The Basics of Car Audio Speaker Replacement -EricTheCarGuy

[@Quattro_Camacho]

On my 2006 altima, I had to remove my whole back seats and take out the rear deck just to get to my speakers! But while doing that I did manage to scrounge up 4 dollars and 50 cents in change underneath the seats

[@Damnthatcrazyyyy]

I have to take the door panels of just to see my speakers

[@YpDondada]

Quick question bro was the speakers 25w and is it alright to put something in their that can go up to 60w and still be cool

[@ghost-carnage8964]

That's shifty. I'm glad in my 96 tl the speaker covers just came out with screws in the trunk then the speaker just unscrewed and pulled out.

[@maruchan66666]

Could've just went through the trunk though?

[@BigRalphSmith]

Just a quick note to add to the information in this video. When replacing any speaker, one of the things you need to check closely is that your new speakers fully "clear" your housings, covers, and wires. You have to be sure that the cone gaskets (the part of the cone that attaches it all the way around the speaker frame) doesn't rub against or make contact with anything. As the speaker operates, if anything is in contact with that foam or paper gasket, the normal vibration of the speaker will rub a hole in to the gasket ruining your new speakers. This doesn't take long to happen so be extra careful to check for anything coming in to contact with any moving part of the speaker.

[@metalmoto]

If you need to determine the polarity of a old unmarked speaker. Simply use a 1.5 volt battery, such as a AA, C or D battery. Use a few pieces of wire, and connect it briefly to the speaker. If you have the battery connected correctly, that is, battery positive to the positive on the speaker. The cone will move outwards. It the cone moves inwards, the polarity is reversed. Simply mark the original wire or connector to the positive from the old speaker, and this will determine how to wire the replacement speakers. As they usually only connect one way. Note: use only a 1.5 volt battery, as a higher voltage battery may ruin the speaker.

[@jrobert1595]

You are absolutely right, I hope more people read your comment as this method takes all of the guess-work regarding polarity and can save a bunch of time later. Your comment needs to be in bold letters, and thanks for saving me the typing of this correct method!

[@heyitschinoable]

J Robert lol i knew this too little trick im a little into aftermarket car audio

[@vendetta1306]

metalmoto genius

[@butteredbiskit3497]

Neat. Never thought of that

[@urieldelteco]

You can safely go up to 5v, just fyi.

[@henrietn]

Sounds way better. In my opinion, installing low cost speakers is a huge improvement over the factory 90's garbage speakers. Well done sir

[@maxsnts]

Hi. Small tip on the wire connection thing... cut one shorter than the other (and the reverse on the connecting pair) that way, even if the isolation fails, they wont short out.

[@dennisranck1613]

I have been watching your videos for several years now. Imagine my surprise when I saw a car audio video with ETCG. Years ago, in a former life, I did do a fair deal of car audio. I am watching some videos, because I need to replace the speakers and the head unit in my wife's 2005 Hyundai Elantra. And, in the near future, I anticipate upgrading the head unit and the speakers in my 14 Silverado. This is going to be more of a beast, because of the head unit integration.

[@therealuncleevil]

Eric, when you are having a hard time determining the polarity of wires, get your multimeter out to measure DC Voltage, turn on your radio and hook up your test leads. If the Multimeter is reading negative voltage then your red (positive) test lead is connected to ground and your black test lead is on the positive wire. Switch the test leads and your multimeter should read positive voltage meaning your red lead is on positive and black is on ground.

[@JayCeeMax]

I like the step-by-step nature of your replacement. You inspired me to finally tackle the rear door speaker removal replacement of my 1992 Toyota Century V8 import (JDM). Thanks EricTheCarGuy.

[@tigerjag4811]

13:05 killed a 12” kicker comp once and was sick. Local stereo shop tech suggested a patch of silicone and they bumped for many years...eventually sold em. Now wanting em back hence why im here now. Good work eric

[@GSixV]

Comments are like from half a decade ago, I'll leave my 2020 mark here my speakers will arrive today wish me luck!

[@thezebiano]

How did it go?

