Tips For Preventing Air Cooled VW Engine Fire

Sorry the video is so long but I really felt I had a lot to say and go over.
The reason for the video was to compile a list of some of the possible causes of engine fire in air cooled VW's beyond the standard fuel line and filter everyone seems to default to as a cause when they see an image of a bug, bus or other on fire.
That's not always the cause!
I put all this together to maybe help educate those who are new, those who are learning or even maybe a reminder to some. What I hope is that this becomes a great reference for people and that those of you who have had other experiences or similar ones to the ones mentioned, please comment. Share what you know. It will only help the VW community. It will only save heartbreak to someone suffering a potentially destroyed VW.
If you see a post about someone's car that has gone up don't be an a-hole about it. Show that you're capable of some empathy. Maybe it's not at all what you think. Maybe they are absolutely devastated by it and were unaware. Maybe it wasn't a case of neglect. They don't need people piling on and crushing them more than what they're potentially already feeling.
Maintenance goes a long way but so does knowledge. Let's spread some knowledge. I feel that is the first step.
SHARE WHAT YOU KNOW IF I MISSED IT OR YOU FEEL I GOT IT WRONG. PLEASE!
SHARE THE VIDEO.
I'm not in it for any money (never have been) just want to help people learn.
Here's a link to the Blazecut video as mentioned in the video above if you are interested in the system and haven't heard of it. Quite nice and seems to be quite effective. Yet another tool to possibly prevent the worst. • JOGR BLAZECUT Automati...
Cheers.

[@michaelmounts1269]

good video…I know someone who lost his beloved Type 1…i use AN style fuel hose…i simply tap everything for NPT…and use NPT to AN adapters-I use an aluminum 100 micron inline filter with AN connections. I use a fuse block rear for the positive battery connections and replaced fuse box in front trunk with marine/blade type box. Finally I carry a small fire extinguisher…$9.80 currently st home depot

[@TheVWGuy]

Let me start by saying that you hit some of the most important highlights about the mentioned engine fires. I have been working VWs since the 70s when they were commonly part of the automobile population and needed everyday repairs and maintenance, and the fuel fed fires happened often, even then, to new and well maintained VWs. Over the years I have transitioned in to a long restoration career and promote all of your points that you cover in your video. I want to add a point for your subscribers, (BEWARE) of inferior carburetor rebuild kits, point one: even with a good kit a needle valve can get stuck open either by a piece of crud or bad over seas quality kit and cause a flood over condition also causing fuel to drench a hot engine and POOF, another possible with these poor quality kits is a diaphragm that dissolves with the fuel we have available today and leaks on same hot engine. THE MOST IMPORTANT TAKE AWAY is that ALL VW owners now and then is to keep a HIGH quality fire extinguisher in the car and within fast reach, and make your fire extinguisher maintenance as important as your fuel line maintenance, It will mean the difference between a trip to the body shop for a spot paint job and engine fix and a total loss, you do dot want to see what happens when the engine case really catches waiting for the FD to arrive, sometimes they have to stand back and wait it out, out of necessity, years ago they carried a carbon or boron like substance to quench the burning metal, today it is not likely.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Great reply. Thanks for sharing that! Much appreciated. Cheers!

[@fargknob]

Excellent video.....as an aircraft mechanic, I agree with you on all points. Air cooled engines are cousins to the VW and it's our job to inspect all the possibilities....can't pull over on a cloud if there's a fire. Thanks for helping all us VW folks be a bit sharper and safer.

[@azmike3572]

Yep...no AAA in the sky.

[@brettsmith2489]

great tip about the fuel filter placement. i wouldn't have even thought about that.

[@snowman333-]

important topic with today's "the mechanic will take care of it" attitude. almost nobody takes care of their machines today!

[@markamodeo5934]

Great tips.. It is often to easy to just jump in your car and go. A pre start routine only take a few extra minutes and will save the anguish of watching your beloved VW in flames. Keep on keeping on air cooled style.

[@stephanieshipman6764]

Thank you for this. A lot of things I didnt know that I didn't know. I just got my first vw engine so I guess I will be buying a fire extinguisher!

