The Rules of Men's Style: a Talk with Clothier Extraordinaire Marc Guyot

[@bond-suits]

I appreciate you having this conversation in English rather than in French so people like me who wouldn't have a complete understanding in French can enjoy this wonderful conversation.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Hi ! Our pleasure and nice to see you here. Cheers ! Hugo

[@jeffhreid]

With regards to the waistcoat without jacket I say it should be backed not with satin back . The satin back is intended to be worn under a jacket

[@sigmundklaus]

and appreciate that there is a French version so I can practice my French :D

[@alexandrewoelfle6028]

Really don't agree with such narrowminded rules but that is life: not agreeing and still speaking with each other! And I love Marc's style since years; Great authentic guy!

[@ssisters4343]

As a business woman i appreciate that you have this discussion so my grandson can learn this to have confidence in selecting his clothing as he grows up and eventually enters the business world. Thank you.

[@danielbuxton4493]

Watching this as an Englishman, I, first of all, would like to say how much I appreciate two Frenchmen speaking SUPERB English for our benefit, and secondly, the scene puts me in mind of two courtiers during the reign of the Sun King discussing the fashions of the time - I am SURE two similar characters graced the sunlit chambers of Versailles 300 years ago!

[@Blackmuseops]

"Learn the rule like a pro so you can brake them all like a genius" Pablo Picasso. I love your conversations about breaking and modernising the classical rules

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you very much! Best regards, Hugo

[@Blackmuseops]

@@SARTORIALTALKS And the fact either you or your wife take the personal time to reply to almost anyone here is the cherry on the top 😉

[@janerkenbrack3373]

Stores all over the USA sell matching pocket square-tie combos. I see it on sports broadcasters often. I laughed when Marc said it was "a sin."

[@hattrick1211]

It is absolutely a sin. Has been a fundamental rule forever

[@janerkenbrack3373]

@@hattrick1211 It is terrible, for sure. But the use of the word "sin" is funny because of the meaning of that word.

[@Drosemusic37]

Nothing wrong with buying the set, just don’t wear em together. That being said, said sets are usually pretty poor in the fabric and quality department

[@janerkenbrack3373]

@@Drosemusic37 Right on both counts.

[@Claude-Eckel]

Also Hollywood actors on red carpets, it's like is a flood of no-gos. You shouldn't take them as a good example either. It just proves that money obviously can't buy you everything, definitely not good wardrobe advisors, if you don't know what to wear for an evening or an event.

[@jeffhreid]

Always enjoyable to to hear Hugo graciously orchestrate a conversation

[@garssympa500]

One of the most intelligent conversations on classic men's wear that I've seen in a long time. I agreed with almost everything. I certainly will consider a polka dot tie in the future. I've seen them but I always thought they were too frivolous. Where I disagree with M. Guyot was the tie width. That is going to depend on your height and weight. I am short, 1.6 meters tall, and somewhat slim. If I were to wear an 8 cm. tie, it would cover too much of my shirt. My ties are generally 6 cms. and I even have a few 5 cms. ties that I love. I can go to 7, but that is the outside limit. At 9 cms., I look like a clown.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks my friend (le gras sympa) for your thoughtful comment. All my best, Hugo

[@thedailyunbreaded317]

This channel is an incredible resource! I just bought my first suit today and I have 3 regrets. #1. It is not a 3 piece. #2. It is only half canvas. And #3. The lapels are not as wide as I would like. I was warned by Hugo about #2 and #3, and I made some mistakes but who knows what I would've ended up with without Hugo and his beautiful wife generously sharing their knowledge and I'm extremely grateful for that

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Congratulations for buying your first suit. And do not worry too much, it's already a great first step. You'll perfect your choices and make less mistakes as you continue your journey on this path. Just like all of us. All my best, Hugo

[@johnroberts1141]

A 3 piece suit limits its use.

[@Philo68]

What a delicious chat about things 99% of people will never even think about in a lifetime! Bravo (lady) and gents. Super info that’s appreciated.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Haha 😂 you're probably right my friend about the 99%. All my best, Hugo

[@Philo68]

@@SARTORIALTALKS It’s tough Hugo to be one of the cognoscenti! We suffer the BEST in silence…

[@cccycling5835]

Some awesome hot takes in this conversation, excellent observations! Much different from other style menswear discussions on KZbin

[@tonydeltablues]

Very happy to have watched this. Hugo and Marc: I appreciate both your comments and both your aesthetics (if you know what I mean). Again, as Mark reiterated: The black suit does not exist ;-) I'm definitely enjoying linen and cotton (or blends of those two) more than silk when it comes to pocket squares. Thanks gentlemen (and Sonya). Tony

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Tony for your kind words. All our best! Hugo & Sonya

[@colintinker6949]

The time flew by watching this. Excellent conversation. I greatly enjoyed it. Thanks Hugo.

