The Kettle Dyeing Process: One way to dye

Notes about the video (scroll down!):
1. Within kettle dyeing, there are lots and lots of ways to lay down the color. I am only showing you ONE way to do it
2. Low immersion is subjective, so use your judgement to achieve the effect you want. If you want more mixing of the dyes, add more water so the dye can move around. You should, however, ensure there's enough water to fully saturate the wool.
3. You can add your dyes all at once, like I do in the video, or you can add them in stages (ie., when one color is mostly absorbed, you can add the next one). Just note that this becomes a 'hot pour' method and the dye won't migrate as much because the presence of heat will cause the dye to adhered to the wool almost immediately. I demonstrate the 'cold pour' method where the dyes go in before the wool comes up to temperature (about 185F); this results in subtle variation.
Process:
1. Wet the wool in warm water and a drop of soap; I use an eco-friendly dish detergent and 1 drop is all you need!
2. Remove the wool, replace with plain water, add your citric acid (15g/1pound of wool) or vinegar (1 cup/1pound of wool), add your wool.
3. Arrange it as you like, knowing that the method you choose to place your wool will impact the final result.
4. Turn on the heat source and add in your dyes!
5. Do any gentle fussing to move the color around, if you'd like.
6. Cover and monitor to prevent boiling, for 20-30 minutes.
7. Allow to cool completely, then rinse.
8. Press in towels or spin dry. Hang to air dry.
Dyes:
Dye companies will give you recommendations regarding how much wool you can dye with the amount given in the container. If you want a guide on how much dye powder to use, 0.5-1.0% Depth of Shade (DOS) will give you a rich, medium tone for most dye brands. Dharma dyes require about 7g/1pound of wool for a 1.5-2% DOS; Jacquard varies according to the color you're using, from 7g/1pound of wool, up to 85g/1pound of wool(!!!) for 8% DOS. I generally find 0.5% DOS works for most Jacquard dyes and 1.5% for Dharma dyes.
CAUTION:
1. ALWAYS have protective gear. This includes a mask to prevent inhaling dye particles, gloves, clothing (like an apron and dark colored clothing), and googles if desired.
2. ALWAYS work in a clean environment (for safety) and clean up properly afterwards, especially if you dye in your kitchen.
3. NEVER have food or beverages in your dyeing space; cover and/or clear away anything nearby that could get covered by dye particles.
4. I prefer to work with dye solutions because the dye powder can easily get picked up by gentle air currents and inhaled or moved around in the space. Dye mixed with water is the recommended way dye with older children, not with the powders.
5. Only use containers specifically for dyeing, not for any food prep or cooking. Traces may still remain on the utensils and vessels after washing, so it is safer to have designated gear for dyeing.
6. ALWAYS supervise children when dyeing; do not use powders with children, prepare solutions in advance for their safety. They need protective gear that fits their smaller size. Use your judgement when organizing the dyeing space and which activities are suitable for them, given their age and maturity level (ie., let them dye but you handle the heating sources), and for deciding whether this is appropriate activity for the specific child/children. Dyeing needs to be taken seriously by you since children emulate adults. It can be an enjoyable group activity and it teaches children the importance of handling chemicals safely.
DISCLAIMER:
Please use common sense when handling dye, both as powder and in a water solution. It can seriously cause harm to your mucus areas (eyes, nose), skin, and when inhaled and/or ingested. I cannot be held responsible for any inappropriate or misuse of dye powders. Exercise caution by keeping ventilation in active use (like a window or door or extractor fan, etc.) and keep pets and small children away from the process (hot stoves!). Furthermore, stay attentive to the dyes and the stoves/slow cookers during the process. Accidents can happen, so have old towels/cloths handy to mop up spills. Protective gear is essential for your personal safety. Dyeing may not be appropriate for very young children since they need to understand the importance of safety. Use your personal judgement here.
Music (royalty free): 'Piano Moment' www.bensound.com
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[@laughingdovefarm3311]

Thank-you for this video. I dye my own wool fiber ( I have Jacob & Icelandic sheep) and I picked up a few more tips ! You explain things in such a clear, concise & pleasant way.

