The Best Way To Finish Your Basement

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

We now have merch! Go to homerenovisiondiy.com/pages/shop to order. Members, make sure to check the community post for 15% off. If you want to join membership to get the discount, sign up here: kzbin.info/door/norhjQR4zJkT7AVNhu395Qjoin Cheers!

[@joet3935]

Thank you so much! I plan on finishing my basement this year. I have all your basement videos saved in a folder. I promise to do before and after photos.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers Joe, Happy to be of help! Enjoy the project!

[@tvm2209]

SENDITTTT

[@guitarchitectural]

How'd it go?

[@joet3935]

​@guitarchitectural I got slowed down by undiagnosed and untreated diabetes. I am about 1 week from final inspection for half the basement.

[@bighomie1620]

@@joet3935hope it went well! Take care

[@bawa2862]

I'm a newby home owner in an older home and your content is very good! Just wanted to say thank you. Cheers!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I appreciate that! Cheers!

[@shanedich3660]

This might be the best, most informative and interesting home reno video I've ever watched. Thank you.

[@billhughes8105]

Valuable information on insulating a basement. One thing I would like for you to mention is egress. I know this really is about the finish product, but in most local building codes, basement living space requires 2-forms of egress; stair case and windows (this is not for walk out basements). DYI, please keep this in mind before deep investments of finishing off the basement. The foam board is such an advantage to finishing off basement walls these days. I love Rockwool insulation in the framing bays (agree cost is more expensive). I love the ease of installment, fire proof and holds up great if you have a flood. Great video!

[@j.n.572]

When I was learning renovation work, I was told to treat the concrete itself as liquid. I see that forgotten often in many situations. I love your explanation and system as it accounts for this. If you have no vapor/moisture barrier under your slab or outside your walls, then moisture will wick through your walls and floor. If you have a vapor barrier and insulation outside, then moisture in the concrete needs to go somewhere, and since it cannot go out, it's going to go in.

[@IT-TechExpert]

Planing for this as material is not cheap these days…. Lool about 1500 sqf basement!!! You guys are awesome!

[@coryschraner7065]

Love your videos. I used those drycore floor squares and had a beam pocket leak. It made its way down the wall and under the floor and in a low spot, then soaked up the seam and swelled the wood. Not a full water proof system like when you rolled out the dimple sheet.

[@soundscrazy]

I'd have itchy fingers after tapping my hands that insulation so much! Great info, boss! Thank you

[@ElionVydell]

Dude, thank you so much. You present the info in a way that is easy to follow and understand, and I feel like I've really learned some things!

[@mookiestix2567]

Great content, thanks Jeff! Would you consider also doing a video on how to frame floating basement walls (required in places like Colorado with expansive soils), and also touching on how to solve tricky floating issues around doors, floor cabinets and tub/shower bases?

[@baudneo]

You're the best and most detailed builder i have found on youtube, Jeff! Ive been watching you off and on for a good 4 or 5 years and i always find myself coming back amd rewatching your content. Great advice, amazing work and an excellent example of how we shoupd be conducting ourselves in the trades.

[@NTTTV1]

Wow This video has got to be super helpful for any DIY'er that wants to finish their basement and just get it done right the first time

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@bighomie1620]

Jeff!! My name is also Jeff! Now that we have that out of the way, THANK YOU. You’ve validated everything I’ve watched or heard on this subject in the past few weeks. I’m half way through ripping my basement apart , built in the 80s and you’re exactly right. No vapour barriers of any kind. And it’s surprisingly dry but musty lately. A few signs of mould starting. Time to make some big changes. I’ll keep you posted on progress

[@kjincanada]

I've watched lots of other videos, no one explained the details like you did. It's very helpful ❤ thank you.

[@HandymanPros]

That was great information Jeff. All makes sense. Thanks!!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers john!

