Building the TotalBoat Sport Dory: Episode 35 - Varnish

[@tykellerman6384]

Very talented craftsman

[@mikeburns3147]

I like your focus on quility😊

[@williamsnyder740]

Brushing on the varnish means your getting close to her maiden voyage. What a great series this has been, you have done it again Lou. Can't wait to see her afloat. Looking forward to your next project.

[@cloudninephoto]

The boat hanging like that would not look out of place in an art gallery. I’d rather look at this than any so called work of art. Awesome job thanks.

[@Aa-wv4gh]

Impeccable workmanship.

[@DullBoyJack]

These last couple videos are so bittersweet! It's so much fun to see the boat take its final form, but seeing it so close to completion means the series is almost over. I can't wait to see it on the water, and what project will come next after this. Thank you Louis!!

[@richardbohlingsr3490]

The brightwork really shines and dresses up the dory. That oak finishes up super and holds up under wear and tear well.

[@WildBillFlysRC]

I'm a professional painter and i think you did great! following this build has been fun. can't wait for more!

[@chrishoesing5455]

What a fun thing to watch, man I love these boat building series. You sir are a joy to listen too and watch work. Down to earth, full of wisdom, and enjoying what you do. I find advertising to be such a nasty annoyance, but I don't even mind the whole Total Boat angle here. Its probably the best advertising I can recall at the moment really. The boat is just beautiful, with its elegant curves, and the shiny paint and varnish. I wish I had the time for an epic project like this. I am making a set of oars at the moment, but they are for my old beater aluminum boat though. Best of luck with your future endeavors, and thank you for spending your time sharing your skills and passion for what you do.

[@Pete-z6e]

A man who enjoys his work is lucky indeed. Nice one Louis.

[@kevinparker7953]

If you find a job you love, you don't have to work a day in your life.

[@garybrooks1194]

Your dory is a thing of beauty!

[@dugsey8490]

brilliant, nice to see a real craftsman at work, even at 75 I learnt a few tips.

[@AndrewEllisAndymanout]

Craftsmanship is an art worth preserving. Your videos are fun to watch. I wish you many years of fruitful work my fine fellow.

[@robertb5437]

Louis awesome videos, as a wood worker ( for over 30 years) i think you use a lot of great techniques.i was showed a lot of these old school techniques from older carpenters as learned the trade, and they still work great. RDB

[@jameslatham3521]

I could hang that boat from my ceiling as art!! Man!! It is beautiful.

[@dozer1642]

This is the most beautiful little boat I’ve ever seen. I really can’t wait to see you rowing it with a huge grin on your face. Thank you for posting!

[@raytheron]

There's nothing, but nothing as good on a boat as great brightwork, and yours is tops, Lou! Just love the varnished oak against the white paint. Splendid, maestro, simply splendid!

[@missyboomal]

I agree with you Lou, I love the look of properly varnished white oak. Makes all the steps you take to get there worthwhile . What a beautiful dory you've created there. I like you can hardly wait for launch day. Congrats, and thank you for sharing all your knowledge and insights with this project Cheers!

[@inmyopinion6836]

Hey Lou , Looks like your having too much fun ! The burl in that breast hook is MONEY ! Really nice detail on the whole boat . It's been fun to watch . Thanks for the show .

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Great video Lou. I have to agree with the blue stripe just below guard. Really set of the varnished oak form the beautiful white of the hull. Thank you once again for the instructional video.

[@benedictrehiesi5166]

I've enjoyed all the episodes so far but I'm loving these last episodes about finishing, that's when you can tell the amount of work and effort that has been put into this boat, Great job!

[@Snoopy_59]

What a beautiful boat it has come so far.

[@powaybob]

Learned the "Holes in the can rim" trick over 60 years ago from my dad. Still works great.

[@jameslovegren7293]

Mine too. but only 50 years.

[@ronwatson4902]

Looking good sir. Looking forward to seeing the finished boat on the water.

[@sethile]

Fantastic! Man is she ever looking great!! Love the hanging upside down solution...

[@marshwood6945]

Great series on this dory - our insights and the “whys” behind the “hows” really make your videos exceptional.

[@thomasmarchetti8639]

Such beautiful work Lou! Real, valuable and utilitarian art! Captured wonderfully by great camerawork Halsey!

[@offpherj7884]

Looking good! Getting closer and closer to the water. I know you can hardly wait to row this master piece...……………..

[@robertt5992]

BEAUTIFUL WORK. I've really enjoyed the video series and am amazed at your talent and attention to detail. Thank you

[@projekt6_official]

Love the videos, Lou. Thanks for sharing!

