The Best Way To Finish Your Basement

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

We now have merch! Go to homerenovisiondiy.com/pages/shop to order. Members, make sure to check the community post for 15% off. If you want to join membership to get the discount, sign up here: kzbin.info/door/norhjQR4zJkT7AVNhu395Qjoin Cheers!

[@joet3935]

Thank you so much! I plan on finishing my basement this year. I have all your basement videos saved in a folder. I promise to do before and after photos.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers Joe, Happy to be of help! Enjoy the project!

[@tvm2209]

SENDITTTT

[@guitarchitectural]

How'd it go?

[@joet3935]

​@guitarchitectural I got slowed down by undiagnosed and untreated diabetes. I am about 1 week from final inspection for half the basement.

[@bighomie1620]

@@joet3935hope it went well! Take care

[@shanedich3660]

This might be the best, most informative and interesting home reno video I've ever watched. Thank you.

[@j.n.572]

When I was learning renovation work, I was told to treat the concrete itself as liquid. I see that forgotten often in many situations. I love your explanation and system as it accounts for this. If you have no vapor/moisture barrier under your slab or outside your walls, then moisture will wick through your walls and floor. If you have a vapor barrier and insulation outside, then moisture in the concrete needs to go somewhere, and since it cannot go out, it's going to go in.

[@billhughes8105]

Valuable information on insulating a basement. One thing I would like for you to mention is egress. I know this really is about the finish product, but in most local building codes, basement living space requires 2-forms of egress; stair case and windows (this is not for walk out basements). DYI, please keep this in mind before deep investments of finishing off the basement. The foam board is such an advantage to finishing off basement walls these days. I love Rockwool insulation in the framing bays (agree cost is more expensive). I love the ease of installment, fire proof and holds up great if you have a flood. Great video!

[@baudneo]

You're the best and most detailed builder i have found on youtube, Jeff! Ive been watching you off and on for a good 4 or 5 years and i always find myself coming back amd rewatching your content. Great advice, amazing work and an excellent example of how we shoupd be conducting ourselves in the trades.

[@coryschraner7065]

Love your videos. I used those drycore floor squares and had a beam pocket leak. It made its way down the wall and under the floor and in a low spot, then soaked up the seam and swelled the wood. Not a full water proof system like when you rolled out the dimple sheet.

[@bighomie1620]

Jeff!! My name is also Jeff! Now that we have that out of the way, THANK YOU. You’ve validated everything I’ve watched or heard on this subject in the past few weeks. I’m half way through ripping my basement apart , built in the 80s and you’re exactly right. No vapour barriers of any kind. And it’s surprisingly dry but musty lately. A few signs of mould starting. Time to make some big changes. I’ll keep you posted on progress

[@bawa2862]

I'm a newby home owner in an older home and your content is very good! Just wanted to say thank you. Cheers!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I appreciate that! Cheers!

[@soundscrazy]

I'd have itchy fingers after tapping my hands that insulation so much! Great info, boss! Thank you

[@mookiestix2567]

Great content, thanks Jeff! Would you consider also doing a video on how to frame floating basement walls (required in places like Colorado with expansive soils), and also touching on how to solve tricky floating issues around doors, floor cabinets and tub/shower bases?

[@IT-TechExpert]

Planing for this as material is not cheap these days…. Lool about 1500 sqf basement!!! You guys are awesome!

[@NTTTV1]

Wow This video has got to be super helpful for any DIY'er that wants to finish their basement and just get it done right the first time

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@ElionVydell]

Dude, thank you so much. You present the info in a way that is easy to follow and understand, and I feel like I've really learned some things!

[@kjincanada]

I've watched lots of other videos, no one explained the details like you did. It's very helpful ❤ thank you.

[@guitarpro23]

Man, I was literally just thinking of finding a vapor barrier and installing LVP over my concrete floor in the basement of my 1968 home ... Glad I found this video and did my research on it.

