978 simplicity 12HP lawn tractor that gets pressed into service as little as possible. :) Less invested in that dedicated tractor than even the cheapest rear blade and it just plain works. If you have a lot of snow like that, you have to get it completely off the driveway (with a blower). IMHO, if you want to push huge piles of snow, then you need a lot more mass to move it with. 1025/bucket works just fine for my needs with a more typical 4" snowfall.

[@chrismichels4616]

If you are going to use a rear blade (which I do), turning backwards to prevent it from digging in also reduces the efficiency of it windrowing the snow. The snow will just build up on the blade and you have to use a steeper angle on the blade to get it to roll off. As you mentioned on the end, skid shoes will work better with the blade forward. Snow lube on the blade helps but doesn’t last forever. Speed helps. As someone else said, the snow has to go somewhere. If you need to clear right up to the fence on the sides I also think a blower will work better.

[@looloo6322]

I enjoyed the video, it reminded me of my farm life in Delaware county NY, 3-4' snow storms, -20, -30 was the norm. I moved to Arizona in '05 and now use my JD 3038 on my gravel driveway, and for landscaping.

[@73leo73]

Front mount snow blower I have found to be the best solution over all the other options by far.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

I don’t think anything would have worked on the 1025r in that lane. The muddy frozen ruts you couldn’t see where a huge factor. The tractor fell into those ruts and couldn’t do anything. Not steer and it had much more resistance trying to move in general.

[@73leo73]

@@GoodWorksTractors true but with a snowblower there is no real pushing like a plow since the blower just throws it away without much actually "pushing". I have r4 tires but I got diamond pattern rear chains which I find puts more chain to the ground since they can't fall between the tire lugs. Anyways thanks for the video

[@KB-kd9pt]

@@GoodWorksTractors I was curious about a front mounted snowblower as well but if your getting stuck in ruts not sure that would have worked out anyway. I do agree overall from a personal preference that I would use a front mount but they are extremely expensive. Love the videos man! I live in Cadillac and will be looking for a used 1025r in the spring so I will be reaching out! Happy New Year

[@johnking1428]

Enjoy how you test out these different methods for snow...I don't hae snow and not since the snow /ice storm of 1993..we did have freeze weather during Christmas..and now 70 degrees and bush hogging weather... keep the videos coming..

[@MIcruiserGUY]

I did the backwards blade trick on my driveway and it seemed to work fairly well. Once the gravel froze, I flipped it around and used it the normal way. I also had the most angle set to unload the blade faster, and set my top link as short as it could go to reduce the "scooping" angle of the blade as much as possible to keep from digging into the gravel.

[@GPOutdoors]

Happy New Years Courtney! I'm thinking you kind of knew what would work at the end of the day. LOL! U got a whole lot of snow there! I have tried using the rear blade backwards several times and I find that it often floats over the snow as much as it pulls it. Wish you the best of success for this coming year and all the best to your family!

[@MJADoingStuff]

Great Job Guy's showing the different options of tire, ballast, and implements. That is a beautiful property. It is a lot to maintain but so worth it . I still like the Summit Tractor combo setup perfect size, power and balance. Thanks for the video and Happy New Year!!!😁👍🚜💨☕

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thank you sir and Happy New Year!

[@51rwyatt]

I live in central Maine and we get sometimes over a foot in a storm and sometimes quite wet snow, and the combo that hasn't let me down is my 55 HP 5500+ pound tractor and rear snowblower. I chuck some gravel before the ground freezes but the setup is pretty foolproof for me.

[@rodbagley1686]

I appreciate your honesty. Thanks . Front snowblower in deep snow seems to beat everything. Snowpusher on a short distance or if h ave have big equipment is great. Yes you lose the loader function with the front blower but you don't need as much traction because you don't drive over a foot of snow. I we have over a foot of snow I use Mt little Cub Cadet with the 42 inch snowblower. My 1025r with the 60 hydraulic snow blade is fun but kind of a pain if I have a lot of driveways to do. The JD bucket almost the same as a pusher. Have to dump it all the time. All fun just the same!