[@MIRobin22]

All right, Guyot's outfits are giving me some mad inspiration. He's got a style I didn't fully realize existed until now

[@soulbasedliving]

Some challenging times and also great opportunities for me amidst global difficulties...and always appreciate the upliftment I feel from the beauty and style of Sartorial Talks

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Always grateful for your comments. Again, thanks for watching! Hugo

[@TheLexay]

Love this! Amazing! Keep posting more videos. These are such a blessing to us all ❤️God bless 👑

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

God bless you too my friend, Hugo

[@itsme-notyou]

Enjoyable discussion. I quite like the look of high end boots or shoes with dark jeans. In general the contrast of casual and formal looks good in casual environments.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

I concur that. All my best, Hugo

[@clovismerovech6537]

Awesome edition, thank you Hugo and Sonya! 🙏 Much love from Bulgaria 💜

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Many thanks Clovis! Much love from France, Hugo & Sonya

[@gusaugustus7895]

Pure style! I’m a new subscriber from the USA. Hugo, thank you for offering us a portion of the divine essence of you. Marc is a true quintessential gentleman.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

What a fantastic wording of your comment. Thank you, Hugo

[@dillonjeffares4434]

A wonderful and very interesting discussion. I would however, strongly disagree with Marc on one point - ‘never wear a wing collar with black tie’. Gentlemen only really started wearing regular collars with black tie from around the 1940s onwards, when stiff starched dress shirts with detachable collars went out of fashion, replaced by more comfortable turned down collars and softer fabrics. To wear a wing collar with black tie (if done properly with a starched shirt) is actually the height of tradition and formality. Greetings from London!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Dilon for your contribution on the debate. Cheers, Hugo

[@johnsinclair2672]

Winged collars became popular again in the 80’s with the yuppies. Unfortunately these new money folk didn’t realise that you do not wear an elastic fixing bow tie with a winged collar. It looked ridiculous!

[@peter7622]

After i stumbled upon Hugo's Parisian Gentleman blog with it's mostly fine literature à la belles-lettres years ago, the intricate process of my sensitivity's disposition in terms of masculine elegance took on eagle heights and in my vision of the subject, i was becoming more and more stiff but with time, a little less of that. Moreover, i think there is something elegant about technically playing with rules as long as you don't fall out of artistry while you play, lest you become the mistake itself of artistry.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

I agree Peter, many thanks for sharing your thoughts. Cheers, Hugo

[@sheevinopalpatino4782]

or just wear whatever you want, mate

[@monochromebluess]

A video presentation from a while back but a joy when I found it. Excellent discussion between two learned gentlemen offering superb knowledge and wonderful advice. Thank you Hugo. Definitely no to matching tie and pocket square !! Where did you obtain your Rust pocket square please

[@nickvassiliou9340]

A solid higher level target accomplished ! Excellent work !

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Nick! Hugo

[@jaymorse6866]

Thank you for the good information. You answered some questions that I have been thinking about for a while.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Very good to know ! Yours, Hugo

[@the_9ent]

This was great to watch. Marc clearly knows his stuff. Not sure I agree about suits with shorts but hey 🙃

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Haha I understand what you mean, but Marc is Marc. Thanks for watching ! Hugo

[@carlosaugustocarvalho5281]

Fantastic conversation. I partially agree with Marc on the topic of wearing a formal dress shoe like an oxford with a business trouser. If it's a cap toe in dark brown OK with a nice business trouser with a crease in the middle. But an oxford full brogue (or semi brogue) in burgundy, light brown, light blue, green etc. IMHO it's ok to wear with chinos. I really would like to hear from you about this. Thanks.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

I agree with you Carlos. All my best, Hugo

[@viniciusbenettigennari]

Great talk, guys! One comment on the white socks: even though folks are pushing for it now, and occasionally it can work, it always comes across as the lesser option. I've yet to see a look with white socks that wouldn't instantly look better with them matching or contrasting the trouser.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Honestly, I pass on this one 😂. No white socks for me. All my best, Hugo

[@RobMacEwen]

Wonderful conversation. Love it. Thanks so much.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You are very welcome Rob! Hugo

[@jeffhreid]

With regards to short sleeve shirts there is a place for them, such as the guayabera shirt, or other similar tropical patterned or textured shirts.