[@JimHausch]

A Melville reference! Lou never ceases to amaze. :-) I notice you are using good quality badger hair brushes. A nice "tip" video might be about brush selection, cleaning, and storage. Badger brushes really are quality tools that require diligent care. It's nice to know when they're NOT needed so you can use throw away foam or chip brushes.

[@cvmikeray2]

Looking great, can't wait to see her in the water!

[@themodelboatbuilder4689]

Another great finish!!!

[@Corgiz]

Great job your on the road to the silver play button

[@panamericaco]

Looking great, Lou!

[@rowgler1]

I have a question regarding red vs. white oak. White oak seems very hard to find, but it has closed pores. I always heard it was more rot resistant and prized by boat builders. Red oak has a porous capillary structure, so why is it not commercially pressure treated with a a water repellant? You always have a good reason for everything you do, and explain it very well. When we put a lot of time and effort into things it makes sense to make sure they last and don't self destruct because of poor choice or availability of materials. My father and I built a bridge with red oak timbers and had to replace it 15 years later. I respect your skills and hard won experience, great videos, very few people know how to do this anymore.

[@charleshart6992]

Great work - looking good!

[@Hindukushsailing]

Man you converse very well. Man you make the crook limbs stand out. have fun mate!!!!!!!!!!

[@karltraunmuller7048]

Looks beautiful!

[@jonathanguerra3663]

Thanks for the holes in the can tip!!!

[@seancarlin8563]

Great job Louis, a couple videos back you mentioned about showing how you sharpen scraper blades, i hope that is still in the plans.

[@nigelwalton4769]

Beautiful!!!

[@lobster8009]

A nice and smooth clearcoat is good on wood and has a long tradition in boat and yacht building but one thing i learned to love is instead of sanding the clear coat i hit i with something thats best described as scotchbright but made of steel. Sort of a very fine steel wool. You just go over the coat not even creating much dust and it gives you a really smooth yet textured surface. Works particulary well on Oak but any wood with strong texture will give a great haptic feeling.

[@kentblairl]

Brass wool was another option, esp if the chosen finish is a water based polycrylic, as little bits of steel left on the surface will rust and stain. In any case the key on the first few coats is to not sand so much that the ridges of the varnish are sanded down to bare wood, rather fill up the valleys. I don't mind there being a little grip on surfaces that we sit on and grab on to, the thwarts and rails, vs a slick slick finish.

[@UlrichVIII]

can't wait to watch you rowing it!

[@gkcooper]

It's just soooo good!

[@thomasmarchetti8639]

Another brilliant solution; suspending the dory upside down by the oarlocks!

[@rodgerdodger280]

one thing I remember from the old days, as well as punching drain holes in the lower tin lid seal, was to put a small piece of wood on the surface of the paint in the tin and put a lighted match on it before hammering the lid shut, the match burnt out removing the oxygen in the tin and eliminated the skin that used to form on the surface in a previously opened paint tin

[@boatrat]

Nowadays you can get little aerosol cans of... I think it's Nitrogen, if I remember right. I recall seeing it in one of the specialist woodworking catalogs, from one of those outfits that sells a lot of tools and hardware and cabinetry doodads and shop jigs & etc., along with finishing products and such. Allegedly the whatever gas it was, is supposed to be slightly heavier than ambient air, so physically displaces the oxygen out of the top of the can, if you then seal the lid right away before the surrounding atmosphere re-mixes with it. Your way is undoubtedly cheaper... but the pure gas-displacement approach (assuming it works as advertised) would prevent the crumbly charcoal-ash remains of the match from mixing into the paint if the can got jostled or tipped.

[@hotrodhog2170]

I never heard of that! I just take a piece of saran plastic wrap and jam it into the can so it is in contact with the liquid and leave the loose ends hanging out then mash on the top. I have also heard of storing cans upside down.

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

In a boat building workshop there should also a shielding gas welder be present. I put a slow shot of Argon (heavier than air) from the TIG machine into the can before closing for a longer period. Works well and doesn't contain the fire hazard.

[@chetthejet3896]

Like one of the replies ......Your boat is a work of ART. Excellent job Lou.

[@JustJimWillDo]

Bonus thumbs up for the Spun Yarn / Alfred Loomis reference!

[@robertbrunston5406]

Nice boat! I would like to see it on the water! Thanks.

[@larsfrandsen2501]

Love your craftsmanship! My 95-year-old father is an old-school cabinet maker. Good to see that kind of understanding of the material and respect for the craft is still alive. One personal question, if you don’t mind: I can hear your accents is New England. Were you born there? Thanks for your great videos!

[@thomasarussellsr]

Sealer and varnish look great, so far. Would you sand and run a second layer of sealer, or just go to the varnish after sanding the first coat of sealer? It wasn't all that clear to me. Would a second coat of sealer/primer help the varnish adhere better, or cause some trouble of some sort?