[@jimmd53]

Very well thought out and laid out as it is. I had a fire in my 1968 Beetle back in 1974 which was due to the fuel hose coming off the carburetor brass intake port. At the time I was 19 years old and new to Beetles. Everything you said is true and complete especially the part of the person watching his Bug on fire feeling like shit. The last thing he needs is a pounding by some idiot who thinks his shit doesn’t stink. You said it nicely, everyone learns as he goes along with maintaining and driving these VW Beetles. I commend you sir, you are an honest guy.

[@vw68autobug]

The main reason VW rear engined cars catch fire is that the pipe coming from Carburetor or fuel pump being pulled out and especially if there is a fuel filter in the engine bay bouncing around with fuel in it. ... I don't like the cotton covered fuel hose that VW used as if it is old You cannot see the cracks that develop ... but if You use a Gates fuel hose You will see the cracks if they develop .and do use hose clamps.. BUT PLEASE Don't fit a fuel filter of any kind in Your engine bay.... it is inviting a fire.... and always replace the fan belt if it looks worn or cracked at all.... and PLEASE place something on top of YOUR Battery under the rear seat.... I have a large truck mudflap over the top of MY Battery , as if people kneel on the back seat over the top of the battery , the battery will short out and burn the seat first..... and always carry at least ONE FIRE EXTINGUISHER with You at all times.... Lee 68autobug

[@altered148fiat]

BS ON ff in engine bay

[@nemobuscaptain3245]

Listen to this guy

[@nemobuscaptain3245]

@@altered148fiat Ive seen plenty leaking just waiting on a spark. And that was before they were a 2.99 part made in China.

[@altered148fiat]

@@nemobuscaptain3245 50+years sold and installed 1000s never ever had a problem. people like me well it is people like you that have blewit way out of apportion have a good day sir

[@mrjamrol]

@@altered148fiat I once blew something out of apportion then had to share the blame.

[@mukashi911]

First of all I have been working and restoring VW Bugs for many years. Your information and advice is SPOT ON!! I too have my filter over the transaxle. I use a bigger diameter metal can type filter and support it to avoid vibration issues. If everyone will follow your advice they will greatly reduce the possibility of a fire. The only thing I would add would be to be mindful of old dry rotted wiring on old VW's. I currently have a 70 VW and I found and replaced some critical wiring because of dried and cracked wires in attempt to avoid an electrical fire. And when doing that, ALWAYS use the original wire size and wire rated for heat. EXCELLENT JOB!!

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Big thanks. I did forget to mention the electrical potentials back there. Thanks very much for the addition. Cheers!

[@BeatleBaly]

Also I changed to an electric fuel pump with a filter before it then a pressure regulator. Much safer and efficient.

[@discerningmind]

I did give you a thumbs up. I have a long history of owning air cooled VW's. Changing the fuel lines every six months to one year is overkill. ONLY use the OEM fabric covered fuel lines and they'll last for years. Using OEM fuel lines is the single most important thing you can do to advert fire and have trouble free lines. As well, by using the OEM fuel lines, if they are being attached to OEM fittings, there is no need to use clamps. VW designed the system to be that way. If an OEM line is removed for some reason, don't reuse it. These lines are very difficult to pull off, and become weakened when removed. As a result, consider using a longer length of line when installing new lines so you can cut off the damaged end if a line did have to be removed for some reason. Happily pay the additional cost of OEM lines as you're buying the best, and your saving some money in not having to buy clamps. All Fire Extinguishers- Once a year, turn the extinguisher upside down, hold it against your chest, and give it some good strong taps with a rubber mallet to break up any caking of the suppressant material inside the canister. You'll feel a reverberation when the suppressant material breaks loose. In doing this it assures that when needed all of the suppressant can be expelled. I mark my calendar to do this to my extinguisher's every June. As well, check the date tag attached to the trigger, the extinguisher has to be redone every six years. This when a reputable fire extinguisher business empties out the suppressant and installs new suppressant and propellant.

[@pacificovw9522]

All good points. And for all those dudes that put the $1 plastic fuel filter with their $1500+ engine, good luck to you. Just ask yourself this: how would you ever know after the fire if your fuel filter was the cause of the fire or not? when all you have left are ashes. With money, you can probably hire Sherlock Holmes to find out for you.

[@brianzimmer5532]

Good tips for us all! Thank you! I am in the process of replacing all my fuel hoses and lines in the frunk of my 68 T1, and will be moving my filter to above my transaxle. Thank you!

[@fakhroo5]

Spot on from the Kingdom of Bahrain. I got 2 air-cooled cars and u know what u r talking about.