[@45valk]

I’m sure glad I found this video, I’m in the process of redoing my basement. My house is where I grew up and it just turned 125 years old. 👍

[@TheDougOfTheNorth]

Thanks Jeff! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have a 1950s house on Long Island, NY and while not looking for a heavy use living space in the basement, I want a nice option to throw some darts and bang on a drum kit. Cheers

[@ashlynherke9277]

Hi Jeff, thank you soooo much for all your content. It really helps to know what's going on, whether I do it myself or end up hiring somebody out. Are you going to do a video on a basement subfloor for an old house when the basement is extremely uneven, especially near a floor drain(3-5 in slope)? Most the videos that I've seen you do, the concrete appears relatively level and could be adjusted using a grinder or leveling compound.

[@creytn]

I'm about 75% done finishing my basement out, and your videos have been a Godsend! I've probably watched 80+ hours of them over the past 6 months! As this is my first real home improvement project, it's been unbelievably helpful walking me through all the various processes (And helping me decide when getting a professional was the right choice haha). My Question is - I'm deciding to cheat and not do a subfloor system as my townhome is only about 5 years old. I'm in Utah. Do you have an LVP underlayment system that you heavily prefer?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

best choice is anything with a cork backing. floor and decor sells a cork underlayment in a roll. 2nd option 3mm eva underpad for sound control. Cheers!

[@kflynn14]

Awesome video, thanks Jeff! One question, would adding a vapor barrier not run the risk of creating a double vapour barrier with the foam board?

[@Cschwind]

Hey Jeff, thanks for awesome videos! Quick question before I start on my basement using your guidance. Can I use a Ramset to secure subfloor panels to concrete or does it have to be Tapcon screws? Also there’s no concern with moisture getting through said hole in the subfloor panel?

[@edasher06]

Question 6:29. How does the bottom of the wall look in this setup? Does the foam board sit on the concrete? Does it sit on part of the frame? The subfloor isn't installed first right?

[@ChrisHodges87]

This was one of the best videos I have ever watched on “how to”.

[@travisliu3032]

at 8:20, when we sit a 2x4 frame on the OSB, do we need a pressure-treated 2x4 for the base piece and use the concrete nails to fix it on the concrete floor? That means we can't change the OSB board unless unscrewing the wood frame first.

[@LandQuestTotes]

Do you recommend waterproofing Walls and floors first? Necessary or Not? Radeon gas from the ground may pass through cracks on the basement floor with cracks.

[@Lj22]

Pls add small pics of the products u give examples of as u speak of them e.g vapour barrier , waterproof membrane, subfloors etc . Love your videos. Keep ‘em coming.

[@biscuitbuilder27]

How is it you always deliver exactly the content I need EXACTLY when I need it? 😻😻

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I have no idea. Cheers!

[@williamunderwood4339]

Hey ​​⁠! We actually went a slightly different route at the end of the day but most of it still applies. We installed the subfloor of dimpled membrane with 5/8” OSB on top about 1” to the concrete wall (different everywhere cause the concrete is not straight at all!). Then, built the 2x4 wall, 2” from the concrete (again not consistently since we used a laser level to ensure a perfectly straight wall; highly recommend this) and hired a company to spray foam 3” of closed cell spray foam. This obviously got rid of the moisture issues potentially hitting the wood as the spray foam went to the floor but what we were likely planning on doing otherwise is doing a vapour barrier around the OSB and tucking is under the walls sill plate to prevent any moisture issues down the road. Just have to say though that the method of using simple membrane with OSB on top is unbelievably genius! The floor is significantly warmer and nice to walk in similar to a ground or second floor with a bit of cushion; unlike concrete.

[@davidrosin1666]

I’m a new member here, and wow - great stuff! We live in Winnipeg, house built in 1949 and we’re looking at a similar approach having a 3rd party spray foam the basement’s concrete foundation walls. Jeff, I’ve seen you talk about the wall insulation solution where 2” R-10 rigid foam is attached with blobs of LePage PL 300 to the concrete, then walls are framed and insulated with pink fibreglass, which leaves an air gap between the concrete wall and rigid foam, allowing moisture from the under the subfloor to travel up the walls to evaporate. No mould! Question for Jeff: With a raised subfloor option like Dricore or “dimpled membrane with OSB” that provides an air gap along the floor and allows moisture to travel underneath, what is the impact when spray foam covers the walls and seals at the floor, thereby eliminating the air gap along the wall?

