The new Sovol SV08 looks a little bit like a Voron 2...?

[@RhamKot]

The comedic timing on the cuts, the link having "Sovoron" in it... This whole thing is just *chefskiss*

[@Discohydrus]

There are some hilarious cuts in here.

[@LostInTech3D]

You're the first person to get the joke I think 🤣

[@802Garage]

@@LostInTech3D I enjoyed. 😂

[@dingdingdingdiiiiing]

The one at 10:48 really got me. I'm almost ashamed of it, because it's so simple. I guess that means I'm simple. :(

[@ellafoxoo]

@@LostInTech3D The cuts are really good XD Actually glad you didn't go all technical, it's so easy to get carried away

[@philharris9631]

Damn … even I managed to get that they were on purpose! 😂

[@dingdingdingdiiiiing]

I'm always a bit distrustful with new printers that seem amazing, because they tend to show, in time, that they have quirks and may have flaws that one needs to work around or have all kinds of small problems, that grow into annoyances. In this day and age, at a "normal" price range, there definitely will be nothing catastrophically wrong, but you don't want to be annoyed every other print, right? So no matter what the early bird price is going to be, I prefer to wait and see what the community says. At this point I'm only willing to accept plug and play, not try, fail, tinker and pray.

[@LostInTech3D]

Fair points that can be applied to any tech tbh

[@hasserecht3678]

Name a single printer that hasn't any annoyances? I say that there is none.

[@rarbiart]

it seems to be really difficult to iron out all issues... and those being cloud-only or barely working without cloud: big no-go for me... it's really difficult right now.

[@hasserecht3678]

@@rarbiart it all depends on personal preferences. I love my bambu cloud. Everything is so seamless. But the Bambus have other typical CoreXY issues you can't come by because ... Well they are not designed to be tinkered with.

[@ezkataz]

The SV08 doesn't seem, in anyway, amazing to me just a promising option, Ok, let's start with the mandatory requirement: "SV08 IS NOT A VORON", that being said (I don't really care about the stupid communication plan) as it is proposed, it seem a decent entry point to the core XY world, coming with full of flaws - at first look - nothing seem irremediable in the future. Hence $599 for a core XY starting point seems like a bargain we can work on, no?

[@mr_voron]

“My hot take is..” CUT. 😂 Bravo, that was some top notch humor.

[@MrZenzio]

Love the This Old Tony -style presentation.

[@LostInTech3D]

Aha 😁

[@ellafoxoo]

First person to put a Stealthburner toolhead on there with Klicky Probe gets a cookie.

[@robhall5622]

The enclosure is on the Sovol page now in the accessories section (along with an upgraded touchscreen etc). It has a hinged lid, magnetic doors etc. Looks ok depending on price, and how well it can be sealed.

[@geauxracerx]

And this video only made me want one more. THANK YOU!

[@geauxracerx]

The thank you is half sarcastic, cuz I ain’t got the money right now🥴

[@glittalogik]

This actually seems like at least a proof-of-concept for something I'd consider buying. Even if it's not perfect, it still looks like a super reasonable price-to-performance ratio right out of the box (with proper setup/calibration/testing). Just as importantly it's close enough to vanilla Klipper that I could set it up just how I want it, and close enough to Voron hardware spec to open up at least some of the infinitely branching modding/upgrading paths there. The weird nozzle is disappointing but like others have said, it's only a matter of time before this thing gets Stealthburnered.

[@darkracer1252]

when you get to a certain size of printer. you gotta start moving the gantry in the z again. because the weight of the print would make the bed sag. (even the springs)

[@LostInTech3D]

that makes sense

[@kimmotoivanen]

Floating gantry has additional frame, has less print area and attaches fastest-accelerating parts (print head and y gantry) to a moving part. 4-point levelling - floating gantry can twist? Somehow this system feels equally (in)sensible to belted Z or core XZ 😅 If a bed has 3 or 4 points of suspension with belts, ball screws or trapezoidal screws, springs are not needed. Weight of the print should be issue with all plus & max sized printers (bed slingers included) though we haven't seem them yet? (Maybe because people print helmets and non-bouncing "volley balls", not 100% infill bowling balls or real-size automotive lost wax parts for casts)

[@ThisisDD]

1:25 there's an audio or video skip

[@ThisisDD]

Another at 4:25 Pretty much when you are about to say what you think. Weird

[@EclecticLensYT]

Noticed that as well.

[@simplegamerz9485]

It seems to happen a few times in the video

[@EclecticLensYT]

There's actually more than one..