[@ExpertlyDyed]

Oh, what a great combo! Jacob wool is so underrated and you get such lovely variety. Thanks for watching!

[@jirup]

I do a variation of low immersion dyeing. Instead of heating on the stove, I put my trays into a little greenhouse and dye it with the heat of the Australian sun. I can process about 3 kgs a week on the spring sunshine.

[@ExpertlyDyed]

I would love to do this when we have our own place. It's tough to do as a renter, and now we don't have a garden anymore. I'd love to do more solar powered techniques!

[@keturahspencer]

I also have catering dishes for dyeing. I don't trust my stove though. So, I put it in the oven at 200° F.

[@ExpertlyDyed]

I know what you mean. One of my vogue trays wobbles (probably warped) when it heats up on the stove. 😵

[@Alopex1]

I think it's really great that you included such lengthy and detailed safety instructions. Speaking from experience, it's VERY easy to mess up, and suddenly you have toxic dying dust everywhere. So any tips in this regard are highly valuable, especially for newbie dyers. One other issue which one could talk about is what to do with the liquid left over at the end of the process. The natural decision is to pour it down the toilet, but the toxic chemicals in it do not make that a very environmentally friendly option. Sadly, the only real alternative is to bottle up the liquid and then take it to a processing plant, which is a huge hassle and not really viable. Furthermore, a question: do you have experience with using natural tannins as mordants for the wool? I'm thinking acorns or gall nuts/oak apples, for instance. Supposedly, these work as mordants and *should* be alternatives to alum. What's your take on this?

[@ExpertlyDyed]

I spent 3 months researching before I started dyeing. I was close to a chemical drop off point at my alma mater so it was easy for me back then. Now, I just move it all with me because I know what you mean. Dilution also works for small quantities but it is very important to be mindful of setting up your space properly and using ONLY the dyes that you need. If you're struggling, try letting your wool/yarn sit in the dyebath another 8-12 hours and see if a longer absorption was all you needed. I used natural dyes for my MSc experiments, but never used gall. Have you heard of Jenny Dean and her Wild Color books? I highly recommend (though not technically good advice from the historical/prehistoric point of view).

[@mindyalbright4491]

Explicit safety instructions for a first time chemical dyer. (I have dyed for many years, and still avoid chemical dying.)

[@ExpertlyDyed]

I can't emphasise safety enough! It's really serious stuff but there are dyers out there who don't practice enough. I've heard of dyers from the 70s suffering from lung cancer after dyeing with powders, not solutions. It's terrifying.

[@leosmith6507]

wonderful video(s) I do have one question, I do have a Powder pigment, that can be made into ink or paint, I assume I can use this pigment? I was some rich blue yarn, so I was gifted some Faulkands Marinio DK undyed just processed, the pigment is in its raw form with no additives, here is an excerpt; --- "Synthetic mineral pigment. Ultramarine is famous for its characteristic bright blue hue. The pigment is non-toxic, lightfast and suitable for most artistic techniques but has limited alkali resistance and greys in acidic media. This pigment is the standard grade for oil, glue and lime. Chemical description: Sodium-aluminium-sulfo-silicate. Pigment Blue 29, C.I. 77007 Lightfastness - medium: 8 (1 is bad, 8 is best) Lightfastness - thinned: 8 (1 is bad, 8 is best) Lightfastness - concentrated: 8 (1 is bad, 8 is best) Colour Index: PB 29.77007 Suitability: Acrylics, Lime / Fresco, Oil, Tempera, Watercolor / Gouache Colour: Blue Form: Powder Solubility in water: Insoluble" --- end of excerpt. because it greys in acid media and I will be using vinegar (white distilled) I will test 1g to 10 ml of liquid and see how bad it greys but in your opinion will it work or not? if not I will go get the Dylon version and follow those instructions. but I want to thank you for your very informative video :) leo

[@ExpertlyDyed]

Hmm, fascinating. Yes, I'd experiment and then throw it in a sunny spot for a while. Wear a good mask when working with powders. Record your notes, then try a stronger/weaker concentrate to see how much the shade varies. Looks like you'll be using vinegar, but could try citric acid too. Stay safe!

[@leosmith6507]

@@ExpertlyDyed thank you