[@shanewalker3427]

I used the foam wall system about 10 years ago on my previous home and it works wonderfully. Just started at our new home and I'm using the exact system here. Bonus points, if you are in Canada the system shown will get you about $1700 in rebates and the insulation for the walls is almost free in the end. Priced out the materials to do this and it will be

[@diegowlp]

that is great to hear, thanks for the hint.

[@chadiverson9291]

Thanks for sharing. Under what program do you get the rebates? Does it work for finishing the basement of a newer home as well?

[@dmitry6472]

@@chadiverson9291 I believe he is talking about Canada Greener Homes Grant

[@Dannyryan73]

Did you put a vapor barrier on top of the studs and insulation?

[@shanewalker3427]

​@@Dannyryan73No. The foam layer takes care of that.

[@waynowat53]

Thanks Jeff love all you help, and appreciate your time.

[@christopherrobbins5207]

I’ve been watching your videos off and on now for the last few months and have found them to be incredibly informative and well explained. I’m going to start work on my basement this year using your videos. I plan on becoming a member of your website to take advantage of the Q&A. Keep up the great work!

[@adamhowe8058]

I had basically settled on following this exact plan before I even saw this. Grateful for the validation. One question: when framing out the walls onto the subfloor panels, should I just nail them to the subfloor panels? Or should I Tapcon or Ramset the bottom plates all the way down into the concrete?

[@MrWA0]

Dricore recommends screwing the bottom plate to the subfloor with 2" wood screws and then tapcon/ramset through the bottom plate into the concrete with 3" anchors every 4'.

[@4vinylsound]

When finishing a basement do you do that subfloor first and then build the interior walls on top of that or do you do the interior walls first and then the floor?

[@GeordieHock]

did you find the answer to this?

[@infiniti2015]

Why wouldn't you install the dimple mat, then the XPS wall foam, followed by the plywood subfloor instead? Doesn't this method risk moisture directly impacting the OSB plywood sides?

[@trunkingham]

I was thinking about this, too, it seems like you'd almost need to install the foam board first, and then the dimple/OSB inside of it to avoid the edge of the OSB hitting water/moisture coming down the walls

[@daasebre]

Hey Jeff big fan of your channel, I work in new home construction and with the builders I've worked for and the others I have observed they do not install vapour barrier underneath the basement concrete. Unless a client/purchaser asks for it but its not a common thing I've seen in the industry.

[@romascopa8461]

I did a dritek floor system or something. Cleated 2x2 osb board basically. I couldn't get a contractor to do them, so I did...pretty easy project to be honest. Definitely worth it too in terms of warm floors all year long.

[@DeenKarate]

Wow, within the first 5 mins, you perfectly described my basement and what is wrong with it!

[@imafool69]

Thanks, im currently doing a makeover of the basement and these are great tip. im halfway done (subfloor with thermal barrier, and rigid insulation on the wall so far) and can already feel a big difference. one issue i ran in were the Tapcon screw snapping on me. i first used the 3/16 3inch screw and before i could get any compression (head of screw inbedding inside the osb) it would just snap off, so i went back to buy 1/4 3 inch screw instead and they worked much better. Overall this system seems to works great so far, cant wait to be all done.

[@ekuhn5363]

I have superior walls in my home. Built in 98. I didn't realize I could use fiberglass in between studs. Didn't know it had a vapor barrier in concrete. Thank you!

[@johns7146]

I went to Homedepot today and found this panel, $8.4 per panel. hope worth the money.: ) Thank you Jeff

[@slamjam004]

Do you put the foam board over the French drain plastic that's around the perimeter of the basement?

[@CatsEnglishClass]

Thank you so much for explaining clearly enough so a soccer mom can follow! Love your channel and your content.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers to soccer mom's.

[@sachinjadhav5077]

Hi Jeff, great video!! Thanks for making it. I have a couple of questions. 1. Is it better to waterproof the wall with DRYLOK extreme and then follow all the instructions in this video? 2. How do we install frame on top of the subfloor as you mentioned in the video? Thanks I’m advance!

[@HandymanPros]

That was great information Jeff. All makes sense. Thanks!!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers john!

[@reversiontothemean6129]

I love the explanation and watching this channel. Since I am not that good at construction projects and very impatient, I am spending the extra money on the Dricore system.