[@Lackieestatesfarm]

We plowed driveways for years around here (eastern Canada) with a scraper behind a 135 massey Ferguson. Pushed most of it in reverse, but in light snows we faced the blade forwards and you could windrow it easily, but a full size tractor has a lot more ground clearance than a 1025. Try playing with your top link length to get a better result. It really helps with the digging effect and can really help get the snow rolling better

[@belindakt]

Very informative! We hardly see any snow, sure looks cold lol yes a very true Statement about the r4 tires. They will get you in trouble in a heartbeat

[@bradleyphillips204]

Good video. Glad you demoed these implements to show. My lane is half blacktop half gravel. In snow under 5 inches I don't even bother doing the gravel but I had problems with a blade in 3 foot of snow. I have a garden tractor (gx345) with 260 pounds on the back. It took me over 7 hours total to clean up. I need to upgrade to a bigger machine of course but sometimes a 2 stage blower is much less effort and even on stone I've floated the blower above the gravel just to get the worst of it off so that I could drive a car over it and not get hung up. I keep looking at a bx2380 and 1025r or John Deere x700 series for 2 acres. I need something bigger than my gx345 or 318 that I currently use in case we get the big snow. Even if you don't use it often a snowblower on you're tractor is just good insurance.👍

[@rickdavid1795]

I watch your videos, and I learn something new on every one of them. Thank you

[@Vaessen13]

Thank you for experimenting! I have a front blower on my BX and a rear blower on my MX in S.W. Ontario 🇨🇦. Snowblowers are my primary snow remover and im getting a snow pusher for the MX. My BX can blow 3-4 ft drifts but it is hard on the machine. I like what Outdoors with the Morgan's said, "snow pushers are for parking lot types, front plows are for laneways."

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Lanes with fences on both sides doesn't really seem like a good long term solution for a plow...front or back. You'll just pinch yourself in. Need to throw it over the side or push it down the to the end.

[@marksjunction69]

I learned about hitch hangers, so thank you. That is a lot of snow for those size tractors and tires. I use a 3520 with a 5’ back blade and the front bucket. Our last snowfall was deep and I used just the front bucket with the large ballast box on the back. That extra weight cleared the snow with no problems at all. I think with the amount of snow you got an intermediate pass would have been ideal as you mentioned. We live in Calgary Canada and just got back from Revelstoke BC snowmobiling in the mountains, where they average 10 metres of snow annually. So much fun!!!

[@tcmits3699]

You need to look into carrying a 3pt V-blade. I made my own because an angle blade just forces the tractor to veer sideways. A V-blade keeps the tractor running true, while running at a higher speed, it really throws the snow. Speed is necessary for a lighter tractor to break through those snow drifts. Great video, love the fact you try anything and everything. A V-blade also works great in reverse as a v shaped box blade. Thanks again for sharing your "so called failures" whenever you learned something it's not a failure. Keep em coming!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

They exist, but not for small tractors that I can find. Plus, the bigger ones I have found are incredibly expensive, no one would buy them. Random interesting note along the lines of snow equipment. A customer wanted me to quote him a hydraulic loader mounted blower that runs off of a hydraulic 3 point/PTO driven power pack. $28,000! Lol, some items are available, but I just won't bother advertising them. Outrageous.

[@tcmits3699]

I agree, I made mine from a "too light-duty" 6' scraper blade that got bent, very easy to make, cut in half, splayed out to 5'. Can be converted back in less than 5 minutes. I just bought a heavy landscape blade though, when a flat blade is needed. A light duty V-blade is very handy to have. It looks like the companies that make your implements are high quality, maybe run the idea by them, can't hurt. Good luck and stay safe.

[@cvdk7141]

Loved watching this 😂😂😂 I’m 60 now and only live 45 miles nw of you, today you lost a battle with snow next week you kick butt, the R4 tires are a good idea but just not for everything like regular tractor tires are for mowing lawns 😂 it’s the outdoor r experience you had that was fun😅. The big kabota in the back of the shop would have probably worked better and left you with more of a mess in the spring, frost in the ground is our friend around here , keep the good work

[@markschmaus5580]

I like the looks of the Summit! With a cab and my current snow plow set....I think that would be an awesome snow plowing machine!