[@berlinberlin4246]

Yes im wondering if it's an error or something?

[@arminth]

I just love your style (and the captions😂).

[@billverine765]

Another great review and I learned about heat soak with Inductive probes. I have a Qidi X Max3 and it was upgraded to inductive and I have noticed issues when powering up and starting a print right away, and yet if you print back to back, you don't see the issues with first layer. Appreciate the info!

[@viewatyourownrisk]

Thanks for the video. This seems like a nice machine, that'll be incredibly capable for relatively little money. I'm not an early adopter type, but if this thing shakes out well in the next 12 months it'll be high on my list of printers to upgrade to.

[@Liberty4Ever]

I started 3D printing when we had to build a 3D printer because there weren't any commercially available hobby printers. The SV08 is my 12th 3D printer. Here is my lengthy opinion on the SV08, for the prospective SV08 buyer. Short answer: It's a good shortcut to get most of the features of a Voron 2.4 at a third of the price without 40 hours of building, but it has some issues and isn't a good first printer for someone who doesn't want to tinker and just wants a reliable 3D printer out of the box. Sovol got a lot right when adapting the open source Voron 2.4 to be a relatively low cost consumer version of this advanced large volume flying gantry coreXY 3D printer, and they deserve credit for all of the engineering changes they made so the SV08 is suitable for manufacturing and to reduce cost. Sovol deserves huge credit for keeping the design open source, even to the extent of supplying STEP files for all mechanical parts. This was a large part of the reason I bought an SV08, and look favorably on all Sovol products. In most cases, Sovol made good engineering decisions, but there are some issues with the SV08. Probably half of the problems were the result of excessive cost savings, beyond what was prudent. In a few instances, the Sovol engineers were penny wise and pound foolish. In those cases, their customers would have gladly paid the difference in price for less problems and/or better performance. Some of the other SV08 issues had nothing to do with cost cutting and were the result of time to market, where there isn't time to resolve even known issues before shipping the product, much less extensive alpha and beta testing to refine the product before release. 1) The aluminum print bed is too thin. It's warped slightly more than 1 mm across the bed surface, resulting in problems establishing a uniform first layer on large prints. The problem is exacerbated because the warped surface changes when the bed is heated. The warped bed is rigidly mounted to the base so there is no way to shim it to level it, so owners attempt to fix the "taco bed" by drilling holes in the magnetic sheet to access the screws, removing the thin bed and installing 3D printed spacers to level the bed and pre-tension it to compensate for the thermal expansion warping which varies significantly between 65C and 95C. Sovol should have specified a 10 mm thick stress relieved cast aluminum plate (MIC6 or equivalent) and mounted it with springs, with the mounting screws accessible so the magnetic build surface can be removed and the mounting screws can be adjusted to level the bed and fine tune the very minor thermal warping in a thicker stress relieved bed. The aftermarket should offer a thicker cast bed upgrade. Sovol is expecting the bed mesh Z offset compensation to do miracles, but it can't. 2) The inductive probe doesn't produce sufficiently accurate and repeatable bed mesh results, further exacerbating the first layer problems previously described. Users are modifying their tool heads to remove the inductive sensor and replacing it with a contact sensor. Sovol should have probably used a contact sensor for greater accuracy. It would also prevent a crash when calibrating Z height when forgetting to replace the magnetic spring steel build surface. 3) Most people don't like the clicky knob character LCD user interface. It seems cheap on a modern 3D pritner with these high end features. Rotating the knob doesn't always move the display to the next menu item and sometimes it skips ahead two items. Clicking the knob doesn't always select the menu item and it often needs 2-3 knob pushes. Probably half of the users are buying a 5" touch screen user interface that attaches to a USB port and HDMI port. The Big Tree Tech 5" user interface costs $45 retail, so Sovol should have provided a modern touch screen graphical user interface. Users would have been happy to pay the small difference in cost with a decent profit added. 