[@kenward4293]

This is a superb video- very well done, thank you for a thoughtful discussion.

[@juanortega4904]

Excellent video, very informative, covers a lot of air cooled VW issues. Keep theses videos coming… thanks.

[@catrenak.1971]

I appreciate your video ! I'm actively searching out a vw bus and am not familiar with these engines. I found your video to be informative as to what I should look for when bus shopping. 👍😊

[@leobardolopez2811]

Great presentation. My first time commenting on any KZbin channel. Thank you for all your great advice and candor. Don't have a bug yet, but am learning a lot. Keep it up!

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Nice! Good stuff. I’m always still learning too but glad to have helped you get your feet under you. Cheers! 👍

[@apodaca309]

Many moons of fire fighting all points hold true heat fuel and oxygen all on place add to that harley type vibrations =FIRE we are new to bugs so again great advise. Thank you

[@chrismacdonald4858]

Thanks buddy for your layout, the points (lots apply for my 71 bus) and your helpful attitude

[@IAm1InTheIAm]

Another consideration not mentioned: VW's use METRIC diameter hoses, so the SAE down at the local parts store is gonna be larger than the OEM size, and hence, prone to loosening, even with hose clamps on every joint. I use marine USCG rated fuel line which is pretty thick walled and it works great. Good vid, Dude- it's aboot time somebody did a comprehensive vid on the subject, ey!🙃✌️

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Yes. Excellent suggestion. I should have mentioned that. You are 100% correct.

[@eddiegary7817]

Thanks! Good tips about the lock wire and suppression systems. I’ll be doing those to my 69 ghia!

[@rachellecaporrimo7668]

Thank you for this video, I learned a lot. Great job.

[@marcothibodeau8212]

Awesome tips. Went to place a security wire on the carb inlet. And getting a fire extinguisher .

[@angel.montanopeabody2012]

Very helpful and comprehensive info

[@OutdorsDanny]

Good video. I just took the engine out of my 73 beetle and the port came out of the carburetor just like you said. It took almost no force. Fire extinguisher is the 1st thing I put in any new vehicle I get. I have put 3 of my own vehicles out but none of them was my beetle.

[@jamesmoore9511]

I always have a Co2 fire extinguisher in the car or around when working on my bug - 30 years ago I had a stack fire with my 911 Porsche and just happened to have an extinguisher handy (distorted the plastic air intake hood), lucky that was all.

[@stevelozano9523]

Note: if you leave your key in the ON position, it won't pump fuel because they have a mechanical fuel pump. Which means fuel does not pump unless the crank is spinning.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Yes. That was noted in the video. Key in “on” position was in reference to those with aftermarket electric fuel pumps which kick on when key is in on position. Cheers.

[@johnhayfield1106]

Good video. I'll take some of those tips away with me, especially the wire securing one. Thank you.

[@djjonnybong]

OE Tarboard is amazingly flammable

[@alixcarmichael9795]

Great video Dude !! A lot of good points that often get over looked.

[@merrickray]

so in my day, mid 80's the problem was the fan belt. it would crack with age, delaminate and the outside strip would whack the fuel line and basically remove the hose from the pump.. it would also whack the distributor cap and break it. so sparks everywhere and fuel pumping.. Its lost. Critical is to check the fan belt for cracking and replace it immediately.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

I did mention that also toward the end of the video. 👍 Cheers! Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@billrandolph9318]

What a nice video. Very helpful. Easy to follow. Thanks so much. I have had 2 massive ‘68 Bug engine fires. One was 20 years ago and the other one was a few weeks ago. I suspect worn hoses in both cases. The fires just burn and burn til the Fire Department gets there. One contributing factor is that the sound proofing material is made out of TAR!. Tar burns and burns and burns. There are triangular panels on each side of the engine compartment and one rectangular one behind the fan shroud. Why in the world this material was chosen is a mystery to me. One my rebuild, I am planning to have either no panels at all or fireproof panels. Any suggestions would be helpful.

[@rodgerwest3116]

Good job👍🏻. Also once in awhile inspect your running engine in the dark for spark leakage ie ignition source 🤠.