[@alexxfreedom]

Also aways very interesting conversation. I have suddenly realised I don't own anything but silk pocket squares.... I may need to rectify this. Thanks both.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Alexander, cotton and linen pocket squares are fantastic. You should look for Simonnot Godard. Cheers, Hugo

[@alexxfreedom]

@@SARTORIALTALKS I was going to ask about the company you mentioned. Thank you I will.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

@@alexxfreedom The best handkerchiefs in the world (company established in 1787). One chapter is dedicated to them in my first book "The Parisian Gentleman". All my best, Hugo

[@alexxfreedom]

@@SARTORIALTALKS ahhh thats why I recognised the name. I have read about them

[@ricardorgomez]

Great discussion. I largely agree with you both on the do's and don'ts. We just have to remember that local culture and personal taste has lots to do with fashion and style. Like in New York City... We love our black. Black suits. Oh yes. New York City has this elegant, tough nature about it. Because a black suit can also be identified with a gangster. So men wear it. In New York City, it's totally fine. I also wonder why tie manufacturers include matching pocket squares. I never wear them so I didn't care. But it didn't seem right to have them match. Lastly.... White socks. I think dress socks in white with some sort of pattern or 'other' colors on them can work. Especially in the summer. Great show!

[@gavindadds4414]

Love Marc's shoes. The woven cotton polos like Marc's wearing have had a big revival this summer, I bought 3 from Ben Sherman myself.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Gavin. I don't own any Sherman yet, but I'll work on it. Cheers, Hugo

[@peaceonearth8693]

Personally... I always feel a pause when a pattern design is only for the front of a shirt. I feel that instead of a facade, a thing should be throughout. Meaning the pattern around back as well. I do see a balance in this shirt that I guess has a logic. The navy shoulders and pattern on just the torso, tends to make shoulders more narrow, imho. I wouldn't choose that. However, the boldness of the pattern does give a size presence overall.

[@lorenzoleongutierrez7927]

So amazing and great conversation. Happiness and beauty on this difficult and strange time. Big hug!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Appreciate the note Lorenzo, very encouraging ! Hugo

[@forceforgood4669]

As always I enjoy your style videos and learn a lot. However, I would have learned even more if you would add more pictures to show examples.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Well noted FFG, thanks for your input and cheers ! Hugo

[@ljr35]

Excellent stuff. I think I agree with most things - except one - I don't think short sleeved polo shirts look good on most men over 40 and I hate the polo and neckerchief look! Hugo looks great as usual it should be said! An utterly personal opinion of course. I think burgundy shoes with a dark blue suit can look good, depends on the shoes and the suit! I think a narrower tie can look good if you are going for a 60's mod look (as I occasionally do). I have a hand painted silk tie I've had for 30 years that is just 4cm wide and it has gotten more compliments than anything else I own.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you so much for sharing your opinions my friend. Greatly appreciated, Hugo

[@jimmeven1120]

I like the narrow ties too, especially the knitted straight-bottomed ones. I'm surprised Marc doesn't favour them, since he seems to have a soft spot for the mod style.

[@RoosReviews]

As much as I can listen to Marc talk all day….How can a man wearing a Ben Sherman polo, with acknowledgement of the British Modernist scene, not see how white socks in tailoring is a staple for Modernists. As it is for one of the Mods strongest influences, the Ivy Campus’s in the US(30s - late 60s). This implied casualness within tailoring is the look that these young Korean and South East Asian gents you mentioned are emulating.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

We've been observing this revival of white socks in Korea and SEA with Sonya. Best, Hugo

[@OPMDK]

Great suspenders today Hugo and very interesting and engaging conversation

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Many thanks Jason! Hugo

[@jeffhreid]

The rule of having the trousers fabric never lighter than the jacket is a good one. I like that

[@generalgrievous6689]

Wearing a winged collar with a tuxedo is quite normal in the UK. Tuxedos, or dinner suits as we call them, were originally a more casual replacement for evening tails and so were worn with winged collars and white bowties. After the black bowtie was popularised, many people switched to turn down collars as they hid the black band of the bowtie and due to their association with the upper class, which was unpopular at the interwar period, however the winged collar made a return to the UK soon after WW2 amongst the upper class and thus stayed relevant in a black tie setting.