4) Many users don't like editing wifi.cfg and writing it to a USB drive to set the WiFi login credentials. I thought it was a reasonable solution to avoid trying to enter that information on a clicky knob character LCD user interface, but I was among the majority of users for whom the WiFi never worked. I was forced to buy a WiFi bridge and plug it into the ethernet port for data and the USB port for power. Maybe adding an external WiFi antenna as many 3D printers have instead of a tiny antenna behind the aluminum motherboard shield would fix the WiFi connection problems. Maybe the built-in WiFi only works with the 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz band? Maybe a firmware upgrade might fix the problem? 5) Some users had nozzles pushed out of the hot end when printing PETG with its higher pressure. Sovol fixed this by adding a set screw to retain the nozzle. Every manufacturer creates a slightly different high flow nozzle. All are similar to the Volcano nozzle but we're forced to buy a slightly different proprietary nozzle that won't work on any other printer. Replacing the hot end with a MicroSwiss hot end results in a high quality and known good hot end that uses the MicroSwiss FlowTech nozzles that can be cold swapped without removing and reinstalling the heater and thermistor. The nozzles are then compatible with all other printers once they have the MicroSwiss hot end installed. Installing the MicroSwiss hot end is as easy as changing the original manufacturer's nozzle that requires the heater and thermistor to be removed and reinstalled without damaging them. One the MicroSwiss hot end is installed, the nozzle can be swapped in a minute, using only one hand and a 7mm nut driver. 6) The web camera doesn't always work. Sovol has a page devoted to the problem. They advise checking to ensure the plug is fully connected as some units shipped with hot glue preventing the connectors to be seated properly. Then Sovol recommends ensuring the other end of the USB cable is properly connected to the motherboard, and if that doesn't work, try plugging it into the USB port on the side of the printer. If that doesn't work, try deleting and reinstalling the camera in Klipper. If that doesn't work, sometimes reflashing the MCU will fix it. Sovol would appreciate any info you have on the problem. In other words, hopefully the community will figure out what's wrong and fix it. My camera didn't work. I upgraded the printer's firmware to 2.3.3 and the camera worked. A few hours later it stopped working again. This isn't a problem for me because my printer is next to my computer but this would be a big problem for anyone trying to manage a print farm, or for people who want to use the phone app to remotely monitor a long print job. I would have much rather had a better printer user interface than a camera I don't need that doesn't work. I'll unplug the camera to ensure privacy and security. 7) There is a small LED lighting strip inside the top frame, in the front, on the right side. It's marginal. A brighter strip running the full length of the front would have been much better. Bright strips on the front, left and right sides would have been better still. I ordered the 24 V LED strip so I can upgrade the lighting. 8) The double bearing spool holder seems nice but stiff filaments tend to unspool and tangle. Sovol published a de-tangle mod, based on the many user mods to fix this problem. This begs the question, did Sovol test this printer before shipping it? Did they only test with PLA? This wasn't an issue for me because I print a lot of TPU so I feed it from above with no reverse Bowden tube to cause drag, so I'm not using the SV08 reel holder. However, eliminating the reverse Bowden tube allows the extruder cable to droop and drag so I needed to design and 3D print a custom cable chain to stiffen the cable to ensure it remains in a uniform vertical arc. 9) The bed preheating before quad gantry leveling, Z height calibration and bed mesh probing all uses 65 C, but many people are printing PETG, ABS, TPU, or other materials with different bed temperatures, so the bed warps after the calibrations are done. The calibrations should be done at the same bed temperatures that are used during printing, and the nozzle should be heated as well, but not enough to allow plastic to drool. Some users modify their config files to pre-heat the bed to the temperature used for printing. 10) The filament run out sensor is mounted to the reel holder. It dangles down, like an after thought. Modern 3D printers should integrate a tiny optical filament run out sensor to the top of the direct drive extruder. This would make filament loading easier and would use all of the available filament rather than leaving a reverse Bowden tube full of filament that must be cleared. When the filament is all used, the extruder should immediately unload 20 mm of filament to clear the hot end and provide a short piece that the user can grab to remove the 50 mm stub of filament.

