Рет қаралды 12,242
Back on the blacktop and on the road northbound, we were back to the original plan of stopping in at Allaudin Lakes.
Touted as being a more difficult track to get into the pictures of the lake at the end made the prospect of a fun 4wd track even better. The road passed through several towns, full of some of the most welcoming and friendly people we have met. These people live a pretty remote simple life though whether in the slightly more built up village, or a river stone hut in the fields they were all smiling and waving as we passed.
The second half of the track is where the fun began as the valley narrowed to a chasm; one of those places that makes you wonder how the very first road was cut through. A few months earlier in the winter beyond the gap would’ve been impassable, sealing off the small villages to foot traffic only. Narrow tight tracks like this make us glad we picked the Troopy, anything bigger would’ve made accessing locations like this impossible.
We arrived at the end of the track in the fading sunlight and found a spot to setup on a nice big grassed area next to the stream. Unlike Iskanderkul these lakes need to be hiked to so with the weather on our side again that’s exactly what we planned to do the following morning (Not without a few hours of appreciation to take in the incredible scenery first). The hike to the main lake is a casual slightly undulating climb through cow fields, rocky pine forrest, and past small crystal blue lakes. Surprisingly the water from the main lake doesn’t flow directly down to the other lakes though seeps through the ground and out into spontaneous waterfalls in the grass creating new streams across the valley. Although going for a dip would’ve been ‘refreshing’ there were signs saying not to, not sure if this is for belief reasons or they simply don’t want to treat you for hypothermia!
We were traversing this part of the country in spring which meant everything is a lush green and also that it’s not peak tourist season. The Fann Mountains are a popular hiking destination with several peaks to summit and many multi day treks starting from this location. Thankfully being the very start of the season we had to place to ourselves.
After staying for a second night we made up way back down the valley, past the friendly locals and back onto the main road. There has been comments that the roads in Tajikistan are terrible. On the Pamir Highway that would be correct for the majority at altitude, though the altitude is the reason they are terrible. With the extreme weather conditions in that region the roads are ravaged each year. The infrastructure isn’t there to support year round maintenance so the roads are in a constant state of repair. North of Dushanbe however (apart from ‘the tunnel’) the main roads are great quality and we enjoyed the flowing drive following the raging river down the valley, out of the mountains and into the open farming fields. That’ll be the end of the mountains for a very long time…..
At the border town we went through the normal formalities of finalising paperwork and money exchange. We stopped in at a restaurant for lunch (unfortunately our footage of the restaurant, food, and lavish wedding ceremonies have gone ‘missing’) and as the location had a great outlook over the river we ended up staying for hours to complete our border prep. The day became long and the restaurant owners were happy for us to camp out the back. The following morning we were greeted with another amazing gesture of Tajikistan hospitality when a man attending the restaurant bought over a family size serving of plov, fruit, and bread. He spoke no english and bought our breakfast feast over for no other reason then he was happy we were in his country.
So that wraps up our time in Tajikistan, a country which is firmly in our favourites list. With the ease we could access the harsh remote conditions, huge dramatic scenery, ancient culture, and warm hospitality it only confirms the reasons why we chose this style of travel. Reliving it though these videos and being able to share that with you all makes the effort that goes into making all worthwhile also.
Join us in the next episode were we cross the border to Uzbekistan.
Thanks for watching!
Jolie and Mark
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