[@deandye3255]

great video and safety tips I'm in the process of building my grandson his first car a 1969 VW Rod ( not a rat rod ) and like many the fuel filter is between the pump and carp. never had issues but I'm one that checks often. However since I'm giving it to a 16 year old I'm going to move it and look for other safety issues . Once again thanks for the great Video

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Lucky kid!! Nice work grandpa. Thanks for the kind words.

[@azmike3572]

Good post, but I just had to chuckle at "between the pump and carp"! I've never seen ANY fish installed inside the motor area! Besides, carps are scavengers and there's better choices out there.

[@Volkswagenplanet]

Worst feeling ever. I had a engine fire on a OEM low mileage 67 beetle. My fuel line backed off the carb inlet.

[@larrylang245]

Good video it makes you think 🤔

[@charlesgass8121]

Great video, I have 2 VW’s and was checking my bugs out in the garage and one of mine had a glass filter I always have extra plastic filters on had thankfully because I found a crack on the reverse side of the filter would have never seen it normally if I wasn’t just checking things out because I had nothing else to do.. so just switched it out and was thinking about how close that could have been..

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Nice find! 👍

[@donbailey4054]

Thank you.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Cheers!

[@lisab4842]

I ran across your video some time ago and bought a fire extinguisher. Last week i washed the car shined it all up. Checked the lines, fuel filter still had a small fire. Caught it within about 10 seconds but still some damage. Mechanic said it was the coil overheated

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Damn!! Glad you were able to save it! 👍👍👍

[@donbailey4054]

I really appreciate your help. Thank you.

[@martyroshak5452]

Any thoughts on installing an after market gas tank that fits, in the back bay of my 71 super?

[@darryltaztaylor7434]

Cool brother,I think it's nice that you took ur time out to make this video...you didn't have to do this and it's very admirable to look out for ur fellow vw'ers....thanks,Darryl

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Cheers man. Appreciate the comment! If I can save just ONE person from suffering a fire incident than it’s way more than worth it. Education and awareness is a major part of prevention. I didn’t know this stuff when I first got into it either so if I can help speed a new owners learning curve than I’ve succeeded. 👍

[@GarageMisadventures]

Good thoughts on this. I have had my Thing and Bus for about a year, and I need to do a few of these things (Replace fuel lines and move fuel filter.) Thanks for the helpful video.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Garage Misadventures yeah dude. Do it quick. Cheers! Have fun with your gear. Nice bus!

[@nemobuscaptain3245]

Great advise on getting the fuel filter out of the engine compartment (and away from any sparks) or pulling on the brass ports. Get rid of the braided hose crap from the 1930s that isn't designed for ethanol. Get Gates Barricade or similar. J30R14 is the newest rating and it is much better resisting ethanol. If it does not say the rating on the hose, it isn't rated for ethanol, period. No matter what a salesman tells you. J30R7 and J30R9 are also ethanol rated but lesser ratings now. Add what we used to call "Mercedes" clamps now usually called FI clamps. Dont get those worm gear ones that damage the hose. Consider safety wire the brass ports like air craft mechanics do for aircooled engines (very similiar to VW aircooled). Google type 2 library safety wire type2.com/rvanness/safetwis.htm Consider adding a electric fuel cutoff valve close to the gas tank. Yes VW came from the factory with crappy 1930s spec braided fuel hose (J30R2) and no clamps but that is no reason for you to continue it. They didn't come with relays or fuses on many of the hot wires either, some running the length the car and back. It doesn't mean it isn't stupid and cheap. There is a reason VWs have been burning since the beginning.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Cheers. Thanks for the suggestions. Safety wire is mentioned at 11:10 in the video (image included for clarity for those not aware), clamps mentioned elsewhere as well. I also mention not to use geared clamps even though they are better than nothing as long as they’re not overly tight and cutting into the line. Lastly, I’d argue that braided hose is fine as long as it’s swapped out regularly and is a quality brand. I buy German line and is fine for the fuel where I am. Wish I’d have spoken more about some possible electrical issues. Maybe that’s for another video. Thanks for your input. 👍

[@monakeegan6380]

Great video for us non-mechanics. I learned a lot. thank you!

[@surlycrosscheck1]

mona Keegan fantastic! Exactly what I was hoping. Appreciate the comment very much. Cheers!

[@fredbatie2888]

mine cought fire today but it an be fixed i well replace the carb with a new one with screwin fitting thanks a lot

[@tomasalvarez6040]

Great vid. So, ultimately..what size fuel hose should i order 5mm, 6mm?..and whats the overall consensus in the vw community about braided, or regular fuel hose from local autoparts store?

[@surlycrosscheck1]

5mm is the OEM size for fuel line if you're running stock stuff. QUALITY braided line is fine but one should always still swap it out at least once per year to be safe. I order German lines from Wolfsburg West. I think Cip1 and Jbugs also carry the German lines. An important note to consider though is what the fuel is like where you live. Where I'm at there is still relatively low amount of ethanol in fuel. Some parts of the world have loads of it in their fuels so be mindful. If you're in an area where a large portion of ethanol is present in the fuel, it's safer to go with a line that is rated for it. Personally, I like braided line. There is nothing wrong with it whatsoever if you're on top of it. It's folks that leave it for years on end or literally never change the original stuff that give it a bad name.

[@emilycarter128]

Thanks for this video.

[@TheIsuruSL]

Yeah about that glass filters .some filters looks like glass but plastic i have personally experienced it. Due to heat in the engine compartment it started bending and starts dripping fuel.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Damn! That’s no good. Thanks for the info. 👍

[@1pwatson1]

10 out 10 thanks for all your info, I’m not at the moment running an in-line fuel filter because I didn’t want to put it in the engine Bay because of the restricted area any chance you can show where you have fitted. Thanks........

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Cheers. If you drop bellow the car you’ll see where the metal fuel line comes out of the tunnel. I put it right there then connect another section of line to the steel portion that then goes through the firewall. The filter is down at the trans essentially.

[@1pwatson1]

@@surlycrosscheck1 thanks for the quick response, I’ve just found out also I don’t have the grommet in the firewall so yet again thanks, not sure what time it is where you are but it’s 11.20 here in London👍🏻

[@slomango7927]

Scariest situation I had was my carb float got stuck and was just pouring gas out of the over flow everywhere.....could’ve been a very bad fire if I wouldn’t have caught it in time.

[@michaelgarbett3099]

Happened to me today, got the fire out as soon as possible and luckily it seems fine now but will be taking it in before I do anything. Scary stuff.

[@bobross4237]

Good stuff! I try to change all the fuel lines, under the tank, out of the tunnel and in the engine compartment. Locating the filter underneath causes no inconvenience as I am changing the fuel hose anyway. I premake the hose with the filter in place then I just have to tighten two hose clamps. I also will take a sharp small center punch and lightly indent the aluminum around the brass nipples on the carb and pump. If you look closely you might see where this was done at the factory and I just push a bit of metal in towards the nipple. If I find a loose brass nipple I also will pull it out and use some green loctite and then use my punch to set it in place.

[@yoshinoyajones8924]

Ive come up with the best cure for fuel fed fires on VW's. The EV conversion!!! LOL just jokin!! 42 vw's since 1979 and still daily drivin my 70' 1600 powered hightop bus. 1 almost fire in 93' in my 65' 11 window day camper. my perfect, installed 3 years prior, metal line rubbed on the steel kadron manifold!! and caught it while it was smoking in 30 degree weather. great vid, but curious, you said 69' carb was original but you have a riser between it and the manifold???

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Great eye bud! Nice catch! I love it. The carburetor is original to the car but the manifold is not. The original manifold saw the previous owner hacksaw the risers off when they plugged. I had severe icing issues of course so replaced the manifold from one I got at Cip1. Turns out it was way shorter so it hit my generator. I was pretty bummed. I put the spacer in to clear it. In the meantime I purchased an OEM one and cleaned out the plugged risers. Whenever I take it all apart again I’ll put an OEM one back in and get rid of the aftermarket trash one. Despite needing a lot of work when I got it, this car is numbers matching 👍 Didn’t know that when I bought it but began to suspect it more and more when I started really digging in. Birth certificate gave me the proof I was hoping for. Pretty happy about that. 👍

[@p24p14]

I never understood how do this... How do you make the custom can "sleeves" for the ignition coil? Those things are so sick! Do you just cut the top of any aluminum can that fits, slip it on, and reattach the bracket? Or is there more to it than that?