[@rockycreek6665]

I’m a 74yo first time tractor owner. Live in west MI, lots of snow. Did a fair amount of research before dropping the bucks. Duplicated Gordon Potters (GP Outdoors) rig, minus chains, and never looked back! Oh…I do it in shirt sleeves!

[@jimpirtz7620]

I used to live in Billings, Montana. We got some pretty healthy snow storms over the years. I used to plow out my pasture so that I could get around in my pickup without getting stuck.. I had an old Ford 8N which at first didn't have a bucket on it just a blade on the same order as the one you are using. Got stuck quite often but learned how to get out of it. Worst part of having a blade on the back was sometimes the snow would compact and get pushed under the tractor to the front of the nose. God was that fun. Well I finally got smarter and added a hydraulic bucket to it and that made it a tractor. If I would get stuck all I had to do was push the bucket down on its lip and roll myself out of the deeper snow. My wife convinced me that a better way to not get stuck in snow was to move to the south and that's what we did. Haven't been stuck in snow for going on 8 years now. Been real nice...

[@andymackay3059]

As always great video. I think the number one thing you did wrong when trying out the rear blade was trying to pull through the snow rather than push it. The other disadvantage was trying to use the blade backwards which only gives you one angle position. Most makes are like this but I've seen some that give you as many options angling in reverse as forwards which means getting the snow out of the way quicker. However the one item you didn't try yet have in your arsenal is the snowplow that mounts on the loader. In my opinion that's the best option for plowing the drive. If the snow gets too deep a rear facing snow blower would be your best option considering you have fences on both sides limiting your ability to push the snow out of your way.

[@Guitaural.]

Hi Courtney! I run a regualr aluminum snow plow on my 1025r and coming straight out of the garage or barn with it has worked _really_ well. I wonder if those pushers are just too darn efficient and don't let enough snow out of the sides. Before you know it it's just way too much weight for a small tractor. I stay in my plowed areas when I back up, then take another run. Never been stuck or overwhelmed yet with the regular snow plow blade and backing into your plowed-area method. When I get on the gravel I like to leave about a 1/4" of powder so I don't dig up the gravel. With that long lane of yours I could see it being more of a problem though - the 1025r likes you to dump the snow off to the side every 30 yards or so when it's that deep. Tougher to do on a really long lane. Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!!

[@davidgingery8927]

Hi Courtney, The back blade or even the rake should only be used for pulling the snow when you only have a couple of inches to deal with due to the buildup it causes behind the tractor. Normally you would use them to clear by pushing backwards which is a pain as you know. As far as your gravel, I would say to set the shoes on your snowblower or pusher so that your scraping edges are about an inch or more above the surface. This will leave your gravel intact and let the surface freeze so you can drop the cutting edges back down to clear the surface from then on. Also, if you don't want to leave the inch or more you left after your first clearing, then go back over it with your back blade or rake canted to the right (or left) and if they don't have shoes or wheels you can control them with your rear hydraulics and leave your gravel pretty much intact. It's a little more work but I think you'll be more satisfied with the finished product.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

It pulled six inches of snow at the end of the video. Did really well with that!

[@pender57]

Informative and entertaining. That snow piled up against your oil pan probably kept oil temp very low and viscous too.

[@SuperAdam1313]

painful, but very informative. thank you for sharing

[@charlesscott4513]

I have a front mount snowblower on my 1025, works like a charm, although wet snow is difficult. Run the chains on the front tires, helps your steering.

[@jpjp3873]

Keep on experimenting! Happy new year!

[@captainprairie5790]

Same storm in the Dakotas, I had 18" of snow, more in some places, my 1025R rocked with just a bucket and tiller on the back for ballast. I pushed snow and piled it up with zero problems! Great video, thanks!!!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

It works fine when not dealing with frozen deep mud ruts

[@captainprairie5790]

@@GoodWorksTractors those I didn't have! I like watching your videos to see what attachments I may need down the road and general tractor stuff. I also used my old Farmall H with farmhand loader which worked really well but the 1025 is so easy and fun to use. Thanks again for all your content!!!

