The CHEAP EVO 6 has TOO MANY ISSUES

We fix all the small issues we have on our 4G63 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Evo 6:
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DISCLAIMER:
Speed Academy videos are solely for entertainment purposes. Never perform any modifications to your vehicle that will void your warranty or in any way violate your local road going laws. We assume no liability for property damage or injury as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information provided at your own risk.

[@jamest5149]

Real world working on cars... not the KZbin world where everything is simple and works out every time. 👍

[@dantew2942]

So you’re saying that you prefer detailed and complex builds videos verses superficial builds

[@The_One_Over_There]

probably, to be honest i prefer the same. I want to see the struggle and unexpected problems that may occur ending to a nice result and not a fantasy world with a simple thing where it's mostly just sunshine and lollipops from the beginning to the end

[@bonjouravecuns]

Nice to see that it doesn’t just happen to me!

[@jonhorskey4600]

I agree, I enjoy the thought behind a lot of what they do. You can tell they aren't pro's. They read manuals, watch videos. What I like is they approach a build like any of us would. Bunch of research, talk to someone who knows something. Then read up and watch videos as you go. A lot of what they do also applies to general auto repair. Stuck bolts, wrong wiring, things like that apply to any project. These guys also put out good, long videos.

[@marc9283]

weld a nut on the broken bolt. the extra heat from the welding also helps with loosening it.

[@sf2372]

this is the way fwd boys

[@HRawesomesauce]

Try to fit the ground to the nut. Sometimes the current can "semiweld" the bolt in the hole. Never had this problem when using the ground on the nut.

[@lowbob1999]

HRawesomesauce never had that problem... how the hell are you going to ground to the nut and hold it at the same time just to rip the ground off so you can turn it out while it’s still red

[@TheZohanLohan]

@@lowbob1999 you have to let it cool a bit or else the weld will just twist and break

[@benjamindavidson632]

What's even easier is to weld a washer to it first because its easier to weld then weld a nut on

[@birdsnestfishing698]

The end was my favorite part of today’s struggle lol after all the hard ship you finally catch a break and get stuff to work and boom no sound 😂

[@philou9102]

it's so sad there's always something going wrong on your project but I don't know how but you always keep your smile and that's why I love your videos !

[@MrVajutza]

So nice of Pete and Dave to build this right hand drive beast, how much for delivery to Australia 🇦🇺

[@nz.Frequency]

For the boost gauge, the instructions have the 12v wire connected to "switched 12v" but I think what this actually means is the 12v signal from the key when it is in the IGN position (OFF > ACC > IGN > START). Both the radio and the cigarette lighter runs of the ACC circuit which will drop the 12v signal when cranking (in Japanese cars anyway, I haven't worked on any American ones). I'm thinking when you said that you went directly off the ignition that you also went to that ACC circuit that time. There will be a 12v ignition wire in one of the plugs that connected into the factory instrument cluster as it gets powered up in the IGN position.

[@harryhernandez8478]

refreshing to see "real world" problems with your builds. most channels just edit them out. Thanks for showing the good, bad and ugly.

[@hyundaiverna]

Hahaha that looks like a typical wrenching day of mine: simple thing turn into a multiple days, broken tools, wrong parts and a lot of frustration

[@jcwat]

Your a saint for keeping that smile on your face while everything that could go wrong did go wrong

[@TheStwat]

I love how you guys show everything, warts and all. What you've done wrong and how you fix and overcome such issues. It's like a breath of fresh air compared to many other channels who magically seem to get everything right the first time.

[@Infinitas3]

Oh man, as a previous owner of 3 DSMs, I couldn't help but chuckle at your trials and tribulations with the ABS sensor. Oh so many memories of breaking the heads off of bolts at 11PM and knowing what was a 30 min job is now a whole weekend. Good stuff bud 👍

[@lindkvistandreas]

sorry to see the frustration, it does help us project car owners though.. sometimes you just have one of those days!.. awesome build, looking forward to seeing next vid of progress, keep up the good work!

