The ONLY Tools For The ULTIMATE Small Shop

[@FranksWorkbench]

To try everything Brilliant has to offer-free-for a full 30 days, visit brilliant.org/FranksWorkbench/ . The first 200 of you will get 20% off Brilliant’s annual premium subscription.

[@dietmarfinster3176]

I'm seeing your channel for the first time and I'm surprised that someone else places so much value on good hand tools. this reminds me of my apprenticeship as a carpenter. Greetings from Germany

[@seantron5687]

Thank you for making this!! I found you from your workbench video, one of the few videos that shows you how to make a workbench without a workbench!!!

[@timbo389]

That’s not a bad list. But I’d probably forego the jointer plane and scrub in favor of a second iron for the jack plane that’s more cambered. And I’d include a card scraper, rasp, and a few files. Even just a 4 in hand, to be minimalist.

[@FranksWorkbench]

Solid option

[@ArnallWoodworks]

Interestingly, I’ve just gone to a modified 3-4 plane setup very similarly. Lie Nielsen No 8, No 5, and No 4 ½. The “4th plane” is a heavily cambered second iron and chip breaker for the No 5 to use like a scrub. Great content as always.

[@thebluefrog951]

Remember, cry once, buy once when it comes to all these tools.

[@FranksWorkbench]

For sure and with good value tools you never outgrow them as you change woodworking preferences like going from pocket holes to mortise and tenons

[@CarlYota]

Yeah. Whenever I consider a cheap tool, I always look at what the high quality option would cost. Then I consider if it want to use the cheap tool as a “try it out to see if I use and need it” option. Rather than thinking about the cheap version as a permanent alternative to the quality tool. If the cheap version isn’t cheap enough it doesn’t make sense I will often just buy the better version. Case and point: high end chisels are about $100 each. “Good” woodworking chisels are about $40 each. That’s not cheap enough to waste money on so I’d would just save up for the quality version. The try it out version of chisels would be hardware store chisels which aren’t ideal for woodworking. But at $10 it wouldn’t really matter. I recently did this with a 102 tiny hand plane. It was $20. Good block planes are $150. Turns out this plane is great for edge chamfers which is how I would mainly use it. So I probably won’t end up upgrading it. But even if I did the small additional “try it out” cost is worth it. What you don’t want to do is spend 50% the cost of top quality on “just okay” stuff. And you definitely don’t want to buy cheap stuff over and over again as it wears out or breaks. You just end up spending the same amount of money but not getting good tools in the end.

[@contestwill1556]

well even if you regret purchasing a quality tool due to lack of use or not enough improvement over a cheap version or whatever, you'll probably be able to recapture like 85%+ of the value on re-sale if you havent completely destroyed them, it's pretty wild how well they seem to hold their value. so if you have the up front dollars to do it I'd often rather do that than buy a cheap tryout version

[@user-xn8fr3mx6d]

Thank you so much for this and look forward to seeing what you build. I am not a big fan of machine tools and super stoked you are doing this.

[@SebR-FR]

Nice list. I'd add a card scraper and a shinto rasp.

[@FranksWorkbench]

Solid choice

[@Erik_The_Viking]

I use both on a regular basis. The shinto rasp is amazing.

[@SebR-FR]

@@Erik_The_Viking indeed. As soon as I tried it I put all my other rasps away. And not for a minimalist tool list, but smt which complete the shinto is Isawaki "files" - it's kinda file but actually it's more like a float. It works beautifully on end grain, leaving a blade-like finish - very agressive, I recommend to take a fine or xtra-fine. And it's sensitive to grain direction so kinda specific tool (actually doesn't work well on long grain)

[@Kirrel]

Nice list, makes me realize I bought a tiny little bit to much handtools, even though most of them come from thrift stores and yard sales to cut costs. Fiddeling with them to get them in working order teaches me a lot about the functionality of them. Now look for a way to settle with the bare minimum list for projects

[@FranksWorkbench]

I had too many too, hard to pass up a good tool

[@TomBuskey]

You need drill bits, a nail set. Screwdriver if you do screws. Vice and holdfasts? You can make a workbench, try square, straight edge, router plane, mallet, dovetail marker, marking gauge. I'd really miss my 4" brass calipers for measuring drills, nails & screws. Dustpan & broom for shavings? Others have mentioned a scraper & you need a burnisher and file for that.

