This has to Stop! | 1964 VW Beetle Restoration

[@midwaygarage]

If you like the video, pass the word and like and subscribe!

[@1967250s]

Always a good idea to grind off the lip on the hub inner edge, clean out the star adjuster holders, and lube them with non seize. Make sure the E-brake cables are free, too. Makes adjustment loads easier.

[@davidgrason161]

You talk about the "aftermarket" wheel studs but every VW I ever had I had to bolt the wheels to the hub with bolts from the outside. I have not used one of these torque multipliers. I have a similar tool that wors on the same principle that I use to remove and replace the wheels on a Prevost bus. It looks as though your channel is really new...only a few days old. Am I your first subscriber? Anyway, I like that way that you don't waste time shooting the breeze like so many other KZbinrs do. You get right in there and show what you intend to show according to the title of the video. Way to go. I hope you get many, many more subscribers.

[@midwaygarage]

These type of studs make it easier to put the wheel on, the factory VW lug nuts look like this and bolt directly to brake hub: www.jbugs.com/product/251601139.html

[@bradleybuyer5541]

I actually had the left rear wheel assembly completely come off my '62 VW when I was a kid. Turns out the cotter key had worked out of the nut and the nut backed off sending the whole thing through the left fender and out into a field. We found the wheel and the cotter key and nut were still inside the hubcap. We put it back on as best we could and drove it the rest of the way back to our garage.

[@midwaygarage]

Glad you made it back okay. That reminds me when I had a Karman Ghia and I didn't tighten the lug nuts all the way and the tire came off when I left the driveway!

[@thomasschwarting5108]

Makes me miss my Bugs!!

[@losebjughashvili8465]

1:04 would have been interesting if you tightened that up. How far out were they on the torque. And see if tightening that, takes the slop out. Yeah, after that being loose, gotta take it apart and check that. Thanks for sharing.

[@midwaygarage]

They were finger tight, the only thing holding the wheel on was the cotter pin.

[@losebjughashvili8465]

@@midwaygarage wow!

[@donelmore2540]

I’m sorting bit by bit a ‘64 Beetle. We electrified it with a Hyper 9HV motor and 7 Tesla batteries. Added A/C, seat heaters, ft disc brakes, LED headlights, etc.. A local shop found one cause of its steering slop was a loose front wheel bearing. Now we are going to add new shift bushings.

[@midwaygarage]

That is a cool project. Definitely looking to the future, good luck with it.

[@brianchisnell1548]

Just all wrong to me. Rather have a golf cart.

[@donelmore2540]

@@brianchisnell1548 To each his own. I understand your objection.

[@bobtomica9614]

I saw the reear shock absorber you're using is with coil spring. What does that do to its performance? How's the ride?

[@midwaygarage]

Well that one was no good, so I went back to a stock one.

[@ignacioanaya3403]

What was the spray you used to clean the brake hub?

[@midwaygarage]

It was Brake Cleaner.

[@nickmandziak7702]

magic how all of a sudden the missing lug nut appeared in next frame

[@brianchisnell1548]

The splines on the drum will strip if proper torque not achieved. Leave the wheel on the ground. 1in. Breaker bar 2 ft cheater. Factoy method.

[@dv7057]

Cotter pin, not an Allen key or Carter key.

[@ShainAndrews]

Welcome to KZbin. Ditch the music, and all banner reminders. It is going to be rough for a while, but you will find your flow.