[@hotrodhog2170]

Ohhh it's almost finished! So excited! Lou, any ideas for the next project?

[@jammy72]

its looking great not long tll we see it in the water then on ebay.what are you building next?

[@petruvasiu9740]

Hello from Romania, Lou ! Your work and your voice are irresistible ! I m looking forward to see you working and talking to the next project. If you need some help, send me an invitation and some Visa... LOL . You are doing a fantastic work. Thank you !

[@arkansas1336]

A nice finish! ....13

[@tereseduffy6591]

Can you talk about the types of paint brushes you use and why you use a particular type of brush with the different products that you use.

[@timbone4925]

Lou, great build, very engaging series, would it be possible to build using marine ply rather than cedar for the planking and bottom? maybe a bit heavier but possibly cheaper and more readily available.

[@tomvanscoyoc9715]

Hey Lou, question for you about this combination in varnish & oil on the gunwales... Does half-varnishing and half-oiling of the inwale put the varnish at higher risk of chipping off? I'm about to do this exact process on my 14' sharpie and want to make sure there's no chance of moisture entering the wood up under the varnish. I love your videos. This upside-down method is about to save me a whole lot of time and frustration. Thanks!

[@lanesteele240]

The blue tape would make an excellent pin stripe

[@jimdodd3462]

I treat my gunnels of my canoe, while the canoe is upside down. I made tall X-Brackets, out of 2x2 s that fit inside of the hull. They elevate the hull enough, that I can stand up under the canoe. 6 '. Doesn't scratching the varnish on your gunnels show a white streak ? I've used Teak Watco for years, and scratches don't show. Another Great video ! Thanks !

[@boathousejoed9005]

I've used that TotalBoat sealer,good stuff.p.s. who the h#ll would give a thumbs down to Lous video?

[@ToyProtecter]

Agree, must be a small bunch of 13 sour grape trolls from a rival paint supplier 😉

[@lanesteele240]

If you get videos in your suggested box, if you thumbs down it, you will see less of that video.

[@MatthewHolevinski]

My God.... Louis should have his own religion or something. He is like, the Messiah of Badassery. My hero.

[@caseycbenn]

So the varnish never goes on the inside of recessed surfaces of the rail where the plastic ribs are?

[@Kalimerakis]

maybe you can even leave the oars (close to) octagonal, some tools in the old days had octagonal handles because it follows the natural shape of your hand and makes for a good grip. just an idea, beautiful workmanship!

[@santobrocato8012]

Louis does shaking the can cause bubbles in the sealer?

[@Pushyhog]

Lou:), i’d haf ta have a 1” brush with my nerves. Thanks again.

[@dennishillman6205]

Chuck, is there a reason to oil the interior rather than use a coat of epoxy?

[@jonbates501]

Lou: How about talking about cleaning up brushes and rollers afterwards? Or do you just toss them?

[@rjtumble]

Hi Lou, so why Varnish on these surfaces and oil on the rest? It's coming out beautiful.

[@ccswede]

Did you remove and replace the blue tape after each coat of varnish. You did that with the paint. Do you have a new workshop yet? You discussed this early in the series.

[@deantubeful]

Looking good ! I've just had a thought about the upside down because the masking wouldn't stick and whilst I like the fact that there should be no chance of contaminating the surfaces to be oiled I did wonder could we have used a wax that would be scraped off afterwards ? Would we be able to remove the wax enough so not to prevent the later oil coating from penetrating well ? I think the extra work would have been too costly in this case but I wanted to ask for your thoughts on the idea of temporary waxing as a masking ? Getting excited for the launch here !

[@drewt3210]

Varnish is sooo thin & runny. Seems like it would run right over wax in a heartbeat. Plus, why make more work when there's a simple solution with nearly no work? I'm not slamming you or your idea, just my two cents ;-)

[@oheebatch_algorytmu]

Its really hard to get wax from wood

[@rwe2156]

Louis what about the inner surfaces of the guard and inrail?

[@Pushyhog]

Iam gonna start doing the holes in top of can, since lid seals anyway.

[@normanlesmerises792]

Recommend a flat tip screwdriver vice the philips. Drive the tip in until the shaft just touches the can and you won't damage the can.

[@joshuawalker7054]

"Upside Right" - I wasn't aware that was another way to say "Rightside Up", but makes sense.

[@bellevue260]

How long would it take you to build this boat without the filming?

[@fisheater844]

Lou great as usual, you don’t have to take the tape off between coats.

[@gk621]

Lou, wouldn't it have been easier to roll it then tip it with a brush?