[@Dustypants92]

I work my hobby in a 7'x7' (49 sq feet) shop. I've crammed at lot in the space. -French cleat open face cabinet to hold all my fasteners, finishes/paints and sandpapers. -A lumber storage and random tools/shop stuff shelf that are stacked on top of eachother that are crudly mounted to the wall. -a husky tool chest (the one with the bamboo work top) that's 32"h x 18"w x 52" long. This chest holds most of the hand held power tools, mountain bike parts, basic stuff and some random things that come in handy. -a skil table saw with a stand. It sits against the wall and I just slide it out to make cuts - Black and decker workmate folding workstand - Rolling metal cabinet that holds some bigger power tools and has a top drawer chest for screw drivers, pliers and some other random stuff - My wood working bench that I custom made to allow ample work top space for what I do and for tool storage underneath. Under the workbench I have storage for my 10" mitre saw, a tool box with wrenches and a 250pc automotive socket set case. Above the wood working tool bench I have a custom tounge and groove cedar tool wall where I have a minimal set of tools but it gets the job done. I'd say I have slightly more than what the average hobby worker needs on the tool wall. If you're serious enough about the craft that you do and you're only able to have a certain amount of space, you make that space work. Small spaces can be challenging but the more you use the space, the more you figure out how things need to be. Small spaces are also good for keeping the clutter and junk at bay.

[@epicwarmups]

Thank you for making this! I now know what I should get, what it does and what I need to look into with all these terms and tool names you threw out. My next thing is...what do I make and how....subscribed and looking out for more content. Thank you.

[@JoffJk]

This concept is refreshing awesome. And I'm here for it!

[@FranksWorkbench]

Thanks man!

[@garynelles]

I’m just catching up watching some of your previous videos, Frank. This is a solid list and mine would not differ significantly if I was dimensioning lumber by hand. Good list and good video as always Frank!

[@MrJSplash]

Love it, that's a great list. Realistic and practical. Thanks for the update. Curious as to what you've done or are doing with the machinery acquired over the last few years.

[@FranksWorkbench]

I'm keeping it, just waxed it up and waiting to move it to the next place! I tried several configurations for most of it(other than jointer-no 220v), couldn't get the space to work, along with the fact I can't open the garage door, we are storing other stuff so I don't want sawdust on everything, so figured I'd just go back to hand tools only until I get a bigger space!

[@liquidrockaquatics3900]

@@FranksWorkbench you can always put stuff on casters so you can roll it outdoors. It’s not feasible for 220, but it works fine for 110 as long as you’ve got a heavy enough cord and an outlet to run it off of.

[@1deerndingo]

Great! Looking forward to your endeavours. A Battery drill? Brace and Bits for holes 1/4" up and eggbeater for the small stuff - please.

[@mr.shellcracker9161]

Like your old videos! I've been thinking about getting a thickness planer. Do you ever get snipe with your thickness planer? How much are you going to miss it? Good luck with the move. It's a struggle!

[@dpmeyer4867]

thanks for the info

[@kevingonzalez2927]

I think a good idea would be to compare this to an equivalent power tool setup and compare the cost. Those planers you linked add up to a entry level power tool equivalent skil planer.

[@kiwifruitpoo]

The Router Plane is a wonderful thing, as are all joinery planes, however, at $250 a pop, it’s a huge spend for a new woodworker. Good chisel work is a replacement. Work towards building a plane connection from second hand tools over a few years.

[@darrenmacmartin9392]

Hi Frank, great video, interesting idea! I may have missed it but what inspired the changes in your shop? Did you move or just enclose a smaller space within the garage?

[@FranksWorkbench]

Thanks man, we just sold our house and moved into a rental

[@gaiustacitus4242]

Overall, I'd agree that your list covers most of the tools required by any old school woodworker. Tools like those on your list are all we were allowed to use when I took woodshop back in 1973. However, I do strongly recommend adding at least a 16 pc. Forstner bit set and a basic set of drill bits. I wouldn't want to be making very many mortices without using a Forstner bit to remove most of the material first.

[@AncoraImparoPiper]

A fairly ambitious and potentially pricey list. Based on my experience as a beginner, hand saws are a big challenge. Sawing straight takes a lot of practice. I found it easier to achieve using Japanese pull saws. For a beginner hand sawing and the many failures in achieving a straight cut can be very discouraging. I bought a track saw first off to help with that, closely followed by a mitre saw and circular saw. The feeling of achievement I got when I was able to get a thin yet perfectly straight cut with the track saw and the other saws was just the best. I thought I could deal with anything from then on. As for hand planes, 4s and 5s did the trick for me. A jack plane would have been nice but quite expensive and hard to find used (in Australia at least). All the other plane types you refer are also extraordinarily expensive ( except the block plane) and similar outcomes can be achieved with a hand router or a chisel. As for sharpening, the easiest and lowest cost and least messy sharpening system is a two sided diamond stone. Above all these, I wish I had known that combination squares are usually not accurate. It caused me so much frustration. I was beginning to think I was cross-eyed. Those big box combination squares were a true waste of my money.

