DCC Keep Alives, making the connection (32)

[@dommack1]

Re: JST plugs Polarity Correction. 2 pin connector, use a sharp knife of razor blade to ease up the retaining plastic, gently pull the cables out, gently push them back into the correct location. I feel the correction activity is good investment for 2 minutes, is MUCH better result with far less worry or possibility of future error. Thanks for your video, a great reference. PS I Recently purchase some Chinese made JST9 pin connectors, using the above technique, corrected the cable color sequence, so now using them with JST9 DCC chips in old Athearn Locos. :)

[@rrswitch48]

Thank you! I'm dealing with a TCS 1516 V4 for steam with the tiny KA that comes hardwired with the decoder. I also bought a KA 2 which I may not need if the included hard wired capacitor works through the turnouts.

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Keep-Alive has got to be the greatest innovation in Model Railroading!! Even better than DCC itself. It's not designed as an excuse not to clean your Track... But is a perfect failsafe for those little areas ! Usually out of reach or more likely - in a Tunnel !!! 😜 Carmine ✈🚂🚙

[@captainbill12]

I have done the ESU decoders on the 21 pin board and put a TCS keep alive on it. It works nicely for me.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Whatever you do remove the Keep Alive before doing any programming with a LokProgrammer and possibly others. It can harm components on the decoder and they are closely scrutinizing any warranty replacements because of so many damaged this way. I talked with them today about it in detail. More to come in a future video as soon as I get a chance to work with these some. Some folks have had success using a latching magnetic reed switch to turn the KA off and back on again after programming.

[@captainbill12]

@@TheDCCGuy I use a 2 pin connector that I unhook when programming. I also use one for the speaker so I can take the decoder out of the locomotive if needed. I have accidently tried to program a ESU with the keep-alive attached and all it does is come up in the software as a unrecognized decoder. When that happens I just unplug the keep-alive and it worked perfectly. I have never fried a decoder on a nix board by not attaching the keep-alive. This is just my experience. Yours may differ. Loving the video series. Very informative. Thank you for making them.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Good move. I think that the damage may only occur when using a LokProgrammer to load sound files into the decoder. I keep bugging the to add a small plug and socket to the boards so folks can easily do this but the techies in Germany won’t do it.

[@1stArizonaSub]

Gave this a whirl on an old Lima HST loco I fitted with an NCE D13SR. Engine went from crap to smooth running just like that. Now to do with all my old brass stuff.

[@rgj8044]

Hello, is there any chance you can do a video on adding a TCS Keep Alive to a BLI Paragon 2 and/or Paragon 3 decoder? Thanks

[@TheDCCGuy]

I’ll add that one to the list.

[@blakrootz]

Just saw this video; any recommendations for a Keep Alive to be used on MTH GS-4 HO Scale Daylight? 2020 Released...

[@TheDCCGuy]

I have never seen any info on how to connect a stay alive to an MTH decoder. I’m not even sure their electronics allow it. You may be able to get some info from whoever owns the electronics end of those locos.

[@christolly2690]

I have TCS WOW Sound decoders with the small capacitor and want to add TCS Keep Alives. Is it as simple as cutting the blue and black/white stripe wires from the capacitor and soldering them to the two wires from the Keep Alive?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, it is that easy. You are simply replacing a single capacitor with several (and a few electrical components).

[@stevef9530]

Hi Larry, thanks for your good clear videos on this subject, my problem would be soldering to a Lenz silver that’s smaller than my thumbnail, even though there’s info about which pads to go to. I imagine I need to invest in a micro soldering iron, have you any advice on what kind would do for the job?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, that will be tricky. I use a Hakko soldering iron that I got on Amazon. You can get very fine tips for it. Take a look at my soldering videos, such as #35, 38, 68.

[@GooseinTheCabooseProductions]

Hey larry, what about older Tsunami 1 decoders? I have one already installed on and engine I bought secondhand.

[@TheDCCGuy]

On the SoundTraxx reference page there are documents showing how to connect a Current Keeper to the older Tsunamis. soundtraxx.com/reference/documentation/

[@tomcook5813]

Have you done a video on adding a keepalive to a Bachmann soundvalue board? As always, thank you

[@TheDCCGuy]

No, but I did go over how to find the connection points on a decoder in the video I did on making the connection.

[@tomcook5813]

@@TheDCCGuy I’ll look for that one ☺️

[@nicholascarbone3753]

Great video and very informative. I installed a TCS KA1 keep alive installed on a LOK SOUND 58420 Version 5 decoder in an Proto 1000 RDC. Is it normal for some heat to be generated by either the keep alive and or decoder?

[@TheDCCGuy]

They may heat up a bit so it is always a good idea to make sure they are not too tightly enclosed. That said I have a LokSound micro on a Kato NW2 switcher and it has performed well for several years. That one is sitting in a depression cut into the metal chassis which I think acts as a heat sink.

[@nicholascarbone3753]

@@TheDCCGuy Thanks so much for the information!

[@MBrailfan]

what about adding a Current Keeper/Keep Alive/etc to a Soundtraxx Tsunami2 PNP decoder without using the provided plug? I have such a decoder that the plug was damaged, but the decoder still works. Is it possible to find the negative point on the diode as you showed at the end and attach a wire to that? I assume the other wire would just go to Function Common or V+.

[@TheDCCGuy]

I would think you have 2 options: (1) replace the old socket with one sourced from eBay or possibly even SoundTraxx, or (2) solder the wires directly to the decoder after removing the damaged socket-you would have the exposed contacts right there.