[@davee4434]

Great video. I use front snowblower and rear blade in my area Western Canada. I was curious about landscape rake. Seemed ok as you said hard pack or frozen gravel it would work better. Thanks for sharing.

[@LTVoyager]

After 40 years of snow removal, this is what I currently believe is the way to go depending on what you are clearing. Long road or driveway, say 500’ or longer - Snow plow with power angle. If you get many really deep snows, say 2’ or more, then consider a V-plow. Short driveway - Plow works well here also, but if you get lots of deep snows or heavy drifting, a blower can be more effective, but much more expensive to buy and maintain. Small parking lot - Snow pusher works well here for 6” of snow or less. For deeper snow, I will take a plow or blower. Large parking lot - Plow is my first choice, but a pusher can be nice for final clean-up. Blower is generally not effective as it can’t blow to the perimeter of a large lot and you end up blowing the same now twice. Personally, I consider pushers, unless you are talking a huge pusher on a large CAT front-end loader, to be basically clean-up tools or for 6” snowfalls or less. Anything more than 6”, and I will take a plow all day long. You can push straight ahead with a plow, but also move snow to either side. Just don’t have that versatility with a pusher. Now, if you have a 40,000 lb CAT front-end loader with a pusher that is 4’ tall and 12’ wide, well that is a different story. 😂

[@GoodWorksTractors]

What about a 800' lane with fences on both sides? I'd say blower to clear it over the sides or pusher to send it to the end of the lane. Otherwise, you'll just build up banks and quickly run out of space to plow it.

[@LTVoyager]

@@GoodWorksTractors Yes, a blower is best for that if you get a lot of snow. If you get less snow with some melting times in between, as is now typical here in northern PA, then a plow works fine as long as you plow fast to move the snow through the fence and not make high windrows to pack and freeze. The biggest mistake I see people make plowing is running too slow. I realize compact tractors are limited in speed, about 9 MPH for the 1025R if greentractortalk is correct. Funny, I could not find speeds listed on the Deere web site which is a major fail. However, if you can go 9 MPH and the surface isn’t full of frozen rocks, then plow as fast as you can go. I see way too many people plowing at 2-3 MPH and that almost turns an angled plow into a snow pusher. The difference between plowing at 5 MPH with my pickup and plowing at 20 MPH is absolute night and day.

[@BobsOutdoorActivities]

@@LTVoyager Exactly. Get the snow rolling off the plow. That is why the plow is also curved.

[@briannelson4493]

Courtney I’ve moved snow with a 4020 JD a 4030 JD a 4835 GEHL skid loader a 2020 JD with loader and back blade, and now a Kubota B 2650 with front mounted snow blower and back blade and it works the best no chains, it has a cab and I overlooked my M farmall and our D 7 cat I feel your pain and frustration. Have a great new year

[@davidjabs7359]

Versa tires made a huge difference on my 2320 with 48” front blower, loaded rears and full ballast box. Stone driveway that we pack first snow makes front steering traction troublesome in the past w r4 fronts. This year w versa fronts made a huge improvement so far! Thanks for advise. Located in Old Forge, NY so we get snow!

[@jackmertens886]

Great video, I had a 2720jd with 60in pusher and 60in rear blower, worked great, I live in northern Ontario, and had a long driveway, with lots of dri.fting across my driveway, but still had a few times I had to bring in large loader to open driveway do to heavy snow.

[@melissasmess2773]

I live in the Rocks District, needless to say one of the reason I bought the Yanmar SA424 because it has huge tires and awesome ground clearance, 1199 pound lifting capacity and best warranty in the industry. I bought European tire chains for my front tires because there is so little weight on them and almost impossible to make it turn on a snowy bank. Happy New Year everyone!