[@helplmchoking]

These guys make my perfect content, a lot like some of the work MCM does actually. Showing you the parts that don't work, building cars that aren't 4 digit Dyno queens or all about bodykits and form over function. Just cool cars, made to be fun to drive and a couple dudes having some fun!

[@walterharris6191]

You guys deserve a like just for dealing with all that! Thems are the worst days but on the bright side you got them all fixed!

[@ronan7812]

Use a pneumatic micro pencil die grinder with 2mm carbide ball tip and grind out the bolt. The carbide will be tough enough to cut through the broken drills stuck in there. It's slow and tricky but it can be done.

[@jasoneyles3746]

I had the same battle on my Evo 6 regaurding the ABS sensor. Was meant to be an easy fix but broke the bolt then had to drill the sensor out like you. Such a battle but seams to be a common problem. Great videos guys !

[@CWJGARAGE]

Those AEM analogue boost gauges have always done that. After going back and forth with them for a few months trying to sort the issue on two different boost gauges I gave up and went to an electronic one. It works fine.

[@paulobarata7163]

For the pressure gauge, check if you didn’t switch the cables (constant positive and the on/off positive ). When you switch off the key, he will loose power completely

[@mechmike4349]

A nut that fits over the broken bolt. Weld it on. Back it out. Sometimes soaking it with brake fluid afterwords helps 2. Sometimes though you dont always win without doing damage.

[@TheGCJourney]

I feel your frustration man! You guys are my heroes! Can't always be a smooth sail but you sometimes you win and sometimes you learn! Chin up!

[@mrnicktoyou]

I prefer the factory instrument cluster. Just saying...

[@GTFORZA]

Boost gauge is probably on the load reduction circuit.

[@danielkellum8024]

Thank you for not showing an overly polished display of what people want working on cars to be. I've learned what to expect if I buy a rust belt car.

[@flatfourwgn]

Most vehicles have accessories on load reduction circuits (such as radio and lighter) that switch off during the start sequence. I feel your pain, I've been there before when absolutely nothing goes right all day long.

[@kalebthompson1]

I wired my boost gauge power off the headlight switch. It worked flawlessly for me.

[@kdogdaddy007]

I just went through this with some 05 Lancer Ralliart Spindles. It was an absolute pain, just like you are showing us. Both the sensor was ceased and the bold snapped.

[@carnyx_]

I feel you Pete with that hub problem, I've been working on my Legacy GT for 2 days now trying to replace the Trailing Arm bushings so I can finally put in my coilovers and it's been a nightmare. Ended up defeated this afternoon and limped it over to my local shop so they can try. KZbin always has videos showing what to do but now showing the struggles of seized and rusty bolts!

[@michaelyoung323]

Great video, appreciate you took the time to show how to fix your mistakes

[@christopherhusta9915]

This was literally me trying to pull the motor off a log splitter. Dad was like hey, this will be a 5 min job. Head snapped off. Torched it. Cut a groove. Soaked it in PB plaster. Nothing worked. Drilled it out and re taped it. 5 min job turned into 3 hours.

[@jaakkoovaska609]

Maybe the good old "welded nut" technique would work?

[@Grooove_e]

Yes absolutely

[@MrBenstero]

Also with your groove you could try an impact screwdriver. The kit you hammer on the back of the screwdriver and it turns with hammer hits. Helped me unscrew a ton of seized/broken hardware.

[@furikuri005]

Oh man, this one was a rough one for you guys. And funny enough its always the last quality control type of things that really give you trouble on projects, so i feel your pain, we all do!

[@jp2246]

Wow, bad day(s) for the Speed Academy crew, pretty much sums up my DIY projects. Lots of salt in the winter where I live and that alone makes all the difference when it comes to vehicle projects.

[@lavachemist]

I had the same issue with removing ABS sensors on my Forester. I feel your pain!

[@ethansadventuresWI]

I miss the old sport compact car magazines. This brings me back to those project car articles in the back of the magazine.

[@PenguinScotty]

"Subarus are easier to work on" words that will make any man tremble in fear. Wheel speed sensors are the bane of my existence as well. Even on Southern cars it's a pain, can only be worse with stuff up North. Still, looking forward to seeing the car rip!