[@MBrailfan]

@@TheDCCGuy not possible, the plug is gone all together and it took the surface mounted metal contacts with it. Trust me, if it was that simple I would have done it already. That's why I worded the question the way I did.

[@TheDCCGuy]

If you contact tech support at SoundTraxx they likely will email you a photo or diagram showing where to solder the connection. However I use a lot of the Econami PNP boards and have not had to use a stay alive with any of those.

[@dougbrown702]

In going over the electric diagram with components shown, I searched my electric parts box to find I had all the components to make a keep-alive except one item. I do not have a 1 watt 100-ohm resistor. But I do have 2--1/2 watt 100-ohm resistors. I have plenty of room to put the extra component but wondered if I'm going down a slippery slope. I presume that if I can use the two resistors, I need to put them in a parallel configuration.

[@TheDCCGuy]

The wattage should be OK but you could easily get by with a 100 ohm 1/2 W unless it is O scale or larger. The 1/2 W size is much easier to find but don’t drop down to the 1/4 W ones.

[@dougbrown702]

Thank you for your assistance. As the "keep-alive" was being built, I checked all components after soldering to other components. I found that I had two capacitors that didn't make it. Don't know if it was to much heat or just bad components. I had a few extra capacitors, so it did not matter with the H.O. scale installation. Thak you again.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Glad to hear you were able to cobble one together.

[@Crookedriverandeasternrr]

Thanks for the help Larry. I have a few tcs ka3 keep Alives that I need to add the jts connectors to. Would you be able to post a link to exactly what you bought for this. ?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I checked my eBay account and can’t find my prior order however the following look like what I got. www.ebay.com/itm/US-SHIP-Mini-Micro-JST-DS-LOSI-2-0-2-Pin-Connector-plug-with-Wires-Cables-20pcs/232447578903?hash=item361ef49317:g:NrcAAOSw7mNcsGRc

[@Crookedriverandeasternrr]

The DCC Guy thank you sir. I appreciate it

[@raquaro1]

Hi Larry. I don't know if you will actually see this as the post is from 2019. BUT.....I have installed a Digitrax Power Xtender on a Digitrax decoder and a Soundtrax keeper on a Soundtrax decoder. Both of them keep the sound and lights on. The Soundtrax does a much better job as the duration is amazing. However, the Digitrax doesn't keep the motor running while the Soundtraxx does. I can snag the Soundtrax engine off of the tracks and the wheels continue to turn. The Digitrax stops immediately. Digitrax help line says that theirs is doing what it was designed to do (?)........ SO, I want to cut the Digitrax off and solder on a Soundraxx using the same wires. Can I do that? This is in an RDC with plenty of room so I could even build my own per your video. Thanks, Larry. If you see this and have time, can you drop me a line?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I recently saw another complaint along these same lines. I need to install the Digitrax sound decoder with Power Extender that I have and see how it behaves. It is starting to sound as though these are designed just to keep the sound alive and not support motor power.

[@1621billw]

I tried following the link to the Australian website, it appears to be a dead link. I'm trying to find out how to add a keep alive to an XL systems 0001812 and an XL systems 0001961 dcc decoders thanks

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, that’s the problem with websites, they aren’t guaranteed to last forever. It appears XL is a Chinese company that previously made decoders for MRC and is now marketing those designs under their own label. I think their logo is a skull and crossbones!

[@1621billw]

@@TheDCCGuy That aside, if I find the bridge rectifier on the decoder can a keep alive be attached in the same manner that you describe in this video and will it function properly?

[@adamserafini6945]

Current keepers are great on the old stuff with horrible electrical pick ups rather then adding ,but there are issues with programming creating a delay or not even working at all . Seems power needs to be cut on service track programming ,but with the keep alive it does not go off like it should. Anything to do to fix it ?

[@MotownModels]

You can use a Circuitron RS-2 magnetic Reed switch to make and break the connection without taking off the shell. A magnet is used to flip the switch, like how Rapido is with their passenger cars.

[@joe.l.4519]

Thanks for the nice video. But could you please update the links, they are all dead.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Sorry but I don’t have time to check every link on 360 videos. Your best bet is to use the search capability of Google, etc.

[@the4000class]

Excellent helpful info thank you

[@farmerdave7965]

If the decoder manufacturers were on the ball they would include keep-alive circuits on their decoders. And don't get me started on the lack of Railcom support.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, but they’d just pass along the added cost to consumers. This way you get a less expensive decoder without a stay alive and you can decide whether you want/need one in your locos. Of course TCS does offer versions of their decoders with a KA and their replacement motherboards have them built in. Another issue is the size required to pack 4-5 capacitors into the decoder. For N-scale and some small HO locos that can be a real issue. I have run into a few instances where only the TCS Keep Alives will fit and even then it was a real squeeze. I rarely use them on HO diesels and larger steam. I do put them in small steam locos like 0-6-0s and diesel switchers. It would be a waste of money to put one in my Challenger. With 4-6-6-4 wheel arrangement and a centipede tender there is more than adequate power pickup.

[@struck2soon]

Excellent video Larry, thanks. The information about the 1mm JST connection for the Soundtraxx decoders is extremely useful, I have wondered how it would be possible to connect my generic keep-alives to their decoders for some time. I am assuming this is the same pin used on their non-board decoders?

[@TheDCCGuy]

The only other Soundtraxx decoders I have used are the Econami and Tsunami2 which have individual wires. This same connector does fit Digitrax stay alives so I am assuming this is a size manufacturers are commonly using. However you have to be aware of the fact that just because one manufacturer’s connectors may fit does not guarantee that the wire connections are the same or that the polarity is the same so check, check , check before connecting anything. I point this problem out in my October 2019 DCC Corner column.