[@Lj22]

Pls add small pics of the products u give examples of as u speak of them e.g vapour barrier , waterproof membrane, subfloors etc . Love your videos. Keep ‘em coming.

[@TheDougOfTheNorth]

Thanks Jeff! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have a 1950s house on Long Island, NY and while not looking for a heavy use living space in the basement, I want a nice option to throw some darts and bang on a drum kit. Cheers

[@waynowat53]

Thanks Jeff love all you help, and appreciate your time.

[@JH-zi8uk]

Im in York Region and as far as vapour barriers go, I do roughly 8 full basements a year. I use 1.5” XPS on the wall (non permeable and is a vapor barrier) and fully seal it, subfloor (sealed to the XPS)then framing. The first time I did this (like, 20 years ago) my building official didn’t know what he was looking at. When I explained it to him, (I’m a former building inspector turned builder) he got it. When I asked him if I still require a 6mil poly on top of it all, he said he wasn’t sure but didn’t see why it would make sense in a fully encapsulated basement so he signed off on it without needing a poly vb. Every job since, I have never been required or requested to add another vapour barrier on top of my insulated wall. The science says, a class I vapour barrier on both sides of a framed wall allows for no drying in either direction and an air gap is necessary for drying to occur. So when your building inspector asks you for it, have them explain exactly why two vapour barriers would be required when it doesn’t allow for drying in the insulated space should moisture occur.

[@wabbott444]

@JH-zi8uk thank you. This answers a prior question i had. Do you spray foam rim joists down to the gap at the top of the XPS? Asa separate question, do u spray foam over the top of electrical and plumbing ?

[@gjorgjiz]

So, no vapour barrier if the rigid board is used as he did? I assumed the same but was not sure

[@daasebre]

Hey Jeff big fan of your channel, I work in new home construction and with the builders I've worked for and the others I have observed they do not install vapour barrier underneath the basement concrete. Unless a client/purchaser asks for it but its not a common thing I've seen in the industry.

[@humangoodness]

You are so knowledgeable and generous! Thank you!

[@creytn]

I'm about 75% done finishing my basement out, and your videos have been a Godsend! I've probably watched 80+ hours of them over the past 6 months! As this is my first real home improvement project, it's been unbelievably helpful walking me through all the various processes (And helping me decide when getting a professional was the right choice haha). My Question is - I'm deciding to cheat and not do a subfloor system as my townhome is only about 5 years old. I'm in Utah. Do you have an LVP underlayment system that you heavily prefer?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

best choice is anything with a cork backing. floor and decor sells a cork underlayment in a roll. 2nd option 3mm eva underpad for sound control. Cheers!

[@4vinylsound]

When finishing a basement do you do that subfloor first and then build the interior walls on top of that or do you do the interior walls first and then the floor?

[@GiiHawk]

did you find the answer to this?

[@NicholasWHaley7]

Definitely doing this in my cellar. Makes sense and can be done.

[@adamhowe8058]

I had basically settled on following this exact plan before I even saw this. Grateful for the validation. One question: when framing out the walls onto the subfloor panels, should I just nail them to the subfloor panels? Or should I Tapcon or Ramset the bottom plates all the way down into the concrete?

[@MrWA0]

Dricore recommends screwing the bottom plate to the subfloor with 2" wood screws and then tapcon/ramset through the bottom plate into the concrete with 3" anchors every 4'.

[@marcotardio2331]

Great video as usual. Why do you prefer the 2x2 subfloor vs the dimple mat and lvp on top ? What about spray vs the foam boards ?

[@ChrisHodges87]

This was one of the best videos I have ever watched on “how to”.

[@CatsEnglishClass]

Thank you so much for explaining clearly enough so a soccer mom can follow! Love your channel and your content.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers to soccer mom's.