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Nope. That’s essentially it. Typically the can is larger than the coil so you’ll sometimes need to cut an extra slit on the back so you can get it tighter. The can I have is in keeping with my Frostie Root Beer theme (also made a custom shift knob with bottle cap from ‘69 and cooler with Frostie theme) and is a period correct can from 1969. The collector I purchased it from was all worried about a slight mark on the seam. I didn’t have the heart to tell him I’d be cutting it for this application. 😂

[@p24p14]

@@surlycrosscheck1 @surlycrosscheck1 Thanks for the quick reply! Okay awesome! I def want to do this with my bus with a WD 40 can or something similar. Maybe I'll also go to an old antique store and buy a vintage can, could be really cool! Awesome video and some great pointers!

[@surlycrosscheck1]

@@p24p14 cheers! WD40 would be cool! 👍

[@BeatleBaly]

FYI, the new fuel eats rubber! Change every part/line in fuel system to prevent either a fire or rubber in your main jet... like mine.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Ethanol content is still very low where I live so it’s not as much of an issue. But yes. Fuel can be an issue. I make mention of that in the video but maybe I should have gone into more detail. Maybe a part two is in order. 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@azmike3572]

You certainly are NOT "full of it". You'll never know how many bug fires you may have prevented. But where can I buy the better hose clamps, as pictured in the clip at 11:11?

[@surlycrosscheck1]

There are different styles of fuel line clamp but you can find them at many online VW sources or even Autozone I’m pretty sure. Worth the purchase. 👍 Thanks for checking out the video. If I saved even one single car from being destroyed, I’d be so happy. Never know. Maybe this video has helped some folks. That’s all I can hope for. Thanks again.

[@OutdorsDanny]

My alternator almost set mine on fire! I had something go wrong with my alternator and my car wouldn't start as if the battery was dead. Mine has an alternator not a generator. I hooked jumper cables up to it thinking I must have left the key on and still nothing. Went to the back of the car while jumper cables were still hooked up and my alternator was smoking profusely from the inside. I unhooked the jumper cables which were red hot and started the process of putting in a new alternator.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Wowza!!

[@42222]

I've got an old pierburg fuelpump on my bug. It has a very fine screen built in and servicable. So i wont be running any fuel filter.

[@OkFixer]

Ah-ha congratulations sir! No one seems to know about the two filters vw put in the car.....tank and pump. I am perplexed by the need for a clear filter, and two more connections over all that wizzing sparking and hot metal. All that vw stuff was best. Carb, pump, hoses, pinch clamps. It was all engineered by eggheads with slide rules to last a long and SAFE time. The only thing I had done was a barbed inlet screwed into the carb modification by Volkzbitz.com

[@brianchisnell1548]

They never caught fire in the day. Looser mods

[@surlycrosscheck1]

Thanks for the useless response. They actually DID catch fire back in the day just not at the rate of today since things were new. At the time, a failure of some sort would be needed. I’d say the major reason for fire is cars are requiring far more maintenance than they’re getting. After all, many (including this one) are over half a freaking century old. I put the work into creating this video to help folks understand and learn. A well maintained car should be fine.

[@TheVWGuy]

Let me start by saying that you hit some of the most important highlights about the mentioned engine fires. I have been working VWs since the 70s when they were commonly part of the automobile population and needed everyday repairs and maintenance, and the fuel fed fires happened often, even then, to new and well maintained VWs. Over the years I have transitioned in to a long restoration career and promote all of your points that you cover in your video. I want to add a point for your subscribers, (BEWARE) of inferior carburetor rebuild kits, point one: even with a good kit a needle valve can get stuck open either by a piece of crud or bad over seas quality kit and cause a flood over condition also causing fuel to drench a hot engine and POOF, another possible with these poor quality kits is a diaphragm that dissolves with the fuel we have available today and leaks on same hot engine. THE MOST IMPORTANT TAKE AWAY is that ALL VW owners now and then is to keep a HIGH quality fire extinguisher in the car and within fast reach, and make your fire extinguisher maintenance as important as your fuel line maintenance, It will mean the difference between a trip to the body shop for a spot paint job and engine fix and a total loss, you do dot want to see what happens when the engine case really catches waiting for the FD to arrive, sometimes they have to stand back and wait it out, out of necessity, years ago they carried a carbon or boron like substance to quench the burning metal, today it is not likely.

[@surlycrosscheck1]

TheVW1500Guy great response. Thanks a ton.

[@nemobuscaptain3245]

A fuel time aircooled VW and Porsche mechanic just showed me pics of a new carb from you know where leaking between the halves. They didn't gasket it at all.