[@ericthecarguy]

This may help if you're looking to upgrade the speakers in your ride. The Basics of Car Audio Speaker Replacement -EricTheCarGuy

[@shaunapack]

Kicker is a good brand in audio anyways. I personally use Pyle or Boss Audio myself.

[@osmogr]

Loose wires make crappy connections? Solder them wires up!

[@Saint1533]

***** So you use junk?

[@alanmaier]

jerryboy white I've worked on pro audio and high-end home audio. JBL is no longer the brand it once was... one more premium brand from the past being slapped on cheap goods. Seems to be a common thread with anything and everything Harmon.

[@therealjammit]

Speakers are 90% of the sound. The amp is the other 90%.

[@shadowdevil666]

Usually I didn't do a lot of the repairs you do on your videos but speakers and radio i've done a lot of in fact I did those on pretty much every car that i owned and a lot of my friends (protip: NEVER EVER DO THOSE KIND OF MODIFICATIONS/REPAIRS IN SUB ZERO WEATHER I've had a horrible day when i tried myself.) and i must say you know your trade Eric and you know it well

[@jeremiahn4455]

that clock on the wall; swaying his hips is so distracting lmao

[@rubenngulo209]

It's Elvis

[@dasungeheuer3873]

It's O.K. to look son, just don't touch. Thankyouverymuch.

[@scottphillips2420]

where did you get your Elvis clock?I love it!

[@joshujsk]

I hope all is well I feel like God laid this on my heart for me to send you this message! The Bible verses that changed my life which was Acts 2:36-43. I just wanted to say that Jesus Christ can restore your life and that is a promise according to Acts 2:39, and God loves you. If you’re in need of a good church near you here you go to google & type in UPCI Church locator a man named Gabriel helped me find the church that I went to before I moved and they led me to the church that I do go to now! God bless have a great one 🙂. I prayed for you I hope all is well 🙂

[@treowayne]

Here is a better way to check the polarity of your speakers: Cut off the speaker connector with a little bit of wire. Strip the ends of the wires. Attach the ends to a battery ~12V or so. A drill battery works for this. If you have guessed the polarity correctly, the speaker's cone will move OUT. Otherwise the cone will move in. Connect the wire color that you now know is + to the + terminal on the new speaker. Repeat for each speaker. This will not work for tweeters because they don't really move enough to be able to see.

[@nickfennell2940]

man people give you more of a hard time for the videos you make and nit pick everything than are thankful for the help they give for the diy'er. love the videos eric I have learned a lot from them. keep up the good!

[@leviwilsongu]

Solid video! The only thing I would add to the video is disconnecting the ground cable from the battery at the beginning. Eric's video is how to install...not debating the best quality speaker! Everybody has their own opinion and is entitled to it.

[@keithjohnson7311]

sigh being the bass head and car audio fanatic i am it feels so weird watching you do this but still always good to watch ya.

[@pjf222]

Eric, when soldering two wires next to each other like this, it is better practice to offset the connections, so they aren't side by side, it helps to make the connections more discrete, but also give added protection from the two shorting out if you end up with a failure of you insulation.

[@aychmorgan21]

Mr. Eric, you're awesome. I'm looking for a cash car to do these types of things on for a hobby. Your videos are extremely helpful and informative, and your cool laid back personality is icing on the top. Keep up the good work!

[@rustybui3173]

Great timing posting this Eric. I was about to install rear speakers in my 2000 honda odyssey. This video is going to help me a lot thank you.

[@s0nnyburnett]

Gloves were a good decision, this was the dirtiest job yet.

[@liamherman3072]

You've activated my sarcasm-senses with this comment

[@Haloruler64]

I did this on my 1996 Corolla recently. But I replaced the wimpy 4" speakers in the front with 6.75" speakers. It was hell, I needed new brackets from a custom audio shop. But I did manage to use the OEM plugs, which luckily weren't attached to the speaker like yours were. And it all fits under the OEM door covers, so it looks 100% stock and has some nice bass!

[@alanmaier]

Well I believe it's official, this video is getting more response than the one about the funky but very cool Traxion 2-700 Pro Gear seat. Same number of views - guess that's just that we like to see Eric come to the rescue when our cars are falling apart!