[@ashlynherke9277]

Hi Jeff, thank you soooo much for all your content. It really helps to know what's going on, whether I do it myself or end up hiring somebody out. Are you going to do a video on a basement subfloor for an old house when the basement is extremely uneven, especially near a floor drain(3-5 in slope)? Most the videos that I've seen you do, the concrete appears relatively level and could be adjusted using a grinder or leveling compound.

[@reversiontothemean6129]

I love the explanation and watching this channel. Since I am not that good at construction projects and very impatient, I am spending the extra money on the Dricore system.

[@christopherrobbins5207]

I’ve been watching your videos off and on now for the last few months and have found them to be incredibly informative and well explained. I’m going to start work on my basement this year using your videos. I plan on becoming a member of your website to take advantage of the Q&A. Keep up the great work!

[@guitarpro23]

Man, I was literally just thinking of finding a vapor barrier and installing LVP over my concrete floor in the basement of my 1968 home ... Glad I found this video and did my research on it.

[@williamunderwood4339]

Hey ​​⁠! We actually went a slightly different route at the end of the day but most of it still applies. We installed the subfloor of dimpled membrane with 5/8” OSB on top about 1” to the concrete wall (different everywhere cause the concrete is not straight at all!). Then, built the 2x4 wall, 2” from the concrete (again not consistently since we used a laser level to ensure a perfectly straight wall; highly recommend this) and hired a company to spray foam 3” of closed cell spray foam. This obviously got rid of the moisture issues potentially hitting the wood as the spray foam went to the floor but what we were likely planning on doing otherwise is doing a vapour barrier around the OSB and tucking is under the walls sill plate to prevent any moisture issues down the road. Just have to say though that the method of using simple membrane with OSB on top is unbelievably genius! The floor is significantly warmer and nice to walk in similar to a ground or second floor with a bit of cushion; unlike concrete.

[@davidrosin1666]

I’m a new member here, and wow - great stuff! We live in Winnipeg, house built in 1949 and we’re looking at a similar approach having a 3rd party spray foam the basement’s concrete foundation walls. Jeff, I’ve seen you talk about the wall insulation solution where 2” R-10 rigid foam is attached with blobs of LePage PL 300 to the concrete, then walls are framed and insulated with pink fibreglass, which leaves an air gap between the concrete wall and rigid foam, allowing moisture from the under the subfloor to travel up the walls to evaporate. No mould! Question for Jeff: With a raised subfloor option like Dricore or “dimpled membrane with OSB” that provides an air gap along the floor and allows moisture to travel underneath, what is the impact when spray foam covers the walls and seals at the floor, thereby eliminating the air gap along the wall?

[@DeenKarate]

Wow, within the first 5 mins, you perfectly described my basement and what is wrong with it!

[@kiruab]

Amazing! Thank you so much!

[@itcomesinwavves]

A video on Basement steps would be great. I Recently bought an older home (1960s) and a few steps are loose/split. Looking to replace the planks or even redo the whole staircase if materials are priced decent.

[@johns7146]

I went to Homedepot today and found this panel, $8.4 per panel. hope worth the money.: ) Thank you Jeff

[@fuzzyforeigner1]

thermal bridging. nice. like the term

[@shanewalker3427]

I used the foam wall system about 10 years ago on my previous home and it works wonderfully. Just started at our new home and I'm using the exact system here. Bonus points, if you are in Canada the system shown will get you about $1700 in rebates and the insulation for the walls is almost free in the end. Priced out the materials to do this and it will be

[@diegowlp]

that is great to hear, thanks for the hint.

[@chadiverson9291]

Thanks for sharing. Under what program do you get the rebates? Does it work for finishing the basement of a newer home as well?

[@dmitry6472]

@@chadiverson9291 I believe he is talking about Canada Greener Homes Grant

[@Dannyryan73]

Did you put a vapor barrier on top of the studs and insulation?

[@shanewalker3427]

​@@Dannyryan73No. The foam layer takes care of that.