[@nickbreedt7762]

Excellent episode!!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Many thanks Nick! Best, Hugo

[@leeriding3746]

Nice conversation as usual. I didn’t agree with a few things he said but that’s ok. I’d take Tom Ford’s opinion on the black suit for example. I will try to find his Ben Sherman polo though.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Lee. As for the black suit, I have one in my wardrobe and the only place I would wear it is in New York (with an open white shirt). On a side note, Mr Ford would look good with a yellow suit with pink dots 😂. Cheers, Hugo

[@alexmosutheskypirate]

It would be very nice if you always showed us what you are talking about, the way you show an image of the thing that's being discussed at min 23:43. Great videos, thank you for the very informative content.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Yes Alex, we'll progress on this. Cheers, Hugo

[@tjswc1458]

Great Video as always, but i’m not so sure about the wing tip black tie rule. Originally black tie was often worn with the normal white tie pliqué shirts, later with soft shirts but often with wing tip collars. So the wing tip is a pretty traditional option for black tie. And here i might do the cut. The question should be, of you have a more classic maybe even vintage inspired concept, or more a modern flashy or less formal concept. For every lover of the 1900-1950‘s, so the lovers of the vintage styles, it shouldn’t be „outlawed“ to wear the classic option of a wing tip collar. But yeah, the less formal modern approaches might better work with kent collars. But that’s just my opinion and it would be highly interesting to hear your opinion on that claim of mine. But i should also admit that i also consider a wing tip accapable for a historic morning coat style with the plastron, so maybe i’m just crazy 😂

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

I was not sure myself about the wing collar, but after checking with experts in the UK it seems to be right. In any case, we says "rules" but it is, at best, conventions. And I'm very comfortable with breaking them! Cheers my friend, Hugo

[@themoderndandy713]

I agree with you on all fronts. However, I'd add a couple notes for wing tip with black tie: - It should be detachable and worn with a stiff front shirt; essentially a white tie shirt. It should never have pleats. - It is best worn as it was done originally - as part of a three-piece dinner suit. You may wear a marcella waistcoat with it as well (but never a marcella bow tie). All of these are acceptable with black tie, albiet unusual and distinctly vintage. You may also make the argument for wearing your wing tip collar with an off-white dinner jacket, but personally, I'd stick to the turn-down collar for two-piece dinner suits. As for the wing tip collar with the formal ascot, do be warned: the formal ascot is currently banned at Royal Ascot (ironically, the very place to give the ascot its name). Because of this, unless you're going to some very high-society weddings exclusively in the U.K. (and are alright with standing out, which arguably is impolite at a wedding), or are just a formalwear lover who takes any excuse to pop out your morning dress even when no one else is, the formal ascot is unlikely to be an item you'll ever wear. Finally, just remember this about black tie: in an age where long neckties, exposed waistbands, notch lapels, and often bright colored patterned clown suits reign supreme with the dinner suit, a little bit of rule-breaking here and there certainly won't kill anyone.

[@tjswc1458]

@@themoderndandy713 This is realy interesting. Thanks for your nice and teaching words. May i ask why the ascot was forbidden? Is it more a thing of Unwritten rule, or is it an actual law in this sense?

[@themoderndandy713]

@@tjswc1458 I think there's two prevailing theories on why the formal ascot was banned. The first is just that it's outdated and thus innapropriate to the changing times. The second, perhaps my personal theory, is that far more men were showing up in tacky, satin, pre-tied, ugly-looking ascots that simply take away from the elegance and traditionalism of the event, so rather than specify exactly what kind of formal ascot is appropriate to wear, they just decided to can it. Oh, and it's an actual rule. The dress code does not allow it anymore.

[@tjswc1458]

@@themoderndandy713 Real fascinating thank you for your Information.

[@Richardsumilang]

Can you please share the name of the pocket square company you mentioned towards the end? I can’t spell French words, thank you.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Good morning Richard, it's Simonnot Godard (est 1787 !). Here: en.simonnot-godard.com/shop/boutique.php?s=15-la-pochette-blanche Cheers, Hugo

[@kenneth7826]

As they say know the rules then break them....your guest has on a very impressive pair of spectators....