[@stevenhajko913]

Courtney. Great video by showing us how it worked for you will save us time from trying it ourselves ! I think next time try a hydraulic. Or electric V plow on front. Off the ground a little or on plow skids , and keep the rear grader blade on 180° like you had it and I think that will work better for you . I would like to see that . I have a mahrindra 3016 with a 61/2 ft. Straight blade and a 5 ft. Rear grading blade, and it works great for me ! But the V plow would help you cut through the deep drifts and keep going to the end to open things up . just a thought !

[@hughhead9079]

Have fun in the snow! Thinking you'd sell a lot more landscape rakes if you show the Dirt Dog 72" with the rear wheel kit on it versus without. It is night and day difference on gravel driveways to avoid "hopping" and "digging" and love mine after a couple years use! It solves the problem of digging into the driveway and would pull snow well with a bit of hitch weight to push the blade and tires along the top surface. Not sure the wheels would be as good going backwards in snow though... they'd hop over any ice or whaterver that gums up in that direction. Happy New Year y'all!

[@t.conner4798]

That looks like so much fun! I actually miss the snow.

[@Noah_E]

Ground clearance matters when clearing snow. The 1025R has less than 8 inches. I don't have a lot of nice things to say about my dad's Ford Jubilee, mostly because it took an hour of maintenance for even ten it worked, but it was a great snow clearer with a rear blade. 13 inches of GC and AG tires meant it never got stuck

[@GoodWorksTractors]

I agree Noah, lack of ground clearance was a huge factor.

[@andrebisson7375]

Great video...In Northern Ontario we get a lot of snow at times and like most in North America we are seeing larger weather swings. My 1025r using the front snow pusher is fine for short lengths. The rear box blade also is great in cleaning up. Your application with long drives with fencing on both sides and the depth of snow would be suited for a blower. Like you indicated there is to much snow for the clearance of the 1025r. Its not the tractor but the circumstances it was applied to. With your beautiful property I would be investing in a 3 series cab version with a front or back reverse snow blower. Love your videos and the effort you put into making the informative sessions so we can all learn. In your case having such a large property is indicative on using the right tool for your situation. Andre..Viewing from Sudbury Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 Keep does videos coming.

[@robertwalter981]

Watcher for years, love the content always, but also love simple low key jazz

[@looneyc8070]

I use my landscape rake for snow, but, as you said, I use the wheels. Makes a big difference.

[@OdinX316]

Actually for doing a gravel drive I liked the rock disturbance, it would definitely help traction! Those R4 must have ballast in them and that would help then use the chains on that setup and you'd be good 2 go! Thanks for showing the rest of us that because we won't have to suffer through you did it for us!! THANKS!!

[@robandnell4305]

With my many yrs of plowing snow with anything you can think of, in those condition, nothing will beat weight or a snowblower. I have found a backblade backwards riders up om the snow. Good video on different strategies. Much snow makes chains a must just so you can get unstruck.

[@gregberthiaume8665]

I have a 1 series with a snow pusher and its not the setup for a long run like that. No matter the size of machine, you can only push so much so far. For that stretch you need a front mounted plow. Or a bigger blade with a better angle and back your way thru it so the tires stay planted and the frame is out of the snow. You can always use the MX!

[@LTVoyager]

Yep, pushers are for parking lots. Plows are for roads.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

That lane with the fence on both sides is a tough spot

[@LTVoyager]

@@GoodWorksTractors It would not be so tough with a plow.

[@6point5]

East coast Canadian here. I have the HLA1500 on the front and a rear facing snow blower on the back. If I can't push it, it's gonna need to be blown out of the way, and the front facing snow blower won't work on a sub compact (you couldn't drive over the snow if you tried, even with chains on it). We regularly get 12" + come down with two foot drifts at parts.. no way you could get a sub compact over the snow to blow it with a front facing blower. Interesting to see the blade / rake though. Would be good for small snowfalls I suppose if that's all you had. Thanks for testing these types of things out.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thanks Adam, I do love that setup!