[@45valk]

I’m sure glad I found this video, I’m in the process of redoing my basement. My house is where I grew up and it just turned 125 years old. 👍

[@romascopa8461]

I did a dritek floor system or something. Cleated 2x2 osb board basically. I couldn't get a contractor to do them, so I did...pretty easy project to be honest. Definitely worth it too in terms of warm floors all year long.

[@tadan1111]

Learned a lot. Thanks for posting

[@imafool69]

Thanks, im currently doing a makeover of the basement and these are great tip. im halfway done (subfloor with thermal barrier, and rigid insulation on the wall so far) and can already feel a big difference. one issue i ran in were the Tapcon screw snapping on me. i first used the 3/16 3inch screw and before i could get any compression (head of screw inbedding inside the osb) it would just snap off, so i went back to buy 1/4 3 inch screw instead and they worked much better. Overall this system seems to works great so far, cant wait to be all done.

[@khurrummurtaza9560]

I really enjoy your videos. I am in a process of making my basement. I was hoping if you can answer couple of questions. It's a walkout basement. Half of the basement is framed and insulated the bottom half is the wrapped insulation. I am getting mixed advise as to leave the wrap and add more insulation after framing in front of it. I would really appreciate your help in this. Thank you

[@virginia_in_the_rearview]

This is explained in a way even I understand it. 🙂 I have a ranch style home in Virginia built in the early 1970's. I'm going to be finishing the basement so I can have that added value when I go to sell it in a few years. Thanks for this video, it's just what I needed!!!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers to Virginia!

[@joshbowers979]

Any thoughts on doing an epoxy floor in an older home's basement?

[@JaviEsco99]

Looking to re do my basement, have a handful of questions. I just joined and hoped we can converse soon. Have a great day! My wife and I enjoy your videos

[@Lesoleil370]

Great video, thank you Jeff, I learned a lot

[@rpaulpen]

I love your videos but you totally neglected what most want to know: Do I need a vapour barrier after the wall board and insulation? Some say yes and others say it will trap in any moisture. Thoughts?

[@alexarmstrong1134]

❓question pls We have a house from 1968 it unfinished basement only used for storage. Never going to finished living space. I’m going to insulate joists pockets like you suggested and possibly walls. But I feel it’s overkill to do the floor. Fantastic drainage in our area so water is no issue. Would spending the money to insulate the floor pay off for heating? Great Video Thanks again for all you do

[@Football-g9y2n]

Thank you haylee

[@Josh-km9vc]

The Dricore product Insul-Armor looks to be a pretty solid product. Doesn’t need plywood/osb which saves money and precious height. Limits flooring options to only floating floors though.

[@kflynn14]

Awesome video, thanks Jeff! One question, would adding a vapor barrier not run the risk of creating a double vapour barrier with the foam board?

[@xXJasonMakiXx]

really wish basements were more commonly added to new housing, but then again not like i can afford a house as a mid 20s man of only one salary in Oregon. When the time comes all the videos I binge of yours will come in handy for sure.

[@ee-vand-gr8758]

How do you install basement subfloor around utilities? Thank you for the great content!

[@ekuhn5363]

I have superior walls in my home. Built in 98. I didn't realize I could use fiberglass in between studs. Didn't know it had a vapor barrier in concrete. Thank you!

[@1RTShaker]

Ty very clear and to the point video. I will be doing exactly this in my basement. I really appreciate you for making this video and will now be a sub of your channel. Looking forward to watching more great videos like this.

[@rbigan]

Great video. When installing the framed wall on top of Dri-core panels, do you anchor the wall base down into the concrete or just into the sub floor??

[@biscuitbuilder27]

How is it you always deliver exactly the content I need EXACTLY when I need it? 😻😻

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I have no idea. Cheers!

[@grantyano8710]

Suggest making a video on garage to ADU conversion. Thanks.

[@sainte9945]

Question- my floor in the basement has an epoxy layer. Would it still be recommended to us the subfloor system or can I just lay the vynil floor on top ?