[@darrontabor3139]

Love the videos. Question about the floor. Every basement Ive been in has one or more drains in the center of the floor and the floor slopes toward them from the walls. When trying to lay that floor underlayment, Id think it would be a nightmare as the floor isn't level from one side to the other??

[@itcomesinwavves]

A video on Basement steps would be great. I Recently bought an older home (1960s) and a few steps are loose/split. Looking to replace the planks or even redo the whole staircase if materials are priced decent.

[@virginia_in_the_rearview]

This is explained in a way even I understand it. 🙂 I have a ranch style home in Virginia built in the early 1970's. I'm going to be finishing the basement so I can have that added value when I go to sell it in a few years. Thanks for this video, it's just what I needed!!!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers to Virginia!

[@joshbowers979]

Any thoughts on doing an epoxy floor in an older home's basement?

[@pjesfandiari3521]

Thanks for the video, Jeff - great content as always! What about for areas like steel columns? Would you use pressure treated plates around them directly on the concrete and then have the subfloor product abut against the pressure treated lumber? Or would you just bring the subfloor as close to the column as possible and then frame directly on top of the subfloor?

[@xXJasonMakiXx]

really wish basements were more commonly added to new housing, but then again not like i can afford a house as a mid 20s man of only one salary in Oregon. When the time comes all the videos I binge of yours will come in handy for sure.

[@ee-vand-gr8758]

How do you install basement subfloor around utilities? Thank you for the great content!

[@Dan-vn9xe]

I have watched many of your videos on basement finish. What if you have in floor heat and icf in the basement? Would you finish that differently? I am working on finishing my basement and your videos are very helpful! I also live in Canada.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Hi Dan, new construction allows for ICF R 20 to 30 depending on your block. Radiant heating in floor means you also have a vapor barrier under the slab and probably insulation there as well. in your case you should simply install a vinyl plank with cork directly on the floor.

[@Dan-vn9xe]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!

[@adamarditi82]

Really great video. Thanks for the good explanations and visual example. For older homes, what's your thoughts on using 1x furring strips spiked through the doam into the concrete, to hang the drywall on. Or Framing with 2 x 3 studs. Just not sure why one would opt for the extra cost of 2 x 4 studs with r 12 insulation if the foam board is already there. Thanks

[@4vinylsound]

after building your wood wall frame over the installation boards do you need to caulk it down to the sub floor to keep it air tight before putting your floor panels down?

[@toddreitz2211]

Hi, I like the idea of putting 4 globs of sealant on the foam board. 2 questions: How do you keep the air gap behind the foam board even? Should you use some type of spacer? We are having a basement waterproofing installed with the wall wrap. Does this adhesive sick to the wall wrap, or will I need to do something different?

[@conradcoolerfiend]

you dont need to keep the air gap even, it doesnt really matter. but if you do want to, just stick some sort of spacer on the back, like a plastic or pressure treate woo spacer, dont stick foam board to wall wrap. you use one or the other. they both do the job of keeping water out.

[@humangoodness]

You are so knowledgeable and generous! Thank you!

[@nickjarvis4697]

Great video, clearest walk through of finishing a basement I've seen. Can I use a product like RadonSeal on my 1986 basement concrete slab to prevent moisture?

[@khurrummurtaza9560]

I really enjoy your videos. I am in a process of making my basement. I was hoping if you can answer couple of questions. It's a walkout basement. Half of the basement is framed and insulated the bottom half is the wrapped insulation. I am getting mixed advise as to leave the wrap and add more insulation after framing in front of it. I would really appreciate your help in this. Thank you

[@alweisz672]

I'm assuming with this system that the moisture escapes eventually through the rim joists. So, how does this system work if the rim joists have been insulated and sealed? Where would the moisture go?

[@Josh-km9vc]

The Dricore product Insul-Armor looks to be a pretty solid product. Doesn’t need plywood/osb which saves money and precious height. Limits flooring options to only floating floors though.

[@cni84]

Hi, will this be the same for a full walkout basement with all the living space being above ground level? With blanket insulation?