[@thomashverring9484]

Great video! It's always interesting seeing which tools individual woodworkers will choose, because it's seldom because something is more right than something else, but how we prefer to work and feel comfortable working. I have more chisels than I need etc., but I'm still trying not to get anything that I don't use. I know I could get along with a lot less, but I don't want to :^) At the same time I'm also thinking about whether or not a time will come when I want to do something like what you're doing. In a way I'm preparing something similar; a carving and sketching bag. I found an old leather bag I haven't used for more than twenty years and thought about making it into a tool bag. At first I felt weird making changes to it, but then I remembered it had gathered dust for more than twenty years! Hello! So I'm looking forward to getting it done. I'm making a list of what I need to carry in it, so I can figure out what I need to do to it. An exciting project!

[@smxaviermelendez9210]

I know it is very stereotypical YT woodworking channel, but I would for sure be interested to see some videos of you making some of the jigs/shop aids you use as a hand tool woodworker (e.g. shooting board). Might not be original, but some folks do things differently and I like to get new ideas. Thanks for the great videos!

[@michaeldonaldson4334]

Looking forward to the series. I’m in the middle of the same ring. Good luck

[@jsmxwll]

Hmm. Sounds like you can do most everything with that setup. Rasps and files are probably the thing that jumps out at me as things I'd personally miss. Cool video. You should do an in a year or something where you talk about how reality differed, or didn't, from your expectations.

[@FranksWorkbench]

Good idea

[@christopherreiss1320]

Any chance you would do a video showing your tools? It would be cool to see all the hand tools you have!

[@danjacobson8719]

It looks like two of the chisels you use in the video are Ashley Isles. True? Nice presentation.

[@TheSMEAC]

Congrats on the new space. BTW: I have people comment on my Frank’s Workbench hat all the time 👍

[@claudiosoares3540]

very good

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks a bunch for all the tips and information, Frank! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@davidstewart1153]

I would first get the tools needed to build a workbench. Not an ultimate workbench, just solid with a vise. Then the workbench lets you build other stuff and eventually its replacement.

[@FranksWorkbench]

Exactly

[@MacAustinMusic]

Solid list. What rip saw is that? Doesn’t look vintage but not sure what make it is.

[@FranksWorkbench]

Made by Thomas Flinn. they make 3 or so different "brands" (pax, lynx, and Roberts and Lee Dorchester) with slight variations but they all cut wood

[@michaeldoto4673]

Frank, I’m looking forward to your hand tools only series. Question: where did you purchase your Warrington hammer? I’ve been looking for one, but no luck thus far.

[@FranksWorkbench]

I'm not sure but for the stuff I do, a ball peen would be better to give the last tap on nails without grabbing a nail set every time

[@memilanuk]

LAP has some now... not cheap, though.

[@MikeAG333]

Nice video, but it was a little odd to see you using a scrub plane along the grain, when their job is scrubbing.........45 degrees to the grain. You were using the scrub plane and the jack plane to do the same job. And I'm surprised you didn't include a smoother plane. Also, scrapers, and a brace and bits were obvious over-sights. What are yoiu going to do if you need biggish holes?

[@FranksWorkbench]

Thanks dude and yeah man it works great, also use the scrub with the grain for starting 45 degree moldings and edge planing when it's too little to saw but would take too long with a finer set plane. Can knock off a 1/4" in an instant! But then I use my jack as a finer set plane while probably most hand toolers use it with a more heavy set. I'll def still use my cordless drill and driver, I mentioned that toward the end, love that dewalt ;)

[@jimfromri]

I probably just missed it but did you include a sliding bevel gauge for dovetails? This challenge you’ve set for yourself is going to make for a slew of interesting videos. Can’t wait to watch!

[@FranksWorkbench]

I did not, I'll just have to make something ;)

[@MikeAG333]

It's not necessary to mark out the angles of dovetails. Just cut the tails by eye. The pins are marked using the tails, so don't need a bevel gauge anyway.

