🔬 Thoughts on choosing a (DSLR) camera for the microscope | Amateur Microscopy

In this video I give you my opinion on DSLR cameras for microscopes. I cover the following topics: resolution, sensor size, flip-up display, ports, adapter rings, etc.
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[@jimzielinski946]

I've been taking pictures through the microscope for years as a hobbyist. I have to say you really covered the issues very well. Bravo!

[@paulfarrell5935]

Always very helpful! Thank you Oliver!👍

[@danev1969]

I use a normal microscope, one eyepiece tube and no camera mount. I did ensure good objective lenses. So with that in mind, everything Oliver says is spot on. My view on Gabe's question is a simple answer. 1) sensor size should be small, micro 4/3rds works well since the cone of projection from the objective is smaller anyway. Larger sensors will simply exhibit vignetting. 2) mirrorless is better than DSLR, but as long as you have live-view capability it may not matter too much. 3) All cameras made in the last 5 or more years have HD video. 4) Less is more. You will not need any lenses, just a microscope size T-mount. So a simple M4/3 Olympus, Panasonic or other used camera body will provide all that you need. And yes, an older DSLR, even c-crop is fine, as long as it has live-view capability. Oliver's suggestion to use the HDMI out on the camera to a monitor is a great idea too. Good luck.

[@gabegabe7914]

Hi Oliver. Thank you so much for answering my questions. You are thorough and timely and now I know exactly what to do. Camera here I come! Love the monitor solution to the variable flip out screen. I did find your videos after contacting you and they were great (as usual) but this video put the cherry on the cake!!! Thanks again Oliver. You truly are amazing!!!

[@oneworldonepeople28]

hi, out of curiosity, what did you get

[@pastuh]

For 2022 viewers my suggestion: Get _modded GoPro_. Mod allows to connect _c-mount_ lens and such is used by most microscopes. If you want live preview on your monitor (by HDMI connection), so get accessory _Media Mod_ SUPER SIMPLE

[@DavLife]

Hi can you advise what I need to connect my sony A7Riii to a Swift SW380T with the best quality? much appreciate if you have any links

[@karl3549]

Great video as always! Please excuse me for being long-winded in the below response for your subscriber's question. I hope it is helpful for anyone who has the patience to read it all. hahaha As far as my personal experiences, I have the following digital cameras (other than underwater and specialized cameras) Fuji S1 Pro (uses Nikon Mounted lenses), Fuji S3 Pro (uses Nikon Mounted lenses), Fuji X-E1 (mirrorless), Fuji X-E3 (mirrorless), Nikon D3500, Nikon D7100, Nikon D800, Canon EOS 20D and Canon EOS60D. The prices have ranged from $150 (ebay, Fuji S1 Pro, after over a decade of use) to over $3,000 (new, Nikon D800 body). Nikon, from the last time I checked, use Sony sensors... but if you're already vested in Nikon lenses and don't like adapters, you will probably stick with Nikon cameras over Sony. You can also get some old, but very nice, lenses from ebay for Nikon for cheap. With all that being said, Price to Performance, I really must say, I've been much more impressed with the Fuji X-E1 (or Fuji X-E3). They use an X-Trans sensor, which negates the requirement for an anti-moire filter. This allows for more visible light to strike the sensor, thus allowing for higher ISO with less light, and does not succumb to the moire effect induced by utilizing a Bayer sensor. I've compared 6400 ISO images from my Fuji X-E1 (APS-C, X-Trans) to my FullFrame 35mm equivalent Nikon D800 (Bayer) and it was VERY hard to see a (quality) difference. Aesthetically, both did a very good job. Both produced a different "feel," as far as image quality, but neither did a bad job. Some Notes: Don't let megapixels fool you! Higher resolution doesn't not necessarily result in higher image quality (and especially not necessarily higher dynamic range). A adage that goes around a lot is... Question: "What is the best camera." Answer: "The one you have with you." Sure, if you have $15-20k, buy all the stuff that I bought and all the dozens of lenses as well. If not, find what is economical with the least amount of induced noise as possible. At 100 ISO, even my old $150 Fuji S1 Pro, 3.4 megapixel camera will, and does, take amazing photos (Fuji S1 and S3 do not do video, neither does the Canon EOS 20D). If you're doing very high magnification through your microscope, you will want a camera that produces low noise/grain at higher ISO. Depending on the purposes, this can drastically change per user as well as per use (I assume, especially for dark-field microscopy). If you want to post cool pics on Facebook, please don't spend a lot of $$$$$, they compress your images anyways, so the benefit of a very expensive camera will be lost. Additional Caveats: I am not an expert on microscopy at all, not even 1%!!! I have some experience in astrophotography. I have a lot of experience with landscape photography. I'm actually still waiting on my Swift SW380T to deliver (ordered a 350T but on ebay, they didn't want to deliver to my APO, so Amazon and the SW380T won). I'm a virtualization/storage/Microsoft engineer, so my recommendations are not geared towards a professional biologist or researcher. I do hope that the information that I've provided can help an entry-level enthusiast. I've been very happy with my X-E1 and X-E3 and I think that they will provide all that you're looking for in a camera (as long as you have the proper adapters).