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Precisely and agree. Cheers ! Hugo

[@rediius]

In Asia and Asian people, black hair is very common. This means that black is a natural and common color to pair into our outfits, even casual outfits. For example, black suits, or chinos with black shoes, don't look so strange to us because many school uniforms use those same colors. It seems natural to continue using those colors and outfits into adulthood. This also allows me to break the usual brown and black outfit rule because my body already naturally comes in those colors.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Many thanks for your comment and for sharing your thoughts (and cultural background). All my best, Hugo

[@j.walker6845]

I have a question about black shoes, Marc says they are strictly formal. What about with gray flannel trousers, a white shirt and Navy blazer? Is that considered too casual?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear friend, black shoes work with grey pants of course. But by essence they are not casual. What you describe is at least "business" but not casual (at least from my perspective). All my best, Hugo

[@j.walker6845]

@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you kindly for your reply, that clears it up nicely for me.

[@henrywest7217]

That was great! You did confirm many of my instincts. But there were a few surprises.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Henry. With Marc, there are always surprises!! Cheers, Hugo

[@thomaslutro5560]

An interresting thought on shoe colours. I have one pair of black oxfords. In many ways the most important pair of the bunch, but rarely used. All the others are various browns, including suede, and a single pair of navy suede. I'll probably not get another black pair unless I should ever need something even more formal. Besides extremely rare formal settings, I just plain like browns for their depths and richness of colour.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Thomas for your contribution, All my best, Hugo

[@greghart6310]

Lovely, informative discussion

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Greg! Cheers, Hugo

[@genemanansala1147]

Great talks. Learning alot. Thanks

[@eeemuse]

thank you a lot, love these videos.

[@MICHAEL-xr9yx]

Nice!! Living to learn

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Michael! Hugo

[@walterfoyt5985]

I love everything you said and wished men in America would follow. I love the braces Hugo is wearing.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Walter for your encouragements! Best, Hugo

[@generalgrievous6689]

Shorts with a suit, but not short sleeved shirts or sneakers with a suit, is a really interesting take. They are all a no-go for me!

[@pedrovilchez1688]

This was like a class...as guys like me (construction).who are learning 5he proper ethique some of the language is foreign.it will be nice if we see a visual example.thanks to hugo I finally learning how to properly dress.gracias.

[@jashanvirdehal2637]

I did not know that wing collars are only for white tie but all I can say is that I don't know if I'll ever attend a white tie event so I at least want to wear the wing collar shirt one time at a black tie event/evening wedding reception

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

We say if you know the rules, then you can break them! Happy sartorial times ! Hugo

[@masoodkhan427]

Hugo .name of designer of your shirt please .? Thank you for the vlog

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Massod, this bespoke shirt has been made by Fiorenzo Auricchio (Davinoshirtnapoli on Instagram). Best regards, Hugo

[@marcustulliuscicero9140]

A lot of other English people will think this is heresy, but I like wearing Walnut or Cedar Tan Derby brogue shoes with navy suits, especially during daytime (only with a leather sole though, not on Dainite etc). I think it's a blend of country and city style which is perfectly acceptable for the office in London and for early evening drinks in informal settings. I do wear black shoes when I am going into one of the London private members clubs though.

[@jenniferschmitzer299]

I apologise, may anyone tell me what brand M. Guyot’s top is from? I love it. Thank you xx

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Sure Jennifer. It's a Ben Sherman polo shirt. Cheers, Hugo

[@martinrea8548]

Quel plaisir! Merci pour la bonne conversation, plein de bons conseils. However, I have to disagree with your condemnation of brown shoes with a blue suit. Personally, I find they go tres bien ensemble, tres bien ensemble.

[@markwilliams7091]

How can you get heavier fabric trousers than a tweed jacket?