[@trevorflanagan4873]

Thanks for showing what working on cars is all about:)

[@GarageShopbr]

about the swhitched power. All cars have 2 types of it. One is always on, the other one switches off when the starter is on (I'm shure you already knew it, rsrs). I hooked all my gages to the always on, never had any ishues! Love the channel, keep doing the great work!! Regars, Ricardo Campos - all the way from Brazil! ;)

[@lukeluke5501]

I feel every painful minute (hour, day?) of this. Thanks for showing the real deal! While chasing an oil leak on my motorcycle I needed to remove the exhaust. Snapped a stud. Broke off a bolt extractor bit trying to fix that. Now I have a spare 20k mile engine and a new-to-me 4k mile engine that will go in, thanks to ebay and my ham-handedness.

[@JohnsonMac]

Frustrations are always a part of working on older cars. Good to see that in full view here. Definitely worth it once you're behind the wheel!

[@sullygtx9350]

As for the broken bolt, when they are that difficult, use a dremel with the tiny carbide bit to make a hold in the very center. It's tedious and painfully slow but after an hour you'll have a nice indent to get in there with a larger drill bit. When the bolt breaks its never a flat even surface to get a pilot hole started, which is why the carbide dremel bit is handy.

[@BIGSMOKE-bl2lq]

Run a wire off a constant 12v and a relay from the ecu supply will get 12v while starting but won't interfere with the ecu

[@MrJasons9]

Keep up the great work guys

[@xozindustries7451]

A lot of cars kill accessory power during cranking, we used both the cranking power from the started and accessory power with a one way transistor I think to keep the power during both

[@0liverGM]

Love the series!

[@eugenestewart3716]

I've had luck with a hammer and impact drift (after slotting the top of the stud), Another is to use left-hand drills so that when you get the walls thin it grabs and winds the stud out.

[@radio8761]

In regards to the bolt stuck on the hub you can weld a open end nut and use whatever sucker you need you remove.

[@joshwalling4633]

You could tap into the wiper motors (which should be switched). You can check to see if power drops off by turning on your wipers while starting the car to see if they lose power.

[@nothingsworking]

I usually weld a nut on the broken bolt then a bit after cool it with water (I know, metallurgy, shock, you shouldn't do it, whatever) and that helps a lot to separate the 2 pieces. sometimes it takes a lot of tries but its much better than trying to drill out a tiny bolt and messing it up even more

[@paulruggieri4967]

Both rear abs sensor bolts on my Evo 9 snapped like that. I just zip tied the sensor to the knuckle. Although I didn't have to replace my sensors so they are siezed in there anyway and not going anywhere even without the zip tie. I had only tried to remove them before POR 15ing my knuckles

[@mr.nobody9646]

In my opinion the stock meter is looking much better

[@heinrichr]

Had the same issue on removing the ABS Sensor on my Evo VI. Really tough job LOL

[@dude_1965]

zip clip and silicone!!!! should've used gaffer tape :)))) Brilliant episode guys, hugely enjoyed thank you.

[@ryanpartlan5813]

lol Pete's "I am doing a lot of complaining because I am frustrated" so Canadian. Even when you complain about your complaining it doesn't sound like complaining.

[@boostxrabbit87]

For the Boost gauge, you’d want Ignition 2 power (switched 12v, but stays active during starting). The fuel pump system should work.

[@InitialDIYmods]

Yeah, you need a capacitor to or simply circuit to delay that. Cranking takes a huge amount of load and it will drop everything in the car to like 9 volts which can reset gauges or sensor control boxes and the OEM ECU usually has something similar set up. This happens a lot with wideband O2 controllers Edit: Just got to the point in the video where you fixed it lol

[@mnickvideo]

Hey PT. You should add some delay in the software for the fuel gauge on the CD5. Your fuel level will be all over the place on the track.

[@barrettrieger6631]

Soak it in aerokroil overnight before starting a rusty job, center punch the broken bolt before you start drilling , use the biggest drill but you can. Or use a small carbide burr on a Dremel pen attachment

[@75randomdan75]

Once you break a drill bit in something you will really struggle to get that out as they are typically pretty hard. You could try a dremmel and one of those stone grinding heads to get the drill bit pieces out but to be honest once a bit of corrosion sets in that sensor is staying where it is!

