The Long Awaited 6.4 Powerstroke Turbo Replacement Video, Part 1

This took way longer to put together than I wanted, but it is done now. I know it's not the best, but it's something. Enjoy. Or don't, your choice.
Diesel Tech Ron's Video:
• Ford 6.4 powerstroke t...
Turbochargers:
www.dieselogic...
You can get the turbos from Rock Auto, but you'll end up paying about the same price. If I forgot to list something here, let me know

[@kevinoneill41]

Yes get that upper EGR cooler pipe out of there they have a tendency t to crack at the lower mounting bracket causing an exhust leak and posibly a flame out area. The put the exhaust block off plate on the right side ''Y'' up pipe and reroute the engine back presure sencer to the center of the block off plate just drill and tap it.

[@kevinoneill41]

If your just going to jack up the front clip like 6'' or so it really helps to get at those up pipes bolts loosen the back cab bolts but dont take them right out take the front 4 cab and fender bolts out and just start watching all those other things so you don't start stretching things to far. Yes, take the air box etc.. And battery boxes etc off maybe your steering coupler and break lines at the booster and start jacking and blocking the front cab up Watch all those other things you should get a good 6'' at the top of the up pipes great for removing the EGR upper cooler putting in the block off plate and back pressure sensor in just watch you don't stretch cables and elec. Harnesses etc.. This should give you some room to get on all those things watch the upper rad hose too you could take it right out just drain the rad down 1/2 way

[@kevinoneill41]

PS you want to watch the fan maybe take the shroud and fan out. I didn't but just watch it all closely

[@amrindersingh5962]

I just bought a 6.4 couple of months ago. It's a stock truck. I am getting 28 L/100 kms. How much you getting after exaust delete ? Also I m getting a message on screen to drive to clean exhaust. I have 240000kms on it.

[@Mighty-Quinn]

When the truck decides it's gonna run right (needs another injector right now) we will get anywhere from 18-20 mpg. That's around 14.3L/100Km by my calculations (and I may be off). So yeah, deleting the DPF and such will at least double your fuel economy. Not to mention better power, lower exhaust temps, etc. 240,000Km is around 150k miles, so that's a relatively low mile truck you've got. If you delete it quickly, you *should* be okay for awhile. The one we have has around 280k miles on it (450,000Km) right now, and other than that injector issue, it's not in too bad of shape. You have some potential longevity you could get outta that truck, since it's lower mileage. I assume you're in Canada based on your use of metric (correct me if I'm wrong), so I don't know much about Canadian emission laws, or enforcement thereof. Here in the US they get kinda mad if you get rid of the emissions stuff, but what they don't know won't hurt them lol. My state doesn't inspect vehicles for emissions stuff anyhow. Now as to your "clean exhaust" message, that just means your diesel particulate filter (DPF) needs to be cleaned out. Drive the truck kinda hard (not crazy) for a few dozen miles or so, and it should burn it all out like it's supposed to. That whole process of cleaning the DPF is what kills your fuel economy. Not sure if you're new to a 6.4 or anything, but if you have any other questions I'll be happy to answer them when I can. In any case, good luck with it, cause they can be a mess if you aren't careful.

[@amrindersingh5962]

@Mighty-Quinn Frist of all thank you for the reply. I am from west coast Canada. Yes new to f350 community. So far the truck that I have doest seem to show any issues despite a no. 6 glow plug needs to get changed. I am thinking of selling this truck.

[@Mighty-Quinn]

@@amrindersingh5962 Well its good that you aren't seeing many issues with it yet. Glow plugs aren't too bad to change, even though you gotta take a bunch of stuff off to get to them. Its all about knowing what comes off and how. #6 plug is on the driver's side of the vehicle, which in my view is the easier side to work on. Maybe not with the EGR cooler in the way though............ One of the things I do like about the 6.4 is that it starts pretty easy in the cold. I'll grant you that where you live is probably a lot colder than where I'm at (south central Kansas), but I've never had issues with the 6.4 cold starting. If you do decide to sell it, my advice is to "lose" the emissions stuff. That would involve some reprogramming of the PCM so it knows not to throw error codes for a missing DPF or something. Obviously the whole process is kinda expensive and time consuming, unless you plan on doing it yourself. I know a lot of diesel shops here won't even try to delete trucks anymore, cause the risk is way to high if they were caught. A low mile truck that's deleted (especially an F350) ought to bring a good price, especially in today's market. The engine is the only real issue with that era of Super Dutys, the rest of the truck is pretty solid. They certainly ride better than the 1st generation Super Duty lol

[@amrindersingh5962]

@@Mighty-Quinn if i want it to a good milegage street truck for everyday driving, with a good turbo sound , What would be the optimal tunning kit is out there to install on the truck with removed DPF and EGR . Thank you

[@Mighty-Quinn]

