Make large cuts on the Radial Arm Saw

[@NMranchhand]

After much help from you, I completed the complete rebuild including steel-reinforced , 3-piece table, of the craftsman 12” (1971), and brother, what a machine. It’s been about 6 months now and I haven’t used my table saw once except as a surface for glue-ups. Ripping is so much easier and safer. I’m so glad I began with a COMPLETE rebuilding or I never would have come to understand the intricacies of these fantastic machines. I realize now that the fear and frustration I have always heard about RAS were wives tales born from, “WARNING: Failure to read and understand all …”

[@NMranchhand]

I’m rebuilding a saw at the moment and watching your important series. You’ve just reminded me to make darn sure that the new table I make is quite particularly square and straight to pull this kind of added value. Thanks.

[@phil4483]

Ditto on that!

[@NMranchhand]

@@phil4483And as it turned out, it didn’t turn out to be much extra time or trouble to make sure the new table was DEAD square with perfectly parallel edges and, wow, how useful that has turned out to be. Just like the man said.

[@mickralph4623]

Love your work Iain! Thanks for sharing.

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

Mick Ralph thanks for watching!

[@Dylangj08]

Thank you for this demonstration. I am curious if you could remove the step of using a circular saw to rough cut the sheet by either setting the radial arm saw to outfeed position and/or bringing the saw out to its furthest position from the column. I imagine closer the saw is to the column equals more rigidity and the motor between the user and and the blade may provide a safety measure? I’m new to the radial arm saw and appreciate any insight you might share on this.

[@ypaulbrown]

Iain, running the wood in the direction the blade is turning is also called climb cutting, as the blade is trying to climb up the material. Feeding in the opposing direction is known as conventional cutting. These are machinist terms and are very important when cutting metal. To climb cut you need a very rigid setup or all sorts of bad things will happen, so the normal way is to conventional cut. Ironically, climb milling gives a much better finish, so the usual thing is do the rough cutting conventionally and then do a final finish pass with a climb cut. When doing a cross cut on the RAS, you are climb cutting. I have had my little 925 Dewalt 9" 3/4 horse grab and climb over a piece of 1.5"x1.5" cherry and I was not able to hold the saw back, and I was taking a very slow pull, this was also using a negative 5 degree rake blade too. I started experimenting with pushing the saw towards the fence [pushing material back to the fence but trying to lift it up] if done slowly on these hard woods, it is easy to control the tendency to lift up. The best thing is it gives a much smoother cut with little to no tear out. The negative issue is you have to have the saw in the out position before placing your material.....if you need a more secure way of holding material, you can always clamp the work to the fence to resist it wanting to lift up. I hope this makes sense. I have done this on my other DeWalt saws, a 16" and a 10"...also on a 12 " Tatry Italian made commercial saw. Cheers from Florida, Paul...I am really enjoying your videos and the way you make them.......

[@ClintS-]

I usually get away with using my RAS on large sheets the conventional way, with the excess on the in-rip side, fence at the back. But I found this trick useful in squaring up a large, odd shape piece. Simply clamp your guide at the right distance and the desired angle, typically parallel to the front edge of the part you want to keep. Thanks for the tip!

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

You’re welcome.

[@marcosmota1094]

Thank you. I owe you an arm or at least a few digits! I was pondering a rip cut that just seemed sketchy and you saved me! Thank you!

[@Ritalie]

I'm new to radial arm saws. But after studying all the proper techniques, I am convinced that cross cutting is far more dangerous than ripping. The danger in ripping boards is the kickback. But a kickback is still less dangerous overall than an incorrectly done crosscut. I think people who say you "should never rip on a radial arm saw" don't understand the basic mechanics of the anti-kickback pawls and the adjustable guard.

[@andrewbrimmer1797]

Would a power feeder help keep the wood under better control to prevent the throw out of the piece

[@NMranchhand]

@@andrewbrimmer1797 it’s really not necessary. With the guard and pawls used properly there’s very little chance of that. Moreover, even if they weren’t there, since you’re pushing into the turning blade (with a push block of course) the whole thing feels really well under control since you are actively opposing the blade push with your push.