[@cbrboy17]

Jeff, I’ve seen videos that you have put a sub floor down and then framed the walls on top of it. I have also seen videos where you have done all the walls and then put a sub floor against the wall after (using the green foam boards and then Masonite). Which method do you prefer best? I live in Ontario like you.

[@andrewzeier4341]

How would you secure the Dricore to the concrete and how would you suggest securing framework to the subfloors?

[@Here_we_grow_again]

Great video, as always! I have a question, though. What if you have to block your framed wall due to pipe runs, etc?

[@Griffolion0]

It's great to see that a lot of my plan for my basement office is consistent with your advice. But it looks like I can butt the framing right up against the foam board and not leave a half inch gap which I had initially planned.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

best to have the gap behind the rigid foam. no value if it is between the framing and foam.

[@vladimirkvartenko6944]

Hi Jeff, great video, as always. But what about fire blocking, don't you need to fireblock that gap between the rigid foam and the concrete wall at the top? If you do, than this moist air has nowhere to go.

[@EricVB20]

What do you do for the rim joists and the space above your wall? Insulate? Rigid foam?

[@annechinnery3793]

Thanks for the great video! Where I live there are codes related to fire blocking in the walls. The vertical blocks shouldn't affect the movement of moisture you describe, but I'm a little concerned about the fire blocking at the top of the walls affecting air movement into the subfloor above. Do you have any suggestions?

[@christopherflynn9741]

Hi, I watched one of your videos where you expressed the importance of putting up foam board against the foundation of a new house before framing it out and installing the fiberglass insullation between thr studs. I took your advice and bought 15 8×4 pannel thus far of the 25 I think ill need. In preparation of buying the lumber i did some further research on metal vs wood studs to discover using metal studs is a far more attractive alternative to wood. With that said, I watched one of your videos on framing metal studs and it appeared as though the rigid foam board may no longer be neccessary. If you wouldnt mind clarifying if im still on the right track with using faom board behind metal studs with fiberglass between them I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks ,Chris

[@sidsid9808]

You should still use foam boards, as it will add extra R value and will partially act as a vapor barrier (not to compromise fiberglass insulation's R value due to wetness). Disclaimer: I am not a licensed contractor but a home DIYer.

[@alexbonemeyer3042]

Absolutely still use the foam board. The rigid foam is there to provide insulation. The type of stud you use will not impact this, and fiberglass insulation directly against concrete is a no-no.

[@jareds5520]

If we have existing framing that we aren't going to redo, and they are too close to the concrete foundation to get anything behind it, would the next best solution be a 1-2" layer of closed cell foam + fiberglass batt in the stud bays? If so, would you still install a poly vapor barrier on top of that?

[@davel8218]

Hi Jeff, If a newer house has been settled for several years and no sign of water leaks or cracks, what is the risk of not ripping out the blanket insulation from 1-10 scale? Do you have a plan to make a video just to talk about building permit for finishing basement? maybe use Ontario as talking point? I think that will help a lot of DIYer who may not know all the details. Thanks!

[@kyriakoskastaniotis4490]

Excellent content, great delivery of information. Keep up the stellar work!!! 👍👍👍👍

[@RomanBuildsIt]

Hi Jeff, Great vid! Are you still putting a plastic poly over the R12?

[@brewjitsu429]

Hey Jeff, thanks for your videos. Q: Does the foam board count as a vapour barrier? Ie do you still have to use plastic vapour barrier over your studs and fibreglass insulation?

[@dan11279]

I was wondering this myself. I live in southeastern PA

[@Embizzle-2277]

I have an interior vapor membrane on my basement walls, would you still use the foam board on top of that? Then frame then insulate?

[@marcbelanger2817]

Hello Jeff. I am considering this method for my basement re-insulation. I have a comment and a question. First, I am in Thunder Bay. 1950s bungalow bought in 2020, solidly built, basement partially finished with 1960s style panelling. wall-to-wall carpet and drop ceiling, sump pump and backflow valve, no leaks, no mustiness, carpeting is dry, painted cement block foundation wall, 2x4 studs and R-10 fiberglass, "loose" wall assembly (therefore drafty basement), minimal dampness around edges of some pieces of insulation, no mould in sections of wall I have checked. My comment: About two years ago I wrapped some large, heavy boxes in plastic wrap and stored them on a shelf right up against a section of exposed concrete block. A couple of months ago I removed them from the shelf and saw black mould wherever the plastic wrap had been touching the wall. This is why I am gravitating toward your approach of building an air gap into the wall assembly. Now my question: what about the rim joist? Do I continue that air space into the rim joist along the bottom plate and up into the joist to allow moisture to exit the wall above grade? Or do I forget about the air space at that point and fill the rim joist area with a layer of rigid board and batt insulation?