[@Sembazuru]

The second temperature compensation technique for the bed sensing inductive probe is how many of us MK3 owners handled the PINDA2. There was a thermistor in the PINDA2 that the printer could read, so we would just send a G-Code (I forget which off the top of my head) that would pause until the PINDA2 reached a specific temperature. Unfortunately, Prusa screwed the pooch with the SuperPINDA that was temperature resistant. It didn't have an integrated thermistor, so anything sliced for the PINDA2 with a wait for temperature would hang indefinitely. (Personally, I put a timed heat-up at the start to allow the bed to stop flexing while heating up.)

[@StarkRG]

Why wouldn't that G-Code just be in the start routine rather than in the sliced g-code?

[@Sembazuru]

@@StarkRG Because I was dealing with Marlin, not Klipper.

[@D3PR3C4T0R]

Congrats on having the first good SV08 video!

[@LostInTech3D]

Haha thanks

[@juistb2]

Music that should have remained inside a trumpet is top tier captioning

[@lajoyalobos2009]

I would probably change the hot end and probe (touch style as I prefer G10 bed surface), then wait to see what they have for color change when that comes.

[@ThisisDD]

Exactly this. I too prefer G10

[@StephenWestrip]

All these proprietary hotends are a pain. They have used the open source licensing for the printer. Why not the hot end also? Sovolwire/SwitchSovol anyone?

[@therick0996]

Your thoughts on why a flying gantry is better are perfect

[@Enjoymentboy]

I've watched a few reviews of this now and I find it comically interesting that everyone has a different take on it and seem to really be digging in their heels with the things they personally find good or bad. One thing that I REALLY like is just how much the SV08 seems to be bothering the rabid bambu fanboys. But then again I'm a jerk, so........... But I'm 100% on the fence on this. I like it but it seems only 90% done. So I'm going to give it 6-9 months and wait for Sovol to tweak it a bit and work out the kinks before I decide if I'm going to figure out where I'd put it. But just like buying a car...you NEVER buy the first year when a new model is launched, so I'll let all the impatient suckers rush out and do the real world testing for me first.

[@LostInTech3D]

Yeah the amount of fuss this is creating is why I think it will be popular

[@chrismay2298]

Exactly! Watching fanboys choke from one side and scramble to pre-order and beta test on the other side is one of my favorite hobbies!

[@tomtlrech1392]

+1 for pissing off bambu fanboys

[@MSM5500]

As a Vovon2.4 user for 3 years I can say that it's not the best approach to 3d printer design. The worst thing is an inefficient surrounding temperature distribution within the enclosure comparing to a dropping table design cause with the table all the way down you have to worm up the whole inner printer volume till temperature stabilises whereas keeping the table all the way up considerably reduces the amount of air to be heated to reach temperature equilibrium. Second of all, moving gantry is less rigid unlike a built-in-frame one. That's why Voron 2 development was given up in favour of Trident. Third of all 2WD sucks vs 4WD CoreXY kinematics as enormously long timing belt loop of the first one has got too big stretching range resulted in undesirable oscillations.

[@yuripolak]

the temperature difference can be addressed with a chamber heater with a fan, that is something that is demonized by voron team but is kinda simple and efficient (I did it to my voron switchwire and it works awesome, improved quality, heat soak time, etc)

[@trippinonaduck1379]

Just a clarification. The v2 design was not given up in any way. The v1 just got an update more recently(Trident) with the learnings and improvements from the v2.4. The naming convention just happened to change at the same time to help de-confuse the version nomenclature.

[@davedempsey5282]

I just got mine ordered... $449. That's early bird special $499 and Sovol summer sale $50 off anything over $450. Free delivery, ships from US in early May.

[@LostInTech3D]

yeah the 449 was a surprise!

[@William3DP]

I always wondered why the Voron moved the gantry instead of the bed, like most core-xy printers do. But when I found an article on a Voron site that explained this, the answer was so clear and simple I was surprised that I wasn't able to figure it out myself. You see, in a conventional core-xy printer that moves the bed, there is a major issue in Read more

[@TechieSewing]

Well done!

[@TheFoodnipple]

Oh you!

[@TechieSewing]

The new mic is good :)

[@tbip2001]

Just about to take delivery of one. Have all the little issues been sorted now?

[@Crosslink3D]

1:25 you have a very weird cut that makes no sense from a narration perspective. Was this intended?

[@XHolyPuffX]

*woosh*

[@JoeyBlogs007]

Looks good overall. Would like to see some print tests.

[@KennethScharf]

Maybe the enclosure top will be a "hat" to give clearance for the tool head stuff. (like some Voron V0's) Heat soaking for 10 minutes before starting a 2h print isn't really a big deal.

[@LostInTech3D]

I don't think so but hey...there's always user mods

[@Mag1tow]

My anycubic kobra 2 max is having the same problem with the probe and z offset, do you need to change the firmware to use the rear sensor or with a gcode is enought?

[@TheTeknikFrik]

Did you ever publish your startup changes? The current firmware/config seems to force the quad gantry leveling to be done at 65C, and that's a bit annoying when printing multiple parts in ABS since it needs to cool down every time. (It's printing great anyway, though :) )

[@jamieclarke321]

I’ve got a ratrig, a vzbot 330 and a two trees SP5 plus some bed slingers I don’t use anymore. I want an SV08

[@ivansmith654]

Please keep us up to date on this one!