[@kyriakoskastaniotis4490]

Excellent content, great delivery of information. Keep up the stellar work!!! 👍👍👍👍

[@adamarditi82]

Really great video. Thanks for the good explanations and visual example. For older homes, what's your thoughts on using 1x furring strips spiked through the doam into the concrete, to hang the drywall on. Or Framing with 2 x 3 studs. Just not sure why one would opt for the extra cost of 2 x 4 studs with r 12 insulation if the foam board is already there. Thanks

[@sachinjadhav5077]

Hi Jeff, great video!! Thanks for making it. I have a couple of questions. 1. Is it better to waterproof the wall with DRYLOK extreme and then follow all the instructions in this video? 2. How do we install frame on top of the subfloor as you mentioned in the video? Thanks I’m advance!

[@hyderali7973]

I built my house last year, so far I haven't had any water related problems in the basement. This is what I did 1. Filled the base with washed 1/4 inch no. 13 limestone 2. Layed drain tiles along the outside perimeter of the footer 3. Layed drain tiles inside the footer and one through the center of the basement and tied them to a sump pit. 4. Used vapor barrier 5. Then poured concrete over the vapor barrier. 6. And finally sealed the outside basement walls with tar before backfilling. I do get a lot of ground water from underneath the base but it vicks through the stone and collects into the interior drain pipes and out through the sump pump. I plan to finish the basement next year

[@evrimercan7861]

@HomeRenoVisionDIY minute 7:18, you drop glue like poop so when it dries you have about 1/2 "to 3/4" space between board and basement wall right? And you also left 1" space at the bottom where foam don't touch the floor. OK, as you recommended in one of the videos, I was planning to spray foam my rim joist to stop air movement. So how air from floor will be able to travel from bottom to top rims and out, there is no space for air. I am confused about this if I spray foam the rim joist and top of the concrete within inside.

[@GunnarShaffer]

Outstanding video! 🎉

[@nickjarvis4697]

Great video, clearest walk through of finishing a basement I've seen. Can I use a product like RadonSeal on my 1986 basement concrete slab to prevent moisture?

[@michaelpopovich2355]

for newer homes, if you use the subfloor system, would you still recommend using a treated base plate for your stud wall?

[@Lolan1111]

Hello I'm a new viewer and planning a massive entire home renovation to upgrade all the mechanical and I've been absolutely loving your videos. I noticed in this video at the building inspections section you mentioned there is going to be 2 inspections early on, however you only mentioned an electrical inspection. What is the second one?

[@bookworm8134]

so many gems , THANK YOU!

[@Freabyrd]

Great video 👍

[@travisliu3032]

at 8:20, when we sit a 2x4 frame on the OSB, do we need a pressure-treated 2x4 for the base piece and use the concrete nails to fix it on the concrete floor? That means we can't change the OSB board unless unscrewing the wood frame first.

[@Cschwind]

Hey Jeff, thanks for awesome videos! Quick question before I start on my basement using your guidance. Can I use a Ramset to secure subfloor panels to concrete or does it have to be Tapcon screws? Also there’s no concern with moisture getting through said hole in the subfloor panel?

[@edasher06]

Question 6:29. How does the bottom of the wall look in this setup? Does the foam board sit on the concrete? Does it sit on part of the frame? The subfloor isn't installed first right?

[@vladimirkvartenko6944]

Hi Jeff, great video, as always. But what about fire blocking, don't you need to fireblock that gap between the rigid foam and the concrete wall at the top? If you do, than this moist air has nowhere to go.

[@pjesfandiari3521]

Thanks for the video, Jeff - great content as always! What about for areas like steel columns? Would you use pressure treated plates around them directly on the concrete and then have the subfloor product abut against the pressure treated lumber? Or would you just bring the subfloor as close to the column as possible and then frame directly on top of the subfloor?