[@1RTShaker]

Ty very clear and to the point video. I will be doing exactly this in my basement. I really appreciate you for making this video and will now be a sub of your channel. Looking forward to watching more great videos like this.

[@chrism1539]

Hi Jeff, I live in Ottawa area and love your channel. This is the first time I ever logged in to actually comment on UTube, so hoping I do this correct. My question is the same as another person here regarding the top of your solution where it meets the rim/floor joist. How is it finished? I can't visualize the flow of air up there and am leaning to just sealing it all the way out of the cavity until it is flush with the foam board. Thoughts? Anyone? I watched a similar video where there is no gap between the foam and the concrete and it is sealed basically from floor to ceiling. Then the wall is built in front sitting on the foundation using pressure treated lumber (no sub floor under the wall). This is an 80s home and seems to be dry. There is also a sump in a far corner that has a little standing water but never seems to change so I am guessing there is generally no exterior water issues.

[@alekseyvaynshteyn]

Great video, Jeff! Thank you for all the info. My basement has painted concrete walls. Is this an issue for moisture management? I plan to finish the floor with the blue dimpled membrane and vinyl over that. The walls will be finished with rigid foam attached with dabs of adhesive as you suggested, and framed walls in front of that. My concern is that the pain on the concrete will hinder moisture from being reabsorbed into the concrete if it is traveling from the floor. Do I need to strip the paint off the concrete walls? Thank you for your guidance.

[@JaviEsco99]

Looking to re do my basement, have a handful of questions. I just joined and hoped we can converse soon. Have a great day! My wife and I enjoy your videos

[@Arvnbro]

11:06 I thought the vapor barrier goes first right on the concrete wall , then the foam but you say it goes under the drywall ! Which one is better?

[@johannbradley8799]

Love the video! Quick question, when installing the subfloor you recommended, can you use a ramset to secure the subfloor to the concrete in the basement or is it better to just go with the drill?

[@burningdust]

Great video! And definitely one of the best methods however I live in northern Canada where we experience severe cold temps in the winter months. With the air gap behind the xps foam I’m wondering if there would be frost buildup then moisture / mould later in that space. If the exterior of the foundation has been sealed with a membrane would it not be better to spray foam the concrete inside?

[@michelquintin8640]

Hi Jeff! Just reviewing again your advices after just getting some water from Debby… What about sprayed foam? Too expensive? Pros and cons? Since it automatically acts as a Vapor barrier wouldn’t it be a time saver?

[@trevorb5557]

This is so different than what our basement company did here in the North East. We have a 1950's basement and they used 6" steel studs with R19 throughout. They also just laid the vinyl plank flooring directly to the slab. The space is conditioned with a mini split unit that does heating, cooling and dehumidification. Time will tell how it holds up. Basement has no indication of moisture or musty smell. I can confirm no water events since 2003.

[@devachapman6315]

great video! but one Question: my basement walls where poured in the 1930's and by no mean are straight. how does this effect the installation process of the foam board? any trip and tricks for uneven basement walls?

[@scotta2702]

Thanks for the great videos. You talk about the subfloor system...but don't say who makes it or where to get it. So...who makes this, and where do I get it? Thanks.

[@jennifergetter2116]

Would it be possible to create a subfloor similar to the product you shared but with pressure treated lumber, cut down to about 1", a vapor barrier, and osb? Im trying to finish a room on a budget. I appreciate youre videos, youve helped me on many home reno projects!