[@RaphaelRema]

Seeing the counter on the Sovol website as 14 hours left, it's safe to say that around 3am you were still editing the video, maybe? (Probably worked all night long). That's really hard work. You deserve as many subscribers as possible. Well done.

[@LostInTech3D]

Thanks, and yeah I should probably get some sleep 😴

[@AtomicBleach]

Haha this is why I love your channel. When reviewing products that have issues you just go... Well I reckon I'll fix that... And just stick to it.

[@GarethLewin]

I get the comedic timing of the cuts, but I really want to know your thoughts so while amusing I'm left feeling a bit frustrated :(

[@LostInTech3D]

I wouldn't have waded into that argument. If I had any issues with the machine I would state them, like I did with the z offset probe.

[@GarethLewin]

@@LostInTech3Dand I respect that view.

[@Pootydanglesore]

Max hotend and bed temp? The website doesnt list them. If it cant do 280+ and 100 I dont want it.

[@LostInTech3D]

305 and 105 respectively, according to klipper. Id probably stick to under 300 myself

[@benthompson8683]

You had my subscription at 9:10 :)

[@matteoo3923]

You said it's an open source printer. I've visited their website...i couldn't file any step file of the design nor documentation. I've just found a very poor wiki page

[@LostInTech3D]

github.com/Sovol3d/SV08

[@matteoo3923]

@@LostInTech3D Thank you. They should advertise that link on their main website though...in my opinion

[@LostInTech3D]

yes, they should lol

[@hasserecht3678]

Is the added complexity of the moving gantry gaining anything significant? I really ask this as i don't know.

[@LostInTech3D]

I really have no idea either.

[@802Garage]

He clearly explains at 1:22 😂

[@hasserecht3678]

@@LostInTech3D as a consumer i'd say "the less complexity the better if the results don't differ" since i have to maintain it. Let's See if others can explain it.

[@ManuelGranados-ey2tt]

If the motors are independently controlled, it allows for gantry leveling. Basically makes the gantry perpendicular to the bed.

[@hasserecht3678]

@@ManuelGranados-ey2tt and what does this do better than Just the normal compensation method that even out the first few layers?

[@AwestrikeFearofGods]

8:15 You're giving me flashbacks to a time before I replaced my Mini's MINDA probe with a SuperPINDA. It's an entirely different printer now. This is big deal if your print room isn't temperature controlled. Speaking of "most wanted machines of 2024", when are those new FLSUNs being delivered? Any chance you'll get your hands on one?

[@LostInTech3D]

Apparently they were too heavy to ship by air so they're en route but I'm not sure when 🤣

[@maggge89]

Have you seen Marathon IDEX? It has a very interesting kinematics system.

[@berlinberlin4246]

Has anyone the link to the STL file form the z offset test at 9:20?

[@LostInTech3D]

I can share it if you want, I made it for the task

[@berlinberlin4246]

@@LostInTech3D Yes please

[@ChillyGmBH]

thanks for the insight. i got my printer yesterday im quite happy but as shown in the video there are problems with the probing/first layer when can we expect the video with your fix you mentioned? cheers

[@LostInTech3D]

I was hoping sovol would take it on, but I guess that hasn't happened. I'll look into it.

[@3dpathfinder]

They will have more filament profiles before they start shipping. I ordered mine today with the enclosure.

[@SirLANsalot]

It has Vanilla Klipper, so the ERCF from Voron will work with the SV08. If this machine comes in under a $1000 or even sub $800 it will be well worth getting, and something you could build a small fleet around at that price. Also a lot of Voron mods would work with this machine with little to no adjustment. Also, yes just make it use the sensor at the back for Z Home, that will give an always consistent first layer instead of trying to use the inductive probe to Z home.

[@kilianlindlbauer8277]

Actually not. The probe results "override" z endstop results. So lets say you homed with a nozzle based endstop and have calibrated it to the point where 0 is 0 and you choose to only use the probe for qgl, then yes, first layers will always have the right z offset. This is how the vorons handle it, there is no bed mesh config in the stock config files. But if you use your probe for a bed mesh, well these results count and the z endstop is useless. The sensor in the back is used for a automatic z offset, similar to what many use in conjunction with klicky, but without the need for the calibration switch to also be your z endstop

[@caedis_]

Also, almost no mods would work out of the box and would require adjustments because all parts are custom injection molded and can't use tnuts except maybe on the gantry

[@chrismay2298]

Nope. You can build an ACTUAL quality Voron for around $1200. It's really just a wannabe for those who are too lazy or don't have the ability to build one themselves. None of the voron accessories will work and it uses a laughable knock off bambu hotend...