[@overnightthoughts]

I just installed these speakers in my truck about a week ago. Spend the money on a 400 watt amp.. the speakers sound so much better with some extra power running to them!

[@TheDracfink]

to fix the plastic pieces that were broke and cracked for your back speakers you can use a soldering iron to "weld" the plastic back together. works like a charm. hope it helps and keep up the good work.

[@davidthomas5987]

Excellent video Eric... thanks! I just finished a similar upgrade myself. Installed a set of JBL GTO speakers in the front and rear of my 2003 Silverado SS pickup with the factory Bose System. The JBL speakers have slightly larger cones made from a superior and stiffer material and a butyl rubber surround with larger magnet motors and sound way better than the crappy, although higher quality stock Bose speakers. I was amazed at the improvement in sound quality and headroom in the stock system for a minimal payout in green backs! Those JBL speakers may not be the most popular choice out there... but they are a great value and a once huge name in the industry. I just love it when a plan comes together! Thanks for the video... Rock on!

[@davidthomas5987]

The JBL GTO speakers I installed were factory size.... 6" front doors and 4 x 6" rear doors. The design of the speakers use a slightly larger cone than standard for these sizes however. Also the Bose system was 2 Ohm.. and these speakers are true 2 ohm compatible... which is why they work in my situation so well... otherwise they wouldn't reach the volume levels of the factory speakers. For a simple speaker swap, they made an amazing difference in output sound to my ears. I love them. Sure maybe someday I'll pop for some JL Audio components and amps, sub enclosures etc... but for now these are GREAT...! I highly recommend them if you're on a tight budget! All 4 speakers were less than $120.00 on Amazon....... Great value!

[@Emblurr420]

Jesus where was this 2 weeks ago! lol. Great topic choice Eric!

[@ElectoneGuy]

Eric, just noticed that you installed the tweeter facing forward on the rear left speaker and the the tweeter facing the back on the rear right.

[@ericthecarguy]

You are correct. I had to switch them. I didn't include that because I didn't feel it helped the video and I wanted to keep it tight for time. Good eye.

[@FizzlNet]

Good job on the shrink tubing! Man I hate it when I take something apart and there's a sticky mess of half-melted plastic electrical tape. I always have several diameters of that stuff stocked so I can use it whenever possible instead of any kind of tape.

[@LMacNeill]

Very informative -- thanks... The only thing I would've done differently is I would've epoxied the cracks in those mounts for the rear-speakers... The bass will be even tighter if those mounts aren't able to rattle at all.

[@ericthecarguy]

I agree. Thing is, I don't think the new speakers would have fit as well if I did. They were in there kinda tight as it was. That's one of the reasons I didn't do it. The other was because I wanted to be done so I could go home.

[@LMacNeill]

Oh, I get ya... Didn't realize the fit was that tight -- the epoxy would probably just break anyway under the strain if you tried to force the speakers in there.

[@billboyle7866]

Thought to stop by and review this video while I'm installing new rear speakers in my 1979 TA. Original 6x9 rear speakers are shot so new speakers are necessary. With 2nd gen F-body cars (Camaro /Firebird) the factory did little to provide sound deadening material on the flimsy package tray sheet metal where the speakers mount. I've already added Dynamat to areas on the metal shelf to reduce vibration and resonance. Insulation is going on top followed by the new package tray. Listening to music in the future should be considerably better than it used to be...a very good thing.

[@AdmiralXyes]

Thanks a lot! Going to do this myself soon. I'll be honest, it's hard to tell how your music sounds through the camera, but this helps tremendously.

[@JacobFrey]

That's a nice easy upgrade, Eric. Loved the video.

[@minicorbett]

Eric, nice video, thought I would add a tip, if you want to know the polarity of speaker wires, once you chop off that plug, plug it back into the speaker and hook it up to a battery and see which way the cone moves. if it moves outward you have your polarity correct, but if it moves inward you have your polarity reversed.

[@iTzDaNiiLo]

That Vigor is in mint condition Eric. Very nice video

[@DairyAir]

Simple tip to figure out which is the hot wire to the speaker is a $2 test light. Clip it to a wire, touch it to metal, and turn it on. The one that lights up is positive. Tip #2, a few dabs of red forma-gasket will greatly reduce chances of future rattles of after market speakers. The WORST part of new speakers in old vehicles is the mystery rattle. First to places to look are the license plate and the gas cover. Easiest fix is $20 bluetooth speakers from Menards, lol.

[@AlxZordon]

I have to take issue with one thing you said, Eric, and that's with polarity. It's not just important that the speakers be wired the same. Positive has to go to positive, and negative to negative. If you reverse that, the cones will try to push the sound toward the rear of the speaker rather than toward the front. The result will be overall bad sound, especially on the bass. See you Saturday.

[@TheShawn006]

Hey Eric, Don't know if this is a big deal, but look at timestamp 19:33, your speakers are inverted. The tweeters in the middle of speaker has the large one on the top on the driver side, and on the bottom on the passenger side. ;-)

[@ericthecarguy]

Yep, I switched them but cut that out of the video to save time.

[@joshy052]

Your rear speakers seemed so much easier to replace then mine, haha. I had to take my whole back seat out to access mine.

[@BrandonHill1234]

1:43 - 2:00 Looks like Elvis is happy you putting new speakers in ;)

[@overthere5815]

Thanks fam this video is probably one of the most helpful on KZbin

[@farerse]

good work to remain the sound / installation near "stock" . i wonder what my speakers looks like now when seeing yours!

[@danielpindell1267]

Great video Eric. I always watch your video's. You make them informative to get a general idea of how it works, how it's design or very similar. I have a 04 Kia Rio and I upgraded just the head unit and was blown away how great the stock speakers sound compared to using the old head unit. Since then I have decided to not to upgrade my speakers. BUT if I ever do, I will re-watch your video to make sure I have my infor in order. Thanks again, Sincerly, Dan ☺👍👍👍

[@gavinpickens8542]

I use connecters that crimp on the factory wire that plug right to the aftermarket speaker and don't have a bunch of wire hanging out. You can also get a plug to wire up aftermarket stereos and use it as a guide to find pos and neg on your speaker wire. Then just pull it off and put your factory radio back in. But what do I know I've only hooked radios up for 15 years.

[@danr5105]

The thing with soldering (many good things with soldering). If your application is a place where the wire is moved around a lot (even if just from vibration) the solder point on the wire is where it will break (it is the fatigue point). There would be nothing lost here if good quality crimp connectors with ends that can seal out environment conditions (sort of a water proof, air proof crimp connector, they are not too hard to buy) is just fine. OH, use a good crimp tool,a tool that crimps a wide area. A good crimp tool manufacture is "Thomas Betts" they make some really good crimping tools. A little side note for all that hate on crimp connectors. In the aircraft industry all that you are allowed to use are crimp connectors. You can see how with aircraft vibration induced failures are much more of a possibility

[@AspectOfTheStorm]

I actually install sound systems / remote starters professionally. The only kind of connections we use is solder + heat shrink. Before I was hired, I was asked to solder some stuff, just to show good technique, and then I was asked to break it. I took both ends of the wires and yanked as hard as I could. It broke, but when I looked at where it broke at, it was immediately after the solder, meaning my connection held up, the wire didn't. Proper soldering is the best possible way to make a connection. You just need to be sure the solder really soaks into the wire and you don't overheat it when soldering to avoid burning the conductor

[@dominicfong6341]

Remember when I was working in a shop manufacturing fuel analytical instruments just fresh out of high school. We were required to use crimp connectors, then solder it, finally fitting heat shrink tubing on top of it.

[@lineartechbd1600]

I have owned four honda accords and have upgraded all of the speakers to pioneers because pioneers are cheap and sound good. Anyway, I have some advice for you guys. The old speakers use a wire harness plug end. You can remove the plug end from the old speaker by drilling out the rivet that holds it to the speaker basket then de soldering the wire. Once it is out, you can solder its spade lug to the new speaker's spade lug then plug the original speaker wire harness into the new speaker. Great thing about doing it that ways is that you never have to cut the factory wiring. If you need to remove the harness plug end from the new speakers, just desolder it. I have done this many times and my car is still factory so i can go back to factory speakers by just plugging them in if I wanted to because the factory plug end is still in the car. I also think modifying the speaker is way easier than modifying the car. You can mod a speaker on the desktop but you have to mod the car outside in the cold.

[@IntenseBlue318]

When I replaced my speakers I bought some adapters that plugged into the original wiring and had the spade connectors on the ends already so you don't have to mess with the factory wiring. It made things a lot nicer to install.

[@aaronncollier96]

your clock in the background at 2:00 is pretty awesome

[@thesilentobserver93]

Reminds me of when I upgraded the speakers in my CRX. Before my mother bought it, and my sister drove it to hell and back and then it winding up with me in the end, the previous owner had installed two Sony speakers in the doors and two Pioneers in the back. The speakers sounded like crap when my mom had it, which led me to wonder how the hell my sister could stand listening to them during the time she drove it. Once I wound up with it, those, along with the head unit, were the first things to go. Replaced the Pioneer head unit with a JVC (Pioneer cd player wouldn't eject CDs and had no auxiliary input), and moved on to the speakers. The Sony speakers in the doors were blown to nothing. Torn as could be and worthless. So I promptly threw them away. The Pioneers, on the other hand, were covered in dirt and sounded like crud for the most part, but worked. So I moved them to the doors and put a pair of $80 Kickers in the back. This way I at least had some sound in the front. After a few months, I wound up purchasing a cheap pair of Sony speakers from the Wal-Mart where I work. They were around $30, and sounded better than the Pioneers, so those wound up in the doors. I still have that setup in my CRX (also added a $99 sub since then for some extra bass), and I love it.

[@slickrick3010]

That wall clock at 20:00 is cool!

[@robertdavis6708]

Eric, a great video. You learn something everyday. Getting ready to resound my boat and your video will help. Thanks for letting me review it. One other thing? Ever ate at the Houston?

[@brianpiper3188]

When I replaced the speakers in my truck, I just ordered the wiring adapter with the factory connector on one end and the blade connectors on the opposite. Not as a sales plug, but the Pyle 3 way speakers work well, for only costing $17/pair on Amazon.

[@AngusAndBubba]

I can see this video as an opportunity for dynamat and other similar sound deadening products. i've been told it makes the world of difference for rattling parts from road noise, and speakers.

[@fredflintstone1547]

i like how car guys often drive some of the most random, obscure car models. when would somebody apply silicone around the speaker base and what for?

[@ScottHenion]

I unsolder the terminals on the old speaker and solder the new wires to it. That way you don't need to modify the factory harness and can always go back. I have even gone as far as swapping the terminal board from one speaker to the other ;) You can check the polarity with the fader. If they are out of phase, the bass will be less when both sides are on and more when just one is on.

[@BoogieDownProduction]

Man my mind is blown that a 93 stock radio would sound better than an aftermarket headunit. Either headunit was really poor quality, installed wrong, or the settings were off. Just doesn't make sense IMO

[@ESDI80]

The OEM headunits in Honda and Acura cars are made by Alpine which is why they sound good. :-)

[@Cragified]

Just because it is aftermarket doesn't make it better. Since the 90s automakers have used much higher quality audio units that are designed for both the speaker placement and the interior volume of the vehicle.

[@MattsMotorz]

A lot of the time those stock radios have awesome sound, people just get rid of them because they can't connect their phone to them and all that jazz. Many of the times what happens is the person buys the cheapest stereo they have, which has pretty bad sound!

[@ElectoneGuy]

ESDI80 They were made by several Japanese electronics firms, not just Alpine.

[@BoogieDownProduction]

Still doesnt matter IMO. Now days aftermarket radios are all pretty good unless you get a crappy brand. I recently bought a JVC unit for $60 from bestbuy with USB, bluethooth, aux. Stock radios have so little power that even if they are made by alpine or whatever brand, it wont make that big of a difference when it comes to sound quality

[@BigDave71]

I just changed then door speakers in my Durango and that music sounded just fine. Must be my new Alpines.