[@eyesopen6110]

Would/Should you apply Drylok to concrete walls before applying the foam board?

[@cni84]

Hi, will this be the same for a full walkout basement with all the living space being above ground level? With blanket insulation?

[@marcbelanger2817]

Hello Jeff. I am considering this method for my basement re-insulation. I have a comment and a question. First, I am in Thunder Bay. 1950s bungalow bought in 2020, solidly built, basement partially finished with 1960s style panelling. wall-to-wall carpet and drop ceiling, sump pump and backflow valve, no leaks, no mustiness, carpeting is dry, painted cement block foundation wall, 2x4 studs and R-10 fiberglass, "loose" wall assembly (therefore drafty basement), minimal dampness around edges of some pieces of insulation, no mould in sections of wall I have checked. My comment: About two years ago I wrapped some large, heavy boxes in plastic wrap and stored them on a shelf right up against a section of exposed concrete block. A couple of months ago I removed them from the shelf and saw black mould wherever the plastic wrap had been touching the wall. This is why I am gravitating toward your approach of building an air gap into the wall assembly. Now my question: what about the rim joist? Do I continue that air space into the rim joist along the bottom plate and up into the joist to allow moisture to exit the wall above grade? Or do I forget about the air space at that point and fill the rim joist area with a layer of rigid board and batt insulation?

[@migueldasilva9039]

I just became a member and love your video above. I have a few questions: 1) Does the Foam Board need to be 2" R10 or can it be 1.5" R7.50 2) Should I tape the foam board to the Dri-Core or use Great Stuff Insulating Foam 3) you mention using a vapour barrier, but the government site says I should use a Smart Barrier. Should I use one and if so which should I buy? P.S. I will be using Rockwool R14 between the studs.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

all you need is r 7.5 for the rigid. and for best results in older houses use the subfloor and then install the rigid on top or leave a gap to slide it under. seal with a thin window foam so seal and not fill the air cavity. Not sure where you live so I can't comment on the barrier. always follow local building code. Cheers!

[@twincno]

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ THIS GUY!

[@Here_we_grow_again]

Great video, as always! I have a question, though. What if you have to block your framed wall due to pipe runs, etc?

[@carlsarazin]

Thanks for the updated video Jeff !!! This makes a lot of sense... even for a French guy !hahaha ... so the question remains... If I want to install a subfloor in the basement but the walls are already finished... do I still leave a 1/4" gap between the subfloor and the drywall ? Thanks again and sorry for all the questions in multiple videos ! Best!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Hi Carl if you have walls already and you have a waterproofing system on the exterior then try the new dricore thermal panel . it is lightweight and has no osb on it. install like an underlayment and lay flooring directly on top. Cheers!

[@spankyclaymore8213]

Jeff great video. I have a 1950’s rambler in Washington State that someone converted a slab on grade garage to a master bedroom, so no vapor barrier,They put vinyl plank flooring with cork backing no pad/vapor barrier underneath. 6 months after moving in we moved decorative rug in the room and noticed mold growing in straight lines on the underside that matched joint lines of the plank floor below. Now ripping out the floor leaving the exposed 74 year old concrete slab. I love your option of the dry core panels. My two questions are. 1. Is there no epoxy or painted vapor barrier that could down under the dry core? 2. The walls are finished …If I put the dry core subfloor in and leave it 1/2” from the walls, how does the moisture dissipate from the room? I don’t have AC and the house is heated with electric wall blowers in each room. Thanks in advance if you have time to answer this. I trust and appreciate your advice.

[@scotta2702]

Thanks for the great videos. You talk about the subfloor system...but don't say who makes it or where to get it. So...who makes this, and where do I get it? Thanks.

[@4vinylsound]

after building your wood wall frame over the installation boards do you need to caulk it down to the sub floor to keep it air tight before putting your floor panels down?