[@Militarycollector]

That’s an awesome Old school circular saw you have there..NICE…👍

[@KevinCoop1]

I hadn't thought of this one! Excellent!

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

Kevin Coop thanks for watching!

[@matthewhayes2291]

Useful tips! Thanks for putting this out. Keep them coming. :) Almost like seeing Mr. Sawdust in real life...

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

Matthew Hayes Thanks! Don’t worry I’m already thinking about the next RAS video. While I’m nowhere near Mr. Sawdust’s level of RAS expertise, I figure youTube needs positive RAS videos to help offset all the hate and misinformation that is out there on this tool.

[@cavisco]

I love that little panel saw.

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

Tool Using Primate it’s a great saw.

[@funtyes1970]

WOW i love your old tools , company's sure dont make tools like that anymore , like that old Circular Saw and that Radial saw you was using

[@phil4483]

Awesome technique! Do you also use outfeed for ripping, or just infeed?

[@woodensurfer]

When you make the table, be sure that the front edge is parallel to the fence for this procedure.

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

That is very true.

[@woodensurfer]

@@TheNorthlandWorkshopIf you had not done so, using a strip attached with biscuits and shims (al can cuttings) will work as remedial procedure.

[@michaelbradford4444]

I'll definitely use this technique in the future. If you think about this you'll realize there's no need to use a skill saw and very little thought is needed for the initial cut to be square.

[@petermarsh4993]

Dear Iain, thanks for this demonstration. I have a small workshop with only a RAS and no table saw. How do I cut big pieces? No mystery thanks to your nice video. Ta.

[@DeWaltRadialguy]

Another informative Video. Thanks!

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

Thanks for watching and thank you for talking me into getting this very fine saw!

[@newenglandyankeeliving5052]

Do you a video on building an RAS table?

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

I briefly went over building a RAS table in the video on aligning this saw. I didn’t go super in depth because it would be different for each model of saw but I cover the basics.

[@FantomWireBrian]

Very nice saw ❗ I have a 12" Delta but not sure I really want a vintage 16" DeWalt . I'm not sure why everyone sets up for a inrip I prefer the outrip setting always. 😎

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

I like inrip because I’m right handed and it seems more natural for me to push from that side of the saw.

[@FantomWireBrian]

@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Yeah it really doesn't matter ,as long as you're comfortable . 😎

[@WKYanks]

What year and make is that circular saw?

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

1953 Porter Cable.

[@WKYanks]

How old is that circular saw?

[@TheNorthlandWorkshop]

61 years old.

[@WKYanks]

@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Sweet!!

[@newenglandyankeeliving5052]

Yeah I saw that little guy and wondered the same thing

[@JohnAdams-xc5yk]

My son in law bought a big old Delwalt Radial Arm Saw at a auction, I helped him load it , the company that had it were making doors and used it to cut Aluminium, it is 48inch with 5 hp motor they had the motor rebuilt about a year ago, the blades are 20 inch, I actually think this saw was built to cut Aluminium, but I am hoping it will cut wood also

[@AnthonyAnthony-tk4ye]

Appreciate the fact this was for demonstration, but it would be so much faster to just clamp the straight edge and follow with a circular saw… you have the same issue of the blade cutting upwards and leaving splinters on the top of the workpiece, but you could actually reduce it with the skilsaw by using a guide with the edge being the actual edge of the cut…. (2 layer hardboard guide/jig) and it’s so much faster…….

[@fredkilian4049]

So Good! Now everybody knows the right way to do it! I hope? You have educated them now so they can stop hating the Saw. This is safer than a table saw this way. Watch carefully students! The operator is far away from the cutting blade. Maximum safety.

[@andrewbrimmer1797]

Would a power feeder help keep the wood under better control to prevent the throw out of the piece