[@65armadillo]

Nice down to earth informative video. You're easy to listen to and follow

[@erniemartin654]

Hey Eric, why not pull the factory fastener off the old speakers? That way you don't have to mess with cutting or splicing the factory wire harness. It's a bit of work to fabricate, but would yield the best results IMO.

[@josephpeoples3910]

Pretty good video Eric. Especially for what it was. My only suggestion would have been to attempt gluing the crack in the rear cradle, but I doubt it would matter much. When selecting speakers and head units, I find the guides at Crutchfield to be pretty spot on. It's easy to check there to find out which speakers and head units fit, which need modification to fit, and which require major build up.

[@Tr3llz101]

Keep the great videos coming. Always good to learn.

[@SuppaflyZSM]

Why not use the old factory connector off the dead speaker and solder it to the wires from the new speaker so you can have a totally factory setup?

[@RealCadde]

The connectors are most likely crusty and that would mess with the sound quality.

[@ericthecarguy]

Those connectors were a part of the speakers and would not be easy to remove and reuse.

[@spelunkerd]

Yeah if it was possible to use connectors it might make future removal of the inner door panel a little easier. But I can see how that might not be as easy as it seems. And aftermarket connectors might cause a voltage drop or resonance issues.

[@BobBob-dx1tv]

EricTheCarGuy I have done that many times it's not that hard & saves you money

[@HeinzP100]

Great video. Nice job. I'm surprised that you didn't throw some J.B. weld onto the rear speaker mounts.

[@skate04ever1]

when I took off my old speakers which are not working, it's already like this in 12:17. Does that mean the new speakers I'm buying are going to be plug and play?

[@busuttilj1]

I love that intro tune! Great videos, watch every single one on this and etcg1! Support from Melbourne, Australia!

[@Dcs-Brasil]

Very good! Eric knows everything about cars including sound system!

[@rollingtones1]

Nice job, except I would use some sealer or foam gasket material behind the speaker to get an airtight seal between the speaker and the plastic speaker support. I also solder the terminals to the speaker lugs, after having a customer's fail on me once back in 1982.

[@MoeInteractive]

Love this video, thanks for being awesome, thanks for being you! Highly informative!

[@irregularmana6216]

I saw this video and two more and it helped me to install new speakers in 96 Honda

[@amitron9636]

Great video, by the way. Saved me so much of headache and time. Once I watched your video I knew what to expect, what to look for and how to prepare before I even touched my old clunker's doors. Simple tips like rolling the windows are valuable help. Thank you so much! Shades of young George Clooney, there, Eric? :)

[@daisymouri2302]

This is one of the best upgrades you can do! My generation, the super oldies, really likes good, clear music! Frank Sinatra anyone? Who's Frank Sinatra?

[@liveleaky7571]

Daisy Mouri fuck you

[@ericrighteous2553]

Hi Eric, my name is also Eric a technician in Qatar I have being following your videos for about a year now . Great work. But with this video in knowning the polarity to tell which of the wire are positive or negative can you a multimiter in doing that ? And how?

[@DR0CK]

great video! in terms of electrical signal for speakers there is no quality difference between solder and crimp. solder if preferred by manufacturers as it makes tinier components possible. A crimp connection will always standup overtime way better compared to solder as solder is weakened over time and becomes brittle and will suffer from vibrations unlike crimp. to each their own though.

[@andyboys5669]

Love that Elvis is dancing in tune with the music.

[@drwombat]

since you were soldering anyways was there a specific reason that you didn't just remove and solder the OEM speakers connector to the aftermarket speakers? you could've kept the connector on the harness side and left it in a separable fashion reusing that stock connector you discarded with the old OEM speaker

[@based_will]

Google has always been my friend when figuring out car speaker wire polarity. Always a rainbow of colors goin on.

[@annieworroll4373]

Huh. How did I not find this when I replaced the speakers on my car a couple weeks ago? Thankfully it was pretty straightforward, the salvage yard had several cars with compatible speakers so it was pretty easy. Turned the bottom part with the magnet on the rear speakers into magnetic parts trays. Sadly, the front speakers didn't have a bowl section, just the frame.