[@HansWurst12345]

@@MikeAG333 you can lay out perfectly spaced and symmetric dovetails with just a ruler and square, not even much effort. its what they teach all cabinet makers here

[@MikeAG333]

@@HansWurst12345 You don't need a ruler. A pair of dividers is the traditional way.

[@HansWurst12345]

@@MikeAG333 only in the anglosphere. The trick is with a ruler you can divide a boards width accurately in any number of sections, without the need to walk and readjust the divider. Need 11 parts? draw a diagonal line of 11 cm and make a mark at each cm. with a second horizontal line parallel to the edge one sets the relationship of length to width of the pins, then its simply connecting the dots. The outcome are 1/3rd spaced pins with 2/3rd tails. apparently the brits dont like that ratios esthetic and prefer narrow pins, hence the dividers

[@davidndahura7437]

These was basically apprenticeship tools, you can't make a living in woodworking with such tools, they are slow, limited capacity and produce limited numbers, I have most of them. Thanks for the video.

[@bkinstler]

No need to buy a scrub plane - an old Stanley number five with a highly cambered blade works just as well.

[@jlmfoy365]

Great video Frank, you should get together with Paul Sellers he'd probably agree with most you say. Regards Jim UK.

[@FranksWorkbench]

He's the man!

[@Ramplcro]

Sharpening, you have to learn how to sharpen and recognise what sharp really is. But that's a fallacy in the concept, because if you don't have anyone to show you, you have to learn it and that requires time (and tools). As far as planes, a medium priced goof new plane jack and a low priced plane for scrub work can teach you how to set (prepare) a plane. After some time you can buy used for far less money and doing restoration/setting process your self.

[@csehszlovakze]

I know, power tool, but a circular saw is a pretty awesome generalist, especially if you have a track+adapter with it. (a track saw is a one trick pony tho)

[@FranksWorkbench]

Agreed. Circular saw would be the first power tool I'd add.(not going to here though bc I can't open my garage door to blow out the shop)

[@1steelcobra]

Going all hand tools is definitely a choice, and not one you make to save money. Though a drill is probably the most useful "first tool" for anyone to have regardless of if they're setting up a workshop or just day to day stuff. I'm actually forgoing a circular saw for now in favor of a jigsaw.

[@csehszlovakze]

@@1steelcobra a jigsaw is great if you mostly plan on cutting out shapes, but if you want to cut straight then a circular saw is the better choice. going with mostly hand tools is definitely cheaper, as most don't have the funds to buy a router table, a table saw and even more fancier stuff before they even start learning the craft. in fact, there're some tools in this video I put on my shopping list for the next occasion.

[@CarlYota]

@@1steelcobraa drill definitely makes the most sense to add to a hand tool setup for those who aren’t “purists”. As far as power tools go they aren’t that loud or create dust, nor do they take up more space than a hand tool alternative (brace or whatever it’s called) and they save a ton of time and effort. I would argue that a job site table saw is better than a circular saw in general if I had no idea what the person wanted to build.

[@CarlYota]

What power tools you add to your setup really depends on what you do most. So it’s hard to say a first tool to add. It’s gonna be different for everyone. You should really be thinking about what adds a new functionality to your shop. What allows you to do something that you couldn’t previously do. Rather than simply making something easier.

[@matthewwright57]

Please paint the walls!

[@FranksWorkbench]

You don't like the tiger stripes !? Not my walls though this is a rental

[@LittleJohn73]

Unrelated, but is your shirt supposed to look like Massachusetts?

[@FranksWorkbench]

No sir

[@jgo5707]

Ah yes, i didnt know when i started that the Home Depot combination square was inaccurate. I ground down the aluminum pins that hold the ruler until it was perfectly square and sanded the ruler edges so it was dead flat...just buy a good quality combination square from the start, what i did was a massive waste of time.

[@jalexander305]

Good god man! Where’s your beard! Bring it back

[@adamguinnmusic5871]

Why dont people just use a utility knife for a marking knife?

[@chickenman7252]

Making knife has a flat edge

[@carlogle6207]

Turkey burger would be as vegetarian as I could go 😂

[@FranksWorkbench]

Hahaha 😆

[@512banana1]

What the hell happened with the beard omg 😢

[@FranksWorkbench]

LOL took it off!

[@jimcarter4929]

Summer can do that.@@FranksWorkbench

[@viralprimenetwork]

Impressive selection of tools for optimizing a small shop space! 🔧🔩We sent you an email, we would love to connect and collaborate with you.