[@jacobd.7961]

Such an interesting topic! Love this channel

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Many thanks Jacob! Cheers, Hugo

[@jac627]

Hi, I have got one for you. Could you wear a polka dot pocket square with a striped tie?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Yes Jackie, you can. Cheers, Hugo

[@c.w.9615]

Can Hugo pull off the short pants with knee high socks look? Summer 2022?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Not sure about that 😅😅

[@anthonyenglish5709]

A black suede shoes would go well with a casual dark grey suit. Patch pocket of course

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

I agree Anthony. It works. Cheers, Hugo

[@hemigod2]

I will gladly share with you all my style or my solution for dealing with hot weather. I typically wear French cuff shirts and with this the sleeves have 4 cufflink holes and one button hole per sleeve. I neatly and evenly turn back (not roll) the sleeve ends which is usually about three times until that buttonhole is on top (careful as it is a different direction that the cufflink holes). I then put the cufflink through the three holes and lock to secure it’s place. If it’s done right , your folds should come to just beneath the elbows and the bottom two cufflink holes will be unused and out of sight . As far as the trousers this technique will turn them into elegant knickers (without any modifications or alterations) in which you will most definitely have to wear a very long sock with and make sure they are elegant ). And as far as foot wear , I have had great success with a balmoral boot or buckle loafers. With the pants on Pull the bottom of the pants above the knee making sure that the fabric which will be now inside out is hanging nice and even to the shin. Go to the bottom of the now inside out pant and neatly and evenly fold them up to the knee . (Not all the way up above the knee where the bottom of the pants should be) Go back to the bottom of the pant which should be still above the knee and fold that down over the inside out parts you just neatly folded up, this should lock all of your folds into place turning everything into a nice cuff right at or bellow the knee . For added security you can apply a pin , paper clip or even tie a ribbon around . Make sure that the remaining fabric that is above your knee is the same width as the inside our cuffs beneath it so when you fold it back down over the cuffs everything is nice and even Steven. With the right socks this look appears elegant and for the white sock wearers this may help bring them back in but over all this definitely beats the heat. One last thing , don’t go without a waistcoat with this look.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Wow! Thank you James for this very precise and thoughtful lesson of elegance! Cheers, Hugo

[@hemigod2]

@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you sir

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

@@hemigod2 Pleasure

[@Mbetman]

I love how clear cut Mr. Guyot is about his classic style, but then accepts a suit with short pants xD

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Unique is the word ! Cheers ! Hugo

[@elevatedsupernova]

Which handkerchief brand were you referencing at the end of the video?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Here : www.simonnot-godard.com Cheers, Hugo

[@michaelharder8116]

I found a light brown double monk strap with a dark navy suit both tasteful and elegant. Especially if all leathers follow the same tone on the watch band and belt/suspenders. I agree there is contrast, but in a complimentary sense.

[@Lassehansen3]

Interesting as usual, though I think that this is more a video about personal taste then about “rules”. Like saying no to short sleeve shirt but yes to to a suit with shorts 🤷

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You are probably right Lasse. As for me, I wear neither short sleeves shirts nor shorts. Cheers, Hugo

[@jipmaster55]

Do you and Marc tie the old bertie the same way? I notice you (Hugo) tie it differently than most manuals show it done, Kirby Allison ties a traditional Old Bertie. How does Marc tie it?

[@macmaguire233]

Great video. Thank you!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Our pleasure! Cheers, Hugo

[@Rainy_Day12234]

I wear a linen shirt with a tiny collar, very informal for summers.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

We are not big fans of tiny collars, but it's very subjective. Cheers, Hugo

[@sucessobymarcospinheiro5342]

Mr. Jacomet is the best and a true connosseur.. Just out of curiosity: where is Sonia?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks a lot and Sonya is always nearby. Cheers ! Hugo

[@ragaspatil]

Thanks, Hugo for your efforts to spread the sartorial education. With this new wave of casual styling, I'd like to ask your thoughts about how someone shortlists a tailor or suitmaker who can adapt to your style and also be a good alteration shop to make any future changes? My questions come from personal experience where I'm looking for a good service/tailor to move from the RTW world as I have many garments which I simply can't wear because of fit. But I'd like to make sure of the value out of my investment. I'm trying to follow your approach to building a quality wardrobe so I hope for your response.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Sagar, sorry for my (very) late answer. Well, it's a difficult question. But the main point is to go there, try on some garments to "feel" the fit (even if it's not your size), see if there is an in-house alteration atelier and ask a lot of questions. It's quite subjective, but the more you'll progress the more you'll be able to immediately spot the right places. Or, as an alternative solution, find a good alteration tailor (which is one of the most important thing to do if you want to build a proper wardrobe). Start by asking him to alter clothes you don't really care about (just to check his skills); And then if he's good, keep the address for you 😂 (because having a good alteration tailor is as important as to have a good doctor). I hope it helps! Cheers, Hugo

[@lucianobasil1005]

Very good show sir, thanks a lot!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You are very welcome Luciano. Hugo

[@CoolChevere]

I’m surprised you didn’t discuss wearing white dress shoes only during the summer. Since Marc Guyot is breaking this rule.