[@YoJoeEX96]

Awesome video Eric!

[@TheExtra40414]

yea, i also had crappy blown out OEM speakers when i had my Vigor. I replaced all of them with some decent Pioneer. Pretty cheap and much better sound after. The rear speakers where so completely gone i was surprised it even made noise at all.

[@HondaFan1989]

When you were using the power screwdriver with the new speakers was making me real nervous. Lol!

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing job Eric :-)) For speaker polarity, connect a 1.5v AA battery to the speaker and watch which way the cone goes, you want it to jump out from the frame, battery + is speaker + :-))

[@weasel2htm]

You beat me to that comment! :D

[@BoogieDownProduction]

Could also look it up on Google. Pretty easy to find if you have a popular car

[@zx8401ztv]

weasel2htm He he :-), mad minds think a like lol :-), or uxwbill :->

[@zx8401ztv]

BoogieDownProduction Very true mate, i didnt have the internet millions of years ago so ya had to make your own fun ha ha :-))

[@ElectoneGuy]

Old installer's trick and works great.

[@ColonelSandersLite]

So question: Why didn't you epoxy (or something) the cracked rear housing? If you're setting out to fix sound issues, it would seem to me to be counterproductive to leave an obvious potential source of rattle unaddressed.

[@googlesucks5318]

You can also solder spades on the end of the aftermarket speaker pig tale wire on the bench. Then push them into the factory plastic connector. You may need to trim down one of the spades to fit into the narrow receptacle.

[@BigDave71]

I kept watching till the end and yes I can now tell the difference

[@mndlessdrwer]

I'd recommend pioneer over kicker if they're within a similar price range. The A series of pioneer speakers are really good for the money.

[@francistheodorecatte]

For installing speakers with OEM connectors, I strip the connectors off of the old speakers and solder them onto a pigtail for the new speakers. Much cleaner and easier to reverse/upgrade.

[@ericthecarguy]

The old connectors were a part of the old speakers so that really wasn't an option.

[@Twilliams60142]

I have the exact same speakers in my 2004 Durango. They sound great for not a lot of money. What kind of soldering iron did you use to solder the wires? And the heat shrink tubing attachment for it? These would come in handy for me to update my amp.

[@Wowluvn101]

As you saw on the other sides speaker the connection to the positive on the speaker is bigger and the negative connection is smaller just for that reason. So you don't mix them up.

[@mattdias3412]

You think you had a tough time with the back speakers Eric? Trying doing the same thing in a 99 camry solara, you pretty much have to take apart the whole back seat to gain access to the speakers.

[@vikingvic]

Id tape those rear brackets together. OCD guess. Cool vid Brohim.

[@gobloit4473]

Big difference going from a single cone speaker to a three way speaker in the rear; now you just need to put in some in-line filters for the front.

[@iSpAnKiT]

I dont use any door cards #Lightweight #racecar Great video dude

[@robertmonhollen4091]

I bought those same speakers last week. Waiting on the 6x9s now.

[@MrJRusty15]

What was that tool you used to solder the wires and compress the heat shrink? Looks like a killer soldering gun / heat gun.

[@BigAdam2050]

Wonder if Eric is every going to do a cheap ass paint job video. Like a rustolium / rolled on paint job or something for the Vigor.

[@ericthecarguy]

Nope. I like it the way it is.

[@BigAdam2050]

Ah rightyo then.

[@AutoTuned]

The vigor looks to be in really good condition for its age anyways

[@AutoTuned]

I would like to see at least how you would go about painting a panel on a car

[@BigAdam2050]

If you're talking rattle cans, Might Car Mods just did a video on that. Just Eric seems to be more belts and braces in things, wanted to see a cheap car repaint vid.

[@tonypalomino4253]

I love watching your videos.

[@axelasdf]

Do you ever have to match the ohmage? Max power delivered when you match the load's impedance...

[@strakill]

Your tunes have to sound good in your car, good video on basic replacement.....most people can't figure it out.

[@travyb1401]

Kicker is a decent brand set of speakers Eric, nice job. Me personally I love JL Audio and some Alpine but u did a good job on this.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Great tutorial!