[@Dan-vn9xe]

I have watched many of your videos on basement finish. What if you have in floor heat and icf in the basement? Would you finish that differently? I am working on finishing my basement and your videos are very helpful! I also live in Canada.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Hi Dan, new construction allows for ICF R 20 to 30 depending on your block. Radiant heating in floor means you also have a vapor barrier under the slab and probably insulation there as well. in your case you should simply install a vinyl plank with cork directly on the floor.

[@Dan-vn9xe]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!

[@bobmac9070]

The house I bought had that type of insulation (what I call as roofing I insulation) and it got wet and smelly. Threw it all out, threw the cheap picture paneling out too. Put in styrofoam insulation, painted the walls with waterproof paint n sealer. Then put up nice 1/4” thick real wood paneling. 💯 better basement now. And and a good dehumidifier!

[@randomdude3066]

Have you looked at Dricore's Insul-Armor product? It's 4'x2' sheets of rigid foam, no OSB. Much lighter, easier to cut. Tong and groove. Dricore says you can frame on top of it.

[@chrism1539]

Hi Jeff, I live in Ottawa area and love your channel. This is the first time I ever logged in to actually comment on UTube, so hoping I do this correct. My question is the same as another person here regarding the top of your solution where it meets the rim/floor joist. How is it finished? I can't visualize the flow of air up there and am leaning to just sealing it all the way out of the cavity until it is flush with the foam board. Thoughts? Anyone? I watched a similar video where there is no gap between the foam and the concrete and it is sealed basically from floor to ceiling. Then the wall is built in front sitting on the foundation using pressure treated lumber (no sub floor under the wall). This is an 80s home and seems to be dry. There is also a sump in a far corner that has a little standing water but never seems to change so I am guessing there is generally no exterior water issues.

[@sevosomnus9644]

What would you change in CO where floating walls are required? Would you do the bottom plate on the concrete pad or subfloor? Also, what if there is Drylok painted on the walls? Does that change anything?

[@Griffolion0]

It's great to see that a lot of my plan for my basement office is consistent with your advice. But it looks like I can butt the framing right up against the foam board and not leave a half inch gap which I had initially planned.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

best to have the gap behind the rigid foam. no value if it is between the framing and foam.

[@toddreitz2211]

Hi, I like the idea of putting 4 globs of sealant on the foam board. 2 questions: How do you keep the air gap behind the foam board even? Should you use some type of spacer? We are having a basement waterproofing installed with the wall wrap. Does this adhesive sick to the wall wrap, or will I need to do something different?

[@conradcoolerfiend]

you dont need to keep the air gap even, it doesnt really matter. but if you do want to, just stick some sort of spacer on the back, like a plastic or pressure treate woo spacer, dont stick foam board to wall wrap. you use one or the other. they both do the job of keeping water out.

[@isaacyoung1868]

i was going to do polyurethane basement floor.. is that a bad idea? your concept of the subfloor in this video is interesting.

[@lazmotron]

Great video

[@iantorhys]

This was amazingly helpful. Thank you!

[@jennifergetter2116]

Would it be possible to create a subfloor similar to the product you shared but with pressure treated lumber, cut down to about 1", a vapor barrier, and osb? Im trying to finish a room on a budget. I appreciate youre videos, youve helped me on many home reno projects!

[@infiniti2015]

Would you also cover the concrete strip adjacent to the sill plate with purple foam board?

[@cbrboy17]

Jeff, I’ve seen videos that you have put a sub floor down and then framed the walls on top of it. I have also seen videos where you have done all the walls and then put a sub floor against the wall after (using the green foam boards and then Masonite). Which method do you prefer best? I live in Ontario like you.

[@mikevenditello]

Finally someone answered this question. So many time at the hardware store got different answers... would I need to alert the city when starting my basement project or wait until I'm at the electrical stage??

[@davel8218]

You should apply the permit before you start anything or you never.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

always get the permit first. Cheers!

[@mikevenditello]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks