The Problematic Project - Fixing the Elefant - Episode #4

[@andrashorvath4887]

A quick tip for the wheel bearing install. Put the bearings into a freezer for an hour or so before the install and use your handy dandy heat gun on the wheel hub, concentrating on the bearings place. Usually the hub made out from aluminum and the bearings made out of steel so they have different heat expansion. So the bearing will shrink a little bit and the hub expands a little bit so when you try to install the bearing into the hub it's just jump in easily so you don't have to apply to much force. Or you don't have to apply any force at all. But I understand that a shiny new toy(hydraulic press) is always good 😀

[@kihestad]

Freezing/heating is smart. I know about the trick, but somehow never remember to do it when I should have 😁

[@TheIronHeadRat]

Great job 👍 a couple more videos and you’ll be down to just 50 tasks 😂

[@kihestad]

haha, I think you actually might be right 😅

[@juststeve5542]

Quick tip, when changing a tyre/tube, once you have one side of the tire on, and the tube inside, put a little bit of air into the tube before you put the other bead of the tyre on, it reduces the risk of catching the tube under the edge of the tyre.

[@kihestad]

Ah, yes - I have actually used to do that with my bicycle tires, did not think about it for the motorcycle. thanks for the tips🙏

[@spenmac]

@KI Hestad, For that rear brake disc, you need to be using proper disc bolts not regular bolts, for 3 reasons - 1. The original bolts will have a shoulder on them that precisely locates the brake disc on the wheel hub. 2. the original bolts will have a material torsion/sheering spec, where as the generic bolts you used wont - ergo a safety issue. 3. And lastly the original bolts will have a low profile head so as not to interfere with the brake caliper or any other brackets etc. Regarding the rear chain sprocket - unless the chain, front/rear sprockets have low miles on them, they will have developed a tight spot. And unless you marked the alignment of chain and sprockets when on the bike, when you go to put them back on, the tight/wear spot wont line up and you will just wear out the chain/sprocket faster. For safety reasons just replace the chain and sprockets with a new c&s kit. And if you do decide to make the muffler box out of stainless, its gonna be a little bit of as learning curve from a welding perspective. That heatshield fabric/material is general applied/stuck to the plastic with the shiny (heat reflective) side facing away from the plastic.

[@kihestad]

Ahh, thanks a lot for all the tips here 🤩🤩🤩 I'll absolutely going to check if possible to get proper bolts for the disk, I am going to change it on front wheel as well. The old bolts were definitely not the original, actually too short and just reached half way through the nuts. I will change the chain and both sprockets later, I have bought a kit already, but unfortunately with the wrong rear sprocket 😓 I'll definitely do a lot of research before building a stainless steel exhaust, a lot to learn for sure.

[@darkiee69]

You could wrap that exhaust box with some exhaust wrap to keep things a bit safer from melting.

[@kihestad]

Thanks for the tips👍I do actually have several types of exhaust wraps. I'll test without first, but that was absolutely a smart idea to insulate the heat if it gets dangerously hot around the box.

[@ryand1952]

a good tip for your bearings. throw them in the freezer before hand. makes them slid in way better.

[@kihestad]

Ahh, yes that is smart 👍 Thanks for the tips!!!

[@aukanmeister]

Great video as always😊 Love the learning curve. Recognizable to us all!

[@kihestad]

Glad to hear that, I guess nobody ever get done with learning 😊

[@DavidEduardoCortelezzi]

Great job! Love the videos! One suggestion at 5:22 : you could add a riveting nut to the shelf so you don't have to deal with nuts, and bolt it directly. Specially for screwing parts that doesn't require torque like covers and stuff :D

[@kihestad]

Thanks! Yes, that is a good idea - I barely get my fingers behind there 🥴 The upper part has the nut welded onto the frame, but not the shelf underneath. I'll check out a riveting kit, I'll probably build more stuff using aluminum going forward, it will be useful 👍

[@RY-mj3oz]

Outstanding content. Love the dedication, inventiveness and love for this magnificent example of an iconic motorcycle. You are keeping history alive. Great editing, music choice and commentary. Kudos x 1000!

[@kihestad]

Thanks a lot for your kind words 🙏 and for all the kudos as well 🤩😊

[@redrockroger]

It seems to me that the balancing should be done with the tire on. All the parts would contribute to the balance. Just a wild guess, no knowledge myself.

[@kihestad]

Correct, the first balance was just to find heaviest part on rim including inner tube, to match up with lightest part on tire. The. Comes the real balancing when the tire is put on.

[@wobblysauce]

Quick weights, Rim/tube should be with the valve stem, and then the tyre should have a mark with the light points, match them up and then you should have minimal added weights on the rim.

[@midnightc0mmander]

Hello Ki, very interresting bike. I love your series. You deserve more subscribers. Good luck with the never ending task list 😂

[@kihestad]

Thanks a lot 🙏 I need all the luck I can get 😊

[@MyRp123]

Thanks!

[@kihestad]

A second super thanks? 🤩🤩🤩 This is just too much 🙏

[@andyb.5268]

I don't think it would be possible to melt the exhasut box, my reasons are; the hotter it gets the more it radiates, and air cooling becomes more efficient, I wouldn't know how you could keep full power on so long. Alumnium is good enough for pistons (yes oil cooling helps) but so does air cooling on the exhaust box. Fit and forget. After thought - I have tried to melt aluminium with my blow torch and not succeeded, mass to gas too low. Another after thought my T100 has a cast aluminum head including exhaust ports, not melted yet!

[@kihestad]

You have some valid arguments there, and they make sense. Perhaps it can work anyway 🤞

[@andyb.5268]

@@kihestad You put so much effort into making it, it's most likely to be ok. Have a good evening, I like the tyre change kit, well done, I tried and failed but without gear and heat in January!

[@Intesanoga]

Good job. I say save the tube. In my experiences the new China inner tubes are not as good as an old tube. But maybe a new good brand tube is better. That is my experiences from moped at least, not that many manufactures for moped size tiers ans tubes perhaps there is more quality in bike size tubes and tiers. I had hoped you had DIY that tier "machine" so i could build one for my self. You do so nice nice DIY videos. Kämpa på, hälsningar från Sverige.

[@kihestad]

Thanks 😊 I did just a small diy job on the machine off camera this time. The wheel axle was too thick. I fitted a thinner one, and made an adapter for the arm to fit the smaller axle.

[@aliyusufbirinci90]

🎉

[@kihestad]

🤩

[@lynvingen84]

Just asking the neighbour, I have a tire warmer if you want to borrow it to change the tyres.

[@kihestad]

Ahh, I forgot all about it 😝

[@lynvingen84]

Next time 🤩

[@123grimmboy]

Send it! Move on to the end of the list

[@kihestad]

I'm on it!!! 🫡

[@tshansen]

Hahahaha I have to admit, I loved seeing you struggle with the tire machine. It is always some quirks to learn for it to be easy. And when you put the tire on, you should continue to rotate towards the left (the shortest knob on the duckhead) But you made it seam like it does not much matter to be honest. I hate to say it mate, but if you keep making this kind of videos, it is almost like I never hope you will be done with the Elephant 😆 Great once again my friend. 🙏🏻

[@kihestad]

Well, I hope to be able to join you on the road soon 🤞 did I go the wrong way when putting the tire on 😝

[@MyRp123]

Thanks!

[@kihestad]

Fantastic 😍🙏 Thanks a lot 😊