[@panofish]

What is the adapter you are using and where can I find it?

[@rustynuts4426]

Time to buy this Man a 'coffee' So much valuable information, just think of the money we save with his knoledge

[@esphilee]

I have bought a USB Camera with the Microscope, but not satisfied with the dynamic range. I have tried using the DSLR too, but it was clumsy. I now settled with iphone. Good enough quality, easy to set up, easy to share and upload photos. I set it up on the third view port on top of the scope. Use the leveling App then adjust the position. Unless you have special requirement on the Quality of image, if you are doing it as hobby, or just for record, a iphone is the best option.

[@lodewijkvanwalraven2051]

Very comprehensive video. I recently bought a camera also for microscope use, ended up with a Pentax K-70 because I already have the lenses for those. If not I would probably have gone for one of the Canon or Sony mirrorless cams as they handle video much better. What might also be important is to check the quality of the HDMI output, is it "clean" HDMI or just the image from the camera screen? In most cases it's the latter, so low res and not useful for recording off camera. With regards to sensor size/light sensitivity, I think for dark field, high magnification or to use high shutter speeds for moving subjects it is useful if the camera still produces good quality images at higher ISO speeds.

[@karl3549]

If you ever do have to go to Canon, see if the camera is supported by the side-loaded OS named "Magic Lantern." It has been a few years since I've done cinematography, but for Canon, Magic Lantern was really nice. It's basically all the tweaks and enthusiast settings, without having to flash your whole device.

[@abdelhakmeddoc5568]

Hi Oliver. What are the features of the microscope you want to order from Olympus? It would be a great opportunity to remind people about the fundraising.

[@Sombre666]

Hi Oliver, could you tell me how you power the camera you have attached to your microscope? Do you use standard camera batteries or a mains adaptor? If you use a mains adaptor could you tell me is it a canon adaptor or a generic one?

[@MicrobehunterMicroscopy]

Hi, I use batteries (non-Canon). But thinking about it, using an adapter would make sense, because the camera is connected to the microscope anyway the whole time. The adapters go into the camera instead of a battery with a cable leading out.

[@sackofclams953]

Hi there, would you happen to know if there is some mathematic equation I can use to determine the best diameter for a darkfield patchstop? My microscope uses a single LED as a light source so the patch stops I need are much smaller than the ones I’ve seen other people use. Fortunately I’ve managed to find the perfect diameter for my 4x and 10x objective and if I can just make one for the 40x I’ll be happy since I haven’t really used the 100x that much yet.

[@MicrobehunterMicroscopy]

Not a mathematical one, but I did experiment with the size of the patchstop here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJnLZo2viphor8U

[@glasslinger]

Very nice! You left out something important! The camera software! How easy is it to interface to the depth of focus enhancement software programs, and other image enhancement programs. Many beginners don't understand that a lot of the fantastic images they see are not real time! They are generated with a lot of software manipulation, stitching multiple exposures into the final image. (focus stacking)

[@MicrobehunterMicroscopy]

Yes. I use MS-ICE for stitching (panorama) and Picolay for stacking (combining several images of different focus into one). Contrast enhancement in photoshop or GIMP.

[@oneworldonepeople28]

@@MicrobehunterMicroscopy Hi Oliver 👋 do you have a recommendation for a good mirror less camera for microscopes? I would like to not only use it for the microscope (although main purpose) and really don't like DSLRs for their size and bulk.

[@MicrobehunterMicroscopy]

I had a closer look at the Canon EOS M6 Mark II (but don't own it). There are several youtube reviews of this camera. For microscopy, I would check if you can buy a T2 adapter ring and these seem to be more common for Canon and Nikon (check first). So I would stick to these two brands.

[@oneworldonepeople28]

@@MicrobehunterMicroscopy thanks a lot, I have a concern with that model but don't want to mention it here, can I contact you otherwise?

[@MicrobehunterMicroscopy]

@@oneworldonepeople28 you can send me an email, but again, the only thing that I know about it is from reviews. Is it the 4K crop that you are concerned about?

[@lotharmayring6063]

Die Aufloesung liegt im reellen Zwischenbild des Objektives multipliziert mit der Vergroesserung, mit dem Okular hat das nichts zu tun. Mit dem 100-fachen ist ein Aufloesung der Kamera von 10 Megapixels anzuraten

[@Thalestris24]

You can, of course, tether a dslr to a PC via USB and, in the case of a Canon, use the eos utilities. That lets you use Liveview on your monitor, which is advantageous. You can control the camera via the utilities, and you can save images direct to computer.

[@Martyntd5]

Can the camera record internally while it is tethered to the monitor? I seem to remember the camera will draw power from the USB while running EOS utilities, but you cant simultaneously run the cameras internal functions, which means you would be recording directly onto the PC/Mac via the USB and not onto the cameras SD card. In which case you will probably need USB 3.

[@Thalestris24]

@@Martyntd5 my canon dslrs can be tethered to a PC. The usb connection itself doesn't draw any power. I usually power my camera via a mains adapter. I think you can chose the destination - camera sd card or direct to pc. I normally download to PC Of course I use liveview to prevent vibration.

[@lilarosa8357]

thank you for your very helpful videos. I can only speak for myself but for me it was the best to choose a camera that i could just afford. In my case a Nikon D850 fullframe as i do landscape, wildlife and macro photography as well and the area of application is not limited to microphotography. have in mind that getting a adapter of high quality could be quite expensive, i was lucky and got a complete system, i.e a Nikon labophot with phase contrast, Nikon adapter from a well known manufacturer, phako objectives and trino tube for around 700 Euro. trino tubes alone can be very expensive, e.g. a trino for a Zeiss Standard 16 alone could cost up to 400 Euro without any further adapters or optics. so there are many things to consider ;-)

[@bendirval3612]

I would say sony mirrorless. Very cheap and great quality. The a5100 can be had for a couple of hundred bucks used and is perfect for this application.

[@______4790]

does sony use t2 adaptor rings?

[@dimakowahl]

Приветствую всех! Ну не знаю! Я делаю фото снимки и видео на Canon EOS 80 D. И доволен полностью.

[@lotharmayring6063]

you never should buy components only from one company or a microskope which can only can use parts of one company. The reason why is obvious

[@kightremin]

I'd recommend a 3d printer.

[@Martinko_Pcik]

In my opinion buying DSLR for this is a waste of money. More flexible and upgradable is the combination of 5MP webcam with c-mount together with a computer.

[@lotharmayring6063]

mirrorless are much better because there is non need of ocular optics an the sensor is full format and so resolution is much better

[@weeardguy]

Mirrorless does NOT equal full frame. I just tried my lens and C-mount adapter on my GH5 paired with my Euromex NexiusZoom microscope and either the lens (from C-mount adapter to trinotube on the microscope) sucks BIGTIME, or a dedicated camera is just a far, far better idea. The GH5 isn't bad at all, but with an MFT-sensor, finding the right accesoires is hard.

[@lotharmayring6063]

@@weeardguy i make my own adaptors and microscope tubes . A simple little turning machine dose the job perfect and cost 170 Euros. Also i use a 3d plotter for 200 bugs. and so i save much money I als recomend infinity objectives. Fullframe mirrorles cameras do the best job

[@weeardguy]

@@lotharmayring6063 Unfortunately I do not have the space for a small lathe (I think that's what you mean with 'little turning machine'). I found that putting my MFT camera right over the cameraport without the focus-tube adapter between it, I can get quite a decent picture, at least far better than with the 0,5x optics in place that than connects to the C-mount adapter on the camera.

[@lotharmayring6063]

@@weeardguy that all depends of the specimen. Each preparation ist different and needs his own optical and mechnaical path. I made me a DIY-microscope which consists of an horizontal optical bank, an i can adapt it to every microscopic method. They dont sell such machines. I am researcher and use light microscopy only for overview. New things i f find using an raster electron microscope. Some companys or friends do that for me

[@weeardguy]

@@lotharmayring6063 Of course, but I was surprised to see how bad the C-mount adapter on my GH5, paired with a 0,5x lens between microscope and camera-adapter worked. I got a Euromex VC.3031 camera yesterday and paired with the same lens, the results are just sooo much better that it's just ridiculous.