[@SirLANsalot]

@@kilianlindlbauer8277 I ran with the inductive probe for a while on my 2.4 350, and did have it fairly well tuned. However I didn't use bed mesh with it because it wasn't reliable enough to warrant doing it. Once I got TAP, well, rest is history.

[@SirLANsalot]

@@chrismay2298 didn't say they would work out of the box, many mods would need adjustments to work for this. Mainly would be looking at the touchscreen mod that the LDO kid comes with by default. As I have an LDO kit 2.4 350 that is over 2k print hours now and has been an amazing machine. ERCF needs to be able to talk to the printer and having stock vanilla klipper on the machine makes it easier to add one. Also the printer looks like it does have a run out sensor, which is very helpful for an ERCF. As you don't need one to use an ERCF, its a good idea to have one in the print head, or somewhere at least. Helps the printer to know where the filament is and if it is or isn't retracted enough yet. (I have been looking into adding an ERCF to my 2.4 for a while about 200-300 bucks for an 8 slot kit ain't bad).

[@henrymach]

Looks very interesting if not for the proprietary nozzle. But this is relatively easy to fix

[@kerrigreen2626]

There seems to be a issue with your editing. It's cut out certain thoughts. Lol

[@skunkprints7952]

He’s leaving it up to our imagination 😂

[@tokehgekko9455]

The ringing at 0:55, omfg

[@MagnificentUsernameGuy]

Yeah I'm not 100% sure, but I seem to remember that they had some issues with that right after launch of the K1 Max. I believe they fixed it on a later FW though, or wait, maybe it was an issue with the hoten. Either way it's fixed now, I know someone with the K1 Max, and they consistently pull great looking prints of the plate. 🙂

[@labhusky3]

Looks like pricing and everything is unveiled now. As someone who got an sv06+ a few months ago before the 08 was even breathed a hint of publicity, I'm.... Conflicted. The price is great. Really great. But is it worth it when I JUST got a solid 06+?

[@XHolyPuffX]

It's faster and CoreXY, that's about it. If your printer is doing what you need it to do without lots of headaches, you don't need another printer

[@snotode543]

This machine doesnt allow an external cooling fan from the side as the bed is fixed and gantry is floating. So rather we use the whole size of the printer to allow the part to cool by time rather than by a power- airflow

[@theRealJoelB]

It does allow for aux cooling. Troodon 2.0 and also Voron 2.4 can have it. Basically you attach 1-n fans/blowers to the gantry endpoints/sledges left and/or right, which blow inward along the extrusion plane. Not sure if it will cost a bit of X travel tho, there's several ways how exactly it can be done on Vorons and also Troodons.

[@suzyamerica4679]

Ugh, I am avoiding any blowers that push air in from any one side of the plate. Still working the kinks out of my first printer (SV07+) and caught the curtain fan causing differential cooling issues in certain kinds of prints. Organic supports, angled in the +Y direction, were curving off path because one side got cooling and the other didn't. It would appear that blowing air in the -Z direction is the safest.

[@tomaszkorytkowski1399]

Is this printer running windows? 5:00

[@Sekir80]

I'm fairly new to these machines, but I'm considering changing. So, this comes with clipper (that I don't know nothing about), does this mean this has input shaping? Can this be a bambulab killer? Edit: it HAS the possibility, according to the product page. Interesting!

[@LostInTech3D]

it's a big build plate which is what makes it really desirable, it's not the worst beginner machine because it broadly works out of the box, but these days most things do.

[@Sekir80]

@@LostInTech3D Thanks for the reply! I'm printing since 2016 on and off, I'm just not familiar with the new stuff. Klipper? Is that a firmware? What slicers are common nowadays? I'm still using Cura. Do I find answers on your channel maybe?

[@TechieSewing]

@@Sekir80 Klipper is firmware that needs a pi to work. Cura is still around, but there are others too, Orca is popular. Discord is a convenient place to discuss stuff (link in the description).

[@Sekir80]

@@TechieSewing Needs a pi to work? Okay, from the basics: there is a board in the machine that runs the gcodes, right? Then, how exactly does Klipper on a pi do anything? Discord? Annoying af, I can't find anything on it. :D

[@TechieSewing]

@@Sekir80 What's annoying is tech support in youtube comments ;) Discord isn't exactly for finding things, though I agree its search function should work much better in 2024.