[@marcguyot6434]

Sorry to be too limited by the time; Otherwise this video would have been 5 hours long and hence quite boring I imagine :). Yes I'm crazy about white shoes and not only the white buck. Reminiscence of the 20's 30's, when chaps were wearing nice dress white shoes, oxfords or derbies, with offwhite linen or cotton suits, panama hats etc...So I may have worn my white shoes during autumn or winter in the past but always when weather was nice and allowed it! :)

[@jenniferschmitzer299]

@fgfghjkggdfdghjfgfjh well, it’s your opinion man ( I’m running off lolling at your response.. )

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Hope Marc's reply addressed the subject in full. Cheers ! Hugo

[@1Luisinga]

I would love to have a coach on how to match and dress. Do you provide such service?

[@charlesnguyen7798]

What is your thought about black denim and black espadrille shoes? Great content. Have been learning a lot from your sharing. Salute Marc and Hugo

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Charles, I believe it works well, Cheers, Hugo

[@fungun7414]

Hello, white tie with white pocket square for funeral right?

[@c.w.9615]

Thank humankind's achievements in technology that has brought us these two guys (and Sonya off camera) to us! I love Marc's style and more so, his opinions.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you CW! Best regards, Hugo

[@nethli]

What kind of tie would you suggest for blue and white checks and navy blue pants. It's for school uniform. Solids or strips tie?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You can't go wrong with a solid color-coordinated tie. Hugo

[@swissgator6312]

Hugo, thanks for the great discussion. Should shoe color and belt color always match? Should shoe color and leather jacket color always match? Cheers!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

They can match of course, but often it looks better to wear a belt the same shade as your trouser sto avoid drawing a horizontal line across your body (but if you're tall it's not so much of a concern and wear whatever looks good to your eye). Hugo

[@Alburritooooo]

I love this channel, I just discovered it! I've been wanting to dress more classically like the men of the 40s and 60s, and I've collected a healthy amount of trousers over the years that range from black to flannel. I've started wearing braces, as well as leather made loafers. I want to start wearing high waisted trousers, but it seems very hard to find in America, even harder for a man of my stature (I'm a heavy set man). Do you have any tips or sources you can point to for men like me, who want to obtain high waisted trousers?

[@peaceonearth8693]

If all else fails. You might look into pants designated for tall people. The rise will be longer. Then consult with a tailor to see if the pants would fit ok, with his/her adjustments to the inseam, for your non-tall self.

[@Alburritooooo]

@@peaceonearth8693 Thabks for the tip, I've recently learned that tall shirts can do wonders for my midsection, maybe tall pants will too.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

@@Alburritooooo Dear Albert, my advice is to go and see a tailor (or at least a custom clothier). Cheers, Hugo

[@igbokwenu4934]

@@Alburritooooo I’m heavy set too and I’ve found that Spier and Mackay (S&Mck) based in Canada are pretty good in their made to measure. But as Hugo said in the comments go to your tailor first, get your measurements then get a made to order suite from S&Mck when u order to a bit wider so when u receive it u can go to make final amendments by your tailor to fit u perfectly. All the best and welcome to ur sartorial journey my friend! 👊🏾

[@Alburritooooo]

@@igbokwenu4934 This is so helpful! Thank you for sharing this, cause it's making the journey all the more easier

[@stevenr7189]

To back up the black suit not existing in the UK a black lounge suit is a type of formal wear (semi-formal day wear). I believe they call it a stroller elsewhere, only the coat and sometimes the waistcoat are black. You see it in golden age Hollywood films, I think it very elegant and it’s a shame it has basically died. Also, sorry to correct but white tie used a tail coat, a frock coat was similar but more like a modern overcoat. Great video as usual!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Many thanks Steven for this thoughtful and interesting comment. All my best, Hugo

[@dakotarayprice]

I wear sealand cotton shorts sleeve dress shirt in the summer

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Great choice and so comfortable! Hugo

[@canadafree2087]

Second time watching this. I think the more formal something is the more strict the rules should be followed; as that is the whole point: formal=uniformal=uniform. I agree no OCBD shirts with double breast because the double now stands for more formal than a single breast one would wear to the office, meanwhile the OCBD is way too casual. In North America, among the common man, black is just another color choice, so you may see more black shoes/boots with chinos but the matching leathers should still apply so black belt with black shoes. As was said in the video, it is about using your own eye to find what you think looks good on you. I do love the rules though I will not be rushing back home at a certain time to change out brown shoes for black.