[@brett01]

Anymore thoughts on offsetting the stud wall from concrete; seemed like a great idea, especially when building your stud wall on dri-core, creating a continuous air envelope (concrete floor and wall) to allow dispersion (my basement is somewhat dry...no real intrusions, but you can't leave things on the basement floor or they'll start smelling moldy....hence loved the idea of the continuous air space)....i keep reading though this is a terrible idea due to convection looping. Q1 - Is it better to do a flash & batt style insulation where you offset your stud wall an inch or so from the wall, spray foam 1 inch to act as a vapour/moisture barrier then insulate with batt in the walls? Q2 - I was thinking to still use dri-core on the floors, but leave a 1/4 inch out from walls and somewhat of an airspace to allow the concrete floor to breath, but perhaps a tight but to seal is also the way to go.

[@dylanyanchus2166]

I just acquired an older home in Barrie. How do you approach a basement thats partially finished? Rip the walls and studs that are existing, or butt the subfloor to the existing walls. Then frame any new walls on-top of the subfloor? Hope that makes sense baha. Thanks so much! Appreciate your videos.

[@carbide8582]

Is screwing the subfloor panels to the concrete and then securing the bottom of the walls to the top of the subfloor enough? Also what about covering floor drains with subfloor? Is it better to just plug them off?

[@06dak69]

What’s your thoughts on using metal studs instead of wood? It seems like in a basement metal would be idea - no chance of mold, at least in the framing.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

once you isolate the high moisture environment your fine. using a rigid foam first allows a thermal break and is great in the northern climates.

[@cillboon]

Metal framing is very common in Europe. France and Germany for example. These metal rails can also be much thinner than wood if space is limited. Yes you compromise on the R value, but you can make up for some of it by using polyurethane boards instead of fiber glass or rockwool. If you want to see how it works type ossature métallique into KZbin. You might not understand a word, but the visuals will show you everything.

[@crazymoney87]

@@cillboon thanks… any direction for mental stud framing tutorial?

[@whentrichjr]

Have a 1955 home in Michigan and needed to put in reinforcement beams (I-beam, 4-1/4" deep) to fix foundation cracks/bowing. Any thoughts on applying insulation/finish wall for that situation?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

in your case I would suggest tyvek on the walls and then frame 2x4 with a 2" space like new home construction. use R20 insulation ij the stud cavities. Cheers! Not perfect but not terrible either. Or you can spray foam if the cost is not too prohibitive.

[@rEdHoTcHiLiPePPEr411]

Thank you so much for the video. Really helpful especially when you are rebuilding your basement. Can you use rigid foam if there are exposed tie rods?

[@jzam5426]

Thanks for the video! Do you know if we need to add insulation to the basement ceiling?

[@wensny6281]

Great video, 1 question. How would you install electric heated floor and ceramic tile over this floor system? Screw panels to concrete, Schluter Ditra, thinset with heating cables, ceramic tile over the top is what I’m thinking. Thanks!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

if using that system simply add the schluter membrane to the concrete floor and then cable and tile. no need to consider moisture transfer when using electric heat you rick tile failure on a subfloor that thin.

[@wensny6281]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY older house make a difference? 1930’s, basement floor poured 1970’s, unknown vapor barrier. Fairly dry climate, less then 10”/year, zone 5b, colder winters.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

subfloor protects you from more than just old technolgy..it also protects you from water events that you may not have considered. Cheers!

[@randomdude3066]

Have you looked at Dricore's Insul-Armor product? It's 4'x2' sheets of rigid foam, no OSB. Much lighter, easier to cut. Tong and groove. Dricore says you can frame on top of it.

[@Lithail]

What about an uneven concrete floor , I was thinking of making 1.5" floor joists and shim them as needed. how to I protect that from collecting moisture?

[@stk9463]

There are plastic shims specifically made for these drycore subfloors. They go under to lift the drycore sheets to level. That would be the best. Second best would be to use a self leveling concrete to level and then drycore on top (what I did). Third, you can cut your own shims from pressure treated. I believe pt directly on concrete is *not* to code - but you will likely not have any issues.

[@painteater19]

Would you not pour a leveling compound here???

[@Stuglamp2009]

1. After you put the poly vapour barrier on top of the 2x4 wall, what do you do with the bottom edge? What does that get sealed to? 2. Is this type of subfloor sufficient to install ceramic/porcelain tile on top? Or is there another product you'd put on top first? Thanks!!!