[@jah2mon]

Second this, carbide bits on a dremel will grind out broken bolts and drill bits

[@anomamos9095]

One thing you can do with a winy pump is put gear oil in it to see if the noise goes away. If it does you can swap the oil back to atf or whatever is specified. Don’t drain it dry to do so. A Teflon or molybdenum based additive can get rid of noises and close up minor leaks also. If the noise is just from air the gear oil trick will shut it up. If it is from wear the additives may work especially if you are an unscrupulous seller.

[@djwarner7144]

If the Ignition switch is like my Miata, there are two ACC power switches. One is on throughout the ACC/ON/START sequence and the other switch makes on ACC/ON but breaks on START. Looks like your boost gage is powered through the latter switch.

[@cocoloco1994]

Well you did that abs sensor half assed. You can weld a nut on top of broken bolt and slowly loosen it.

[@doctorlobsteroctopus]

Rough day in the Speed Academy shop! Turned out good though.

[@thekamalwhf]

Use a relay for the switched power that is triggered from the head unit/ cigarette lighter or any other switched power, and have a new 12v line for all the accessories from a clean power sources.

[@JackBurton871]

Add a fuse to a better key on power source from the fuse box. There might even be some KEY ON sources for fuses that are not used such as "rain sensing wipers" or something like that. There should be some not affected by cranking.

[@buddahae86]

Appreciate the real world struggles. Keen to see it all complete

[@ludpilo8876]

try a extractor reverse thread or try something like the blue point 19c extractor u drill and hammer a tool thru then unscrew part number e1020

[@helplmchoking]

Hot tip on fuel gauges, your digital gauge measures it linear while stock gauges usually don't, they stay around full for a while then drop fast through the middle and hang around a quarter full, it's apparently tuned to show what customers want to see. So your digital gauge is probably much more accurate!

[@ProModsPerformance]

There will be an output off the column that is hot in ignition and during crank. The ECU will use this for reference. Else if its power fell, the car could never start. Probe around and find a circuit thats hot with key on, but doesnt fall during crank.

[@lowbob1999]

Didn’t see you use locktite for the helicoil...helps a lot you can use blue or red.

[@ninopanino10]

I get the advantage of the aem cluster but man those oem blue gauges would look phenomenal in the car

[@randol160]

Replace both sides of the wiring clip for the abs. that way you can use whatever wiring clip you have. it's just a 2 pin waterproof wiring clip.

[@AaronHendu]

I remember breaking off a bolt for the EGR tube on a Ford Focus...after many, many failed attempts at extracting what was left of the bolt, I ended up having to call a machine shop to get it out...which they did easily while the head was still on the engine in the car.. Was frustrating and embarrassing...I don't even like thinking about it lol

[@frozenpete788]

What about the right size nut and a tig weld on top? Since you have the welder?

[@DIYAUTOCAR]

For your wiring issue, you were tapping into accessory wires.(12v outlet/cig lighter and radio) Those will cut out during crank. What you likely want is a true "ignition" wire that doesn't cut out. On Mitsubishi's of those years often it is a black with a white stripe at the ignition switch. Even if it's not that color, there definitely will be one. Just test the thick wires in the ignition switch harness and you'll see one that will keep 12v even during crank. I guarantee there will be one there. Likely black/white since it looks like that is the color for a lot of 99 Mitsubishi cars.

[@billyquist9237]

Voltage drop: bad ground straps or more ground straps or starter grounding

[@marc9283]

nice Lambo you got there in the background

[@tennyturner1671]

i cant see it haha timestamp?

[@2988jake]

If the bolt still has a bit of material sticking out(is not recessed in the hole), you can take a welder and carefully add material to the bolt for a better grip. Also make sure to use a lot of heat, it’s more important to get the hub hot and the bolt, so the bolt hole will expand a little. Good luck! I’m from WI so I feel your pain 😂

[@2988jake]

A welder is also a good way to get steel studs out of an aluminum head if the stud breaks halfway down the hole ☝️

[@SamS-lv1hy]

It's thank the Lord not thank the Stars. Good stuff guys

[@rreyes8973]

Question, for the fuel gauge. where is it reading from? is it sending the info from the stock fuel pressure sensor or did you have to install additional sensor to get that reading on the dash..