[@osamaalali2547]

Nice hook lines with those cuts.. now I have to wait to see what you wanted to say on the next video 😂

[@LostInTech3D]

I wouldn't hold your breath 🤣

[@TechieSewing]

@@LostInTech3D Holding someone else's breath, sounds menacing ;)

[@ross549]

+1 for the jaunty music.

[@lucafortini4711]

Legendary thing is that i just got the ad for this exhact printer

[@LostInTech3D]

🤣

[@StarkRG]

Honestly, the only benefit I see to a flying gantry is that the bed is solidly and evenly supported. I don't think this benefit outweighs the disadvantages of having to synchronize four motors and the extra failure points those additional motors and belts create. Supporting a vertically-moving bed is a fairly simple and already solved problem and doesn't have the problem that bed-slingers have of accelerating the in-progress and potentially wobbly print (even with non-planar printing, vertical acceleration and jerk is very low).

[@dekurvajo]

I allow myself to ask a stupid question: How difficult is to remove those baby-blue parts? Because i want to paint it black. :D :D

[@LostInTech3D]

🤣 I mean.... At some point it's easier to just make the voron

[@ashers_workshop]

What do ya'll think about troodons? Much more like voron

[@LostInTech3D]

They're kinda okay but also a fair bit more expensive and annoying to assemble, or so I heard

[@cthulpiss]

For a long time Prusa used custom inductive probes with additional lead to compensate for temperature.

[@LostInTech3D]

Indeed

[@JoeyBlogs007]

1:24 gets interrupted.

[@rondlh20]

The head cover completely blocks the view on the nozzle

[@LostInTech3D]

thats the case with most machines now

[@caedis_]

The only parts you could use from a 2.4 is maybe the stealthburner. Everything else is either custom, or injection molded

[@ares395]

I've been thinking of saving for p1s but then this popped up... There are some benefits but ultimately I don't need a huge bed size and reliably is what I'm after. Open source is great and all but I've toyed enough with 3D printers that I don't really feel like spending time with upgrades etc. I'd rather spend a bit more and not have 75+% of my prints be tests...

[@mw4222]

So did the things that Nero3D mentioned happen to you as well?

[@LostInTech3D]

I thought I covered that in the video 😂

[@mw4222]

@@LostInTech3D iirc there was an audio cut right after that

[@sky__net9797]

I believe the Twotrees SK1 is a Voron Trident clone not a Bambu clone

[@Liberty4Ever]

The Sovoron may be my next printer. I've tried to convince Elegoo to make a Pro version of the Neptune 4 Plus with all steel motion control instead of acetyl V rollers but apparently they aren't going to do that? I need a 300 mm class printer but I don't want V rollers in aluminum extrusion for a large and fast printer. I built my first two 3D printers (Hadron ORDbot) and while that's a great hobby project, I use 3D printers for my small business and I no longer wish to build a 3D printer.

[@danieldc8841]

Can’t see the price because it’s sold out. What was it?

[@LostInTech3D]

It's not started yet

[@danieldc8841]

@@LostInTech3Dah when I loaded the page the counter was all zeroes but if you wait a few seconds it then shows it counting down

[@LostInTech3D]

Oh I see, maybe that's confusing people

[@fluideight]

Having finally seen the price, I really think Sovol is on to something. Even with the enclosure and add-ons its relatively inexpensive. I have been considering enclosing one of my larger printers as is and considering how much that would cost this is an attractive option.

[@marty4286]

TwoTrees SK1 seemed to be based on Voron Trident but wearing a skimpy halloween costume of a P1P

[@LostInTech3D]

It seemed pretty good but I didn't have time to review it

[@imthedentist]

AHA! A printer i can finally affor-ah bollocks, im still too poor.

[@scottinharwood]

Ordered one yeasterday (the 18th) for $449. Delivery sometime in May.

[@LostInTech3D]

not too long, enjoy it! :)

[@SantaDragon]

1:25 What a transition xD

[@sypernova6969]

What about print quality and speed????.

[@LostInTech3D]

Didn't spot any issues there, top speed is supposedly 700

[@dougbeard7624]

Alum... wut? Zed who? Cheeky video, lots of fun.