[@david935plum]

Yeah, you were running out of good weather at the new place with all the projects on the list. Someone else said this, but having a drive prepped before the snow flies makes a big difference. We’ve not had much snow yet in eastern Nebraska, but the drive at our new place is 1/4 mile long and has two years worth of traffic and maintenance done on it. Big crushed limestone on the base (2-3 inch rocks) with 1/2” and smaller graded over the top. Planning on using a rear blade with skid shoes on the 4066r, plus the loader bucket as needed IF it ever really snows here again. I spent quite a bit of time with the land plane getting the drive in pretty good shape during the fall.

[@Matt-xt3ri]

I use a rear facing blower and the loader on my subcompact. Always a great setup to tackle any snow. Especially the deep snow we get up here in the NY lake snows

[@jeremyletourneau143]

Nice video. With that much snow a blower is the best choice. With your setup you were testing would of worked if you hit it before you had so much to push around. Thanks for all the good footage...

[@stevencross8937]

had a couple storms so far this winter on a gravel driveway. I have learned that having all three FEL attachments, bucket, plow and snow pusher all have their different uses and benefits depending on the depth of snow. I'm sure if i had the muddy ruts you have I'd have more issues. only thing I wish I had is maybe a snow blower.

[@carebearstare]

Thanks for the video very informative 👍

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Glad it was helpful!

[@veteranprecision6532]

The rear blade trick definitely works better for finishing up after plowing. It smooths your tire tracks and ruts and packs the last bit of snow down into the gravel to freeze up.

[@CT_Yankee]

My experience with New England snow storms taught me this: - Snow removal with the FEL bucket is a lost cause. Have no experience with a snow pusher and really feel it's not worth the expense for my situation. - Snow removal with a rear blade driving forward is also lost cause UNLESS the snow is a loose powder that the blade will easily kick off to the side. If it's more of a sticky wet snow, forget it - it'll all build up in front of the blade until it reaches the undercarriage of the tractor - then you're screwed. The best use of a rear blade is in reverse - IF your neck muscles can handle the position your head needs to be in. - I've found that with my truck or with my BX-2380 the front blade works best for early season snow as long as the skids are set so the blade edge barely skims the high spot in any ruts. - Once the the gravel drive has frozen solid the front-mount 55" blower is best for 3-4"+ snow falls. I set the skids so that I'm leaving an inch or so of snow and I'll clean that up after with the blade. - As far as chains go, I've learned that they are a PITA to install on the tractor. It's often easier to remove the wheels, install the chains, and remount the wheels. Which is okay for the BX but I wouldn't want to attempt that on my L2850. For most snow falls the chains aren't necessary UNLESS it's a substantial amount of sticky, heavy, wet snow. - Just sharing my experience for the benefit of others.

[@Summitoutdoorproductions]

Best thing for gravel driveways is to not plow right away. Try to pack in a few inches and get a solid base before plowing. This does not work though if you get dumped on first thing. Then you have to go out and dig up the gravel. It sucks. I know. Constant battle and you’re right the freeze thaw cycle seems to be nonstop!!! Just can’t be winter.

[@fyrman9092]

Typically around the Great Lakes, the snow that falls is light and fluffy. However, the moisture content is a big factor when it comes to removal.

[@stevenmillard5115]

Late thought here, wasn't sure why you were commenting on being cold on this experiment, then I remembered, when you cleared snow in the past in the old neighborhood, you were in a cab, not open station. I am open station exclusively here in Northern NM and found the best solution to being warm during the 3 or so hours of plowing was insulated coveralls - Carhart's or Walls are my choice. Warm Sorrel's and a hooded sweatshirt or at least a scarf around the neck to keep the blowing stuff out of collar area works well - keep warm and chive on Cortney!

[@bradmeacham6982]

One issue in deeper snow with your "pulling a reversed rear blade" methodology is that you do not get any "rolling" of the snow along the blade as it delivers it sideways. If you look at a genuine snow plow blade, they are much taller, and have significantly more curve in the blade's body. This gives them a much more efficient way to move snow.

[@TheJimmybud]

Another thing I will do in big snow is divide my plow area in half to make it easier then, fine tune it at the end! If you started in the middle of the shop and went in opposite directions the pusher would have done better and smaller bites.