[@darrentopham8165]

Damd those speed sensors. Ive done all 4 corners on my 6 they are near impossible to get out without taking the whole knuckle off the car. snapped 2 of the bolts tried everything to remove them to no avail. Resorted to just filing back the snapped bolt so its flush with the knuckle,painting it then just pushing the speed sensor in the hole and leaving it at that. The E6 speed sensors are a very tight fit ive found and so theres no way its going to work its way out. The friction alone has kept them in there for years now.

[@Jeffball610]

I'm sure the ABS sensor itself was bad, but if you ever need Mitsubishi connectors, Sheridan Engineering can probably help. I got an entire engine connector set from them when I rewired my car. The leaking oil cap is a typical thing. Mitsubishi does have a rubber gasket on the cap that can be replaced, or you can get an entire EVO 8/9 cap. They should fit all DOHC 4G63 valve covers. You can also bend the metal tabs a bit to get more pressure on it for a quick fix.

[@marcelwessel839]

I would first verify that 12v constant and 12v switched at boost gauge are correctly wired. If that's all correct you need to find a switched 12v that doesn't turn off while cranking, for example one for the ecu or the dash maybe. Greetings from germany.

[@justinrobertson5493]

Try welding a nut onto the bolt. It'll give you something easy to turn and put lots of heat into the bolt to break it loose.

[@deano_s2k]

Good stuff boys!

[@kyleroberts4841]

Wooo! No better way to start off the day than some SA!!

[@BjornFSE]

nice determination

[@Daintegralsturbo]

The boost gauge probably need to be wired using a 4pin relay. I had a similar problem with my innovate boost/afr gauge.

[@twebb1]

I would love to do this to my future car

[@garage_nostalgia]

My experience with broken bolts is the smallest flame on oxygen acetylene heat soak the shit out of the bolt and the iron its seized in and work it out little by little, it will take forever but it works.

[@TheHolyKnight932]

If a welded nut onto the broken bolt doesn't work, surely some high speed steel drill bits or maybe if you really want to spend the money, some tungsten carbide bits might work

[@pawak2001]

Weld a nut on it. The heat from welder will loosen the seized bolt and with the nut you can back it out easier. Make sure the nut of oversized so it slides over the top of the seized bolt.

[@ashnukairugalbandara8932]

As for the Boost Gauge wiring, you might have switched the 12V constant and the 12V switched. I'd suggest swap the 12V constant and the 12V switched wires and give it a try :) I know this sounds like a stupid thing to do, but I've had a similar issue and it turned out I've swapped the wires 😂

[@dafastone]

Which launch scan tool are you using? Does it do the advanced feature on the Mitsubishi?

[@JKRmsrt]

Hub in a vice. Old style hammer impact driver mad smack it out.

[@timocallaghan4408]

Capacitor sounds like a good and cheap solution to the boost gauge issue. For the ABS terminals, you can resuscitate them by soaking them in a citric acid solution and scrubbing them with a brillo pad. You can buy citric acid powder in any supermarket, it's used for baking, and it converts the rust into a slag that's easily removed. Just google 'citric acid rust removal'

[@OnlyUseMeChin]

Have you double checked the gauge is wired the right way around? Sounds like you’ve wired the constant to accessories and vice versa.

[@b5454]

Weld a washer to the bolt then a nut on the washer then crank it out with a ratchet.

[@WorkinDuck]

I always screw a nut on top and weld it on the inside. The heat losens the screw and the weld on the nut is usually strong enough

[@DJ_Driven]

There are specialty companies that use a device to burn out the broken bolt without harming the threads it's pretty cool.

[@christiantuai1574]

Get your welder out, lay a tack down on the stud so a bolt can sit over it and then just weld the bolt to the tack, fill the hole completely and then back the screw out