[@problematicpainandme1344]

the encloser have some add on space if i am not mistaken. this really is something i can hardly afford T-T

[@LostInTech3D]

not sure! I havent been sent the enclosure yet

[@adafrost6276]

I love my SV06, which was the exact same mentality but instead of telling the engineers to make a half priced injection molded Voron 2, they told them to make a half priced injection molded Prusa MK3S. Considering I was considering building a Voron 2, I might seriously just buy a SV08 (part of why I wanted a Voron is to make it myself and use custom colors though, however I can just make a Voron 0 instead).

[@gorgonbert]

You might want to check the video… some parts repeat… could it be you uploaded a version that wasn’t finished?

[@LostInTech3D]

Which bit?

[@WeShallBeFreeAtLast]

Every video I've seen on this comes with a list of pretty serious caveats. I like my Sovol SV07, and while a CoreXY is exactly what I'm looking to expand into, I think the Sovol SV08 is becoming less and less of a choice.

[@LostInTech3D]

Do you know how many people said exactly that on my sv07 review 😛

[@WeShallBeFreeAtLast]

@@LostInTech3D I'd believe it--the SV07 has a pretty serious list of flaws too, but the low price still made it attractive. I'm sure the SV08 is a very capable machine, but unless it's absolutely dirt cheap, I'd rather spend slightly more and get something I don't have to modify just to make it work well.

[@arrgh-]

So the best advice is, get an early machine and program it to the best performance or wait, pay 100 bucks more and hope, some other guys have programmed the needed Klipper and Slicer mods?

[@HauntedSheppard]

Is the problem sovolble?

[@LostInTech3D]

Nice

[@GeekDetour]

Excellent elevator song 😂

[@LostInTech3D]

Why thank you 😄

[@The_Chillguy7]

I’ll take a printer is you have extras that you don’t use

[@TNX255]

Hmm guess we got the Sovol censored version

[@axelSixtySix]

Multihead : don't forget E3D's

[@LostInTech3D]

they discontinued that a good while back

[@brianwgDK]

I am confused why you think this is going to be the 2024 top printer???

[@chrismay2298]

Because he got it for free and has to maintain a positive frame. They're ALL bought.

[@3D_Printing]

$9,999.00 sold out !!!

[@DoctorValium]

Hmm, cut at 1:25 was interesting :)

[@arminth]

Enjoy your commission! 😉

[@simonlaker2139]

First thing I would do is replace the bed with a cast aluminium bed . That's going to be the biggest problem

[@LostInTech3D]

Hmm...not sure. Of course you can but it might not be the best use of money 💰

[@simonlaker2139]

@LostInTech3D that bed been so thin will warp like a tacho.

[@Nemesishk]

but it doesn't even have a heated chamber, actually, it doesn't even have A chamber

[@802Garage]

Bruh, you let the cat out of the spool and didn't even show us? Sadge. 😿

[@LostInTech3D]

I'm not allowed to let the cat out of the bag 🤣

[@802Garage]

@@LostInTech3D Hahaha damn. Fun video. I'm surprised you like it so much, but it does look good! Excited for more vids about it. Have one coming out with the launch or not yet?

[@LostInTech3D]

The launch is today 👀 I'll probably try and get hold of whatever colour thing and do something with that

[@leogray1091]

I like the styling of the video. But a little confusing no the cuts, be nicer to have a little more indication.

[@LostInTech3D]

I don't know how I'd do that without spoiling it

[@newCrysis]

Sovol has a good machine this time around it seems. Have a ( long ) talk with your editor.

[@LostInTech3D]

He's already been fired

[@Dimitris1963]

It's more of a "wannabe" Troodon 2.0 Pro in the "more plastic wasn't possible" version...

[@LostInTech3D]

I can't get over the cabinet door magnets on the troodon, I kinda can't take that seriously

[@Dimitris1963]

@@LostInTech3D Let's wait and see how Sovol will do it...

[@teytreet7358]

Weird cut at 1:27

[@hassosigbjoernson5738]

Multi-toolhead is not that expensive. Just look at the Sovol SV 04 IDEX. It's a bit older. And it "only" has two toolheads. But for many prints (even with one or two manual filament changes or two types of filaments like support material) this is enough. And secondly: those two toolheads are pretty cheap. A solution for 4 or more toolheads seems to be just a matter of time (excluding the Prusa XL). Did no one come up with the idea of two gentries with 2 toolhead each?

[@LostInTech3D]

I came up with the idea 🤣 unfortunately I'm not a manufacturer.

[@jowjor]

OMG 500€ that's cheap!

[@thenextlayer]

Good review bud.

[@MallocArray]

Input shaping?

[@LostInTech3D]

yes