@@amrindersingh5962 Unfortunately, I won't be of much help in the tuning area. The truck we have was deleted years ago, and the guy that did it has since left town. Not really sure what all he did, exactly. (Certainly didn't fix the turbos right lol) I've never had to mess with tuning much, cause that's never been a problem. I may have to soon though, since the truck is having some......issues, lets say. I can however pass on some wisdom from a local mechanic (whose opinion I hold in high regard, since he works on everything), who does have a 6.4 powerstroke. He uses an "HP" tuner, but his tune is hotter than the one we have. I doubt the truck we have was tuned much above factory settings. The mechanic did say a kit like HP has a bunch of built in premade settings you can use, and it's all controlled through a little screen that sits up on your dash by the steering wheel. So theoretically, you can just use a premade setting and be okay. Now as to finding a tune kit: My advice is to look around in the internet for what is available. A lot of tuner manufacturers have disappeared in recent years. Some of the brands I've heard of are HP, Spartan, and MiniMax(?). I would also strongly advise you look around on the Powerstroke forums. Those guys would know what is and isn't available, and also what works best. In my personal opinion, whatever tune you use should be mild. Don't go much beyond the factory settings. This is especially important if you're looking to make it a daily driver, that gets good fuel economy. The 6.4 has great potential to make a ton of power, but the engine is not built heavy enough to handle hotter tunes for long periods. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Been thinking about making a video on this subject, but I'm undecided. Oh, you might look into "powerstrokehelp.com" if you haven't already. They don't have a lot for the 6.4, but there's some other general advice and knowledge you may find useful. EDIT: I am stunned, and found the tuner the guy used on our truck. Only took me like 7 years to figure out what it was. Still don't know how to use it though, but it's an "SCT X4 Power Flash". Outfit is still in business too.

[@dogbonetc7623]

Hey man im having some trouble diagnosing to see if it’s the turbos on my 6.4. It has low miles 80k. Coded are p1035,p132b,p2263. I checked the Actuator and they doesn’t seem to be the problem

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Hmmmm....... The most obvious sign of turbocharger failure would be white smoke pouring out of the tailpipe, and excessive oil consumption. Make sure to check your exhaust pipe connections for oil residue. Some other common symptoms would be random power loss, excessive noise, lack of power, overboosting OR underboosting. The turbos will also make a noise while you're driving, it sounds like it's "de-boosting" (or winding down), but the sounds will be of a more violent nature, if that makes any sense. That could also be the actuator. If you're getting an actuator code, and none of the above symptoms I described, you probably have a bad actuator. There's no way to tell if they're "good" by looking at them or moving that servo arm around. I read somewhere awhile back that there were actuator issues with the 6.4, but we have never had that issue to my knowledge. You can still buy actuators (not cheap though), and apparently there's an upgrade available (which is also not cheap). I understand completely if you don't wanna spend the money, but if that's what broke, then you better get it fixed quickly. These engines cannot deal with problems for very long before they start coming apart. At 80k miles you should be okay, but don't tempt fate. The silver lining here is that you can replace the actuator yourself; it should not be too hard to remove. I say "should", because I've never done an actuator replacement with the cab all the way on; I've only done it with the cab jacked up a few inches with the turbos removed.

[@dogbonetc7623]

@@Mighty-Quinn I appreciate your input! Would smoke still be present with the dpf system?If so I don’t have any smoke coming from the exhaust. I do have a oil leak and have not pin pointed the location. Regarding the actuator, on KOEO the actuator cycled fine. When accelerating it engages and disengages fine. It’s not able to be pushed nor does it move freely. Can the actuator still be the culprit? I’ll probably be changing the map sensor and epb sensor & evr tube as those parts are the cheap replaceable ones. There’s no weird sounds coming from the turbos so I’m sure it’s nothing major. I should add engine is in limp mode with very little boost maybe 10-15psi on max throttle.

[@dogbonetc7623]

@@Mighty-Quinn I should add would an over fill of oil cause anything related to this you think ?

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Oh damn, you still have the DPF on? That would probably catch a lot of oil, yeah. It would let smoke through as well, but not the heavy black smoke, more like the white smoke, which would smell like burning oil. Check the exhaust pipes that are in front of the DPF and see if they have oily residue at the joints. If there isn't any, then your oil loss is probably from that leak you mentioned. Depending on where the leak is and how large it is, that might help discern the actual cause of your issue. If the actuator is moving fine with the KOEO, and during acceleration and deceleration, then it may not be an issue. They are difficult to move by hand, so that's not a problem. The PCM might not have a code for the specific problem, so it's throwing a code for the closest thing it can figure is the problem; in your case this is the actuator. It sounds like your turbos might be okay, based on what you've told me. My guess is that the DPF (and the limp mode) is causing your issue. My strong advice is to get that thing deleted ASAP, because the emissions stuff is what kills these motors faster than anything else. I'm not 100% sure on how to deal with DPF related problems, 'cause the 6.4 I work on didn't have any of it for very long after it was bought. You might drop the DPF and see what it looks like. Now as to your other comment: Overfilling the engine with oil can cause problems, but it depends on how much it was overfilled. The 6.4 powerstroke has like 4 gallons of oil in it, so a quart over the max fill wouldn't hurt it too bad. But a few quarts, a gallon, or more? That might cause some problems. Usually excess oil would be sucked through the CCV/PCV into the intake, and a little is okay. But a lot would just make a mess, *maybe* cause a restriction if there was enough of it. A huge amount of overfill would saturate the CAC, and get pulled into the combustion chamber and burned. Excess crankcase oil would increase the pressure inside the crankcase, which might put strain on piston rings or something similar. Would any of that cause the problems you're having? Not likely, based on what you've told me.

[@dogbonetc7623]

@@Mighty-Quinn Yea I’m in California unfortunately. This thing isn’t even carb compliant starting this year. It’s a f550 with a chip box. I honestly just plan on fixing it up and selling it to another state. If I remember I checked the past history records and I believe the actuator had already been replaced. I’ll have to double check. This thing is beast thought even in limp. I’ve probably put 5 tons in the box and it doesn’t even struggle. Probably not good for it though. Doesn’t overheat at least. It’s been sitting for a while I’ll. Thanks for your help and quick responses. I went to a diesel shop once and was told I should just scrap it haha. I bought it at auction as a work truck. I didn’t know the history of 6.4s

[@JoseMartinez-mo1zu]

🇲🇽💙