[@stanrylands6693]

Surprised you didn’t recess the row lock sockets

[@CameronSharpPottery]

Could you oil it first and then varnish? Some woodworkers oil a project and then varnish over that.

[@sjobang]

Why does'nt cans of paint come with holes in the rim, in the first place, if it has no effect on how well their contents are sealed?

[@UweBehrendt]

nice thanks

[@createlovehappy]

Could you have oiled the inside first to seal the wood? And then varnish? I’m A woodworker and on some project we oil wood before varnish

[@eformance]

16:10 Lou is visiting the Church of Dory.

[@53jed]

3 coats against UV?

[@createlovehappy]

Why not varnish up inside that area between inside and outside? That piece is attached to frames with one fastener in the center of the board and if only one surface is sealed with varnish it will not swell but the backside will swell which could cause cupping.

[@barrykarow906]

When you say oil, do you mean linseed oil or tongue oil?

[@drewt3210]

...also, boiled or raw & why?

[@staxter6]

Tung

[@JoelWetzel]

teak?

[@snipper1ie]

Is there any other wood that has the look of oak? The END is nigh. As I came to the end of a 1000Km walk, me mind wandered. What's next?

[@captainsmate5770]

What color is that..?

[@kurthougaard557]

Har jeg set rigtigt at du også har brugt kobber nitter i samlingerne?

[@kurthougaard557]

I hvilket afsnit ser man at du sætter nitterne i? har jeg misset et afsnit? lige som spanterne Hvordan du finder frem til deres form mm

[@outdoorlifethailand]

😊👌👍

[@gschady]

sip your beer every time he says "really nice" "like I said" "actually" or "medullary rays" .. HICCUP luv ya Louis .. hiccup ;^)

[@akdonlh9924]

Who else tried to blow off the dust when Lou was sanding

[@lanesteele240]

I have never heard it called “tipping the paint”.

[@debeeriz]

i think a foam roller would have made your job easier underneath the boat

[@RI0T999]

No vapors inside that hull. Come on Lou, tell us why you really hung it upside down.

[@marcball7454]

so why don’t paint manufacturers put holes around the top louis?

[@TipsfromaShipwrightvideos]

Great question!

[@willierants5880]

I swear I've seen this starting to happen, but can't confirm.

[@precariousbyte]

probably money. Might only cost a few cents per can to do in manufacturing, but multiply that by a few million and that's a lot of cheddar

[@lamontsanford7014]

It’s better for the manufacturers to have the product dry in the groove and prevent an adequate reseal. When the product hardens in the groove the chances are greater that oar will get in and dry up the contents, resulting in another sale.

[@adrianbranham2023]

👍 : )

[@_noname617]

try to find an imperfection.. you can't

[@boatrat]

Alright. All you amateur house-carpenters. See how nice some plain neutral clear finish can look, on a decent piece of wood? Yes? So FFS, would you people PLEASE stop putting heavy, dark, disgusting mud-colored stain on every exposed stick of wood in the whole bloody house? Operative word in "brightwork", should be "BRIGHT". Either let the oak, or the pine or whatever it is, look like the wood that IT ACTUALLY IS... or else just paint it. Walnut-colored Douglas Fir, is nothing but an aesthetic abomination, perpetrated by people who wouldn't be able to recognize real Walnut if I smacked them with a baseball bat made from the stuff. It's a stylistic nightmare, about on the same level as fake wood-grain vinyl paneling. (At least with the fake paneling, I don't have to mourn the debasement of actual nice lumber!) Stop taking your decor/color advise from the people trying to sell you more of their crappy pointless wood stain product.

[@RossWilliamsDC]

Our yellow pine floors were just that, an anemic sickly yellow. We refinished them using a dark walnut stain and they look fantastic. We had never had anyone say anything about them before. Now everyone that comes to the house comments on how great they look. A dramatic improvement. There are always exceptions to every rule.

[@JohnDaker_singer]

Jeez. Tell us how you really feel.

[@buckhorncortez]

Apparently, you don't have enough imagination to figure out the best way to finish the wood in its application. Rather than thinking about the best aesthetic effect, you take the easy way out and simply slop clear finish on it while self-righteously ranting about anyone else who dares to think past that simplistic approach. There are times when a clear finish on raw wood is the best aesthetic solution, but the one-size-fits-all approach you seem to be advocating is not the solution for all woods in every situation. How about parking your sanctimoneous attitude and give other people the freedom to do what they want with the wood that they've spent their money on?

[@bulldozer7656]

Agreed, let wood be wood, otherwise paint it.

[@chetthejet3896]

Yeah Like Bob Ross said In your own little world. You can do what you want. ;-)