[@zetajno]

Definitely recommend a front mount blower. I live up in the Keweenaw and have a 1023e with a 54 inch front mount blower and had no problems clearing our drive and a large dog run that is a mix of gravel and grass. We got 36 inches with this same blizzard. On gravel just lower the shoes on the blower and clear like that until the gravel freezes. I clear about 75 x 200 feet and it takes about 30 minutes with a large snowfall

[@chrisblair3414]

A front mount snowblower with the rear blade for cleanup would have worked perfectly. I've been using this combo for 20 years with a x585 and now a 2038. Works flawlessly in the UP of Michigan. Try it you'll love it.

[@randalmiddleton8068]

Keeping it real with GWT... great video too. Deep snow is challenging and seems to take multi attachments to bust through. Speaking of traction, I wonder if anyone ever put tracks on the rear of a compact tractor ? Happy New Years weekend all, take care and be safe out there.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

I saw tracks on some Facebook forum recently. Looked amazing!

[@kevinnelson1386]

@@GoodWorksTractors tracks do not work on compacted snow!

[@foonus406]

Will chime in from perspective of a skid steer.. Researching tracked units the consensus seemed to be that metal tracks are worse than the ag tires in the winter, especially on ice. Next option is chains of course, but when you do a tight 360 with those on they almost always break, limiting the turning radius of the skid and requiring straight approaches. Leaves you with option of over the tire winter rubber tracks, or what some folks are swapping to is the SnowWolf WolfPaws Snow Tires, though the profile suggests to me that would be more of an advantage on pavement than on gavel.

[@stevenmcintosh3303]

In that amount of snow, and with the long straight lane, I think the snowblower is your friend. Wish you had a front mounted version to sell.

[@earlyriser8998]

the lane looks made for the snow blower...ride over the top and blow the snow away....that was your best solution you showed this week and you could back down the lane if you had to

[@GoodWorksTractors]

More than that though was weight, tread pattern, and ground clearance. That’s what I learned.

[@benjaminstockton3917]

Nice video buddy appreciate the channel HAPPY New Year

[@davidmartin7660]

With the two huge storms we just had in NY a pusher box was pretty useless after a while. The loader bucket to break down drifts and piles let me then PTO blow the snow and get it away from my gravel drive. Pushers are fine for smaller amounts of snow, but eventually they too can get overwhelmed on long run drives unless your tractor is pretty large and you have relief areas to deposit the snow. I run a BX2670 with Edge Tamers and 48” blower unloaded R4 tires (yep they suck).

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Pusher and rear blower is my favorite combo.

[@akjaydub6620]

I live in Valdez, Alaska, where we average about 300 to 350 inches of snow a year. I have a small farm; I clear snow from a large driveway; I clear out to the barn and around the chicken coops. I also have to keep the snow cleared from alongside a greenhouse and a high tunnel. I have a John Deere 3320; the best setup for me is a PTO-driven three-point snow blower and a loader bucket up front. I also have a large snow push to dress up the driveway. The snow blower is critical to get the snow up and off the side because the small tractors don't have enough weight to push much snow. Using a bucket to shuttle is fine for tight areas but is much too cumbersome for larger areas. Plus, you quickly run out of room to stack the snow. Watching you struggle with that drive was painful; it would have been so easy for that little tractor with a snow blower. I use the PTO mount on the three-point because it is nearly 10 times cheaper than a front mount hydraulic. Also, the rear mount snow blower where you drive forward only works in snow your tractor can drive through. I regularly clear snow that is several feet deeper than the top of the blower. Also, here we run the blower a few inches high at the start of the season, and then once we get a nice frozen base, we can drop the blower right down and get a nice smooth surface.

[@Veritas1992]

As a former Wisconsin resident of 15 years and a 1025R owner I couldn’t fathom taking on a storm like that. I remember as a kid having to go out every few hours to snowblow or shovel the driveway to keep up with some of the snow dumps we got. I worked at an airport and we had to do some minor snow removal and we had a 20 series John Deere that was barely sufficient.