[@oskarek57]

I also used to think, that wearing wing collar shirt with black tie is ok until today, so I will just buy classic collar shirt, since I don´t want to look like an amateur. Thank you for this advice.

[@janerkenbrack3373]

Stripes and plaids, etc. Mixing patterns is the same whether you are decorating yourself or your rooms. Mix floral with geometric, large scale with small scale, and complex with simple. Follow that and don't over do it and you'll look marvelous.

[@jswede1]

There’s a simple rule: If it’s the same pattern, then use widely different scale. If they are different patterns, use the same scale. Of course with every simple rule there is an exception. Here it’s very small scale - like pinstripes, or houndstooth, or micro check - Always use a large scale pattern to relieve it.

[@janerkenbrack3373]

@@jswede1 That was the second thing I mentioned. Mix large scale with small scale. Avoid two patterns of the same category. Two geometric or two floral should only be done if they are widely different in scale and complexity. The idea in all this is to avoid clashing and creating a visual nightmare.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Nice summary, Jan and much appreciated. Hugo

[@jb9433]

Late 70s/early 80s was the Mod Revival. The original Mod movement was in the 60's- that was when Ben Sherman first became popular in the UK.

[@Dappertrucker]

Myself I enjoy the black suit and so easy to throw in color to make it pop via silk ties and pocket square hats are from tribly and fedora to bowler and homborg always black from Oxford Dress shoes and toxedo loafers to dirby so many possibilities Gentleman and to pop it more add waistcoat like grey champagne burgundy for example

[@donatodijkstra868]

Liked this a lot! Only question that came up was: can you match a waistcoat with a double breasted jacket?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Good afternoon Donato. A waistcoat with a double breasted jacket is useless (as the DB jacket will be worn 99% of the time buttoned). And it will create an enormous amount of fabric on the belly! Cheers, Hugo

[@donatodijkstra868]

@@SARTORIALTALKS Good evening mr Hugo, thank you for replying. Indeed I think you're quite right, It would be rather silly ;) Saluti Donato

[@themoderndandy713]

Five month later reply: many men did, in fact, wear a waistcoat with a double-breasted suit up until the '40s. There were a few reasons for this: one is that the waistcoat, for a long time, was an essential part of the gentleman's wardrobe. The waistcoat also served the double-function of holding your pocket watch and keeping you warm in an era without centralized heating. Come WWII, fabric rationing pretty much temporarily destroyed the three-piece and double-breasted suit in current tailoring, and while the fabric rationing did stop, both the casualization of fashion and the invention of indoor heating basically killed the look.

[@plinden]

Nice production! May I ask what cameras you use?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Patrick. We use Blackmagic design 6K cameras. Best, Hugo

[@zedrickapollo4290]

Better to have images when describing this RULES on those clothes to wear and not to wear, because probably some of us sometimes don’t understand what it is. 😅

[@fatihcevik6701]

Hallo Sonya Hugo and Marc. Great wishes from Turkey. I can’t hear exactly the name of the famous handkerchief brand you talk about it. Please can you write the name. Thank you so much.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Hey Fatih, it's Simonnot Godard. Here: www.simonnot-godard.com Cheers, hugo

[@ljr35]

I love my black O'Keefe suede chelsea boots! ignoring you on this one.

[@yitzchoktzvi7521]

Finally a mention of Paul Weller! One of the most stylish people in the music industry.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

I agree! Cheers my friend, Hugo

[@kaemeleon]

In my industry as Close protection for celebreties in The International film festival we are required to wear black suits white shirts. It is like a uniform

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

It is indeed a uniform for body guards. Cheers, Hugo

[@michaelt312]

Hugo, I apologize for going way off subject. May I ask the microphones that you use? They have an excellent sound. I am going to be producing some training videos for work and would love to look into these. Thank you in advance.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Michael, these are RE20 by Electrovoice (the American model, still crafted in the USA and still crafted the same way it was crafted in 1968 when it's been launched. The gold standard for many people). Cheers, Hugo

[@michaelt312]

@@SARTORIALTALKS.... Many thanks, Hugo. Takes me back to my days of being a DJ in the 80s. Learned quickly of their beauty. Cheers!!